JPH0819589B2 - Mottled structured yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a polyester mottled structure yarn and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a polyester multi-filament false twist structure yarn having a substantial yarn length difference and thickness unevenness in the length direction.

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, synthetic fiber fabrics have been variously devised and improved in the respective areas such as texture, appearance, and touch, using natural fiber fabrics as a model. This is also the case for polyester false twisted yarn. For example, starting from a simple crimped yarn,
There is a two-layer structure processed yarn that provides a yarn length difference between the side yarn and the core yarn to diversify the space mode. Further, visually, there is a fluffy yarn in which a partially stretched yarn is subjected to simultaneous false twisting (partial stretching) to provide some non-uniformity (for example, difference in crystallinity, dyeability, etc.). In the following, the term "simultaneous drawing false twisting" is collectively called including partial drawing false twisting. Further, there is a method of false twisting a partially drawn yarn and a drawn yarn as an attempt to retain the structure and the unevenness.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention]

However, the textured yarn obtained by these methods is not preferable in terms of feeling and touch. In particular, a woven fabric used by twisting is twisted and tightened at a portion having no difference in yarn length. The present invention satisfies both of these two requirements.

[Means for solving the problem]

The present invention relates to a false twist structure yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilaments having different yarn lengths, which has a yarn length difference over almost the entire length of the structural yarn, and the filament having the longer yarn length is longer. The thickness difference in the thickness direction, the difference in the yarn length of the thick portion is larger than the difference in the yarn length of the thin portion of the filament having the thickness unevenness, and the structural yarn has a mixed fiber entanglement. Polyester multi-filament yarn having substantially uneven thickness and partially stretched or semi-stretched polyester multi-filament uneven yarn and polyester unstretched or stretched uniform multi-filament having substantially no uneven thickness When the yarns are combined with each other and subjected to the disturbing fluid treatment, the former partially stretched or semi-stretched polyester multifilament fluff yarns having a substantial thickness unevenness are excessively supplied by 5% or more. Grant only is a method for producing a polyester plaque structured yarn, characterized in that subsequently false twisted or stretched simultaneously false twisting to.

The mottled structure yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
The figure is a view schematically showing the side surface of the macula structured yarn according to the present invention. In the figure, 1 is a core thread, 2 is a side thread, L is a thick side thread,
1 indicates a thin portion of the side thread. The feature of the mottled structure yarn of the present invention is that it has a substantially thick portion and a thin portion and that they have a substantial yarn length difference (the side yarn is longer than the core yarn). More specifically, the yarn length difference in the thick portion is larger than that in the thin portion, and the thick portion is bulky. In other words, it is large (substantially as fineness) and visually (bulky) synergistically. In addition, regarding the dyeability, the thick part, especially the thick part of the side yarn, often has not advanced molecular orientation,
Absorbs dye well. In other words, it is a woven fabric in which the thick part is increased, and the white color that is slightly dyed and slightly left is spilled, and the thick part is reduced, and the thick part is dyed lightly and the unbleached and white cream is emphasized. Various expressions can be obtained. Further, in the present invention, it is important that the side yarn and the core yarn have a mixed woven entanglement in the longitudinal direction so as not to separate the skin. In particular, the yarn of the present invention is a yarn having a thickness unevenness substantially in the length direction, and such a yarn having a thickness unevenness in the length direction has a side yarn with a core when rubbed. Although it has a drawback that it moves away from the yarn and tends to become a nep, the present invention has a mixed fiber entanglement, and is thus unlikely to become a nep. The mixed fiber entanglement may be partial or intermittent, but it is preferable that the entanglement strength and the frequency are large, and it is particularly preferable that the entanglement is continuous and complete with respect to the yarn. The actual fluid processing that imparts entanglement is looping and entanglement rather than interlacing, Taslan processing in the bath,
Among them, a nozzle such as Hemajet manufactured by Hebaline Co., Ltd. in which the air flow hits the yarn from two or three directions and the yarn and the jet air flow collide with each other at an angle is suitable. The fluid pressure is preferably 4 kg / cm ² or more. Furthermore, the entanglement is difficult to unravel,
In addition, a modified cross-section fiber having protrusions as a fiber shape that is easily entangled, particularly a trilobal fiber is preferable. Further, as the physical properties of the yarn, it is preferable that the shrinkage is relatively large and the specific gravity is small.
This is due to the texture and the manufacturing reasons. As will be described later in detail for manufacturing reasons, the yarn of the present invention is subjected to a disturbing fluid treatment by preliminarily supplying one part of the yarn prior to false twisting (including simultaneous drawing false twisting). By this treatment, protrusions such as loops and curls are formed on the surface of the yarn, and the yarn is easily broken during false twisting. It is important for the physical properties of the yarn to withstand this that the fiber is not brittle, that is, the state in which crystallization is not advanced (molecules are easy to move), in other words, the heat shrinkage with a small specific gravity is large. Also, in terms of the texture of the woven fabric, it is possible to introduce heat shrinkage or accelerate crystallization in the finishing process, and it is possible to obtain a soft woven fabric with no distortion. However, the one with extremely large heat shrinkage (the one with small specific gravity) shrinks and becomes hard during the finishing process, resulting in too tight a warp and a weft. In order to avoid these, in terms of specific numerical values, 98 ° C. hot water shrinkage ratio of 4% to 20% and specific gravity of 1.360 to 1.379 are appropriate.

