JPH09228110A - Clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain comfortable clothes markedly light and high in air permeability compared with the conventional clothes, capable of being worn coolly, at the same time coexisting a property for preventing a see-through and a silhouette property which are contradictory to the above property, and suitable for a use in summer time. SOLUTION: The clothes are constituted by a face cloth having 1,500-2,500 covering factor, >=300×10<3> K index [amount of aeration (cc/cm<2> .sec) × cover factor] where, cover factor = number of warp yarns (number/inch) × fineness of warp yarn (denier)<0.5> + number of weft yarns (number/inch) × fineness of weft yarn (denier)<0.5> ), 6-18% opening ratio and 80-200g/m<2> unit weight.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a refreshing garment which is lightweight, has high breathability, and has good transparency and shape retention.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in order to obtain coolness, as a material or an auxiliary material for summer clothes, a material as thin and open as possible has been used or a ventilation portion has been provided to facilitate ventilation. Various attempts have been made.

As a proposal for clothing that can be worn cool in the summer, a cooling jacket in which the ventilation amount of the shoulder portion is regulated in Japanese Utility Model Laid-Open No. 63-98310 and a mesh cloth in which the mesh cloth is used in Japanese Utility Model Laid-Open No. 1-149486 are used. -82802 discloses a summer suit in which about half the length from the cuff to the sleeve can be opened and closed with a zipper, and the actual suit in JP 55-4086 has a jacket with a vent. It is disclosed.

However, in the proposals so far, there are fatal drawbacks that if it is desired to obtain a material that is light and has good air permeability, it is easy to see through, and the shape retaining property is poor and the shape is easily deformed. We haven't got anything satisfactory. It was extremely difficult to achieve both these conflicting performances.

That is, conventionally, as summer clothes,
Although many attempts have been made to use fabrics and sub-materials that are thin and open with good air permeability, light weight and high air permeability allow light to pass through the open parts of the underwear. The problem of "translucency" that allows the body to be seen through becomes apparent.
This is unsightly in appearance and inferior in dignity, so that the value as clothes is significantly reduced, and there is a problem that it becomes extremely unsuitable particularly for formal seats such as suits. Also, if you want to lighten your clothes, there is no other way but to reduce the amount of materials that make up your clothes.
If so, the shape retention property is deteriorated and the shape is apt to be deformed, which also lowers the value as clothes, which is not preferable.
It has been extremely difficult for a garment to have both of the contradictory performances of lightness, high air permeability (cooling property) and transparency, shape retention, and appearance quality (basic property).

Therefore, as a result of thorough analysis and comprehensive examination of the materials constituting the garment, the present inventors have found that when sewn into a garment, it is lightweight, breathable (cooling property) and transparent. ,
The shape retention and the appearance quality (basic characteristics) have a great influence on the outer material that constitutes the outside of the garment. Only when the outer material has a limited characteristic value, the above fatal The inventors have found that the problem can be solved and arrived at the present invention.

[0007]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is remarkably lighter and more breathable than conventional ones, and can be worn coolly, while at the same time achieving both anti-transparency and silhouette which are contradictory performances. It is intended to provide comfortable clothes suitable for summer.

[0008]

The present invention, which achieves the above-mentioned object, has the following constitution. That is,
The cover factor of the outer material that constitutes clothes is 15
0 to 2500 and K index defined below is 3
00 × 10 ³ or more and an aperture ratio of 6 to 18%,
A garment having a fabric weight of 80 to 200 g / m ² .

K index = aeration rate (cc / cm ² · sec)
× Cover factor However, cover factor = number of warp threads (threads / inch) ×
Warp fineness (denier) ^0.5 + number of wefts (pieces / inch) ×
Weft fineness (denier) ^0.5

[0010]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The present invention is based on the use of a surface material having a specific performance. Further, although the present invention is described mainly with respect to outerwear, it can be similarly applied to pants such as slacks or pants.

The outer material used for the garment of the present invention has a cover factor of 1500 to 2500, a K index defined in the present invention of 300 × 10 ³ or more, and an opening ratio of 6 to 18%. Weight is 80-200g
/ M requirements ,,, that is ² are those composed of woven fabric satisfying. The four requirements will be individually described below.

The cover factor indicates the filling property of the fibers in the woven fabric and is represented by the following formula.

Cover factor = number of warp yarns (units / inch) × warp yarn fineness (denier) ^0.5 + number of weft yarns (units / inch) × weft yarn fineness (denier) ^{0.5 In the} present invention, such a cover factor is 1500 to 250.
The requirement is 0, and if this value is less than the above range, the fabric feels unsatisfactory in volume and poor in shape retention, resulting in poor wearing comfort and appearance quality, which is not preferable. For example, a mesh fabric corresponds to this, and although it is lightweight and has high breathability, it is not suitable as a dress material other than Japanese-style clothing because it is not transparent and has a poor sense of fulfillment, resulting in poor appearance. On the other hand, if it exceeds this range, it becomes heavy and has low air permeability, and the cooling performance is deteriorated, which is not preferable. This cover factor is preferably 160
0 to 2300, particularly preferably 1800 to 220
0.

