JPS6017188A - Cloth dyeing method - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] This invention relates to a dyeing method for dyeing fabric to exhibit an iridescent effect (iridescent color), and a novel method for dyeing fabric that exhibits an iridescent effect, which is beautiful and has high commercial value, through a simple dyeing process. Its main purpose is to provide a dyeing method.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a novel dyeing method that can be applied to existing dyeing equipment in a textile printing factory or the like to dye fabric to give it an iridescent effect.

Furthermore, the present invention allows fabrics such as undyed "chirimen fabric" and "crest design fabric", which are traded as "Kijiku" and "Hashaku", to be made to exhibit an iridescent effect according to the consumer's preference. Another object of the present invention is to provide a novel dyeing method that enables dyeing.

Fabrics exhibiting the well-known tōshi effect are well known, and in ancient times there was a fabric exhibiting the bead effect called ``Kai silk''. This fabric is a plain-woven fabric that is densely woven using a unique red dyed dyed silk thread and weft threads, giving it an iridescent effect whose color changes depending on the viewing angle.

The method of creating an iridescent effect by weaving uniquely colored warp and weft yarns, as seen in ``Omushi Kaiki'' (Article 1), is still widely used in modern times, and this method is used to create fabrics for women's clothing, clothing linings, and rain. It is also well known that fabrics exhibiting the iridescent effect seen in coats and the like are woven.

However, in order to obtain a fabric exhibiting an iridescent effect by the method described in Section 2, it is necessary to use warps and wefts of different colors that have been dyed in advance, which poses a problem in the case of multi-product, small-scale production. .

Therefore, in the industry, methods have been proposed for obtaining fabrics exhibiting an iridescent effect by post-dying, instead of using the method described in the above.

That is, it is a method in which a fabric woven using two types of yarns with different dyeability as warp and weft is dyed using two different dyes depending on the dyeability of each yarn. When this method is used, the result is similar to the previously dyed fabric woven using different colored warp and weft yarns, in other words, it exhibits an iridescent effect whose color changes depending on the viewing angle. Fabric is obtained.

However, in this case (C), it is essential to use two types of yarn with different dyeability, so fabrics woven using one type of yarn (for example, 100 thread silk fabric, ioo%su・r long fabric) etc.) and yarn a, 'JTl, which have the same dyeability even if they are two types of yarn.
It is impossible to apply Litl K.
1).

By the way, in the Rikiichisou industry, especially in the ``Zenmin'' industry, high-quality kimono are sold primarily in the form of undyed ``mon-design areas'' that are traded as ``kimono'' and ``hashaku.'' silk 1
In many cases, the customer selects the fabric of their choice, then dyes the fabric in the desired color and pattern, and finally sews it into a kimono or haori before delivery.
In such cases, it is completely impossible to apply the above two methods.

The present inventor has proposed that when the sales mode as listed in 1 is adopted, 10 pieces of undyed silk with "patterned design" etc. selected by the consumer.
If it were possible to dye 0chi fabric to create an iridescent effect, it would be possible to make it more diverse (it would be able to meet the tastes of certain consumers, and it would help to stimulate demand for kimono, which is on the decline). With this in mind, we have spent many years researching methods to dye fabrics woven with a single type of thread to create an iridescent effect.

As a result of many experiments, the inventor of the present invention found that by using a method of discharging the fabric surface using a well-known roll printing machine and a discharging agent, it is possible to weave with one type of yarn. By dyeing fabrics and fabrics woven using two or more types of threads with the same dyeability, it is possible to obtain fabrics that exhibit an iridescent effect whose color changes depending on the viewing angle, similar to the two methods described above. Knowing this, they completed the present invention.

That is, the wooden invention dyes the target fabric using dye holes that are not bleached by applying a discharge dyeing agent and dye iB that is different in color from the dye and is bleached by applying the discharge dyeing agent. Performing a discharge printing process by applying a printing paste containing a discharge printing agent to the surface of the fabric using a roll printing machine, and causing the dyed color to appear only in the dye holes on the part to which the printing paste has been adhered, The other parts retain the color dyed with the dye hole and the dye B,
This is a method of dyeing fabrics whose characteristic is to produce an iridescent effect.

