JPH0491239A - Blended yarn of wool and silk - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject blended yarn having excellent heatretaining property, drape, luster and feeling to the skin, free from dyeing mottling and having silky feeling by mixing a wool sliver and a silk sliver having a specific fiber length distributions and successively passing the mixed slivers through nozzles ejecting reversely rotating air flows. CONSTITUTION:The objective blended yarn having a blending degree of formula I [x is blending ratio of the component A; pi is defined by formula II (omega is number of the component A on the cross-section of the blended yarn; g is number of the groups of the component A in a developed blended yarn)] can be produced by blending (A) wool fibers having maximum fiber length of >=100mm and an average fiber length of >=55mm and (B) silk fibers having maximum fiber length of 150-240mm and an average fiber length of >=45mm at a weight ratio [A/(A+B)] of 50-95%, mixing the blended fibers with a mixer to obtain a roving for the pneumatic false-twisting spinning, drawing the roving from a can, passing through the 1st air-jet nozzle, loosening the fibers and finally passing through the 2nd air-jet nozzle forming a gyration air flow rotating in the direction opposite to the rotation of in the 1st air flow.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a wool/silk blended yarn that has the heat retention properties and texture unique to wool fibers, as well as the luster and feel of silk fibers.

(Prior art) The purpose of blended textiles is to skillfully combine the advantages of the constituent materials, and the same goes for blended textiles of wool and silk fibers.

By the way, it is ideal for the blended yarn to satisfy the following three conditions. ! P also has (11 total amount is the specified composition ratio, 蓼) any cross section of the yarn has the specified blending ratio,
(3) The arrangement of the mixed fibers is uniform in any cross section of the yarn.

In order to satisfy these requirements in the conventional spinning process,
In order to eliminate the difference in fiber length, which is the biggest cause of uneven blending, it is possible to trim the constituent materials as described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 45-4412, or increase the number of tablings during the spinning process to create opportunities for mixing and dispersion. By increasing the amount, the unevenness of blending was eliminated.

(1111 to be solved by the invention) However, when examining the blended state of wool #Iklll and silk fiber, it is found that there is no opportunity to use the fiber length of the raw material state as it is in order to fully utilize the characteristics of each fiber.
Compared to wool fibers, silk fibers have a larger fluctuation rate in fiber length and smaller fineness, so when blended, they are less uniformly dispersed and tend to form clusters of silk fibers alone.To avoid this, the above-mentioned Even if the number of steps in the spinning process is increased and the number of tablings is increased, this problem cannot be easily solved. C) The dispersion of silk fibers during the spinning process is very poor and they tend to cluster, so it is difficult to create slabs of silk fibers. The number of nep formations decreases the quality of the blended yarn. (3) Gap in wA knitting using the obtained blended yarn, difference in color between silk fiber and wool fiber.

Since the difference in dyeing is large, conventional wool/fighting blended yarns have problems such as 0 or more, where if the mixing state of both is not uniform, color unevenness occurs and the quality of the product decreases rapidly.

The present invention aims to solve the above-mentioned problems with conventional wool/combination spinning, which is obtained by a conventional spinning machine with a ring traveler mechanism via the front process of spinning, especially the front process of worsted spinning. The present invention aims to provide a wool/silk spun yarn with a new structure by skillfully utilizing the characteristics of spun yarn obtained by a conventionally known air false twisting spinning device for wool/silk blend spinning.

<Means for solving the problem of van) In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has the following configuration. 11. A blended staple fiber bundle consisting of wool fibers and silk fibers is fed to an air false twisting type spinning device consisting of two air injection nozzles that create swirling airflows with opposite rotational directions in each nozzle for spinning. It is a blended yarn consisting of a stable fiber bundle, in which one end of the single fiber of the stable fiber bundle is in the inner layer of the generated yarn, and the other end of the fiber comes out to the outer layer of the generated yarn and is raked into a real twist shape, so that each twisted single fiber is The fibers are arranged in substantially the same direction, and the wool fiber has a maximum fiber length of 100 mm or more and an average fiber length of 55 mm or more by barbé method, while the silk fiber has a maximum fiber length of 100 mm or more.
50-240mm, average fiber length by perve method is 45m
m or more, and contains 50 to 95% wool fiber based on the total amount
(weight ratio) and wool fibers are dispersed in a blended yarn with a mixing degree π shown by the following formula.

