JPH03152203A - Stretchable bonding interlining cloth and production thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject bonding interlining cloth excellent in heat resistance in bonding and sewing, follow-up properties to dimensional change in a right side fabric of clothes and shape retaining properties of the clothes by applying a thermoplastic resin to one surface of a stretchable cloth in which crimpable yarn is crimped. CONSTITUTION:The objective bonding interlining cloth, obtained by weaving crimpable yarn (e.g. conjugate fiber yarn prepared by mixing two kinds of polyethylene terephthalate components at >=25% ratio in warp yarns and >=25% ratio in weft yarns) crimpable by heat treatment in all or part of the warp yarns and/or weft yarns and applying a thermoplastic resin to one surface of the aforementioned stretchable cloth and capable of accurately providing various stretchable bonding interlining cloths different in follow-up properties, lightness and softness at need.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a stretchable adhesive interlining that is soft and lightweight and has excellent conformability to the outer surface of clothing and shape retention of clothing. .

(Prior art) Interlining is an essential component of clothing, but in order to streamline and improve the efficiency of clothing sewing operations, interlining is made by attaching thermoplastic resin to the surface of the base fabric. , so-called adhesive interlinings are commonly used. Adhesive interlining can be bonded to the outer material simply by layering it with the outer material of the garment and applying heat breath, eliminating the need to sew the interlining to the outer material, which is considered extremely difficult in the garment sewing process. At the same time, we realized a wide-sewn, smooth door 7.

However, when this adhesive interlining is bonded to the outer material to form a joined body, there is a large difference in size between the outer material and the outer material due to dimensional changes due to the effects of heat, water, etc., resulting in curling of the joined body. As a result, "wrinkles" occur in the clothes, and the bonding points with the outer material peel off, causing "bulges" in the clothes, which often causes the clothes to lose their commercial value.

Therefore, when washing clothes with water or dry cleaning them, it is extremely complicated to manage the clothes, such as checking the shrinkage caused by heat, water, etc. through preliminary tests.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, a stretchable adhesive interlining that can closely follow the dimensional changes of the outer fabric has been proposed in the bonded body with the outer fabric.

For example, JP-A No. 60-45636 proposes an adhesive interlining whose base fabric is a fabric woven using a covered elastic yarn in which an elastic yarn such as polyurethane is covered with a non-elastic yarn such as cotton. ing.

Also, in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97937, )l! ! An adhesive interlining whose base fabric is a woven fabric containing curled yarn has been proposed. Furthermore, in JP-A No. 63-235509,
An adhesive interlining whose base fabric is a laminate of a polyurethane elastic fiber nonwoven fabric and a knitted fabric has been proposed. However, these f! All of the proposed methods have drawbacks in the manufacturing process or their suitability as interlining materials, and are not fully satisfactory.

That is, in the first two methods, the fabric is woven using stretchable threads, but the stretchable threads are not easy to handle and the weaving process is difficult.

Therefore, for example, it is difficult to weave various fabrics with different S designs, and it is extremely difficult to provide a base fabric that can meet the needs of various adhesive interlinings with different physical properties. In addition, even if weaving is carried out by force, a large amount of investment is required for equipment, the weaving efficiency is poor, and uniform weaving is difficult.

Furthermore, when using fabrics like the first two as the base fabric, it is difficult to set the desired EMT value according to the KES method during the processing process as an adhesive interlining, and it is difficult to set the EMT value as an adhesive interlining. Some of them are excessive, some are insufficient, and problems remain in terms of ability to follow dimensional changes in the outer material and shape retention of clothing.

On the other hand, in the latter case, the process of laminating the nonwoven fabric and the knitted fabric is complicated, and the elasticity of the obtained adhesive interlining is limited, and depending on the degree of stretching, there is a risk that the nonwoven fabric may burst.

Furthermore, since the material is made of non-woven fabric, the shear resistance value (G([) according to the KES method) becomes large, and clothing using this as an interlining has poor wearability.