The K index defined by the following equation is 300.
It is a requirement that it is × 10 ³ or more.

K index = aeration rate (cc / cm ² · sec)
× Cover Factor The K index is a value that represents both compatibility of the cover factor (fiber filling property) and the air flow rate (cooling property), and this value is 30.
When it is 0 × 10 ³ or more, it has a preferable fiber filling amount as a surface material of clothes, that is, a preferable volume feeling, shape retention, appearance quality, and transparency, and at the same time, has good breathability. Is a characteristic indicating that

Here, the air flow rate is measured by a test method defined in JIS-L1096 (Fragile method). The K index is preferably 350 × 10 ³ or more, more preferably 400 × 10 ³ or more, and further preferably 450 × 10 ³ or more. K index is 30
When it is less than 0 × 10 ³ , the air permeability is insufficient, and the comfort, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be sufficiently satisfied.

In order to achieve such a K index of 300 × 10 ³ or more, a woven structure that does not reduce the air permeability even if the fiber filling ratio in the woven fabric is high, that is, a large woven fabric opening ratio despite a large amount of fibers. It is required to form (fiber space). In order to achieve this preferably, the density of the warp yarn and the weft yarn itself constituting the woven fabric is increased, the filling rate of the fibers in the yarn is increased, and the yarn is difficult to move in the cross-sectional direction against external stress. This inevitably increases the space of the woven fabric per the fiber filling amount.

As an effective means for increasing the yarn density, it is possible to use strong twist yarn. In addition to the hard-twisted yarn being a hard-to-set yarn, the strongly twisted yarn can also exhibit a firmness and elasticity of the woven fabric. The number of twists is 800 for both warp and weft.
A strong twist of T / m or more is preferable. Preferably 1000
T / m or more, particularly preferably 1200 T / m or more. Here, the number of twists is the number of upper twists in a double-twisted yarn or more twisted twisted yarns, and naturally is the number of twists in the case where the twisted yarns are not in a mixed twisted state like a single yarn.

As another preferable method for increasing the density of the yarn, by making the lower twist and the upper twist in different twist directions, the filling rate of the fiber can be further increased, and the air per cover factor can be increased. The space through which can pass can be enlarged. On the other hand, if the yarn is easily set, the K index is lowered to the above value or less, the porosity (opening ratio) of the fabric per fiber filling amount (cover factor) is lowered, and it is difficult to obtain a fabric having good air permeability. It will be.

Further, in the present invention, from the viewpoint of the volume feeling and shape retention of the cloth, the yarns constituting the outer material are 120 to
It is preferably 360 denier (25 to 75 meters count), more preferably 138 to 300 denier (30 to 65 meters count), and particularly preferably,
It is 163 to 225 denier (40 to 55 meters).

In addition, the fact that the K index is large means, conversely, that there is little settling of the yarn, and even if the opening ratio is the same, a woven structure with a large thickness can be obtained, so that a woven fabric with little sheer can be obtained. This is a remarkable effect of the present invention. As the yarn structure, single yarn, twin yarn, triplets, short fiber yarn, long fiber yarn,
Conventionally known yarn types such as long / short composite yarn and long / long composite yarn can be applied.

The aperture ratio is required to be 6-18%. It is preferably 8 to 16%, and particularly preferably 10 to 14%. Determining this value depends on the relationship with other members, of course, but as the outer material, it releases hot air and moisture that stays in the clothes and takes in fresh air from the outside to obtain good cooling performance. Because you can When it is less than this value, the breathability of the clothes is poor, and it is difficult to obtain a good cooling property. On the other hand, if it is more than this value, the transparency becomes remarkable, the volume feeling of the cloth is poor, the shape retention is inferior, and misalignment and scratch damage are likely to occur, which is not preferable.

The opening ratio is measured by expanding the woven fabric sample by a magnifying device to about 50 to 100 times (shading from directly above and a non-shading part), that is, the ratio of the area of the opening, that is, the opening ratio (%). ) = (Area where fibers are not present / total area) × 100. As a specific measuring method, it can be obtained by taking a photograph using a video microscope (VMS-1000S type) manufactured by SCARA CORPORATION and measuring the area of the opening portion and the entire area of the enlarged photograph.

