JPH0733639B2 - Increased amount of silk thread and dyeing method - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for increasing or / and dyeing a silk yarn, particularly a silk yarn which is a constituent yarn of Oshima Tsumugi.

[Prior Art] Oshima Tsumugi is a traditional craft that represents Kagoshima Prefecture. It is a dyed fabric when distinguished from the dyeing method. Among them, Mud Oshima pongee, which is a typical example, uses silk thread as a raw material and is widely used as a kimono fabric based on black or dark brown ikat.

The conventional dyeing process is as follows.

First, the Kasuri and the ground thread that form the Kasuri thread are repeatedly moistened with Sharinbai decoction and lime dispersion, and then soaked in Tadamu. By this treatment of mud, the tannin-based compound, which is the coloring component of the ume, is colored brown by the mordant action of iron (II) ions in the mud. This process of mashing and treating the mud is repeated several times to dye the ground yarn and the kasuri with black or dark brown. In addition, tannin-based compounds and clay fine particles are adsorbed on the silk thread by the stepping-in and the mud treatment, and according to the electron micrograph, the clay and the tannin-based compound cover the fiber surface, and the silk thread is 35-40%. Weight increases (Photo 1). Oshima pongee is woven by combining the yarn and the Kasuri fabric, the weight and volume of which are increased by the mud dyeing. It is believed that the unique texture and comfort of Oshima Tsumugi as a traditional craft is largely due to this mud dyeing operation.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The first problem in mud dyeing is that it is not possible to weave a variety of Kasuri patterns that are biased toward a black color due to the use of field mud. That is, the dye components and chemical dyes of plants such as wheel plums react with the heavy metal ions in the mud, and in many cases, they become different from the color of the dye itself. Due to the mixed color due to the reaction with various contained metal ions, there is no choice but to be biased toward a blackish color.

The second problem is that it is difficult to achieve stable and uniform dyeing because the components of the field mud are unstable. That is, the components of the mud are different for each mud, and the components change depending on the frequency of use and the season. Therefore, in order to achieve stable and uniform dyeing, it is important to manage the mud in mud fields. In the traditional industry of wheel ume dyeing, the management and movement of mud fields often depend on many years of experience and intuition.

Therefore, the third problem is that highly skilled engineers must be trained. That is, it is necessary to train skilled engineers having experience and intuition in order to achieve uniform and stable dyeing and to develop a new color fabric.

In view of the above-mentioned conventional problems, the present inventors have completed the present invention as a result of earnest research on the development of colored Oshima pongee based on various types of Kasuri patterns.

That is, an object of the present invention is to produce a woven fabric, in particular a silk woven fabric, having not only a dark color based on black or dark brown but also various desired colors.

Another object is to provide a method by which stable, uniform and reproducible dyeing of such fabrics can be easily achieved without the need for highly skilled techniques.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a silk fabric which has a soft texture and comfort similar to that of conventional Oshima pongee by eliminating the luster peculiar to silk yarn by moderate increase.

[Means for Solving the Problems] The present invention for achieving the above object is characterized in that a silk thread is impregnated with an aqueous zeolite dispersion solution containing a silane coupling agent, and then dried. Is further impregnated with a zeolite-dispersed aqueous solution containing, and further subjected to a dyeing treatment on the silk thread on which zeolite is fixed,
Then, the method is a method for increasing the amount of silk yarn and / or a dyeing method, which comprises drying.

The silane coupling agent is preferably an aminosilane coupling agent.

Further, the preferable contents of the silane coupling agent and the zeolite in the aqueous solution are 0.5 to 3% by weight and 0.1 to respectively.
It is 5% by weight.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The zeolite applied to the present invention is a white porous silicate crystal, and it is preferable to use one having a uniform particle size of 40 μm or less and a uniform composition. Such zeolites are commercially available, both synthetic and natural, and are easily available.
Among them, synthetic products having excellent homogeneity, such as A-type or P-type zeolite, are particularly preferably used.

The silane coupling agent has a silane group in its molecular structure and easily reacts with zeolite which is a silicate. Further, it has a vinyl group, a glycid group, an amino group, a mercapto group and the like and reacts with organic substances such as fibers.
In the present invention, the aminosilane coupling agent is most effective for increasing the amount of silk yarn by the zeolite treatment, as will be shown in Examples described later.

The silk thread increasing process and dyeing process according to the method of the present invention uses zeolite and a silane coupling agent in place of the field mud used in the conventional Oshima pongee increasing and dyeing method. It is similar to the dyeing operation.

