JPS593576B2 - Manufacturing method of yarn for crepe textiles - Google Patents

Manufacturing method of yarn for crepe textiles

Info

Publication number
JPS593576B2
JPS593576B2 JP49059309A JP5930974A JPS593576B2 JP S593576 B2 JPS593576 B2 JP S593576B2 JP 49059309 A JP49059309 A JP 49059309A JP 5930974 A JP5930974 A JP 5930974A JP S593576 B2 JPS593576 B2 JP S593576B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
synthetic polymer
yarn
fiber
crepe
twist
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
JP49059309A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS50152049A (en
Inventor
真三 西角
逸男 多林
弘二 北
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Toray Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Industries Inc filed Critical Toray Industries Inc
Priority to JP49059309A priority Critical patent/JPS593576B2/en
Publication of JPS50152049A publication Critical patent/JPS50152049A/ja
Publication of JPS593576B2 publication Critical patent/JPS593576B2/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 本発明は合成繊維紡績糸を用いたクレープ織物用紡績糸
に関するものであり、更に詳しくは液体(溶剤)により
溶解流動を起こす合成重合体と該溶剤により溶解流動を
起こさない合成重合体とを複合紡糸して得られたステー
ブルを用いて紡績、あるいは混紡紡績して出来た糸状の
強撚糸を強撚の状態で前記溶剤により処理し溶解流動を
起こす合成重合体2を糸条表面に溶解流動させることに
より、溶剤により溶解流動を起こさない合成重合体繊維
、あるいは混紡繊維のビリ度、ビリ収縮率などシボ発生
に必要な強撚状の撚トルクを減少させることなくそのま
ま合成重合体の溶解流動により合成重合体繊維、あるい
は混紡繊維の周囲への被覆によって撚の1時固定を行な
い、織成後シボ立てを行なうことによって従来の合成繊
維紡績糸条にみられなかった風合を有するクレープ織物
を得る合成繊維紡績糸条の製造方法に関するものである
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a spun yarn for crepe fabric using synthetic fiber spun yarn, and more specifically to a synthetic polymer that causes dissolution and flow due to a liquid (solvent) and a synthetic polymer that causes dissolution and flow due to the solvent. Synthetic polymer 2 which causes dissolution and flow by treating filament-like strongly twisted yarn produced by spinning or mixed spinning using a stable obtained by composite spinning with a synthetic polymer with no synthetic polymer in a highly twisted state with the above solvent. By dissolving and flowing on the yarn surface, it is possible to create synthetic polymer fibers that do not dissolve and flow due to solvents, or blended fibers without reducing the strong twisting torque required to generate grain, such as the degree of frizz and shrinkage rate of fibers. By directly fixing the twist by coating the synthetic polymer fibers or blended fibers around them by dissolving and flowing the synthetic polymer, and by creating a texture after weaving, we can create a yarn that is not seen in conventional synthetic fiber spun yarns. The present invention relates to a method for producing a synthetic fiber spun yarn to obtain a crepe fabric having a texture.

従来、合成繊維紡績糸条を用いたクレープ織物用糸を製
造する方法は数多くあるが、どの方法も従来天然繊維に
みられるようなシボ、風合いを有するクレープ織物を製
造するに至っていない。
Conventionally, there are many methods for producing threads for crepe fabrics using synthetic fiber spun threads, but none of these methods has led to the production of crepe fabrics having the same grain and texture as conventionally seen in natural fibers.

即ち、従来クレープ織物を製造する場合、撚を1時固定
しビリ度、ビリ収縮率などを減少させることなく準備、
製織工程等での取扱いを容易にしなければならないため
に、合成繊維紡績糸条の強撚糸条を高温の熱で撚固定す
る必要があり、このために合成繊維は熱変形を起こしせ
っかくのビリ度、ビリ収縮率などが減少してしまうとい
う矛盾した結果を招いている。
That is, in the conventional production of crepe fabrics, the twist was fixed at one time and the preparation was carried out without reducing the degree of twist and shrinkage rate.
In order to facilitate handling in the weaving process, etc., it is necessary to twist and fix the highly twisted yarn of the synthetic fiber spun yarn using high temperature heat, which causes the synthetic fiber to undergo thermal deformation and reduce its friability. This results in a contradictory result in that the shrinkage rate and other factors decrease.