π≦1.05−0.0076 x ω −g ω In addition, When placed in It shows the number of groups of wool fibers when the cross-sectional fibers are developed and arranged one-dimensionally.

Therefore, in order to obtain the blended yarn of the present invention, it is necessary to combine wool ma having a specific fiber length as described above and silk fiber in a predetermined ratio.

The above-mentioned wool fiber is a worsted sliver obtained from the routine process in which the raw wool for worsting is passed through the following steps: combing → washing → card → gill → rewashed gill → gill → comb → gill - gill to make a sliver for worsted. can be used.

- As the braided fiber, a silk sliver passed through a silk spinning raw material -> blending - Obner batting machine - Cardo filament machine -> Comber filament machine - can be used. From this manufacturing process, both wool fibers and silk fibers have relatively long fiber lengths, which are spun so that the raw material (raw wool) IIAIi is not cut as much as possible.In other words, in the fiber length of wool fibers, the maximum IIAIi1 length is 100 mm or more, and the average length by barbé method. The fiber length is 55 mm or more,
- The maximum fiber length of the braided fibers is 150 to 240 mm, and the average fiber length by barbé method is 45 mm or more. It is important that the blended yarn of the present invention has the above fiber length distribution,
Wool fibers shorter than this, i.e., fibers for wool spinning, wool or silk fibers cut to a certain length that are approximately the same length, are undesirable because the strength and quality of the resulting yarn is significantly inferior, and the spinning condition is also poor. .

Further, this wool fiber may be formed into a sliver through a known ordinary process as described above, and before being blended with silk fiber through a known ordinary process, a chlorinated resin method is applied after forming the sliver and before spinning. It may also be a material that has been subjected to a shrink-proofing process such as a method such that the scale of the surface fibers has been reduced by leaving a certain proportion of the scale.

The specific means for this shrink-proofing process is as follows:
In addition to Publication No. 69, a special application was made by the craftsman Motoyama in 1982-2.
There is a method described in ltX in Publication No. 4974. For example, a sliver of wool fiber or the like is sprayed with an aqueous solution containing active chlorine, and this is introduced into a water-filled tube.
The chlorinated resin method, in which the wool fiber sliver is immersed in a near-vertical state deep to the bottom, is extremely effective in examining scale by chlorinating only the fiber surface using capillarity and hydrostatic pressure.

In this case, once the scale on the wool fiber surface has been completely examined, the surface of the fiber itself will be extremely smooth, and although it will become rich in luster, it will not be able to give it a deep luster like silk. It is preferable to leave a certain proportion of scale to maintain spinnability.

The places where pre-shrunk processing is applied are: hair washing → hair washing → card → re-washing gill → gill → comber → gill - preshrunk treatment is applied after gill → gill → comber → gill → gill. The top of the preshrunk scratch is made into a sliver.

Next, the mixing ratio of wool fiber and silk fiber will be explained.

The wool fiber content is at least 50% based on the total mm. When the amount of wool fibers is less than 50%, the wool's texture such as sliminess, flakiness, and stiffness decreases significantly, and the winding of silk fibers around each roller provided in each step of worsted spinning increases rapidly. , it becomes impossible to spin blended yarn at normal speed. - If the amount of blade-shaped fibers is less than 5%, the purpose of mixing silk fibers, such as the unique luster, sliminess, and texture, will be poor, and the purpose of using expensive silk fibers will be lost. be called.

The wool sliver and silk sliver thus produced are made into blended roving for spinning machines through the following steps. That is, both slivers are mixed in the mixer of the front spinning machine for worsted spinning, and then passed through a gill with an autoleveler → a high-speed gill → a high-speed finisher, during which doubling and drafting are repeated to form rovings for air false-twisting. Become.