(Problem R to be solved by the invention) The present invention is a lightweight and soft elastic adhesive interlining that has excellent ability to follow dimensional changes of the outer material when it is joined to the outer material. tXB's mission is to accurately provide a variety of elastic adhesive interlinings with different conformability, lightness, and softness according to demand.

(1! Means to solve the problem) The present invention has +4 in heat treatment! I do 14! A woven fabric is woven using a crimped yarn or a coated 14 crimped yarn obtained by covering a crimped yarn that shrinks 18 times with cotton fiber in a non-+1 crimped state, and then heat-treated the woven fabric to make the winding process. Retractable yarn or covering 14! An excellent stretchable adhesive interlining is provided by using a stretchable fabric made by crimping stretchable yarn as a base fabric and attaching a thermoplastic resin to the base fabric.

That is, in the present invention, a crimpable yarn that is crimped by heat treatment is used as a weaving yarn of a textile in an uncrimped state, and a non-stretchable textile is first obtained. This woven fabric is then heat treated to form a woven fabric W! 14 for shrinkable yarn! A stretchable adhesive interlining is completed by expressing i to form a stretchable fabric, using this stretchable fabric as a base fabric, and attaching a thermoplastic resin to this by an appropriate method.

The form of attachment of the thermoplastic resin to the base fabric can be designed as appropriate, but it is usually attached in the form of dots or double dots of a certain size.Generally, the thermoplastic resin is ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer. , polyamide, polyester, polyethylene, etc. are used.

In addition, the adhesion amount is preferably 8 to 25 leg/leg (especially preferably 12 to 25 leg/leg/leg) without impairing the properties of the base fabric.
m”.

As mentioned above, the base fabric of the elastic adhesive interlining of the present invention is made of a woven fabric and then heat-treated to give it elasticity. By setting the degree of shrinkage, the warp of the fabric, the proportion of crimpable yarn in the weft, and the heat treatment conditions, you can freely control the stretch rate of the resulting stretchable fabric or the L'T value using the KES method. Together with Hiraori, 1! [We are free to provide various types of fabrics such as woven fabrics, and we can also provide coarse elastic woven fabrics, thin elastic woven fabrics, or bidirectional elastic woven fabrics that are stretchable both vertically and horizontally. It is possible.

As described above, the present invention uses, as the crimpable yarn, a crimpable yarn that undergoes MHil through heat treatment, thereby increasing the ability to impart stretchability after weaving. Examples of the +m-property yarn produced by this heating include, for example, conjugate fiber yarn containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component;
Congee game whose main ingredient is acrylonitrile) uk1
Among them, a particularly preferred one is a conjugate fiber yarn containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component. Conjegate fiber yarn is a composite yarn (conjegate fiber) formed by joining two types of polymers in a bimetallic manner, and is made up of a collection of single fibers. This is due to the amount of 1lIll of the two components to be formed or the bonding ratio.

The 1 m shape of this conjugate fiber yarn is a three-dimensional spiral (coil), which is developed by heat treatment. The number of contractions and the coil warp can be changed by changing the structure of the composite yarn or by changing the fineness of each composite yarn when gathering the composite yarns.

By the way, III number 10-30 threads 7cm, coil diameter 5
Those with x 1o-2 to 20x 10-''- are preferred.

Therefore, when using a fabric woven using IMIi yarn as a base fabric, the various physical properties required for the stretchable adhesive interlining can be achieved by designing various crimp degrees of the woven yarn. It is something that will be realized.

Examples of composite yarns made by joining two types of polymers in a bimetallic manner include those made by composite spinning of a polyethylene terephthalate component and a cationic dyeable type polyethylene terephthalate component, or two types of polyethylene terephthalate having a viscosity difference. There are products made by composite spinning of components.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned conjugate) ml yarn or other crimpable yarn that is crimped by heat treatment is used alone, and
! It is sometimes possible to coat the yarn with a crimpable group and use it as a crimpable group. This coating improves the dyeability and feel of the fabric.