このために満足なシボ織物を安定して製造することが困
難であった。
For this reason, it has been difficult to stably produce a satisfactory grained fabric.

又従来よく行なわれている糊剤により撚の1時固定をす
る方法では、糊剤の付着ムラ、あるいは糊剤によって糸
と糸との接着が生じ、又糊付、セットを行なう場合でも
セット温度と糊剤の関係について十分に検討して行なわ
ないと巻返し、製織時にビレ、接着ムラ等が障害となり
、たきえ織成しても織物面にスナール状欠点が入り、満
足な製品とする事が困難であった。
In addition, in the conventional method of temporarily fixing the twist using a sizing agent, uneven adhesion of the sizing agent or adhesion between yarns due to the sizing agent may occur, and even when sizing and setting are performed, the setting temperature may vary. If the relationship between the material and the glue is not carefully considered, rewinding, cracking, uneven adhesion, etc. will be a problem during weaving, and even if wood is woven, snarl-like defects will appear on the woven fabric surface, making it difficult to produce a satisfactory product. Met.

また先願例として特開昭50−83547号公報の方法
もあるが、かかる方法はフィラメント糸を用いるもので
あり、毛羽がないので風合が満足されず、また200デ
ニールをこえる人物では、高率減量しても風合が粗硬と
なる欠点がある。
There is also a method disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 50-83547 as an example of a prior application, but this method uses filament threads and does not have fluff, so the texture is not satisfactory, and it is difficult for people with a weight of over 200 deniers to Even if the weight loss is reduced, the texture remains rough and hard.

これはフィラメント強撚糸は糸構造的にルーズ性がない
ためである。
This is because the highly twisted filament yarn has no looseness in its yarn structure.

本発明の目的は上記の如き従来技術の欠点を改善するも
のであり、強撚状態でありながらその取扱いが極めて容
易で、織物とした場合シボ質、風合、ボリューム感にお
いて天然繊維に類似したクレープ織物用糸を提供するも
のである。
The purpose of the present invention is to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art.It is extremely easy to handle even though it is in a highly twisted state, and when made into a woven fabric, it has a texture similar to natural fibers in texture, texture, and volume. The present invention provides yarn for crepe fabrics.

以下に本発明の製造法について述べる。The manufacturing method of the present invention will be described below.

本発明は好ましくは0〜100℃の液体(溶剤)で溶解
流動する合成重合体2と該液体で溶解流動を起こさない
合成重合体1とを第1図、第2図に示すような断面形態
で複合紡糸し、しかる後に延伸−カットしステープルに
する。
The present invention preferably uses a synthetic polymer 2 that dissolves and flows in a liquid (solvent) at a temperature of 0 to 100°C and a synthetic polymer 1 that does not dissolve and flow in the liquid in a cross-sectional form as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. The fibers are composite-spun and then drawn and cut into staples.

該ステーブルを用いて他繊維3と混紡、あるいは100
%で紡績糸条を製造する。
Using this stable, blend with other fibers 3 or 100
% to produce spun yarn.

このようにして得られた糸条に追撚を施して強撚状態を
得、該状態のまま0〜100℃の前記液体で合成重合体
2を溶解流動させて撚の1時固定を施すものである。
The yarn thus obtained is further twisted to obtain a highly twisted state, and in this state, the synthetic polymer 2 is dissolved and flowed in the liquid at 0 to 100°C to temporarily fix the twist. It is.

尚、シボを得るために紡績糸の総撚係数は5.0以上と
することが必要である。
In order to obtain grain, the total twist coefficient of the spun yarn must be 5.0 or more.

