JPS60104551A - Weaving of hard twisted yarn fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method of weaving a highly twisted yarn fabric using a water jet loom.

The water jet loom has been developed as a highly productive loom, and in recent years, along with the increase in productivity, devices such as two-color weft insertion have been developed, expanding its versatility, and its use has rapidly increased. However, compared to conventional looms such as shuttle looms, there are still many problems (1) remaining, and various studies are being carried out. One of these problems is when a highly twisted synthetic fiber filament such as polyester filament or polyamide filament is used as the weft. In other words, when weaving using a water jet loom using these highly twisted yarns for the weft yarns, compared to those woven using a shuttle loom, weaving after relaxing in the dyeing and finishing process is poor, and the texture and grain are inferior. It has been considered difficult to weave high-quality textiles using water jet looms.

In order to improve the above points, the present inventor previously proposed a method of using unset strongly twisted yarn as the weft (Japanese Patent Application No. 57-96577), but there is still room for improvement in terms of workability, texture, and grain. After further investigation, we obtained the following findings.

When observing the cross section of a high-twist fabric woven using a conventional water jet loom, although there are some differences depending on the type of fabric, there is a poor balance in the degree of curvature of the warp and weft tissue points that make up the fabric. , because the weft yarns are significantly curved compared to the warp yarns, (2) the woven fabric is flat, hard, and has a paper-like texture, and even after passing through the glue lasso process in the dyeing and finishing process, there is little width addition in the relaxing process. , The texture and grain of the dyed fabric is inferior. On the other hand, the strong natural yarn fabrics woven by shuttle looms have a good balance in the degree of curvature of the warp and weft yarns, and the weft yarns are also curved in a harmonious manner, so the fabric has tension and a good texture. There is also a large increase in width during the relaxation process,
The texture and grain of the dyed fabric are good.

Regarding the difference between these two, in the weaving process using a shuttle loom, the warp and weft yarns that make up the fabric are organized under moderate tension, so that they curve harmoniously, and the width is sufficiently increased during the relaxing process. This is due to the construction of a so-called activated woven structure.On the other hand, in a loom using a water jet loom, the weft insertion is performed by water jet, so the weft insertion tension is low and the tension adjustment range is narrow (
(3) Therefore, as mentioned above, it is difficult to increase the tension to an appropriate level, making it impossible to curve and organize the weft yarns in a harmonious manner, and making the width insufficient in the relaxing process. In the jet room, the texture,
It has been considered difficult to weave high-quality, highly twisted yarn fabrics with strict grain requirements.

However, when weft tension during weft insertion was measured and investigated using a high-speed tension meter, we found that in shuttle looms, weft tension has no relation to the loom timing, but is dependent on the device consisting of a frame tube and the type of frame tube. Differences occur depending on the amount, for example polyester 75D/48p, s, z 2500 T
/H strong twist yarn is usually inserted in the range of 15 to 30 g, whereas in the water jet loom, the weft is inserted instantly at the start of injection and the completion of free flight (the completion of flight of the stored yarn).
A high tension of 0 to 70 g is applied to the weft, and it is difficult to simply compare the two with different tension application forms, but it is difficult to say that the weft insertion tension in the water jet loom is necessarily low, and the warp and weft interlace I learned that it is necessary to carefully consider the timing of

The present invention was completed based on the above findings.

That is, in the present invention, the weft has a twist index Tn of 1.5×go≦Tn (
4) Using synthetic fiber filament strong twist yarn of ≦a, ox16,
The warp shedding static angle Dw is set to 8 by the water jet loom.
A method of weaving a strongly twisted yarn fabric, characterized in that the weaving is carried out at 0°≦Dw≦140°, and more preferably a method in which 55% or more of the warp shedding rest angle Dw is set forward of the centering point. be.

In the present invention, the twist index is a value calculated from the formula Tn=N/Tr (D: fineness (denier)).

N = number of twists T/M), warp shedding rest angle D- indicates the crank rotation angle of the loom while the warp is at rest in the maximum shedding state, and the maximum shedding state is defined by actually measuring the amount of warp movement, A condition in which the warp threads are located within 5m from the maximum movement point.

In the method of the present invention, the weft includes synthetic fiber filaments,
That is, highly twisted yarns of polyester filaments or polyamide filaments are used, and set yarns or unset yarns are used which are twisted in the range of twist index Tn of 1.5×傅≦Tn≦3.0×of'. Twist index Tn is 1.5X1
If it is less than 0, the width will not be increased sufficiently in the relaxing process, and a fabric with good texture and grain will not be obtained (5). Furthermore, when the twist index Tn exceeds 3.0×16, it becomes difficult to prevent the occurrence of snarls during weft yarn feeding, and the strength also decreases.

Next, when weaving in a water jet loom using the highly twisted yarn as the weft, the warp opening static angle Dw is set to 80°≦Dw.
It is necessary to perform this in the range of ≦140°, and by selecting the warp shedding rest angle Dw in this range, the weft after beating is applied to the weft in a state where the high tension applied at the completion of free flight still remains. It is possible to lengthen the time for the next warp shedding, that is, the tightening time by the warp to which high tension is applied, so that both the warp and the weft can intersect and curve in a harmonious manner. If the warp opening resting angle is less than 80°,
The time of applying high tension to the warp to tighten the weft is short, and it is difficult to curve the warp and weft in a harmonious manner, and if the warp shedding static angle Dw exceeds 140°, the warp The time for which high tension is applied to the material becomes too long, leading to frequent occurrence of fuzz, making high-speed weaving difficult.