Next, the spinning process of the blended roving according to the present invention will be explained based on an example of the apparatus shown in the drawings.

A typical example of an air false-twisting spinning device is the “
The spinning process of the present invention uses this apparatus. That is, as shown in FIG. 3, the blended roving (2) having the above-mentioned structure and drawn out from the can (1) has a pair of bank rollers (3), a pair of middle rollers (5) equipped with an apron (4), A fleece-like material is sequentially passed through a draft mechanism consisting of a pair of front rollers (6), and then passed through a ti41 air injection nozzle (7), a %fmt (8), and a second air injection nozzle (9).
), a single yarn (Y) having a structure to be described later is passed through a pull-out roller (10), and is wound up as a puff cage (11).

As schematically shown in Fig. 1, the spun single yarn (Y) constructed through this process has a structure different from that obtained by ring spinning, and is substantially free from real twisting. The inner layer fibers are bundled with each other by the outer layer fibers that are tightly wrapped around the inner layer miscellaneous bundle that does not have a staple fiber bundle, and one end of the single fiber of the staple fiber bundle is in the inner layer part of the produced yarn, and the other end of the fiber is in the outer layer part of the produced yarn. Really come out! ! The single fibers wound around the cane have a shape in which the array of each single fiber with each search is approximately M, and has an array direction.

Since the wool fibers and silk fibers used to obtain the blended yarn of the present invention have a predetermined long fiber length, the middle roller pair (5) of the draft machine III (12) shown in FIG.
) A hollow roller (13) having a structure as shown in Fig. IR5 is specially adopted as the top roller, and is configured to smoothly draft each fiber of a specific length.

This hollow roller (13) is manufactured with a small diameter in the center area of the outer circumferential surface, so that the hollow part (13) has an appropriate depth.
4) is formed. When using the apron (4)
is adapted to rotate in contact with this hollow portion (14). The depth of the hollow part (14) is determined according to the weight of the unit length of the supplied roving, and it is desirable to increase the depth for thick roving, for example, if the weight of the roving is 0.4 ~l
In the case of og/m, approximately 0.4 to 0.8 mm is appropriate. ** of this hollow roller (13) is the roving φ
Even if fibers are present that are longer than the roller gauge set in the trough 11 (which necessarily always occurs when using wool fibers and silk fibers as specified in the invention), the draft The purpose is to control the fibers so as not to cut them undesirably and not to disturb the draft of other fibers St groups.

Next, the mixing degree π specified in the claims of the present invention will be explained. As described above, in wool/thermal spinning, it is important to disperse the image constituent materials evenly in order to eliminate uneven dyeing after the product is made. In the present invention, the degree of such dispersion is As the evaluation value to be measured, the mixing degree π described in "The theory and practice of unevenness" published by Japan Textile Machinery Society, Japan, August 25, 1966, page 68, is adopted as a universal mixing degree evaluation value. There is.

To explain the calculation method of this evaluation value in detail with reference to Fig. 2, in Fig. 2 which is a cross section of a blended system of black fibers and white fibers, the same figure which is a two-dimensional fiber arrangement diagram is thinned as shown. It is expanded into a coil shape and replaced with a one-dimensional arrangement, and the evaluation value π of the degree of mixing is obtained as follows. 11. For white fibers, π: the proportion of white fibers that have white fibers on the right in the one-dimensional arrangement of the cross-sectional fibers of the blended yarn, g: the one-dimensional arrangement of the cross-sectional fibers of the dl-spun yarn. Number of groups of white fibers in the arrangement ω: Total number of white fibers in the cross section of the yarn, π−(
ω−g)/ω.

In the example in Figure 2, there are ω-30 lines, and g is from the outside 2.1.3.1.2·---2, 2, 1, (lines)
There are 1B groups in total, and the mixing degree π of white fibers in this case is t − (3
0-18) / 30-0.4.