該撚の1時固定をする液体の温度は合成重合体1、ある
いは他繊維3が熱固定されない温度以下つまり強撚によ
る撚トルクを減じさせない温度以下で行なう必要がある
The temperature of the liquid for temporarily fixing the twist must be below the temperature at which the synthetic polymer 1 or other fibers 3 are not heat-set, that is, below the temperature at which the twisting torque due to strong twisting is not reduced.

ここで、溶剤による溶解流動とは合成重合体2を溶剤に
より溶解除去するものではなく、溶解によって合成重合
体繊維1、あるいは他繊維3の周りを被覆する如く流動
させるものであり、これは溶剤の濃度を薄くするか又は
処理時間を短かくするこさによって達成される。
Here, dissolving and flowing with a solvent does not mean dissolving and removing the synthetic polymer 2 with a solvent, but rather making it flow so as to cover the synthetic polymer fibers 1 or other fibers 3 by dissolving them. This can be achieved by reducing the concentration or shortening the processing time.

本発明は上記撚の1時固定を施された合成繊維紡績糸条
を織物にしたのち、40〜100℃の熱水或は溶剤でシ
ボ立て処理することによりクレープ織物さすることがで
きる。
In the present invention, a crepe fabric can be obtained by forming the synthetic fiber spun yarn, which has undergone the above-mentioned twist fixation, into a fabric, and then subjecting the fabric to a texturing treatment with hot water or a solvent at 40 to 100°C.

第1図、第2図は本発明に使用する複合繊維の断面を示
す図であり、第1図は合成重合体繊維1の周りに溶剤に
より溶解流動する合成重合体成分2が被覆された芯サヤ
状の複合繊維であり、第2図は多芯状に合成重合体繊維
1が、溶剤により溶解流動する合成重合体成分に被覆さ
れた一種の芯サヤ構造の複合繊維を示す。
Figures 1 and 2 are diagrams showing cross sections of composite fibers used in the present invention, and Figure 1 shows a core in which a synthetic polymer fiber 1 is coated with a synthetic polymer component 2 that is dissolved and flowed by a solvent. This is a pod-shaped conjugate fiber, and FIG. 2 shows a type of conjugate fiber with a core-sheath structure in which a multicore synthetic polymer fiber 1 is coated with a synthetic polymer component that is dissolved and flowed by a solvent.

尚上記はほんの1例を示すものであり、要は紡績が容易
な断面形態で合成重合体繊維1と溶解性合成重合体2が
存在する複合繊維であればよい。
The above is just one example, and any composite fiber in which the synthetic polymer fiber 1 and the soluble synthetic polymer 2 exist in a cross-sectional form that is easy to spin may be used.

第3図は第2図の複合繊維に他の繊維3を混紡した糸の
断面図である。
FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of a yarn obtained by blending the composite fiber of FIG. 2 with other fibers 3.

又合成重合体繊維1と溶解性合成重合体2さの比率は5
0〜90:50〜10がよく、特にこの範囲内でも合成
重合体繊維65:溶解性合成重合体35が紡績性にすぐ
れている。
Also, the ratio of synthetic polymer fiber 1 to soluble synthetic polymer 2 is 5.
The ratio of 0 to 90:50 to 10 is good, and even within this range, synthetic polymer fiber 65:soluble synthetic polymer 35 has excellent spinnability.

撚の1時固定は紡績糸に溶解性合成重合体2の成分が5
0〜8%混入していればよい(例えば紡績糸308を紡
出する場合、上記複合繊維で比率60 : 40の繊維
40%吉他繊維60%の混紡で溶解性合成重合体成分1
6%である)。
When the twist is fixed at 1, the component of soluble synthetic polymer 2 is 5% in the spun yarn.
It is sufficient that the content is 0 to 8% (for example, when spinning the spun yarn 308, the ratio of the composite fibers is 60:40, 40% of the fibers are mixed with 60% of the soluble synthetic polymer component, and the soluble synthetic polymer component is 1.
6%).

