JPH086201B2 - Structure of suit type clothing - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a structure of a suit-type clothing upper garment, and more specifically, it has a function to cope with bending and vertical rotation by arm movement, and eliminates the bulge of the armpit and the like, and is equipped with a dressing appearance. It relates to the improvement of suits and jackets.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In the conventional garment field, even in suits, work clothes, etc., the clothes were worn while still through the course of the history of clothes, which began with curvilinear cutting such as sleeves like today's clothes. Attention is paid to aesthetic form or style.

As described above, even if the clothes are in conformity with the body shape, they may give a feeling of pressure when the arm or the like is rotated up and down in view of the motor function in daily work, and there is a factor that hinders the motion. . For this reason, in sportswear with a large amount of exercise, use of elastic material, or sleeve attachment such as lag lance sleeves, and to prevent twitching of the upper garment, form a suitable horizontal horizontal axis under the armpit of the wearer. A proposal has been made to make it easier to rotate up and down around Seshimeyuki.

For example, in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 63-28909, the upper garment prototype is composed of three body parts, a front body, a back body and a side body integrated with a sleeve bottom, and a suture line to the front and rear bodies of the side body is omitted. A parallel straight line is formed, and a suture line and a sleeve attaching line to the side body of the front body and the back body are formed by projecting in a mountain shape toward the side body side with the sleeve bottom portion of the sleeve attaching line as an apex, and the above sleeve. A prototype of an upper garment has been proposed, which is characterized in that the sleeve bottom portion of the attachment line is set at the bottom position of the cross section of the human arm root. Also, in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 30-6726, the front sleeve and the inner sleeve are cut in series and a V-shaped notch is provided in the armpit, and the inner sleeve is folded back to the front, and the outer sleeve is sewn on. Structure of sleeved clothes made by backsewn left and right front bodies with sleeves made of tubular sleeves made on the front body and back body, and notches sewn, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 31-1
In Japanese Patent No. 773, the armpit is cut in series with the front body, the outer sleeve is provided with a thumb-shaped horizontal protrusion at the sewing end of the front body, and the rear extension of the armpit is connected to the front body with a horizontal curved portion. A method of cutting and sewing a sleeve sleeve is disclosed. In addition, real public sho 32-
In the 6723 publication, a side body is provided between the front and rear bodies, and the side body is cut into an approximately strip shape which is integrated with an upside-down "U" -shaped inner sleeve. The lower half of the front and rear vertical edges and the front half of the front body, which is in the shape of an upside down "K". The lower half of the vertical front edge of the rear edge and rear body. The front and rear vertical edges of the inner sleeve and the front edge of the outer sleeve. And the structure of the upper garment which is attached to each of the "K" -shaped rear edges, and in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 33-14734, a side body is provided between the front and rear bodies, and the side and side of the body are collapsed. The front and rear vertical edges of the side body and the front body are perpendicular to each other by cutting the back vertical edge into an arcuate curved inner sleeve and making it fall There is known a structure of an upper garment in which a rear vertical edge and a fold-down front vertical edge of the rear body are further joined to each other, and further front and rear vertical edges of an inner sleeve and a front vertical edge and an arcuate rear vertical edge of an outer sleeve are attached to each other. .

[0005]

In such a proposal, for example, in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 63-28909, there is room for forward and backward and diagonal movements of the arm and bending and twisting movements of the body, and the space is provided under the armpit. Although it is a prototype of the upper garment that is concentrated on, the upper garment prototype disclosed there is effective for up and down movement of the arm because the shoulder width is narrow, but the back side is cramped and it is often used in daily work such as forward insertion of the arm There is a problem in behavior, and there is a problem in that the sleeved part has a bulge or a bulge that is unsightly in appearance due to the configuration that the side width is too wide. Fig.), Or jumpers, sportswear, etc., even if they are adaptable, they are usually called a suit, which usually has a pre-movement in a stationary state or when the elbow is bent slightly. The clothing is required particularly vertical Mawarido function of the arm portions, such as holding out before the arm, and worn by aesthetic form and appearance, as the suit type garment ependymal the appearance is required insufficient. Further, in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 33-14734 and No. 32-6723, the side body provided between the front and rear bodies is formed into a V shape and is cut into a substantially strip shape or a strip shape which is integrated with an inner sleeve having an inverted V shape. With this configuration, the inner sleeve D is too bent, and it is difficult to cut and sew. Also, since the connection between the inner sleeve D and the front body A is too short, for example, the front insertion of the arm is easy. There is an obstacle that makes it difficult to lift the arm upward, especially the vertical rotation of the arm. Furthermore, Japanese Patent Publication Sho 31-17
In Japanese Patent Publication No. 73 and Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 30-6726, abnormal projections such as the rear extension 10 of the front body 2 and the thumb-shaped projection 4 of the outer sleeve 3 are difficult to handle both in terms of cutting and sewing. It takes a lot of length per piece and a lot of loss occurs. Further, even with a structure in which a lateral fold line can be flexibly formed under the armpit, the bulge causes a strain on the wearer and the appearance is impaired in appearance, so that there is a problem as a suit for a garment. In these conventional proposals, shirts that are subject to flexion of the body and vertical rotation of the arms, prototypes of upper garments suitable for athletic garments, etc., or even a flat cloth configuration in which the side body and inner sleeves are connected can be used for cutting and sewing. Difficult inhibition was observed, and further, there was a drawback that swelling and distortion were likely to occur during wearing and the aesthetics would be impaired. However, in clothes generally called garments today, work clothes, commuting clothes, etc., whose functionality is mainly coexisting with decorative elements and practicality coexist, are desired, and even suits with suits suitable for decoration and practical purposes. However, in any case, the above-mentioned conventional proposals have not been satisfactory as a suit-type outer garment that requires decorative elements such as aesthetic form and style together with practicality.