In this case, commonly used fibers include cotton, rayon, polynosic, wool, and polyester.

In addition, when weaving, the crimpable group is used as warp and/or weft +001, or it may be mixed with other yarns, but in this case H! The m-type filamentous base must be 61 or more, regardless of whether it is warp or weft. 2
If it is less than 5z, stretchability sufficient to achieve the purpose of the present invention cannot be obtained.

Note that the heat treatment referred to in the present invention includes a method of passing through a heating zone, a method of 4IP, a method of immersing in water, etc., and the method is not particularly specified.

In the heat treatment of the fabric in the present invention, as mentioned above, depending on the setting of the processing conditions, the EMT value by the KES method and the LTll by the KES method of the resulting stretchable fabric can be set variously according to the requirements. , the EMT value according to the KES method is set to 6 to 50% in either the warp or latitude direction or both directions, and the L of the KES method is
Eel is also preferred as the elastic adhesive interlining base fabric when the T value is set to 0.7 or less.

The KES method is a texture measurement system developed by the Textile Mechanical Society of Japan's Total Weight and Standardization Committee, and the LT value is calculated from the load-elongation curve measured in a tensile test.
It represents the nonlinearity of tensile properties, and the EMT value is 500 g.
/ cs represents the elongation rate under a load.

(Function and Effect) In stretchable adhesive interlining, a stretchable fabric is usually used as the base fabric, and the physical properties of this base fabric determine the performance and quality of the stretchable adhesive interlining in i19. be.

This base fabric is usually woven with stretchable threads, but stretchable threads are difficult to remove during the weaving process, and it is difficult to obtain the required stretch rate during the weaving process. It is extremely difficult to make the physical properties of 1@object appear accurately.

The stretchable base fabric used in the stretchable adhesive interlining of the present invention is woven and is given stretchability at a later stage. The expansion/contraction ratio of , the LT value of the KES method, etc. can be appropriately and accurately set.

Therefore, the present invention can provide stretchable adhesive interlining with various physical properties and can meet various demands for interlining for clothing.

As one of the base fabrics used in the stretchable adhesive interlining of the present invention, a stretchable fabric woven with conjegate fiber yarn is used. First, the conjegate fiber yarn is mainly made of polyethylene terephthalate. Therefore, the adhesive interlining using this fabric as a base fabric has excellent heat resistance during adhesive sewing.Secondly, the conjugate fiber thread can be formed into a three-dimensional helical shape by heat treatment. Since the crimped form is expressed, the required stretch rate can be freely and accurately applied, and the stretchable fabric can be made soft, light, and layered according to demand. Therefore, this l! Stretchable adhesive interlining made of l1va fabric as a base fabric has good ability to follow dimensional changes in the outer fabric of clothing, and also exhibits excellent effects in terms of shape retention of clothing.

(Example) A crimped yarn with a count of 40 and a diameter of 111 degrees and 30% [
50 denier conjugate yarn made of composite yarns made by composite spinning of two types of polyethylene terephthalate with different viscosity () II number 25 threads/cm coil diameter 15X
A plain woven fabric with a thickness of 0.24 mm was woven by arranging 50 threads/1 nch of 35 count cotton threads as wefts and arranging 40 threads/1 nch of 35 count cotton threads as wefts. Refining and bleaching treatment, dyeing, and soft finishing treatment were performed, and in the desizing and refining and bleaching treatment, !4! Crimp was developed in the stretchable yarn to obtain a stretchable plain woven fabric.

At this stage of imparting elasticity, the EMT value by the KES method is set to 5%, and the LT value by the KES method is set to 0.
It was set to 6 or less.

A polyamide-based thermoplastic resin was adhered in dots to one side of the stretchable plain woven fabric obtained in the above manner.

The dot density was 200 dots/1 nch2, and the amount of adhered dots was 171 cm2.

