JPS62149943A - Leather like fiber structure - Google Patents

Leather like fiber structure

Info

Publication number
JPS62149943A
JPS62149943A JP61298159A JP29815986A JPS62149943A JP S62149943 A JPS62149943 A JP S62149943A JP 61298159 A JP61298159 A JP 61298159A JP 29815986 A JP29815986 A JP 29815986A JP S62149943 A JPS62149943 A JP S62149943A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
base fabric
yarn
fabric
shrinkage
unevenness
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP61298159A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
松井 雅男
岡本 種男
長川 孝夫
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kanebo Ltd
Original Assignee
Kanebo Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from JP57009704A external-priority patent/JPS58136855A/en
Application filed by Kanebo Ltd filed Critical Kanebo Ltd
Priority to JP61298159A priority Critical patent/JPS62149943A/en
Publication of JPS62149943A publication Critical patent/JPS62149943A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。
(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 (産業上の利用分野) 本発明は毛皮様繊維構造物に関する。[Detailed description of the invention] (Industrial application field) The present invention relates to fur-like fibrous structures.

(従来の技術) 人工的な毛皮を製造する試みは古くから試みられている
が、基布に恒久的な凹凸を与えて立毛の起立状態を変化
せしめた毛皮様製品はなく、いまだ単純な外観のものし
か製造されていない。
(Prior art) Attempts to manufacture artificial fur have been made for a long time, but there have been no fur-like products that change the upright state of the raised fur by adding permanent irregularities to the base fabric, and so far, fur-like products have only a simple appearance. Only the ones manufactured are manufactured.

(発明が解決しようとする問題点) 本発明の目的は、高度且つ複雑で変化に富む外観を有す
る新規な毛皮様の製品を提案するにある。
(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The object of the present invention is to propose a new fur-like product with a sophisticated, complex and varied appearance.

(問題点を解決するための手段) すなわち本発明は、長さ7 mm以上の立毛及び基布か
らなる繊維構造物において、該基布が恒久的な波状の凹
凸に富む部分と平坦な部分とを有することを特徴とする
立毛の起立状態が変化に富む毛皮様mIm構造物である
(Means for Solving the Problems) That is, the present invention provides a fiber structure consisting of a nape and a base fabric having a length of 7 mm or more, in which the base fabric has a permanent wavy uneven part and a flat part. It is a fur-like mIm structure characterized by having a variety of erected piloerection states.

第1図は通常の立毛製品の例を示す説明図(断面図)で
ある。(I)、は立毛(カットパイル)であり、(2)
は基布である。立毛は1皿又は2種以上の天然繊維及び
人造繊維が用いられ、基布は織物、編物、不織布その他
類似のシート状物からなる。基布はポリウレタン又はゴ
ムなどのような弾性を有する樹脂や弾性を有しない樹脂
を含有していることもあり、含有しない場合もある。
FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram (cross-sectional view) showing an example of a normal napped product. (I) is standing pile (cut pile), and (2)
is the base fabric. One or more kinds of natural fibers and artificial fibers are used for the nap, and the base fabric is made of a woven fabric, knitted fabric, nonwoven fabric, or similar sheet-like material. The base fabric may or may not contain an elastic resin such as polyurethane or rubber, or a non-elastic resin.

第1図に示す通常の立毛製品は極めて均整であるが、そ
のために単純な外観となり複雑高度な製品には適さない
ことが多い。第2図は本発明の構造物(製品)の例を示
す説明図であり、基布(2)が波状の凹凸を有する。図
において凸部を(4)で示し四部をの)で示す(勿論凸
部と凹部は相対的なものである)。第1図のような均整
で変化の乏しい立毛製品を、基布に波状の歪み(凹凸)
を与えることにより、変化に富むものとすることができ
る。
Although the normal napped product shown in Figure 1 is extremely symmetrical, this results in a simple appearance that is often unsuitable for highly complex products. FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing an example of the structure (product) of the present invention, in which the base fabric (2) has wavy irregularities. In the figure, the convex part is indicated by (4), and the fourth part is indicated by () (of course, the convex part and the concave part are relative). A napped product with a uniform shape and little change as shown in Figure 1 has a wavy distortion (unevenness) in the base fabric.
It is possible to make it more varied by giving

第1図のような立毛が直立したものの基布に歪みを与え
ることにより、凸部(4)においては立毛が放射状に散
開し、凹部ω)においては逆の放射状に密集し、外観に
大きな変化を与え、審美的、意匠的に大きな効果を発揮
する。勿論、第1図及び第2図に示したような立毛が基
布に対して直立する場合だけでなく立毛が基布に村して
一定の角度で均整に傾斜している場合も、基布に歪みを
与えることによって立毛の散開部分と密集部分を外観に
大きな変化を与えることが出来る。
As shown in Figure 1, by distorting the base fabric with upright naps, the naps spread out radially in the convex part (4), and condense in the opposite radial pattern in the concave part ω), resulting in a major change in appearance. It gives a great aesthetic and design effect. Of course, not only when the napped hair stands upright with respect to the base fabric as shown in Figs. By applying distortion to the area, it is possible to make a large change in the appearance of the scattered and dense areas of the piloerection.

基布の波状の歪み(凹凸)は、規則正しい幾何学的なも
のでもよく、不規則なものでもよい。第8図〜第6図は
基布の波状の凹凸の具体例を示す斜視図であり、図にお
いて立毛は省略されている。
The wavy distortion (unevenness) of the base fabric may be regular geometric or irregular. FIGS. 8 to 6 are perspective views showing specific examples of wavy unevenness of the base fabric, and the raised naps are omitted in the figures.

第8図はX方向には正弦波様の波を有するがy方向には
波をもたない例で、このようなものを1方向性の波と云
う。第4図はX方向にもy方向にも波状に変化する例で
、2方向性の波の例である。
FIG. 8 shows an example in which there is a sine wave-like wave in the X direction but no wave in the Y direction, and such a wave is called a unidirectional wave. FIG. 4 shows an example of a wave that changes in both the X direction and the Y direction, and is an example of a bidirectional wave.

勿論2方向性の波及び一方向性の波共に規則正しいもの
及び不規則なもの共有用であるが、不規則なものは自然
な外観を与えるので、より好ましいことが多い。第4図
は凸部(4)及び平坦部(Qからなる例である。このよ
うな場合、立毛は凸部(4)において散開し、平坦部(
C)から凸部(4)へ移行する部分(凸部の周辺部で、
凹部とみなすことができる。
Of course, both bidirectional and unidirectional waves have common uses in regular and irregular waves, but irregular waves are often preferred as they give a natural appearance. Fig. 4 shows an example consisting of a convex part (4) and a flat part (Q. In such a case, the raised hairs are spread out at the convex part (4) and are separated from the flat part (Q).
The part transitioning from C) to the convex part (4) (at the periphery of the convex part,
It can be considered as a recess.

においで密集させることができる。Can be concentrated in scent.

第5図は不規則に凹凸する部分(A、B)と平坦部(Q
とが一方向の縞状に配置された例である。
Figure 5 shows irregularly uneven parts (A, B) and flat parts (Q).
This is an example in which the lines are arranged in stripes in one direction.

凹凸部(4)、(腸の1部は凸部(4)を形成し、1部
は凹部(6)を形成している。同様に、平坦部と凹凸部
を格子縞状に配置したものも有用である。第6図は凹凸
部(4)、(6)が2次元的に配置された例である。
Concave and convex portions (4), (one part of the intestine forms a convex part (4) and one part forms a concave part (6).Similarly, flat parts and concave parts are arranged in a checkered pattern. This is useful. Fig. 6 shows an example in which the uneven parts (4) and (6) are arranged two-dimensionally.

第4図〜第6図と同様に、基布が平坦部(Qと種々の形
で配置された四部(6)とからなるものも有用である。
Similar to FIGS. 4 to 6, it is also useful that the base fabric consists of a flat part (Q) and four parts (6) arranged in various shapes.

その場合立毛は凹部において密集し、平坦部から凹部へ
移行する部分(凹部の周辺部で、凸部とみなすことがで
きる)において散開させることが出来る。
In this case, the raised hairs can be concentrated in the recessed portions and spread out in the transition area from the flat portion to the recessed portion (the periphery of the recessed portion, which can be regarded as a convex portion).

基布の波状の凹凸は恒久的でなければならない。The undulations of the base fabric must be permanent.

