JPH02145825A - Combined polyester filament yarn having shrinkage difference - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject combined filament yarn giving a woven or knit fabric having silky nature even in dyeability by forming a high-shrinkage yarn with a specific copolymerized polyester and combining the high-shrinkage yarn with a yarn having a specific cross-section. CONSTITUTION:The low-shrinkage yarn of the objective combined filament yarn is a conjugate yarn composed of two components A and B having different solubilities in a solvent, wherein the easily soluble component B occupies two or more parts on the outer circumference of the cross-section of the conjugate yarn. The high-shrinkage yarn is composed mainly of a copolymerized polyester containing isophthalic acid and 2,2-bis(4-(2-hydroxy-ethoxy)phenyl)propane in amounts to satisfy the formulas P(a)+1.5XP(b) >=8.0, P(a)+P(b) <=18.0 and 1.0<=P(b)<=4.8 wherein P(a) is molar fraction (%) of isophthalic acid to the total acid component in the copolymerized polyester and P(b) is molar fraction (%) of 2,2-bis(4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl)propane to the total glycol component in the above polyester.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention is a heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn comprising a specific copolymerized polyester as a high-shrinkage yarn and a yarn having a specific cross-sectional shape. The present invention relates to a polyester differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn which is suitable as a yarn constituting a silky high-quality woven or knitted fabric having a soft feel, drapability, luster, color development, and squeaky feeling, and excellent light fastness of dyes.

[Prior Art] It has been known that differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarns can provide silky R knitted fabrics that have good swelling, rough feel, drapability, luster, etc., and the manufacturing methods include a spinning mixed fiber method, Common methods include the blending method during drawing and the blending method of drawn yarn, but the spinning blending method is superior in terms of productivity. The spinning and blending method is a method in which two types of polyester, high-shrinkage polyester and low-shrinkage polyester, are spun using composite spinning equipment, and an undrawn polyester blend yarn is obtained in the spinning process, which is then stretched.

In this method, a method in which a copolymerized polyester is used as the high-shrinkage polyester and a polyester without a copolymerized component is used as the low-shrinkage polyester was published in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51.
This method is disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 49-72449, etc. These publications describe differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarns that do not exhibit much difference in yarn length when treated with saltwater, but develop differences in yarn length through dry heat treatment. It cannot be said that the fullness is sufficient, and it is impossible to provide a silky fabric that is satisfactory in terms of texture.

On the other hand, Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-35450 and Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 55-5
Publication No. 7013 describes polyethylene terephthalate as a low shrinkage polyester and 2 as a high shrinkage polyester.
・2bis(4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl)
There is a description of a shrinkage mixed fiber yarn using a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate containing propane (hereinafter referred to as BHPP) in an amount of 5 mol % to 15 mol % based on the glycol component, and a fabric made of this mixed fiber yarn.

According to these publications, the Fuji silk-like appearance and feel of the silky fabric obtained using this differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is due to the Fuji silk-like appearance and feel of the silky fabric obtained by using ordinary combinations other than these two types of polyester fiber groups (for example, isophthalic acid as a high shrinkage polyester). or when using polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with phthalic acid or diethylene glycol, etc.), the copolymerization ratio of high-shrinkage polyester, the shrinkage rate at yarn break, the difference in tide water shrinkage rate between high-shrinkage yarn and low-shrinkage yarn, and hot water It is stated that this cannot be obtained no matter how the conditions for the relaxation treatment are selected.

As described above, this differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn has the disadvantage that only a fabric with a special appearance and texture can be obtained that is only possible with this specified polymer. Moreover, BHPP, which is a copolymerization component, significantly deteriorates the light fastness of the copolymerization polyester compared to other copolymerization components (such as isophthalic acid) that can constitute a highly shrinkage copolyester, so it has poor dyeability. However, this fabric cannot be said to be of good quality.

In addition, JP-A-61-13009 discloses that there is a difference in boiling water shrinkage rate, and in a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn in which the low shrinkage yarn is polyethylene terephthalate and the high shrinkage yarn is copolymerized polyester, as a specific example of copolymerized polyester. An example in which 10 mol% of BHPP was copolymerized is described in detail, but as mentioned above, the drawback of low light fastness cannot be avoided.

On the other hand, in a composite yarn consisting of two types of components with different solubility, the easily soluble component is arranged in a specific shape near the yarn surface, and the easily soluble component is dissolved and removed after the yarn or fabric is formed. It has been found that yarns with irregular cross-sections can be obtained.