The resulting elastic adhesive interlining had a thickness of 0.32 cm and a weight of 7.
5g/cm, the stress when stretched 20% in the warp direction is 500g/cm, and the recovery rate after the same stretching is 35%, making it extremely lightweight, soft, and has excellent elasticity. Ta.

Next, this elastic adhesive interlining was bonded to a summer outer material made of 100% polyester and 100% wool, and a winter outer material made of 100% wool. Shape retention was extremely good.

Examples or Example 1. In place of the warp yarns, a 3-denier composite yarn made by composite spinning of a polyethylene terephthalate component and a cationic dyeable type polyethylene terephthalate component (
Crimp! Appears when subjected to 125% heat treatment)! Using 40 count conjugate fiber yarn made by collecting 10× coil warp 10× to” ■), if
A warp weave was obtained, and the others were interpolated with Example 1, elastic adhesive, T, L! ! I got it.

The obtained elastic adhesive interlining has a thickness of 0.3 and a weight of 10 g.
/m'', the stress when elongated by 15% in the warp direction is 500g/a++, the recovery rate after the same elongation is 40%,
It was extremely lightweight, soft, and had excellent elasticity.

Next, this elastic adhesive interlining is made of % polyester.
When bonded with a summer outer material made of 100% wool and a winter outer material made of 100% wool to form a bonded body, the ability to follow dimensional changes of the outer material and the shape retention of the garment were extremely good.

As the warp, Example 1. The 50 denier conjegate fiber yarn used in was used as the core yarn, and the 60 count 11 crimpable yarn made by covering it with cotton fiber was used as the core yarn, and the 40 count cotton yarn was used as the weft, and the number of threads was 68 × 28/1n
A stretchable interlining material was obtained using the hand-woven fabric of CH as a base fabric. The obtained elastic adhesive interlining has a thickness of 0.33 m and a weight of 67 g.
/m", and the stress when stretched by 15% in the warp direction was 500 g/em, and the recovery rate after the same stretching was 35%, and it was extremely lightweight, soft, and had excellent elasticity.

Next, this elastic adhesive interlining was bonded to a summer outer material made of polyester and 100% wool, and a winter outer material made of 100% wool to form a bonded body. The shape was extremely good.

Covering 1 of 60 count used in practice i+13 as Kazuo flooded warp
411 yarn, a 60 denier conjegate fiber yarn was used as the weft yarn, and a 50 count coated crimpable yarn made by covering this with cotton fiber was used as the core yarn, and the number of threads was 6.
Weaving was performed by arranging 8×32 pieces/inch to obtain a plain woven fabric. The second-hand woven fabric is subjected to desizing, bleaching, dyeing, and soft finishing treatments, and in the desizing and oval bleaching process, the conjegate fiber yarn develops camellia thinness, and this plain fabric is given elasticity, making it stretchable. A total of 141 items were obtained.

This stretchable plain woven fabric has an EMT value according to the KES method.
Longitudinal direction 20%, n direction r5120%7! Atsute, KF! ,
S method 4: Yoru LTlil! The fabric had a bidirectional stretch of 0.6 or less.

A polyamide-based thermoplastic resin was adhered in dots to one side of the bidirectionally stretchable fabric obtained as described above.

The dot density was 300 dots/1 nch', and the adhesion amount was 15 g/s'.

The resulting elastic adhesive interlining had a thickness of 0.36 m and a weight of 7.
2&/maro station, the stress when elongated by 15% in the longitudinal direction is 500g/cm, the recovery rate after the same elongation is 45%, and the stress when elongated by 16% in the latitudinal direction is 500g/cm, the same The recovery rate after elongation was 40%, and it was lightweight, soft, and had excellent elasticity in both warp and weft directions.

This elastic adhesive interlining is then coated with % polyester.
When bonded with a summer outer material made of 100% wool and a winter outer material made of 100% wool to form a bonded body, the ability to follow dimensional changes of the outer material and the shape retention of the garment were extremely good.