すなわち外力を加えない状態ではその凹凸を常に保持し
なくてはならない。このような凹凸は、基布を構成する
繊維や樹脂の熱可塑性を利用して与えることも出来る。
In other words, the unevenness must be maintained at all times when no external force is applied. Such unevenness can also be provided by utilizing the thermoplastic properties of the fibers and resin that constitute the base fabric.

しかし単に熱可塑性を利用しただけでは一般にその変形
(凹凸)の持続力は低い。より恒久性の優れた製品は、
基布を構成する繊維を不均一に収縮又は/及び膨潤させ
て、その長さに差を生ぜしめることによって得るξとが
出来る。このようにして得られる基布の歪み(凹凸)は
極めて安定であり、恒久性に優れ最も好ましい。
However, simply utilizing thermoplasticity generally has a low ability to sustain deformation (unevenness). A more durable product is
ξ can be obtained by non-uniformly shrinking and/or swelling the fibers constituting the base fabric to create differences in their lengths. The distortion (unevenness) of the base fabric obtained in this manner is extremely stable and is most preferable since it is excellent in permanence.

基布の凹凸が外観に与える効果は、前記した立毛の散開
、密集の効果の他に、立毛の高低の波を生じさせ′るこ
とである。第8図は基布の細かな凹凸によって立毛に細
かな高低の波を生じさせた例の模式図である。このよう
にして長さの異なる立毛から構成されているかのような
複雑な外観及び柔らかい触感を与えることが出来る。更
にこの効果は立毛を立体的に着色することによって一層
顕著となる。第9区は立毛に高低の波を生じせしめた後
立体染色した製品の例を示す模式図で、図において立毛
(1)は着色状態を示すために実際よりも太く描かれて
いる。
The effect that the unevenness of the base fabric has on the appearance is that, in addition to the above-mentioned effect of spreading out and condensing the naps, it also creates waves in the height of the naps. FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram of an example in which fine waves of height are produced in the nap due to the fine irregularities of the base fabric. In this way, it is possible to provide a complex appearance and soft feel as if it were made up of naps of different lengths. Furthermore, this effect becomes even more remarkable when the raised hair is colored three-dimensionally. Section 9 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a product that is three-dimensionally dyed after creating high and low waves in the raised hair. In the figure, the raised hair (1) is drawn thicker than it actually is to show the colored state.

基布の凹凸により直立した立毛の高さを波状に変化させ
た状態で、例えば遠心力によって界面を形成した染色液
又脱色液の界面を図のPQ面の位置に保持して染色又は
脱色すれば、立毛はPQ面の上下で異なる色彩すなわち
立体彩色をほどこされる。第10図はPQ面より上部が
淡色で、下部が間色の例である。すなわち凸部(4)の
立毛は先端が淡く、凹部の)の立毛は先端が濃い。この
ようにして凹部と凸部の立毛の色彩に立体的(上下方向
)且つ平面的な横方向の変化を与えることが出来る。
Dyeing or bleaching is carried out by holding the interface of the dyeing solution or bleaching solution, which has formed an interface by centrifugal force, at the position of the PQ plane in the figure, with the height of the upright naps changing in a wavy manner due to the unevenness of the base fabric. For example, the piloerection is given different colors, that is, three-dimensional coloring, on the upper and lower sides of the PQ surface. FIG. 10 is an example in which the upper part of the PQ plane is light colored and the lower part is a medium colored one. That is, the raised hairs on the convex portion (4) have a light tip, and the raised hair on the concave portion () has a dark tip. In this way, it is possible to give three-dimensional (vertical) and two-dimensional lateral changes to the color of the raised hair on the concave and convex portions.

勿論立毛先端部のみを染色して第9図と逆の関係の変化
を与えることも出来るし、又染色液又は脱色液の界面を
移動させてぼかし彩色とすることも出来る。基布を波状
に保持して立毛製品の立体的彩色を行なう方法、効果に
ついて、本発明者等はすでに特願昭56−4725号(
特開昭57−117648号公報)に詳細に記したので
省略する。
Of course, it is also possible to dye only the tip of the nap to give a change in the opposite relationship to that shown in FIG. 9, or it is also possible to create a blurred coloring by moving the interface between the dyeing solution or the decolorizing solution. The present inventors have already disclosed a method and effect of three-dimensionally coloring a napped product by holding the base fabric in a wavy manner in Japanese Patent Application No. 56-4725 (
It is described in detail in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 117648/1982), so a detailed description thereof will be omitted.

基布の凹凸によって、立毛製品の外観及び触感に複雑な
変化を与えるためには、その波長の凹凸の波長及び振巾
を適切に選ぶ必要がある。第10図は波長及び振巾の好
適な範囲を示すものである。
In order to give complex changes to the appearance and feel of a napped product by the unevenness of the base fabric, it is necessary to appropriately select the wavelength and amplitude of the unevenness. FIG. 10 shows preferred ranges of wavelength and amplitude.

点10.11,12.1B、14,15.16.17゜
18で示される多角形は一般的に好適な範囲、す領域を
示す。点20,21,22,28,24.25で示され
る多角形は特によく利用される範囲、すなわち波長1.
5〜200 mm N振巾0.7〜50 mmの領域を
示し、点80.81.82.8B、84.85で示され
る多角形は最もよく利用される範囲すなわち波長2〜1
00 mm s振巾1〜20mmの領域を示す。
The polygon indicated by points 10.11, 12.1B, 14, 15.16.17°18 indicates a generally preferred range. The polygon shown by the points 20, 21, 22, 28, 24.25 covers a particularly commonly used range, namely wavelengths 1.
5 to 200 mm N amplitude 0.7 to 50 mm, and the polygons indicated by points 80, 81, 82, 8B, and 84.85 correspond to the most commonly used range, i.e. wavelength 2 to 1
00 mm s Indicates an area with a width of 1 to 20 mm.

一般に波長7mm未満のものは、微細な波であり、前記
のような長さが異なる複数の立毛が混在するかのような
外観及び柔らかい触感を与えるが、更に高い立毛の先端
のみを白色又は淡色とすることにより霜降り状の優れた
効果が得られる。勿論突出した先端を逆に濃色に他の部
分を淡色にした場合も、異種の霜降り効果が得られる。
In general, wavelengths of less than 7 mm are minute waves, giving an appearance and soft feel as if multiple erect hairs of different lengths were mixed together as described above, but in addition, only the tips of the taller erect hairs are white or pale colored. By doing so, an excellent marbling effect can be obtained. Of course, a different type of marbling effect can also be obtained if the protruding tip is dark colored and the other parts are light colored.

波長7〜20 mmの領域は、表面に小さい波状の変化
を与えるもの(小柄)であり、20mmを越える領域は
大きな波状の変化(大柄)を与えるものである。前記立
毛の散開、密集の効果は波長7mm以上、特に20mm
以上で顕著となる。
A region with a wavelength of 7 to 20 mm gives a small wave-like change to the surface (small pattern), and a region exceeding 20 mm gives a large wave-like change (large pattern). The effect of spreading and condensing the piloerection is observed at wavelengths of 7 mm or more, especially at 20 mm.
The above becomes noticeable.

基布の凹凸の波長及び振巾はそれが正弦波の場合止環に
数学的に定められるが、不規則な波の場合もそれに準じ
る。すなわち基布を水平面上に置き、隣り合った凸部と
凹部の夫々の中心間の水平距離を波長とし、出直方向の
最大距離(最高点と最低点の重置距離)の1/2を振巾
とする。勿論波長及び振巾は一定とは限らず、多くの場
合分布する、例えば第8図ではX方向には正弦波的であ
るがy方向には波がなく振巾0又は波長〜とみなされる
。第4図の例ではX方向には比較的波長が短かいが、y
方向には比較的長い波長のものと短かい波長のものが混
在している。
The wavelength and amplitude of the unevenness of the base cloth are determined mathematically in the case of a sinusoidal wave, and the same applies to the case of an irregular wave. In other words, the base fabric is placed on a horizontal plane, the horizontal distance between the centers of adjacent convex portions and concave portions is taken as the wavelength, and 1/2 of the maximum distance in the vertical direction (overlapping distance between the highest and lowest points) is Make it wide. Of course, the wavelength and amplitude are not necessarily constant, but are distributed in many cases. For example, in FIG. 8, there is a sinusoidal wave in the X direction, but there is no wave in the Y direction, and the amplitude is considered to be 0 or the wavelength. In the example in Figure 4, the wavelength is relatively short in the X direction, but the y
There is a mixture of relatively long and short wavelengths in the directions.

