JPH0390607A - Method for expressing three-dimensional pattern of dress raw material - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To express the subject pattern having a rich fashion property and used for women' wears by converting a pattern drawn on the three-dimensional shape of dress into a model piece shape-like plane pattern, computing and arranging cutting model pieces on a raw fabric and printing coloring materials to express the control information of the pattern and sawing. CONSTITUTION:The three-dimensional shape of dress and the data of model piece shapes constituting the three-dimensional shape are inputted into a digitizer 2 and the data of the pattern is inputted into an image scanner 3. The pattern drawn on the three-dimensional shape of the dress is converted into a plane pattern of model piece shapes and the cutting model pieces are computed and disposed with a central processing unit 1 so as to minimize the sizes of the raw material raw fabric on the raw material raw fabric. A magnetic tape 8 is used as a delivery medium of ink jet printing information and an ink jet printer 10 is controlled with a control computer 9 on the basis of the printing information. Colorants are printed on the raw material raw fabric and the colorants regenerate the information for controlling colors and patterns edged in the cutting model piece shapes and for sewing the pieces, thereby expressing the three-dimensional pattern of the dress raw material.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a method for expressing three-dimensional patterns of clothing materials, in which a pattern suitable for the three-dimensional shape of clothing is designed and quickly reproduced on a raw material.

(Prior art and its problems) Patterns and color schemes of clothing materials (hereinafter abbreviated as materials) that harmonize with the silhouette of clothing can be freely expressed using design drawings.

However, in order to realize this image of the material, various constraints in material manufacturing technology must first be overcome.

For example, in printing materials that have the ability to express a variety of patterns, there are restrictions such as the number of colors, pattern repeat length, and pattern feed joint, and these restrictions also include the equipment capacity and technical capabilities of the material manufacturer, the material quality, etc. What differs depending on the case is the back passage.

Therefore, it cannot actually be manufactured unless the material is designed with these restrictions in mind.

On the other hand, in the production of clothing, sewing techniques such as cuts, tucks, darts, and pleats are often used to take advantage of the elegant silhouette of clothing and make it comfortable to wear.

The design of the material is expressed on a flat surface, so if a three-dimensional shape is constructed using this technique, the design may become discontinuous or distorted, and depending on the composition and arrangement of the design, the design motif of the material may not be fully utilized. It will disappear and it is not aesthetically pleasing.

For this reason, patterned materials are usually used for clothing that has a narrow silhouette and does not use many sewing techniques as mentioned above.

As mentioned above, the fresh and unrestrained sensibilities and creativity of designers are considerably constrained by traditional clothing techniques, and even if these constraints are overcome, it is difficult to create new materials with high originality. It takes a lot of time and effort, and there is no flexible technology system that can respond to diversifying needs, higher sensitivity, and shorter cycles.

Under these circumstances, instead of creating materials based on the total design of clothing, people choose materials that are close to the planning concept from among the materials proposed by material manufacturers, and then create designs that bring out the characteristics of that material. There is. Although this is not the original procedure, it can be said to be one way to deal with the difficulties of material design and procurement.

(Objective of the Invention) The object of the present invention is to remove all the above-mentioned restrictions when determining the pattern and color scheme of clothing materials, and to enable a free-spirited design that harmonizes with the clothing silhouette. Clothes that directly connect and integrate the material manufacturing process with the design and produce clothing materials that express colors and patterns in cut pieces, making it possible to produce clothing products in a short time without damaging the design image. The second purpose is to provide a method for expressing three-dimensional patterns on materials.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention consists of a pre-process and a post-process consisting of the following means.

That is, the pre-process is a clothing design process that consists of means for developing a design drawn on the three-dimensional shape of the clothing into a two-dimensional pattern in the form of a mold piece.

