JPH03152236A - Woven fabric for clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a woven fabric for clothes, composed of a polyester synthetic fiber, exhibiting excellent moisture-absorbing and releasing characteristics characterized by specific moisture absorption, moisture release, crimp percentage, etc., and having excellent feeling and stretchability. CONSTITUTION:The objective woven fabric has a moisture absorption of 0.5-4.0% measured 15min after transferring from an atmosphere of 20% and 65%RH to 30 deg.C and 90%RH, a moisture release of 0.7-4.5% measured 15min after transferring from an atmosphere of 30 deg.C and 90%RH to 20 deg.C and 65%RH, a crimp percentage of 0.8X10<-2> to 3.3X10<-2> for warp and weft and a thickness (Tmm) and a weight (Wg/m<2>) satisfying the formula. The fabric can be produced by pretreating e.g. a polyester synthetic fiber or a woven fabric of said fiber with an organic peroxide such as benzoyl peroxide and heating the pretreated product in an aqueous solution of a hydrophilic monomer such as acrylic acid to effect the graft-polymerization of said monomer.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a clothing fabric made of a comfortable polyester-based synthetic fiber that has both good moisture absorption and moisture release properties.

[Prior Art] Conventionally, attempts have been made to provide comfort by adding moisture absorption and desorption performance to synthetic fibers, for example, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-22.
It is disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 7872.

This is an attempt to improve moisture absorption and desorption performance by introducing carboxyl groups, sulfone groups, and amide groups into the fibers of a polyamide fabric through graft polymerization.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] However, in the case of the above technology, although moisture absorption and desorption performance can be imparted, the texture of the obtained fabric is stiff and
There were problems such as a rough and hard feeling and insufficient stretchability.

The present invention aims to solve such problems,
The purpose is to provide textiles for clothing that are excellent in both functionality and texture.

[Means for Solving the Problems] In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has the following configuration. In other words, it is a clothing fabric made of polyester synthetic fiber,
Moisture absorption rate (hereinafter referred to as A value) after 15 minutes when changing from 20℃, 65%RH to 30℃, 90%RH (hereinafter referred to as A value) is 0.5%
4.0% or less, 30℃, 90%RH1 to 20
℃, 65% RH+, the moisture release rate (hereinafter referred to as B value) after 15 minutes is 0.7% or more and 4.5% or less, and the weave crimp rate/{fineness 1/2 x density) is vertical. Both thread and weft are 0
．． 8X In-2~3JXlO-2, thickness T (m
This is a clothing fabric characterized in that m) and basis weight W (g/rr?) satisfy the following formula (1).

200T+30<W<200T+130
(1) Here, the unit of weave crimp rate is %, the unit of fineness is denier (hereinafter referred to as d), and the unit of density is wood/in.

Moreover, the above A value and B value refer to values measured as follows.

Approximately 1 g of fabric sample was placed in a glass weighing bottle and placed in an open dryer (baking machine) set at 110°C for 2 hours.
After drying for an hour, the weighing bottle is sealed and allowed to cool in a silica gel desiccator for 30 minutes, and then the weight (starting weight) is accurately measured. Next, 20℃, 65%
The open weighing bottle containing the sample was placed in a constant temperature and humidity chamber maintained at a temperature and humidity of RH1 and left for 24 hours, and then the weighing bottle was sealed again and left in a silica gel resodicator for 30 minutes. , measure weight accurately. Subsequently, the open weighing bottle is placed in a constant temperature and humidity chamber maintained at a temperature and humidity condition of 30° C. and 90% RH+, and the weight after 15 minutes of moisture absorption (weight after 15 minutes) is measured.

From these data, the A value is determined by the following formula.

Note that in order to draw the line diagram of U shown in Figure 1,
When placed under temperature and humidity conditions of ℃, 90% RH1,
The weight of the moisture absorbed after 5 minutes, 110 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 60 minutes, and 24 hours may be measured.

Furthermore, the weight after 24 hours mentioned above (weight after 24 hours!&)
After measuring, place the weighing bottle in an open state in a constant temperature and humidity chamber maintained at a temperature and humidity condition of 20°C and 65% RH+, and measure the weight after 15 minutes of moisture release (weight after 15 minutes). do. From these data, the B value is determined by the following formula.

In addition, to draw the diagram of D shown in Figure 1, continue to use 20
When placed under temperature and humidity conditions of 65% RH+, the weight of the product after moisture release may be measured after 5 minutes, 110 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, 60 minutes, and 24 hours.

