JPH0118573Y2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPH0118573Y2 JPH0118573Y2 JP655681U JP655681U JPH0118573Y2 JP H0118573 Y2 JPH0118573 Y2 JP H0118573Y2 JP 655681 U JP655681 U JP 655681U JP 655681 U JP655681 U JP 655681U JP H0118573 Y2 JPH0118573 Y2 JP H0118573Y2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- lining
- outer material
- seam
- kimono
- hem
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 28
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000001217 buttock Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011109 contamination Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000003127 knee Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003014 reinforcing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Outerwear In General, And Traditional Japanese Garments (AREA)
Description
この考案はひとえ長着仕立てのくりこしあげの
縫い代の裏側に裏地を使用してすそ廻わし的なも
のを設け、さらには脇・背などの縫い目を補強し
たウオツシヤブル和服に関するものである。
従来、料理旅館、ホテルなどで働く仲居さんの
長着は年中を通じてごく普通のひとえ長着を着用
することが多く、飲食物の附着による汚れのため
にクリーニングに依頼する需要度が高く、そのク
リーニング代の支出も多い。このため家庭で水洗
いのできるきものの要求が高まつている。また、
立つたり座つたりのはげしい動作による仕事だけ
に背・脇などの縫い目割れ、ほつれなどが生じ易
くその防止のための要求も高まつていることは事
実である。
この考案は上記のようにドライクリーニングに
出すことなく、家庭洗たく機で気軽に洗えて、し
かも型くずれすることがなく且つ上記の如く着用
中のはげしい動作においても脇・背縫い目のほこ
ろび、縫い目ずれのない職業用きものを提供する
ことを目的とするものである。
本考案は、前記目的を達成するために次の構成
を有する。
すなわち本考案は、表地、裏地およびその他の
副資材とともにポリエステル繊維を主体としたき
ものであつて、少なくとも表地の後身頃は左右後
身頃が一体となつた裏地が、表地のくりこしあげ
部よりも下方に縫着されており、一方、裏地の後
身頃の左右は表地の脇縫目と一体化して縫い付け
られ、かつ、裏地後身頃の下方端は開放端にした
ことを特徴とするウオツシヤブル和服に関する。
本考案についてさらに詳細に説明する。
まず、ウオツシヤブルにするためには素材の選
定が必要である。素材としてはポリエステル素材
を少なくとも75%好ましくは100%のものを表
地・裏地その他の副資材に使用し、洗たく収縮
率、洗たくしわ、ホツレ、プリーツ保持性、洗た
く堅ろう度などは次のような特性を有するものを
使用することが望ましい。
洗たく収縮率 2%以下
洗たくしわ 3級以上もしくは
3.5級以上
ホツレ 5mm以下
洗たく堅ろう度 変退色 4級以上
汚 染 3級以上
さらに裏地のすそは、従来のあわせ長着のよう
に表地のすそと縫い合わせると洗たく液がすそに
たまつて型くずれが発生することがある。これを
防止するためには水はけをよくしてやる必要があ
る。
すなわち、本考案では第1図のように裏地aの
すそbは表地cに縫い付けることなく、すそbを
開放端にすることによつてその機能を果たすこと
ができる。次に通常のひとえ長着においては裏地
は用いていない。
したがつて着用時の身体の屈伸によつて背縫い
目特にひざおよび尻部に相当する部分に圧力(引
張り応力)が加わるので縫い目部分にスリツプ
(縫い目ずれ)を発生することがある。
本考案はその補強をするために背縫いのない左
右身頃が一体となつた裏地を表後身頃につける。
つけ方は第1図に示すように上端はくりこしあげ
9の縫い代を利用してつけ、左右は表地の脇縫い
目を利用して表地cと一体化する。ただし裏地の
下方端は前記したように縫い付けずに開放端にな
つている。表地のすそから裏地のすそまでの間隔
dは第1図に示すようにきもののすそから5cm〜
15cmとなるようにし、かつ上端の縫い代を加味し
て丈をきめればよい。また幅は(左右の後身頃
幅)+(左右の縫い代)で適宜きめればよい。
裏地の型入れは丈方向に裏地のタテ方向を合わ
せてもよいが丈方向に裏地のヨコ方向を合わせ
る、いわゆるヨコ取りでもよい。むしろ後者の方
が次の点で利点がある。すなわち、裏地の幅は通
常110cm〜120cm(特殊な切り売りの場合は92cmも
のがある)である。これに対して通常のサイズの
きもののくりこしあげがすそまでの長さは110〜
120cm位いである。ヨコ取りをした場合、裏地の
幅から上端の縫い代を差し引けば、ちようど前記
したような規格に仕上がる。また、通常の織機
(シヤツトルルーム)で織つた裏地であれば耳組
織があるからすそを三つ巻きなどの処理をしなく
てもそのまま使えるというメリツトも出てくる。
なお第1図に示すように袖にも同様に袖裏地e
をつけると外見的にはあわせ長着のような感じに
なる。さらに表地を用いて袖口布fをつけると、
さらにあわせ長着の感覚が増長される。
本考案の後身頃の裏地aのつけ方について第2
図〜第3図によつて説明すると次のようになる。
いずれのつけ方でも共通することであるが“背縫
い”および“くりこしあげ縫い”の手順は、“背
縫い”をしてから“くりこしあげ縫い”の順にす
る。
先ず第2図のようにくりこしあげ縫い代2の上
部に裏地の上端を重ねて地縫い1をする。次にそ
の縫い代がかくれるように裏地aを下方側に折り
返えす。
この縫いつけ方はくりこしあげ折り山と裏地の
裁ち切り端を揃えくりこしあげ縫い目2′の約0.2
cm外側を地縫い1する。折り返えしは、くりこし
あげ縫い代2がかくれる程度のキセ5をかける。
なお裏地aのつけ方としては、第3図A〜Bの
如き方法でつけてもよい。
すなわち、くりこしあげ縫い代2と表地との間
に裏地aの上端をはさみ込んだ形のものでくりこ
しあげ縫い代と裏地とを一本縫い6、またはさら
に二本縫い7の縫い目で一本化してもよい。A図
のように一本縫い目のときは裏地の端8をA図の
ように折り曲げるとよい。第2図および第3図を
比較するとどちらかと云えば縫い目が裏側表面に
