JPH06272133A - Production of woven fabric having surface wrinkle effect - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To form durable wrinkles on the surface of woven fabric comprising fibrillated type conjugate yarn of polyamide and polyester. CONSTITUTION:To form durable wrinkles on the surface of woven fabric comprising fibrillated type conjugate yarn of polyamide and polyester, the woven fabric is subjected to mesh transfer processing by taking advantage of mechanical pressure, opened and fibrillated and successively heat-set at 170-190 deg.C.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric in which the durability of wrinkles, which is one of the surface changes of the fabric, lasts forever. Here, the wrinkle is not intended to be a wrinkle having unevenness, and is mainly intended to have a relatively flat surface effect such that the wrinkle looks like a wrinkle due to a difference in the opening degree of the woven fabric surface or a difference in fiber arrangement.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method for obtaining wrinkles, which is one of the changes in the surface of a fabric, a method for obtaining wrinkles by using mechanical pressure in the final processing stage, or a fabric made of strong twisted yarn,
There is a crepe method that generates untwisting torque in the strongly twisted yarn. However, when wrinkles are obtained by a method using mechanical pressure, the wrinkles lack durability, and there is a drawback that wrinkles tend to disappear particularly during wearing or washing. Further, the crepe method has a drawback that it is limited to the woven fabric composed of the strongly twisted yarn that generates the untwisting torque.

In order to solve these problems, Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. Sho 6
According to Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 3-219674, a cloth made of thermoplastic synthetic fiber is printed with a substance that generates heat by near-infrared rays, irradiated with near-infrared rays to heat the substance, and heat applied to the printed matter through the substance. A method of drawing a wrinkle pattern, which is characterized by heat-shrinking a synthetic plastic fiber and wrinkling it around the printed area, has been proposed, but there is a problem that it is difficult to control the amount of heat generation and reproducibility It had the drawback of being difficult.

[0004]

The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and provides a method for easily and efficiently obtaining a durable woven fabric having wrinkles. .

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have found that a fibrillated composite fiber fabric made of polyamide and polyester is mechanically pressured so that it is easy to avoid. The present invention was completed by a method for producing a woven fabric having a surface wrinkle effect, which comprises subjecting the woven fabric to open fibrillation and then heat-setting at 170 to 190 ° C.

That is, according to the present invention, wrinkles are visually emphasized due to the difference in the degree of opening between the mechanically formed sloping portion and the other portion of the fibrillated composite fiber fabric made of polyamide and polyester. As a result of conducting research focusing on the fact that wrinkles can be seen due to such surface effects, they have been completed.

The fibrillated composite fiber fabric composed of polyamide and polyester in the method of the present invention means that polyamide and polyester have a shape in which one component does not completely surround the other component in the cross section of a single filament. A fabric woven from composite fibers that are joined along the length of a single filament.

Examples of the woven fabric include a plain woven fabric and a twill woven fabric. The plain woven fabric is preferable because it has less surface irregularities and thus has a good surface effect.

Here, as the polyamide, for example, nylon 4, nylon 6, nylon 7, nylon 11, nylon 12, nylon 66, nylon 6,10, polymeta-xylene adipamide, polyparaxylylene decanamide, polybiscyclohexyl can be used. Examples include methanedecanamide and copolyamides containing them.

As the polyester, for example, polyethylene terephthalate, polytetramethylene terephthalate, polyethylene oxybenzoate, poly 1,4
-Dimethylcyclohexane terephthalate, polypivalolactone and copolyesters containing these as components.

The ratio of both polyamide / polyester components is usually in the range of 0.05 to 0.95.

[0012] What is the stitching process using mechanical pressure is
It is a process of mechanically disturbing the fiber row by the pressure of the roll to generate density unevenness, or generating wrinkles on the surface of the fabric by the pressure of the uneven roll. The mechanical pressure may be appropriately selected depending on the device used, but if the mechanical pressure is too low, there is no difference in the degree of opening between the misaligned portion and the other portion, which will be described later.

By the stitching process utilizing this mechanical pressure, the fibrillated composite fibers in the stitched portion are partially opened. Further, in the following fibrillation, the difference in opening between the misaligned portion and other portions becomes larger.