勿論、本発明の構造物の基布の凹凸の波長及び振巾は、
すべてが第10図に示される範囲内に限定されるもので
はない。しかし、種々分布する波長や振巾を有する製品
において、第10図に示すような好適な範囲に属する波
状の凹凸が少なくとも1部、好ましくは80俤程度以上
、最も好ましくは60%程度以上存在することが望まれ
る。
Of course, the wavelength and amplitude of the unevenness of the base fabric of the structure of the present invention are
All are not limited to the range shown in FIG. However, in products that have various wavelengths and amplitudes, at least a portion of the product has wavy irregularities that fall within a suitable range as shown in Figure 10, preferably about 80 degrees or more, and most preferably about 60% or more. It is hoped that

基布の波状の凹凸が外観に与える効果は、立毛があまり
短かいものや長すぎるものでは少ない。
The wavy unevenness of the base fabric has little effect on the appearance if the naps are too short or too long.

すなわちその効果はカットパイルの長さが7mm以上、
特に10mm以上で顕著となり、15〜70mmで最も
強い。勿論、本発明の構造物は、複数種の立毛からなる
ものをも包含しており、立毛の1部が上記範囲外の長さ
であってもよい。例えば、細く、短かい多数の綿毛と、
太く長い比較的少数の刺毛とからなるような製品で、刺
毛が上記範囲で、綿毛は7mm未満であってもよい。
In other words, the effect is that the length of the cut pile is 7 mm or more,
It becomes especially noticeable at a length of 10 mm or more, and is strongest at a length of 15 to 70 mm. Of course, the structure of the present invention includes a structure made of multiple types of raised hair, and some of the raised hair may have a length outside the above range. For example, a large number of thin and short fluff,
A product consisting of a relatively small number of thick and long prickly bristles, the prickly bristles may be within the above range, and the fluff may be less than 7 mm.

本発明の構造物が持ち得る独特の表面効果は、立毛が長
さ方向で(先端、中間部、根元部などの間で)外観、例
えば色彩、太さ、巻縮などが変化するものであるときは
、特に顕著且つ効果的である。例えば、散開部分では立
毛の中央部や根元部が見え、密集部は先端しか見えない
からである。
The unique surface effect that the structure of the present invention can have is that the appearance of the raised hair changes along its length (between the tip, middle, root, etc.), such as color, thickness, curling, etc. It is particularly noticeable and effective. For example, in the spread part, the center and root part of the piloerection can be seen, whereas in the dense part, only the tip can be seen.

立毛を長さ方向に色彩、太さ、又は巻縮を変化させる方
法については、本発明者等はすでに特開昭56−154
86号にて開示した。また長さ方向に色彩又は形が異な
る立毛製品の例については、本発明者の提案、特開昭5
6−87884号、同56−49048号及び特願昭5
6−4725号(特開昭57−117648号公報)、
間開66−8818号(特開昭57−121648号公
報)に詳細に記したので、ここでは省略する。同様に、
立毛の散開時と密集時の外観の変化は、綿毛、刺毛の2
重構造の製品においても効果的であり、特に綿毛と刺毛
(特に綿毛よりも長い部分)との色彩が異なる場合にそ
の効果が顕著である。
Regarding the method of changing the color, thickness, or curling of the raised hair in the length direction, the present inventors have already disclosed a method for changing the color, thickness, or crimp in the length direction
Disclosed in No. 86. In addition, regarding an example of a napped product with different colors or shapes in the length direction, the present inventor's proposal, JP-A No. 5
No. 6-87884, No. 56-49048 and patent application 1977
No. 6-4725 (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 57-117648),
Since it is described in detail in Makai No. 66-8818 (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 57-121648), it will be omitted here. Similarly,
The change in appearance when the erect hair is scattered and when it is concentrated is due to two types: fluff and stinging hair.
It is also effective for products with a heavy structure, and the effect is particularly noticeable when the fluff and the prickly hair (particularly the part longer than the fluff) have different colors.

次に本発明の構造物の製造法について述べる。Next, a method for manufacturing the structure of the present invention will be described.

本発明の構造物は基布を構成する繊維を不均一に収縮又
は/及び膨潤させて容易に製造することが出来る。例え
ば、経糸に高収縮性及び低収縮性の2aの糸を用い、緯
糸には均一な収縮性のものを用いてパイル織物を製造し
、必要に応じ立毛を直立又は斜立させるような加工を行
なった後、基布を収縮せしめて第5図のような凹凸を基
布に与えることが出来る。すなわち、平坦部(Qを構成
する経糸は高収縮性のものを用い、四部又は/及び凸部
を構成する経糸は低収縮性のものを用いる駅である。同
様に織物の緯糸に収縮性の異なる2関の糸を用いて第5
図のようなものを得ることも出来、更に編物(経編、横
編、丸編など)にも同様な方法を応用出来ることは明ら
かであろう。更に経糸及び緯糸の双方に夫々収縮性の異
なる複数の糸を適宜用いて例えば、平坦部と凹凸部(四
部、凸部及びその両方を含む部分を総称する)が格子縞
状に配置された製品を得ることが出来る。同様に、収縮
性の異なる複数種類の糸を更に複雑に組合せて例えばジ
ャカード編織機などで柄模様に交編又は交織することが
出来る。また、基布を構成する編織物、不織布などが均
一な繊維からなるものでも、繊維の膨潤及び/又は収縮
剤を不均一に与えて、例えばポリアミド織物にベンジル
アルコール/水/糊剤の混合物を不均一に(例えば柄模
様に)塗布して、不均一に収縮又は/及び膨潤させるこ
とが出来る。第4図や第6図のようなものを、このよう
な方法によって容易に得ることが出来る。
The structure of the present invention can be easily manufactured by non-uniformly shrinking and/or swelling the fibers constituting the base fabric. For example, a pile fabric is manufactured by using high-shrinkage and low-shrinkage 2a yarns for the warp and uniform shrinkage yarns for the weft, and processes to make the nap stand upright or diagonally as necessary. After this is done, the base fabric can be shrunk to give the base fabric irregularities as shown in FIG. In other words, the warp that makes up the flat part (Q) is of high shrinkage quality, and the warp that makes up the four parts and/or the convex part is of low shrinkage quality.Similarly, the weft of the fabric is made of shrinkage thread. 5th using two different threads
It is obvious that something like the one shown in the figure can be obtained, and that the same method can also be applied to knitted fabrics (warp knitting, flat knitting, circular knitting, etc.). Furthermore, by appropriately using a plurality of yarns each having different contractility in both the warp and weft, we can create, for example, a product in which flat parts and uneven parts (a general term for four parts, convex parts, and parts containing both) are arranged in a checkered pattern. You can get it. Similarly, a more complex combination of multiple types of yarns with different shrinkage properties can be interwoven or interwoven into a pattern using, for example, a jacquard knitting loom. Furthermore, even if the knitted fabric or non-woven fabric constituting the base fabric is made of uniform fibers, it is possible to apply a swelling and/or shrinkage agent to the fibers unevenly, such as applying a mixture of benzyl alcohol/water/sizing agent to a polyamide fabric. It can be applied non-uniformly (eg in a pattern) to cause non-uniform contraction and/or swelling. 4 and 6 can be easily obtained by such a method.

第7図は、裏面で基布と部分的に接合し、他の部分では
分離している糸(浮糸)又は總織物等を強く収縮させて
得られる構造物の例である。図において(3)は強く収
縮した糸又は編織物等であり、(4)は接合部である。
FIG. 7 shows an example of a structure obtained by strongly shrinking threads (floats) or woven fabrics that are partially joined to the base fabric on the back side and separated in other parts. In the figure, (3) is a strongly contracted yarn or knitted fabric, and (4) is a joint.

接合部(4)は、基布(2)と高収縮繊維(構造物を含
む)(3)とが接着剤で接着されたものでもよく、糸等
で縫付けられたものでもよく、又所謂浮糸のある編織物
で浮糸と地組織との結合点であってもよい。例えば緯糸
に高収縮性の糸を用いた織物を基布の裏面に縦縞状に接
着した後、織物を緯方向に収縮させることにより第7図
及び第8図に示すような波状の凹凸を基布に与えること
が出来る。空間(5)は空間のま−でもよいが、例えば
断熱材(詰わた、不織布など)を充填してもよい。
The joint portion (4) may be formed by bonding the base fabric (2) and the high shrinkage fiber (including the structure) (3) with an adhesive, or may be sewn with thread or the like, or may be a so-called In knitted fabrics with floating yarns, it may be the connection point between the floating yarns and the ground structure. For example, by adhering a fabric using highly shrinkable yarn for the weft in the form of vertical stripes to the back of the base fabric, the fabric is shrunk in the weft direction to create wavy unevenness as shown in Figures 7 and 8. Can be applied to cloth. The space (5) may be a blank space, or may be filled with a heat insulating material (stuff, non-woven fabric, etc.), for example.

