JPS6121601B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to cosmetic bases, and more particularly to cosmetic bases comprising modified beeswax. Beeswax can be used as a cosmetic base, i.e. to improve moldability,
It is widely used in emulsion products such as cleansing creams and cold creams, stick-like products such as lipsticks, eye shadows, and sticks, and pomade products for the purpose of solidifying oil, retaining oil, and adjusting hardness. However, in the case of cosmetics containing beeswax, for example, lipsticks have sweating and powdering properties, and pigment dispersibility is poor. There are also problems with powder generation in pencil products such as eyebrow ink. Although there are various possible causes for these defects, such as sweating and dusting, the exact cause has not yet been determined, and it is believed that they are caused by a complex combination of various factors. Beeswax used as a base for cosmetics comes as a refined product made by decolorizing and deodorizing coarse wax, but these include high acid value beeswax (European type) and low acid value beeswax (Oriental type). ) There are two types. The compositions of both beeswaxes are summarized in the table below.

[Table] Of the hydrocarbons and free fatty acids that are the main components of beeswax other than wax esters, most of the hydrocarbons are C ₂₅ , C ₂₇ , C ₂₉ , and C ₃₁ linear hydrocarbons. In the case of beeswax with a high acid value, the free fatty acids include palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ), stearic acid (C ₁₈ ), behenic acid (C ₂₂ ), lignoceric acid (C ₂₄ ), and serotin. The main ones are straight chain saturated fatty acids such as acid (C ₂₆ ), montanic acid (C ₂₈ ), melisic acid (C ₃₀ ), dotriacontanoic acid (C ₃₂ ), and tetratriacontanoic acid (C ₃₄ ). Even in the case of low acid value beeswax, palmitic acid, stearic acid, melisic acid,
The main ones are straight chain saturated fatty acids such as dotriacontanoic acid and tetratriacontanoic acid. Since beeswax thus contains a considerable amount of long-chain linear compound components, it can be said that it inherently has relatively high crystallinity. The present inventors focused on this point and as a result of intensive research, they found that among the linear long-chain compound components of beeswax, the chain length of free fatty acids was increased, and at the same time, they were given a branched chain. The inventors discovered that beeswax's inherent crystallinity could be modified and completed the present invention. According to the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic base made of modified beeswax in which the free fatty acids it contains are ester-modified with an alcohol. The alcohol as ester modifying agent can be selected from linear higher saturated and unsaturated alcohols, branched higher saturated alcohols, polyhydric alcohols and sterols. Straight chain higher saturated alcohols can include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, etc., straight chain higher unsaturated alcohols can include oleyl alcohol, and branched higher saturated alcohols include 2-hexyldecanol,
Examples of the alcohol include isostearyl alcohol, 2-heptylundecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, etc., glycerin and the like can be used as the polyhydric alcohol, and cholesterol and the like can be used as the sterine. The invention will now be explained in more detail with reference to manufacturing examples. Production example 1 Add an equivalent amount of stearyl alcohol to the free fatty acid in beeswax, dissolve and mix, then add an appropriate amount of concentrated sulfuric acid, and then heat the mixture to 80-120°C for about 10-16 hours. Make them react. The resulting reaction product was washed with hot water to make it neutral. Reaction rate approx. 90
%. A comparison of the physical properties of the obtained modified beeswax and conventional unmodified beeswax is shown in Table 2. Production Example 2 Add an equivalent amount of 2-heptylundecanol to the free fatty acid in beeswax, dissolve and mix, then add an appropriate amount of concentrated sulfuric acid, and then heat the mixture to 80-120°C for about 10-10 minutes. Allow to react for 16 hours. The resulting reaction product was washed with hot water to make it neutral. Reaction rate is approximately 90%. A comparison of the physical properties of the obtained modified beeswax and conventional unmodified beeswax is shown in Table 2. Production example 3 Add an equivalent amount of glycerin to the free fatty acids in beeswax, dissolve and mix, and heat at 180 to 220℃ and 10 to 20℃.
The reaction is carried out for about 6 to 10 hours under reduced pressure of mmHg. After the reaction was completed, the reaction product was washed several times with hot water. The reaction rate is approximately 98%. A comparison of the physical properties of the obtained modified beeswax and conventional unmodified beeswax is shown in Table 2. Production example 4 Add an equivalent amount of cholesterol to the free fatty acids in beeswax, dissolve and mix, and heat at 200 to 210℃ for 10 minutes.
React under reduced pressure of ~20 mm Hg for about 6-10 hours. The reaction product is then washed several times with hot water. Reaction rate is approximately 90%. A comparison of the physical properties of the obtained modified beeswax and conventional unmodified beeswax is shown in Table 2. Production Example 5 Add an equivalent amount of oleyl alcohol to the free fatty acid in beeswax, dissolve and mix, add an appropriate amount of concentrated sulfuric acid, and then heat the mixture to 80 to 120 ° C.
Allow to react for 16 hours. The resulting reaction product is washed with hot water to make it neutral. The reaction rate is approximately 87%. A comparison of the physical properties of the obtained modified beeswax and conventional unmodified beeswax is shown in Table 2.