That is, in the increase processing, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight
The aqueous solution containing the silane coupling agent is preferably 0.1
A treatment bath in which ˜5% by weight of zeolite (having a particle size of preferably 40 μm or less) is dispersed is used. Soak the white silk thread in a zeolite dispersion of about 5 to 20 times the weight of the silk thread and thoroughly mix it. By repeating this rubbing operation, the adsorption amount of zeolite can be increased. For example,
Aminosilane coupling agent and A-type zeolite and P
As a result of using the type zeolite and the above operation method 10 times, the weight increase of the treated silk was found to be about 10%.
On the other hand, in the case of the control in which the silane coupling agent was not used, the weight increase of the silk thread by the ten times of the rubbing operation was only about 1%.

The treated silk thread increased by about 10% does not have the unique luster of silk thread,
The texture is as soft as mud-dyed silk.

In the case of dyeing with ume, the ume extract is used for about 3 times, and then the zeolite dispersion is used. This operation is repeated to increase the adsorption amount of the zeolite and the tannin-based compound on the silk thread. That is, when wheel ume dyeing and zeolite extension processing are combined, the one using the aminosilane coupling agent gives a weight increase of 10% or more and is dyed in a dark color (Photo 2a). It was confirmed that the control without the coupling agent had a small increase in weight and was dyed in a light brown color, and the luster of the silk thread remained (Photo 2b).

In addition, when dyeing with a chemical dye, the dye is immersed in the zeolite dispersion for about 15 times, then soaked in the dye solution for dyeing, and further immersed in the zeolite dispersion. Again, 10
% Weight gain was obtained and the luster of the silk thread disappeared (Photo
3a). On the other hand, in the case of only dyeing with chemical dyes,
It was confirmed that the increase in weight was less than 1% and the luster of the silk thread remained (Photo 3b).

Thus far, there has been no example of treating a silk thread with zeolite to produce a woven fabric. In addition, there is no report on a method for treating silk yarn with a silane coupling agent.

[Operation] Since the zeolite used in the present invention has a uniform composition and particle size, it has good dyeing reproducibility and is stable and easy to dye uniformly. However, since the silk thread to which the present invention is applied is an organic substance, zeolite which is an inorganic substance is not adsorbed only by the rubbing treatment. In the present invention, a silane coupling agent is used to adsorb zeolite on the silk thread. As described above, the silane coupling agent has a silane group in its molecular structure and easily reacts with the zeolite which is a silicate, and at the same time, also reacts with a vinyl group, a glycid group, an amino group, a mercapto group, etc. It also has a volatile organic group and reacts with organic substances such as fibers. Due to the action of the silane coupling agent, the zeolite and the silk thread are strongly bound to each other through the silane coupling agent, and a silk thread having a high weight and volume increase ratio required for the conventional texture of mud dyeing can be obtained.

Furthermore, the dye is uniformly adsorbed and fixed by the excellent dye adsorption action of the zeolite, which is a white porous crystal, and excellent dyeing stability is obtained.

[Examples] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples.

Example 1 20 g of A-type zeolite and 100 g of a silane coupling agent (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. KBE-903) were dispersed in 10 water. About 5 times the amount of the zeolite dispersion liquid with respect to the silk thread is placed in a bowl, and the silk thread is soaked and evenly embedded for about 2 to 5 minutes. The zeolite dispersion is changed and the above-mentioned mashing operation is repeated.
After drying, wash with 0.1% detergent (brand name, azoline) and further
0.3% silicone type auxiliary agent (trade name, light silicone M80
7S). Silicone auxiliaries were used to improve friction fastness. The weight increase of the treated silk yarn when it was repeated 10 times was 9%.

In the control in which the same operation was performed without using the silane coupling agent, the weight increase of the treated silk yarn was less than 1%.

Example 2 Using P-type zeolite, treatment concentration, operating conditions, etc.
The silk yarn was treated in the same manner as in Example 1. The weight increase of the treated silk yarn when treated 10 times was 10%.

In the case of the control without using the silane coupling agent, the weight increase of the treated silk yarn was 0.6%.

Example 3 A dyeing operation with a 0.5% tannin compound (trade name: Kutch) and a zeolite treatment operation were used in combination. The same zeolite dispersion as in Example 1 was used 3 times, and then 0.5% tannin-based solution, which was about 5 times the weight of the silk, was used 3 times. When the rubbing operation with both of these was repeated twice, the weight increase of the treated silk yarn was 9%. Macbeth Color Eye MS-202
The lightness index (L *) measured at 5 was 53.

