JPH05230742A - Knit fabric containing cotton and its production - Google Patents

Knit fabric containing cotton and its production

Info

Publication number
JPH05230742A
JPH05230742A JP6926392A JP6926392A JPH05230742A JP H05230742 A JPH05230742 A JP H05230742A JP 6926392 A JP6926392 A JP 6926392A JP 6926392 A JP6926392 A JP 6926392A JP H05230742 A JPH05230742 A JP H05230742A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
cotton
cellulose
knitted fabric
iii
yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP6926392A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Isao Iwata
功 岩田
Shunzo Abe
俊三 安倍
Shinji Matsubara
真二 松原
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toyobo Co Ltd filed Critical Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority to JP6926392A priority Critical patent/JPH05230742A/en
Publication of JPH05230742A publication Critical patent/JPH05230742A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain knit fabric, containing cotton, having level dyeing properties, high dyeing concentration, soft hand, body, high tenacity and shrinkproof properties and excellent in gloss. CONSTITUTION:The objective cotton knit fabric is constructed of cotton yarn containing cotton fiber having cellulose I, cellulose II and cellulose III type crystal structures with respective contents in the order of cellulose III>cellulose I>cellulose II and the cellulose III accounting for >=40% in the crystal. Furthermore, the objective method for producing the knit fabric is obtained.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】均染性およびソフトで弾発性の風
合に優れ、かつ強力と防縮性に優れた綿含有編物および
その製造法に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a cotton-containing knitted fabric excellent in levelness and softness, softness and elasticity, and strength and shrink resistance, and a method for producing the same.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】綿繊維は吸水性に優れ、染色性も良く、
古くから衣料に使用されてきたが、天然繊維であるた
め、その繊維構造は種や成育された地域の気候などの影
響を受けて様々に変化する。そのため、綿糸に染色差が
生じることがある。綿糸の染色性を改良する方法とし
て、従来より綿のスライバーや糸をマーセライズ加工す
ることが行なわれていが、糸状又はスライバー状で、苛
性ソーダーによるマーセライズ加工した糸を用いて編地
にしたものは糸の応力が残っており洗濯収縮特性が低下
したり斜行したり製品における寸法安定性の悪いものが
発生する。又、糸に内在する糸状又はスライバー状でマ
ーセライズ加工された時のイレギュラーが染色ムラや染
段を発生させるなどの欠点を有している。このため編地
で苛性ソーダーによるマーセライズ加工を行う事で改善
する方法が行われて来た。
2. Description of the Related Art Cotton fibers are excellent in water absorption and dyeability,
It has been used for clothing for a long time, but since it is a natural fiber, its fiber structure changes variously depending on the species and the climate of the area where it is grown. Therefore, a difference in dyeing may occur in the cotton yarn. As a method for improving the dyeability of cotton yarn, it has been practiced to mercerize a cotton sliver or yarn from the past. Since the stress of the yarn remains, the shrinkage property of washing is deteriorated or the product is skewed and the product has poor dimensional stability. In addition, there is a defect that irregularity when dyed or sliver-like in the yarn when mercerized causes uneven dyeing or dyeing stage. For this reason, a method of improving the knitted fabric by performing a mercerizing process with caustic soda has been performed.

【0003】[0003]