FIG. 1 schematically shows one example, in which the side yarn and the core yarn are reversed in the thick portion and the thin portion, or may have a multilayer structure in which an intermediate layer is added as a third component. . In addition, although FIG. 1 is shown schematically as being divided into two parts, a thick part and a thin part, of course, an intermediate thickness may be acceptable, and the yarn length difference unevenness may be substantially observed in the length direction. And the yarn has uneven thickness.

Next, the manufacturing method of the present invention will be described. FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing the yarn manufacturing apparatus of the present invention. In the figure, F ₁ is an unstretched polyester yarn, F ₂ is a polyester unstretched yarn or stretched yarn, R ₁ and R ₃ are respective supply rollers, HP is a heating pin, R ₂ is a stretched delivery roller, and N is a disturbance. A fluid nozzle, R ₄ is an intermediate roller, H is a false twist heater, S is a false twist unit, R ₅ is a delivery roller, Tu is a winder, and G is a guide. The polyester unstretched yarn (F ₁ ) is sequentially guided to the supply roller, the heating pin, and the stretched delivery roller, and stretched at a stretch ratio less than or equal to the natural stretch ratio to become a mottled yarn having substantially uneven thickness. The smaller the draw ratio, the larger the amount of thick portion and the longer the length of thick portion. On the contrary, the larger the draw ratio, the larger the amount of the thin portion and the longer the length of the thin portion. Further, the undrawn yarn having a large natural draw ratio has a property that the difference between the thin portion and the thick portion becomes clearer, and a high draw ratio can be obtained to obtain a yarn having a long thin portion. The stretching temperature (heating pin temperature) is usually lower than the secondary dislocation point temperature (80 ° C. or lower), and may be room temperature (room temperature). As the temperature rises, uniform stretching tends to occur. The length of the unevenness largely depends on the length of the drawing zone (the distance between the heating roller and the drawing delivery) and the natural draw ratio, and the smaller the length of the unevenness, the easier it is to obtain a short yarn having a large number of repetitions. The other supply yarn (F ₂ ) is guided to the disturbing fluid nozzle (N), the guide (G), and the intermediate roller (R ₄ ) in order through the supply roller (R ₃ ) together with the preceding yarn yarn, and the fluid is fed. Disturbance treatment is performed.
In the present invention, it is important to excessively supply the partially-stretched or semi-stretched polyester multifilament fluff yarn having thickness irregularity, and the excessive supply rate is required to be 5% or more from the viewpoint of feeling. . By excessively supplying the irregular yarns as described above, it is possible to impart a difference in yarn length to all the yarns even if the supplied yarn (F ₂ ) is a drawn yarn. In that case, a large color difference and a large difference in thickness can be obtained. The purpose of applying the disturbing fluid treatment is to obtain a yarn length difference in the length direction as described above, to impart entanglement to two yarns so as not to separate the skin, and to generate a yarn length in the length direction. It is to keep the spot. Subsequently, the false twisting heater (H), false twisting unit (S), and delivery roller (R ₅ ) are introduced, and false twisting or simultaneous drawing false false twisting is performed and the winding machine (Tu).
Rolled up. False-twisting is applied when the supply yarn (F ₂ ) is not an excessive supply of drawn yarn. In false twisting (including simultaneous drawing false twisting), fluff monofilament breakage is likely to occur by treating a yarn that is excessively supplied by the above-mentioned disturbing fluid processing and has loops or curls on the yarn surface. Especially when the excess supply is excessive. To prevent this, it is effective to lower the false twist temperature (heater temperature). Further, crystallization is small and the state of easy molecular motion is excellent. When this is false twisted at a low false twist temperature, a yarn having a small specific gravity and a large heat shrinkage can be obtained. However, too much is not preferable as described above, and in the present invention, generally 180 ° C. or less and usually 170 ° C. to 80 ° C. are used.
Regarding the false twist number, a value in a normal range is used. Of course, it is necessary to select a condition in which all the thickness unevenness does not disappear under the false twist condition.

The stretching zones (F _{1 to} R ₂ ) may be separated. Furthermore, uniform yarns (stretched yarns or unstretched yarns) may be added to the supply roller (R ₂ or R ₃ ), and unstretched yarns with different natural stretching ratios may be supplied to the supply roller (R ₁ ). Good.