On the other hand, in the case of the control without using the silane coupling agent, the weight increase of the treated silk yarn was 4% and the lightness index was 80.

It can be seen that the color development is significantly improved by the method of the present invention using a silane coupling agent.

Example 4 First, the silk thread is immersed in a boiling water bath of the same tannin-based compound as in Example 3 (about 50 times the weight of the silk thread) and allowed to cool for about 3 hours. Thereafter, the same procedure as in Example 1 was repeated with the zeolite dispersion.
3 times with cold tannin solution. After drying, the treatment from the hot bath is repeated. The weight increase of the treated silk yarn was 12% and the lightness index was 48.

On the other hand, in the control without using the silane coupling agent, the weight increase of the treated silk yarn was 7% and the lightness index was 66.

It can be seen that the dyeing effect is improved by using the silane coupling agent.

Example 5 Silk yarn was treated with zeolite under the same conditions as in Example 2. Ten
After the dyeing treatment, it was immersed in a boiling dyeing bath of the direct dye Serious Fast Yellow GG for 2 minutes, allowed to cool for 2 hours for dyeing, and further treated with zeolite 10 times. The weight gain was 12% and the luster of the silk thread had disappeared. (Photo 3a).

When dyeing in a boiling dye bath without zeolite treatment,
The weight increase was 0.3%, and the luster of silk thread remained (Photo 3b).

Example 6 Kasuri lichens dye-proofed with a cotton thread were dyed by the method of Example 3. No permeation of the dye into the cotton-dyed area was observed. Therefore, it can be seen that the method of the present invention can be used as a pre-dyeing dyeing method for producing Oshima pongee.

Example 7 Oshima pongee kneaded silk yarn was dyed by zeolite treatment using P-type zeolite and a cut by the method shown in Example 3, and then 0.3% silicone-based auxiliary agent (light silicone M807S)
A dyed yarn treated with was prepared. A small test cloth was woven using this dyed silk thread. Woven width is 40c as standard for woven cloth
m, warp and weft were plain woven with a yarn density of 28 yarns / cm.
As a result of testing the test cloth with a friction fastness tester, results of grades 3 to 4 were obtained. This result is similar to the result obtained with mud dyed Oshima pongee. The test cloth did not have the gloss and slipperiness of the silk fabric, and a texture similar to that of the mud-dyed fabric was obtained.

[Effect of the Invention] According to the method of the present invention, a silk fabric having a soft texture and comfort similar to that of conventional Oshima pongee is provided by eliminating the luster peculiar to silk yarn by an appropriate amount increase. .

Further, the conventional mud Oshima pongee was based on black or dark brown, but according to the method of the present invention, since the color of the dye itself adsorbed on the zeolite is developed, if it is only the dark color as described above. Without a woven fabric of various desired colors,
In particular, it is possible to weave a woven fabric with a variety of Kasuri patterns, which was not possible with conventional mud Oshima tsumugi. In addition, if you use light-colored Kasuri as a base, it will be easier to develop Kimono that can be used for visiting clothes like Yuzen by combining it with printing, which is a dyeing technique.

The main difference of the method of the present invention from the conventional technique is that zeolite is used in place of the mud, so that no special technical training or capital investment is required.

Furthermore, since zeolite has a uniform particle size and a constant composition,
Because it is easy to stain with good stability and reproducibility,
It does not require highly skilled skills that rely on experience and intuition.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a scanning electron micrograph of monofilament of mud-dyed silk yarn. FIG. 2 is a photograph of dyed silk yarn dyed by catch dye, a is zeolite treated with a silane coupling agent according to the method of the present invention, and b is a zeolite treated without silane coupling agent for comparison. Shows what has been done. Figure 3 is a photograph of silk dyed with direct dye,
a is a combination of zeolite treatment according to the method of the present invention,
For comparison, “b” shows the one that was not treated with zeolite.

Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification number Office reference number FI technical display location D06P 5/00 106 // D06M 101: 12

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A method for increasing the amount of a silk yarn, which comprises impregnating the silk yarn with an aqueous zeolite dispersion solution containing a silane coupling agent and then drying. 2. A method for dyeing a silk thread, which comprises subjecting the silk thread to an impregnation treatment with a zeolite dispersion aqueous solution containing a silane coupling agent, a dyeing treatment, and then drying. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the silane coupling agent is an aminosilane coupling agent. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous solution contains 0.5 to 3% by weight of silane coupling agent and 0.1 to 5% by weight of zeolite with respect to water.