【table】

[Table] As judged from Table 2, the melting point of the modified beeswax according to the present invention is slightly higher than that of unmodified conventional beeswax, but when looking at the penetration value, the modified beeswax according to Production Examples 1 and 3 has a slightly higher melting point. Wax is an exception, generally showing high values and being considerably softer than unmodified beeswax. Incidentally, according to microscopic observation, the modified beeswax according to the present invention was considerably more microcrystalline than the unmodified beeswax. Incidentally, after dissolving and mixing 5 to 10% of the modified beeswax according to the present invention and the conventional unmodified beeswax in various oil-based substances and leaving them to cool at room temperature for a day and night, the luster and patterns (patterns) formed on the surface of these materials were determined. Table 3 shows the results of observations regarding sweating properties and fluidity (which are considered to be related to the capacity and syneresis phenomenon).

【table】

[Table] The following can be seen from Table 3. (a) When conventional unmodified beeswax is blended with liquid paraffin, there is some fluidity and marks occur, but in the case of the modified beeswax of the present invention, these can be corrected by removing denatured substances due to cholesterol. I can do it. (b) When conventional unmodified beeswax is blended with squalane, it becomes a fluid, but in the case of the modified product according to the present invention, only slight fluidity occurs and no sweating or markings occur. , thus improving compatibility. (c) Regarding blends with castor oil, jojoba oil, lanolin, etc., there is no major difference between the conventional unmodified product and the modified product according to the present invention, but some modification is observed in the modified product. (d) Blends of modified beeswax and oily substances according to the invention generally have increased viscosity or viscosity compared to conventional blends of unmodified beeswax and oily substances. Next, reference examples regarding lipsticks, pencil-type eyebrow ink, and o/w-type pine surge cream manufactured using modified beeswax according to the present invention or conventional unmodified beeswax as one component will be described. The modified beeswax according to the present invention used in these reference examples was that obtained in Production Example 1. Reference example 1 (a) Production of lipstick (1) The following raw materials Candelilla wax 5 (parts by weight) Carnaupa wax 2 Modified beeswax 12 Microcrystalline wax 5 Hardened palm oil (melting point 45°C) 4 Olive oil 15 Isopropyl myristate 10 Castor oil 42 was heated and melted and mixed uniformly, 5 parts by weight of coloring material (red 202) was added thereto, kneaded with a roll mill to uniformly disperse, then remelted and defoamed, and then heated in a mold at 75℃. The mixture was poured into a container and rapidly cooled at 10°C for 10 minutes to solidify, then removed from the mold and loaded into a container to produce a prototype lipstick with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of 37 mm. (2) A conventional type of lipstick was prototyped in the same manner as in item 1 above, except that the same amount of high acid value beeswax was used instead of modified beeswax. (b) Evaluation method and results (1) Sweating and blooming properties Using a temperature cycle programming tester, we set the temperature program shown in Figure 1 and set the stepwise temperature increase/decrease conditions for two cycles a day, and tested the temperature for one month. When I conducted a cross test,
It was found that lipsticks containing modified beeswax were superior to lipsticks containing conventional unmodified beeswax in both sweating and blooming properties. (2) Hardness Measured from the bottom of both prototype lipstick samples, cut horizontally at a 25mm point with a sharp razor, kept in a constant temperature oven at 25℃ for 2 hours, and then used a card meter (manufactured by Iio Electric Co., Ltd.). and diameter 3
The hardness was measured by applying a load of 800 g with a mm pressure-sensitive axis. The results are shown in Table 4, and it can be seen from the table that the hardness of lipsticks using modified beeswax is slightly lower.

