JPH0375648B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a highly twisted yarn-like specially processed yarn that provides strong twist effects such as a delicate silky feel, drapability, weight, and elastic texture similar to a highly twisted yarn, and unevenness similar to a spun yarn on the fabric surface. . More specifically, in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the filaments are bundled and thinned without being fused to each other; an untwisted part with a length on the order of meters, and an over-twisted part with a length on the order of meters. Yarn portion 1 is formed by alternating the untwisted portion and the over-twisted portion, in which the untwisted portion is substantially absent in the twist direction changing portion between the untwisted portion and the over-twisted portion, and the untwisted portion and the over-twisted portion. The untwisted yarn portion 2 exists at irregular intervals and has an irregular length in the twisting direction changing portion between the untwisted portion and the untwisted yarn portion 1. Both the part and the over-untwisted part relate to highly twisted yarn-like specially processed yarn having a low initial elastic modulus. Conventionally, techniques for alternately forming untwisted parts and over-twisted parts by actively performing unsteady false twisting during false twisting are disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 49-8414 and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 49-108353. Publication No. 51-49949,
It has been proposed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 53-61745. These yarn twisting techniques utilize the transient phenomenon of twist propagation, and depending on the yarn speed and the intermittent period of false twisting, the length of the untwisted part and the overly untwisted part is 1 to 2 m or more. Alternately twisted yarns can be formed in the above manner, but all of these conventional techniques have untwisted portions of considerable length, and the twist density of the untwisted portions and overtwisted portions is low. Therefore, not only a high degree of strong twisting effect could not be obtained, but also the design effect was poor. On the other hand, many techniques have been introduced in which untwisted portions and overtwisted portions are alternately formed by performing a fixed false twisting operation. For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 56-91018 recommends setting the false twisting heat setting temperature to a high temperature near the fusion temperature, or using filament yarns with a wide range of melting temperatures such as acrylic synthetic fibers or partially undrawn yarns. By false-twisting the filaments at a high temperature, the filaments are fused together to cause untwisting defects, and only the number of twists that have failed in untwisting (the number of untwisted twists) remains as an over-twisted part. A method of making S and Z alternately twisted yarns by twisting is described. In addition, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 52-70143 discloses that by taking advantage of the fact that the melting temperature of acrylonitrile synthetic fibers is unclear, false twisting is performed at high temperatures to prevent untwisting defects due to mutual fusion between filaments. A method is disclosed in which an untwisted part and an overtwisted part are generated to form an S and Z alternately twisted yarn. In all of these methods, S and Z alternate twists are formed due to poor untwisting due to mutual fusion of filaments during fixed-strand false twisting, so the number of twists remaining in the obtained alternately twisted yarn is The number of twists remains as is due to fusion bonding of the filaments, and the number of twists is as high as the number of false twists, but since the yarn is twisted continuously in one direction, downstream of the twisting point, the number of twisted twists is as high as the number of false twists. The parts are twisted in the opposite direction, and the untwisted parts are inevitably separated,
Therefore, it is never possible to obtain a twisted part with a length of centimeter order or more, and no matter how much this technology is developed, it is theoretically impossible to lengthen the twisted part, and unraveled parts of meter order cannot be obtained. However, it was not possible to obtain an over-twisted part. In addition, these processed yarns have non-twisted bulky parts randomly between short untwisted parts and short over-twisted parts, so the frequency of non-twisted bulky parts is high; When processed yarn is made into a fabric, a uniform pattern is formed over the entire surface, and the slub yarn-like pattern effect sought by the present invention cannot be obtained, nor can the highly twisted yarn-like texture effect be obtained. In order to eliminate the drawbacks of the conventional alternating twist yarn, the present inventors have grasped the phenomenon of alternating twist yarn formation during active unsteady false twisting operations and investigated the principle, and as a result, the conventional alternating