JPH07109630A - Differently shrinkable combined filament yarn having yarn slippage preventing effect - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a differently shrinkable combined filament yarn capable of providing a spun silk-like high-class woven or knitted fabric having yarn slippage-preventing function and simultaneously soft handle with fluff feeling and rich swelling feeling by weaving or knitting. CONSTITUTION:This differently shrinkable combined filament yarn partially has thick fineness parts in fiber axial direction. Highly shrinkable yarn and low shrinkable yarn both constituting the differently shrinkable combined filament yarn each having a modified cross section compose a fiber with alternately and nearly uniformly distributing projection parts 2 to cause fine grooves on the surface of the fiber. The cross sections of the projection parts 2 and the fine grooves 3 exhibit rectangular or trapezoid shape and they continue in the fiber axial direction and the number and the dimensions of the projection parts 2 satisfy the following formulas I to III. (I): 15<=N<=35; (II): 0.3<=W<=1; (III): 1.5W<=H<=3W, wherein N is number of projection parts; W is width (mum) of the projection part; H is height (mum) of the projection part.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention, when knitted or woven, has a function of preventing misregistration, and also provides a high-quality woven and knitted fabric of span silk having a soft texture with a fluffy feeling and a rich swelling feeling. It relates to yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Many proposals have been made for modified cross-section fibers, and they have been applied to improve the gloss and feel of synthetic fibers. However, since most of them are produced by a method of spinning with irregular shaped discharge holes, it is difficult to obtain irregularly shaped cross-sectioned yarns having sharp edges. It was not possible to improve the mating surface and eliminate the so-called waxy feeling of synthetic fibers.

Recently, as a modified cross-section fiber having sharp edges, polymers having different physical properties are composite-spun,
A modified fiber has been proposed in which one component is removed by utilizing the difference in the dissolution rate and the decomposition rate of the polymer that constitutes the fiber. As an example of this fiber, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 59-192709 discloses a composite fiber in which a homopolyester and a copolyester are arranged at rotationally symmetric positions and which have a large and small thickness in the axial direction of the fiber. Further, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-145825, a modified cross-section fiber having a sharp edge obtained by subjecting a composite fiber, which is a different shrinkage mixed fiber, to an alkali treatment and dissolving a part of a copolyester portion is obtained. It is disclosed.
However, the modified cross-section yarns obtained by these techniques are
There are few sharp projections in the cross section, and when it is a woven or knitted product,
It was possible to improve the gloss and eliminate the waxy feeling, but it was not possible to give a fluffy feeling.

Furthermore, Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 4-65506 and 4-
Japanese Patent No. 91213 discloses a modified cross-section fiber composed of a stem component and a protrusion component on the circumference of the stem component. In these fibers, part of the protrusion component is separated from the stem component,
By cutting the separated parts, the fibers are given a soft texture, but these fibers have the drawback that the fluff parts fall off during wearing and become pills.

A woven or knitted fabric made of silk-like polyester fiber is usually treated with an alkali to improve its texture. Most of this treatment is performed after making it into a cloth, and a weight loss of about 20 to 30% is usually applied.
The texture and density of the fabric are set in advance according to the weight reduction rate. When the weight reduction rate is increased, generally, the density of the cloth is increased, and this is to prevent misalignment of the cloth after the weight reduction processing. However, in the case of making a thin fabric having a good texture by weight reduction treatment, misalignment often occurs, and spun silk-like fibers that positively consider misalignment prevention have not been proposed yet. .

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of conventional modified cross-section fibers, and is suitable for forming a high-quality spun silk-like woven or knitted fabric with a feeling of fluff and a rich bulge. Further, it is a technical subject to provide a different shrinkage mixed fiber having an effect of preventing misalignment due to weight reduction.