Hereinafter, the clothing fabric of the present invention will be explained based on the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a diagram illustrating an example of the moisture absorption and desorption characteristics of the highly comfortable clothing fabric of the present invention. Curve U shows the equilibrium state when the material is placed at 20° C. and 65% RH+. The graph shows the state of moisture absorption from the time when the sample was placed under conditions of 30° C. and 90% RH1 until reaching an equilibrium state, with the horizontal axis showing the elapsed time and the vertical axis showing the moisture absorption rate.

The A value shown in FIG. 1 means the moisture absorption rate after 15 minutes, and is a value that is a parameter of moisture absorption characteristics. In addition, the curve shows the state of moisture release from an equilibrium state at 30°C and 90% RH1 to an equilibrium state when placed at 20°C and 65% RH+ condition. The B value shown in the figure means the moisture release rate after 15 minutes, and is a value that is a parameter of moisture release characteristics.

For comparison, Figure 2 is a diagram illustrating the moisture absorption and desorption characteristics of a conventional knitted fabric made of 100% polyester synthetic fibers, and the curve U and curve are the same as the curves in Figure 1. (
, 20° C., 65% RH and 30° C., 190% R)I. In addition, in conventional knitted fabrics made of 100% polyester synthetic fibers, both the A value and the B value are at extremely low levels.

The clothing fabric of the present invention has an A value, which is an index of moisture absorption speed, of 0.5% or more and 4.0% or less, and more preferably 1.0% or more and 3.8% or less. .

If the A value is less than 0.5%, a feeling of stuffiness will be felt in the clothes, while if the A value is greater than 4.09f, the strength will be significantly reduced.

Further, the clothing fabric of the present invention has a B value, which is an index of moisture release speed, of 0.7% or more and 4.5% or less,
Further, it is preferably 128% or more and 4.0% or less. If the B value is less than 0.7%, clothes will feel sticky. On the other hand, when the B value is greater than 4.0%, the strength decreases significantly.

In addition, from the viewpoint that the moisture absorption and desorption capacity is greater, the humidity inside the clothes can be adjusted more quickly.
It is desirable that the area surrounded by the moisture absorption/desorption speed curve, that is, the hysteresis curve, be larger.

In order to bring the A value and the B value within the above range, for example, a hydrophilic monomer may be graft-polymerized onto a polyester synthetic fiber or a fabric made of the fiber.

Hydrophilic monomers include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,
Vinyl carboxylic acid compounds such as itaconic acid, maleic acid, and butenetricarboxylic acid; vinyl sulfonic acid compounds such as allylsulfonic acid, methacrylsulfonic acid, and styrene sulfonic acid; or amides such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, and N-methylolmethacrylamide. Vinyl monomers and the like are used.

Graft polymerization methods include pretreatment with an organic peroxide such as benzoyl peroxide, followed by heat treatment using an aqueous solution of the monomers mentioned above, or a method in which a polymerization initiator and monomers are combined. There are ways to process them simultaneously. In addition, methods for treating fibers with monomers include submerged heating method, pad seal heating method, spray seal heating method, coating seal heating method, and the like.

Furthermore, in order to obtain the clothing fabric of the present invention, a large amount of carboxyl groups, sulfonic acid groups, or amide groups are introduced into the fibers by graft polymerization or the like. This is effective, and for that purpose, it is desirable to use a polyester-based synthetic fiber material with high graft polymerization efficiency. In general terms, fibers copolymerized with polyethylene glycol compounds, polybutylene glycol compounds, isophthalic acid, 5-sulfo-isophthalic acid, adipic acid, etc. as second and third components are called graft polymerization. Adipic acid is preferred because it can improve efficiency, and adipic acid is particularly preferred because it can greatly improve graft polymerization efficiency without significantly reducing fiber physical properties.

In addition, silica gel, calcium carbonate or
A water-soluble compound such as alkyl sulfonic acid or alkylbenzene sulfonic acid is added in advance, and then the compound is removed by hot water treatment or alkali weight reduction treatment, giving many unevenness to the fiber surface and graft polymerization. A method of making it easier to carry out graft polymerization is also preferably adopted, and a method of making it easier to carry out graft polymerization by changing the cross-sectional shape of the fiber using the same means is also preferable.

These means, in other words, the means of increasing the surface area of the fibers, are preferable in that they facilitate the modification by graft polymerization as described above and also increase the speed of moisture absorption and moisture release.

However, in general, when synthetic fibers or fabrics made of synthetic fibers are subjected to graft polymerization, they become stiffer and have a significantly rougher feel than when graft polymerization is not performed. This is because the graft polymerization increases the fineness and reduces the degree of freedom in yarn weight.

