JPH0585928A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a cosmetic having excellent slip, refreshing feeling in use and high emollient effects by using an oleic acid-based oily component free from problems such as smell, discoloration, stability with the elapse of time and skin irritation. CONSTITUTION:High-purity oleic acid having >=85wt.% content of oleic acid (cis-DELTA9-octadecenoic acid) and >=90wt.% content of cis-DELTA9-octadecenoic acid) or its derivative is used as an oily component of cosmetic.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a cosmetic having a good feeling of use and a high emollient effect.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Many oily materials used for cosmetics have been developed and used so far. Since the target of use of the cosmetics is the human body part such as skin and hair, basically, a material similar to the constituents of human sebum is desirable. Since human body oil contains oleic acid and its ester as the main components,
The development of oleic acid-based oily materials has been actively continued.

[0003]

However, oleic acid and its derivatives up to now have odor, coloration, poor stability over time, strong skin irritation, stickiness and poor usability.
It is rarely used as an oily component of cosmetics because it does not show sharp physical properties.

The present invention contains oleic acid or its derivative as an oily component, which eliminates the problems of conventional products, has a good spreadability, is light in use and has a high emollient effect. The purpose is to provide fees.

[0005]

[Means for Solving the Problems] To solve the above-mentioned object, the present inventors have firstly investigated the oleic acid-based oily products of the prior art by clarifying the quality characteristics of the conventional oleic acid-based oily products. Fatty acid composition, gas chromatography analysis,
In particular, not only the difference in the carbon chain length of fatty acids and the number of double bonds but also the isomers having different double bond positions and steric structures can be separated.
Gas chromatograph using 60 (Supelco)
I checked it by analysis.

As a result, the purity of conventional oleic acid is 5
From the chart of the gas chromatographic analysis shown in FIG. 2, it is a mixture of 50 or more kinds of fatty acids at 0 to 60% by weight, and the conventional oleic acid contains oxidation products, raw materials and It was found that the impurities derived from the manufacturing method were contained in a considerable level.

Next, FIG. 1 shows a chart for gas chromatographic analysis similar to that described above. Ultrahigh-purity oleic acid having a purity of 99.99% by weight or more was prepared and its characteristics were investigated. However, the following findings were obtained.

A) Colorless and odorless. b) Excellent stability due to oxidation, heat, chemicals, etc. and long-term storage stability. c) No irritation to skin, low toxicity by oral, subcutaneous and intraperitoneal administration, and high safety. d) It spreads well, has no stickiness or oiliness and has a smooth skin feel, and has a large emollient effect. e) In the solid state, it exhibits unique and various polymorphic phenomena and phase transition behavior, and it has a liquid crystal structure even in the liquid state, and changes its structure stepwise with smectic and nematic as the temperature rises. Then, at 60 ° C. or higher, it becomes an isotropic liquid. The conformation, molecular mobility, and molecular assembly state change to temperature-dependent dynamics, and at 60 ° C. or lower, they are always in the lamella orientation state.

Such characteristics, especially the molecular physical property of the above e disappears when the purity decreases, and does not appear at all in conventional oleic acid which is a low purity multi-component system. From this, it was revealed that conventional oleic acid does not have the property as oleic acid at all in terms of physical properties.

Further, the present inventors synthesized derivatives of ester and oleyl alcohol by using the above-mentioned ultra-high purity oleic acid, and examined its characteristics. as a result,
With respect to points a to d, it exhibits excellent characteristics equivalent to or higher than that of ultra-high purity oleic acid, and the physical properties differ depending on the derivative species, but they are sharp and have strong lamellar orientation. I understand that they have common characteristics.

As described above, the high lamellar orientation, molecular structure, molecular mobility, flexibility, etc. of ultra-high purity oleic acid and its derivatives are excellent in spreadability, crisp feeling, and high emollient. It is a factor of the effect and creates value as a new oily component of cosmetics.

Further, as a result of pursuing the correlation between the structure and the physical properties, unsaturated fatty acids having the same Δ chain length show similar conformations and orientations. Therefore, in order to improve the characteristics as an oily component, olein In addition to increasing the acid purity, it has been clarified that it is effective to increase the Δ chain length.

As a result of further studies based on these findings, the product characteristics deteriorate as the purity of oleic acid decreases, but the purity of oleic acid is 85% by weight or more,
Particularly preferred is 90% by weight or more, and the content as cis-Δ9-unsaturated fatty acid is 90% by weight or more, and particularly preferred is 93%.
It has been found that if the content is at least wt%, the excellent properties peculiar to oleic acid will be exhibited and the composition will be suitable as an oily component of cosmetics.

