JPS6030392B2 - Polyester fiber woven and knitted fabric and its manufacturing method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric and a method for producing the same.

Polyesters, particularly polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and polyester fibers mainly composed of these polyesters have various excellent properties and are therefore widely used in woven and knitted fabrics.

However, such polyesters lack a dry feel, and in terms of complex, deep luster, and opacity, they cannot help but lag one or two steps behind natural silk woven and knitted fabrics, and efforts are being made to bring them closer to these.

Advances in production and processing technology for polyester fiber woven and knitted materials have made it possible to obtain woven and knitted materials that are quite similar to silk woven and knitted materials in terms of fullness, drapability, and resilience. There is a big difference in terms of smooth surface touch, deep gloss, and excellent opacity, which is one of the decisive differences between silk woven and knitted fabrics and polyester fiber woven and knitted fabrics.

Dry feel refers to the dry feeling characteristic of silk fiber woven and knitted fabrics, and is in contrast to the slimy feel of polyester fiber vertically striped fabrics, but it is difficult to quantitatively measure it at present, and it is generally based on the tactile sensation of woven and knitted fabrics. It is normal that Although it is difficult to measure, it is an extremely important element in determining the properties of woven or knitted fabrics.

In addition, deep luster does not mean the metallic dullness characteristic of synthetic fibers, but rather a calm luster with fine sparkles similar to silk. Furthermore, excellent opacity is determined by the size of the interfiber voids in the woven or knitted fabric, and is an extremely important factor that affects the quality of the woven or knitted fabric.

The object of the present invention is to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks of polyester fiber woven and knitted fabrics, and to provide a polyester blended full yarn woven and knitted fabric that provides an excellent dry feel, deep gloss, and excellent opacity, and a method for producing the same. .

That is, the present invention provides a method in which at least one cross section of a mixed yarn made of two or more types of polyester fibers has a V-shaped or C-shaped cross section, and the outer periphery of the convex side of the cross section is It is a fiber with an irregular cross-section having a notch-like constriction in the center, and the outer layer of the mixed yarn is composed of a mixed yarn in which fibers with striped voids are arranged. In order to obtain such a woven or knitted fabric, for example, the cross section of at least one of the yarns formed by crossing two or more types of polyester fibers is V-shaped or C-shaped. At least one of the polyester fibers having an irregular cross-section having a cross-sectional shape of a mold and having a notch-like constriction at the substantially central portion of the outer periphery of the convex side of the cross-section, and the mixed yarn are added to the polyester composition. obtained by blending the agent and melt spinning,
In addition, the blended yarn, which is a polyester fiber containing additives with low heat shrinkability, is subjected to relaxation heat treatment and woven or knitted, or
It can be obtained by treating a woven or knitted fabric obtained by knitting, knitting, and post-relaxation heat treatment with an alkaline solution to remove the additive and generate streak-like voids.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a yarn in which at least one of the mixed yarns of two or more types of polyester fibers includes fibers having a special irregular cross-sectional shape.

Furthermore, if we explain the special irregular cross-sectional shape mentioned above,
It is necessary that the cross section thereof has a V-shaped or C-shaped cross-sectional shape, and that the outer circumference on the convex side of the cross section has a constricted portion in the center.

In the present invention, the object of the present invention can be achieved if at least one of the two or more types of polyester fibers constituting the mixed yarn is a fiber with the above-mentioned irregular cross-sectional shape.

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the cross-section of irregular cross-section fibers used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

As shown in Fig. 1, the overall cross section is shaped like an elongated fan-flat bent to one side, and the bending direction is straight except for the bent part (i.e., V-shaped); It is entirely curved (that is, C-shaped).

1 in Figure 1 shows a V-shaped cross section.
An example is shown in which there is a straight portion 1 excluding the bent portion.

FIGS. 1C and 2 show C-shaped cross sections, and show an example in which the entire structure is curved as shown in 1'.

2 indicates a notched constriction.

Next, if the opening degree of the concave side of the V-shaped or C-shaped cross-sectional shape is defined as the opening angle a of the concave side at the lowest point P of the concave side outer circumferential line as shown in FIG. Sekiguchi angle a is 160
It works particularly preferably within the range of oZOZ800.

FIG. 2 is a diagram illustrating the cross-sectional shape of the fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, and Q indicates the lowest point of the notch.

The irregular cross-section fiber used in the present invention is an irregular cross-section fiber having a notch-like constriction in the substantially central part of the outer periphery on the convex side of the cross-section, and has a thickness t of the constriction and a maximum thickness t2 of the cross-sectional shape.
is 0.4 2nd St, SO. It is preferable that the condition of 95t2 is satisfied.

If t is less than 0.4, branches will separate at the constriction during yarn spinning, which is undesirable as it will cause fluff.
On the other hand, if t exceeds 0.952, the opening angle 0 will vary less in the woven or knitted fabric, which is not preferable for achieving the object of the present invention.