[0006]

In view of the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor has taken into consideration the above-mentioned problems, and particularly in the case of a suit of a suit type, has an exercise function and a hindrance, dragging, fluffing, and the like in repetitive motions when worn and a jacket. In consideration of cutting and sewing of the prototype, in terms of clothing design, from the viewpoint of clothing size and body measurement, for example, in the case of a suit type clothing, unlike the configuration of shirts and sportswear, there are not only many stationary states,
From the range of motion, since the range of motion such as forearm extension and vertical rotation is relatively limited, it is the range of motion of the humerus,
Moreover, the structure of the base of the elbow or the underarm is deeply related, and ultimately the structure and function of the arm in the human skeleton, especially the arm skeleton centering around the elbow, are the most important points to be addressed in the clothing size of the suit type jacket. The present invention has been arrived at by paying attention to certain things.

From the viewpoint of skeletal muscles and motor functions necessary for clothing design, joints of arms (in anatomy, an arm is a part between a shoulder and a wrist, which corresponds to the rest of the upper elbow minus the hand) The range of motion is important, but not only the static form of the human body but also the changes in muscles and joints due to posture and movement, so-called joint mechanics and exercise physiology. Since the arm can be bent at the elbow, the upper half is also called the upper arm, the lower half is also called the forearm, and the upper arm is also called the upper arm, but in human beings standing upright, the legs support the body, the arms are away from the ground It has become.
Therefore, the arm is smaller in shape than the leg, but the connection between the bones is loose, and its skeleton is composed of the humerus in the upper arm and the radius and ulna in the forearm. The humerus is connected by the scapula and shoulder joint on the upper side, and the ulna and radius by the elbow joint on the lower side.The shoulder joint is a multiaxial ball joint and is the most mobile in the human body, but the elbow joint is the main part. The major part is a uniaxial hinge joint. Also, the muscles mainly function to bend the biceps and elbows, and the triceps brachii of the rear surface of the upper arm stretches the elbow as an antagonist. In addition, there are 8 elongated muscles on the front of the forearm, which mainly favors movements such as bending of the wrists and fingers and turning the palm from the inside to the rear, and there are 11 muscles on the back of the forearm. As an anterior muscle of the front muscles, it can extend the wrists and fingers and perform supination. The present invention, the arm mechanism around these elbows, further the front and rear of the arm base and the lower part of the arm base (lower arm part)
Centering on the amount of movement of the humerus, especially the range and function of the humerus. Therefore, it is appropriate in terms of clothing design that a curved state is formed at the elbow, and in terms of body measurement, the relationship between the body size of the chest (chiest) and the width of the armpit In particular, we examined the improvement of the structure of the outer garment with tube sleeve sewing that has both practicality and appearance style suitable for suit type jackets, which tend to move the arms forward and move up and down frequently during the range of motion. It is a thing. The present invention
A side body 4 is provided between the front body 2 and the back body 3, and the side body 4 is provided.
To form a curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece, which is connected to the inner sleeve 5 and cut as one body, and is formed on the lower part of the front and rear longitudinal edge suture lines of the side body 4 and the rear longitudinal edge suture line of the front body 2 and the rear body 3. A sleeve- type sleeve garment made of cut-and-sew sleeves in which the front vertical edge suture line, the front and rear vertical edge suture lines of the inner sleeve 5, and the front vertical edge suture line and the rear vertical edge suture line of the outer sleeve 6 are sewn respectively. Below the armpit fold line L, the strip-shaped continuous cloth piece has a substantially rectangular shape, and above the armpit fold line L, the inclination angle is 20 degrees or less with respect to the central axis, and the armpit width W is 1 / one of the chest half body length dimension. It is intended to provide a structure of a suit type garment having a length of 4 plus 3 to 8%. In addition, in the suit type clothing in the present invention,
In addition to the clothes garments that are called, suit blazer, blouson, and
Includes activity suits such as suits and suits and police uniforms .