Further, the basis weight is required to be composed of a woven fabric of 80 to 200 g / m ² . Preferably 90-18
0 g / m ² , particularly preferably 100 to 170 g / m ^2
2 When the value of the basis weight satisfies the above requirements at the same time, it is possible to provide high air permeability, light weight, and excellent shape retention. If it is less than this value, the texture becomes rough and the volume feeling as clothes becomes poor, and if it is more than this value, it becomes heavy and the breathability deteriorates.

As described above, the present invention can satisfy the above four requirements at the same time and have the basic performance as the outer surface of the garment, and can obtain good lightness and coolness.

In addition, in the garment of the present invention, the designated portion of the suit jacket, jacket jacket, suit jacket, etc. shown in FIG. 1 has the following ventilation amount, so that the object of the present invention is more preferable. Can be achieved.

(1) Lower chest pocket: 40 cc / cm ² · sec or more (2) Upper chest pocket: 40 cc / cm ² · sec or more (3) Shoulder pad: 40 cc / cm ² · sec or more (4) Upper back : 70 cc / cm ² · sec or more The present invention does not require a specific material for other members, but the application of a member that extremely hinders the features of high air permeability and light weight, which is the object of the present invention, is applied. It is needless to say that it is desirable to avoid the above in order to achieve the performance of the designated portion.

The fiber composition used in the dressing material of the present invention is a chemical composition having a polymer such as polyamides, polyesters, polyaramids, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl alcohol and copolymer modified products thereof or a mixture of other components. Textiles, wool, silk, cotton,
Natural fibers such as hemp or fibers obtained by mixing or combining natural fibers with chemical fibers can be applied.

The surface weave design of the present invention is not particularly limited, but it is plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, imitation weave, honeycomb web,
Hack weave, satin weave, or a mixed structure thereof can be applied. Among them, a mock weave, a hack weave, and a satin weave are preferably used because they have a firm shape even if the woven fabric has coarse meshes and can exhibit good shape retention.

The structure of the present invention can be applied to all kinds of clothes such as men's and women's suits, coats, uniforms and working wear. Particularly, dignity and appearance are regarded as important, and the present invention can be preferably applied to suits required as full-dress even in summer.

For those who know the structure of the present invention,
It would be easy to deploy the garment in the present invention to other things.

[0033]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples.

Example 1 As a surface material, both warp yarn and weft yarn are made of wool, 241 denier (37.4 meters count twin yarn), and Z is 833 as the bottom twist.
T / m, top twist is S twist 1458 T / m, weave density is vertical 61
A fabric having a book / inch, width 57 / inch, and basis weight 169 g / m ² of plain weave was prepared. The opening ratio of the fabric is 1
2.2%.

This cover material has a cover factor of 1831.
The air flow rate was 247 cc / cm ² · sec. Therefore, the K index of this surface material was 452 × 10 ³ .

A summer men's suit was sewn using a commercially available lightweight and highly breathable type construction core as the interlining and a commercially available lightweight type lining as the lining. The pants were sewn using the same outer material and lining.

The obtained men's suit was a sewn product, especially a jacket, which was well along the line of the body, and which was finished in a suit capable of expressing a beautiful silhouette.

Suit coat weight is 531g for A-6 size
The weight was 74 g, which is lighter than the conventional summer suit jacket weight of 605 g.

Further, the ventilation amount of the portion shown in FIG.
When measured by L1096 (Frazier method), it was as follows and showed high air permeability.

[0040] (1) chest pocket the ^{bottom: 65cc / cm 2 · sec (} 2) chest pocket ^{top: 70cc / cm 2 · sec (} 3) shoulder pad ^{portions: 40cc / cm 2 · sec (} 4) upper back: 85cc / cm ² · sec Wearing such a suit, in a climate chamber, 28 ℃,
Under the environment of 65% RH, 80 cm / min × 20 cm height table
Repeat the exercise of raising and lowering for 3 minutes and stopping for 3 minutes 4 times,
Humidity and temperature at the upper back were measured. A commercial summer suit was used as a comparative product. The result is,
The humidity and temperature in the clothes were clearly low, and a cooling effect was also observed on the feeling of the subject.

Example 2 As a surface material, 150 denier of wool 75 / polyester 25 (60.
0 meters count) Mixed twisted yarn, lower twist is 33T with S twist of wool
/ M, polyester is untwisted, top twist is Z twist 1550T /
m, the weaving density was 96 warps / inch, the width was 83 stitches / inch, and a fabric having a basis weight of 151 g / m ² was prepared. The open area ratio of the woven fabric was 13.3%.

This cover material has a cover factor of 2192.
The ventilation rate was 230 cc / cm ² · sec. Therefore, the K index of this surface material was 504 × 10 ³ .