Therefore, in the clothing fabric of the present invention, the weave crimp rate/{fineness x density) is set to 0.8X for both warp and weft yarns.
10-2 to 3.3XIO-2.

Here, the weaving crimp rate means the ratio of the length (am) of the part of the weaving yarn, which was IQ cm in the woven state, to 10 cm when it is stretched under a load of O, 1 g/denier, (Fineness/Density) means a stretch inhibition factor, that is, an index representing the degree of clogging of the fabric.

Woven crimp rate/{fineness 1/2 x density) is 0.8X 10
-', there is a problem of lack of stretchability; on the other hand, if the weave crimp rate/{fineness 1/2 x density) is 3
．． If it exceeds 3 x 10-'', there is a problem in that the stretchability becomes excessive and its uses are limited.

As a means of lowering the density, the tenting rate is set higher than the usual 2 to 3% during the final finishing set, for example, 10%.
As a measure, it may be possible to process the fabric to widen its width, but simply taking such measures would result in the weave crimp rate becoming too small, and the weave crimp rate /
It cannot be within the range of {fineness 1/2 x density).

In other words, the use of yarn and the weaving design are important, and the object of the present invention cannot be achieved simply by changing the finishing process conditions.

Further, in the clothing fabric of the present invention, the thickness T (mm
) and the basis weight W (g/rr?) satisfy the following formula (1).

20[IT+30<W<200T+I30
(I) Here, the thickness T is a value (mm) measured under a load of 50 g/cJ.

If the fabric weight W is less than (200T + 30), there is a problem that it lacks stretchability and has a hard texture.On the other hand, if the fabric weight W is more than (200T + 130), it feels heavy in the hand, and furthermore, it may not feel comfortable on the body. There is a problem.

FIG. 3 shows the relationship between the basis weight and thickness of the clothing fabric obtained in this way, where the horizontal axis represents the thickness and the vertical axis represents the basis weight.

As described above, as the fineness increases due to graft polymerization, the degree of freedom in yarn weight decreases, resulting in an increase in roughness and hardness.

[Examples] Hereinafter, specific configurations and effects of the present invention will be explained using examples.

(Example 1) The warp and weft yarns were made of ordinary polyester synthetic fibers made by twisting three false-twisted yarns with a fineness of 75 d and 36 filaments, and the warp and weft weaving densities were 59 filaments each. /in.

The obtained greige was scoured with an aqueous solution containing soda ash and a surfactant, dried, and then immersed in a pad liquid having the composition shown below, with a mangle pressure of 2 kg/co? squeeze, roll up into a roll,
It was sealed with a polypropylene film, irradiated with microwaves in a 100°C saturated steam environment, and heat-treated for 60 minutes.

Bad liquid composition> Methacrylic acid 35% benzoyl peroxide 2% octyl viridinium chloride 20% water
43% As a result of this treatment, the polyester synthetic fiber has a carboxyl group of 2. +5X 10
-” g equivalent/g introduced.

After normal soaping and drying, the fabric was heated at 180°C.
An intermediate setting was performed for 30 seconds, and then dyeing was carried out using a disperse dye in the usual manner at 130° C. for 60 minutes. Then, the liquid ratio was 1.20 with 8 g/l aqueous solution of sodium carbonate.
Heat treatment was performed at 60° C. for 30 minutes under the following conditions to perform sodium substitution treatment at the carboxyl group terminals.

Then, after washing with hot water, water, and drying, the temperature was 170°C.

A finishing set was applied for 30 seconds (Example 1).

Kono Textile 20℃, 65%RH+ to 30℃, 9 (
Moisture absorption rate after 150 minutes (A value) when changed to 1% HI
was 3.04%, and the moisture release rate (B value) after 15 minutes when changing from 30° C., 90% RH1 to 20° C., 65% RH+ was 3.48%.

In addition, the thickness of this fabric is 0.6 mm, and the basis weight is 226 g/
rri, satisfying formula (1). Furthermore, the weave crimp rate of the warp yarn is 20.6%, and the (fineness final x density) of the weft yarn is 1020. The weave crimp rate of the weft yarn is 27.6%, and the (fineness % x density) of the warp yarn is 1050, so the weave crimp rate/{fineness 1/2 x density) is 0 for both warp and weft yarns.
．． It was within the range of 8X 10-2 to 3.3X 10-2.

Table 1 shows the string properties of this fabric.

(Hereinafter, blank space) (Comparative Examples 1 to 3) Next, as a comparison, the same gray fabric as in Example 1 was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 without graft polymerization modification (Comparative Examples 1 to 3) Example 1).

