JPH11229278A - Production of uneven-tone cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare an uneven-tone cloth having natural feeling and soft touch by applying a resin liquid comprising mainly an aqueous emulsion resin and a pigment on a surface of a fiber cloth, drying the cloth and then subjecting the coated surface to a rubbing treatment in water or in a wet state. SOLUTION: A resin liquid comprising mainly an acrylic resin of an aqueous emulsion type and a pigment is applied on a surface of a fiber cloth of polyester or the like with a knife coater or the like in the range of 3-30 g/m<2> , preferably 5-25 g/m<2> in terms of dry weight, and subsequently subjecting the cloth to a drying treatment under dry heat at 70-130 deg.C to form a resin membrane. Subsequently, the coated surface is subjected to a rubbing treatment in water or in a wet state using a wet sanding machine or the like, and subsequently soaped to obtain the objective homogeneous uneven-tone cloth.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a high-quality garment fabric having a natural appearance, a uniform appearance of a stone wash-like spot, and a soft and comfortable feel.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art After sanding, such as emery napping, to a long fiber cloth using an ultrafine yarn or a yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 2 denier class, a resin containing mainly an aqueous emulsion resin and a pigment is formed on the surface thereof. Dry-coating is performed using the solution, and then, using a liquid jet dyeing machine or the like, washing with a rope is performed, and a part of the pigment on the surface of the fabric is dropped off to form a spot-like spot in a stone wash. In this method, the pigment does not adhere uniformly to the rope wrinkles or the pigment does not fall off uniformly, especially when the rope is washed with a jet dyeing machine. , It was difficult to obtain a uniform uneven surface feeling. Furthermore, there is a tendency for hue differences to occur between batches, and the current situation is that inefficient operations are being performed while incorporating many corrections. In order to make up for these drawbacks, there are examples of attempts to use a continuous refining machine such as an open soaper to perform cleaning. In this case, since the batch type is not used, the operation efficiency is good and there is no color difference between batches. Although it is possible to obtain a uniform surface quality, it is not possible to obtain a natural stone-wash-like mottling and a soft touch with a good feel, and a good-quality product has not been obtained.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of such circumstances, and has a natural appearance of a uniform stone wash-like spotted morphology, and a soft and very soft wind. It is an object of the present invention to obtain a high-quality clothing fabric having a combination.

[0004]

The present invention attains the above object and has the following constitution. That is, the present invention provides a method of coating a surface of a fiber fabric with a resin solution mainly composed of an aqueous emulsion resin and a pigment, drying the coated solution, rubbing the coated surface in water or in a wet state by a continuous spreading method, and thereafter, A method for producing a uniform patch-like fabric characterized by performing a soaping treatment ".

[0005]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail.
Examples of the fiber cloth used in the present invention include polyamide synthetic fibers such as nylon 6 and nylon 66, polyester synthetic fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyacrylonitrile synthetic fibers, polyvinyl alcohol synthetic fibers, and triacetate. A woven fabric, a knitted fabric, a nonwoven fabric, or the like made of a semi-synthetic fiber or a mixed fiber of nylon / cotton, polyester / cotton, and the like can be given. In the present invention, first, a resin solution mainly containing an aqueous emulsion resin and a pigment is applied onto the above-mentioned fiber cloth,
A film is formed by a so-called dry coating method in which a resin film is formed by drying.

There is no limitation on the aqueous emulsion resin used here, and generally commercially available resins for fiber processing can be used. Generally, acrylic resin or polyurethane resin is often used. It is preferable to use an acrylic resin which is very low cost.
An appropriate amount of a pigment having a target hue is added to the above-mentioned aqueous emulsion resin to prepare a coating resin solution uniformly dispersed in the aqueous emulsion resin. There is no limitation on the pigment used here, and generally a commercially available pigment for coloring fibers may be used, and the amount used may be selected in an amount suitable for a target hue.