The structure and effects of the wooden invention are as follows.

First, the "first mechanism exhibiting the bead effect" in the present invention will be explained.

Conventional fabrics exhibiting an iridescent effect have warp and weft yarns of different colors, so the fabric is tilted at a certain angle. 7 When viewed from a certain angle, the color of the warp is primarily visible, and when viewed from a certain angle, the color of the weft is primarily visible, giving the viewer an iridescent effect in which the color changes depending on the viewing angle. It makes them aware.

In the fabric dyed by the method of the present invention, all the warp threads and all the weft threads of the fabric are not dyed in different colors, but when viewed from a certain angle, the colors dyed only with the dye A are mainly visible. When viewed from a certain angle, the colors dyed with the dyestuff and the dye B are mainly visible, giving the viewer an iridescent effect in which the color of the fabric changes depending on the viewing angle. It makes people recognize that it exhibits the following. The iridescent effect perceived by the viewer is almost the same as in the case of cloth produced by the conventional method described above.

To be more specific, for example, the color dyed with the dye is ``
Blue J, the color dyed with nil dye B is "red"
In this case, the color of the fabric dyed using these two types of dyes will be perceived as ``purple'' by the viewer.

Now, when a printing paste containing a discharge printing agent (a discharge printing agent that decolorizes only dye B) is applied to the surface of the above-mentioned "purple" fabric using a roll printing machine, the printing paste forms the fabric. It does not adhere to the entire circumference of the threads, but it does adhere to the parts that are exposed to the surface of the fabric and its vicinity, but it does not adhere to the parts where the threads are in contact with each other, or near the intersection of the warp and weft. Does not stick. If discharge printing is performed in this state, the part to which the printing paste is attached will be bleached, but the other parts will not be bleached, so the parts of the thread that make up the fabric that are exposed on the surface of the fabric and The area around it will be "blue", but
The areas where the lined threads touch each other and the vicinity of the intersection of the warp and weft remain ``purple''.

Therefore, when a viewer looks at the fabric surface from the front, the fabric that has been subjected to the discharge printing process described in ``2'' mainly appears ``blue''.
When the surface of the fabric is viewed from an oblique direction, it is mainly seen as a ``purple'' color, and the viewer recognizes it as exhibiting an iridescent effect that changes between ``blue'' and ``purple'' depending on the angle from which the fabric is viewed. It is.

Next, each element constituting the present invention will be explained.

The target fabric is not limited in terms of material and can be dyed as long as it can be dyed, but the fabric should be selected to have a relatively dense texture. In the case of fabrics that are too coarse, when applying printing paste using a roll printing machine, the printing paste will adhere to almost the entire circumference of the threads that make up the fabric. So I don't like it.

Fabrics with a dense weave structure and fine irregularities formed on the surface, such as the 100% silk "patterned pattern" or "crepe fabric" mentioned above, are most suitable as objects.

Application of a discharging agent (dye that is not bleached) ＼ and Dye B which has a different color from the dye and is bleached by the application of a discharging agent
Various dyes such as direct dyes, acid dyes, basic dyes, and reactive dyes can be used as dyes, but the selection of their combinations is of course dependent on the selection of dyes. tl-consideration 7 is carried out. A dye with low (bad) dischargeability is selected, and a dye with high (good) dischargeability is selected as dye 'ji and 'IB. For example, discharge printing agents commonly used in the industry include Hydrozulfy 1, Longarinoto, Decrolin Soluble Conc, and Superbuil 1-8Z (trade name). Good results can be obtained by selecting, as the dye, a direct dye alloy type or acid dye with low dischargeability, and as the dye E3, an ordinary type of IJf dye with bright dischargeability. It will be done. As is well known, various commercially available dyes include
The degree of dischargeability depending on the type of discharge printing agent is displayed on a scale of 5 to 1, so refer to this display and select dye A1 dye size B
This also refers to the selection of a discharge printing agent; of course, it is necessary to use only dyes with low discharge properties as the dyestuff, and only those with high discharge properties as the dye B.

