JPS61266636A - Production of raised fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (a) Field of Industrial Application The present invention relates to a method for producing a high-grade natural suede-like raised fabric having a deep hue or a marbled hue.

(b) Conventional technology In general, when trying to obtain a deep hue with a raised fabric using ultra-mta fibers, the smaller the single fiber fineness, the larger the surface area and the apparent dyeing. A decrease in density occurs, making it difficult to obtain a deep color.To obtain a deep hue, it is necessary to use a large amount of dye. Another solution is to add a carbon blank to at least one type of polymer that forms ultra-mm fibers, perform composite spinning, use the resulting composite fibers to make a fabric, and then further dye it to give it a deep color. (Special Publication No. 59-44416@l) etc. have been proposed.

Furthermore, as a method of obtaining a marbled-like nap product using ultrafine fibers, a method of dyeing different colors using different types of fibers has been proposed (Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 10666111/1984).

However, in each of the above methods, the method of using a large amount of dye in order to dye a raised fabric using ultrafine fibers, for example, in a deep dark color, increases the cost and reduces workability. The color fastness also decreases, and the method of spinning by adding carbon blank during polymerization has limited applications.Furthermore, the method of dyeing different colors using different types of fibers to obtain a raised fabric with marbled opening They each have their own problems, such as fine grains and brushing, which makes the marbling effect even smaller and difficult to emphasize.

(c) Problems to be Solved by the Invention The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems in the conventional method and makes it possible to easily produce a high-quality natural suede-like raised fabric having a deep hue or marbled open hue. The aim is to provide a method for achieving this goal.

(d) Means and action for solving the problems The present invention includes:
Polyethylene terephthalate fibers copolymerized with 0.8 to 1.8 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid or its metal salts are used as warp yarns, with a total fineness of 50 deniers or more and a single filament fineness of 1 to 5 deniers. A fabric whose weft is a multifilament false-twisted yarn of terephthalate fibers with a total fineness of 50 denier or more and a single filament fineness of 1 denier or less is woven, and the fabric is dyed with cationic dye O'1 and a disperse dye to create warp and weft yarns. This is a method for producing a raised fabric, which is characterized by dyeing it in a different color with a dye and then raising mainly the weft yarns.

In the present invention, the fiber used for the warp is a cationic dye obtained by spinning a polyethylene terephthalate polymer copolymerized with sulfoisophthalic acid or its metal salt in a range of 0.8 to 1.8 mol % by a conventional method. It is a dyeable polyethylene terephthalate fiber (hereinafter referred to as cationic dyeable polyester fiber). Here, the metal salt refers to an alkali metal salt such as a potassium salt or a sodium salt. If the amount of copolymerized sulfoisophthalic acid or its metal salt is less than 0.8 mol%, the cationic dye will not adhere well to the fibers, making it impossible to obtain a deep hue, and the amount of sulfoisophthalic acid or its metal salt will be poor. If the amount exceeds 1.8 mol%, high temperature dyeing (1.8 mol%)
(30°C), the strength of the fibers decreases, and when false twisting is performed, physical properties decrease due to heat. In addition, the warp has a total fineness of 50 denier or more, and a single filament fineness of 1 to 5.
The use of denier multifilament false-twisted yarn is necessary to maintain the strength of the fabric, keep the weight consistent with the texture, and prevent misalignment.

Next, as the weft, it is necessary to use a multifilament false twisted yarn made of ordinary polyethylene terephthalate fibers (hereinafter referred to as ordinary polyester fibers), which is an ultra-fine fiber with a total fineness of 50 denier or more and a single filament fineness of 1 denier or less. It is. By setting the total fineness to 50 deniers or more, it is possible to maintain sufficient strength for practical use even when napping is applied. Furthermore, by using ultrafine fibers with a single filament fineness of 1 denier or less, it is possible to obtain a high-quality natural suede-like appearance, texture, and surface touch by raising the fibers. Furthermore, by applying a false twisting process, weavability is improved.

The napping property is improved and it is possible to prevent eye misalignment.

Further, both the warp and weft may be twisted as necessary.

The number of twists should be about 100 to 600 times per square meter, especially for weft yarns! ! ! Although the weavability improves, if the number of twists is too large, there is a risk that the napping property will decrease.
Preferably 0 times/rice.

In the present invention, a woven fabric is woven using warp and weft yarns that meet the respective requirements as described above.