For example, the present inventors have disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 55-93819 that the easily soluble component is dissolved and removed from a composite yarn in which the easily soluble component is divided into a plurality of pieces by the slightly soluble component. It was proposed that cross-sectional threads can be obtained. However, although the yarn with an irregular cross section obtained by the technique within the range shown here can give a squeaky feeling, it tends to produce a glare and tend to have poor color development. The resulting woven or knitted fabric has the disadvantage that it does not have good hand properties such as fullness, softness, and drape properties that a silky high-grade woven or knitted fabric should have.

JP-A-56-53210@publication, JP-A-56-1125
It is disclosed in Publication No. 35 that a yarn with an irregular cross section can be obtained by removing easily soluble components placed at a specific position near the yarn surface, but the characteristics and drawbacks of the yarn with an irregular cross section obtained are as follows. is similar to the technique described above.

Furthermore, the present inventors have disclosed in JP-A-57-5912 and JP-A-57-5921 that by dissolving and removing easily soluble components placed near the apex of a multi-lobed cross-sectional shape, Although we have proposed a condition in which the surface has grooves and has a smooth and elegant luster, woven or knitted fabrics made of yarns with irregular cross-sections still have the disadvantage that they do not have good texture properties such as fullness.

To this end, the present inventors proposed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 61-55225 a heat-shrinkable differential blend yarn composed of yarns in which easily soluble components are arranged near the apex of a multilobal cross-sectional shape. did. However, the blended yarn shown here merely has differential heat shrinkage properties, and woven fabrics do not have sufficient texture properties such as fullness, and it is difficult to obtain silky woven or knitted fabrics that are satisfactory in terms of texture. I couldn't.

[Problem to be solved by the invention] Although market needs have diversified and woven and knitted fabrics have diversified as well, there are significant shortcomings in the basic characteristics of woven and knitted fabrics and the fibers that make up these fabrics. must not. However, the present situation is that a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn that has a good texture in the resulting woven or knitted fabric and is free from problems in terms of dyeability has not yet been developed.

The purpose of the present invention is to produce silky woven and knitted fabrics that are of high quality not only in terms of texture but also dyeability, that is, rich bulge,
It has a soft feel, drapability, luster, color development, and squeaky feel, and has excellent dye fastness to light, and is suitable as a yarn for making silky woven and knitted fabrics, without being biased toward a special appearance or texture. This invention provides a polyester shrinkage differential fiber yarn.

[Means for Solving the Problems] The above-mentioned object of the present invention is to have a fiber group consisting of at least two types of fibers having different heat shrinkage rates, a water conduction shrinkage rate of 30% or less, and a boiling point DFL of 5% or more and 25 or less. The low shrinkage yarn, which is a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn and is made of at least a group of fibers with the lowest water-conducting shrinkage rate, is composed of a composite yarn formed of two components having different solubility in solvents, and the easily soluble component is the composite yarn. occupies two or more locations on the outer periphery of the cross section of the fibers, and at least the group of fibers with the highest water conduction shrinkage contains isophthalic acid and 2-2bis(4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl)propane as copolymerization components. This can be achieved by using a differential shrinkage polyester mixed fiber yarn characterized by being composed of a high shrinkage yarn whose main component is a copolymerized polyester containing an amount that simultaneously satisfies formulas (1), (2), and (2).

P(a) +1.5 xp(b)≧8.0 ・−・−・
...-IP(a) +P(b)≦18.0...
...II1.0≦P(b)≦4.8...
・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・■ However, P (a
) is the molar fraction (%) of isophthalic acid based on the total acid components in the copolyester, and P(b) is 2.2bis(4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl) based on the total glycol component in the copolyester. It is the mole fraction (%) of propane. (
Hereinafter, P (a) and P (b) follow this example) The present invention will be described in detail below.

Shrinkage characteristics are an important characteristic in the yarn characteristics of the differentially shrinkage mixed fiber yarn in the present invention. The shrinkage characteristics herein refer to water conduction shrinkage rate (hereinafter referred to as BWS) and boiling point DFL (hereinafter referred to as DFL). Note that the methods for measuring these shrinkage characteristics will be described again.

In the present invention, in order to impart the targeted rich fullness and soft feel, the shrinkage characteristics of the differential shrinkage blend yarn must fall within a specific range.