【発明が解決しようとする課題)しかし、
編地でマーセライズ加工するこの方法では糸が剛直化
し、風合いが本来の綿の持味をやや損なう欠点が有り防
シワ性は、良くなるが充分ではない。又、均一な染色性
においても、染段などの欠点を生ずる場合も有る。編地
としての光沢については糸のマーセライズによる光沢は
必ずしも良い効果を与えない。編地にした事により応力
が解除される時、繊維集合体としての糸が乱れて収縮性
が低下して光沢のていか発生することがあること、編地
でのマーセライズ加工では繊維収縮率が大きいため、予
め大口径の編機で目標仕上巾より巾広の編地を用意する
必要があること等の欠点がある。 【0004】
[Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However,
In this method of mercerizing with a knitted fabric, the yarn becomes rigid and the texture slightly deteriorates the original taste of cotton, and the wrinkle resistance is improved, but it is not sufficient. Further, even in the case of uniform dyeability, there are cases in which defects such as dyeing stage may occur. Regarding the gloss as a knitted fabric, the gloss due to the mercerization of the yarn does not always give a good effect. When the stress is released due to knitting, the yarn as a fiber aggregate may be disturbed and shrinkage may be reduced, resulting in glossiness. Since it is large, there is a drawback that it is necessary to prepare a knitted fabric having a width wider than the target finished width in advance with a knitting machine having a large diameter. [0004]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者らは、前記課題
を解決するために、鋭意検討を重ねた結果、本発明に到
達したのである。即ち、本発明は、(I)セルロース
I、(II)セルロースII及び(III )セルロース III型
の結晶構造を有し、それぞれの含有量がIII >I>IIの
順であり、かつIII /(I+II+III )が0.4以上を
満足する結晶構造の綿繊維を含む綿含有糸によって構成
された綿含有編物およびマーセライズ加工綿繊維を含有
する綿含有糸を用いて構成された編物を連続的または断
続的に液体アンモニア処理することを特徴とする綿含有
編物の製造法である。
The present inventors have arrived at the present invention as a result of extensive studies to solve the above problems. That is, the present invention has a crystal structure of (I) cellulose I, (II) cellulose II and (III) cellulose III, and the content of each is in the order of III>I> II, and III / ( I + II + III) A cotton-containing knitted fabric composed of cotton-containing yarns containing a crystalline structure cotton fiber satisfying 0.4 or more, and a knitted fabric formed from a cotton-containing yarn containing a mercerized cotton fiber, continuously or intermittently. It is a method for producing a knitted fabric containing cotton, which is characterized in that it is treated with liquid ammonia.

【0005】天然の綿繊維中に存在する結晶構造はセル
ロースIであり、通常のマーセライズ加工により、セル
ロースIIが生成され、セルロースIは半数以上がセルロ
ースIII に変化させられる。この変化の過程で繊維内部
の微細構造が変化して染料が吸着されやすい空隙(ポ
ア)が増大する。しかしながら、この変化はマーセライ
ズ加工の条件によっても微妙に変化し、またその繊維自
身がその生育過程で形成して保有していた微細構造をも
大きく変化させるものではない。したがって、マーセラ
イズ加工のみでは充分に染色差を解消することはできな
い。本発明は、セルロース結晶構造をより大きな変化
で、かつ安定なセルロースIII にまで変化させることに
より、原料の繊維が保有する染色性の差を解消するのみ
ならず、安定した染色性を付与するものである。綿繊維
中の全結晶構造中のセルロースIII の含有率は40%以
上である。
The crystal structure existing in natural cotton fibers is cellulose I, and cellulose II is produced by the usual mercerizing process, and more than half of cellulose I is converted to cellulose III. In the course of this change, the fine structure inside the fiber changes and the pores (pores) where the dye is easily adsorbed increase. However, this change slightly changes depending on the conditions of the mercerization process, and does not significantly change the fine structure formed and held by the fiber itself during the growth process. Therefore, the dyeing difference cannot be sufficiently eliminated only by the mercerizing process. INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention not only eliminates the difference in dyeability possessed by the raw material fibers but also imparts stable dyeability by changing the crystal structure of cellulose to a more stable and stable cellulose III. Is. The content of cellulose III in the total crystal structure of the cotton fiber is 40% or more.

【0006】綿繊維内部にセルロースIII を形成させる
方法としては、綿繊維を糸またはスライバー状で苛性ソ
ーダ濃度10〜30%(望ましくは15〜20%)、処
理温度0〜90℃(望ましくは10〜25℃)、処理時
間15秒〜5分間(望ましくは1〜3分間)浸漬処理し
た後、洗浄することによりマーセライズ加工して、セル
ロースIIを形成させ、このマーセライズ加工した綿繊維
を含有する綿糸を用いて編物を作り、該編物を液体アン
モニアに浸漬させた後、アンモニアを除去する方法が挙
げられる。
As a method for forming cellulose III inside the cotton fiber, the cotton fiber is in the form of thread or sliver and has a caustic soda concentration of 10 to 30% (preferably 15 to 20%) and a treatment temperature of 0 to 90 ° C. (preferably 10 to 10). 25 ° C.), treatment time 15 seconds to 5 minutes (desirably 1 to 3 minutes), and then mercerizing by washing to form cellulose II, and a cotton yarn containing the mercerized cotton fiber is formed. A method of making a knitted fabric using the knitted fabric, immersing the knitted fabric in liquid ammonia, and then removing the ammonia can be mentioned.