出ない点では前者の方法がよい。次に上端でくり
こしあげ縫い目2′と一本化した裏地aは脇縫い
4,4′部分で表地と一体化する。
すなわち、表地の脇縫い4,4′のとき前記の
ようにしてつけた裏地aも表後身頃の生地と一緒
に脇縫いする。通常ひとえ長着の脇縫いは二度縫
い(2本縫い)であり、この方法が本考案では最
適である。その理由としては、一度縫いよりも一
層縫い目強力を増すことができる。
前記のようにつけた裏地は、衽、衿、袖など他
の部分を縫つた後表地の縫い代と一緒に始末(く
け)するか表地の始末(くけ)内に収めるように
する。
本考案は上記したような構成を有するので水洗
い洗たく性および着用中による縫い目のほころび
縫い目ずれのない耐久性に優れたきものになる。
また、ひとえ長着の一部に裏地をつけたことに
よつて前記補強効果および裏地のすべり効果以外
に保温性の効果も得られる。
さらに本考案の効果を実施例によつて述べる。
(実施例)
使用目的を職業婦人用のきものに絞り2着/1
人所有すると考え、次のような洗たく回数を設定
した。
1回/週×4週/月×12/2ケ月×2ケ年
=48回≒50回
収縮率、防しわ、耐ホツレ性、プリーツ保持性
および洗たく堅ろう度の観点から50回の洗たくに
耐えられるポリエステル100%の表地(一越縮緬)
および裏地(羽二重)を使用し副資材の縫糸はポ
リエステルフイラメント縫糸#50を使用して前記
のようなひとえきものを作製した。裏地はたまた
ま110cm幅だつたので前記記述に基づき横どりし
た。このきものを洗たく50回した後の結果を第1
表に示す。
さらにこのきものとポリエステル100%の素材
を使つた後身頃に背縫い目のある通常の単衣長着
について縫い目強度を調べた。その結果を第2表
に示す。
This idea is about washable Japanese clothing, which uses a lining on the back side of the kurikoshiage seam allowance of a Nagigi style to create a hemline, and also reinforces the side and back seams. Traditionally, waitresses who work at inns, hotels, etc. often wear ordinary Nagagi throughout the year, and there is a high demand for them to be cleaned due to stains caused by food and drink. The cost of cleaning is also high. For this reason, there is an increasing demand for kimonos that can be washed with water at home. Also,
It is true that work that requires strenuous movements such as standing and sitting makes it easy for seams to crack or fray on the back and sides, and there is an increasing demand for ways to prevent such problems. As mentioned above, this idea can be easily washed in a home washing machine without having to send it to the dry cleaners, and it does not lose its shape, and as mentioned above, the side and back seams do not unravel or shift even when worn during strenuous movements. Its purpose is to provide kimonos for professional use. The present invention has the following configuration to achieve the above object. In other words, the present invention is a kimono mainly made of polyester fibers together with the outer material, lining material, and other auxiliary materials. , and the left and right sides of the back body of the lining are sewn integrally with the side seams of the outer fabric, and the lower end of the back body of the lining is left open. . The present invention will be explained in more detail. First, to make it washable, it is necessary to select the material. As for the material, at least 75% polyester material, preferably 100%, is used for the outer material, lining material, and other auxiliary materials, and the following characteristics such as shrinkage rate, wrinkles, fraying, pleat retention, and fastness after washing are used. It is desirable to use one with Shrinkage rate after washing: 2% or less Wrinkling: Grade 3 or above or grade 3.5 or above, fraying: 5mm or less Washing fastness Discoloration: Grade 4 or above Contamination: Grade 3 or above In addition, the hem of the lining is sewn to the hem of the outer material, like a conventional long-length garment. Washing liquid may accumulate at the hem, causing the product to lose its shape. To prevent this, it is