[0007] The fabric is coated with the resin solution containing the pigment, and the coating may be appropriately performed using a knife coater, a comma coater, a reverse coater, or the like.
It is most suitable to use a knife coater. The application amount of the resin solution may be adjusted so that the dry resin film weight is in the range of 3 to 30 g / m ² . Preferably 5
25 g / m ² is good. If the dry resin film weight is less than 3 g / m ² , it is difficult to obtain a good stone-washed appearance, which is not preferable. Conversely, when the dry resin film weight is 30
If it exceeds g / m ² , the hand becomes hard and good appearance cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. The coated fabric thus obtained is dried at a dry heat of 70 to 130 ° C. to form a resin film.

Next, in the present invention, the coated surface obtained by the above method is subjected to a rubbing treatment on the coated surface in a continuous manner in water or in a wet state. For the rubbing treatment, a wet sanding machine, an open soaper combined with a special vibro, a jet dyeing machine combined with a special nozzle, a washer combined with a ceramic ball and a pumice ball, and the like can be generally considered. When the rubbing treatment is performed by adopting the method, a very good effect of the present invention can be obtained. The reason is that the use of a wet sanding machine makes it possible to simultaneously obtain a soft, soft and good texture and a uniform mottled appearance, and to prevent reattachment of pigments and resins that have fallen off by sanding. Because you can. For example, when the above-mentioned open viper combined with special vibro is used, uniformity is obtained, but it is difficult to obtain a good feeling and appearance. Hand is obtained, but uniform spot appearance is not obtained. Further, when a ceramic ball / pumice ball combined washer is used, only a small amount of processing can be performed, and a hue difference easily occurs between batches, so that a uniform appearance cannot be obtained.

In the present invention, the coated surface is subjected to continuous wet rubbing in the form of a spread cloth. This is not only for the purpose of improving the feeling but also for the purpose of simultaneously obtaining a uniform appearance with a spotted pattern. This is the method set in. According to this method, it is relatively easy to remove pigments, resin, fluff, etc., which fall off at the time of rubbing, it is possible to prevent re-adhesion of dirt, and a stable operation can be achieved. From the above, the processing steps can be simplified at the same time, so that the processing can be performed at lower cost than in the prior art, and a high-quality cloth can be obtained. The conventional technology is based on the idea of performing a rubbing treatment before coating, adjusting the texture, and trying to obtain a mottled appearance by washing after coating. It can be obtained, but the resin and pigment on the fabric surface cannot be uniformly removed only by washing, and it is difficult to obtain a good spot-like appearance due to the increased number of combined uses such as correction processing. there were.

Next, in the present invention, the above-mentioned fiber cloth is subjected to a soaping treatment. In the case of the soaping treatment, a continuous spreading method such as softer and open soaper or a wince or liquid jet dyeing machine may be employed, and the treatment may be performed by a conventionally known method. It is suitable for the method of the present invention because it can be processed, and the risk of reattachment of pigments, resins and the like is reduced and stable operation is easy. For the subsequent finishing, the finishing may be performed by using a conventionally known finishing method according to the purpose. The fiber cloth used in the present invention may be a base cloth which has been dyed or rubbed such as ground dyeing before coating with a resin solution.

[0011]

After coating an appropriate amount of a water-based emulsion resin containing a pigment on the surface of a fiber cloth and rubbing the coated surface in a wet state, fluff of an emery nap appears and the surface layer of the resin film containing the pigment uniformly is suitable. In addition, the resin that has fallen off due to underwater or wet-like rubbing is not removed and re-attached. As a result, it has a soft, good-touch feel and uniform stone wash-like luxury. A certain patchy appearance can be obtained. Further, according to the method of the present invention, the processing steps can be simplified, and the processing cost can be rationalized and the stable operation can be performed.