Here, fibrillation means that the fibrillated composite fiber is divided into joint parts of each component, and becomes a fibril composed of a segment yarn of one component and a segment yarn of the other component. Specifically, a woven fabric composed of fibrillated composite fibers composed of polyamide and polyester is treated with an agent for swelling polyamide for polyamide swelling treatment (hereinafter referred to as fibrillating agent) to shrink and densify the woven fabric. To do.

Specific examples of the fibrillating agent include benzyl alcohol, β-phenylethyl alcohol, phenol, m-cresol, formic acid and acetic acid. Further, it is suitable to use it as an aqueous solution or an aqueous emulsion thereof. Among them, the method of using an aqueous emulsion of benzyl alcohol is most suitable for the method of the present invention in terms of the shrinkability and fibrillation effect of the woven fabric, and the relatively easy handling.

In order to prepare an aqueous emulsion of the above fibrillating agent, a surfactant may be added to the fibrillating agent and emulsified and dispersed. As the surfactant, a nonionic active agent, a cationic active agent, It may be an anionic activator, an amphoteric activator or a mixture thereof.

The concentration of the fibrillating agent is preferably 1.5% by weight or more in order to obtain sufficient shrinkage and fibrillation effect. If it exceeds 50% by weight, it becomes unstable in the case of an aqueous emulsion, and it becomes very difficult to remove the fibrillating agent afterwards, and there is a possibility that components other than the polyamide component may be affected. From this viewpoint, the concentration is particularly preferably 3 to 30% by weight.

In the method of the present invention, it is preferable that the untreated product is left in the treatment liquid containing the fibrillating agent as described above, or is squeezed by mangle after immersion.

The temperature of the treatment liquid is 5 to 80 ° C., especially 10
The temperature is preferably -50 ° C, and when dipping and squeezing, the amount of the fibrillating agent held by the cloth is preferably 1 to 50% by weight (based on the weight of the cloth).

The heat set is usually used 170 to 19
It is carried out at a temperature of 0 ° C.

Since the effect of the mechanical offset processing as described above is comparatively weak, it is preferable that the opening conditions are not so strong in order to sufficiently bring out the effect.

As described above, in the method of the present invention, before the fiber-opening fibrillation by the fibrillizing agent, mechanical pressure is applied to cause the misalignment, and the fiber-opening fibrillation is appropriately performed by the fibrillating agent. Apply wrinkle processing. That is, a part of the fibrillated fiber is lightly opened by preliminarily imparting a misalignment by mechanical pressure, and wrinkles are formed by increasing the difference in the fibrillation degree between the misaligned part and the other part,
A durable wrinkle is obtained by utilizing the difference in shrinkage at the time of high shrinkage in the subsequent shrinking process after fibrillation.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

[0024]

Example: Warp (polyethylene terephthalate filament 75 denier / filament number 72 / twist number 12
00) and wefts (50 denier fibrillated composite fibers composed of polyamide and polyester / 25 filaments / twist number 2100) using a plain weaving machine (density: 99)
1 to 50 mm of a multi-stage nip roller (2) (3 denier polyethylene terephthalate yarn (3)) diagonally installed on the running path of the woven fabric (1) shown in FIGS. 1 and 2.
Randomly wound at intervals of mm) with a pressure of 1-10 kg
The pressure was applied in the range of / cm to carry out the stitching.

Then, an emulsion of benzyl alcohol 18% (emulsifier: Nika Kagaku Sanmor BK20Con
c. After picking up 48% with (1.8% used), wind it up and leave it for 10 minutes while idly spinning to promote opening, and further apply mechanical pressure with mangle to complete opening, Washing with hot water (80 to 95 ° C) was performed. As a result, the fabric was highly shrunk to about 70% in the width direction.

Subsequently, heat setting was carried out at 190 ° C. for 2 minutes.

As a result of this, a durable wrinkled fabric was produced.

[0028]

As described above, by using the method of the present invention, a woven fabric composed of polyamide and polyester fibrillated composite fibers is provided with durable wrinkles on the surface without using strong twisted yarn. You can

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic plan view of an apparatus used for stitching processing according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic side view of an apparatus used for stitching processing according to an embodiment of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Woven fabric 2 Nip roller 3 Thread (wrapped around nip roller)

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Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A fibrillated composite fiber woven fabric comprising polyamide and polyester is subjected to mechanical pressure so as to cause sloping, and then the woven fabric is opened and fibrillated, and subsequently heat set at 170 to 190 ° C. A method for producing a woven fabric having a surface wrinkle effect, the method comprising: