JPS6215654B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a latent curled yarn of a low temporary curled yarn made of polyester filament yarn,
The present invention relates to a new special crimped yarn that exhibits a silky texture, luster, or a scratch-like surface effect. Conventionally, as an application development technology of the twist alignment type temporary twist method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-9815,
A low-temporary twisted yarn created under special conditions using the twisting method has been proposed as a new curled yarn that exhibits a silky texture and luster. A crimped yarn has been proposed that is obtained by processing under special conditions in which the number of temporary twists, heat setting temperature, and heat setting time are extremely small or lower than the set values normally used in the production of Woolly yarn. It's here. The characteristic of this crimped processed yarn is that when it is applied to fabric, it can obtain a texture, luster, and yarn surface quality that is intermediate between raw silk (namite) and so-called improved stretchable yarn, or reheat-set yarn. This product has been developed as a silky-like material because of its capabilities. However, this yarn was only in the category of ``intermediate'' characteristics, and was no more than a normal quality Ken curly yarn that lacked the individuality and characteristics of the product. moreover,
In terms of quality, this yarn also had inherent problems such as wrinkles, slimy feel, lack of drapability, and moiré. In recent years, there has been a remarkable diversification and increase in the quality of clothing materials, and the demand for superior quality has increased, and the conventional yarns mentioned above are facing the need to improve their quality. It was the current situation. The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned problems, and is intended to improve the quality of the above-mentioned problems, and also to provide a completely new surface effect and a new style accompanying this. The purpose of this invention is to provide a special curled yarn that can impart texture to products. This purpose is to provide a low-temporary twist and shrinkage yarn made of polyester filament yarn, which has a residual torque twist increase rate of 100% or more after heat treatment and a stretch recovery rate of 7% or less, so that shrinkage is virtually latent. This can be achieved by using a special silky-like curled yarn that is characterized by however,