Although the above description is divided into a thick portion and a thin portion for convenience, of course, in the actual stretching process, not only the unstretched and stretched but also the intermediate one is generated. To do. The present invention includes this.

The polymer constituting the mottled structure yarn of the present invention is a polyester, that is, a copolymerized polyester mainly containing polyethylene terephthalate or ethylene terephthalate units. The mixed fiber entanglement means a state in which both fibers are mixed and entangled with each other, and the entanglement can be easily understood by floating the yarn on the water surface and observing the spread of the yarn. Further, the specific gravity is a value based on the weight average.

The 98 ° C. hot water shrinkage ratio is measured as follows. First, make a crepe with a circumference of 1 m by winding a thread 90 times, and 0.1 g / d
Measure the length l ₀ of the ridge under load. Next, it is immersed in hot water at 98 ° C for 30 minutes under a load of 0.0005 g / d, and then naturally dried at room temperature with the load removed. Then, a load of 0.1 g / d is applied again to measure the length l _{1 of the} ridge, and the hot water shrinkage rate at 98 ° C. is calculated by [(l ₀ −l ₁ ) / l ₀ ] × 100 (%).

The yarn length difference referred to in the present invention means a difference in yarn length between individual units, with each of the thick portion and the thin portion of the spot structure yarn as one unit.

Further, the details of the present invention will be specifically described by using Examples and Comparative Examples. The apparatus shown in FIG. 2 was used for the implementation.

Examples, Comparative Examples Using the raw yarns shown in Table 1, partial stretching, compounding yarns, Taslan treatment and false twisting were performed using the apparatus shown in FIG. The respective operating conditions are shown in Table 1. As a result, the performance and facial expression of the obtained mottled structured yarn were as shown in Table 1. The results of the individual examples and comparative examples are described in detail below.

Comparative Example-1 A partially stretched yarn and a stretched yarn of a conventional mottled yarn were subjected to false fluid processing and then false twisted. The thick portion was composed of the undrawn portion and the core yarn (drawn yarn), and the difference in yarn length was obtained in the false twisting process, but the thin portion had almost no difference in yarn length, and was just a false twisted yarn. The texture and touch were examined as a woven fabric by twisting, but there was a sense of discomfort due to grittyness.

Example 1 A partially twisted yarn is excessively supplied, and a drawn yarn and a disturbing fluid treatment are applied to perform false twisting. In addition to having reticular unevenness, there was a yarn length difference across the entire yarn in the length direction. In addition, when actually making a woven fabric and examined, it was found that the entanglement was sufficient and the core yarn and the side yarn were not separated from the skin, and the weaving could be smoothly performed. The texture and touch were good, with large span-like spots and color difference spots. The false twisting process was also smooth.

Example-2 In the same manner as in Example-1, a case where an undrawn yarn is used for the core yarn. The process from false twisting to weaving was very smooth, and a woven fabric could be obtained without any trouble. Regarding the feeling and unevenness, the spun yarn wind was applied as in Example 1.

Comparative Example-2 The same as in Example-1, but the excess supply amount of the partially drawn yarn was small, and there was substantially no difference in yarn length in the thin portion. When I made it into a woven fabric and examined it, it was gritty.

Example-3 Same as Example-2, but with the partially drawn yarn obtained from a high speed spun yarn. The difference in yarn length was found throughout the yarn, and both the thin and thick colors had a relatively small expression. The texture and touch were also good. Further, the false twist temperature is as high as 185 ° C. and the crystallinity is advanced, but the molecular orientation of the unstretched part is relatively advanced and some single fiber breakage occurs,
There was no hindrance in the false twisting process.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing a side surface of an example of the spotted structure yarn of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing a yarn manufacturing apparatus of the present invention.

 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── --Continued from the front page (56) Reference JP-A-59-116434 (JP, A) JP-A-52-40647 (JP, A) JP-A-52-124951 (JP, A) JP-A-63- 105134 (JP, A)

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A false twist structure yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester multifilaments having different yarn lengths, which has a yarn length difference over substantially the entire length of the structural yarn, and the filament having the longer yarn length is The yarn having a thickness unevenness in the length direction, the difference in the yarn length of the thick portion is larger than the difference in the yarn length of the thin portion of the filament having the thickness unevenness, and the structural yarn has a mixed fiber entanglement. Polyester mottled structure yarn characterized by being. 2. A partially disturbed or semi-stretched polyester multifilament fluff yarn having substantially thickness unevenness and a polyester unstretched or stretched uniform multifilament yarn having substantially no thickness unevenness are combined to form a disturbing fluid. When performing the treatment, 5% of the former partially stretched or semi-stretched polyester multifilament mottled yarn having substantially uneven thickness is used.
A method for producing a polyester uneven structure yarn, which comprises over-supplied the above to impart entanglement, and then false twisting or simultaneously drawing false twisting.