necessary to improve drainage. That is, in the present invention, the hem b of the lining a is not sewn to the outer material c as shown in FIG. 1, but by making the hem b open at the end, it can fulfill its function. Next, normal hitoe nagagi does not have a lining. Therefore, as the body bends and stretches when wearing the garment, pressure (tensile stress) is applied to the back seams, particularly in the areas corresponding to the knees and buttocks, which may cause slips (stitch deviations) in the seams. In order to reinforce this, the present invention attaches a lining to the front and back body parts, in which the left and right body parts are integrated without back stitching.
As shown in Figure 1, the top edge is attached using the seam allowance of the raised 9, and the left and right sides are integrated with the outer material c using the side seams of the outer material. However, the lower end of the lining is not sewn as described above and is left open. The distance d from the hem of the outer material to the hem of the lining is 5 cm or more from the hem of the kimono, as shown in Figure 1.
All you have to do is make it 15cm long and take into account the seam allowance at the top when determining the length. Also, the width can be determined as appropriate by (left and right back body width) + (left and right seam allowance). The molding of the lining may be done by aligning the vertical direction of the lining with the length direction, but it may also be done by aligning the horizontal direction of the lining with the length direction, so-called horizontal cutting. Rather, the latter has advantages in the following points. In other words, the width of the lining is usually 110cm to 120cm (in the case of special pieces sold, there are 92cm widths). On the other hand, the length of a normal size kimono kimono to the hem is 110~
It is about 120cm. If you trim the width, subtract the top seam allowance from the width of the lining and you will end up with the specifications just mentioned above. Another advantage is that if the lining is woven on a regular loom (shuttle room), it can be used as is because it has selvage tissue, so there is no need to process the hem by wrapping it in three. Furthermore, as shown in Figure 1, the sleeves are also lined with sleeve lining e.
When you wear it, it looks like a matching long coat. Furthermore, if you attach cuff cloth f using the outer material,
Furthermore, the feeling of wearing long clothes is enhanced. Part 2 about how to attach the lining a to the back body of this invention
The explanation will be as follows with reference to FIGS.
What is common to all attachment methods is that the steps for ``back stitching'' and ``back stitching'' are to ``stitch'' the back and then ``back stitch''. First, as shown in Figure 2, place the top edge of the lining over the top of the raised seam allowance 2 and sew the ground seam 1. Next, fold lining a downward so that the seam allowance is hidden. This method of sewing is done by aligning the folded edge and the raw edge of the lining, about 0.2' of the 2' of the folded seam.
