JPH10331017A - Cutting of fabric having pattern with automatic cutting machine - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To accurately and efficiently superimpose fabrics and cut the superimposed fabrics with an automatic cutting machine automatically controlled with a computer, capable of carrying out the pattern matching in a rough cutting stage and microadjustment of directional properties for each part when cutting the fabrics having a pattern into a specific pattern fabric while arranging the pattern at a specific position. SOLUTION: When fabrics 14 having a pattern are cut into a specific pattern fabric 1 while arranging the pattern at a specific position, an automatic cutting machine automatically controlled with a computer is used to superimpose the fabrics 14 and cut the superimposed fabrics 14. The automatic cutting machine is previously used to match the position of the pattern in the topmost layer, superimpose the fabrics 14 of a size larger than that of a pattern fabric 1 and cut the superimposed fabrics 14. After the cutting, each cut fabric 14 is precisely replaced upon another for each part in order to correct the dispersion in the pattern and the directional properties are then accurately adjusted for each part. The pattern position is subsequently accurately corrected and the fabrics 14 are superimposed and cut with the regular pattern fabric 1 by the automatic cutting machine.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to the sewing industry.
The present invention relates to a method for cutting a cloth having a pattern by an automatic cutting machine, in which a specific pattern on a cloth is arranged at a specific position on a specific mold and cut accurately and efficiently.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In order to sew clothes, it is necessary to cut a cloth according to a pattern and then sew the cloth. However, it is better to arrange the patterns in order to take out the pattern more efficiently than the cloth. That had to depend on skilled craftsmen. In recent years, the technology to efficiently arrange molds using a computer has been established, and it has come to be cut accurately by an automatic cutting machine using data for numerical control obtained from it. . In mass production factories, it is common to automatically cut a large number of fabrics in layers.

[0003] This technique is also applied to the case where the fabric has a pattern. However, the pattern created on the fabric is unstable in each of the steps of weaving, scouring, dyeing and rearranging. The technology for cutting is well established. That is, the optional stop function of the automatic cutting machine is set at the position where the pattern on the mold should be, the machine is stopped, and the pattern cutting of the pattern is realized by finely adjusting the position of the pattern on the fabric. However, since it does not correct the variation of the second and subsequent patterns, it is limited to one-sheet cutting.

As described above, when using an automatic cutting machine, only one sheet can be cut. However, manual cutting has long been performed repeatedly. In the manual operation, the material is cut in advance to a size larger than that of the pattern, and then the sheets are re-stacked by a needle-punching operation in order to align the patterns, and then cut into a regular pattern. Here, cutting larger is referred to as rough cutting, and re-cutting to a regular pattern after aligning the patterns is referred to as double cutting. However, automatic cutting machines have not been able to align the patterns by re-stapling, and have been abandoned. However, from the viewpoint of cutting efficiency, there is a very strong demand that the pattern-matched products be repeatedly cut by an automatic cutting machine.

[0005]

Unlike the machine work, the error range of the standard value of the fabric is surprisingly large. In the case of a fabric having a pattern, it is common that a manufacturer standard has an error of 2%, and in the case of a fabric width of 150 cm, it actually reaches 3 cm. When the pattern pitch is about 1.5 cm, there is actually an error equivalent to two patterns on the near side and on the far side, and this is taken as a matter of course. Therefore, in the practice of pattern matching,
It is not an exaggeration to say that it is all about manually correcting this error, and it seems that automatic cutting has already been realized if there is another digit of accuracy.

[0006] While such a large error still exists,
Up to now, sewing has been performed, but it goes without saying that there is an error in a product made from a material having an error, and it is not possible to make a completely identical product. However, the quality of pattern matching required for clothing requires symmetry of the left and right patterns or periodicity of pattern repetition in one piece of clothing, and each piece of clothing can be different. . Normally, it is considered that there is no deviation in the size of the first piece (about 2 m in the jacket), so if you match the pattern of the reference position for each part, the quality in the first piece will be maintained Clothing has been manufactured without any problem in practical use.

Although there may be no problem with the quality of clothes, such work is a craftsmanship and cannot be called industrial. In the standard of the cloth having the pattern as described above, there is an error corresponding to two or more patterns at a severe time,
With such a large error, pattern matching at the rough trimming stage becomes important. However, the current computer system does not have a pattern matching function at the rough trimming stage.At the double trimming stage, at present, we are only focusing on accurate pattern alignment with the optional stop function, Although it is assumed that the direction is correct, if the cutting is actually performed twice, the direction of the parts is slightly different for each part, and it is difficult to guarantee the accuracy. Based on the above points, the present invention enables pattern matching at the rough cutting stage and also allows fine adjustment of the direction of each part, and enables accurate and efficient overlap cutting by an automatic cutting machine automatically controlled by a computer. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method of cutting a cloth having a pattern by an automatic cutting machine.