M machines are water jet looms and rapier looms.

An ordinary loom can be used, but it is preferable to use a water jet loom with good operating efficiency.Since the weft is false-twisted, the running yarn has good water retention when weaving with a water jet loom. Yes, there are fewer troubles when inserting the weft. The texture of the woven fabric is preferably a weft satin texture because it is necessary to mainly raise the weft yarns in the raising process.

In the present invention, the woven fabric is relaxed and refined by a conventional method, and then dyed with cationic dyes and disperse dyes in the same bath or in separate baths to give the warp and weft a deep hue or marbled toning. After each phase is dyed in a different color depending on its purpose, it is brushed. For the raising process, it is preferable to use a cloth raising machine, which mainly raises the weft yarns.

In the present invention, as described above, using cationically dyeable polyester fibers for the warp yarns and normal polyester fibers for the weft yarns achieves the purpose of the present invention by dyeing the warp yarns and the weft yarns in different colors, including the difference in dye density. This is the most important point in obtaining a raised fabric with a deep hue or marbled hue.

In the present invention, the warp is dyed darker than the weft both when obtaining a deep hue and when obtaining a marbling tone. This is because the disperse dye that normally dyes the weft yarns made of polyester fibers partially dyes the warp yarns made of cationically dyeable polyester fibers, and when the weft yarns are raised after dyeing, the warp yarns sink and become less noticeable. This is to compensate for the

When trying to obtain a deep hue, it is preferable that the warp and weft be of a similar color hue for a light-medium hue, and that the warp be of a similar color or a black hue as the weft for a dark color. In these cases, even if the warp and weft are dyed with similar colors,
The warp yarns of cationically dyeable polyester fibers dyed with cationic dyes have a vivid color, which is slightly different from the hue of the weft yarns of regular polyester fibers dyed with disperse dyes, so the overall hue of the brushed fabric does not have a flat feel and has a deep color. This results in a certain hue.

In addition, when trying to obtain a marbled toned hue, it can be easily obtained by increasing the difference in dyeing density between the warp and weft and combing the yarn, or by dyeing the yarn in a different color with a large color difference.

Also, depending on the degree of napping performed in the post-process, the marbled appearance can be varied in various ways. That is, for example, when the napping density is increased, the warp yarns are sunk by the weft fluff, so that the hue of the weft yarns is emphasized. To keep the appearance constant, adjust the width after brushing.

The raised fabric obtained by the present invention uses false twisted yarns for both the warp and weft, so it has some elongation even after raising, has a good texture, is wrinkle resistant, and has good texture when made into clothes. It is a high-grade natural suede-like brushed fabric that is extremely comfortable to wear, and has an excellent appearance, texture, and feel.

In addition, in the present invention, quality improvement treatments such as using various finishing chemicals or physically rubbing can be performed as necessary.

(E) Example A 75D/36F multifilament false-twisted cationic dyeable polyester fiber made of a polyethylene terephthalate polymer copolymerized with 1.5 mol% sodium sulfoisophthalate was used for the warp, and normal polyester fiber was used for the weft. A dual-line, 5-ply satin fabric was woven using a water jet loom using 55D/196F multifilament false-twisted yarn (number of twists: 280 twists/US). The weaving was carried out under the conditions of /4: weaving width 170 cm, gray fabric density 110 warps/inch and 178 wefts/inch, the number of stops was as low as 5 times for 150 m, and the fabric had good quality.

Next, relax the gray fabric obtained above using the usual method.

Scouring and jet dyeing were performed. Dyeing was carried out under the following conditions in order to obtain a deep dark brown color.

Dyeing recipe and conditions> Holon Yellow Bron 5-CTL Disperse dye; Sandoz Co., Ltd.) 7.5% (weight to weft) Holon Lupine 5R-CTL (Disperse dye; Sandoz Co.) 1
．． 1% (〃) Holon Dark Blue 5-CTL (Disperse dye: Sandoz Co., Ltd.) 149% (〃) Guiacryl Black RTL-PP (cationic dye;
Mitsubishi Kasei) 8.0% (w/warp weight) Nisoka Sansolt RZ-8 (level dyeing agent; Nicca Chemical) 0.5
g/It Disper TL (dispersant; Tasei Kagaku) 0.5 g/l Unitsuru i QC-12 (settling prevention agent; Tasei Kagaku) 1.
5 g/Il Acetic acid (48%) Q, 3cc/j! Bath ratio...1:15. Temperature...130℃ for 1 hour...
Listen for 30 minutes Reduction cleaning prescription and conditions> Bisnol I'-70 (-bath reducing agent: Ipposha oil and fat) 3g
// Sunmol FL (nonionic surfactant; Nicca Chemical) 1
g/l Bath ratio...l:15, temperature...80°C 1 hour...
After dyeing for 20 minutes, the fabric has a deep brown hue, especially since the warp yarns of the cationically dyeable polyester fibers are dyed black, which is combined with the dark brown color of the weft yarns dyed with disperse dyes. When viewed closely, the black of the warp threads can be seen between the brown weft threads, but when viewed from a distance, it appears to be a deep dark brown.