cm Stitch 1 on the outside. For the folded edges, apply a crevice of 5 to cover the folded seam allowance of 2. Note that the lining a may be attached by the methods shown in FIGS. 3A to 3B. In other words, the upper edge of the lining a is sandwiched between the raised seam allowance 2 and the outer material, and even if the raised seam allowance and the lining are combined into one seam with a single stitch 6 or a double stitch 7. good. When making a single stitch as shown in figure A, it is best to fold the edge 8 of the lining as shown in figure A. Comparing Figures 2 and 3, the former method is better in that the seams do not appear on the back surface. Next, the lining a, which has been integrated with the raised seam 2' at the upper end, is integrated with the outer material at the side seams 4 and 4'. That is, when side-stitching 4, 4' of the outer fabric, the lining a attached as described above is also side-stitched together with the fabric of the front and back body. Normally, the side seams of hitoe nagagi are double stitched (double stitches), and this method is optimal for the present invention. The reason for this is that the strength of the seam can be increased even more than when it is sewn once. After sewing other parts such as the collar, collar, sleeves, etc., the lining attached as described above should be placed along with the seam allowance of the outer material, or placed within the outer seam allowance. Since the present invention has the above-described structure, it becomes a kimono that is easy to wash with water and has excellent durability without seams coming apart or shifting during wear. Furthermore, by adding a lining to a part of the long garment, in addition to the reinforcing effect and the slipping effect of the lining, a heat retention effect can also be obtained. Furthermore, the effects of the present invention will be described by way of examples. (Example) Purpose of use: Kimono for professional women 2/1
Considering that people own the product, we set the following number of washes. 1 time/week x 4 weeks/month x 12/2 months x 2 years = 48 times ≒ 50 times Can withstand 50 washes in terms of shrinkage rate, wrinkle resistance, fraying resistance, pleat retention, and washability. Outer material made of 100% polyester (Ichikoshi chirimen)
A single kimono as described above was made using a lining (habutae) and polyester filament sewing thread #50 as an accessory sewing thread. The lining happened to be 110cm wide, so I made the width based on the above description. The first result is the result after washing this kimono 50 times.
Shown in the table. Furthermore, we investigated the seam strength of this kimono and a regular single-length long kimono made of 100% polyester material with a back seam on the back. The results are shown in Table 2.
【表】【table】
【表】【table】
【表】
本考案のきものの背縫い目強力は、上記のよう
に3〜4倍の強力になつた。[Table] As mentioned above, the back seam strength of the kimono of the present invention was 3 to 4 times stronger.
第1図は、ひとえ長着に裏地をつけたひとえ長
着の正面図。第2図はくりこしあげ縫い代に裏地
をつけた状態の正面図。第3図Aおよび第3図B
はくりこしあげ縫い代に裏地をつけて別態様の正
面図。
1:裏地つけ地縫い、2:くりこしあげ縫い
代、2′:くりこしあげ縫い目、3:背縫い目、
4,4′:脇縫い、5:キセ、6:裏地つけの1
本縫い目、7:裏地つけの2本縫い目、8:裏地
の端、9:くりこしあげ部、a:裏地、b:裏地
のすそ、c:表地、d:表地のすそから裏地のす
そまでの間隔、e:袖裏地、f:袖口布。
Figure 1 is a front view of Hitoe Nagigi with lining added. Figure 2 is a front view of the raised seam with lining added. Figure 3A and Figure 3B
Front view of another version with lining added to the raised seam allowance. 1: Back seam with lining, 2: Hollow seam allowance, 2': Hollow seam, 3: Back seam,
4, 4': Side seam, 5: Kise, 6: Adding lining 1
Regular seam, 7: Two seams attached to the lining, 8: Edge of the lining, 9: Raised part, a: Lining, b: Hem of the lining, c: Outer material, d: Distance from the hem of the outer material to the hem of the lining , e: sleeve lining, f: cuff cloth.
Claims (1)
エステル繊維を主体としたきものであつて、少な
くとも表地の後身頃は左右後身頃が一体となつた
裏地が、表地のくりこしあげ部よりも下方に縫着
されており、一方、裏地の後身頃の左右は表地の
脇縫目と一体化して縫い付けられ、かつ、裏地後
身頃の下方端は開放端にしたことを特徴とするウ
オツシヤブル和服。 It is a kimono that is mainly made of polyester fibers together with the outer material, lining material, and other auxiliary materials, and at least in the rear part of the outer material, the lining, in which the left and right rear parts are integrated, is sewn below the hollowed-out part of the outer material. The washable Japanese clothing is characterized in that the left and right sides of the back body of the lining are sewn integrally with the side seams of the outer material, and the lower end of the back body of the lining is left open.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP655681U JPH0118573Y2 (en) | 1981-01-22 | 1981-01-22 |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP655681U JPH0118573Y2 (en) | 1981-01-22 | 1981-01-22 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPS57121606U JPS57121606U (en) | 1982-07-28 |
JPH0118573Y2 true JPH0118573Y2 (en) | 1989-05-31 |
Family
ID=29804846
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP655681U Expired JPH0118573Y2 (en) | 1981-01-22 | 1981-01-22 |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPH0118573Y2 (en) |
-
1981
- 1981-01-22 JP JP655681U patent/JPH0118573Y2/ja not_active Expired
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JPS57121606U (en) | 1982-07-28 |
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