twist forming means has a special By adding and combining various processing operations, we can synergistically enhance the twisting effect and create strong twists with a strong twisting feel, drapability, weight, and elastic texture that have never been achieved before. The present invention was achieved by successfully obtaining an alternately twisted yarn that can give a strong twist effect and spun yarn-like unevenness to the fabric surface. To provide a highly twisted yarn-like specially processed yarn capable of imparting unevenness to the fabric surface. That is, the present invention provides an untwisted portion having a length including a meter order with twist in the false twisting direction, and an overly untwisted portion having a length including a meter order having a twist in the false twisting and untwisting direction. The filament yarns are formed by alternating with each other, and the filaments in these twisted parts have a twist number distribution in the longitudinal direction without being fused to each other, and the average number of twists is 8000/√(T/M) The above is the yarn portion 1 in which the untwisted portion is substantially absent in the twist direction changing portion from the untwisted portion to the overly twisted portion and the twisting direction changing portion from the overly twisted portion to the untwisted portion. and yarn portion 2 in which a non-twisted portion exists in the twist direction change portion from the untwisted portion to the over-untwisted portion and the twist direction change portion from the over-untwisted portion to the untwisted portion, respectively. The yarn portions 1 are present at irregular intervals and at irregular lengths, and the yarn portions 1
The untwisted part and the over-untwisted part are characterized by an initial elastic modulus of 40 g/d, which is a highly twisted yarn-like specially processed yarn. The present invention will now be described in detail. First, the processed yarn of the present invention can be produced by the method described below, but in the method described below, an untwisted part is formed when the yarn is in a state where twisting is stopped, and when the yarn is untwisted. An overtwisted portion is formed. The processed yarn of the present invention has a twist direction changing part formed when the yarn is changed from a untwisted state to a twisted state, that is, a twist direction changing part from an untwisted part to an overly untwisted part, and a yarn. The twisting direction changing part that is formed when the thread changes from the twisted state to the untwisting state of the yarn, that is, the twisting direction changing part from the over-untwisted part to the untwisted part, has a substantially non-twisted part. The yarn portion 1 that does not exist, the twist direction changing portion from the untwisted portion to the overly untwisted portion, and the twist direction changing portion from the overly untwisted portion to the untwisted portion each have a non-twisted portion. The yarn portion 1 and the yarn portion 2 are present at irregular intervals and at irregular lengths in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The fact that there is substantially no untwisted part here means that the untwisted part that has become a non-twisted state or a low-twisted state in the twisting direction conversion part does not reduce the high degree of strong twisting effect that is the object of the present invention. It also refers to the fact that the yarn-like uneven effect of other non-twisted parts is inconspicuous so as to effectively exhibit the effect, and specifically, the number of twists is
This refers to cases where the part below 100T/M is less than 1cm. In order to express a highly twisted effect and natural unevenness similar to spun yarn on the fabric surface, it is important that most of the threads have a high twist density, and in order to express the natural unevenness, there is no twisting. The existence of yarn sections means that they are present at random intervals and at random lengths, and if there are too many untwisted sections or twisted sections with low twist density, a high degree of strong twist effect cannot be obtained, and the fabric will not have a crisp feel and will be bulky. Get close to the cloth. On the other hand, if there are no untwisted portions in all of the twist direction changing portions, it is not possible to express spun yarn-like natural unevenness. However, in the processed yarn of the present invention, there is substantially no untwisted portion in the twist direction change portion from the untwisted portion to the over-untwisted portion and the twist direction change portion from the over-untwisted portion to the untwisted portion. The thread portions 1 and the thread portions 2 in which the non-twist portions of these twist direction changing portions are present are alternately or consecutively arranged. Since the processed yarn of the present invention has a high twist density in both the untwisted part and the excessively untwisted part, there is a boundary between the untwisted part, the