In summary, it has been clarified that the problems of the conventional oleic acid-based oily materials can be improved by highly purifying oleic acid, and it is clear that highly pure oleic acid or its derivatives are oily. The cosmetics contained as components have been found to have excellent feeling in use and emollient effect, and have completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention relates to oleic acid (cis-
Δ9-octadecenoic acid) content is 85% by weight or more, and a high-purity oleic acid or its derivative as a cis-Δ9-unsaturated fatty acid content of 90% by weight or more is contained as an oily component. It relates to cosmetics that do.

The cosmetics of the present invention include lotions, creams,
Basic cosmetics such as milky lotion, face wash, cosmetic oil, and foundation
Finishing cosmetics such as chillon, lipstick, blusher, eyeliner, eyeshadow, and eyebrows, and hair cosmetics such as hair styling agents and hair nourishing agents.

Derivatives of high-purity oleic acid or its derivative in the present invention include methyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, propyl alcohol and butyl alcohol.
Le, pentyl alcohol, hexyl alcohol, heptyl alcohol, octyl alcohol, nonyl alcohol
Le, decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, tetradecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, octadecyl alcohol Le, Nonadecyl alcohol, Eicosyl alcohol,
Ester with straight-chain saturated monoalcohol such as docosyl alcohol, tetracosyl alcohol, hexacosyl alcohol, octacosyl alcohol, and triacontyl alcohol, undecenyl alcohol, Tetradecenyl alcohol, hexadecenyl alcohol, octadecenyl alcohol, eicosenyl alcohol, docosenyl alcohol, tetracosenyl alcohol, octadecadienyl alcohol, Esters with unsaturated monoalcohols such as octadecatrienyl alcohol, eicosatetraenyl alcohol, eicosapentaenyl alcohol, docosahexaenyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol,
Isobutyl alcohol, sec-butyl alcohol, t
ert-butyl alcohol, isopentyl alcohol,
Neopentyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol
Al, isononyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol
Branched monoalcohols such as ole, isomyristyl alcohol, isopalmityl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, nonyltridecyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol Ester with ethylene, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sorbitol Esters with polyalcohols such as ole, sorbitan, sorbide, sucrose, raffinose, cholesterol, cholesterol, dihydrocholesterol, sitosterol, phytosterol, cyclopentyl alcohol, cyclohexyl alcohol -Le,
Esters with cyclic and aromatic alcohols such as phenol, tocopherol, oryzanol, guaiacol, xylenol, gotshipol, ester with fluoroalcohol, terpene alcohol Esters, esters of various alcohols with polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropyleneized alcohols, high-purity oleyl alcohol obtained by reducing high-purity oleic acid, and high-purity oleyl Esters with alcohol, high-purity oleylamine obtained from high-purity oleic acid and amides with this high-purity oleylamine,
Alkyl amines, esters and amides with amino alcohols, amides and salts with amines, amides with amino acids, salts with alkalis, salts with other metals, high purity obtained by reducing high-purity oleic acid. Examples thereof include pure oleyl alcohol, polyalcohol ester, polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene ether compounds such as high-purity oleic acid, phospholipids, and acylated peptides.

In the method of using the cosmetic of the present invention, high-purity oleic acid or a derivative thereof may be used alone or in combination as an oily component, and these and other components may be used in combination. You may do it.

[0019]

As described above, in the present invention, by using high-purity oleic acid or a derivative thereof as an oily component, the odor, coloring, stability over time, and skin like those of conventional oleic acid-based oily materials can be obtained. There are no problems such as irritation,
It is possible to provide a cosmetic that spreads well and has a refreshing feeling of use, and has a high emollient effect.

[0020]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be explained with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In the examples,% means% by weight, and the oleic acid having a purity of 57% by weight in the comparative example and the purity of cis-Δ9-unsaturated fatty acid of 66% by weight means a conventional oleic acid. Further, the method of evaluating usability and the method of analyzing purity of oleic acid and the like adopted in the examples are as follows.

<Usability Evaluation Test Method> Female Paneler-2
The 0 person evaluated the feeling of use such as odor, spread, crispness, emollient effect according to the following criteria. More than 18 people answered good: ◎ 13 to 17 people answered good: ○ 7 to 12 people answered good: △ Less than 6 people answered good: ×

<Purity analysis method> By a gas chromatograph equipped with a capillary column (SP-2560; 0.25 mm × 100 m) capable of separating isomers having different double bond positions and three-dimensional structures.