[0008]

FIG. 1 is a side view of an upper garment with an arm raised showing an embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece in which an armpit and an inner sleeve of the present invention are integrally connected. Development plan view, FIG. 3 is a development plan view of the front body, FIG. 4 is a development plan view of the back body, FIG.
FIG. 6 is a developed plan view of the outer sleeve, and FIG. 6 is an explanatory perspective view of body measurements and clothing dimensions at the side width. Top body 1 of the present invention
2, reference numeral 2 is a front body, and 3 is a back body. As shown in FIG. 2, a side body 4 is provided between the front and rear bodies, and a curved strip type in which an inner sleeve 5 integrated with the side body 4 is connected. The continuous cloth piece A is sewn on. The fabric piece A has a substantially rectangular shape below the armpit fold line L, and has a taper-shaped inner sleeve 5 above the armpit fold line L, and at the armpit fold line L, the inclination angle θ with respect to the central axis is 20 degrees. Hereinafter, preferably, it is 10 to 15 degrees, and is cut into a plane that is integrally formed in such a curved state, and the front longitudinal edge suture line 7 of the armpit body 4 and the lower portion 8 of the rear longitudinal edge suture line and the front body. 2 back longitudinal edge suture line 15 and front longitudinal edge suture line 14 of the back body 3, front longitudinal edge suture lines 9 and 10 of the inner sleeve 5 and front longitudinal edge suture line 16 and rear longitudinal edge suture line of the outer sleeve 6. It has a schematic structure in which 17 and 17 are sewn together. The chain line portion of the curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece A shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is a horizontal armpit fold line L, and a suitable horizontal axis is naturally formed at the lower part of the arm root to form the armpit body 4. It is configured to act as a hinge mechanism with the inner sleeve 5.

In the above-mentioned structure of the present invention, the curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece A is a flat cloth which is cut as one body by connecting the side body 4 and the inner sleeve 5 provided between the front body 2 and the back body 3. Although it is a piece, the side width W of the underarm line L, that is, the range of the horizontal width in the horizontal axis direction is set for the cloth piece F mainly for the purpose of coping with arm movement and wearing beauty. The front width and back width of the body measurement for sewing are adjusted in relation to the above. The armpit width W is appropriately 1/4 of the body size of the chest around the body (chest), and a length obtained by adding 3 to 8% of the body size thereto, and preferably 5 to 6%.
For example, adult men's clothing size (JIS L 4004
-1980), drop (body type) 12A, Tiesto 92 cm, height 170 cm, 46
The length of the side width W is 11.5 + 2.30 = 13.8 centimeters, assuming that it is centimeters / 4 plus 5%.
If the length of the armpit W is longer than this, the armpit is likely to be loosened or loose, and if it is shorter than this, the armpit becomes narrow and cramped, while if the armpit becomes too wide, it will remain stationary. It causes sagging and swelling, which hinders the vertical rotation of the arm.
In this way, the underarm fold line L of the curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece A provided between the front body 2 and the back body 3 is formed as a series of cloth pieces, and keeps a flat state without being collapsed. As a result, there is no pulling action from other parts, and the forward insertion of the arm and the vertical rotation of the curved elbow can be smoothly performed.

Further, the curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece A of the present invention.
In the above configuration, as shown in FIG. 6, the connection between the radius 12 and the ulna 13 connected to the humerus 11 is gradual, and the state in which the elbow is bent to the anterior medial side is usually a natural body, and the humerus 11 is only the front part. Although there is a certain range of motion on the back side as well, it is possible to draw a substantially elliptical arc. However, in terms of clothing design, fishing and dribbling in these ranges of motion are eliminated, and it is also a requirement that the appearance beauty when worn and the balance with style appearance should be satisfied, It is different in the problem to be solved from the conventional proposal that assumes a wide range of motion such as sportswear and shirts. For this reason, in the present invention, in the construction of the curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece A, especially the armpit frontward movement and vertical rotation can be performed smoothly without causing friction with the upper garment and at the lower armpit. Along with the setting of the range of the length, the inclination angle θ is 2 with respect to the central axis of the inner sleeve 5 that is integrally connected to the side body 4.
By forming a curved state of 0 degrees or less, it reduces the forward movement of the arm, the vertical rotation, and the friction and resistance with the clothes when moving from the bending elbow of a natural body to the adjustment of the clothes dimensions and body measurements. Alternatively, the configuration is such that the consistency is enhanced, and in particular, the accessory property of the humerus in the arm motion range is dealt with.
When the side width becomes wider, looseness and bulging occur at the bottom of the sleeve,
Furthermore, the vertical rotation function of the arm is reduced. In addition, when the armpit width becomes narrow, the bending of the arm and the elbow are hindered, and the silhouette of the cuff is impaired, resulting in poor wearing and appearance. Further, the strip-shaped continuous cloth piece in the prior art has a more complicated shape than a substantially rectangular shape, and is difficult to cut and sew.