Furthermore, the shear hardness value and bending hardness value were also in a good range, and the effects of the stretchable adhesive interlining of the present invention are clear.

- Stop comparative example 68 number 60 cotton threads were arranged in 8 channels as warp threads,
A 0.25-thick plain fabric was woven by arranging 40 count cotton threads as wefts at a ratio of 32 threads/1 nch. This plain woven fabric was subjected to desizing, bleaching, dyeing, and soft finishing.

A polyamide-based thermoplastic resin was adhered in dots to one side of the above plain woven fabric. This dot density is 340/1n
ch', and the adhesion amount was 16 g/a''.

The obtained adhesive interlining had a thickness of 0.30 mm and a weight of 62 ge.
It was "m".

Next, this adhesive core t1 is made of polyester and wool.
% of a summer outer material and a winter outer material of 100% wool to form a bonded body, the followability to dimensional changes of the outer material was not satisfactory.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) All or part of the warp and/or weft,
A stretchable fabric, characterized in that it is woven using crimpable yarns that are crimped by heat treatment, and that a thermoplastic resin is attached to one side of the stretchable fabric obtained by crimping the crimpable yarns. Adhesive interlining. (2) Claim (1) using a stretchable fabric in which crimpable yarn is mixed in a ratio of 25% or more in warp and 25% or more in weft.
Stretchable adhesive interlining as described in section. (3) The elastic adhesive interlining according to claim (1) or (2), wherein the crimpable yarn is a conjegate fiber yarn. (4) The elastic adhesive interlining according to claim (3), wherein the crimpable yarn is a conjugate fiber yarn formed by composite spinning of two types of polyethylene terephthalate components having a viscosity difference. (5) Claim (1), wherein the EMT value according to the KES method in either longitudinal or latitudinal directions or both directions is 6 to 50%, and the LT value according to the ES method is 0.7 or less; Clause (2), Clause (3), Clause (4)
The elastic adhesive interlining described in any of the items. (6) Fabrics woven using crimpable yarns that are crimped by heat treatment in all or part of the warp and/or weft in an uncrimped state, are heat treated to crimp the crimpable yarns. 1. A method for producing a stretchable adhesive interlining, which comprises developing a stretchable fabric to form a stretchable fabric, and then adhering a thermoplastic resin to one side of the stretchable fabric. (7) Covered crimpable yarn, which is made by using a crimpable yarn that is crimped by heat treatment as a core yarn and covering it with non-crimpable fibers, is used as all or part of the warp and/or weft. 1. A stretchable adhesive interlining characterized in that a thermoplastic resin is attached to one side of a stretchable fabric that is woven and the covered crimpable yarn is crimped. (8) Claim No. (8) using a stretchable fabric in which covered crimpable yarn is mixed in a ratio of 25% or more in warp and 25% or more in weft.
7) Stretchable adhesive interlining described in section 7). (9) The elastic adhesive interlining according to claim (7) or (8), wherein the crimpable yarn is a conjegate fiber yarn. (10) The elastic adhesive interlining according to claim (9), wherein the crimpable yarn is a conjugate fiber yarn formed by composite spinning of two types of polyethylene terephthalate components having different viscosities. (11) The EMT value according to the KES method in either the longitudinal or latitude direction or both directions is 6 to 50%,
and the LT value according to the KES method is 0.7 or less, Claims (8), (9), (10), and (
11) The elastic adhesive interlining according to any of item (11). (12) A crimpable yarn that is crimped by heat treatment is used as a core yarn,
A woven fabric in which a covered crimped yarn obtained by covering this with non-crimped fibers is woven as all or a part of the warp and/or weft is heat-treated to develop crimp in the covered crimped yarn. 1. A method for producing a stretchable adhesive interlining, characterized in that the stretchable fabric is made into a stretchable fabric, and then a thermoplastic resin is attached to one side of the stretchable fabric.