As the printing paste, those commercially available for printing may be used. The amount of discharge agent added to the printing paste is generally used in an amount of about 10 to 10 kg per weight of the paste.

Next, when dyeing the target fabric using two types of dyes, the dye A and the dye B, the dyeing method is carried out according to a conventional method, but the following three methods are used. rj!
There is Mr. A.

Dyeing by bath.

(2) Two-bath method The target fabric is first dyed in a dye bath in which the dye B is dissolved, and then dyed in a dye bath in which the dye B is dissolved.

■ Combination method of ground dyeing and draw dyeing The target fabric is first dyed (ground dyeing) with a dye bath in which the dye A is dissolved, and then the dye solution in which the dye B is dissolved is applied to the fabric surface using a spatula. After applying a discharge printing process to be described later, a ``mushi'' process is applied and dyed (hide dyeing).

According to any of the above embodiments, the fabric dyed in a conventional manner using two types of dyes, the dye A and the dye B, is subjected to a discharge printing process using a roll printing machine.

A well-known roll printing machine is used. The mode of use thereof is also well known, except that a printing paste containing an appropriate amount of the discharge printing agent is used.

However, in the present invention, the technical significance of using a roll printing machine in applying the printing paste to the surface of the fabric is important.

This is because, as mentioned above, in the present invention, the parts of the threads constituting the target fabric that are exposed on the surface of the fabric and the vicinity thereof are bleached, and the parts where the lined yarns are in contact with each other and the warp threads are bleached. It is essential that the area near the intersection with the weft is not bleached, and for this reason, the printing paste should not adhere to the area where the yarn that makes up the target fabric is exposed to the surface of the fabric and its vicinity. It must be kept free from adhesion to areas where lined yarns touch each other or near intersections between warp and weft, but the most appropriate means to achieve this is to use a roll printing machine. That's why.

That is, as is well known, a roll printing machine is mainly composed of a concave roll to which printing paste is applied, a drum, and a doctor. A fixed amount of printing paste is applied to the surface of the fabric by passing it through the fabric. If this is used, printing paste can be applied uniformly to the surface of the target fabric while applying uniform spreading tension. Therefore, the above state can be realized easily and efficiently.

In carrying out the present invention, the printing paste is usually applied to the entire surface of the fabric, but if necessary, the printing paste may be applied partially in a pattern. In the former case, a concave plate roll with a plain color is used; in the latter case, a patterned concave plate roll is used.

If a fabric that has been subjected to discharge printing using a roll printing machine is washed in a conventional manner, washed with water, and dried, a fabric exhibiting the desired iridescent effect can be obtained.

In addition, in the case of the above-mentioned mode (■), "bugs" are removed before washing with water.
After that, wash with water and dry according to the usual method.

As is clear from the above, the present invention does not require special equipment or special dyes, and can be easily carried out using existing equipment in a textile printing factory, etc., and commercially available dyes. In this way, fabrics can be dyed to create an iridescent effect.

Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail by examples.
The present invention is not to be construed as limited by the Examples described below; for example, the present invention can be carried out even if the type of target fabric, the type of dye used, etc. are other than those listed in the Examples. Of course.

In each of the examples, "shu" means "heavy".

Example 1゜A plain weave plain white kimono made of silk threads for both the warp and cotton threads,
C1 engineering, AQi (l Eyutte 127 (Ln, n
3rl Brico, 1iantBlue (), ext
ra cone: Resident Chemical] 0.2% and C0
Engineering, Di, rect Red 39 (KayOLlcu
Direct 5carlet 3B2 (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) 20 parts was dissolved and dyed at 80°C in a dye bath to which anhydrous sodium sulfate and Monogen (trade name) C5 were added.
Staining was carried out in the usual manner for 0 minutes.

The fabric has a "purple" color when viewed from the front or from an angle.