[0007]

The present inventors have arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems. That is, the present invention is a heterogeneous-shrink mixed yarn partially having a large fineness portion in the fiber axis direction, in which each of the high-shrinkage yarn and the low-shrinkage yarn has a protrusion and a narrow groove on the fiber surface. Alternately, and is composed of irregularly-shaped cross-section fibers that are substantially uniformly distributed, and the cross-sections of the protrusions and the narrow grooves are rectangular or substantially trapezoidal, and each is continuous in the fiber axis direction, and
The object is to provide a different shrinkage mixed fiber having an effect of preventing misalignment, characterized in that the number and size of the protrusions satisfy the following expressions. 15 ≦ N ≦ 35 ─── 0.3 ≦ W ≦ 1 ─── 1.5W ≦ H ≦ 3W ─── However, N is the number of protrusions, W is the width of the protrusion (μm), and H is the height of the protrusion. (Μm).

The present invention will be described in detail below.

As shown in FIG. 1, the modified cross-section fibers constituting the different-shrinkage mixed filament yarn of the present invention have a plurality of (20 in FIG. 1) projections 2 continuous on the surface of the fiber 1 in the fiber axis direction. There are as many U-shaped thin grooves 3 as the number of the protrusions 2 between the adjacent protrusions 2.

In order to impart the effect of preventing misalignment, which is the object of the present invention, the protrusions 2 and the narrow grooves 3 of the modified cross-section fiber are provided.
It is necessary to make the cross-sectional shape of the rectangle rectangular or substantially trapezoidal. When the shape of the narrow groove 3 is a triangle, the protrusion 2 has a trapezoidal shape in which the lengths of the bottom surface and the top surface are greatly different, which makes it difficult for the protrusion 2 to be deformed and reduces the misalignment prevention effect, which is not preferable.

The number (N) of the protrusions 2 must be 15 to 35. When the number (N) of the protrusions 2 is 14 or less, the desired fluff feeling is not sufficiently expressed, and it is not possible to impart a spun silk-like feel to the cloth. On the other hand, when the number (N) of the protrusions 2 is 36 or more, the texture with no fluff is lost,
The desired texture cannot be obtained due to the stone wash or peach face tone.

Next, it is a partial enlarged cross-sectional view of the modified cross-section fiber regarding the relationship between the width (W) and the height (H) of the protrusions of the modified cross-section fiber of the different shrinkage mixed fiber of the present invention. 3 will be used for the explanation. In FIG. 3, the line of the side surface of the protrusion 2 is extended, the intersections of the circumscribed circles of the vertices of the protrusion 2 are A and B, and the intersections of the inscribed circle that is in contact with the deepest part of the narrow groove are A ′ and B ′. Minute A-
The midpoints of B and the line segment A′-B ′ are defined as C and C ′. (A) Width of protrusion (W) ... Length of line segment AB. (B) Height of protrusion (H) ... Length of line segment CC ′.

In the modified cross-section fiber of the different shrinkage mixed yarn of the present invention, the width (W) and the height (H) of the protruding portion must satisfy the above expressions. That is, the width of the protrusion (W)
Must be in the range 0.3 to 1 μm. If the width (W) of the protrusion is less than 0.3 μm, fibrillation occurs when worn and the peach face feels, and the desired span silk-like feel cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when it exceeds 1 μm, a feeling of roughness is generated, which is not preferable.

Next, the height (H) of the protrusion is related to the width (W) of the protrusion, and it is necessary to set it in the range of 1.5 to 3 times the width (W) of the protrusion. When the height (H) of the protrusion is less than 1.5 times the width (W) of the protrusion, the effect of preventing misalignment decreases, and when it exceeds 3 times, the texture of span silk does not occur and the purpose is I can't get the feeling.

When the height (H) of the protrusion and the width (W) of the protrusion satisfy the above formula, the reason why the effect of preventing misalignment is improved is not clear, but it is recognized that the reason is as follows. . That is, when a cloth in which other fibers intersect at right angles to the differently shrinkage mixed yarn of the present invention, the protrusion height (H) intersects less than 1.5 times the protrusion width (W). Since the protrusions are less likely to be deformed by the force of the fibers, the gripping force with the fibers orthogonal to each other is small. On the other hand, the height of the protrusion (H)
When becomes 1.5 times or more the width (W) of the protrusion, the protrusion deforms and the gripping force increases. Therefore, even if the weight reduction rate is high, the gripping force is stable, and the effect of preventing misalignment can be exerted.