Next, the blended yarn used in the present invention is a moat yarn in which fibers having striped voids are arranged in the outer layer.

Preferably, on its surface, the length is 5 mm or more, and
It is preferable that streaky voids having a length/void ratio of 5 or more account for half or more of all the streaky voids and are present in a striped pattern. Furthermore, it is preferable that two or more streak-like voids exist on the fiber surface in a direction perpendicular to the fiber direction.

FIG. 3 is a side view schematically showing the linear voids on the surface of the porous polyester fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, and 3 indicates the linear voids.

In addition, L in FIG. 3 indicates the length of the linear void, and W indicates the inside of the void at the maximum portion of the linear void.

Even if the length of the linear void is 5 mm or more, it is desirable that the diameter W of the largest portion of the void satisfies L/WZ5, and the diameter W of the largest portion of the void satisfies L/WZ5. W<
5, the ratio of the area occupied by the linear voids to the total area of the fiber surface is large, and in woven or knitted fabrics made of such fibers, fibrillation of the fibers during use, especially fibrillation of the fiber surface. This is not preferable because it causes problems such as surface abrasion and browning of the abraded area. Fibers with such a surface condition can be obtained by blending additives into a polyester composition, making it into a melt-grade yarn, treating the obtained polyester fiber with an alkaline solution, and removing the additive. . Furthermore, the polyester fiber containing the above-mentioned additives can be obtained, for example, in the following manner.

That is, the following general formula [B] RS03M...
...[B]no[ represents an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, an aryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, or an alkylaryl group, and M represents an alkali metal or an alkali metal.

] A blended polymer containing an organic sulfonic acid metal salt represented by the above formula is made into chips according to a conventional method, and after drying, it is spun and drawn according to a conventional method to obtain a multifilament.

By treating the fiber obtained as described above with an aqueous solution of an alkaline compound to dissolve and remove at least a portion of the organic sulfonic acid metal salt, a polyester fiber having linear voids can be obtained. It is.

Next, in order to distribute the polyester fibers having streak-like voids in the outer layer of the yarn, use the above-mentioned additive-containing polyester fibers, or use the additive-containing polyester fibers that have been previously treated with an alkaline solution to form streak-like voids. A polyester fiber having a polyester fiber and a polyester fiber having a higher shrinkage rate than these fibers are woven using a conventional method, and then the polyester fiber is shrunk by a relaxing heat treatment, etc., and the polyester fiber is mainly used as a yarn. This can be achieved by distributing it in the inner layer of the membrane. A known method can be used for blending additive-containing polyester fibers with polyester fibers, but in this case, the blending ratio of polyester fibers is 10 to 8% by weight, preferably 20 to 6% by weight. 90-2% by weight of polyester fiber blended with agent
, preferably in a range of 80 to 4% by weight.

The above-mentioned heat treatment may be performed in the state of the woven yarn, and the blended yarn may be woven into various woven or knitted fabrics by the methods described in Kosanku. may be applied.

The temperature of this heat treatment is preferably in the range of 90 to 170°C, and is carried out in a relaxed state in steam or hot water. In addition, the process of removing the additives from the additive-containing polyester fibers with an alkaline solution may be performed before blending, but it is preferable to remove the additives after forming the woven or knitted fabric. It is preferable to do this from a work standpoint.

The thus obtained polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has different amounts of polyester fibers having streak-like voids in the inner layer and outer layer of the longitudinally striped yarn, and the polyester fiber has a larger amount of streak-like voids in the outer layer. Because the fibers are distributed, it can provide an excellent dry feeling.

The cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber having the linear voids has a V-shaped or C-shaped cross-sectional shape, and the outer periphery of the convex side of the cross-section has a notched constriction in the center. An unusual cross-sectional shape having a section can be used.

As explained above, the present invention provides a yarn that is a mixture of two or more types of polyester fibers, in which at least one type of cross section has a V-shaped or C-shaped cross section, and The outer periphery of the convex cross-sectional side has an atypical cross-sectional fiber shape with a notch-like constriction in the center of the mesh, and the outer layer of the mixed twill yarn is a blended weave in which fibers with striped voids are arranged in a cotton-like manner. Because it is made of yarn, it has become possible to give silk woven and knitted products a dry feel, a deep luster, and excellent opacity that could not previously be obtained.

That is, the blended yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention imparts a dry feel to the woven or knitted fabric by arranging fibers having striped voids in the outer layer thereof.

In particular, when streaky voids with a length of 5 degrees or more and a length/void ratio of 5 or more occupy more than half of the total streaky voids and exist in a cotton-like manner on the surface. can provide the dry feel of silk fiber woven or knitted fabrics.

Figure 4 is a diagram showing an electron microscope of silk fibers, from which 15 to 2% by weight of sericin has been removed. When it is mixed, the fiber surface becomes uneven like cotton,
These striped irregularities are formed on the fiber surface in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction (i.e., in the direction in which the cotton-like irregularities are cut).
Buddha exists.