[Table] Increase rate Number of residual torque twists before heat treatment Heat treatment conditions: boiling water 98℃ x 20 minutes, processing load 4 mg, number of residual torque twists: Take yarn (test length 1m),
A processing load (4 mg) is suspended in the center, and the number of rotations of the load when both yarn ends are brought together in the center, the unit is T/50cm. It is. To explain the constituent elements of the present invention in detail, first of all, from the appearance of the yarn, the crimp form is not as pronounced as in the improved elastic yarn, but it has a slight bulkiness. Rather, it is raw silk-like, has low temporary twist residual torque, and has excellent gloss, forming a silky-like surface at first glance. The polyester synthetic fiber used in the present invention can be applied in any variety, from ultra-fine denier to medium denier to thick denier, or yarns with irregular cross sections or glossy yarns, but it is preferable to use glossy yarns with fine denier and irregular cross sections. This is the preferred method of use that can maximize the effects of the present invention. Regarding yarn properties, a high residual torque twist increase rate of 100% or more as defined above means that the torque development force after relaxing heat treatment becomes large, so for example, in a loose structure such as a knitted fabric, it is difficult to form the knitted fabric. The torque elasticity of each loop becomes stronger, and as a result, the knitted fabric becomes more resilient and smooth, and the texture is improved from the conventional wrinkles, sliminess, and drapability. Alternatively, torque unevenness in the longitudinal direction of the yarn is alleviated, leading to a reduction in moiré, which can have a significant effect on the product. According to the findings of the present inventors, the residual torque twist increase rate that realizes effective torque development after this relaxing heat treatment is 20D~20D to achieve the intended purpose of the present invention.
A thin item of 75D (D is the total denier of the thread) is approximately
A value of 100% or more is required, and anything less than this is completely undesirable.Incidentally, with conventional products, this value is
Less than 100%. Therefore, the present invention is particularly applicable to 20~
The effect is remarkable with 75D fine thread. This large rate of increase in the number of residual torque twists is largely related to the cooling time among the factors in the twist matching type temporary twisting process, and the shorter the cooling time, the higher the rate of increase in the number of residual torque twists. However, it is also characterized by having little relationship with other temporary twist numbers and heat setting temperatures, and this point is an important point in the manufacturing method when obtaining the yarn of the present invention. Next, the special curled yarn made of the polyester synthetic fiber filament of the present invention has an elastic recovery rate of 7%.
It exhibits the following values, and the expansion/contraction recovery rate is 7.
% or less, it goes without saying that problems such as the looseness, roughness, and lack of drapability that are characteristic of ordinary curly yarns can be solved, but the curliness tends to become latent. This exhibits a great effect in promoting only the development of residual torque in the relaxation heat treatment in the post-processing process applied to the fabric. In other words, when the stretch recovery rate is greater than about 7%, the crimp property tends to become apparent, and the development of residual torque in the fabric is suppressed by the crimp, so that the silky-like characteristics that are the effect of the present invention are They are not fully utilized. Therefore, it is necessary to make the yarn characteristics of the special curled yarn of the present invention such that the curling becomes latent. Taking knitted fabrics as an example of the characteristics of the fabric using the special curled yarn of the present invention, first of all, it is a latent curled yarn that has not undergone much temporary twist deformation and has a luster similar to raw silk, but it has loops. It is noticeable that the appearance of these colors is large, so it has a calm and deep feel rather than a sparkling luster. As mentioned above, the rate of occurrence of residual torque is large, but the cooling time during temporary twisting is particularly short, and furthermore, in the case of twist-matching temporary twisting, S or Z torque exists at short pitches in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. This creates a tendency for fine wavy scratch-like crimps to remain, resulting in a noticeable scratch-like surface effect that cannot be achieved with conventional yarns, and creates a raw silk-like strong cotton yarn texture with smooth fine crimps. It exhibits the following. The special curled yarn of the present invention is effectively applied to thin materials for clothing, and is particularly suitable for high-quality knitted products for women. Furthermore, as an example of application, it is possible to obtain special curled yarn of any material or type, making it extremely versatile. To explain one example of the method for obtaining the special curled yarn of the present invention, filament yarns of polyester synthetic fibers are subjected to twisting type temporary twisting processing, and the temporary twisting heat setting time is 0.03 to 0.2 seconds. number
It can be effectively manufactured by specifically limiting the range of conditions to 17000/√ or less and the cooling time to 0.03 seconds or less. Hereinafter, the features of the special curly yarn of the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples. Examples Four types of special curled yarns were obtained using the twisting type temporary twisting mechanism described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-9815. Table 1 shows the details of the manufacturing conditions and a comparative evaluation of the thus obtained yarn of the present invention and the conventional yarn.

[Table] In Table 1, the knitted fabric structure is 30D and 40G.
Interlock, 50D has 32G interlock, and both are dyed finished products. The expansion/contraction rate is
The knitted fabric properties were evaluated by sensory evaluation according to the JIS method. As shown in Table 1 above, the products using the special curled yarn of the present invention are superior in terms of gloss, texture, appearance, etc. compared to products using conventional yarn.
In particular, the remarkable shaving effect was an excellent characteristic that could never be seen in conventional thread-based products. The special curled yarn of the present invention was novel and most suitable as a material for women's high-quality knit products.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A fiber with low temporary twist and shrinkage made of polyester synthetic fiber filament yarn, which has a residual torque twist increase rate of 100% or more and a stretch recovery rate of 7% or less after heat treatment. A special silky-like curly yarn that is essentially latent. However, [Table] Up rate Number of residual torque twists before heat treatment

Heat treatment conditions: Boiling water 98℃ x 20 minutes, treatment load 4mg. Residual torque twist count: Take a piece of thread (trial length 1m),
A processing load (4 mg) is suspended in the center, and the number of rotations of the load when both yarn ends are brought together in the center, the unit is T/50cm. 2. The silky-like special curled yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that the denier of the yarn is 20D or more and 75D or less.