The post-process includes the steps of arranging and calculating the cut pieces on the original fabric so that the required length of the material is minimized based on the clothing manufacturing specifications determined in the previous process, and the inkjet printing of the coloring material on the original fabric. The method is characterized in that the coloring material is configured to color a color pattern and sewing process control information bordered on the shape of a cutting mold piece.

In addition, as is clear from the above explanation, the three-dimensional pattern in Honshokumei does not mean that the pattern itself is uneven, but refers to a three-dimensional pattern of clothing that is expressed by the state in which it is worn, etc., and the present invention refers to this. It reproduces on the material quickly, appropriately and effectively.

The present invention will be explained in more detail below with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a block diagram illustrating the method of the present invention;
The procedure will be explained below.

In the above-mentioned procedure, which is a feature of the pre-process, the coordinates of arbitrary screen elements projected on the graphic display screen that express the three-dimensional shape of the clothing and the coordinates of each material-type office element constituting the clothing in the plane coordinate element are calculated. It is necessary to make a 1:l correspondence between the values.

(B1.2.3> When projecting three-dimensional shape data composed of a collection of surface elements onto a screen, adjust the angle and viewpoint to determine the position of the shape that is easy to depict.

At this time, it is possible to cut out any partial mold piece and use it as the object to be depicted, but the effect of the present invention is to express a uniform pattern by using the entire clothing as the object to be depicted. (Bl) The design may be used by searching f) the desired design from the design database, it may be created using computer graphics drawing ability, or it may be combined.

The desired design is placed on the clothing shape projected on the screen, at the base point,
The pattern matching relationship consisting of direction and magnification is determined and pasted together.

For example, if a motif is drawn directly on the surface of the material using a pressure pen, a pattern with strong aesthetic impact and direction can be obtained.

You can use the registered color scheme of the design, or you can repaint the part you want to change with any color selected from 16.7 million colors. There is no limit to the number of colors and it is easy to express natural gradations. (B2) Next, the color values of the screen elements on which the three-dimensional shape is projected are transferred to the plane coordinate positions of the corresponding mold pieces and displayed as the plane pattern of the mold pieces. (B3) If necessary, this planar pattern can be corrected or transformed, or it can be combined with subordinate patterns that are dispersed throughout to make the main motif stand out. It can give character and change. (B2
) The pattern correction on the plane of the mold piece can be reconfirmed by converting it into a three-dimensional shape and displaying it again, and if necessary, the above-mentioned procedure can be repeated until the target image is obtained. (Bl, 2.3
) Once a desirable clothing image has been obtained, in order to realize it, technical information on each process of material production, pattern arrangement, cutting, sewing, and finishing is searched and manufacturing specifications are set interactively.

At this time, if the material has special 81 properties, such as antifouling properties or antibacterial properties, specify it, confirm the estimated price and delivery date, and proceed with the clothing order procedure.

(B4) The worn state of the clothing and the flat image of the material are stored on the optical desk as part of the manufacturing specification information, but at the same time they are output on paper using a color printer, an inkjet printer with a resolution of 8 dots 71 or higher. Since printers can express realistic textures of materials, designers and clients can evaluate the reproducibility by comparing with finished clothing.

(B5) Clothing manufacturing specification information must be accurately and quickly transmitted to the material manufacturing department, but high-speed digital line specifications are effective because large amounts of data including image information will be transmitted.

In our country, it is normal for the clothing design department and the material manufacturing department to be separate corporate entities, and in this case, the total size is 64 Kb.
It is desirable to transmit via a public digital line 1Iq (ISDN) with a speed of PS or higher. (B7) In the material manufacturing process, first, cut pieces are placed on the original material based on manufacturing specification information from the clothing design department. .

At this time, by using the inspection information of the original material, if there is a partial defect on the original material that should be avoided, it is possible to arrange the cutting mold pieces so that the required length of the material is minimized while avoiding such defects. (87) The placement method is a so-called computerized marking technique that includes an interactive method, and any technique is not critical as long as it can be executed effectively.