[0008]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the method of the present invention is automatically controlled by a computer when cutting a cloth having a pattern into a specific pattern while arranging the pattern at a specific position. It is characterized by using an automatic cutting machine to overlap and cut, using the automatic cutting machine to adjust the top layer pattern position in advance and making a large overlap and cutting, and parts to correct pattern variations after cutting. After precisely re-stacking each time, and then adjusting the direction accurately for each part,
The present invention is characterized in that the pattern position is accurately corrected by an automatic cutting machine and the sheet is overlapped and cut on a regular pattern.

[0009] Generally, when placing a pattern created with an arbitrary design on a patterned fabric using a computer,
The computer creates a line that is regarded as a pattern on the fabric at regular intervals, and arranges a pattern line on the mold (called a pattern matching line) or a point on the pattern line (called a pattern matching point) on the pattern on the fabric. I do. The layout diagram created at this time is called a marker, and the layout work is called marking. If the pattern of the fabric is unstable, it is possible to create a marker for each raw sheet by actually measuring the pattern of the received raw sheet, but marking is performed with the minimum value of the fluctuation range, and the pattern fluctuation of the raw sheet is performed. It is reasonable to perform cutting while correcting the pattern position according to.

As described above, the standard of fabric having a pattern is 2% according to the manufacturer's guarantee (about 3% for a fabric having a fabric width of 150 cm).
cm) is inevitable, but it is generally relatively stable within one turn (usually 50 m) wound as a piece of cloth, and may be considered to be within 1 cm. Therefore,
If it is limited to working within one roll (cutting to one roll is referred to as rebound), it is possible to work within a pattern deviation of up to 1 cm. That is,
If the pattern deviation is assumed to be ± 5 mm and the margin for double cutting is assumed to be 5 mm, it is considered that rough cutting can be performed by adding a flesh amount of 10 mm to the entire circumference, and overlapping cutting can be performed by an automatic cutting machine.

However, since an error of up to 3 cm may occur between different cloths, not only the different cloths cannot be superimposed, but also the correction of the cutting position at the time of rough cutting must be carried out every time the cloths change. Not be. However, even if the pattern position is corrected in this way, only the top of the pattern can be obtained with the trimmed sheet, and the second and subsequent sheets have an error of ± 5 mm. The work procedure of aligning the pattern after cutting and cutting twice must be followed.

[0012] The rough trimming is basically made by reworking, but it is also possible in principle to use a plurality of fabrics. In that case, the pattern deviation of all the cloths to be used may be measured, and a flesh amount of (maximum value of pattern deviation / 2) +5 mm may be applied to the entire circumference and rough-cut. Such work can be performed efficiently when the degree of pattern deviation is small, but when the pattern deviation is large, waste of raw material increases. In addition, in the part to which the adhesive interlining is bonded, it is necessary to add an amount corresponding to half of the heat shrinkage as a flesh amount.

At present, it is possible to insert a pattern slightly larger than a stamped pattern at the time of marking by a computer. Blocking is called a vertical direction (longitudinal direction of the cloth, X axis) and a horizontal direction (width direction of the cloth, A certain thickness can be applied to the (Y-axis). If this function is used, the above-mentioned fleshing and rough cutting can be realized by an automatic cutting machine. In addition, since rough cutting is based on the premise that cutting is performed again to a regular mold after performing some processing, the defect that ignores all the internal information attached to the mold and limits it to only the information of the fleshed out shape There is. For this reason, at the rough cutting stage, the function of the pattern matching point cannot be used by the automatic cutting machine. In view of the above, an object of the present invention is to provide a method for performing rough cutting while matching a pattern by using an automatic cutting machine when layering and cutting a patterned fabric.

[0014]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The method of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a process chart showing an embodiment of the method of the present invention. The present invention requires that the pattern position be corrected at the rough bleeding step first, and provides a pattern position alignment method to verify this. Normally, in order to perform pattern alignment, a pattern matching line 2 (or pattern matching point) is set on the target mold base 1, but since the internal information on the mold base 1 is ignored in the rough trimming stage, the mold is set. It is necessary to define a pattern position reference outside the ground 1, and a pointer piece 6 for assisting pattern position alignment was created and used. The pointer piece 6 can be of any shape, but in the present invention, a boat shape of 3 mm in size is used, and a pattern matching line 16 is arranged at the center of the vertical cross, and a pattern matching point is provided at the intersection (optional stop). Set 17 The cross-shaped pattern matching line 16 is preferably as long as circumstances permit, and the present invention uses a line that is 2-3 cm long and protrudes from the main body of the pointer piece 6.