【0007】液体アンモニアは、浸透力が強く、瞬時に
して繊維内部にまで浸透させることができるため、繊維
内部にまで均一に微細構造を変化させることができる。
液体アンモニアの処理条件としては、マーセライズ加工
した糸またはスライバーを液体アンモニアに浸漬後、5
〜90秒、望ましくは5〜20秒以内にアンモニアを除
去する。
Since liquid ammonia has a strong penetrating power and can be instantly penetrated into the inside of the fiber, the fine structure can be uniformly changed into the inside of the fiber.
The liquid ammonia treatment conditions are as follows: mercerized yarn or sliver is immersed in liquid ammonia and
Ammonia is removed within ~ 90 seconds, preferably within 5-20 seconds.

【0008】本発明の液体アンモニア処理により、マー
セライズ加工された綿繊維中のセルロースIIは大部分が
セルロースIII に変化し、結晶構造の割合はセルロース
III>>セルロースI>セルロースIIの順になる。セル
ロースIの結晶中の分率は0.35以下が好ましい。
By the liquid ammonia treatment of the present invention, most of the cellulose II in the mercerized cotton fiber is changed to cellulose III, and the ratio of the crystal structure is cellulose.
III >> Cellulose I> Cellulose II. The fraction of cellulose I in the crystal is preferably 0.35 or less.

【0009】セルロースIII を形成させる薬剤は液体ア
ンモニアが好ましいが、メチルアミン、エチルアミン等
の低級アルキルアミンの使用も可能である。結晶以外の
非晶部分の割合は、通常15〜40%である。本発明の
綿繊維は、バリウム活性価(AATCC89−1958
T)を測定すると、おおむね150〜180の値であ
り、通常のマーセライズ加工綿繊維に比較してかなり高
い値である。また、本発明の方法によれば、綿編物の強
力を著しく向上させることができるという予想外の効果
の他に、風合いのソフト化、弾発性の付与、高い防縮性
等の効果をも発揮させることができる。
Liquid ammonia is preferably used as the agent for forming cellulose III, but it is also possible to use a lower alkylamine such as methylamine or ethylamine. The proportion of the amorphous portion other than crystals is usually 15 to 40%. The cotton fiber of the present invention has a barium activity value (AATCC 89-1958).
When T) is measured, it is a value of about 150 to 180, which is considerably higher than that of a normal mercerized cotton fiber. Further, according to the method of the present invention, in addition to the unexpected effect that the strength of the cotton knit can be significantly improved, it also exhibits effects such as softening the texture, imparting elasticity, and high shrink resistance. Can be made

【0010】本発明でいう綿含有編物とは、100%綿
糸以外に綿を主体として含有する綿糸から得られる編
物、綿糸以外に他の天然繊維、半合成繊維、合成繊維等
を本発明の効果が損なわれない範囲で混用(混紡、交
撚、交編)された編物をも含む。
The term "cotton-containing knitted fabric" as used in the present invention means a knitted fabric obtained from a cotton yarn containing mainly cotton in addition to 100% cotton yarn, and other natural fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, synthetic fibers, etc. besides the cotton yarn. It also includes knitted fabrics that have been mixed (blended, twisted, knitted) within a range that does not impair the property.

【0011】[0011]

【実施例】以下に本発明を実施例により具体的に説明す
るが本発明はこれら実施例に限定されるものではない。 ・ 結晶構造の分析法 綿編物を構成する綿単繊維を解き出し、平行な繊維束と
して試料を常法に従ってX線回析法により測定した。セ
ルロースI型とセルロースII型及びセルロースI型とセ
ルロース III型混合結晶中のセルロースI型の含量の求
め方はRanby,B.G: :Acta.Chem.Scand.,6(1952)p.116 お
よび林ら、北海道大学研究報告,p.83(1974 ) に記載の
方法によった。
EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. -Crystal Structure Analysis Method The cotton single fibers constituting the cotton knitted fabric were unwound, and the sample was measured as an parallel fiber bundle by an X-ray diffraction method according to a conventional method. Cellulose type I and cellulose type II and cellulose type I and cellulose type III in mixed crystals were determined by Ranby, BG:: Acta.Chem.Scand., 6 (1952) p.116 and Hayashi et al. , Hokkaido University Research Report, p.83 (1974).