In the present invention, in order to impart the target roughness of 1 to 1, the BWS of the shrinkage mixed fiber yarn must be 30% or less. If the BWS exceeds 30%, the obtained woven or knitted fabric will have too strong a rough feel and will have no commercial value. In addition, in order to make the soft feeling more advanced, the BWS is 2.
6% is preferred.

In the present invention, in order to provide the targeted rich fullness, the DEL of the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn needs to be 5% or more and 25% or less. If the DEL is less than 5%, the resulting woven or knitted fabric will be paper-like without sufficient stiffness, and if it exceeds 25%, the low shrinkage yarn will buckle on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. , it becomes difficult to make the surface appearance uniform, and both are undesirable. Naori EL is 9% or more 20
% or less, the bulge becomes richer, which is preferable.

The dry heat shrinkage rate (hereinafter referred to as BDS) after the clear water treatment is preferably 50% or less, more preferably 45% or less, in order to emphasize the soft feel.

Further, 42% or less is more preferable for titles with a higher degree of softness. Regarding the measurement method of Naori DS, please refer to BW
The method for measuring S and DFL will be described later.

In the present invention, in addition to the provisions regarding the shrinkage characteristics,
It is necessary to use a specific copolymerized polyester as the high-shrinkage yarn, and to use a specific composite yarn as the low-shrinkage yarn.

The main components of the high shrinkage yarn constituting the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention are:
It is necessary that the copolymerized polyester contains isophthalic acid and BHPP as copolymerized components. The main component of high shrinkage yarn is that the copolymerized polyester accounts for 75% by weight of the yarn cross section.
This means that the copolymerized polyester may be entirely the copolyester.

Copolymerized polyester containing isophthalic acid or BHPP alone as a copolymerization component may satisfy the specifications regarding shrinkage characteristics of the present invention, but the quality may be affected not only in terms of texture, which is the objective of the present invention, but also in terms of dyeability. It cannot be the main component of the high shrinkage yarn that makes up the polyester differential shrinkage blend yarn, which is suitable as a yarn that makes up a silky woven or knitted fabric. In addition, other commonly considered copolymer components, combinations thereof, or combinations thereof with isophthalic acid or BHPP can also be used to achieve high quality silky fabrics not only in terms of texture, which is the object of the present invention, but also in terms of dyeability. It cannot be the main component of the high shrinkage yarn that makes up the polyester differential shrinkage blend yarn that is suitable as the yarn that makes up the knitted fabric.

The main components of the high shrinkage yarn constituting the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention are:
P(a) using isophthalic acid and BHPP as copolymerization components
It is necessary that the copolymerized polyester contains +1.5×P(b)≧8.0 in a satisfying range. P(a)
+1.5 When XP(b) is less than 8.0, the DFL of the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn obtained by the usual spinning and blending method is unlikely to be 5 or more. In addition, it is preferable that P(a) +1.5×P(b) is 10 or more because a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn having shrinkage characteristics within a suitable range can be easily obtained.

It is also necessary to satisfy P(a) +P(b)≦18□0. When P(a) +P(b) exceeds ia and o, the melting point of the melt copolymerized polyester drops to around 210°C, and the melting point difference with the polyester constituting the low-shrinkage yarn is large, resulting in frequent yarn breakage during spinning and drawing. do.

Note that when P(a) +P(b) becomes 16.0 or less, BD
This is preferable because a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn having an S content of 45% or less can be easily obtained.

Furthermore, 1. It is necessary to satisfy O≦P (b)≦4.8. If P (b) is less than 1.0, even if a differential shrinkage blend yarn having shrinkage properties within the preferred range described above is spun by changing the spinning and drawing conditions, these differential shrinkage blend yarns will not A woven or knitted fabric with the desired rich fullness and soft feel cannot be obtained.

It is assumed that this is because the copolymerized polyester containing BHPP as a copolymerization component has the effect of causing strong shrinkage even under the constraints of the woven or knitted structure. Furthermore, P
It is more preferable for (b) to be 1.5 J, 4 or higher because this effect will be further enhanced. On the other hand, in the case of BHPP copolymerized polyester fibers, when the copolymerization fraction of this copolymerization component increases, the light fastness significantly deteriorates. Therefore, it is necessary to satisfy P(b)≦4.8. Regarding light fastness, a P(b) of 4.6 or less produces more favorable results. Further, by copolymerizing isophthalic acid with BHPP, preferably in excess of BHPP, deterioration in light fastness can be suppressed to some extent.