云うまでもなく、収縮性又は/及び膨潤性の差によって
生じる繊維の長さの差は、充分大きなものでなくてはな
らない。すなわち得られる波状の凹凸が適切な振巾と波
長を持つに足るものでなければならない。例えば収縮率
の差によるHAMの長さの差は、5チ以上、特に7%以
上が好ましく、10−%以上が最も好ましい。実際は1
0〜70%程度のもの、特に15〜50%程度が最もよ
く利用される。
Needless to say, the difference in fiber length caused by the difference in shrinkage and/or swelling properties must be sufficiently large. In other words, the resulting wavy irregularities must have an appropriate amplitude and wavelength. For example, the difference in length of the HAM due to the difference in shrinkage rate is preferably 5 inches or more, particularly 7% or more, and most preferably 10% or more. Actually 1
A ratio of about 0 to 70%, particularly a range of about 15 to 50%, is most commonly used.

このような収縮性の差を得るには、収縮率が5−程度以
下の低収縮性、の糸、収縮率が5〜15チ程度の通常の
収縮性の糸、収縮率が15−以上の高収縮性の糸を適宜
組合せて用いればよい。一般に収縮率の大きい糸は、延
伸中又は延伸後に熱処理をしないか、弱い(低温の)熱
処理をすること、原料ポリマーに第8成分を共重合した
り混合することにより結晶性を低下させる仁となどによ
って得られることがよく知られている。又本発明者等が
特公昭5B−46981号で開示した潜在ゴム弾性を有
する複合繊維は、適切な処理により20〜901程度収
縮させることが出来る超高収縮性を持っており、本発明
構造物の製造に好適である。
In order to obtain such a difference in shrinkage, it is necessary to use a low shrinkage yarn with a shrinkage rate of about 5 inches or less, a normal shrinkage yarn with a shrinkage rate of about 5 to 15 inches, and a yarn with a shrinkage rate of about 15 inches or more. A suitable combination of highly shrinkable threads may be used. In general, yarns with a high shrinkage rate are treated without heat treatment during or after drawing, or with weak (low-temperature) heat treatment, or by copolymerizing or mixing an eighth component with the raw material polymer to reduce crystallinity. It is well known that it can be obtained by Furthermore, the composite fiber with latent rubber elasticity disclosed by the present inventors in Japanese Patent Publication No. 5B-46981 has an ultra-high shrinkage that can be shrunk by about 20 to 90 degrees by appropriate treatment, and the structure of the present invention Suitable for manufacturing.

同様に所謂弾性糸(スパンデクス)は、例えば200〜
1000%程度の切断伸度を有し且つ高い(60%以上
、特に80%以上)伸張回復率をもっているが、張力を
加えて例えば20%以上、特に80〜900%程度伸張
した状態で編織物を製造した後張力を取去ることにより
(必要に応じ更に熱処理して)例えば15%以上、特に
20%〜90%程度収縮させることが出来る。凹凸発現
後も必要に応じ張力を加え凹凸を一時的に消去すること
も出来る。このように、基布の高収縮部が弾性糸を含む
ものは、基布の凹凸を可逆的に発現及び一時的に消去し
得るという非常に大きな特色を有する。また通常の糸と
、弾性糸との中間的な挙動を示す糸、例えば「中位の弾
性」すなわち伸度50〜800%、伸張回復率50〜9
0%程度を示すセグメントエラストマー繊維も有用であ
る。
Similarly, the so-called elastic yarn (spandex) has, for example, 200~
Although it has a cutting elongation of about 1000% and a high elongation recovery rate (60% or more, especially 80% or more), it is a knitted fabric that is stretched by 20% or more, especially 80 to 900% by applying tension. By removing the tension after manufacturing (further heat treatment if necessary), it is possible to shrink by, for example, 15% or more, particularly about 20% to 90%. Even after the unevenness appears, tension can be applied as necessary to temporarily eliminate the unevenness. As described above, the base fabric in which the high shrinkage portion contains elastic yarn has a very significant feature of being able to reversibly develop and temporarily eliminate the unevenness of the base fabric. Also, yarns that exhibit intermediate behavior between normal yarns and elastic yarns, such as "medium elasticity", that is, elongation of 50 to 800% and stretch recovery rate of 50 to 9
Also useful are segmented elastomeric fibers exhibiting 0% or so.

また、分子配向された繊維を適当な膨潤剤を作用させる
ことによって、法<収縮させることが出来る。ポリアミ
ド繊維にフェノール類やベンジルアルコールを作用させ
て、高い収縮率(例えば20〜80%)で収縮させるこ
とが出来る。例えばポリエステル繊維とポリアミド繊維
とからなる構造物を水の共存下でベンジルアルコールで
処理(必要に応じ加熱)することにより、ポリエステル
繊維をほとんど収縮させないでポリアミドを強く収縮さ
せることが出来る。ポリエステル系、ポリアクリロニト
リル系の繊維についても溶剤と非溶剤とを適度に混合し
て繊維を強く収縮させる膨潤剤を得ることが可能である
Further, by applying a suitable swelling agent to the molecularly oriented fibers, it is possible to cause the fibers to shrink. Polyamide fibers can be shrunk at a high shrinkage rate (for example, 20 to 80%) by acting on phenols or benzyl alcohol. For example, by treating a structure made of polyester fibers and polyamide fibers with benzyl alcohol in the presence of water (with heating if necessary), the polyamide can be strongly shrunk while hardly shrinking the polyester fibers. For polyester-based and polyacrylonitrile-based fibers, it is also possible to obtain a swelling agent that strongly shrinks the fibers by appropriately mixing a solvent and a non-solvent.

一方、低収縮性の繊維は、強い(高温又は長時間の)熱
処理や、オーバーフィードなどによる弛緩熱処理によっ
て得ることが出来る。基布に凹凸を与える別の手段とし
ては、撚数1000〜5000回/m程度の強撚糸を用
いて編織物を作り、収縮させることや、自発巻縮性を有
する複合m維を用いて編織物を作り収縮させることなど
があげられる。これらの方法ではクレープやジョーゼッ
トのような小さ′い波長と振巾をもつ波状の凹凸、所謂
シボを有する編織物を得ることが出来、前述の霜降り効
果を得る目的などに応用可能であるが、大きな波状あ凹
凸は得ることが出来ない。
On the other hand, low-shrinkage fibers can be obtained by intense (high temperature or long-term) heat treatment or relaxation heat treatment by overfeeding or the like. Another method of giving unevenness to the base fabric is to make a knitted fabric using a strongly twisted yarn with a twist count of about 1000 to 5000 times/m and then shrink it, or to make a knitted fabric using a composite m-fiber that has spontaneous crimpability. Examples include making textiles and shrinking them. These methods can produce knitted fabrics with so-called grain, which are wavy irregularities with small wavelength and amplitude, such as crepe or georgette, and can be applied to obtain the marbling effect mentioned above. , it is not possible to obtain large wavy or uneven surfaces.

立毛を有する繊維構造物は種々の加工工程を経て仕上げ
られる。加工工程の例としては、立毛のからみをほぐす
開繊、ブラシング、立毛の均整起立、熱処理、立毛の先
端細化、染色、防汚撥水加工、制電加工、光沢加工、基
布への樹脂の含浸、立毛の起立状態に変化(斜立、乱れ
など付与、巻縮、などがあげられる。それらの諸工程を
結合する順序については種々の応用があり、目的に応じ
て配列される。上記工程耳の中に基布の不均整収縮によ
る凹凸発現工程を追加することは極めて容易であり、そ
の結合順序も自由に選択すればよい。
Fiber structures with raised naps are finished through various processing steps. Examples of processing steps include opening to loosen the tangles of the naps, brushing, leveling and raising of the naps, heat treatment, thinning of the tips of the naps, dyeing, stain and water repellent finishing, anti-static finishing, gloss finishing, and adding resin to the base fabric. impregnation, changes in the upright state of the nape (tilting, disarray, crimp, etc.) There are various applications for the order in which these steps are combined, and they are arranged depending on the purpose. It is extremely easy to add a process of creating unevenness due to asymmetric shrinkage of the base fabric to the process selvedge, and the joining order may be freely selected.