Next, the above-mentioned "Purple J" fabric was run through a low/L/textile printing machine, and a printing grade (starch paste) containing 15% SZ (product name: Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd.) (1 warp < - rye) was applied to the entire surface of the fabric. is applied uniformly and surface discharge printing is performed according to a conventional method.

The fabric thus obtained had a ``purplish blue'' color when viewed from the front, and a ``purple'' iridescence effect when viewed from an oblique direction. The back side of the fabric (the side to which the printing paste was not attached) had a "purple" color.

Example 2゜' A kimono of a white patterned fabric made of silk threads for both the warp and weft was made with TJELnELCrOn Black S'E: Chipa Geigy Co., Ltd. 0.4% dissolved, ammonium sulfate 3% and A1b6
Al
It was stained with C for 50 minutes in the usual manner.

The above-mentioned fabric exhibits a "mouse-colored" appearance both when viewed from the front and from an oblique direction.

On the surface of the above-mentioned "mouse-colored" fabric, by the dyeing method,
C, ■, Di, rect Red, 39 (Kayaku
Direct 5carlet 5B: Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) A dye solution in which 2% was dissolved was applied with a spatula and air-dried.

'' The fabric exhibits a pinkish gray color when viewed from the front or from an angle.

Next, the above-mentioned "pinkish gray" fabric is run through a roll printing machine, and a printing grade (starch paste) containing 1% of sZ (mentioned above) is applied uniformly to the entire surface of the fabric. After discharging the surface according to the conventional method, heat at 95°C.
``Mushi'' for 40 minutes, followed by washing with water and drying.

child! When viewed from the front, the fabric obtained had a ``mouse-colored'' appearance, and when viewed from an angle, it had a ``pinkish-mouse-colored'' iridescent effect. The back side of the fabric had a "pinkish gray color".

Example 3゜The warp and weft are both made of silk thread, and the white pattern design fabric is made of silk.
C, Engineering, Ac1d Elue 127 (Kayano
l Min, ingElue GW: Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.)
o, 2%, c, Engineering@Ac1d Green25 (Kay
anol Cyclyune, GreenG: Nippon Kayaku φ stock) 2.0 crack and C, Engineering, Ac1d Green
2B (Kayanol Mil-11ngGreen
5GW: Dissolve lT'l ligniferous drug stock 9Ω, 2%,
Dyeing was carried out in a conventional manner at 80° C. for 40 minutes using a dye bath containing 10% anhydrous sodium sulfate and 0.5 parts of Monogen (trade name).

The above-mentioned fabric exhibits a "blue-green" color when viewed from the front or from an oblique direction.

The surface of the above-mentioned "blue-green" fabric is dyed using the dyeing method.
C0 engineering, Direct Yellow 12 (Chry
A dye solution containing 0.2% Sophenine Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd. dissolved therein was applied with a spatula and air-dried.

The above-mentioned fabric exhibits a "yellow-green" color both when viewed from the front and from an oblique direction.

Next, the above-mentioned "yellow-green" fabric was run through a roll printing machine, and a printing grade (starch paste) containing 15% of Rongarits was applied uniformly to the entire surface of the fabric, and the surface was discharged according to a conventional method. , at 95°C for 50 minutes, followed by washing with water and drying.

The fabric thus obtained had a ``blue-green'' color when viewed from the front, and a ``yellow-green'' iridescence effect when viewed from an oblique direction. Note that the back side of the fabric had a "yellow-green" color.

patent applicant Yosuke Takahashi

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) After dyeing the target fabric with dye A, which is not bleached by applying a discharge dyeing agent, and dye B, which has a different color from the dye and which is bleached by applying the discharge dyeing agent, the surface of the fabric after dyeing is dyed. Using a roll printing machine, a printing paste mixed with a discharge printing agent is applied and a discharge printing process is performed, and the area to which the printing paste is applied is made to express the color dyed only with the dyestuff, and the other parts are A method for dyeing fabric, characterized in that the part retains the color dyed with the dye A and the dye B, thereby creating an iridescent effect. (2) The fabric dyeing method according to claim 1, wherein the target fabric is a patterned fabric in which both the warp and the weft are made of silk threads.