untwisted part and the overly untwisted part, that is, the highly twisted yarn part. is clear, and therefore a highly twisted effect and natural spun yarn-like unevenness can be expressed on the fabric surface. In addition, in order to sufficiently achieve the strong twist effect, the yarn section 1 should be designed to occupy the majority of the yarn, or if the surface effect is to be expressed more, the yarn section 2 should be increased as appropriate. can. However, in order to more effectively exhibit the strong twist effect, which is the object of the present invention, it is preferable that the yarn portion 1 is present in the yarn in an amount of 50% or more. FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of _the processed yarn of the present invention, which is composed of an untwisted part A1 having twist in the false twisting direction and an overtwisted part _C1 having twist in the false twisting and untwisting direction. The untwisted part B 1 between the untwisted part A ₁ and the over-untwisted part C ₁ and the untwisted part D ₁ between the over-untwisted part C ₁ and the untwisted part A ₂ that follows _are a yarn portion 1 that is substantially absent;
The untwisted part A 2 is composed of an untwisted part A ₂ having a twist in the false-twisting direction and an over-untwisted part C ₂ having a twist in the false-untwisting direction, and the ununtwisted part A ₂ and the over-untwisted part C The thread portion ₂ in which the bulky non-twisted portion B ₂ and the over-untwisted portion _{C 2} exist between the untwisted portion A 1 and the bulky non-twisted portion D ₂ between the untwisted portion A ₁ and the untwisted portion B 2 are random lengths. exist alternately. Fig. 1 shows a part where yarn portion 1 and yarn portion 2 exist alternately, but yarn portion 1 and yarn portion 2
can be arbitrarily formed so that they exist alternately or consecutively. If the thread part 1 is continuous, the untwisted part following the over-untwisted part _C1 is _A1 , and if the thread part 2 is continuous, the untwisted part is the over-untwisted part C1.
The untwisted part following C ₂ becomes A ₂ , and the untwisted part following the untwisted part becomes A 1 or A depending on whether the following yarn part is yarn part ₁ or yarn part 2. ₂ . Next, both the untwisted part A ₁ and the overtwisted part C ₁ of the yarn portion 1 in the processed yarn have an initial elastic modulus of 40.
g/d or less. The drapability of fibrous fabrics is related to the initial elastic modulus of the yarn used.In order to improve the drapability of the fabric, it is necessary for the yarn to have a low initial elastic modulus; Drapability can be imparted to the fabric when it is about 40 g/d or less. Conventional alternately twisted yarns have not been able to improve fabric drape properties by reducing their initial elastic modulus, but the untwisted portion, which is the highly twisted yarn portion, of the processed yarn of the present invention
A ₁ and the over-twisted portion C ₁ have an initial elastic modulus of 40 g/d or less. This initial elastic modulus is less than 50% of the supplied yarn, for example in the case of polyester filament yarn.
30g/d or less, for nylon filament yarn
It is possible to make it 20g/d or less. Thus, according to the processed yarn of the present invention in which the strongly twisted yarn portion is present in preferably 50% or less of the yarn, superior drape properties can be imparted to the fibrous fabric. FIG. 2 is a graph showing the relationship between the untwisted portion A ₁ and the overly twisted portion C ₁ of the processed yarn of the present invention and the initial stress and elongation of the supplied raw yarn. The initial elastic modulus is expressed by the following formula () and corresponds to the initial tensile resistance (g/d) described in JIS L-1013. Initial modulus of elasticity (g/d) = P/(l'/l) x d...() Where, P: Load at elongation l' when the sample is pulled (g) d: Fineness of yarn ( (denier) l: Sample length l': Amount of elongation when the sample is pulled The value obtained by dividing the The initial elastic modulus of the supplied yarn I shown in Figure 2 is 95g/
d [When the elongation is 3.16%, the stress is 3 g/d, ()
According to the formula, 3/(3.16/100) = 95 g/d], whereas the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted part B of the processed yarn of the present invention is 20 g/d [when the elongation is 14.9%, the stress is 3 g/d]. d, and from formula () 3/(14.9/100)=20g/d],
The initial elastic modulus of the over-twisted part C is 19 g/d [elongation 15.0%
When , the stress is 2.85g/d, and from formula ()