[0011]

In the structure of the upper garment constructed as described above, it follows and conforms to the shape of the arm skeleton and the normal mode of the biceps brachii that mainly functions to bend the elbow, and also the natural lateral folding back armpit fold line In the prototype of cutting a flat cloth piece integrally connecting the armpit body 4 and the inner sleeve 5 which form the skirt, the shoulder width becomes too wide or the swelling part on the rear side of the armpit is dressed up by the conventional proposal of this kind. It solves the above problems and works like suits for suits that require decorative elements. Then, the natural lateral folding back armpit fold line formed on the armpit serves as a horizontal axis to absorb fishing and the like, and with this as a center, the arm can be extended or the vertical rotation motion can be lightly performed without difficulty. Further, in the present invention, in consideration of the shape and mechanism of the muscular body of the human body, in the curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece A in which the armpit body 4 and the inner sleeve 5 are integrally connected, the normal arm insertion and vertical rotation can be prevented. As a premise, the elbow portion of the human arm is substantially in a slightly curved state, and since it is a basic mode of various movements of the arm, the corresponding degree of curvature, that is, the inclination angle θ with respect to the central axis of the inner sleeve 5 is A curved state of 20 degrees or less, preferably 10 to 15 degrees or less is formed, and the length of the armpit width W is in the range of ¼ plus 3 to 8% of the body size of the chest around the body in the clothing size, and follows this Since the front width and the back width can be adjusted appropriately, it works so as to eliminate fishing, looseness, bulging, etc. under the armpit. Further, in the configuration of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned functionality and practicality, the appearance and decorative elements that are necessary conditions for a suit-type outer garment are too wide to deal with a wide range of motions. These problems can be solved in contrast to the conventional configuration in which the width is too wide and the shoulders are cramped, or bulging or dullness is generated around the armpits, which may impair the appearance as a suit type jacket. Work like.

[0012]

Since the present invention is constituted as described above, it has the following effects. Since a curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece that integrally connects the side body and the inner sleeve is provided between the front and rear bodies, the natural lateral folding back formed under the armpit is centered around It is possible to smoothly and smoothly move the arm forward or vertically. The curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece of the present invention has a substantially rectangular shape below the armpit fold line, and above that, it is a striped-shaped upper garment because it has a tapered strip shape and an appropriate degree of curvature is formed. When worn, the friction is reduced and there is no hindrance in arm movements, and it is possible to exhibit its followability in relation to forward insertion and vertical rotation, and since the continuous plane cloth piece is substantially rectangular, it is industrially Advantageously, required cutting can be performed, and cutting can be performed without requiring a large scale, so that scraps can be significantly reduced and cost can be reduced. Furthermore, with this type of proposal, the shoulder width has become too wide, or problems such as bulging points on the rear side of the armpit have been eliminated.
With the practicality of motor functions such as arm movements, it is possible to obtain a suit type garment that requires decorative elements.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a side view of an upper garment with arms raised, showing an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a developed plan view of a curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a developed plan view of a front body.

FIG. 4 is a developed plan view of a rear body.

FIG. 5 is a developed plan view of an outer sleeve.

FIG. 6 is an explanatory perspective view of body measurement and clothing dimensions at a side width.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Upper body 2 Front body 3 Back body 4 Armpit body 5 Inner sleeve 6 Outer sleeve A Curved continuous strip of cloth L Armpit fold line 11 Humerus 12 Radius 13 Ulna

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A side body 4 is provided between a front body 2 and a back body 3, and the side body 4 is connected to an inner sleeve 5 to form an integrally cut strip-shaped continuous cloth piece. The lower part of the edge suture line and the rear longitudinal edge suture line of the front body 2 and the front longitudinal edge suture line of the rear body 3, the front and rear longitudinal edge suture lines of the inner sleeve 5, and the front longitudinal edge suture line and the rear of the outer sleeve 6. In a sleeve- type sleeve garment sewn with vertical edge sutures, the strip-shaped continuous cloth piece is a curved strip-shaped continuous cloth piece, and has a substantially rectangular shape below the armpit fold line L. A structure of a wide-garment clothing garment having an inclination angle of 20 degrees or less with respect to the central axis above the underline L and having a side width W of ¼ plus 3 to 8% of the chest half body size.