Furthermore, in the method of the present invention, when weaving under the warp shedding condition in the range of the warp shedding static (6) upper angle Dw, it is possible to apply high tension by the warp to the weft that is under high tension after the completion of free flight. It is best to do this as early as possible.
It is effective in harmoniously curving the weft threads. Therefore, assuming that the forward pumping position is Oo, it is preferable that 55% or more of the warp shedding resting angle Dtn be in front of 180° (back center) of the crank angle. For example, if 55% of the warp shedding resting angle Dw is set forward of the back center, the warp shedding resting angle Dw is 136% at the crank angle when D is 80°.
If D- is 140°, the crank angle is in the range from 103° to 243°. These conditions may be appropriately set depending on the yarn type, weavability, weaving density, etc.

The water jet loom was originally developed as a high-productivity loom, and as a plain shedding device, the crank shedding method is adopted because it can easily keep up with higher speeds. However, in the method of the present invention, as mentioned above, in order to obtain a highly twisted yarn with excellent texture and grain, it is necessary to increase the time of applying high tension to the warp yarns (7), and the warp shedding rest angle Dw must be increased. It has to be made larger than usual, but for this purpose the warp shedding method is inappropriate and a cam shedding method must be adopted.

As described above, in the method of the present invention, the weft has a twist index Tn of 1.
．． 5X1σ≦Tn≦s, o x 16r Using a synthetic fiber filament strongly twisted yarn, the warp shedding rest angle Dw is determined by water jet loom, taking into account various conditions such as yarn type, required quality, weaving density, weavability, etc. 80°≦Dw≦140, which is larger than that of normal weaving using a jet loom
The present invention is characterized in that the weaving is carried out by advancing the timing of warp shedding so that the warp shedding rest angle Dw is appropriately set within a range of 55%, and is preferably in front of the back center at an appropriate ratio of 55% or more. As a result, for the weft yarn in which the high tension applied at the completion of free flight still remains,
During the next shedding process after beating the reed, high tension is applied to the warp yarns, which are tightened at an early timing for a long period of time, so that both the warp and weft yarns are sufficiently stretched, greatly curved, and harmoniously organized, reducing the holding stress. A highly activated woven structure is formed, and the subsequent dyeing and finishing process allows for good width adjustment through glue lax treatment, resulting in a highly twisted yarn fabric with excellent texture and grain, which was previously difficult to achieve. This technology enables the weaving of high-grade, highly twisted yarn fabrics using a water jet loom.

Examples of the present invention are listed below.

Example 1 A substituted yarn of polyester filament 500/36F with a twist number of 300 T/M was used for the warp, and a highly twisted yarn of polyester filament 75D/48F with a twist number of 25007/M and a twist index Tn 2.16 Xl0) was used for the weft. S, 22 jets used alternately, Tsudakoma Water Jet Loom ZW200
(2 picks), weaving density: warp 154/inch x weft 90
A plain woven fabric of 1/4 inch was woven at a speed of 400 times/minute using the method of the present invention using the cam opening method and the conventional method using the crank opening method, and the resulting woven fabric (gray fabric) was relaxed with a row washer. I finished it.

Table 1 shows the weaving conditions and the quality evaluation results of the finished fabric.

(9) Table 1 As is clear from Table 1, according to the method of the present invention, compared to the conventional method, the relaxation process produces a high-quality product with greater width, high grain, and soft texture. A highly twisted yarn fabric was obtained.

Example 2゜Warp of Example 1. Using the same replacement yarn as in the case of
0 T/M, tl! '5. Index Tn 2.16 xio
The fabric was woven and finished in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 (10), using 22 unset, strongly twisted yarns of ``S'' alternately.Table 2 shows the weaving conditions and the quality evaluation results of the finished fabric.

Table 2 As is clear from the results in Table 2, according to the method of the present invention, it is possible to fully utilize the strong untwisting torque of unseparated I/yarn, and it is possible to increase the width in the relaxing process. It was possible to obtain a woven fabric with very large, high grains and a soft texture. On the other hand, in conventional weaving,
Even though unset yarn was used, the width was not sufficiently increased during the relaxing treatment, resulting in a fabric with poor grain and texture.

Patent applicant: Unitika Co., Ltd. Agent: Patent Attorney Shigeki Okumura

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) The twist index Tn of the weft is 1.5×16≦Tn≦3. O
Using X1♂ synthetic fiber filament strongly twisted yarn, the warp opening resting angle k was adjusted to 80°≦D− using a water jet loom.
A method for weaving a strongly twisted yarn fabric, characterized by weaving the yarn at an angle of ≦140°. (2) 55% or more of the warp shedding rest angle Dw is set to the front than the back.
) A method for weaving a strongly twisted yarn fabric as described in item 2.