At the stage of creating a target marker,
The pointer piece 6 is arranged near the pattern matching line 2 of the pattern 1 for each pattern 1 to be patterned. In the case of the lattice pattern, it is preferable to select a point which is substantially evenly separated from the pattern matching line of each horizontal and horizontal and is adjacent to the pattern 1. The rough-cut marker thus created must be cut as a pair of the pointer piece 6 and the target pattern 1 at the time of automatic cutting. That is, it is necessary to first stop the pointer piece 6 to perform positioning and then cut the target mold 1 continuously.

Therefore, it is necessary to confirm the cutting order before performing automatic cutting, and to edit the order as necessary. When editing, pointer piece 6
It is preferable that only the pattern matching point 17 is made effective so that the pointer piece 6 itself is not cut. Such an editing tool is preferably provided by a computer maker. However, if the user is familiar with the structure of the cutting data, the editing tool can be edited using a text editor attached to an OS or the like. Also, as a major feature that the pointer piece should have, only the function of a pattern matching point (optional stop) is required, and there is no need to actually cut it.

In the case where the rough cutting is repeated, the uppermost handle is aligned with the optional stop 17 of the pointer piece 6, but the position of the pointer piece 6 is adjusted.
An error of ± 5 mm cannot be avoided for the first and subsequent sheets. For this reason, prior to the second trimming, the pattern is aligned by using a tool with two needles (two for horizontal and vertical in the case of a lattice pattern) with needles stuck at both ends of the target pattern. , Then cut into regular molds. Immediately before the stapling operation, heat bonding of the adhesive interlining may be performed to enhance the form stability of the part, and in this case, correction of heat shrinkage will also be performed in the stapling operation . By such a stapling operation, it is possible to guarantee the coincidence of the pattern positions for all the overlaps, and it is possible to perform the overlap cutting by the automatic cutting machine in the next step.

Next, in pattern matching cutting (double cutting) by an automatic cutting machine, the position of the pattern is accurately adjusted by the optional stop 9, but it is also important to adjust the directionality of each part at the same time. If the direction of the parts is distorted, it will be necessary to strictly warn because the pattern will be misaligned at the hem and shoulder of the product, and it is extremely important to fine-tune the direction for each part, but the current automatic The cutting machine lacks this function, and in order to solve this defect, the present invention requires that the direction of the parts be precisely adjusted for each part in the twice trimming stage, so that the parallel line 13 is drawn. 1 shows a method of using a permeable paper 10 which has been used.

The parts whose patterns have been aligned by stitching are arranged on the marker for each part in principle. At this time, the directionality to be matched is the pattern line drawn in the parts on the marker. When arranging the part, the pattern line is hidden by the part, so you can not work, so
It is preferable that the extension line 12 is drawn using a pencil or the like in advance, and then arranged while checking the pattern line. Extending the pattern line in this manner is the basis for ensuring the directionality of the parts. Alternatively, the air-permeable paper 10 may be extended in a direction parallel to the pattern line.
If a plurality of parallel lines 13 are drawn, there is no practical problem.

That is, the optional stop of the automatic cutting machine is originally a function for fine adjustment of the cutting position.
Even if the parallel movement of a set amount does not interfere with the cutting function, even if the direction of the parts is aligned with the appropriately drawn parallel line, simple translation is performed when aligning with the optional stop This has no effect on the cutting function itself. This method is more convenient because it is not necessary to draw an extension. If the interval between the parallel lines drawn at this time is a pattern pitch, it represents the original pattern matching marker, but a random parallel line drawn completely properly does not matter.

The present invention employs equidistant parallel lines having a pitch of 2 to 4 cm in consideration of workability. However, it is significant that the lines are parallel to the pattern lines, and any interval may be used. is there. The method for drawing parallel lines is a task that a computer is best at, and any method can be selected. However, in the present invention, a pattern with parallel lines is registered and used. At this time, it is desirable to use air-permeable paper for the marker paper that draws parallel lines. The automatic cutting machine used for lap cutting has a structure in which a vacuum pump and a polyethylene film cover are used to fix the fabric by suction, and the marker paper is used to firmly fix the parts. Is an important factor, and it is convenient to use paper having air permeability.