Note that the copolymerized polyester herein refers to a polyester having an M4 structure in which isophthalic acid and BHPP are randomly copolymerized in the main chain. Here, polyethylene terephthalate is preferred as the polyester. This copolymerized polyester or copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate may contain diethylene glycol or the like in its main chain as long as it is by-produced in the manufacturing process, or it may contain threads constituting the excellent silky knitted fabric that is the object of the present invention. Copolymer components other than isophthalic acid and BHPP may be included within the range that can be produced.

On the other hand, the low shrinkage yarn must be made of easily soluble components and poorly soluble components that have different solubility in solvents. The hardly soluble component forming the low shrinkage yarn must be a polyester, preferably a polyester that has excellent fiber forming properties and is essentially polyethylene terephthalate.

A polyester that is substantially polyethylene terephthalate is a polyester that is 90 mole percent or more polyethylene terephthalate. It is also possible to copolymerize isophthalic acid, BHPP, etc. other than ethylene terephthalate, but in this case, the copolymerized polyester that is the main component of the high shrinkage yarn is P(a) + 1.5 XP(b)
It is preferable to provide a difference of 8.0 or more.

If the difference in intrinsic viscosity between the polyester that forms the poorly soluble component of the low-shrinkage yarn and the copolymerized polyester that is the main component of the high-shrinkage yarn is too large, walnuts will occur during the spinning and drawing stages at the same time, causing the process to pass through. The difference in intrinsic viscosity is preferably 0.03 or less, and it is more preferable that the difference in intrinsic viscosity is lower than that of the polyester forming the hardly soluble component of the low shrinkage yarn. The intrinsic viscosity herein is the intrinsic viscosity measured in orthochlorophenol at 25°C.

The polyester that forms the hardly soluble component of the low shrinkage yarn includes
TiO2 is not added, and the copolymerized polyester that is the main component of the high shrinkage yarn has a TiO2 content of 0.02 to 0.1%.
% range is preferable because the gloss and transparency become silkier and the elegant appearance is emphasized.

Among the yarns constituting the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention, at least the low shrinkage yarn of the fiber group having the lowest boiling water shrinkage rate is composed of composite yarns, and such composite yarns have two different solubility in solvents.
It is a component composite yarn, and it is necessary that the easily soluble component occupies two or more locations on the outer periphery of the cross section of this two-component composite yarn.

When high shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn are both two-component composite yarns,
This is preferable since the squeaky feeling and color development are improved.

The cross-sectional shape of the two-component composite yarn in the present invention will be explained below.

FIGS. 1 and 2 are cross-sectional views of typical two-component composite yarns in the present invention, in which the slightly soluble component A and the easily soluble component B.
It is formed of.

The two-component composite yarn shown in FIG. 1 is a trilobal cross-sectional yarn, and the easily soluble component B includes the vicinity of all the vertices of the trilobal shape and is arranged in a wedge shape that tapers toward the inside of the yarn. . Second
The two-component composite yarn shown in the figure is a five-lobed cross-sectional yarn, and the easily soluble component B includes the vicinity of all the vertices of the five-lobed shape and is arranged in a wedge shape tapering toward the inside of the yarn.

If such a two-component composite yarn is subjected to dissolution treatment so that the easily soluble component is dissolved more quickly, it is possible to obtain a yarn with grooves of appropriate depth on the surface depending on the degree of the dissolution treatment.

The easily soluble component B, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, is used in order to exhibit good squeaky feeling and color development after dissolution treatment.
It is preferable that the two-component composite yarn has a wedge shape that tapers toward the inside of the yarn from the surface. Easily soluble component B needs to occupy two or more locations on the surface of the two-component composite yarn in order to exhibit good squeaky feeling and color development after dissolution treatment, and should be contained in an amount of 3 to 12 g.
A range of 3 to 6 locations is preferred, and a range of 3 to 6 locations is more preferred.

When forming grooves on the fiber surface by dissolving and removing easily soluble components, the depth of the grooves is preferably 0.2 μm or more and less than 2 μm in order to exhibit the effect of improving color development. The depth of the easily soluble component in the defined two-component composite yarn is preferably at least 0.3 μm or more, more preferably 1 μm or more.