The same material as in Example 1 was used as the outer material, the interlining material and the lining material, and a summer men's suit was sewn. The pants were sewn using the same outer material and lining.

The obtained sewn product is used as a summer suit.
It had a high-grade appearance quality and good silhouette with no noticeable see-through.

Suit jacket weight is 515g for A-6 size
Met. In addition, the ventilation amount of the portion shown in FIG.
When measured by 1096 (Flagille method), the results are as follows, and the air permeability was clearly lower than that in Example 1.

(1) Lower chest pocket: 85 cc / cm ² · sec (2) Upper chest pocket: 92 cc / cm ² · sec (3) Shoulder pad: 55 cc / cm ² · sec (4) Upper back: 127 cc / cm ² · sec Wearing such a suit, in a climate chamber, 28 ℃,
Under the environment of 65% RH, 80 cm / min × 20 cm height table
Repeat the exercise of raising and lowering for 3 minutes and stopping for 3 minutes 4 times,
Humidity and temperature at the upper back were measured. As in Example 1,
The humidity and temperature in the clothes were clearly lower than those of the commercially available summer suits, and the feeling of the subject was refreshing.

Comparative Example As a surface material, the texture is a woven cloth, both the vertical thread and the horizontal thread are wool, and the vertical thread is 263 denier (34.2 m count), the horizontal thread is 198 denier (45.5 m count), the vertical thread. The lower twist is Z682T / m, the upper twist is Z675
T / m, weft twist Z867 T / m, weave density vertical 6
8 pieces / inch, horizontal 51 pieces / inch with basis weight 144g / m ²
Of dough was prepared. This cover material has a cover factor of 1
The air flow rate was 820 and the air flow rate was 85 cc / cm ² · sec. Therefore, the K index of this surface material was 155 × 10 ³ .

A summer men's suit was sewn by using a commercially available lightweight and highly breathable type construction core as the outer material and a commercially available lightweight type fabric as the lining. The pants were sewn using the same outer material and lining.

The obtained sewn product had a quality of appearance close to that of a commercially available summer suit, and the suit jacket weight was 605 g in A-6 size. Further, when the air permeability of the portion shown in FIG. 1 was measured by JIS-L1096 (Flagille method), it was as follows, and was clearly lower than that of Example 1.

(1) Lower chest pocket: 21 cc / cm ² · sec (2) Upper chest pocket: 22 cc / cm ² · sec (3) Shoulder pad part: 10 cc / cm ² · sec (4) Upper back: 25 cc / cm ² · sec Wearing such a suit, in a climate chamber, 28 ℃,
Under the environment of 65% RH, 80 cm / min × 20 cm height table
Repeat the exercise of raising and lowering for 3 minutes and stopping for 3 minutes 4 times,
Humidity and temperature at the upper back were measured. Compared with Example 1, the humidity and temperature inside the clothes were high, and the subject's body sensation was clearly sultry.

[0051]

The garment of the present invention has good lightness and air permeability by using a surface material having specific performance,
In addition, the appearance quality is low with little sheer, and has a firm form and a beautiful silhouette. In particular, it is possible to provide summer clothing with unprecedented comfort.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a measurement part of a ventilation amount of a garment (for example, a suit) according to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 a: Lower part of the pocket b: Upper part of the pocket c: Shoulder pad part d: Upper part of the back

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. A cover material constituting a garment, which has a cover factor of 1500 to 2500, a K index defined below of 300 × 10 ³ or more, an opening ratio of 6 to 18%, and a basis weight. A garment characterized by being composed of a woven fabric of 80 to 200 g / m ² . K index = air flow rate (cc / cm ² · sec) × cover factor However, cover factor = number of warp threads (thread / inch) ×
Warp fineness (denier) ^0.5 + number of wefts (pieces / inch) ×
Weft fineness (denier) ^0.5 2. A garment composed of a dress material satisfying claim 1, wherein the specified portion of the garment has the following ventilation amount. (1) Lower chest pocket: 40 cc / cm ² · sec or more (2) Upper chest pocket: 40 cc / cm ² · sec or more (3) Shoulder pad: 40 cc / cm ² · sec or more (4) Upper back: 70 cc / cm ² · sec or more 3. The woven design of the outer material is plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, imitation weave, honeycomb weave, hack weave, satin weave, or a mixed design thereof.
The garment described in. 4. The garment according to claim 1, wherein the yarn constituting the outer fabric has a different twisting direction between the lower twist and the upper twist. 5. The yarn constituting the outer material is 80 in the ply twist.
2. A twist number of 0 T / m or more.
The clothes according to any one of to 5. 6. The garment according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the yarn constituting the outer material is 120 to 360 denier (25 to 75 m count). 7. The garment according to claim 1, which is a suit, a suit, a jacket, or a coat.