After dyeing, the needle cloth was raised using a hydraulic raising machine. The number of naps was 5 times on the front side and once on the back side, and the width after the nap was 157 cm after dyeing and setting was 128 ctn, and heat set to a width of 130 cm for wrinkle removal and dimensional stability.

The raised surface of the resulting fabric has the ultra-fine fibers of the weft further raised than after dyeing, so the slightly visible black of the warp and the brown raised weft of the weft create a deeper, darker brown color. It has a hue similar to that of high-quality natural suede, and has the appearance and texture of high-quality natural suede.

It had a feel.

Example 2゜Example 1. Weave a fabric that is exactly the same as the fabric woven in
Relaxation, scouring and jet dyeing were carried out using conventional methods. Dyeing was carried out under the following conditions in order to obtain a marbled gray color.

Dyeing recipe and conditions> Dianix Spru-TL-3E (disperse dye; Mitsubishi Kasei), 0.45% (to weft weight) Dianix Thread U-3B <disperse dye; Mitsubishi Kasei)
0.42% (〃) Dianic sprue U-3E (disperse dye; Mitsubishi Kasei)
0.60% (〃) Guiacryl Black RTL-
PF (cationic dye; Mitsubishi Kasei) 8.0% (weight to warp) Nifka Sun Salt RZ-80, 5g / β Disper T
L 0.5g/l Unisalt QC
-121.5g/1 acetic acid (48%) 9.3cc/J Bath ratio...1:15. Temperature...130℃ for 1 hour...
Reduction cleaning prescription and conditions to listen to for 30 minutes> Bisnor P-703g1e Sunmol FL Ig/Il bath ratio...tits, temperature...80℃ 1 hour...20
After minute dyeing, the fabric is dyed black in the warp and light gray in the weft, giving it an overall medium color.

It has a gray marbled appearance, and after dyeing, heat setting was performed to remove light lobe-like wrinkles during dyeing and to ensure dimensional stability. Light napping was performed using the same napping machine. That is, raising was performed three times on the front side and twice on the back side. The width after dyeing and setting was 157cm, which was 140CI11, and the setting after raising was carried out at 180° C. for 40 seconds with the width setting set at 142co+.

The appearance of the resulting brushed fabric is a more sophisticated gray marbled tone than before the napping, and the brushed microfibers have more diffuse reflection than before the napping, and the light gray color has become even lighter in hue. The black color of the warp yarns can be seen between the ultra-fine fibers of the weft yarns, giving it a marbled look, and the ultra-fine fibers give it a delicate feel and the false-twisted yarn gives it a soft texture.Furthermore, the napping increases the density of the ground texture. Due to the
It had a luxurious natural suede feel that was soft yet firm.

(F) Effects of the Invention In the present invention, as described above, warps made of cationically dyeable polyester fibers containing 0.8 to 1.8 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid or its metal salt as a copolymerization component, and 1 denier or less The weft yarns, which are made of regular polyester fibers with an ultra-fine fineness of In addition, it is possible to easily produce a high-grade natural suede-like raised fabric that has excellent appearance, fit, and feel and can be used for formal purposes.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) Sulfoisophthalic acid or its metal salt from 0.8 to 1
．． 8 mol% copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a total fineness of 50 denier or more, a single filament fineness of 1 or more
A fabric is woven using 5-denier multifilament false-twisted yarn as the warp and multifilament false-twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber with a total fineness of 50 denier or more and a single filament fineness of 1 denier or less as the weft, and the fabric is treated with a cationic dye. 1. A method for producing a raised fabric, which comprises dyeing the warp and weft in a unique color using a woven fabric and a disperse dye, and then raising mainly the weft.