FIG. 3 is a partially enlarged cross-sectional view of the vicinity of the yarn surface, focusing on one easily soluble component in the cross-section of the two-component composite yarn. The curve PRQ is the boundary line between the easily soluble component and the hardly soluble component on the thread surface, and the line segment PQ is the length of the surface of one easily soluble component. From the viewpoint of imparting color development and squeaky feeling, the length of the line segment PQ is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 4 μm, more preferably in the range of 0.3 to 3 μm. The sum of the lengths of the easily soluble components on the thread surface is 2 to 40% of the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the slightly soluble components on the thread surface. It is preferable that the content is from 5% to 35%, and more preferably from 5% to 35%.

A line segment R3 connecting the midpoint S of the line segment PQ and the point R closest to the yarn center of gravity of the easily soluble component is the depth of the easily soluble component. In a straight line that is perpendicular to the midpoint M of line segment R3, if the points that intersect with the boundary line between the easily soluble component and the poorly soluble component are T and LJ, then the length of the line molecule U is the length of the line segment PQ. 40-90% of the size
It is preferable to have a wedge shape tapered in the direction of the center of gravity of the yarn from the viewpoint of improving color development.

From the viewpoint of stably spinning a two-component composite yarn, the cross-sectional shape is preferably rotationally symmetrical with respect to the center of gravity of the yarn. The cross-sectional shape of the two-component composite yarn is preferably multi-lobed in view of imparting silky luster, and preferably has a 3- to 6-lobed cross-section. The easily soluble component preferably has a wedge-like shape that includes the vertices of the multilobed shape and tapers toward the inside of the thread, and does not need to be arranged to include the vicinity of all the vertices of the multilobed shape. When at least a part of the easily soluble component is dissolved and removed from a two-component composite yarn to create a yarn with grooves on the surface, it is arranged to include the vicinity of the apex of the majority of the multi-lobed shape in order to significantly improve color development and squeaky feeling. It is preferable to arrange the lobes, and it is more preferable to arrange them so as to include the vicinity of all the vertices of the multi-lobed shape. Further, it is not preferable to arrange the easily soluble component in a wedge-like shape tapering toward the inside of the thread from the concave surface between the apexes of the multilobed shape, since this tends to cause fibrillation.

Note that the apex of the multilobed shape is the farthest point F from the center of gravity of the yarn in the convex portion seen from the inside direction of the yarn, and occupying the vicinity of the apex means occupying the area including the apex.

As a treatment method for dissolving and removing easily soluble components of two-component composite yarn, alkaline aqueous solution treatment can be suitably used from the viewpoint of ease of operation, safety, cost, etc. From this point of view, as a solvent, It is preferable to use an alkaline aqueous solution and to use an alkali easily soluble polyester as the easily soluble component. Examples of easily alkali-soluble polyesters include copolymers or blends of polyester and polyalkylene glycols, polyesters containing anionic surfactants, polyesters containing metal sulfonate groups, or polyesters containing polyester and metal sulfonate groups. It is preferable to use a blend of. It is more preferable to use a polyester containing a metal sulfonate group or a blend of a polyester and a polyester containing a metal sulfonate group, which is more easily uneven than a two-component composite yarn (as an easily soluble component that can be dissolved and removed). Examples of polyesters containing sulfonate groups include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (1 to 10 mol%)/ethylene terephthalate (99
90 mol%) is preferred.

The ratio of the dissolution rate of the easily soluble component to the slightly soluble component of the two-component composite yarn in the dissolution treatment is compared in the state of normal drawn yarn of each of the same components, and if it is not greater than 1, the surface that is aimed at by the present invention can be obtained. Fibers with grooves cannot be obtained. It is preferable that the dissolution rate ratio is 1.5 times or more. In particular, in order to stably maintain the depth of the grooves from 0.2 μm to less than 2 μm, the dissolution rate ratio should be 1.5 to 8 times. A range is preferred;
A range of 2 to 6 times is more preferable. In order to realize the above-described cross-sectional shape, the composite ratio of the same components in the two-component composite yarn is such that the weight ratio of M soluble component: easily soluble component is 95:5 to 75:
The range of 25 is preferable, and the range is 90:10 to 80:20.
The range is more preferable.

In order to bring out the differential shrinkage of the differentially shrinkage blended yarn, it is effective to treat it with hot water after it is made into a woven or knitted fabric. During this shrinkage treatment, the high shrinkage yarns are concentrated in the center portion of the woven or knitted fabric in the thickness direction among the mixed fiber yarns. After differential shrinkage treatment, when treating with an alkaline aqueous solution to reduce the weight and improve the hand, if the weight loss is not sufficiently done from the surface of each individual fiber of the high shrinkage yarn, the #1 knitted fabric will have a rough and hard texture with a core. becomes. In order to eliminate this drawback, it is preferable that the copolymerized polyester that is the main component of the high shrinkage yarn has greater solubility in an alkaline aqueous solution than the polyester that forms the hardly soluble component of the low shrinkage yarn.