【0012】・ 染色性の評価方法:綿編物を反応性染
料(モノクロルトノアジン型)2% owf、炭酸ソーダ2
0g/l、芒硝50g/lの染浴で液流染色機を使い、
100℃で吸尽染色を行ない、染色編地の均一性、色濃
度について視覚判定した ○:良好 △:やや不良 ・ 樹脂加工方法:染色した編地をグリオキザール系樹
脂5%、金属触媒1.5%、シリコンソフナー2.0
%、ポリエチレングリコール2.0%を含有させた加工
液を60%ピックアップになるように付与した後、12
0℃×2分間の中間乾燥と150℃×3分間のベーキン
グを実施した。 ・ 光沢:視覚判定により評価した ○:良好 △:やや不良 ・ 風合(KES法):KESのFB−1(カトーテッ
ク社製)を使用して、剪断剛性(G)、剪断ヒステリシ
ス(2HG)を求めた。 ・ 風合(触感法):編地を触感によって、ソフトさと
張り感について評価した。 ・ 防縮性:JIS L 1042 F2タンブル法に
よって編地のタテ方法の収縮率(%)を測定した。
Evaluation method of dyeability: cotton knitted fabric with reactive dye (monochlorotonazine type) 2% owf, sodium carbonate 2
Using a jet dyeing machine with a dyeing bath of 0 g / l and mirabilite 50 g / l,
Exhaust dyeing was carried out at 100 ° C., and the uniformity and color density of the dyed knitted fabric were visually evaluated. ○: Good Δ: Somewhat bad ・ Resin processing method: dyed knitted fabric 5% glyoxal resin, metal catalyst 1.5 %, Silicon Softener 2.0
%, Polyethylene glycol 2.0% was added to the working fluid so that it would be 60% picked up, and then 12
Intermediate drying at 0 ° C for 2 minutes and baking at 150 ° C for 3 minutes were performed. -Gloss: Evaluated by visual judgment O: Good B: Slightly bad-Hand (KES method): Shear rigidity (G), shear hysteresis (2HG) using KES FB-1 (manufactured by Kato Tech). I asked. -Hand (touch method): The knitted fabric was evaluated for softness and tension by touch. -Shrinkproof property: The shrinkage ratio (%) of the warp method of the knitted fabric was measured by the JIS L 1042 F2 tumble method.

【0013】実施例1 苛性ソーダ30°Be′(23.5%)によって糸状で
マーセル化された60番双糸の綿糸を用いて、口径30
インチ、ゲージ28G/m2 /cmの編機を用いて編立
てた編物を液体アンモニアを絞り率90%で連続的に含
浸せしめた後、15秒で乾燥処理して本発明の綿編物
(A)を得た。この綿編物中の綿繊維糸をX線回析法に
より分析した結果は、セルロースIII 46%、セルロー
スI21%、セルロースII5%、非晶部分28%であっ
た。
Example 1 A cotton yarn of No. 60 twin yarn, which was mercerized in the form of a filament with caustic soda 30 ° Be '(23.5%), was used to obtain a caliber of 30.
A knitted fabric knitted using a knitting machine with an inch and a gauge of 28 G / m 2 / cm is continuously impregnated with liquid ammonia at a squeezing ratio of 90%, and then dried for 15 seconds, and then the cotton knitted fabric of the present invention (A ) Got. The cotton fiber yarn in this cotton knitted fabric was analyzed by the X-ray diffraction method and the results were found to be 46% for cellulose III, 21% for cellulose I, 5% for cellulose II and 28% for the amorphous portion.

【0014】また比較例として苛性ソーダ30°Be′
でマーセル化した綿編物(B)を得た。この綿編物中の
綿繊維のX線回析法による分析結果は、セルロースII4
1%、セルロースI32%、非晶部分27%であった。
また比較のために液体アンモニア処理した綿糸を用いて
編物とし、次いでこの編地を苛性ソーダでマーセライズ
加工した編物(C)及び液体アンモニア処理した綿糸の
編物を再度液体アンモニア処理をした綿編物(D)を得
た。これらの編物について破裂強力を測定した結果を表
1に示した。本発明の編物が非常に高い強力を有するこ
とがわかる。
As a comparative example, caustic soda 30 ° Be '
A mercerized cotton knit (B) was obtained. The analysis results of the cotton fibers in this cotton knitted fabric by the X-ray diffraction method are cellulose II 4
The content was 1%, cellulose I 32%, and amorphous portion 27%.
Also, for comparison, a knitted fabric was formed by using liquid ammonia-treated cotton yarn, and then the knitted fabric was mercerized with caustic soda (C) and a liquid ammonia-treated cotton yarn knitted fabric was treated again with liquid ammonia (D). Got The results of measuring the burst strength of these knitted fabrics are shown in Table 1. It can be seen that the knitted fabric of the present invention has a very high tenacity.