2.85/(15.0/100)=19 g/d], and it can be seen that the initial elastic modulus is low in both the untwisted part and the over-twisted part. Next, the method and principle for manufacturing the specially processed yarn of the present invention will be explained. First, regarding the formation of the non-twisted portion of conventional alternately twisted yarn, we will explain the case of false twisting by intermittent fluid twisting. By passing fluid through the nozzle intermittently, the yarn is repeatedly wound and stopped, and the yarn is processed using the transient phenomenon of false twisting. In this case, an untwisted part _A2 is formed when the fluid is stopped, an overtwisted part C2 is formed when the fluid is supplied, and _{an untwisted part B2 is} formed between the untwisted part _A2 and the overtwisted part _C2 . However, a non-twisted portion D 2 is formed between the over-untwisted portion C ₂ and the following _untwisted portion A ₂ . The formation of the non-twisted portion _B2 will be explained using FIG. 3. 1 in FIG. 3 shows a state in which the supply of fluid to the nozzle is stopped and an untwisted portion _A2 is formed. Next, when the supply of fluid to the nozzle is started as shown in ₂ in FIG. Part _A2 is strongly twisted and firmly fixed, and this untwisting action does not lead to over-untwisting, but only untwists the untwisted part _A2 ,
This is because the result is a non-twisted portion _B2 . 3 in FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the subsequent formation of the over-twisted portion _C2 . Next, the formation of the non-twisted portion _D2 will be explained using FIG. 4. 1 in FIG. 4 shows a state in which fluid is supplied to the nozzle and an over-twisted portion _C2 is formed. Next, as shown in 2 in Fig. 4, when the supply of fluid to the nozzle is stopped, the yarn in the untwisting zone centering on the twisting section near the nozzle is transferred to the over-twisting section C ₂ and the twisting zone. A certain yarn becomes an untwisted part _A2 , but it becomes an untwisted part _D2 because the twists of these twisted parts cancel each other out by the torques of the twisted parts having different directions. 3 in Figure 4 is the untwisted part after this.
FIG. ₂ is a diagram showing the formation of A2. In this way, the non-twisted part B ₂ and the non-twisted part D ₂ are formed.
exists between the untwisted part A ₂ and the over-twisted part C ₂ along the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and between the over-untwisted part C ₂ and the untwisted part A ₂ . Therefore, when these yarns are made into fiber fabrics, non-twisted portions appear frequently, and the alternating twists imparted are too light to bring about a converging effect and are far from being called strong twists, making them preferable as clothing fabrics. This is because conventional alternately twisted yarns do not stretch. In order to make such alternately twisted yarn have both a strong twist effect and natural spun yarn-like unevenness, it is necessary to prevent the formation of non-twisted parts that exhibit a strong twist effect and unnecessary pattern patterns, and to express spun yarn-like unevenness. This required a technique that goes beyond the common sense of conventional alternately twisted yarns, in which only the non-twisted portions necessary for this purpose are actively present to the extent that the strong twisting effect is not diminished. The present inventors have carefully observed the transient phenomenon of false twisting in the above-mentioned false twisting process, and as a result of various experiments, the inventors have found that by applying a specific processing operation to the conventional technology, the formation of non-twisted portions can be prevented. It has been found that the specially processed yarn of the present invention can be obtained in which the yarn portion 1 and the yarn portion 2 representing a uneven portion in which non-twisted portions are actively present are mixed. That is, the yarn portion 1 of the processed yarn of the present invention is formed by using, for example, a roller having a variable speed function in conjunction with the supply and stop of fluid to the nozzle as a supply roller in a false twisting process using a nozzle. , if we first thread the yarn at a predetermined high overfeed rate and simultaneously increase the speed of the variable bunching rollers while supplying fluid to the nozzle, the yarn runs at a higher overfeed rate and thus in the untwisting zone. Twisting with ballooning. In this case, ballooning in the untwisting zone causes the nozzle and delivery roller to vibrate as nodes of string vibration, so the untwisted parts in the untwisting zone are delivered sequentially from the vicinity of the nozzle due to the propagation of twist. Rather than unraveling to the roller section, the untwisted portion near the delivery roller is loosened by string vibration and becomes easier to untwist, so the twist of the yarn reaches the delivery roller all at once. However, the untwisted portion in the untwisting zone can be made into an over-untwisted portion, thus preventing the formation of a no-twisted portion between the untwisted portion and the following over-untwisted portion. This state will be explained using FIG. 5. 1 in FIG. 5 shows a state in which the supply of fluid to the nozzle is stopped and untwisted portions 4 are formed. Then the fifth
As shown in 2 in the figure, when the fluid is started to be supplied to the nozzle and the yarn is over-supplied, unlike a mechanical false twisting spindle, it is used as a twisting device.