Furthermore, by applying the different fineness blending technique to the differential shrinkage blend yarn of the present invention, it is possible and preferable to impart appropriate firmness and stiffness to silky woven or knitted fabrics. In this case, the single yarn fineness of the high shrinkage yarn is 1 to 5 denier, the single yarn fineness of the low shrinkage yarn is 0.5 to 3 denier, and the single yarn fineness of the high shrinkage yarn is greater than or equal to the single yarn fineness of the low shrinkage yarn. A combination is preferable because spinning and drawing is relatively easy and sufficient firmness and firmness can be imparted to the R knitted fabric.

The differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention can be used, for example, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-3062
It is suitably obtained by ordinary mixed fiber spinning and drawing as shown in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 49-72449.

In this yarn spinning process, it is preferable to perform a fluid entanglement treatment in order to improve process passability in weaving and knitting, and the degree of entanglement at this time is preferably in the range of 10 to 60 pieces/m. If the degree of entanglement exceeds 60 co/m, it will cause a decrease in DFL efficiency.

The differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is a twisted yarn with a twist number of 500 T/m or less, and can be most suitably applied to fabrics using both the warp and weft, or one of the warp and weft, and achieves the rich fullness that is the goal of the present invention. It has a soft feel, drapability, luster, color development, and creakiness, and it is possible to create textiles without any special appearance or texture. Moreover, the hand feel can be further improved by performing alkali weight loss treatment.

Here, regarding the yarn properties of the differential shrinkage blend yarn in the present invention, methods for measuring important properties such as shrinkage properties, color development, and light fastness will be described.

(1) Boiling water shrinkage rate (BWS) The sample length (
After measuring Lo), a boiling water treatment is performed for 20 minutes under no load. After treatment, the sample length (
Measure Ll).

BWS is expressed by the formula 0.

(2) Boiling DFL (DFL> After dividing the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn into high shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn, each sample length (Lho, IJ
Measure o). Thereafter, boiling water shrinkage treatment is performed for 20 minutes under no load.

After treatment, the sample length (Lh+) was measured under a load of 100 my/d.

LR+). Calculate each boiling water shrinkage rate <BWSh, BWSR) according to method (2).

[)FL is expressed by the formula 0.

・・・・・・・・・■ (3) Dry heat shrinkage rate (BDS) after Sumoto treatment After the ■ treatment, the sample was air-dried under no load, and then 2m9/
Dry heat treatment at 170° C. is performed under a load of d. Processing 41
Measure the sample length (L2) under a load of 100 m3/d.

BDS is expressed by the formula 0.

(4) A woven fabric consisting of a fiber sample to be evaluated for color development is 0.
The product was boiled and refined for 5 minutes in boiling water containing 2% of a nonionic activator (Sanded G-900 (manufactured by Sanyo Kasei) 1) and 0.2% of soda ash, then washed with water, dried, and used for dyeing.

Dyeing conditions are disperse dye SL1mikarOn Black
130 with a bath ratio of 1:30 consisting of S-3B 10% owf, acetic acid 0.5 CC/R1 sodium acetate 0.2 g/12
Dyeing was carried out for 60 minutes in an aqueous solution of 'C.
Reduction cleaning was performed for 20 minutes in an aqueous solution of 00>2Q/Q at 80°C, dried, and dried with a cloth at 200°C for 5 minutes.

The color development was evaluated using a digital measurement color difference calculator [manufactured by Suga Shikenki ■] by stacking five or more fabrics and using the L value measured in a state where no irradiation light was transmitted.

As for the L value, the darker the color, the smaller the value, and the lighter the color, the larger the value.

(5) Light fastness A fabric dyed with a disperse dye (Resoline Blue FBL) was used as an evaluation sample for light fastness. The evaluation is based on an 8-level judgment based on JIS LO842 (carbon arc lamp method). Grade 8 is the best, and the lower the grade, the worse the light fastness. The light fastness targeted by the present invention was grade 4 or higher.

Example The present invention will be explained below with reference to Examples.

Example 1 The boiling water shrinkage rate ( BWS> and boiling DF
The effect of the upper limit of L was clarified.