We obtained the knowledge that this cotton-like unevenness is what gives silk woven and knitted fabrics a unique dry feel, and by making the above-mentioned striped voids exist in a cotton-like manner, we realized the effect of these striped unevenness. That's what I'm trying to get. FIG. 5 is an electron micrograph showing an example of the surface condition of a polyester fiber having streak-like voids used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, in which the fiber surface has streak-like voids in the direction of the fiber ball. It has a flocculent shape parallel to it. Note that the striped voids do not need to be continuous, but they should have a length of 5 or more peaks and a length/void ratio of 5 or more, preferably 10 or more. It is desirable that the streaky voids account for more than half of the total streaky voids.

Further, at least one kind of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a V-shaped or C-shaped cross-sectional shape, and has a notch-shaped constriction portion approximately at the center of the outer periphery on the convex side of the cross-section. Since it uses fibers with irregular cross-sections, the position of the fibers can be changed in the woven or knitted fabric so that the entire yarn becomes flat.

This is thought to be due to the fact that the opening angle changes variously during the fabric manufacturing process, especially the finishing process, and at that time, the fibers move in the woven or knitted fabric, making the threads flat, especially in the case of woven fabrics. FIG. 6 is a diagram showing a photograph of a cross section of a fabric that is an embodiment of the present invention.

In FIG. 6, A indicates fibers with irregular cross-sections among the two types of fibers constituting the warp of the fabric, and B indicates other fibers. The threads A constituting the warp do not have a filling effect on each other, and the opening angle changes over a wide range within the weaving and knitting, so there is no filling effect due to the cross-sectional shape as in conventional woven and knitted fabrics made of irregular cross-section fibers. Therefore, the fibers that make up the woven or knitted fabric can easily change their positions. Due to this change in position, the yarn becomes flat during weaving and knitting, which contributes to increasing the opacity of the fabric.

This change in Sekiguchi angle 8 is thought to be as follows. The threads are generally woven and knitted and given a beam color finish to produce a woven or knitted fabric.

In each process from yarn to woven or knitted fabric, the fibers that make up the yarn are subjected to various external forces. For example, in the weaving stage, the fibers used as warp yarns are subjected to yarn tension and the frictional force of contact with paper, and the fibers used as striped yarns are subjected to twisting, tube winding tension, etc. In addition, at the stripe-making stage, there is rope-making tension due to the stripe needle. Furthermore, in the dyeing and finishing stage, high temperatures may be applied during heat setting, or limited shrinkage heat treatment may be applied. It is thought that during this process, the initial C-shaped or V-shaped cross-sectional opening angle changes to various angles due to the process in which contact friction force is applied, and this change causes the above-mentioned filling effect. It is assumed that this prevents the occurrence of

Further, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, when the fibers in the outer layer of the yarn constituting the fabric have streak-like voids and the cross-sectional shape is V-shaped or C-shaped, it is different from conventional fabrics. Unlike the metallic luster that the irregular cross-section fibers had, it has a mild luster that is very close to the luster that silk fiber woven and knitted fabrics have.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a sectional view showing an example of the cross section of irregular cross-section fibers used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a diagram illustrating the cross-sectional shape of fibers used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention. FIG. 3 is a side view schematically showing the linear voids on the surface of the polyester fiber having the linear voids used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention. FIG. 4 is an electron micrograph showing an example of the surface condition of silk fibers.
FIG. 5 is an electron micrograph showing an example of the surface condition of polyester fibers having linear voids used in the woven wire fabric of the present invention. FIG. 6 is a diagram showing a micrograph of a cross section of a fabric that is one embodiment of the present invention. 2... Constriction, 3... Streak void. ↑Fig.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. At least one cross section of the mixed yarn consisting of two or more types of polyester fibers has a V-shaped or C-shaped cross section, and the outer periphery of the convex side of the cross section It is characterized by being made of a mixed fiber yarn having irregular cross-section fibers having a notch-like constriction in the center, and fibers in which striped voids are present in the outer layer of the mixed fiber yarn. Polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric. 2. At least one type of yarn made of a blend of two or more types of polyester fibers has a V-shaped or C-shaped cross section, and approximately at the center of the outer periphery of the convex side of the cross section, In addition to being an irregular cross-sectional fiber having a notch-like constriction, at least one of the mixed fiber yarns is obtained by melt-spinning a polyester composition mixed with an additive, and the additive has low heat shrinkability. The blended yarn, which is a polyester fiber containing the agent, is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment and then woven and knitted, or the woven or knitted fabric obtained by woven and knitted and then subjected to a relaxation heat treatment is treated with an alkaline solution, and the above-mentioned addition is carried out. 1. A method for producing a polyester fiber woven or knitted material, which comprises removing the agent and generating streak-like voids. 3 The cross section has a V-shaped or C-shaped cross-sectional shape,
3. The method according to claim 2, wherein the irregular cross-section fiber having a notch-like constriction at approximately the center of the outer periphery of the convex cross-section is an additive-containing polyester fiber.