[0012]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. Measurement and evaluation of the performance of the fabric in the examples were performed by the following methods. (1) Hand feeling A sensory test was conducted by handling, and
A rating was given on a scale. : Soft and good texture △: Soft but slightly poor texture ×: No softness and poor texture

(2) Appearance Spots Morphology Based on a silk stonewashed cloth, the spots are visually observed and the following three grades are relatively evaluated. : Good (spotted shape similar to a natural stonewashed product of silk) △: Slightly poor (spotted shape with a little lack of natural feeling) ×: Poor (no natural feeling, weak spotted pattern) Uniform A 3m full width cloth is spread on a flat board, the uniformity of the spots is visually observed, and the following three grades are relatively evaluated. ：: Good (same morphological spots are observed in a well-balanced manner) △: Slightly poor (some morphological spots are observed) ×: Bad (uneven surface feeling mixed with morphological spots)

EXAMPLE 1 A polyester obtained by copolymerizing 4.5 mol% of 2,2-bis [4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane and 5 mol% of isophthalic acid with a polyester composed of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid. Using the chips, the fibers were spun and drawn in a usual manner to obtain a polyester fiber of 30 denier / 12 filaments. The obtained polyester fiber had a maximum thermal stress of 0.5 g / denier and a hot water shrinkage of 27%. This polyester fiber and a normal polyester raw yarn 55 denier / 182 filament were aligned and subjected to an entanglement treatment to obtain an entangled yarn having the number of entanglements of 65 / m. This entangled yarn is used for warp and weft, and the warp density is 120 yarns / inch.
A plain weave having a weft density of 75 yarns / inch was woven. After this,
After scouring by a usual method, a hot water treatment was performed at a temperature of 130 ° C. for a time of 20 minutes, and the warp density was 156 yarns / inch and the weft density was 92%.
A plain fabric of 1 inch / inch was obtained, followed by presetting at a temperature of 190 ° C. and a time of 20 seconds at an overfeed rate of 0% of warp and weft to obtain a base fabric for coating.

Next, an acrylic emulsion resin solution having the composition shown in the following formula 1 and having a solid content of 50% was applied to the surface of the cloth using a knife coater at a coating amount of 15 g / m 2.
² (7.5 g / m ² dry resin film weight)
Drying was performed at 3 ° C. for 3 minutes to obtain a coated fabric. Formulation 1 Boncoat AC-503 100 parts (Acrylic emulsion resin manufactured by Dainippon Ink and Chemicals, Inc.) Becamine PM-N 6 parts (Dainippon Ink and Chemicals, Inc., cross-linking agent) Ryudye Black RC 4 parts (Dainippon Pigment manufactured by Ink Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)

Next, the obtained coated fabric was subjected to wet sanding treatment in a spread form under the following wet sanding condition 1, dehydrated, and dried at 100 ° C. for 3 minutes. Wet sanding condition 1 Model: Multiple roll type wet sanding machine (M / C with ceramic scraping roll, manufactured by Shanto Iron Works Co., Ltd.) Wet treatment layer temperature: 50 ° C Ceramic scraping roll diameter: 120 φmm Number of ceramic scraping rolls: 4 Ceramics Scratch roll rotation speed: 600 m / min Contact surface: medium condition Cloth speed: 10 m / min Number of treatments: once

Thereafter, using an open soaper (manufactured by Uenoyama Kiko Co., Ltd.), a soaping treatment was carried out at 80 ° C. for 3 minutes at 1 g / liter of Sunmole FL (manufactured by Nika Chemical Co., Ltd., nonionic surfactant). After drying at 100 ° C. for 3 minutes, 1% owf of Sunstat ES-11 (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Co., Ltd., antistatic agent for synthetic fiber) was applied using a resin processing machine manufactured by Uenoyama Kiko Co., Ltd. After drying at 100 ° C. for 3 minutes, a final set was performed at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds with a pin tenter (a heat setter manufactured by Ichikin Industry Co., Ltd.) to obtain a processed fabric of the present invention.

For comparison with the present invention, a processed fabric for comparison (Comparative Example 1) was obtained in exactly the same manner as in this example except that the wet rubbing treatment was omitted in this example. Further, for comparison between the present invention and the conventional method, the same woven fabric as that used in this example was subjected to paper grain size adjustment using an emery napping machine (manufactured by Wakayama Iron Works Co., Ltd.) before coating.
00, emery roller rotation speed 1000 rpm, cloth speed 10
A rubbing treatment was performed under the conditions of m / min, and a processed fabric for comparison (Comparative Example 2) was obtained in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that the wet rubbing treatment in this example was omitted. Furthermore, for the purpose of comparison with the present invention, it was attempted to obtain a processed fabric for comparison in exactly the same manner as in this example, except that in this example, dry rubbing with an emery napping machine was performed instead of wet rubbing. However, the emery paper was clogged during dry rubbing, and the rubbing process could not be continued.