The various properties of this fabric are listed in Table 1.

Furthermore, for comparison, a polyester synthetic fiber similar to that of this example was used, which had a vertical and horizontal density of about 10% compared to that of this example 1.
% increased and 65 strands/in of the conventional design fabric was woven.

This gray fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 (Comparative Example 2).

Various properties of this fabric are shown in Table 1.

Next, the same gray fabric as in Example 1 was grafted under the conditions of this Example, only the amount of methacrylic acid used was increased to 55%,
The rest was processed under the same conditions as in this example (Comparative Example 3)
.

The properties of this woven fabric are as listed in Table 1, but the thread strength was weak (so much so that it could be torn by hand), making it impractical.

(Example 2) A processed yarn made of ordinary polyester synthetic fiber with a fineness of 225 ds and a filament count of 96 was woven into a pine weave structure with a warp and weft density of 53 filaments/in and 52 filaments/in, respectively. . This fabric has a density approximately 15% lower than the density design of Comparative Example 2.

This fabric was subjected to graft polymerization modification and dyeing finishing under the same conditions as in Example 1 (Example 2).

From 20℃, 65%ltH to 30℃, 90%R of this fabric.
The moisture absorption rate (A value) after 15 minutes when changed to H1 is 2
゜58%, and from 30℃, 90%RH+ to 20℃
, moisture release rate after 15 minutes when changing to 65%RH (B
value) was 3.26%.

In addition, the thickness of this fabric is 0.55 mm, and the basis weight is 222 g.
/a, and satisfied formula (I). Furthermore, the weaving crimp rate of the warp yarn is 11.4%, and that of the weft yarn (fineness final x density)
is 1258, weft crimp rate is 13.2N, warp yarn (fineness 1/2 x density) is 1319, warp yarn weave crimp rate/{fineness/×density) is 0.9XIO-2 weft. The weaving crimp rate of the yarn/{fineness 1/2 x density) is 1. OX
1, O-2. Various properties of this fabric are also listed in Table 1.

(Comparative Examples 4 and 5) Next, for comparison, the vertical and horizontal density is 62 vertical lines/in.

The same fabric as in Example 2 was woven except that the width was 61 pieces/in.

When such a fabric was processed under the same conditions as in Example 2 without graft polymerization modification, a fabric with a good texture with a good balance between stretchability and hand feel was obtained. Moisture absorption rate (A value) after 15 minutes when changing from RH + to 30 ° C 90% RH + and 3
The moisture release rate (B value) after 15 minutes when changing from 0 ° C. and 90% RH to 20 ° C. and 65% RH+ is 0.4.
% or less, resulting in a fabric with a large feeling of stuffiness and poor comfort (Comparative Example 4).

Various properties of this fabric are also shown in Table 1.

Next, the same gray fabric as in Comparative Example 4 was subjected to graft polymerization modification and dyeing finishing under the same conditions as in Example 2 (
Comparative Example 5).

Various properties of this fabric are also shown in Table 1. Although the fabric had excellent moisture absorption and release properties, it had poor stretchability and a strong rough and stiff feel that made it uncomfortable to wear.

(Example 3) A butcher structure was woven in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1, except that the fineness was 56 d and three temporarily twisted yarns with 36 filaments were used for the warp and weft yarns.

When such a fabric was subjected to graft polymerization modification and dyeing finishing under the same conditions as in Example 1, it was found to have extremely stretchy properties, a good feel in the hand, and excellent wearing comfort with moisture absorption and desorption performance. A fabric was obtained (Example 3).

Various performances of this fabric are also shown in Table 1.

[Effects of the Invention] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a clothing fabric that has moisture absorption performance and is excellent in feel.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a diagram illustrating an example of the moisture absorption and release characteristics of the clothing fabric of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a diagram illustrating the moisture absorption and release characteristics of a conventional fabric made of 100% polyester synthetic fibers for comparison. FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the relationship between the basis weight and thickness of the clothing fabric of the present invention.

Claims (1)

[Claims] A clothing fabric made of polyester synthetic fibers,
Moisture absorption rate after 15 minutes when changing from 20℃, 65%RH to 30℃, 90%RH is 0.5% or more and 4.0% or less, from 30℃, 90%RH to 20℃, 65%RH The moisture release rate after 15 minutes when changed to is 0.7% or more and 4.5% or less, and the weave crimp rate/{fineness ^1^/^2 x density} is 0.8 for both warp and weft yarns. ×10^-^2~3.3×10
^-^2, thickness T (mm) and basis weight W (g/m^2
) satisfies the following formula (I). 200T+30<W<200T+130(I)