In the present invention, as long as the grain of the material and the direction of the mold pieces are matched, any coloring material and functional leaf material can be applied to any position on the material, so there is no need for any troublesome pattern matching work. . (B8> Based on the cutting mold piece placement information set in the previous step, the desired pattern/color scheme, process control information, coloring material that exhibits functionality, and functional leaf material are applied to the predetermined position of the raw material using an inkjet method. Set the printing conditions for attaching.

Here, the sewing process control information includes identification symbols, reference line information, and positioning information, and temporary information to be erased after use uses marking material that can be easily removed in the final sewing process. (B9) The method of inkjet printing output is not particularly specified, and any method such as an electromechanical conversion type, an electrothermal conversion type, an electrostatic suction type, etc. may be used.

In order to obtain suitable printing quality, ink viscosity, surface strength,
Although it is important to set conditions in which the ink ejection mechanism and the fine details of the nozzle section are balanced, the present invention does not concern the details thereof. (BIO) (Implementation rJA) Examples of the present invention will be described below.

FIG. 2 shows the configuration of the device used in this example. In the figure, 1 is a central processing unit, 2 is a digitizer, 3 is an image scanner, 4 is a magnetic disk, 5 is an optical disk, 6 is a graphic workstation, 7 is an inkjet color printer, 8 is a magnetic tape, and 9 is a control computer. , 10 is an inkjet printing device.

The central processing unit 1 controls and executes input/output and arithmetic processing, the digitizer 2 inputs data on the three-dimensional shape of clothing and the shape of the mold pieces that constitute it, and the image scanner 3 inputs pattern data. The porcelain disk 4 stores information regarding the physical properties, functionality, and wearability of the material, as well as information regarding the clothing V-laying technology in each process of material production, pattern arrangement, cutting, sewing, and finishing, and the previous disk 5 stores information regarding the three-dimensional shape of the clothing. , stores a large amount of image information such as mold piece shapes, human body shapes, designs, etc. The graphic workstation 6 has a high-definition display area and serves as an interface for interactive design work.

The inkjet color printer 7 outputs the clothing design image on paper. The porcelain tape 8 is used as a delivery medium for inkjet printing information, and the control computer 9 uses this printing information to control the inkjet printing apparatus 10 and number the coloring material on the original material.

Note that in this embodiment, the clothing (2) design and material manufacturing were performed within the same company, so the functions of the device configuration were not separated through the transmission and reception of clothing manufacturing specifications.

FIG. 3 is a flowchart of this embodiment, which is applied to embodiments 1 and 2 described below.

Example 1 In this practical example, a design is directly drawn on the surface of a three-dimensional material of clothing.
The aim was to obtain a material with a pattern that matched the three-dimensional shape.

The master design searched the design database according to the information and selected a cool blouse with French sleeves and no collar, with a tuck.The material was cotton voile (Sl).The three-dimensional shape of the front of the blouse was selected. ,
The viewpoint was set at the center and projected onto the screen, and a floral pattern as shown in Figure 4 was drawn on it using a digitizer. (S5) Next, this is converted into a planar pattern in the form of a mold piece, as shown in FIG.

The parts of the three-dimensional shape that were obscured by the pockets and tucks are now visible. (S6) I aligned the design on the pocket mold piece and copied it as is, and then processed the tuck part to make the design at each tuck end continuous, making the background color a light, cream color. 6
This is the goal of material production. (
S8) Figure 7 shows Figure 6 converted into a three-dimensional shape to confirm it. (S9-33) (In addition, in Figures 4 to 7, the ground color is light cream,
The flowers are red and the flowers are colored green. ) Next, I printed out an inkjet print using the automatically set seam allowance to match the next color of the pale cream background color, and then cut, sewed, and finished it using the Handmate for about a day.

The image was well reproduced in terms of shape, pattern, and color scheme.

