JPS605706B2 - Method for manufacturing grained fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a textured fabric using a thermoplastic synthetic fiber spun yarn obtained by a stretch-cut spinning method.

Conventionally, various methods have been proposed for producing grained fabrics using highly twisted yarns of thermoplastic synthetic fibers. The typical method is to apply strong twisting to threads made of thermoplastic synthetic fibers, treat the strong threads with steam to temporarily fix their swirling properties, and then relax them in hot water after weaving the fabric. This process strongly regenerates the temporarily fixed swirling properties, and this swirling property causes the cloth to constantly develop unevenness, so-called grain, and is then dried and set to obtain an ignited grained fabric. Textured fabrics made of thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament yarns produced by the above method are used in a wide variety of fields, but in textured fabrics made from spun yarns of thermoplastic synthetic fibers, the depth of the grains is shallow, the density of the grains is coarse, and However, it has drawbacks such as uneven appearance of the grain, and is currently hardly used.
The inventors of the present invention have made extensive studies in an attempt to improve these drawbacks, and have discovered that it is possible to obtain a good woven fabric by using a tension-cut spun yarn having a specific boiling water shrinkage rate and twist coefficient. , we have arrived at the present invention. That is, the present invention provides a textured fiber characterized in that it is woven using a thermoplastic synthetic fiber cut spun yarn having a freshwater shrinkage rate of 7% or less and a lacquer coefficient of 4.0 to 8.0, and then subjected to a texture treatment. It relates to methods of manufacturing things. As the thermoplastic synthetic fiber in the present invention,
Examples include polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, and the like. In particular, it is preferable to use polyester fibers because the effect is remarkable. The spun yarn used in the present invention is manufactured by a tension-cut spinning method, and has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 7% or less and a twist coefficient of 4.0 to 8.
Must be 0.

That is, continuous fibers made of stretched or semi-stretched thermoplastic synthetic fibers after weaving or continuous fibers made of high-speed spinning (
After cutting the tow (hereinafter referred to as tow) with a tension cutting machine such as Parlock under heating or at room temperature to make a highly uniform sliver,
If necessary, heat treatment is applied to remove residual strain in the sliver that has caused stretch-cut warps, and then it is made into a spun yarn using a general process.At this time, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the spun yarn is % or less, the temperature conditions and rate elongation in the heated drafting region of the tension cutter, as well as the heat treatment conditions of the sliver after rate cutting, are adjusted.

For example, by cutting polyester tow at room temperature, placing the tension-cut sliver in a can, and heat-treating it for 15 to 3 rounds at a temperature range of 170°C to 220°C, the boiling water shrinkage rate is 7% or less. polyester fiber spun yarn can be obtained. The reason for using the cut spun yarn here is as follows.

In other words, since the stretch-cut spun yarn is cut by drafting the toe, the degree of molecular orientation of the fibers constituting the tow improves during drafting, and the degree of crystallinity increases. The yarn has a higher Young's modulus than yarns obtained from ordinary ring-spun yarns or open-end spun yarns,
Furthermore, the twisting rigidity of the yarn is increased, and therefore the yarn has a strong scale twisting moment for the same twist.

Another effect of using tension-cut spun yarn is that the fiber length of the single fibers constituting the yarn is relatively long and its distribution is ideal, so the resulting yarn has a uniformity with less unevenness. Therefore, it is possible to reduce so-called uneven twisting, in which twist is unevenly distributed in thin portions, and a uniform grain can be obtained.

Next, the reason why the yarn has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 7% or less is as follows. In other words, the grain of a grained fabric is caused by the scale twisting moment of the yarn used, so if the binding force between the warp and weft yarns that make up the fiber is large, the yarn will have a large decombustion moment. Even if they do, they will remain in a restrained state, and Sipo's invention is not sufficient. For this reason, the binding force between the warp and striped yarns should be made as small as possible, but this requires that the contraction rate of the warp and striped yarns be as small as possible during the graining process, and the above-mentioned tension-cut spun yarn It is important to keep the boiling water shrinkage of 7% or less, preferably 5% or less. The boiling water shrinkage ratio referred to here was measured as follows. Take a skein that has been wound 10 times, hold one end, apply a cutting load equivalent to 2M group of single yarn standard initial load specified by JISLI067 to the lower end, and measure the inside length of the skein. Next, remove the first cart and put the basket at a temperature of 98 pm.
Soak in water at ±2°C for at least 10 minutes. Take it out, lightly drain the water with absorbent paper or cloth, air dry it as horizontally as possible, apply the initial smoke again, measure the length of the inside of the case, and calculate the boiling water using the following formula from the average value of 20 measurements. Calculate the shrinkage rate (%) (to one decimal place). Nada water shrinkage rate (%) =; Z' In order to achieve this, it is desirable that the fiber density be relatively low, and if expressed by the cover factor K in the warp direction or stripe direction, K = 5.
A range of 0 to 15.0 is preferable.