TiO2-free polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.66) was used as the polyester forming the poorly soluble component of the low shrinkage yarn, and P(a) was 10 mol%, P was used as the poorly soluble component of the high shrinkage yarn. (b) is 4 mol%
T i 0 copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate
5-Sodium sulfoisophthalate (1
, 5 mol%)/ethylene terephthalate (98.5 mol%) copolyester (intrinsic viscosity 0.56, Ti
020.05% by weight) using the simultaneous spinning method at a spinning temperature of 285°C and a spinning speed of 1300 m/min.
A mixed fiber undrawn yarn was obtained with the ratio of soluble component to easily soluble component being 85:15. This undrawn yarn was drawn at a drawing speed of 600 m/mi.
Three types of 50 denier 32 filaments (low shrinkage yarn is 30 denier 24 filament, high shrinkage yarn is 20
A differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn with a denier of 8 filaments was obtained. Air entanglement is applied to the drawn yarn in a range of 20 to 25 co/m,
There was virtually no Kurji. In addition, the ratio of the dissolution rate of the polyester forming the easily soluble component in the alkaline aqueous solution treatment to that of the polyester forming the hardly soluble component of the low shrinkage yarn is 3.9 times, which indicates that the polyester forming the hardly soluble component of the low shrinkage yarn is 3.9 times higher. The dissolution rate ratio of the copolyester forming the hardly soluble component of the high shrinkage yarn to the polyester used in the alkaline aqueous solution treatment is 1.4 times.

The depth of the easily soluble component in the cross section of the composite drawn yarn, which is a low shrinkage yarn, is 5.0 μm, the length of one surface of the easily soluble component is 2.2 μm, and the sum of the lengths occupying the yarn surface is This was 22% of the sum of the outer circumferential lengths of the thread surfaces of the hardly soluble components, and the length of the line molecule U shown in FIG. 3 was 67% of the length of the line segment PQ.

The cross-sectional shape of the high shrinkage yarn was almost similar to that of the low shrinkage yarn.

These differential shrinkage blend yarns are woven into habutae using warp and weave, relaxed scouring under clear water conditions, 170℃ dry heat set, 100℃
The weight was reduced by 30% with a C3% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution, and the texture, color development, and light fastness were evaluated. The evaluation results are also listed in Table 1.

In addition, among the single fibers that form the grooves in the fabric, those that fall under low shrinkage yarn have a depth of 1.2 to 1.4 μm and a width of 2.0 to 2.2 μm.
Grooves in the μm range are formed, and those that correspond to high shrinkage yarns have a depth of 1.0 to 1.2 μm and a width of 2.8 to 3.0 μm.
Grooves with a range of m were formed.

Table 1 Level Nα1 is a high-grade silky fabric that has the desired properties of bulge, soft feel, drapability, gloss, color development, squeaky feel, and light fastness. Level Nα2 is BW
S, BDS is slightly larger, soft feel, drapability is standard N
It is slightly less than α1. Level Nα3 is BWS, BD
S was larger and the texture was hard, and the soft feel and drape properties were poor. In addition, the coloring value corresponds to the level Nα1 to 3, and is the value of a fabric made of a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn without grooves.16
．． All are good compared to 0 to 16.4.

Example 2 According to Example 1, the effect of the lower limit value of boiling point DFL was clarified. The same procedure was followed as in Example 1, except that P (a) was 5 mol% and P (b) was 3% copolymerized polyester copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate as the poorly soluble components of the high shrinkage yarn. Spinning, drawing, weaving, and alkali treatment were performed on the standard. The dissolution rate ratio of the copolyester forming the hardly soluble component of the high shrinkage yarn to the polyester forming the hardly soluble component of the low shrinkage yarn in an alkaline aqueous solution treatment is 1.2 times. Among the single fibers that make up the fabric, those that fall under low shrinkage yarn have a depth of 1.3 to 1.
．． Grooves with a width of 4 μm and a width of 2.0 to 2.2 μm are formed, and grooves with a depth of 1.1 to 1.5 μm are formed for high shrinkage yarns.
Grooves with a width of 3 μm and a width of 2.9 to 3.2 μm were formed.

Table 2 Level Nα4 is a high-grade silky fabric that has the desired characteristics of rich fullness, soft feel, drapability, gloss, color development, squeaky feel, and light fastness. Level NQ5 is DF
L is slightly smaller and the bulge is slightly less than level Nα1. Level Na6 was poor because the DFL was too small.