[Table] (3) Bending strength Under the same conditions as described in section a above, diameter 8
A stick-shaped sample lipstick with a length of 57 mm and a length of 57 mm was prepared, and after being kept at a temperature of 25 °C for 2 hours, a semicircular pressure-sensitive shaft with a width of 5 mm and a diameter of 12 mm was brought into contact with a point 15 mm from the support point of the sample. Similar to the hardness test in Section 2, the bending strength was measured using a card meter and a load of 400 g was applied. It can be determined that products containing beeswax are slightly more expensive than products containing unmodified beeswax.

[Table] (4) Pigment dispersibility When the pigment dispersibility during kneading of materials was observed from the state of white pigment (titanium oxide) floating, it was found that using modified beeswax was better than using unmodified beeswax. was also judged to be quite excellent. Reference example 2 (a) Production of pencil-type eyebrow ink (1) The following raw materials Talc 10 (parts by weight) Kaolin 15 Pearl pigment 15 Wood wax 20 Stearic acid 10 Modified beeswax 5 Hydrogenated castor oil 5 Vaseline 4 Lanolin 3 Squaline 3 After melting, 10 parts by weight of iron oxide is added thereto, thoroughly stirred and dispersed, and kneaded several times using a heated roll mill. Then cool to room temperature,
Eyebrow ink was prototyped by centering and molding from a nozzle with an inner diameter of 4 mm using a squeeze injection machine. (2) A conventional type of eyebrow ink was prototyped in the same manner as in item 1 above, except that the same amount of high acid value beeswax was used instead of modified beeswax. (b) Evaluation method and results As in the case of the lipstick in Reference Example 1, both prototype eyebrow ink were tested for one month using a temperature programming tester and blooming was observed.
It was significantly less when using modified beeswax than when using unmodified beeswax. Reference Example 3 (a) Production of o/w type pine surge cream (1) First, 0.1 part by weight of soap powder was added to 24.7 parts by weight of purified water and heated to 80°C to form an aqueous phase. Separately, the following ingredients: Solid paraffin 5.0 (parts by weight) Modified beeswax 10.0 Vaseline 15.0 Liquid paraffin 41.0 Glycerin monostearate (self-emulsifying type) 2.0 Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolauric acid (20E.O) Mix 2.0% borax and 0.2% borax and heat to melt at 80℃ to form the lipophilic part.
Next, the aqueous phase part was added to the lipophilic part and pre-emulsified, and then further emulsified uniformly with a homomixer, and cooled while stirring to prepare a trial of pine surge cream. (2) A conventional type of pine surge cream was experimentally produced in the same manner as in item 1 above, except that the same amount of high acid value beeswax was used instead of the modified beeswax. (b) Evaluation method and results The two prototype pine surge creams were almost the same in terms of affinity to the skin, spreadability, feel, etc. Also, the pine surge cream containing modified beeswax was packaged in a bottle and stored at room temperature for one year before opening. There was no place where we observed the formation of lumps.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

The accompanying drawing is a graph showing a temperature cycle program set up for evaluation of cosmetics prototyped using modified beeswax as a base for cosmetics according to the present invention and conventional unmodified beeswax.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A cosmetic base made of modified beeswax, characterized in that the free fatty acids it contains are ester-modified with an alcohol. 2. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the alcohol is selected from linear higher saturated and unsaturated alcohols, branched higher saturated alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, and sterols. Base.