Because it uses a nozzle that sprays high-pressure fluid,
Stable false twisting is possible even when the speed of the variable bundle roller is increased, and since the amount of twist of the yarn increases by increasing the overfeed rate, the twist during twisting when fluid is supplied is 2. It becomes a heavy twist or a semi-double twist, and can be twisted at a high density, and a high number of twists can remain in the yarn. The fact that the twist state during twisting becomes double twist or semi-double twist means that the length of the yarn after untwisting is significantly longer than in the case of normal false twisting. It also has the advantage of increasing column ballooning. Furthermore, since the textured yarn obtained in this way has a high number of twists, the elongation stress component changes to shear slip stress during elongation, exhibiting a high elongation strain with respect to the initial low stress, and the initial elasticity of the textured yarn changes. The rate can be significantly reduced to less than 50% of that of the supplied yarn. In this way, a high number of twists can be left in the yarn, and the formation of a non-twisted part B ₁ in the part where the twist direction changes from the untwisted part A ₁ to the over-twisted part C ₁ can be eliminated. The initial elastic modulus of both twisted portions can be reduced to 40 g/d or less. After supplying the fluid to the nozzle as described above, the fluid supply is then stopped, but at the same time as the fluid supply is stopped, the speed of the variable flux roller is reduced. This state will be explained using FIG. 6. 1 in Figure 6 is
A state in which fluid is supplied to the nozzle and an over-twisted portion _C1 is formed is shown. Next, as shown at 2 in FIG. 6, the supply of fluid to the nozzle is stopped, and at the same time, the yarn supply speed is reduced, so that the yarn running at a high overfeed rate becomes slack.
It prevents the running yarn from being unable to run due to winding around the rollers, etc., and also prevents the running yarn from becoming extremely low in tension and maintains the tension at a predetermined level, thereby reducing the twisting of the over-untwisted portion in the untwisting zone. It is possible to extend beyond the twist change point and approach the untwisted portion. In this case, since twisting of the yarn has stopped, the predetermined tension must be sufficiently lower than the yarn tension during twisting, and thus the untwisted portion is heat-treated in a low tension state. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a strong twisted part that has a high twisting effect and is difficult to untwist. 3 in FIG. 6 is a diagram showing the subsequent formation of the untwisted portion _A1 . Also,
For this reason as well, the heat setting temperature is preferably set higher than the temperature set in the case of normal false twisting.
In this way, by making the untwisted part into a strong twisted part, and by bringing the twist of the over-untwisted part in the untwisting zone close to the untwisted part, the over-untwisted part and the following untwisted part can be Formation of a non-twisted portion _D1 between the untwisted portion and the untwisted portion can be prevented. In this way, since there is virtually no untwisted part and there is a high density of twists, the untwisted part A ₁
A yarn portion 1 in which the initial elastic modulus of the over-twisted portion C ₁ is 40 g/d or less is obtained. Next, the formation of the yarn portion 2 will be described.