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 A lotion containing glycerol monooleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 1, as an oily component was prepared according to the following formulation and used. The sex was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1. <Prescription> Oil component: Glycerol monooleate 3% Solubilizer: Polyoxyethylene (25 mol) oleyl ether 2% Ethyl alcohol 10% Water phase: Purified water 80% Glycerol 5%

[0024]

[Table 1]

Examples 6 to 10 and Comparative Examples 4 to 6 Lotions containing oleoic acid dioleoyl phosphatidylcholine, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 2, as oily ingredients were prepared according to the following formulations, The usability was evaluated.
The results are shown in Table 2. <Prescription> Oil component: Dioleoyl phosphatidylcholine 2% Solubilizer: Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) sorbitan monolaurate 1% Ethyl alcohol 15% Water phase: Purified water 80% Propylene glycol 2%

[0026]

[Table 2]

Examples 11 to 15 and Comparative Examples 7 to 9 Lotions containing oleyl glutamate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 3, as an oily component, were prepared according to the following formulations and used. The sex was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 3. <Prescription> Oily component: Oleyl glutamate 3% Ethyl alcohol 10% Water phase: Purified water 85% Sorbitol 2%

[0028]

[Table 3]

Examples 16 to 20 and Comparative Examples 10 to 12 Emollient creams containing hexadecenyl oleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 4, as an oil component, were prepared by the following formulation. Then, the usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 4. <Prescription> Oily component: Hexadecenyl oleate 70% Emulsifier: Polyoxyethylene (10 mol) oleyl ether 5% Water phase: Purified water 22% Glycerol 3%

[0030]

[Table 4]

Examples 21 to 25, Comparative Examples 13 to 15 The emollient creams containing ethyl oleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities, as an oily component are shown in Table 5.
It was prepared by the following formulation and its usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 5. <Prescription> Oily component: Ethyl oleate 65% Emulsifier: Diglycerol monooleate 5% Aqueous phase: Purified water 28% Glycerol 2%

[0032]

[Table 5]

Examples 26 to 30 and Comparative Examples 16 to 18 Oleic acids having different purities shown in Table 6 and oleyl alcohols obtained by reducing the respective oleic acids were esterified in accordance with the purities. To prepare oleyl oleates having different purities. An emollient cream containing this oleyl oleate as an oil component was prepared according to the following formulation, and its usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 6. <Prescription> Oily component: Oleyl oleate 40% Emulsifier: Glycerol monooleate 2.5% Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) oleyl oleate 1.5% Aqueous phase: Purified water 53% Propylene glycol 3%

[0034]

[Table 6]

Examples 31 to 35, Comparative Examples 19 to 21 Emollient creams containing glyceryl trioleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 7, as an oily component were prepared according to the following formulation, The usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 7. <Prescription> Oily component: Glycerol trioleate 75% Emulsifier: Sorbitan sesquioleate 3.5% Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) sorbitan monooleate 1.5% Aqueous phase: Purified water 17% Sorbitol 3%

[0036]

[Table 7]

Examples 36 to 40, Comparative Examples 22 to 24 As shown in Table 8, oleic acid derivatives having different purities
A vanishing cream containing octyldodecyl oleate as an oil component was prepared according to the following formulation, and its usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 8. <Formulation> Oily component: 2-octyldodecyl oleate 20% Emulsifier: Glycerol monostearate 2% Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) sorbitan monostearate 1% Water phase: Purified water 72% Sorbitol 5 %

[0038]

[Table 8]

Examples 41 to 45, Comparative Examples 25 to 27 Repellent aqueous cosmetic oils containing tetrahydrotridecafluorooctyl oleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 9, as an oil component, were prepared as follows. Prepared by prescription,
The usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 9. <Prescription> Oily component: Tetrahydrotridecafluorooctyl oleate 100%

[0040]

[Table 9]

Examples 46 to 50, Comparative Examples 28 to 30 Emulsions containing oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 10 and the derivative cholesterol oleate as an oily component were prepared.
It was prepared by the following formulation and its usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 10. <Prescription> Oily component: Oleic acid 2% Cholesterol oleate 10% Emulsifier: Diglycerol monooleate 1% Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) oleyl ether 2% Water phase: Purified water 85%

[0042]

[Table 10]

Examples 51 to 55, Comparative Examples 31 to 33 Emulsions containing glycerol dioleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 11, as an oily component were prepared according to the following formulations, and their usability was obtained. Was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
Shown in 1. <Prescription> Oily component: Glycerol dioleate 15% Emulsifier: Polyoxyethylene (10 mol) sorbitan monooleate 3% Water phase: Purified water 82%

[0044]

[Table 11]

Examples 56 to 60, Comparative Examples 34 to 36 Emulsions containing tocopherol oleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 12, as an oil component were prepared according to the following formulations, and their usability was obtained. Was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
2 shows. <Prescription> Oily component: Tocopherol oleate 10% Emulsifier: Sucrose monooleate 3% Aqueous phase: Purified water 84% Glycerol 3%

[0046]

[Table 12]