例えば仕上工程の最初に配置してもよく、最後に配置し
てもよく、中門に配置してもよい。しかしながら立毛の
散開と密集による効果を最大に発揮するには、立毛を均
整に起立(直立又は斜立)させるような処理をした後に
、基布の凹凸発現処理することが好ましい。同様に立毛
を立体的に(例えば先端と他の部分が異なる色彩になる
ように)染色又は脱色した後で、基布の凹凸発現処理す
ることが効果的である。勿論、基布の凹凸発現後、立毛
の立体染色(又は脱色)を行なうことも出来、その場合
は、別の表面効果すなわち立毛の色彩が場所によって変
る製品が得られる。
For example, it may be placed at the beginning of the finishing process, it may be placed at the end, or it may be placed at the middle gate. However, in order to maximize the effect of spreading and condensing the naps, it is preferable to perform a treatment to make the naps stand up evenly (upright or diagonally), and then perform a treatment to develop the irregularities of the base fabric. Similarly, it is effective to dye or bleach the napped hair three-dimensionally (for example, so that the tip and other parts have different colors) and then perform a treatment to develop the unevenness of the base fabric. Of course, it is also possible to carry out three-dimensional dyeing (or bleaching) of the nap after the unevenness of the base fabric has been developed, in which case a product with another surface effect, that is, a product in which the color of the nap changes depending on the location, can be obtained.

同様に、基布に波状の凹凸発現後、立毛の先端を切断(
毛刈り)したり細化して、立毛の長さや広さが場所によ
って異なる製品が得られる。
Similarly, after the base fabric has wavy irregularities, the tips of the raised naps are cut (
By shaving) or thinning the hair, a product with different lengths and widths of standing hairs can be obtained depending on the location.

立毛を有する構造物の立毛を均整に起立させるには、構
造物を回転体、例えば回転する円筒に取付け、円筒を高
速で回転させることにより立毛に遠心力を作用させる方
法がある。遠心力を作用させて立毛を直立させ熱固定す
れば、立毛を均整に直立した状態に保持することが出来
る。更に立毛を均整に斜立させるには、前述の方法で直
立させた後、回転ブラシ等に接触させ適度に立毛を傾斜
した状態で熱固定する方法がある。また立毛を乱れた状
態にするには、直立させた立毛に加熱した気体や液体を
噴射するなどの方法で乱流的な乱れを与える方法、加熱
した波状その他の多数の凹凸のある固体(板、ローラー
など)を押圧する方法などがあげられる。遠心力による
立毛の直立については本発明者等の提案、特開昭56−
15486号に詳細に記したので省略する。直立した立
毛の熱固定は、立毛に加熱した液体を接触させ次いで冷
却用の(常温又は冷却した)液体を接触させれば容易で
ある。勿論加熱/冷却は気体で行なってもよく、赤外線
照射及び放冷でもよい。また立毛の染色や毛刈、先端又
は他の部分の細化を加熱下で行なえば、同時に熱処理が
行なわれることになる。
In order to make the naps of a structure with naps stand up evenly, there is a method in which the structure is attached to a rotating body, such as a rotating cylinder, and the cylinder is rotated at high speed to apply centrifugal force to the naps. By applying centrifugal force to make the nape stand upright and heat fixing it, the nape can be maintained in an evenly erect state. Furthermore, in order to make the napped hair stand upright evenly, there is a method of making it stand upright using the method described above, and then heat-setting the napped hair in an appropriately inclined state by contacting it with a rotating brush or the like. In addition, to create a disordered state in the standing hair, methods such as injecting heated gas or liquid onto the standing hair can be used to create turbulent disturbances, and heated wavy or other uneven solids (plates, etc.) , rollers, etc.). Regarding the erecting of the hair by centrifugal force, a proposal by the present inventors, JP-A-56-
Since it is described in detail in No. 15486, it will be omitted here. Heat fixation of the upright hair is easy if the raised hair is brought into contact with a heated liquid and then with a cooling (room temperature or chilled) liquid. Of course, heating/cooling may be performed using gas, or may be performed by infrared irradiation and cooling. Furthermore, if dyeing or shearing of the raised hair or thinning of the tip or other parts is performed under heat, heat treatment will be performed at the same time.

(発明の効果) 本発明の繊維構造物は、従来の単純な立毛製品に比較し
て著しく高度且つ複雑な外観、色彩、構造を有し、意匠
的審美的用途には天然毛皮に匹敵する、或いは天然毛皮
以上に優れた性能を持ち得るものである。また天然の毛
皮は高度の立体感や外観上の変化を与えるため、複雑且
つ煩雑な縫製技術を要するが、本発明の繊維構造物は、
それ自体が高度の構造と変化に富む外観を有するため、
特別な縫製技術を要しないという利点がある。
(Effects of the Invention) The fiber structure of the present invention has a significantly more advanced and complex appearance, color, and structure than conventional simple raised products, and is comparable to natural fur in terms of design and aesthetic uses. Or it may have better performance than natural fur. In addition, natural fur provides a high degree of three-dimensionality and changes in appearance, requiring complex and complicated sewing techniques, but the fiber structure of the present invention
Because it itself has a high degree of structure and a varied appearance,
It has the advantage of not requiring special sewing techniques.

(実施例) 以下実施例によって説明する。部及びチは特記しない限
り重量比である。
(Example) Examples will be explained below. Parts and parts are weight ratios unless otherwise specified.

実施例1 ポリエチレンテレフタレート(以下PBTと記す)ホモ
ポリマーで分子1!117,000、酸化チタン微粒子
を0.8%含むものをポリマーP1とする。
Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PBT) homopolymer having a molecular weight of 1.117,000 and containing 0.8% titanium oxide fine particles is designated as polymer P1.

PET重合時に分子量500のポリエチレングリコール
(以下PEGと記す)を5%共重合した分子量17,0
00、酸化チタン含有率0.2%のものをポリマーP2
とする。PET重合時に分子量1,000のPEGを1
C1共重合した分子量17.500酸化チタン含有率1
.2%のものをポリマーP8とする。
Molecular weight 17.0 obtained by copolymerizing 5% of polyethylene glycol (hereinafter referred to as PEG) with a molecular weight of 500 during PET polymerization.
00, titanium oxide content 0.2% as polymer P2
shall be. During PET polymerization, 1 PEG with a molecular weight of 1,000 is
C1 copolymerized molecular weight 17.500 titanium oxide content 1
.. 2% is designated as polymer P8.

分子量18,000のナイロン6で酸化チタン含有率0
.8%のものをポリマーP4とする。
Nylon 6 with a molecular weight of 18,000 and titanium oxide content of 0
.. 8% is designated as polymer P4.

ポリマーP1を290℃で溶融紡糸し、1400m/m
inの速度で巻取り80’Cで8.8倍に延伸し160
℃の熱板に接触させて得た繊度50d/24f。
Polymer P1 was melt-spun at 290°C and spun at 1400 m/m.
It was wound at a speed of 1.5 in and stretched to 8.8 times at 80'C to 160
Fineness 50d/24f obtained by contacting with a hot plate at ℃.

円形断面で熱水収縮率8%のものを糸Y1とする。Thread Y1 has a circular cross section and a hot water shrinkage rate of 8%.

ポリマーP2を糸Y1とはゾ同様に溶融紡糸・延伸して
得た、繊度17d/if1長径/短径=1/2の長円形
断面で、熱水収縮率9%のものを糸Y2とする。
Thread Y2 is obtained by melt-spinning and drawing polymer P2 in the same manner as yarn Y1, and has an oval cross section with a fineness of 17d/if1 major axis/minor axis = 1/2 and a hot water shrinkage rate of 9%. .

ポリマーP8とポリマーP4とを285°Cで溶融複合
紡糸(複合比4/1 ) L、以下糸Y1と同様に延伸
熱処理して得た。断面が本発明者等が特公昭49−29
129号第20図に示したような放射状複合繊維で50
 d / 14 f 、熱水収縮1$8%のものを糸Y
8とする。
Polymer P8 and polymer P4 were melt-spun at 285°C (composite ratio 4/1) L, which was obtained by drawing heat treatment in the same manner as yarn Y1. The cross section was created by the inventors of the Japanese Patent Publication No. 49-29.
50 with radial composite fibers as shown in No. 129, Figure 20.
d/14 f, hot water shrinkage 1$8% yarn Y
8.

ポリマーP4を285℃で溶融紡糸しく紡速1200m
/min )常温で8.6倍延伸した円形断面、Sod
/12f、熱水収縮率12%のものを糸Y4とする。
Polymer P4 was melt spun at 285°C at a spinning speed of 1200 m.
/min) Circular cross section stretched 8.6 times at room temperature, Sod
/12f and a hot water shrinkage rate of 12% is designated as yarn Y4.

糸Y1を仮撚数4000T/m、温度216℃で仮撚し
、220℃の非接触ヒーターで熱処理して得た巻縮糸を
糸FYIとする。同様に糸Y4を仮撚数4000T/m
、温度180℃で仮撚し、170℃の非接触ヒーターで
熱処理して得た巻縮糸を糸FT4とする。糸Y8を糸F
Y4と同様に仮撚して得た5つのセグメント間に分割(
フィブリル化)が進行した巻縮糸をFY8とする。
Yarn Y1 was false-twisted at a false twist rate of 4000 T/m at a temperature of 216° C., and then heat-treated with a non-contact heater at 220° C., resulting in a crimped yarn obtained as yarn FYI. Similarly, yarn Y4 was twisted at a number of false twists of 4000 T/m.
The crimped yarn obtained by false twisting at a temperature of 180° C. and heat treatment with a non-contact heater at 170° C. is referred to as yarn FT4. Thread Y8 to thread F
Divide between 5 segments obtained by false twisting in the same way as Y4 (
The crimped yarn in which fibrillation has progressed is designated as FY8.

糸FYIを2本200T/mで合撚したものを低収縮糸
L81とする。糸FYIと糸FY4とを各1本、200
T/mで合撚したものを高収縮糸■S1とする。糸FY
8を4本と、糸Y2を8本とをエアシ゛゛エツト方式で
ランダムに分散させつつ混繊した後80T/mに加熱し
、収束剤としてポリアクリル酸誘導体の水溶液を付与し
乾燥したものをパイル糸PYIとする。
A low shrinkage yarn L81 is obtained by twisting two yarns FYI at 200 T/m. 1 each of thread FYI and thread FY4, 200
The yarn twisted and twisted at T/m is referred to as high shrinkage yarn ■S1. Thread FY
After randomly dispersing and mixing four yarns of Y2 and eight yarns of Y2 using an air jet method, the yarn was heated to 80 T/m, an aqueous solution of a polyacrylic acid derivative was applied as a sizing agent, and the dried product was piled. Let the thread be PYI.

PYlをパイル糸に用い、LSI及びH81を経糸に用
い、緯糸にL81を用いて、パイル長さ87mmのカッ
トパイル織物PFIを製造した。織物の経糸は、巾20
mmのLSIを用いた部分(低収縮部)と、巾80mm
のH81を用いた部分(高収縮部)とを交互になるよう
に配置した。パイル密度は70ケ所/ cm・2である
A cut pile fabric PFI with a pile length of 87 mm was produced using PYl as the pile yarn, LSI and H81 as the warp, and L81 as the weft. The warp of the fabric has a width of 20
Part using LSI of mm (low shrinkage part) and width 80mm
The parts using H81 (high shrinkage parts) were arranged alternately. The pile density is 70 places/cm・2.

PFIを本発明者等が特開昭56−15486号に開示
した方法により仕上加工した。すなわちPFIを直径1
mの内側円筒に巻付け、遠心力によって立毛を外方へ起
立(直立)させる。同時に、同軸同速で回転する内径1
.2mの外側回転円筒容器に種々の加工液を注入及び排
出して立毛に外側から接触させる。加工液の円筒状の内
側界面の位置を、液量を調節することにより制御し立毛
の任意の場所を加工し得る。
The PFI was finished by the method disclosed by the present inventors in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 15486/1986. In other words, PFI has a diameter of 1
Wrap it around the inner cylinder of M, and use centrifugal force to cause the fluff to stand outward (stand upright). At the same time, the inner diameter 1 rotates coaxially and at the same speed.
.. Various processing fluids are injected and discharged into a 2 m outer rotating cylindrical container and brought into contact with the raised fluff from the outside. By controlling the position of the cylindrical inner surface of the processing liquid by adjusting the amount of the liquid, any part of the raised fluff can be processed.

はじめに、回転速度800rpm(遠心力約50G;重
力の50倍)、95℃の11%Na0I(水溶液を立毛
の基布から5mmの位置まで満しそのま−で15分間処
理した。この処理は乱れたり、からみ合った立毛をほぐ
して直立させると共に仮撚によって5つのセグメントに
はゾ分割された糸FY8のフィブリル化を完成し、且つ
その巻縮をや1強めるものであり、これを前処理と云う
。処理後11NaOH水溶液を排出する。
First, at a rotational speed of 800 rpm (centrifugal force approximately 50 G; 50 times the gravity), 11% Na0I (aqueous solution) at 95°C was filled up to a position 5 mm from the nape base fabric and treated for 15 minutes.This treatment was turbulent. This process completes the fibrillation of yarn FY8, which has been divided into five segments by false twisting, by loosening the tangled naps and making them stand upright, and also increases the curling by a little more. After the treatment, the 11NaOH aqueous solution is discharged.

次に、95℃の16%NaOH水溶液を基布から15m
mの位置まで満し、その位置に保持して10分間処理し
てフィブリル化したFY8の変性ポリエステル!、1f
i(綿毛)の15mm以上の部分を分解除去(切断)し
た。
Next, apply a 16% NaOH aqueous solution at 95°C to 15 m from the base fabric.
FY8 modified polyester filled to the m position, held in that position and treated for 10 minutes to fibrillate! , 1f
A portion of 15 mm or more of i (fluff) was decomposed and removed (cut).

次に、L5%NaOH水溶液を1部排出し、基布から2
8mm5 80mm5 82mm188mm5 84m
mの各位置で95°Cで夫々15分間保持し、更に基布
から85mmの位置で80分間保持して、糸Y2からな
る立毛(刺毛)の先端部を7mmにわたって細化(先鋭
化)した。処理後、NaOH水溶液を排出し冷水及び温
水(40℃)を基布に至るまで各2回満して洗滌した後
排出する。
Next, drain 1 part of L5% NaOH aqueous solution and remove 2 parts from the base fabric.
8mm5 80mm5 82mm188mm5 84m
Hold at 95°C for 15 minutes at each position of m, and further hold for 80 minutes at a position 85 mm from the base fabric to thin (sharpen) the tip of the napped hair made of yarn Y2 over 7 mm. did. After the treatment, the NaOH aqueous solution is discharged, and the cloth is washed twice with cold water and warm water (40° C.) up to the base fabric, and then discharged.

次に、灰褐色の分散染料の希薄溶液(50ppm )を
基布まで満し、95℃で5分間染色し、全体を極めて薄
い灰褐色(染着量0.02%owf )に染色し、この
染色液を排出後、や−濃い(800ppm)同じ染料の
溶液を基布から17mmの位置まで満し、徐々に排出し
ながら液面を基布から85mmの位置まで15分間で移
動させ、立毛の先端を淡灰褐色(平均染着量的0.7%
owf )に染色した。
Next, the base fabric was filled with a dilute solution (50 ppm) of a gray-brown disperse dye, and dyed at 95°C for 5 minutes to dye the entire body an extremely light gray-brown (dyeing amount 0.02% owf). After draining the dyeing solution, fill a slightly darker (800 ppm) solution of the same dye to a position 17 mm from the base fabric, and gradually drain it while moving the liquid level to a position 85 mm from the base fabric for 15 minutes to remove the nap. The tip is light grayish brown (average dyeing amount 0.7%)
owf).

染色後、液を排出し、弗素樹脂系の撥水撥油加工剤(水
分散液)を基布から8mmの位置まで満し10分間その
状態を保持したのち排水し、回転速度を6Orpm(遠
心力2G)に減速し外筒を150℃に加熱した状態で8
0分間熱処理を行なった後パイル織物を取出した。
After dyeing, drain the liquid, fill with fluororesin-based water and oil repellent finishing agent (water dispersion) to a position of 8 mm from the base fabric, hold this state for 10 minutes, drain, and reduce the rotation speed to 6 Orpm (centrifugal). 8 with deceleration to 2G) and heating the outer cylinder to 150℃.
After heat treatment was performed for 0 minutes, the pile fabric was taken out.

取出したパイル織物に裏面から、ベンジルアルコール2
0チ、分散剤5%、棚材20チ、水55チからなるペー
ストを塗布し、常温で80分間放置した後、無緊張状態
で100℃の飽和蒸気で20分間処理して基布の凹凸を
発現させた後95°Cで水洗した。その後、水系ポリウ
レタン樹脂(水分散液)を裏面から噴霧法で基布に塗布
、含浸し、150°Cの熱風乾燥機中で10分間乾燥及
び熱処理を行なって、仕上げられた立毛製品ZPIを得
た。
Apply benzyl alcohol 2 to the removed pile fabric from the back side.
A paste consisting of 0.0 ml, 5% dispersant, 20 ml of shelving material, and 55 ml of water was applied, left for 80 minutes at room temperature, and then treated with saturated steam at 100°C for 20 minutes in a stress-free state to smooth out the unevenness of the base fabric. After expressing, the cells were washed with water at 95°C. After that, water-based polyurethane resin (aqueous dispersion) is applied to the base fabric from the back side by spraying method, impregnated, and dried and heat-treated for 10 minutes in a hot air dryer at 150°C to obtain the finished raised product ZPI. Ta.

ZPIの基布の高収縮部は仕上加工によって経方向に8
7%収縮し、はぼ平坦であり、低収縮部は経方向に約9
%収縮しており且つ波長1〜8cm振巾1〜Qmm:+
の複雑な波状の凹凸を多数発生し、第5図に似たもので
ある。緯方向の収縮率は8%である。ZPIの立毛は基
布の凹凸に伴なって波状に複雑に波状に起伏し且つ凹部
は立毛が密集し濃く見え、濃淡の複雑な模様を成してお
り、変化に富んだ高度の外見を有していた。
The high shrinkage part of the base fabric of ZPI is 8 in the warp direction due to the finishing process.
7% shrinkage, almost flat, and the low shrinkage area is approximately 9% in the longitudinal direction.
% shrinkage and wavelength 1-8cm amplitude 1-Qmm: +
A large number of complicated wavy irregularities are generated, and the result is similar to that shown in Fig. 5. The shrinkage rate in the latitudinal direction is 8%. ZPI's raised hair rises and falls in a complicated wavy pattern along with the irregularities of the base fabric, and the raised hair appears dense in the concave areas, forming a complex pattern of light and shade, giving it a highly varied appearance. Was.

PFIをZPIを仕上げた方法とはゾ同じ方法で、但し
各工程の結合順序を変えてZr2を得た。
Zr2 was obtained by using the same method for finishing PFI and ZPI, but changing the bonding order of each step.

すなわち、前処理、綿毛切断、刺毛の先端細化の後に基
布の凹凸発現(ベンジルアルコール処理)を行ない、以
下、立毛の立体染色、撥水撥油加工、ポリウレタン樹脂
含浸、熱処理を行なった。Zr2は、立毛の高さ及び密
集状態が波状に変化するだけでなく色彩が場所によって
異なり、立毛の高い部分(凸部)は濃くなっており、非
常に変化に富む高度の外観を有していた。
That is, after pretreatment, fluff cutting, and thinning of the tip of the prickly hair, the unevenness of the base fabric was created (benzyl alcohol treatment), followed by three-dimensional dyeing of the nape, water and oil repellent treatment, polyurethane resin impregnation, and heat treatment. . Zr2 not only changes in the height and density of the piloerection in a wavy manner, but also differs in color depending on the location, with the high piloere (convex parts) becoming darker, and has a highly variable appearance. Ta.

比較のため基布の経糸及び緯糸をすべてLSIとして得
たパイル織物を同様に仕上加工したが、外見が均一で、
上記ZPI及びZr2にくらべて外見が単純で変化に乏
しかった。
For comparison, a pile fabric in which all the warp and weft of the base fabric were LSI was finished in the same way, but the appearance was uniform;
Compared to the above ZPI and Zr2, the appearance was simpler and less varied.

実施例2 実施例1のPYlとほぼ同様にして、但しY2を15本
、FY8を2本混繊したものをPY2とする。実施例1
の低収縮糸L81を経糸に用い、緯糸にはL81を用い
た部分と高収縮糸E[81用いた部分とを種々の間隔で
交互に用いて第1表のような7種のパイル織物を製造し
た。パイル密度第1表 PF8〜FF9を実施例1のZr2とはソ同様の方法で
、但し綿毛切断、立毛の立体染色及び立毛の起立状態等
を下記のように変更して、夫々仕上げた製品ZP8〜Z
P9を得た。ここで綿毛の切断は基布から10mmの点
で行ない、基布の凹凸発現後、円筒の回転速度を60O
rpm  (遠心力200G )に変更し筐ず立毛を基
布から12mm以上の部分を分散染料によって暗灰青色
(染着率約8%owf )に染色後、ハイドロサルファ
イド(脱色剤)を含む80℃のジメチルホルムアミド/
水=90/10混合液に立毛の凸部の先端を8 mm 
、 20分間浸漬して脱色した。また、ポリウレタン樹
脂含浸後パイル織物を回転内筒に取付は回転数80゜r
pm、外筒温度120℃で80分間熱処理して立毛を回
転内筒表面に直立させて熱処理した。熱処理後、外筒を
取はずし内筒をlrpmの速度でゆっくり回転させつつ
パイル織物を回転する金属ブラシ(直径12cm、20
0rpm )に接触させつつ120℃の熱風を多数のノ
ズルから噴射しり一吹きつけ、ブラシングすると共に立
毛を斜立(水平面からの角度15〜45’)させ且つ波
状の乱れを与えて熱固定した。
Example 2 PY2 was prepared in substantially the same manner as PYl in Example 1, except that 15 fibers of Y2 and 2 fibers of FY8 were mixed. Example 1
A low shrinkage yarn L81 was used for the warp, and a portion using L81 and a portion using high shrinkage yarn E[81 were alternately used at various intervals for the weft to make seven types of pile fabrics as shown in Table 1. Manufactured. Pile Density Table 1 Products PF8 to FF9 were finished in the same manner as Zr2 in Example 1, except that the fluff cutting, the three-dimensional dyeing of the nap, the standing state of the nap, etc. were changed as shown below.Product ZP8 ~Z
Obtained P9. Here, the fluff was cut at a point 10 mm from the base fabric, and after the unevenness of the base fabric was developed, the rotation speed of the cylinder was adjusted to 60
rpm (centrifugal force 200G) and dyed the area 12mm or more from the base fabric with disperse dye to dark gray blue (dyeing rate about 8%owf), and then dyed at 80℃ containing hydrosulfide (decolorizing agent). of dimethylformamide/
Water = 90/10 mixture with the tip of the convex part of the raised hair 8 mm
, and decolorized by soaking for 20 minutes. In addition, the pile fabric is impregnated with polyurethane resin and attached to the rotating inner cylinder at a rotation speed of 80°r.
pm, and the outer cylinder temperature was 120° C. for 80 minutes to make the nap stand upright on the surface of the rotating inner cylinder. After heat treatment, remove the outer cylinder and slowly rotate the inner cylinder at a speed of 1 rpm using a metal brush (diameter 12 cm, 20 cm) that rotates the pile fabric.
0 rpm), hot air at 120° C. was sprayed from multiple nozzles, brushing was carried out, and the raised hair was made to stand diagonally (at an angle of 15 to 45' from the horizontal plane) and wave-like, and was heat-set.

得られた製品は基布のLSI使用部分が複雑に起伏し且
つ凸部の立毛の先端かはソ白色に近く脱色されて、おり
それが波状に乱れつつ斜立しており、非常に高度且複雑
で変化に富むものであった。各製品の基布の凹凸の大部
分(50%以上)の波長、振巾の分布範囲及び外観を@
2表に示す。
In the obtained product, the part of the base fabric where the LSI is used is intricately undulating, and the tips of the raised naps on the convex parts have been bleached to almost a white color, and the naps stand up diagonally in a wavy manner. It was complex and varied. The wavelength, amplitude distribution range, and appearance of most (50% or more) of the unevenness of the base fabric of each product @
It is shown in Table 2.

