JPH07118903A - Sewing of outer collar of outerwear - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a method for sewing the outer collar of an outerwear, capable of making an excellent crossover line in spite of its simpleness of the sewing work. CONSTITUTION:This method for sewing the outer collar of an outerwear is composed of the 1st process for making a U-shaped cut part 2 in the front body cloth to which an outside collar above the peaked lapel 1 of the outerwear is sewn according to the cutting method, the 2nd process for machine-sewing a supplement cloth 3 composed of a thin fabric and having a large size enough to cover the cut part to a cut cloth for the front body the 3rd process for putting the outer collar, the facing cloth and the supplement cloth in layers so that the facing cloth 5 may be in contact with the right side fabric of the outer collar and simultaneously sewing them, and the final process for folding back the seam allowance of the mutually sewn supplement cloth and facing cloth toward the front body cloth side and the seam allowance of the outer collar in the opposite direction.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an improvement in a method for easily and neatly sewing a top collar, which has been difficult to produce a gorge line in sewing a garment.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As a conventional sewing method for an upper collar of an upper garment, as shown in FIGS. 6 to 8, a front body cloth a and a body return section of a front body cloth a above a sword tip (lapel tip) portion 1 are sewn together. When the cloth b and the upper collar sewn portion 6a are overlapped and sewn together, and after sewing, the seam allowance of the return cloth b is bent 180 degrees and pressed between the front cloth a and the return cloth b. A method is adopted in which the seam allowance 6a and the protruding portion of the front body cloth a are sewn together to rotate the upper collar. This is for preventing thickening around the gorge line when the front cloth a, the return cloth b and the seam allowance 6a of the upper collar are sewn in three layers.

[0003]

However, in such a conventional sewing method, the seam allowance of the return collar is bent after the end piece and the upper collar are sewn, and the seam allowance of the upper collar is sewn with the protrusion of the front body cloth. As a result, the sewing work takes time and the upper collar crossover line (gorge line) is difficult to stabilize. In addition, the front part cloth and the upper collar fabric overlap with each other on the part where the cross stitch is sewn, and because the sewn part of the counter part and the upper collar part and the sewn part of the front part cloth and the upper collar part overlap along the gorge line, There is the inconvenience that the area near the line becomes thick and hard and the gorge line and the return line become awkward. Therefore, the present invention has been made in view of the drawbacks of the prior art, and an object of the present invention is to provide a sewing method in which the upper collar is easily sewn and the cross-over stitch portion does not become thick.

[0004]

[Means for Solving the Problems] That is, according to the present invention, a step of forming a U-shaped cutout portion by cutting on a front cloth for sewing an upper collar above a sword tip (lapel tip) of a garment, and the cutout portion. A step of sewing a separate cloth made of a thin cloth having a size enough to cover the front body cloth with a sewing machine, and the upper collar, the facing cloth and the upper collar, the facing cloth and the upper collar in a state of being brought into contact with each other. The purpose of the present invention is to sew the upper collar of the upper garment, which comprises the step of simultaneously sewing the separate cloth and the step of folding the sewing margin of the sewn separate cloth and the facing cloth to the front cloth side and folding the upper collar seam allowance on the opposite side. To achieve.

[0005]

In the sewing method of the present invention, the U-shaped cutout is provided by cutting the portion of the front cloth that is to be sewn together, so that the front cloth is removed from the portion to be sewn. Instead, there is a thin cloth sewn on the front cloth. Next, the return stitch, the upper collar and the separate cloth are sewn at the same time to complete the cross stitch, and the upper collar is turned over to be in a state of being connected to the different cloth. Then, by folding back the sewn part of the facing cloth and another cloth to the front body cloth side and turning the upper collar seam allowance to the opposite side, and then turning the upper collar, the upper collar and the tip of the sword (the lapel tip)
A clear gorge line appears at the boundary between and.

[0006]

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the illustrated embodiments. In the figure, reference numeral 1 denotes a sword tip (lapel tip) portion of the front body cloth a, and a U-shaped cutout portion 2 is provided by cutting at a portion above the sword tip (lapel tip) portion 1 to be connected to the upper collar. Next, as shown in FIG. 2, another cloth 3 made of a thin cloth is sewn at a position 0.4 cm from the cutting of the lining portion of the front cloth a provided with the cutout portion 2. This separate cloth 3
Is a size that covers the notch 2 with a cloth slightly larger than the notch 2.