Examples 61 to 65 and Comparative Examples 37 to 39 Cleansing creams containing isopropyl oleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 13, as an oil component were prepared according to the following formulations, and Usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 13. <Formulation> Oily component: Isopropyl oleate 80% Emulsifier: Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) oleyl ether 3% Polyoxyethylene (5 mol) sorbitan monolaurate 2% Aqueous phase: Purified water 12% Glycero- 3%

[0048]

[Table 13]

Examples 66 to 70, Comparative Examples 40 to 42 Cleansing creams containing oleic acid having different purities as oily ingredients shown in Table 14 were prepared according to the following formulations, and their usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 14. <Prescription> Oily component: Oleic acid 40% Aqueous phase: Purified water 53% Potassium hydroxide 7%

[0050]

[Table 14]

Examples 71 to 75, Comparative Examples 43 to 45 Cleansing creams containing oleyl glutamate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 15, as an oil component were prepared according to the following formulations, The usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 15. <Prescription> Oily component: Oleyl glutamate 45% Water phase: Purified water 50% Polyethylene glycol 5%

[0052]

[Table 15]

Examples 76 to 80, Comparative Examples 46 to 48 Emulsion liquid foundations containing oleic acid having different purities and its derivative isostearyl oleate as oil components shown in Table 16 were prepared by the following formulations. Then, the usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 16. <Prescription> Oily component: Oleic acid 4% Isostearyl oleate 17% Aqueous phase: Purified water 65% Triethanolamine 1.9% Pigment: Titanium oxide 8% Talc 4% Colored pigment 0.1%

[0054]

[Table 16]

Examples 81-85, Comparative Examples 49-51 The lipsticks containing, as oily components, docosenyl oleate, octacosyl oleate and glycerol monooleate, which are derivatives of oleic acid having different purities, are shown in Table 17 below. It was prepared by the formulation and its usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 17.
Shown in. <Prescription> Oily component: Docosenyl oleate 45% Octacosyl oleate 15% Glycerol monooleate 30% Coloring material: Titanium oxide 1% Red No. 201 1% Red No. 202 1% Blue No. 1 Aluminum chelate 0.5 % Mica Titanium 6.5%

[0056]

[Table 17]

Examples 86-90, Comparative Examples 52-54 Hair liquors containing oleyl alcohol, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 18, as an oil component were prepared according to the following formulations, and their usability was evaluated. evaluated. The results are shown in Table 18. <Prescription> Oily component: Oleyl alcohol 5% Tocopheryl acetate 1% Ethyl alcohol 70% Water phase: Purified water 17% Polyoxypropylene butyl ether 7%

[0058]

[Table 18]

Examples 91-95, Comparative Examples 55-57 Hair creams containing octadecyl oleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities, as an oily component are shown in Table 19.
It was prepared by the following formulation and its usability was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 19. <Prescription> Oily component: Octadecyl oleate 15% Emulsifier: Polyoxyethylene (20 mol) stearyl ether 4% Sorbitan monostearate 1% Water phase: Purified water 75% Propylene glycol 5%

[0060]

[Table 19]

Examples 96 to 100 and Comparative Examples 58 to 60 Hair nourishing agents containing glycerol monooleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 20, as an oil component were prepared according to the following formulations and used. The sex was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 20. <Prescription> Oily ingredient: Glycerol monooleate 5% Tocopherol nicotine 0.5% Hair-growth ingredient: Cefarantin 1% Hinokitiol 0.1% Ethyl alcohol 93.4%

[0062]

[Table 20]

Examples 101 to 105, Comparative Examples 61 to 63 Hair nourishing agents containing sorbitan monooleate, which is a derivative of oleic acid having different purities shown in Table 21, as an oil component were prepared according to the following formulations and used. The sex was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 21. <Prescription> Oily component: Sorbitan monooleate 3% α-tocopherol 0.5% Hair-growth component: Carpronium chloride 1% Assembly extract 0.1% Ethyl alcohol 95.4%

[0064]

[Table 21]

As is clear from the results shown in Tables 1 to 21, Examples 1 to 105 in which the high-purity oleic acid or its derivative defined in the present invention was used as an oily component.
It can be seen that all of the cosmetics of 1 are excellent in the feeling of use such as odor, spread, dryness and emollient effect.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a chart showing the results of a gas chromatographic analysis of ultra-high purity oleic acid.

FIG. 2 is a chart showing the results of gas chromatographic analysis of low-purity oleic acid used in conventional cosmetics.
It is

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A high-purity oleic acid or derivative thereof having an oleic acid (cis-Δ9-octadecenoic acid) content of 85% by weight or more and a cis-Δ9-unsaturated fatty acid content of 90% by weight or more. , A cosmetic composition containing as an oily component.