The performance of the present invention and the processed fabric for comparison were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0020]

[Table 1]

As is evident from Table 1, the processed fabric obtained by the method of the present invention has a natural appearance of a uniform stone-wash-like spotted appearance, and a soft and comfortable texture. You can see that.

Example 2 In the above-mentioned Example 1, the soaping treatment was carried out at 80 ° C. at 80 ° C. with Sungol FL 1 g / liter using a liquid dyeing machine (Circular, manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) instead of the open soaper. A processed woven fabric of the present invention was obtained in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that the processing was performed for 1 minute.

For comparison between the present invention and the conventional method, the same fabric as that used in the present embodiment was subjected to a rubbing treatment with an emery napping machine under the same conditions as in Comparative Example 2 before coating. A processed fabric for comparison (Comparative Example 3) was obtained by exactly the same method as in Example 2 except that the wet rubbing treatment in the example was omitted. For comparison with the present invention, a processed fabric for comparison (Comparative Example 4) was obtained in exactly the same manner as in this example except that the wet rubbing treatment was omitted in this example.

The performances of the present invention and the comparative patch fabric were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 2.

[0025]

[Table 2]

As is clear from Table 2, the patch-like woven fabric manufactured by the method of the present invention has a uniform appearance of a stone wash-like patch having a natural feeling, a soft appearance, and a soft feel. You can see that there is.

Example 3 Using the same yarn as the entangled yarn used in Example 1 above,
An interlock knitted fabric (having a basis weight of 250 g / m ² ) was knitted with a double knit circular knitting machine LPJ-H (33 inches × 28 gauge, manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd.). Next, after scouring by a usual method, a hot water treatment was performed at a temperature of 130 ° C. for a time of 20 minutes to obtain a knitted fabric having a small elasticity with a basis weight of 320 g / m ² .
Subsequently, a knit base fabric for coating was prepared by presetting at a temperature of 190 ° C. and a time of 20 seconds at an overfeed rate of 0% in both the process and the weft. Next, using the treatment liquid of Formulation 1 used in Example 1, coating was performed at a coating amount of 18 g / m ² (dry resin film weight: 9.0 g / m ² ), and drying was performed at 100 ° C. for 4 minutes. Then, a coated knitted fabric was obtained. Thereafter, the processes after the wet sanding process were performed in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a processed knitted fabric of the present invention.

For comparison between the present invention and the conventional method, the same knitted fabric as that used in this example was subjected to a rubbing treatment with an emery napping machine under the same conditions as in Comparative Example 2 before coating. A knitted fabric for comparison (Comparative Example 5) was obtained in exactly the same manner as in Example 3 except that the wet rubbing treatment in this example was omitted.

The performance of the present invention and the knitted fabric for comparison were evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 3.

[0030]

[Table 3]

As is clear from Table 3, the patch-like knitted fabric produced by the method of the present invention has a uniform appearance of a stone-wash-like patch having a natural feeling, and a soft and comfortable texture. You can see that there is.

[0032]

According to the present invention, it is possible to produce a high-quality garment fabric having a natural appearance and a uniform appearance of a stone wash-like spot, and a soft and comfortable feel. Furthermore, the method of the present invention can eliminate the disadvantage that it is extremely difficult to operate stably than before, and at the same time, does not require the step of correcting the mottling required by the conventional method. As a result, the cost can be reduced and conventional operation can be performed stably. The processed fabric obtained by the method of the present invention is a material suitable for women's coats, casual clothing, and the like.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A surface of a fiber cloth is coated with a resin solution mainly composed of an aqueous emulsion resin and a pigment, and after drying, the coated surface is rubbed in water or in a wet state by a continuous spreading method, and then soaped. A method for producing a uniform patch-like fabric, characterized by performing a treatment.