From the results of this calculation method, it can be said that if the number of constituent fibers is the same, the larger the number of groups g, the smaller the value of π, and the better the mixing and dispersion.

The actual M values according to the blending ratio of silk with the mixing degree π described in the above-mentioned "Theory and Practice of Unevenness" are as shown in the table below.

Silk blend ratio: MJS yarn, ring yarn 5%
0.28 0.361O% 0.32
0.4220% 0.41 0
．． 4930% 0.48 0.5540
% 0.56 0.6250%
0.63 0.68 However, when the conventional mixed fiber state of ring yarn is made into a product, some dyeing spots occur, which is undesirable, and considering the fluctuation of raw materials for MJS yarn, there is a practical limit! The range is considered to be ≦1.05-0.0076 x (where X is the wool mixing ratio).

However, as shown in the examples described later, in the wool/thermal spinning of the present invention, the mixing degree based on the calculation method of Kamiayu is calculated as follows for wool fibers: π≦1.05−α00
By setting the ratio to 76x (where X is the mixing ratio of wool), there will be no trouble in dyeing fiber structures such as yarn, weaving, knitting, etc., and if π increases outside of this range, The mixing condition becomes poor, uneven dyeing occurs, and the product value rapidly decreases.

(Function) The blended yarn of the present invention made of wool fibers and silk fibers produced as described above has a supple feel and feel unique to spun yarn obtained by an air false-twisting spinning device, and also has wool fibers. , 1i fibers both have the maximum fiber length and average fiber length of the raw material fibers, so they have a texture unique to these fibers. Furthermore, the most distinctive feature of the yarn of the present invention is that
The blended roving is mixed with air in a spinning machine to achieve the mixing degree π specified above, and when dyed as a fiber structure such as yarn, woven fabric, 1lii, etc., no uneven dyeing occurs. The invention blended yarn will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

Example 1 Raw wool with an average fiber diameter of 22 # is passed through the normal process, namely, hair turning → washing → card → gill → rewashing gill → comb → gill - gill to make a 100% worsted sliver with a unit weight of 25 g / m was formed. The maximum fiber length of the sliver is 165m
m, and the average fiber length by the Perve method was 87.9 mm.

- The raw material for blade assembly is processed through the normal process, i.e. raw material preparation - obner batting gutter → card → 1st filament EII - comber - 2nd filament machine to form into a sliver made of 100% silk and having a unit weight of 6.25 g/m did. The maximum fiber length of the sliver is 18
0 mm, average fiber length by barbé method is 50.7 mm
Met.

14 of the worsted slivers, 14 of the silk slivers,
At the same time, the spinning process is first blended in the mixer of the carding process, then transferred to the pre-spinning process of the air false-twisting type spinning device listed in Table 1, and 0.94 g/m roving for spinning (can storage).
I got it.

The thus obtained wool fibers I180% and silk fibers I! 2
The MJS spinning roving of 0% (all weight ratios) was loaded into MJS manufactured by Ichita Kikai Seisakusho with the specifications shown in Table 2 to obtain a blended yarn of the present invention having a count of 50 cm (c meter count).

Table 2 On the other hand, as a comparative example, 14 100% wool worsted slivers and 14 silk slivers were simultaneously mixed in the mixer for the worsting process, and the ring spinning machine pre-spinning process described in Table 183 0.333
A roving for ring spinning (Pole 1) of g/m was obtained.

The thus obtained ring-spun roving of 80% wool and 20% silk fiber (both by weight) was placed in the ring spinning machine shown in Table 4, and a 50-count (meter-count) blended yarn for comparison was produced. Obtained.

Table 4 Above two types of blended spun yarns and these twin yarns are used.The single yarn strength and elongation in the table above are JfSL10957.5 single yarn elongation strength and elongation rate (using a constant speed tension tester). Value at grip distance 1150cm, tensile speed 30cm/m1n), 0
%, Th1n (-50%), Th1ck (+50%),
Neps (+200%) is JISL1095 7.20
System unevenness measured by method A and method B. Mixing degree π was measured randomly by cross-section of the yarn, microscope magnification: $75, photographic enlargement magnification: 4 times,
This is the average value obtained by photographing 10 locations at a total magnification of 300x and using the above calculation method over one summer.