又溶解性合成重合体の溶解流動にて合成繊維紡績糸条が
糊付と同じ状態になるために糊付不要となり集束性がす
ぐれ、織物のタテ糸、ヨコ糸に使用しても製織性に全く
問題ない。
In addition, due to the dissolution and flow of the soluble synthetic polymer, the synthetic fiber spun yarn becomes in the same state as sizing, so sizing is not required, and it has excellent bundling properties, and has excellent weaving properties even when used for warp and weft yarns of textiles. No problem at all.

しかも織成後タテ糸、ヨコ糸間に発生する交錯圧力によ
って両者が偏平化することが少ないために織糸のクリン
プは天然繊維織物と同様大きくなり、溶解性合成重合体
2を溶剤にて溶出除去するこさによりボリューム感に富
んだクレープ織物が得られる。
Moreover, after weaving, the warp and weft yarns are less likely to be flattened due to interlacing pressure generated between them, so the crimp of the weaving yarns becomes large, similar to that of natural fiber fabrics, and the soluble synthetic polymer 2 is eluted with a solvent. A crepe fabric with a rich sense of volume can be obtained by removing the material.

これを詳細に述べると、ポリビニルアルコール系、ポリ
エチレン系、ポリスチレン系等の水又は簡単な溶剤で溶
解流動を起こす溶解性合成重合体(例えばポリエチレン
系:パークレン、ポリスチレン系、トリクレンなど)と
該液体で溶解流動を起さないポリエステル系、ポリアミ
ド系等の合成重合体とを複合紡糸する。
To explain this in detail, soluble synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene, and polystyrene that dissolve and flow in water or simple solvents (e.g., polyethylene: percrene, polystyrene, trichrene, etc.) and the liquid. Composite spinning with synthetic polymers such as polyester and polyamide that do not cause melt flow.

次いで、延伸−カットして紡績用ステープルにし、該ス
テーブルを用いて他繊維3と混紡、あるいは100%で
紡績する。
Next, it is stretched and cut to make a staple for spinning, and the staple is used to blend it with other fibers 3 or to spin it 100%.

次いで、該紡績糸条に一般的には撚係数に=2以上追撚
を施こし総撚係数5.0以上となし、追撚糸条の溶解性
合成重合体が溶解流動する溶液、例えばポリビニルアル
コール系の場合O〜80℃の温水で浸漬処理後、乾燥を
行ない撚の1時固定を行なう。
Next, the spun yarn is generally additionally twisted to have a twist coefficient of 2 or more to give a total twist coefficient of 5.0 or more, and a solution in which the soluble synthetic polymer of the additionally twisted yarn dissolves and flows, such as polyvinyl alcohol, is added. In the case of a system, after immersion treatment in warm water of 0 to 80°C, drying is performed and the twist is fixed at one time.

このようにして得られた追撚糸条をタテ糸、ヨコ糸、あ
るいはヨコ糸のみで織成する。
The additional twist yarn thus obtained is woven using warp yarns, weft yarns, or only weft yarns.

しかる、後に熱水あるいは溶剤でシボ立てを行ない良質
のシボを有するクレープ織物とする。
Afterwards, the crepe fabric is textured with hot water or a solvent to produce a crepe fabric with good quality texture.

次にこのようにして得られたシボ立て布の溶解性合成重
合体成分の除去を行なうと風合、シボ質、ボリューム感
に富んだクレープ織物が得られる。
Next, by removing the soluble synthetic polymer component from the textured fabric thus obtained, a crepe fabric rich in texture, texture, and volume can be obtained.

なお、上記説明において、撚係数きは、 撚係数に−T//に で表わされる値である。In addition, in the above explanation, the twist coefficient is -T// to twist coefficient This is the value expressed as .

ただし、ここでTは撚数(回/インチ)、Nは紡績糸条
の英式綿番手である。
However, here, T is the number of twists (twists/inch), and N is the English cotton count of the spun yarn.