If the speed of the variable speed roller is reduced simultaneously with the supply of fluid to the nozzle while the yarn is running at a predetermined high overfeed rate, the yarn will run at a lower overfeed rate and therefore the yarn will be lower in the untwisting zone. The string becomes taut without ballooning, and the untwisted part _A2 in the untwisted zone is untwisted in sequence from the vicinity of the nozzle to the delivery roller part due to the propagation of the twist. It is not possible to over-untwist the twisted part A ₂ all at once, and for this reason, the untwisted portion is only offset by the over-untwisting torque,
Non-twisted area between untwisted area A ₂ and subsequent over-twisted area C ₂
B ₂ is formed. The degree to which the speed of the variable speed roller is decreased should be limited to such an extent that the strong twisting effect of the overly twisted portion _C2 to be formed is not significantly diminished, and the amount of change should be within a range of several percent. After the nozzle fluid is supplied as described above, the fluid supply is then stopped, and at the same time as the fluid supply is stopped, the speed of the variable speed roller is increased to return to the original predetermined overfeed rate. At this time, the yarn has stopped twisting, so the tension decreases regardless of the increase in overfeed rate. However, by further reducing the yarn tension, the twist in the over-untwisted part in the untwisting zone is reduced. The untwisted portion D ₂ is prevented from substantially disappearing by exceeding the twisting transition point and reaching the edge of the untwisted portion. Incidentally, the increase in the overfeed rate returns to a predetermined overfeed rate, and the amount of change is only a few percent, and does not cause the yarn to become unable to run, such as wrapping around a roller. The yarn portion 1 and yarn portion 2 formed in this way operate at variable speeds with respect to the time for supplying fluid to the nozzle (referred to as ON time) and the time for stopping fluid supply to the nozzle (referred to as OFF time). Determined by increasing or decreasing the roller speed, its length is
These correspond to the ON time and OFF time, but the non-twisted parts B ₂ and D ₂ of the yarn section 2 are the processing conditions, namely the ON time, OFF time, and period (sum of ON time and OFF time).
It is determined by the ratio of ON time to OFF time, yarn speed, length of twisting zone, length of untwisting zone, etc., and the ratio of ON time to OFF time is small within the range where the steady state of false twisting does not appear. Indeed, the shorter the period or the higher the yarn speed, the longer the lengths of the non-twisted portions B ₂ and D ₂ become. Non-twisted part B ₂ ,
Although there are still many points that are unclear regarding the relationship between the length of D ₂ and the above processing conditions, regarding the untwisted part B ₂ , it is possible to untwist the untwisted part of the untwisted zone according to the twist propagation speed without over-twisting the untwisted part at once. The length of the untwisted part _B2 is related to the untwisting zone, yarn speed, and heat setting temperature, and the length of the untwisted part _D2 is related to the untwisting zone, yarn speed, and heat setting temperature.
The twist state during twisting changes depending on the ON time, OFF time, cycle, and the ratio of ON time to OFF time. It is thought that the ease of uniformly untwisting changes, and as a result, the distance at which the overly untwisted portion and the untwisted portion cancel each other changes. As mentioned above, the length of the yarn portion 2 and the length of the non-twisted portions B ₂ and D ₂ are related to the processing conditions, so for example, a random pulse generator may be used to supply and stop the fluid using a fluid supply valve. As a result, the yarn portions 2 and non-twisted portions B ₂ and D ₂ can be formed at appropriate intervals and with appropriate lengths. In this way, the yarn portion 1 with a high twisting effect, which is substantially free of non-twisted portions, occupies most of the yarn, and the yarn portion 2 with non-twisted portions, which has a spun yarn-like uneven effect, is a yarn. Interspersed threads can be produced. The nozzle used for manufacturing the above-mentioned processed yarn of the present invention may be any nozzle as long as it has the function of twisting the yarn by turning the yarn at high speed, and is capable of directing the flow of fluid around the circumference of the cylindrical yarn passage. a combination of one or more fluid conduits positioned in a directional manner;
Any type of material may be used as long as it is provided at a position substantially oriented in the cutting line direction with respect to the inner periphery of the yarn path. Alternatively, the fluid conduit may lie in a plane substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the thread passage, or may be otherwise, but inclined from the perpendicular plane so as to impart an advancing action to the thread. is preferred. In addition, in the false twisting process using a nozzle, the processed yarn of the present invention uses a passive yarn feeding device (hereinafter referred to as a feeder) that rotates by the running tension of the yarn as a yarn feeding device, so that the non-twisted portion is substantially removed. The yarn portion 1 that does not have a specific characteristic is formed by changing the feeder load to a light load at the same time as fluid is supplied to the nozzle, and changing the feeder load to a high load at the same time as the fluid supply to the nozzle is stopped. , and non-twisted part B ₂ ,