Further, according to the present invention, a high-shrinkage yarn and a low-shrinkage yarn composed of modified cross-section fibers having the above-mentioned cross-sectional shape and partially having a large fineness portion in the fiber axis direction are mixed. It needs to be refined. By using the differently-shaped cross-section fibers partially having the large fineness portion as the different shrinkage mixed yarn, a yarn length difference occurs between the yarns due to the relaxation heat treatment when the fabric is formed, and this yarn length difference is A small loop is formed on the surface, and due to the difference in fineness between the large fineness and the fineness, the natural appearance of natural fibers is exhibited. It becomes a woven and knitted fabric with a bulge.

When there is a difference in the boiling water shrinkage ratio only when the thick fine portion is partially present, there is a slight unevenness due to the difference in fineness between the thick fine portion and the fine fine portion, or the thick fine portion which is slightly stretched. Only the slab-like texture can be exhibited due to the difference in the dye adsorption due to the difference in the degree of orientation from the finely stretched portion that is sufficiently stretched. Further, when only the different shrinkage mixed filament yarn does not have the large fineness portion, only the loop of the yarn length difference due to the relaxation heat treatment is expressed,
The quality is significantly reduced.

If the number of large fineness portions in the heterogeneous-shrink mixed yarn of the present invention is too small, a soft feeling is emphasized. Therefore, when measured in the state of the hetero-shrink mixed yarn, the number is 15 / m or more in the fiber axis direction. Preferably present.

In the present invention, it is preferable that the heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn has a large fineness portion of 15 pieces / m or more in the fiber axis direction. However, in any cross-sectional direction of the yarn, it is different. A large fineness portion may be present in all the modified cross-section fibers constituting the shrinkage mixed fiber, or a large fineness portion may be present in some modified cross-section fibers. However, in order to operate efficiently during weaving or in the preparation step, it is preferable that the large fineness portion and the fineness fineness portion are present at random, and especially when performing false twist crimping, fusion of the large fineness portion is performed. It is possible to prevent yarn breakage.

Furthermore, since the different shrinkage mixed yarn of the present invention may be subjected to false twist crimping or alkali weight reduction after weaving / knitting, the large fineness portion has heat resistance or chemical resistance. For that purpose, for example, it is preferable to wind the yarn at a high speed in the spinning step to produce the different shrinkage mixed yarn from the semi-undrawn yarn or the like which is highly oriented in advance.

Further, the difference in boiling water shrinkage of the different shrinkage mixed yarn is not particularly limited, but the boiling water shrinkage of the highly shrinkable yarn is 50% or less, and the highly shrinkable yarn and the low shrinkable yarn. The difference in boiling water shrinkage between the strips is preferably 5% or more. When the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the highly shrinkable yarn exceeds 50%, the fabric tends to have a hard texture due to thermal shrinkage. Further, when the difference in shrinkage rate of boiling water is less than 5%, the difference in shrinkage rate is small, and when the cloth is used, the texture is likely to be paper-like.

Further, the boiling water shrinkage of the low-shrinkage yarn constituting the different-shrink mixed yarn is preferably 5% or more. In order to reduce the boiling water shrinkage of the low shrinkable yarn to less than 5%, it is necessary to perform heat treatment at a high temperature, but when the yarn makes contact with and passes through a heating plate or a yarn-contacting body during heat treatment, Due to the frictional tension with the running yarn or the contraction tension of the fineness portion due to heat, a part or most of the large fineness portion partially developed in the yarn is stretched and the fineness is increased. The area is sharply reduced as compared with that before the heat treatment, and the tension of the running yarn is largely changed due to the high temperature of the heat treatment, which is likely to cause the yarn breakage.

The different shrinkage mixed yarn of the present invention is polyester,
Although it can be applied to fibers such as polyamide and polyacrylic, polyester fibers are preferable. As the polyester, not only a homopolyester but also an ordinary copolymerized polyester may be used.
It is possible to add commonly used additives, matting agents, antistatic agents, antioxidants and the like.

The different shrinkage mixed yarn of the present invention can be used not only as a natural yarn but also as a yarn which has been subjected to various processes such as false twisting, strong twisting and air entanglement treatment. In particular, it is preferable to use a natural yarn that is unlikely to develop a spun silk-like feel with a normal yarn.

Next, an example of a method for producing the different shrinkage mixed fiber of the present invention will be described.

First, the easily-eluting component α and the difficult-eluting component β, which are polymers having different solubilities in solvents such as alkalis, are used.
Composite spinning of the components, winding the semi-unstretched yarn in two,
As shown in FIG. 2, the hard-to-dissolve component β is the core component, and the easily-dissolvable component α is the sheath component, and each of the core and sheath components has 15 to 35 U-shaped parts (20 in FIG. 2). Two semi-undrawn yarns consisting of undrawn yarns of composite fibers are obtained.

Next, the obtained two semi-unstretched yarns are simultaneously drawn to form a large fineness portion and a fineness fine portion, and then only one yarn is heat-treated to obtain a low shrinkage yarn, It is wound together with a heat-shrinkable high-strength yarn to obtain a different shrinkage mixed yarn. Further, the different shrinkage mixed yarn is treated with a solvent such as alkali to elute the easily-eluting component α, and 15 to 35 (20 in FIG. 1) protrusions as shown in FIG. A yarn composed of modified cross-section fibers having 2 and fine grooves 3 is obtained.

The easily-eluting component α used in the above is preferably one having a dissolution rate in an alkaline aqueous solution which is 5 times or more faster than that of the hardly-eluting component β. For this reason, for example, in the case of polyester fiber, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is used as the difficult-to-dissolve component β, PET having 2.5 mol% or more of a metal sulfonate salt copolymerized as the easily-eluting component α, and a relatively high molecular weight with the sulfonate metal salt. It is preferable to use PET or the like obtained by copolymerizing a predetermined amount of the above polyalkylene glycol.

In order to obtain a yarn having a large fineness portion and a fineness portion from a composite-spun undrawn yarn or semi-undrawn yarn, a known method can be adopted, for example, undrawn yarn or semi-undrawn yarn. When the yarn is drawn, there is a method of bringing it into contact with the friction resistor in the drawing region. Further, as the friction resistor used above, a ceramic mainly composed of alumina, titanium oxide, etc., a chromium-plated matte-finished steel, etc. molded into a cylindrical shape are generally used, and heating or cooling is performed as necessary. To be done.

FIG. 4 is a schematic process drawing of a stretching device used in the above stretching process. In FIG. 4, the semi-undrawn yarn 4,
5 was wrapped around the supply roller 7 several times via the guides 6 and 6, then traveled while coming into contact with the friction resistor 8 to reach the stretching roller 9, and was also wrapped around the stretching roller 9 several times. It is stretched in the state to form a large fineness portion and a fineness fine portion. Next, the heating plate 10
Is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment in contact with the sheet, passes through the guide 11, is aligned with the highly shrinkable yarns not subjected to the relaxation heat treatment and the guide 12, is focused by the focusing roller 13 and is wound up on the pan 14. In this case, the friction resistance element 8 causes a large fineness portion to appear,
By changing the distance between the friction resistor 8 and the stretching roller 9, the number of appearances of the large fineness portion can be adjusted.

[0031]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, the measuring method and each evaluation in an Example were performed with the following method. (1) Relative viscosity Using an equal weight mixed solvent of phenol and ethane tetrachloride,
It was measured at a concentration of 0.5 g / dl and a temperature of 20 ° C. (2) Dimension of protrusions The yarn is knitted into a cylinder, and after removing easily eluted components completely by alkali reduction under the conditions of NaOH concentration 4%, treatment temperature 90 ° C, treatment time 30 minutes, washed and dried cylinder Dismantle a part of the knitted fabric,
The cross section of the modified cross-section fiber constituting the obtained yarn was photographed with a scanning electron microscope and measured on the photograph. (3) Number of large fineness portions A yarn having a large fineness portion partially in the fiber axis direction was measured with an Ibnesteaster manufactured by Keisokuki Kogyo Co., Ltd., a yarn speed of 8 m / min, a chart speed of 0.25 m / min, and a sensitivity of ± 50. The unevenness of thickness was measured for a yarn of 8 m under the condition of%, peaks exceeding 5% were counted with respect to the waveform of the base, and the peak was converted per 1 m to obtain the number of thick fine portions. (4) Shrinkage rate of boiling water Threads with different shrinkage rate of boiling water are pulled out from the pirn, divided into high-shrinkage thread and low-shrinkage thread and skeined with a scale, respectively, and then 1/30 (g / d The initial length L ₀ was measured under the load of).
Next, the yarn was contracted by immersing it in boiling water for 30 minutes under no load. After air-drying, the length L ₁ after contraction was measured again under a load of 1/30 (g / d), and the contraction rate of boiling water was calculated by the following formula. Shrinkage rate of boiling water (%) = [(L ₀ −L ₁ ) / L ₀ )] × 100 (5) 6 fabric samples with 10 cm × 25 cm misalignment (3 warp directions, 3 weft directions)
For each sheet), after sandwiching each in a holder and applying tension with a load of 2230 g to fix it, fix the holder in the groove of the cross bar, sandwich the fabric sample in a rubber roller and apply a load of 0.9 kg, and then crank at 30 rpm. It was rotated twice at a speed. The fabric sample was then carefully removed from the holder and the largest place between the misaligned threads was measured with a vernier caliper to the nearest 0.1 mm. Three pieces were measured in each of the warp and weft directions, an average value was calculated, and evaluation was performed in the following three stages. A: Less than 4 mm --- Very good B: 4 mm to 8 mm --- Good C: Greater than 8 mm --- Poor (6) Spun silk-like texture Weaving, knitting, dyeing techniques The texture of the spun silk having a value of 3 was evaluated by touch on three levels, and the average was evaluated. A: Very good B: Good C: Poor (7) Comprehensive evaluation The effect was evaluated by taking into account the effect of preventing misalignment and the effect of the feeling of span silk, and was ranked in three stages. A: Very good B: Good C: Poor

Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 PET having a relative viscosity of 1.38 was used as a difficult-to-dissolve component, and 4-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid was 4 mol% as an easily-dissolvable component.
A copolymerized PET having a relative viscosity of 1.27 was used. With a composite ratio that makes the weight ratio of the difficult-to-dissolve component and the easily-dissolvable component 80/20
In addition, the spinning speed is set to 3000 m / min, the spinning temperature is adjusted so that the number and size of the protrusions formed after the alkali reduction is changed.
Spinning was performed using a spinneret having 48 discharge holes at 290 ° C. and a discharge rate of 43 g / min, and the obtained semi-undrawn yarn was divided into two and wound up.

Next, the two semi-undrawn yarns were drawn by using the drawing apparatus shown in FIG. 4 to obtain different shrinkage mixed yarns. In this case, the semi-unstretched yarns 4 and 5 are wrapped around the supply roller 7 several times, and also around the stretch roller 9 heated to 90 ° C. several times, with the cylindrical friction resistor 8 interposed therebetween. 1.35
It was stretched twice to develop a large fineness portion. In this case, the distance between the friction resistor 8 and the stretching roller 9 was variously changed to adjust the number of appearances of the large fineness portion. Subsequently, only the yarn to be the low shrinkage yarn is positively brought into contact with the heating plate 10 at 130 ° C, and then the low shrinkage yarn and the unheated high shrinkage yarn are combined on the focusing roller 13. Threaded and wound into pan 14. Table 1 shows the number of large fineness portions, the boiling water shrinkage ratio, and the shape of the modified cross-section fiber after the alkali treatment of the obtained different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn.