(However, the cover factor K mentioned in this) is K=n/ノN
Defined by n...2.54 Number of threads per arc, N...cotton type count). Next, the tension-cut spun yarn used in the method of the present invention needs to be burned so that its twist coefficient becomes 4.0 to 8.0.

In other words, there is a nearly proportional relationship between the degree of grain appearance of the fabric and the number of twists of the spun yarn constituting the fabric, and the number of twists of the spun yarn is 4.0.
If it is less than 4, the grain will be less than 4.5 cm, which is not suitable for use as a grain in a grained fabric. Furthermore, if the fuel coefficient exceeds 8.0, twisting becomes impossible because the twisting resistance of the spun yarn is exceeded. Therefore,
For a good tip, the twist coefficient should be 4.0 to 8.0.
It is necessary that (The twist coefficient here is Q=T
Defined by NonoN, Q...Twist coefficient, T...
...Number of twists between 2.54 and N...cotton type count. )) Since the yarn is given a twist number with a twist coefficient of 4.0 to 8.0, it has a stronger turning force, but in order to achieve stable weaving with this yarn, this turning The properties may be temporarily fixed; for example, yarns made of polyester fibers may be treated at a temperature in the range of 70 qo to 130 qo.

Furthermore, if sizing is applied at this time, the apparent swirlability is reduced, the weavability is improved, and a woven fabric with deeper and larger grains can be obtained. As mentioned above, by using a cut spun yarn of thermoplastic synthetic fibers with a Nada water shrinkage rate of 7% or less and a twist coefficient of 4.0 to 8.0, a large grain density can be achieved. It is possible to obtain a grained fabric with deep grains and high grain uniformity.

By using it for the warp and weft, spun, georgette, crepe and spun willow fabrics can be obtained. Furthermore, if this thread is used for the sewing threads and a false twisted thread is used for the weft threads, a fabric can be obtained in which the warp threads have a crisp feel and the weft threads have an uneven feel. Furthermore, depending on the required texture and grain form, the yarn can be used only for the striped yarn, or it can be used for the warp and striped yarns by mixing with temporary yarn or other yarns to create a textured fabric with a special texture. Something happens. Examples of the present invention are shown below.

〔Example〕

A 10,000 denier polyester tow is cut by a tension cutter at room temperature, and the resulting sliver is heat-treated at 190°C, then subjected to a spinning process to give a twist coefficient of 6.0 (flame number 1450).
T/M), strongly twisted yarn with a count of 1/64 Nm was treated with an acrylic sizing agent, and then steamed with saturated steam at 90:00 for 3 minutes to temporarily fix the twist.

A 100 denier polyester filament yarn with a warp density of 27 threads/skin is used for the warp yarn, and the above-mentioned strong twist yarn is used as the weft thread with a weft density of 20 threads/shape to form a plain weave.Then, the gray fabric is immersed in hot water at a temperature of 10 mm. It was immersed in a candle for 20 minutes to create a textured texture. As a result, the width filling ratio and degree of graining of the fabrics shrunk by graining were as shown in Table 1. 1st
For comparison, the table shows the warp as polyester filament yarn 1.
00 denier, ring-spun polyester fiber by conventional method for weft yarn twist coefficient 6.0 (1494T/M)
, woven according to the same fabric specifications using a yarn count of 1'6 Fukum, and then subjected to a seam-up treatment in the same manner) The results are also shown. Table 1 (・Sheath) The width entry rate, defined by the following formula.

Medium width entry rate second grade machine - Medium XI after shrinkage. 〇 Inside the gray fabric In the grained fabric produced by the method of the present invention, the warp water shrinkage of the yarn is smaller than that of conventional yarns, but the width filling ratio is large, and the appearance of grains can be seen in the table. It was so good.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A method for producing a textured fabric, which comprises weaving a thermoplastic synthetic fiber stretch-cut spun yarn having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 7% or less and a twist coefficient of 4.0 to 8.0, and then subjecting it to a texture treatment.