In general, in an automatic cutting machine that performs overlap cutting, a cloth is overlaid and cut on kraft paper having a large number of holes. In the present invention, however, parallel cutting is performed in order to determine the direction of the clothing parts of the pattern to be arranged. The feature is that it draws a line, and it does not make use of perforated paper. In addition, in the figure, 3 is an outer peripheral line of a mold base, 4 is an outer peripheral line of a flesh, 5 is a knife of an automatic cutting machine,
9 is an optional stop point on the mold ground, 14 is a fabric, and 15 is a pattern line of the fabric.

Next, specific embodiments of the present invention will be described. Embodiment (I) Apparel CAD system AM5 manufactured by GGT USA
Using a mold and an automatic cutting machine S93HPC, a pattern-matched cutting of a striped jacket was performed. At the rough trimming stage, a 1 cm thickening amount was applied to all of the pattern matching parts. The data of the optional stop at the handle position was added to the cutting data for rough cutting with a 3 mm-sized boat-shaped pointer piece, and the rough cutting was actually performed by an automatic cutting machine. The raw material used was a raw material having a width variation of 148 to 151 cm, and after being stretched and superimposed on each sheet, all were roughly cut with cutting data of 148 cm width. Since the pattern position was corrected by the pointer piece, the pattern variation after rough cutting was about ± 3 mm, and although there was such a large variation in the raw material, there was no defect that was a problem in the subsequent steps. The roughly cut parts were patterned by needle punching, placed on air-permeable paper with parallel lines at 2 cm intervals, and cut twice by an automatic cutter. Direction is secured by parallel lines, and the pattern position is corrected by the optional stop attached to the mold base, so high-quality cut products can be obtained, and no problems in sewing are recognized. Was. The air permeability of the breathable paper used is 4 seconds (JIS P
8117 method; air permeability of ordinary paper is about 30 seconds).

Embodiment (II) In the same cutting operation as in the above embodiment (I), when arranging parts in the twice trimming stage, extend the pattern line of the parts drawn on the breathable paper with a red pencil and extend. We adjusted the direction by relying on the line. The cut material was of high quality and no problems were found in sewing.

Comparative Example (I) In the same cutting operation as in Example (I), since the pointer piece was not used when performing the rough cutting, the pattern position could not be adjusted, and the variation in the cloth width was taken into consideration. 14
Two types of markers of 8.5 cm and 150.5 cm were prepared, and a marker having an approximate width was used. Although the pattern accuracy at the rough cutting stage was different for each counter, there was a deviation of ± 1 cm or more, and the result directly reflected the variation in the cloth width for each counter. In order to forcibly correct such a pattern shift, the operation was stopped because a cut off (deformation) at the twice trimming and a shortage of a seam allowance at a sewing stage were expected.

(II) When arranging parts in the trimming stage twice in the same cutting operation as in Example (I), the parts were arranged by relying on the outlines of the parts drawn on the breathable paper. The trimmed material is corrected for the handle position with the shoulder and it is 2-3 at the hem position
mm, and the left and right sides were in opposite directions, resulting in an unacceptable imbalance (5 mm) when comparing the left and right side pockets.
This level of imbalance can re-establish the value of the product by adding some artistic correction work, but the productivity drops to less than one-third and the profitability of the industry increases greatly. The result was a departure.

[0027]

According to the present invention, by using a pointer piece, it is possible to perform pattern matching at the time of rough cutting, and it is possible to fine-tune the direction of each part even at the time of double cutting, so that accurate automatic Cutting with a cutting machine becomes possible, and there is no misalignment at the hem or shoulder of the product, resulting in a high-quality product. In addition, it is possible to perform an overlap cutting by an automatic cutting machine automatically controlled by a computer, so that work efficiency can be remarkably improved.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a process chart showing one embodiment of the method of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 DESCRIPTION OF REFERENCE NUMERALS 1 mold ground 2 pattern matching line 3 outer circumference of mold ground 4 fleshed outer circumference 5 knife of automatic cutting machine 6 pointer piece 8 needle driving needle 9 type optional stop point on ground 10 breathable paper 11 drawn on breathable paper Pattern 12 Extension line of pattern matching line 13 Parallel line drawn on air-permeable paper 14 Fabric 15 Pattern line of fabric 16 Cross-pattern matching line 17 Optional stop of pointer piece

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. When cutting a fabric having a pattern into a specific pattern while arranging the pattern at a specific position, the pattern is overlapped and cut using an automatic cutting machine automatically controlled by a computer, Use the automatic cutting machine to adjust the pattern position of the uppermost layer in advance and cut the pattern one size larger, and after the cutting, correct the pattern precisely to correct the dispersion of the pattern, and then accurately direct the direction for each part After preparing
A method of cutting a cloth having a pattern by an automatic cutting machine, wherein the position of the pattern is accurately corrected by an automatic cutting machine and the sheet is overlapped and cut on a regular mold.