The different-shrink mixed yarn obtained above is woven in a double layer using the warp yarn and the weft yarn, and the resulting fabric is alkali-reduced to completely remove the easily eluted components. Using them, the alkali weight loss rate was measured, the misalignment test and the sensory test of the spun silk texture were conducted, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0035]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the woven fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 4 have a fluffy feeling and a spun silk-like feel with a rich swelling feeling, and also have an excellent effect of preventing misalignment. Was there. Among them, the woven fabric of Example 4 having a small number of large fineness portions had a slightly soft feeling rather than a dry feeling. On the other hand, the woven fabrics of Comparative Example 1 in which the number of protrusions was 10 and Comparative Example 2 in which the number of protrusions was 36 were poor in spun silk-like feel and had large misalignment.

Examples 5 to 7 and Comparative Example 3 Spinning and evaluation were conducted under the same conditions as in Example 2 except that the heat treatment temperature after drawing was adjusted to variously change the boiling water shrinkage difference of the different shrinkage mixed fiber. I went. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0038]

[Table 2]

As is apparent from Table 2, the woven fabrics obtained in Examples 5 to 7 have a fluffy feeling and a spun silk-like feel with a rich swelling feeling, and are also excellent in the effect of preventing misalignment. Was there. On the other hand, the fabric using the mixed fiber of Comparative Example 3 in which there is no difference in the boiling water shrinkage ratio between the single yarns forming the yarn even if the shape of the protrusions and the number of occurrence of the large fineness portion are good is The slippage prevention effect was good, but the texture became papery and there was no rich bulge.

[0040]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The yarn according to the present invention has a different shrinkage which is formed by a modified cross-section fiber having a specific protrusion and a narrow groove on the outer periphery of the fiber and having a part having a large fineness in the axial direction of the fiber. Since it is a mixed yarn, it is possible to give the fabric obtained by weaving and knitting a fluffy feeling and a rich swelling feeling to the spun silk, and furthermore, due to the protrusions, the frictional force between the fibers In particular, a great effect can be exerted in preventing misalignment, which is one of the drawbacks of a woven or knitted fabric with reduced alkali.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing one embodiment of a modified cross-section fiber that constitutes the different-shrinkage mixed filament yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing an embodiment of the fiber before alkali reduction treatment for obtaining the above-mentioned modified cross-section fiber.

FIG. 3 is a partially enlarged schematic view of FIG.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing an embodiment of a stretching device for obtaining the different shrinkage mixed yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Fiber 2 Projection 3 Narrow groove α Easily eluted component β Difficultly eluted component

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code Internal reference number FI technical display location D04B 1/16

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn having a large fineness portion partially in the fiber axis direction, wherein each of the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn has a protrusion and a narrow groove on the fiber surface. Alternating and substantially uniformly distributed modified cross-section fibers, the cross section of the protrusion and the narrow groove is rectangular or substantially trapezoidal, each continuous in the fiber axis direction, and the protrusion The different shrinkage mixed yarn having the effect of preventing misalignment, characterized in that the number and size of the following satisfy the following formulas. 15 ≦ N ≦ 35 ─── 0.3 ≦ W ≦ 1 ─── 1.5W ≦ H ≦ 3W ─── However, N is the number of protrusions, W is the width of the protrusion (μm), and H is the height of the protrusion. (Μm). 2. The heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn having the effect of preventing misalignment according to claim 1, wherein the highly shrinkable yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of 50% or less. 3. The heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn having the effect of preventing misalignment according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the low shrinkage yarn and the high shrinkage yarn is 5% or more. 4. The heterogeneous-shrink mixed yarn having the effect of preventing misalignment according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the number of large fineness portions in the fiber axis direction is 15 pieces / m or more.