The roller gauge of MJSII's draft device is 103 mm between the front roller and cradle roller, 107 mm between the cradle roller and back roller, and the groove depth of the hollow roller is 0.6 mm.

As can be understood from the results in Table 5 above, the blended yarn according to the present invention has approximately the same yarn strength and elongation as the blended yarn obtained by the conventional ring spinning method, while reducing the number of steps in the pre-spinning process. Furthermore, it is possible to completely eliminate dyeing spots when woven or knitted.

Example 2 In the pre-spinning process of Example 1, by changing the number of steps and the number of doublings, 50 count (
An MJS blend yarn of metric count) was obtained. The wool fibers and silk fibers used in this example, as well as the blending ratio of both, are the same as in Example 1.

The 50 count blended yarn was woven into a flat weave with 56 warps and 56 wefts, and then dyed dark blue, and the presence of staining spots was visually determined. From the results shown in Table 6 and above, it can be seen that when the degree of mixing π becomes 0.46 or more, staining spots suddenly become noticeable and the product value decreases.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the present invention is applicable to wool/thermal spinning system spinning! ! ! By cleverly utilizing airflow, we were able to eliminate the uneven fiber blending that occurs when we mix fibers with a relatively long fiber length of over 100 mm, which was proposed, and ensure that the resulting yarn maintains uniformity. It has the bulkiness of wool fibers and the feel of silk fibers, has the unique appearance of yarn produced by the air false-twisting method, and has the unique appearance of yarns produced by the air false-twisting method. It will be completely resolved.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the shape and structure of the blended spun yarn of the present invention, Figure 2 is an explanatory diagram to explain the degree of mixing, and Figure 3 is used to manufacture the yarn shown in Figure 1. FIG. 4 is a perspective view showing the main parts of the apparatus shown in FIG. 142, and FIG. 5 is a plan view showing the shape of the hollow roller. (1)...Cans, (2)...Phase system, (3
)... Bank roller pair, (4)... Apron, (5)... Middle roller pair, (6)... Front roller pair, (7)... First air swirl nozzle, (8 )...Defibration tube, (9)...Second air swirl nozzle, (10)...Drawing roller, (11)...Package, (12)...Draft mechanism, (13)... ... Hollow roller, (14) -- Hollow section. (Y)...Single thread

Claims (1)

[Claims] A blended staple fiber bundle consisting of wool fibers and silk fibers is spun into an air false-twisting type spinning device consisting of two air injection nozzles that create swirling airflows with opposite rotational directions within each nozzle. A blended yarn produced by supplying and spinning a staple fiber bundle, in which one end of the single fiber of the staple fiber bundle is in the inner layer of the yarn, and the other end of the fiber comes out to the outer layer of the yarn and is wound into a real twist, so that each The wound single fibers are arranged in substantially the same direction, and the wool fiber has a maximum fiber length of 100 mm or more and an average fiber length of 55 m by barbé method.
m or more, while silk fibers have a maximum fiber length of 150 to 24
0 mm, the average fiber length by barbé method is 45 mm or more, and the wool fiber is 50 to 95% (weight ratio) of the total amount.
1. A wool/silk blend yarn containing the above-mentioned wool fibers and having wool fibers dispersed in the blend yarn with a mixing degree π expressed by the following formula. π≦1.05-0.0076x π=(ω-g)/(ω) However, x: Mixing ratio of wool (%) (weight ratio) π: In a blended yarn consisting of wool fiber and silk fiber, its cross-sectional fiber When expanded and arranged in one dimension, the degree of mixing is expressed as the proportion of wool fibers that have wool fibers on the right side.Evaluation value ω: Number of wool fibers in the cross section of the blended yarng: Blend yarn consisting of wool fibers and silk fibers When the cross-sectional fibers are expanded and arranged in one dimension, the number of groups of wool fibers is