The yarn portion 2 having D ₂ is formed by applying a high load when the fluid is supplied to the nozzle or a low load when the fluid is stopped, contrary to the formation of the yarn portion 1. In order for the effect of twisting to significantly affect the texture, the average number of twists in the untwisted portions and overtwisted portions of the processed yarn of the present invention must be 8000/√(D: yarn fineness) or more. It is necessary that Yarn part 1
The proportion of the non-twisted portion B ₂ of the yarn portion 2 to the yarn is
Although it depends on the length of _D2 , it is preferably 50% or more, particularly preferably 70 to 80%. Note that the average number of twists referred to herein is the number of twists distributed in each twisted portion, measured using a twister or a microscope, averaged, and converted into the number of twists per 1 m. The thermoplastic synthetic fibers in the processed yarn of the present invention include synthetic fibers obtained from polymers such as polyester and polyamide, and copolymers and blend polymers thereof. As described above, since the processed yarn of the present invention has the above-described structure, it exhibits the following unique effects. That is, since the processed yarn of the present invention adopts the above-mentioned structure, the yarn portion has an untwisted part and an overly untwisted part with a high twist density on the order of meters and a length of several centimeters.
There is a yarn portion 2 with a non-twisted portion of ~10-odd centimeters,
The non-twisted parts are irregularly spaced and have irregular lengths, so when made into a woven or knitted fabric, a spun yarn-like uneven surface effect can be obtained, and the strong twist creates a high degree of smoothness and an excellent design. It can be effective. The processed yarn of the present invention has an essential requirement that both the length of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part be long, including lengths on the order of meters. In other words, when tensile stress or bending stress is applied to an untwisted part or an over-twisted part, this stress becomes a shear stress along the strands, causing slippage between the strands, and as a result, the fabric has poor drapability and weight. A feeling is given. However, when the length of the untwisted part and the over-twisted part is on the order of several millimeters to several centimeters at the longest, the number of twist direction changing parts increases to 10 or more per 1 m. If there is a large amount of strands, tensile stress and bending stress are not converted into shear stress that causes the strands to slip, making it impossible to impart drapability and weight to the fabric. In order to impart drapability and weight to the fabric, these twisted portions must have lengths on the order of meters. As mentioned above, the processed yarn of the present invention is obtained by adopting a manufacturing technology that is completely different from the conventional technology, and the processing principle for obtaining the processed yarn of the present invention is the twisting and untwisting of false twisting. This is an application of the transient phenomenon that occurs when the twists cancel each other out. In order to vary the speed of the yarn supplied to the twisting area in synchronization with the intermittent false twisting operation, the untwisted part and the overtwisted part have a unique twist number distribution, resulting in a highly twisted yarn texture. 8000/√ enough to get
A high twist number of D (T/M) or more remains in the yarn, and the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part is
40g/d or less. In addition, in the processed yarn of the present invention, there is substantially no untwisted part in the twist direction changing part other than the untwisted part of the yarn portion 2, and due to the high twist density of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part. Since the fibers are narrowed and bundled, the apparent thickness of the fabric is thinner, giving it a sense of weight. Furthermore, since the yarn portion 1 of the processed yarn of the present invention has a low initial elastic modulus of 40 g/d or less in the untwisted portion and the excessively untwisted portion, it is difficult to impart drapability to the obtained woven or knitted fabric. can. In addition, this low initial elastic modulus, together with the fact that the twisted portion has a high twist density of 8000/√(T/M) or more, provides a fabric with good flexibility and elasticity. be able to. Furthermore, due to strong twisting, the yarns in the woven or knitted fabric do not become flat, and the contact area at the intersecting points of the yarns in the woven or knitted fabric becomes small, which makes it easy for the threads to slip at the intersecting points, improving drapability. By using the processed yarn of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric with a strong twist effect similar to a strong twist yarn and a spun yarn-like uneven effect on the surface of the fabric, which could not be obtained with conventional alternately twisted yarn. A knitted fabric can be obtained. Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples. Example 1 Polyester filament 150d/72f (circular cross-sectional shape, semi-dull yarn, initial elastic modulus 96 g/d) was supplied to a processing process consisting of a variable speed supply roller, a heater, a nozzle, and a delivery roller, and the above-mentioned process was carried out. Processing was carried out under the following processing conditions to obtain alternately twisted yarns as shown in Table 1.