第2表 実施例8 水溶性ポリアミドであるポリビス(プロポキシ)エタン
アジパミドで極限粘度0.92のものと、分子fi 2
000のがリブチレンオキシドとジフェニルメタンジイ
ソシアネートを反応させ、更にブチレングリコールを反
応させて得たポリウレタン弾性体で極限粘度1.2のも
のとを溶融複合糸した。すなわち両ポリマーを別々に溶
融し、ポリウレタンを芯に、ポリアミドを鞘に複合比1
/2で複合し、210℃で紡出し500m/minで巻
取り、常温で2.6倍に延伸し、25d/8fの潜在弾
性を有する糸Y5を得た。糸Y6は無緊張下で熱水処理
するとポリアミドが溶解し、ポリウレタンが収縮して収
縮率的60%を示す。緊張下で熱水処理した場合でも、
張力を除くとほぼ同様に収縮する。延伸倍率が大きいほ
ど大きな収縮率を示し、例えば延伸倍率4倍では70%
前後の収縮率が得られる。
Table 2 Example 8 Water-soluble polyamide polybis(propoxy)ethaneadipamide with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.92 and molecule fi 2
000 is a polyurethane elastomer with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.2 obtained by reacting butylene oxide with diphenylmethane diisocyanate and further reacting with butylene glycol, and is made into a fused composite yarn. That is, both polymers are melted separately, and the composite ratio is 1 with polyurethane as the core and polyamide as the sheath.
/2 composite, spun at 210° C., wound at 500 m/min, and stretched 2.6 times at room temperature to obtain yarn Y5 having latent elasticity of 25 d/8 f. When Yarn Y6 is treated with hot water under no tension, the polyamide dissolves and the polyurethane shrinks, showing a shrinkage rate of 60%. Even when treated with hot water under tension,
When the tension is removed, it contracts in almost the same way. The higher the stretching ratio, the higher the shrinkage rate; for example, at a stretching ratio of 4 times, it is 70%.
The shrinkage rate before and after is obtained.

実施例1の糸Y1を800 T/m加熱したものを経糸
に用い、Y5.1本とFTl、1本とをaOOT/mで
合撚したものを緯糸に用いて平織物WFIを得た。この
織物は熱水処理により経糸方向に8−収縮し、緯糸方向
には29チ収縮する。
A plain woven fabric WFI was obtained by using the yarn Y1 of Example 1 heated at 800 T/m as the warp, and using one yarn Y5.1 and one yarn FTl twisted together at aOOT/m as the weft. This fabric shrinks by 8 inches in the warp direction and by 29 inches in the weft direction by hot water treatment.

実施例1の糸LSIを経糸及び緯糸に用い、実施例2の
糸PY2をパイル糸に用いて得たパイル密度70ケ所/
cm2、パイル長87mmの織物をPI’10とする。
A pile density of 70 points was obtained by using the yarn LSI of Example 1 as the warp and weft and the yarn PY2 of Example 2 as the pile yarn.
The fabric with cm2 and pile length of 87 mm is designated as PI'10.

FFl0を実施例2に準じて、但し基布の凹凸発現処理
は行なわないで仕上げたパイル織物をZPIOとする。
ZPIO is a pile fabric obtained by finishing FF10 in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the base fabric was not subjected to the unevenness treatment.

ZPIOは均一な基布を有し、やN変化が乏しい。ZF
IOの基布の裏面に経糸方向に巾10mm5巾隔80m
mでの縞°状にポリウレタン系接着剤を塗布し、前記W
FIを接着した。WFIの緯糸がZPIOの緯糸と同じ
方向になるように配置した。接着後の織物を緯糸方向に
20%収縮させつつ95°Cの熱水で処理し、150°
Cの熱風で乾燥して仕上げた製品をZPIIとする。
ZPIO has a uniform base fabric and poor N variation. ZF
On the back side of the IO base fabric, a width of 10 mm and 5 width intervals of 80 m in the warp direction.
Apply polyurethane adhesive in stripes at m, and
I glued FI. The weft of WFI was arranged in the same direction as the weft of ZPIO. After bonding, the woven fabric was treated with hot water at 95°C while shrinking by 20% in the weft direction.
The product finished by drying with hot air in step C is called ZPII.

ZPIIの基布は第8図及び第7図に類似した緯方向の
波状の凹凸を有しており、その波長は約2 cm N振
巾は約4 mmであった。その外観は起伏に富むすぐれ
たものであった。更に接着剤の塗布部分の形を変えるこ
とにより自由に起伏状態の形を変えることが出来る。
The base fabric of ZPII had wavy irregularities in the latitudinal direction similar to those shown in FIGS. 8 and 7, and the wavelength was about 2 cm and the N amplitude was about 4 mm. Its appearance was excellent and full of ups and downs. Furthermore, the shape of the undulating state can be freely changed by changing the shape of the adhesive applied area.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of drawings]

第1図は通常の立毛製品の横断面模式図であり、第2図
は本発明の繊維構造物の横断面模式図の例である。第8
図〜第6図は本発明構造物の基布の凹凸の具体例を示す
斜視図、第7図〜第9図は本発明構造物の別の例を示す
横断面模式図である。 第10図は本発明に好適な基布の波状の凹凸の波長及び
振巾の範囲を示すものである。 第1図 第2図 第7図 第8図   第9図
FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a normal napped product, and FIG. 2 is an example of a schematic cross-sectional view of the fiber structure of the present invention. 8th
6 to 6 are perspective views showing specific examples of unevenness of the base fabric of the structure of the present invention, and FIGS. 7 to 9 are schematic cross-sectional views showing other examples of the structure of the present invention. FIG. 10 shows the wavelength and amplitude range of the wavy irregularities of the base fabric suitable for the present invention. Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9

Claims (5)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] (1)長さ7mm以上の立毛及び基布からなる繊細構造
物において、該基布が恒久的な波状の凹凸に富む部分と
平坦な部分とを有することを特徴とする立毛の起立状態
が変化に富む毛皮様繊維構造物。
(1) In a delicate structure consisting of a nape and a base fabric with a length of 7 mm or more, the standing state of the nape is changed in that the base fabric has a permanently wavy uneven part and a flat part. A fur-like fiber structure rich in fur.
(2)基布の凹凸に富む部分が1方向性又は2方向性の
波状である特許請求の範囲第1項記載の構造物。
(2) The structure according to claim 1, wherein the uneven portion of the base fabric is unidirectionally or bidirectionally wavy.
(3)基布の凹凸に富む部分が少なくとも1方向に連続
又は断続している特許請求の範囲第2項記載の構造物。
(3) The structure according to claim 2, wherein the uneven portion of the base fabric is continuous or discontinuous in at least one direction.
(4)基布の凹凸に富む部分の少なくとも一部が1〜5
00mmの波長、0.5〜100mmの振巾を有する特
許請求の範囲第1項記載の構造物。
(4) At least a part of the uneven part of the base fabric is 1 to 5
The structure according to claim 1, having a wavelength of 0.00 mm and an amplitude of 0.5 to 100 mm.
(5)基布の凹凸に富む部分の立毛の少なくとも一部が
基布の凹部で密集し、凸部で散開している特許請求の範
囲第1項記載の構造物。
(5) The structure according to claim 1, wherein at least a part of the naps in the uneven portion of the base fabric are concentrated in the concave portions of the base fabric and spread out in the convex portions.
JP61298159A 1982-01-22 1986-12-15 Leather like fiber structure Pending JPS62149943A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP61298159A JPS62149943A (en) 1982-01-22 1986-12-15 Leather like fiber structure

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP57009704A JPS58136855A (en) 1982-01-22 1982-01-22 Leather-like fiber structure
JP61298159A JPS62149943A (en) 1982-01-22 1986-12-15 Leather like fiber structure

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS62149943A true JPS62149943A (en) 1987-07-03

Family

ID=26344474

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP61298159A Pending JPS62149943A (en) 1982-01-22 1986-12-15 Leather like fiber structure

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS62149943A (en)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2006218282A (en) * 2005-02-12 2006-08-24 Nordenia Deutschland Gronau Gmbh Method for production of laminate material for closures with locking, particularly for diaper closure
JP2007092184A (en) * 2005-09-27 2007-04-12 Toray Ind Inc Pile knitted or woven fabric
WO2008050822A1 (en) * 2006-10-23 2008-05-02 Kaneka Corporation Furry fabric with three-dimensional pattern

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2006218282A (en) * 2005-02-12 2006-08-24 Nordenia Deutschland Gronau Gmbh Method for production of laminate material for closures with locking, particularly for diaper closure
JP2007092184A (en) * 2005-09-27 2007-04-12 Toray Ind Inc Pile knitted or woven fabric
WO2008050822A1 (en) * 2006-10-23 2008-05-02 Kaneka Corporation Furry fabric with three-dimensional pattern

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