【0015】[0015]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0016】実施例2 実施例1で得られた綿編物A、B、C及びDについて、
常法の染色、樹脂加工を行なって評価した。その結果を
表2に示した。
Example 2 For the cotton knits A, B, C and D obtained in Example 1,
Evaluation was carried out by dyeing and resin processing in a conventional manner. The results are shown in Table 2.

【0017】[0017]

【表2】 本発明の綿編物は、均染性の向上、濃染効果に加えて、
優れた光沢、風合のソフト化、張り感の向上及び高い防
縮性が認められる。
[Table 2] The cotton knitted fabric of the present invention has an improved level dyeing property, in addition to a deep dyeing effect,
Excellent gloss, soft texture, improved feeling of tension and high shrink resistance.

【0018】[0018]

【発明の効果】糸状やスライバー状でマーセライズ加工
した綿糸を液体アンモニアで処理して結晶構造中のセル
ロースIII の含有量を特定量まで高めることにより、繊
維間の染色差が縮小して染ムラ段の発生する程の顕著な
染色差はなくなる。この糸を使用して作られた編物は高
強力でかつ弾発性に豊み、シワになりにくく、ドレープ
性も一層良くなるとともにソフトな風合いとなる。又、
防縮性が高く、優れた光沢と濃染性の綿含有編物が得ら
れる。
EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION By increasing the content of cellulose III in the crystal structure to a specific amount by treating cotton thread mercerized in thread form or sliver shape with liquid ammonia, the difference in dyeing between fibers is reduced and uneven dyeing is achieved. There is no significant difference in staining to the extent that the occurrence of. A knitted fabric made from this yarn has high strength, is rich in elasticity, is less likely to wrinkle, has better drapeability, and has a soft texture. or,
A cotton-containing knitted fabric having high shrink resistance and excellent gloss and deep dyeing property can be obtained.

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.5 識別記号 庁内整理番号 FI 技術表示箇所 // D06M 101:06 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. 5 Identification number Office reference number FI technical display location // D06M 101: 06

Claims (2)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 (I)セルロースI、(II)セルロース
II及び(III )セルロース III型の結晶構造を有し、そ
れぞれの含有量がIII >I>IIの順であり、かつIII /
(I+II+III )が0.4以上を満足する結晶構造の綿
繊維を含む綿含有糸によって構成された綿含有編物。
1. (I) Cellulose I, (II) Cellulose
II and (III) Cellulose having a type III crystal structure, the contents of which are in the order of III>I> II, and III / I
A cotton-containing knitted fabric composed of cotton-containing yarn containing crystal-structured cotton fibers satisfying (I + II + III) of 0.4 or more.
【請求項2】 マーセライズ加工綿繊維を含有する綿含
有糸を用いて構成された編物を連続的または断続的に液
体アンモニア処理することを特徴とする綿含有編物の製
造法。
2. A method for producing a cotton-containing knit, comprising continuously or intermittently treating a knitted fabric made of a cotton-containing yarn containing a mercerized cotton fiber with liquid ammonia.
JP6926392A 1992-02-17 1992-02-17 Knit fabric containing cotton and its production Pending JPH05230742A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP6926392A JPH05230742A (en) 1992-02-17 1992-02-17 Knit fabric containing cotton and its production

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP6926392A JPH05230742A (en) 1992-02-17 1992-02-17 Knit fabric containing cotton and its production

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH05230742A true JPH05230742A (en) 1993-09-07

Family

ID=13397644

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR19980032132A (en) * 1996-05-23 1998-07-25 모치즈키아키히로 Preshrink-resistant processing of cellulose fiber-containing structures
JP2010275653A (en) * 2009-05-27 2010-12-09 Toyobo Specialties Trading Co Ltd Knit and method for producing the same
CN102505305A (en) * 2011-10-31 2012-06-20 苏州创宇织造有限公司 Mercerized bamboo fiber fabric
CN105734963A (en) * 2016-04-27 2016-07-06 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Knitted fabric containing cotton and having silky luster, handfeel and cool feeling and manufacturing method thereof

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR19980032132A (en) * 1996-05-23 1998-07-25 모치즈키아키히로 Preshrink-resistant processing of cellulose fiber-containing structures
JP2010275653A (en) * 2009-05-27 2010-12-09 Toyobo Specialties Trading Co Ltd Knit and method for producing the same
CN102505305A (en) * 2011-10-31 2012-06-20 苏州创宇织造有限公司 Mercerized bamboo fiber fabric
CN105734963A (en) * 2016-04-27 2016-07-06 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Knitted fabric containing cotton and having silky luster, handfeel and cool feeling and manufacturing method thereof

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