[Table] The microcomputer is programmed in advance so that yarn portion 1 and yarn portion 2 have irregular appearance, frequency, and time, and the ratio of yarn portion 1 is 75%.
I made it so that Type of fluid Room temperature air Fluid pressure 5Kg/cm ^2Heater temperature 190℃ Take-up roller speed 78m/min

[Table] The untwisted part of the obtained processed yarn is maximum 16 cm and minimum 3 cm.
It exists irregularly with various lengths, and the non-twisted part
_B1 existed only as a twist direction change point, and no substantial length was observed. This processed yarn has a warp density of 90
Weaving was carried out using two wefts alternately at a weft density of 58 wefts/inch, and this fabric was subjected to normal polyester alkali weight loss processing (19% weight loss), dyed, finished, and processed. A fabric with an excellent texture, which exhibits a spun yarn-like surface mottled form intersecting the warp and warp, and has a delicate silky feel similar to that of highly twisted yarn, drapability, weight, and elasticity was obtained.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of an example of the processed yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is an untwisted portion A ₁ of the thread portion 1 of the processed yarn of the present invention,
It is a graph showing the relationship between the initial stress and elongation of the over-twisted part _C1 and the supplied yarn. Also, Figures 3 and 4
The figure is an explanatory diagram of the formation of non-twisted portions B ₂ and D ₂ when the yarn feeding speed is not variable. FIG. 3 is an explanatory diagram for manufacturing a yarn portion 1 in which no . A ₁ : Untwisted part of yarn section 1, B ₁ : Yarn section 1
C ₁ : Over-untwisted part of yarn section 1, D ₁ : Untwisted part from over-untwisted part of yarn section 1 A ₂ : untwisted part of the yarn part 2,
B ₂ : Non-twisted part at the part where the twist direction changes from the untwisted part to the over-untwisted part of the yarn part 2, C ₂ : The over-untwisted part of the yarn part 2, D ₂ : The untwisted part of the yarn part 2 A non-twisted part in a twisting direction change part from an untwisted part to an untwisted part.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Alternately forming untwisted portions with a length including the meter order with twist in the false twisting direction and overly untwisted portions with the length including the meter order with twist in the false twisting/untwisting direction. The filament yarn has been tightened,
The filaments of these twisted parts have a twist number distribution in the longitudinal direction without being fused together, and the average number of twists is
8000/√(T/M) or more, and the untwisted part is substantially present in the part where the twisting direction changes from the untwisted part to the overtwisted part and the part where the twisting direction changes from the overtwisted part to the untwisted part. A yarn in which a non-twisted portion exists in a yarn portion 1 that does not exist in the yarn portion 1, a twisting direction change portion from an untwisted portion to an overly untwisted portion, and a twisting direction change portion from an overly untwisted portion to an untwisted portion, respectively. Row part 2
are present at irregular intervals and at irregular lengths, and the untwisted portions and excessively untwisted portions of the yarn portion 1 have an initial elastic modulus of 40 g/d or less. Specially processed yarn that resembles highly twisted yarn.