本発明の紡績糸は毛羽による糸の柔軟性に起因して、シ
ボ質が均整で、シボの深い良好なシボ物が得られる。
Due to the flexibility of the yarn due to fluff, the spun yarn of the present invention has a well-balanced texture and deep grain.

また、ヨリ止めセット性が良好であり、操業性に優れる
In addition, it has good setability to prevent twisting and is excellent in operability.

更に、先ヨリが既にかかっているため、追撚が少なくて
済み、二重よりなどの不均一部が発生することが極めて
少ないので、シボ質はより絹ちりめんに近似する。
Furthermore, since the tip has already been twisted, less additional twisting is required, and non-uniform areas such as double twists are extremely unlikely to occur, so the texture is more similar to silk crepe.

実施例 1 ポリアミド系合成繊維糸条とポリビニルアルコール繊維
糸条とを複合比65:35、断面形態第1図、デニール
2dで複合紡糸−延伸−カットしく繊維長517It7
IL)、ステーブルにする。
Example 1 Polyamide-based synthetic fiber yarn and polyvinyl alcohol fiber yarn were combined at a composite ratio of 65:35, cross-sectional form in Figure 1, denier 2d, and fiber length 517It7.
IL), make it stable.

該ステーブルを用いて撚係数に=3.4で408を紡績
し、該紡績糸に追撚に=4を施こした後、30℃の水で
20分間処理し、これを乾燥したところ、撚の1時固定
が製織に問題ないビリ指数15となった。
Using the stable, 408 was spun with a twist coefficient of 3.4, and the spun yarn was subjected to an additional twist of 4, and then treated with water at 30°C for 20 minutes and dried. When the twist was fixed at 1 o'clock, the twist index was 15, which is not a problem for weaving.

この追撚糸条をヨコ糸に用いて楊柳クレープを織成後、
30℃の水から80℃まで昇温しなからシボ立て処理を
行ないひきつづき160℃の乾熱でシボのセットを行な
った後にポリビニルアルコール繊維糸条を熱水で完全に
除去した所、シボ質、風合い、ボリューム感共に富んだ
楊柳クレープ織物が得られた。
After weaving willow crepe using this extra-twisted thread as the weft thread,
After raising the temperature from water at 30°C to 80°C, the grain was set, and then the grain was set using dry heat at 160°C, and then the polyvinyl alcohol fiber threads were completely removed with hot water. A willow crepe fabric with rich texture and volume was obtained.

実施例 2 ポリエステル系繊維とポリスチレンとを複合比6:4、
断面を第2図の如くなるように、デニールは3dで複合
紡糸−延伸−カットしく繊維長51mm)、ステーブル
とする。
Example 2 Composite ratio of polyester fiber and polystyrene was 6:4,
The cross-section is as shown in Fig. 2, the denier is 3D, the fiber length is 51 mm (combined spinning, drawing and cutting), and the fiber is stable.

該ステーブルを用いて撚係数に=3.2で248を紡績
し、該紡績糸に追撚に=4.5を施こした後、ベンシー
ルアルコール3%溶液で30分間処理したところ撚の1
時固定が製織に問題ないビリ指数10となった。
Using this stable, 248 was spun with a twist coefficient of =3.2, and the spun yarn was subjected to additional twisting of =4.5, and then treated with a 3% solution of benzyl alcohol for 30 minutes. 1
When the time was fixed, the vibration index was 10, which is not a problem for weaving.

この追撚糸条をヨコ糸に用いて2越交互に打込み織成後
95℃の熱水でシボ立て処理を行ない、引続き180℃
の乾熱で仕上セットを行なった後ポリスチレンをトリク
レンで処理して除去したところ、シボ質、風合共にすぐ
れたクレープ織物が得られた。
This extra-twisted yarn is used as a weft yarn, and after weaving is carried out in alternating two-way weaving, it is embossed with hot water at 95°C, and then at 180°C.
After finishing setting with dry heat, the polystyrene was removed by treatment with trichlene, and a crepe fabric with excellent texture and texture was obtained.