Further, the one shown in FIG. 3 has a front cloth a and a back b.
And are overlapped and the front ground stitching (reference numeral 4) is performed to complete the front body. Next, the return cloth 5 and the separate cloth 3 located in the cutout portion 2 so that the body trim b and the upper collar outer material of a predetermined shape come into contact with each other.
And, the seam allowance 6a of the upper collar 6 is overlapped, and in this state, these are simultaneously sewn to perform cross stitching (reference numeral 7). Then, the sewn portions of the return cloth 5 and the separate cloth 3 are folded back to the front cloth a side, and the seam allowance 6a of the upper collar is folded back to the opposite side, and then ironed. The upper collar lining is sewn and the upper collar attachment is completed. Then, by rolling the upper collar 6 along the return line, a cross stitch line is formed on the sword tip (lapel tip) 1 line on the body.

In the sewing method according to the present embodiment having the above-described structure, the notch 2 is provided by cutting in the portion of the front cloth a to be sewn together, and the cut portion and the separate cloth 3 are sewn. Therefore, the separate cloth 3 is firmly fixed. In addition, the cross stitch is performed by simultaneously sewing the seam allowance 6a of the upper collar 6, the return cloth 5 and the separate cloth 3 by simple overlap stitching,
It can be easily sewn with straight stitches such as sewing machines. The sewn portion of the facing cloth 5 and the separate cloth 3 is on the front cloth a side, and the seam allowance 6a of the upper collar
Is folded back to the opposite side and ironed, so that one of the
One piece of the upper collar cloth and the other piece is composed of the two pieces of the facing cloth 5 and the separate cloth 3, and the difference in thickness between the two is small. That is, the presence of the cutout portion 2 provided in the front cloth makes the front cloth thinner by one sheet.

[0009]

As described above, the sewing method according to the present invention,
Since only the seam allowance of the upper collar, the facing cloth and another cloth are sewn together, unlike the conventional method, cross stitching is extremely easy and the gorge line after sewing is also beautiful. In addition, a cutout is provided in the sewn part of the front body cloth for sewn stitches, and a thin separate cloth is sewn instead, so the sewn part does not become thick even when sewn in cross stitches, and the collar return line is clean. You can

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a partial front view of a front body cloth before forming a front body.

FIG. 2 is a view showing a state in which a notch is provided in a front body cloth and another cloth is sewn in the cut, a is a partial front view, and b is a partial sectional view.

FIG. 3 is a view showing a state in which a facing cloth is applied to the front cloth, a is a partial front view, and b is a partial sectional view.

FIG. 4 shows a state in which an upper collar is sewn on the body, a
Is a partial front view and b is a partial sectional view.

FIG. 5 shows a state in which the upper collar is sewn on the body and then turned over, where a is a partial front view and b is a partial sectional view.

FIG. 6 is a partial front view of a front body cloth before forming a front body according to a conventional technique.

FIG. 7 is a view showing a state in which a facing cloth is applied to a front cloth according to a conventional technique, wherein a is a partial front view and b is a partial sectional view.

FIG. 8 is a view showing a state in which an upper collar is sewn on a body according to a conventional technique, in which a is a partial front view, b is a partial sectional view, and c is a partial sectional view in which the upper collar is folded back.

[Explanation of symbols]

 a front part b look back 1 sword tip (lapel tip) 2 cutout part 3 separate cloth 4 foreground sewn part 5 look back cloth 6 upper collar 6a upper collar seam allowance 7 cross stitching part

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A step of providing a U-shaped cutout portion by cutting on a front cloth for sewing an upper collar above a sword tip of a garment, and another cloth of a thin cloth having a size enough to cover the cutout portion. A step of sewing the front cloth with a sewing machine, a step of sewing the upper collar, the facing cloth and another cloth at the same time with the returning cloth and the upper collar outer surface abutting each other; and A method for sewing an upper collar of an upper garment, which comprises a step of folding the cloth and the facing cloth to the front cloth side and folding the upper collar seam to the opposite side.