In addition, we were able to create clothing with a large pattern that was difficult to achieve using conventional clothing manufacturing specifications, and with a seamless design and materials that were integrated into one piece. In particular, the movement of the tuck part when in operation was beautiful and had a sense of unity, and was highly evaluated by the packagers.

Example 2 This Example 2 confirms the pattern deformation function and uses the quality control information of the raw material to determine the required length of the material while avoiding any partial defects on the raw material that should be avoided. The purpose was to confirm the function of arranging the cutting mold pieces so that the

For the master design, we chose a trendy silhouette with dolman sleeves and a narrow waist, combined with a flared skirt on the bias, and selected linen and cotton crepe fabric for the material. (S
l) A simple warp knit design was specified for ease of evaluation. The knitted patterns are neatly arranged on the plane of the material, but in the three-dimensional shape, the patterns become discontinuous on the suture line of the darts, and the knitted patterns become slanted at the cuffs, which is not aesthetically pleasing.

In order to correct this and harmonize the knitting pattern with the silhouette line, we changed the design by aligning the patterns on the suture line and making the striped line from shoulder 1 to the cuff naturally parallel to the cuff. (85-39) The cutting mold pieces A and B in FIG. 8 are shown on the flat mold pieces after such corrections.

(S6) The original fabric was 92(2) wide, 6m wide, and had defects such as kisses in several places, so we prepared a so-called C-refutation fabric that cannot normally be used for 1m. (S21) The quality inspection information of the raw material has defect areas and defect codes in orthogonal coordinates, with the X axis in the r1J direction and the Y axis in the length direction.

The defect area to be avoided is represented by a rectangle with sides parallel to the orthogonal axis, and the coordinate values of the 2m point are (Xl, Yl).

(X2, Y2) Xl<Xl, Yl<Y2.

The only restriction on the placement of the winter pattern piece is to match the grain of the material and the direction of the pattern piece within the usable area on the original fabric, and there is no need to be conscious of the pattern or color scheme. FIG. 8 shows mold pieces placed interactively while avoiding defective areas displayed on the plane of the graphic display device. (321~
29) FIG. 8 also shows a material that has developed a color pattern that is framed by a cut piece shape that is the target of inkjet printing output.

For reference, FIG. 9 shows an arrangement of mold pieces assuming similar defect areas to be avoided in conventional mold piece arrangement with pattern matching as a constraint.

Compared to the latter, the former has a required length of 6.3 in this example.
% less. Furthermore, since there are no restrictions on troublesome pattern matching, the number of trials and errors is small, and the time required for arrangement is only a few minutes.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the present invention has freed all the constraints on pattern and color scheme design techniques in conventional material manufacturing.

Furthermore, it has become possible to create clothing designs that do not cause pattern discontinuity or distortion even when sewing techniques such as notches, tucks, darts, and pleats are used.

Furthermore, in order to commercialize the garment without damaging its design image, time and material losses were reduced through effective use of raw materials, elimination of pattern matching work, and accurate control of cutting and sewing processes.

This effect is particularly noticeable in high-mix, small-volume, short-cycle production systems, such as women's clothing, which is highly fashionable and requires quick response and flexibility.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a block diagram of the entire invention, FIG. 2 is a device configuration diagram of an embodiment, and FIG. 301 is a flowchart of the embodiment.
Figures 4, 5, 6, and 7 show the designs drawn in Example 1, Figure 8 shows the design deformation and mold piece arrangement in Example 2, and Figure 9 shows the design drawn in Example 2. The mold piece arrangement is shown for comparison with Example 2. Figure 3-1 Figure 9

Claims (1)

[Claims] The design drawn on the three-dimensional shape of clothing is converted into a two-dimensional pattern in the shape of a mold piece, and the cutting mold pieces are placed and calculated on the raw material so that the required length of the raw material is minimized, and the material is A clothing material characterized in that a coloring material is inkjet-printed onto a raw fabric, and the coloring material is configured to express a color pattern and sewing process control information framed in the shape of a cut piece. Three-dimensional pattern expression method.