実施例 3 実施例2の複合繊維とポリエステル系繊維2d×51間
を50:50で混紡して撚係数に=3.2で3O8を紡
績し、該紡績糸に追撚に=4.0を施こした後、ベンシ
ールアルコール3%溶液で40分間処理し撚固定を行な
った。
Example 3 The composite fiber of Example 2 and polyester fiber 2d x 51 were mixed at a ratio of 50:50, and 3O8 was spun with a twist coefficient of 3.2, and the spun yarn was given an additional twist of 4.0. After this, it was treated with a 3% benzyl alcohol solution for 40 minutes to fix the twist.

この追撚糸条をタテ、ヨコ糸共にSヨリ、Zヨリを1越
交互にしてジョーゼットクレープを織成し、織成後95
℃の熱水でシボ立て処理を行ない、次いで170℃の乾
熱で織物構造をセットした後にトリクレンでポリスチレ
ンを除去したところ、風合、ボリューム、シボ共にすぐ
れたジョーゼットクレープが得られた。
This additionally twisted yarn is woven into a georgette crepe by alternating the S twist and the Z twist for both the warp and weft yarns, and after weaving, the
A georgette crepe with excellent texture, volume, and grain was obtained by carrying out a graining treatment with hot water at 170 °C, then setting the woven structure with dry heat at 170 °C, and removing the polystyrene with trichlene.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of drawings]

第1図、第2図は本発明に使用する複合繊維の断面図で
ある。 第3図は本発明複合繊維と他繊維とを混紡した断面図で
ある。 1:溶剤により溶解流動を起こさない合成重合体、2:
溶剤により溶解流動を起こす合成重合体、3:混紡繊維
FIGS. 1 and 2 are cross-sectional views of composite fibers used in the present invention. FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of a blend of the composite fiber of the present invention and other fibers. 1: Synthetic polymer that does not cause dissolution and flow due to solvent, 2:
Synthetic polymer that dissolves and flows with a solvent. 3: Blended fiber.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 1 溶剤により溶解、流動を起こす合成重合体と該溶剤
により溶解、流動を起こさない合成重合体とを複合紡糸
して得られたステーブル繊維よりなる紡績糸あるいは該
ステーブル繊維と他の繊維との混紡紡績糸とした後、総
撚係数が5.0以上となるように追撚を施して強撚紡績
糸となし、しかる後、該強撚の状態で前記溶剤により処
理し溶解、流動を起こす合成重合体を糸条表面に溶解流
動させて撚止を行なうことを特徴とするクレープ織物用
紡績糸の製造方法。
1. A spun yarn made of stable fibers obtained by composite spinning a synthetic polymer that dissolves and flows in a solvent and a synthetic polymer that does not dissolve and flow in a solvent, or a yarn made of stable fibers and other fibers. After making a blended spun yarn of 1. A method for producing spun yarn for crepe textiles, characterized in that twisting is achieved by dissolving and flowing a synthetic polymer on the yarn surface.
JP49059309A 1974-05-28 1974-05-28 Manufacturing method of yarn for crepe textiles Expired JPS593576B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP49059309A JPS593576B2 (en) 1974-05-28 1974-05-28 Manufacturing method of yarn for crepe textiles

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP49059309A JPS593576B2 (en) 1974-05-28 1974-05-28 Manufacturing method of yarn for crepe textiles

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS50152049A JPS50152049A (en) 1975-12-06
JPS593576B2 true JPS593576B2 (en) 1984-01-25

Family

ID=13109633

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP49059309A Expired JPS593576B2 (en) 1974-05-28 1974-05-28 Manufacturing method of yarn for crepe textiles

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS593576B2 (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS61631A (en) * 1984-06-12 1986-01-06 東洋紡績株式会社 Highly creped spun yarn

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5083547A (en) * 1973-11-29 1975-07-05

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5083547A (en) * 1973-11-29 1975-07-05

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS50152049A (en) 1975-12-06

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