Example 3 According to Example 1, the effect of the amount of P(b) was clarified.

As the M-soluble component of the high shrinkage yarn, P (a) is 9.0 mol % and P (b) is at a level using a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with 5.0 mol % (
N(17) and P(a) are 9.0 mol%, P(b)
A level (NH3) using a copolymerized polyester in which 4.7 mol% was copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate was subjected to spinning, stretching, weaving, and alkali treatment according to Example 1, and the results were as follows: texture, color development, and light fastness. was evaluated. The evaluation results are also listed in Table 3.

Table 3 Although both had good texture and color development, level NQ7 had poor light fastness, and level Nα8 was somehow within the acceptable range.

Comparative Example 1 P (a) was 15 mol% as a hardly soluble component of high shrinkage yarn.
, P(b) was spun according to Example 1 using a copolyester obtained by copolymerizing 4 mol % with polyethylene terephthalate (water 1jluN0.9> had poor spinnability and a sample that could be used for fabrics was obtained). There wasn't.

Comparative Example 2 Spinning, stretching, and weaving according to Example 1 for a level (No. 10) using a copolymerized polyester in which 14 mol% of P (a) was copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate as a hardly soluble component of a high shrinkage yarn. , alkali treatment was performed. The physical properties and evaluation results were as follows.

BWS 24.5% D F L 19.0
%B[) 841.3% Color development value 15.1 Light fastness 5-6 class Alkali of copolyester forming the hardly soluble component of the high shrinkage yarn against polyester forming the hardly soluble component of the low shrinkage yarn The ratio of dissolution rates in aqueous solution is 1.6 times.

Among the single fibers that make up the fabric, grooves with a depth of 1.1 to 1.3 μm and a width of 2.0 to 2.2 μm are formed in low shrinkage yarns, and in high shrinkage yarns. Grooves with a depth of 1.0 to 1.1 μm and a width of 2.9 to 3.1 μm were formed in the corresponding one.

The fabric was unsatisfactory in terms of fullness, with level Nα6.

[Effects of the Invention] The differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn of the present invention has normal bulge, soft feel,
A polyester differential shrinkage blend that has drapability, luster, color development, and a squeaky feel, has excellent dye fastness to light, and is suitable for use as yarn for making silky woven and knitted fabrics that do not rely solely on a special appearance or texture. It is a fine thread.

That is, in the present invention, a high shrinkage yarn mainly composed of a specific copolymerized polyester and at least a low shrinkage yarn are a differential shrinkage blend yarn that is a two-component composite yarn in which the easily soluble component occupies two or more locations on the outer periphery of the cross section. By specifying the shrinkage characteristics of the yarn, it has rich fullness, soft feel, drapability, luster, color development and squeaky feeling, has excellent light fastness of dyes, and has only a special appearance and texture. It is a polyester shrinkage blended yarn suitable as a yarn constituting a silky woven or knitted fabric.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIGS. 1 and 2 are cross-sectional views of typical two-component composite yarns in the present invention, and FIG. 3 shows the vicinity of the yarn surface when focusing on one easily soluble component in the cross-section of the two-component composite yarn. FIG. A:l! ft Soluble component B: Easily soluble component. Patent applicant Toshi Co., Ltd. Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] A differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn comprising at least two groups of fibers having different heat shrinkage rates, having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30% or less and a boiling yield DFL of 5% to 25%, A low-shrink yarn consisting of a fiber group with the lowest boiling water shrinkage rate is composed of a composite yarn formed of two components with different solubility in solvents, and the easily soluble component covers two or more locations on the outer periphery of the cross section of the composite yarn. On the other hand, at least the group of fibers with the highest boiling water shrinkage percentage contains isophthalic acid and 2,2bis(4-(
2-Hydroxyethoxy)phenyl)propane as follows:
A differential shrinkage polyester mixed fiber yarn comprising a high shrinkage yarn whose main component is a copolymerized polyester containing an amount that satisfies formulas I, II, and III at the same time. P(a)+1.5×P(b)≧8.0・・・・・・・・・
・I P(a)+P(b)≦18.0・・・・・・・・・
...II1.0≦P(b)≦4.8...
・・・・・・III However, P(a) is the molar fraction (%) of isophthalic acid based on the total acid components in the copolymerized polyester, and P(b) is 2.2 relative to the total glycol components in the copolymerized polyester. It is the molar fraction (%) of bis(4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenyl)propane.