JP7458920B2 - Hair cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to hair cosmetics.

Typical hair straightening agents contain reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid and cysteamine, alkaline agents such as ammonia and monoethanolamine, and oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide. It can be corrected. However, reducing agents and alkaline agents damage the hair, resulting in poor texture of the hair after treatment and problems such as hair breakage due to repeated treatments.
Therefore, in recent years, hair treatment agents have been disclosed that provide curl-suppressing effects without using reducing agents or oxidizing agents. Patent Document 1 proposes a hair treatment agent containing glyoxylic acid, a guanidine salt and/or urea, and having a pH of 1.0 to 2.5. Further, Patent Document 2 discloses a hair treatment agent containing glyoxylic acid and one or more selected from gluconolactone and erucalactone in a specific blending ratio and having a pH in the range of 2.0 to 3.8. Proposed.
However, since these hair treatment agents are treated under strongly acidic conditions, the hair becomes excessively astringent, resulting in poor feel of the hair after treatment. Furthermore, for colored hair, there is a problem in that the hair color fades.

JP 2016-17069 Publication JP 2019-81747 A

An object of the present invention is to provide a hair cosmetic that has an excellent effect of suppressing hair curl, has good softness and smoothness even after repeated treatments, and has less fading of hair color.

As a result of intensive research, the present inventors found that (A) carboxymethylcysteine or its salt, (B) basic amino acid or its salt, and (C) an organic alkaline agent are contained, and the B) A hair cosmetic having a molar ratio [(B)/(A)] of 1.02 to 10.0 and a pH of 6.5 to 9.5, It has been found that it has an excellent curl-suppressing effect, that even after repeated treatments, the hair remains soft and easy to run through, and that the hair color does not fade easily.
In the present invention, it is particularly preferable that the basic amino acid (B) or its salt is lysine or its salt.
In the present invention, it is particularly preferable that the organic alkaline agent (C) is an alkanolamine.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a hair cosmetic that is excellent in the effect of suppressing hair curl, has good softness and smoothness of hair even after repeated treatments, and has little fading of hair color.

The hair cosmetic of the present invention comprises (A) carboxymethylcysteine or a salt thereof (hereinafter referred to as "(A
), (B) a basic amino acid or its salt (hereinafter sometimes referred to as ``component (B)''), (C) an organic alkaline agent (hereinafter sometimes referred to as ``component (C)'') ), the molar ratio of component (B) to component (A) [(B)/(A)] is 1.02 to 10.0, and the pH is 6.5 to 9.5. It is characterized by:

(A) Carboxymethylcysteine or a Salt Thereof Carboxymethylcysteine is a compound having a structure in which the SH group of cysteine is protected with a carboxymethyl group.
Examples of the salt of carboxymethylcysteine include basic amino acid salts such as lysine salt and arginine salt, with the lysine salt being preferred.
The component (A) may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
The blend amount of component (A) in the hair cosmetic composition is preferably 0.01% by mass to 12.0% by mass, more preferably 0.05% by mass to 12.0% by mass, and even more preferably 0.1% by mass to 12.0% by mass.
When the ratio is 0.01% by mass or more, the effect of suppressing curl is better, and when the ratio is 12% by mass or less, the stability of the preparation is better.

(B) Basic amino acid or its salt The basic amino acid or its salt improves the curl-inhibiting effect due to the synergistic effect with component (A). Examples of the basic amino acid include lysine, arginine, histidine, etc., and lysine is preferred. Salts of basic amino acids include hydrochloride, acetate, L-aspartate, etc., with hydrochloride being preferred.
Component (B) may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
The amount of component (B) to be blended may be such that the molar ratio of component (B) to component (A) [(B)/(A)] is 1.02 to 10.0. 1 to 10.0 is more preferable, and 1.2 to 10.0 is even more preferable. When the molar ratio [(B)/(A)] of component (B) to component (A) is 1.02 or more, the synergistic effect of component (A) and component (B) becomes more pronounced, suppressing the texture. As a result, the feel of the hair, such as the softness of the hair and the ability to run your fingers through it, is improved.
The number of moles of (B) in the molar ratio of component (B) to component (A) is the total number of moles of basic amino acids contained in the hair cosmetic. When containing a basic amino acid, the number of moles of (B) is the total number of moles of the basic amino acid contained as a salt of the component (A) and the number of moles of the basic amino acid contained as the component (B).
For example, the number of moles of carboxymethylcysteine basic amino acid salt of component (A) is a1 mole, the number of moles of component (A) other than carboxymethylcysteine basic amino acid salt is a2 moles, and the number of moles of component (B) is b When expressed in moles, the molar ratio [(B)/(A)] is a value calculated as (a1+b)/(a1+a2).

(C) Organic alkaline agent The organic alkaline agent has a synergistic effect with carboxymethylcysteine to improve the curl-suppressing effect.
Examples of the organic alkali agent include alkanolamines, aliphatic amines, and nitrogen atom-containing heterocyclic compounds.
Examples of alkanolamines include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, and tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine.
Examples of aliphatic amines include ethylenediamine and diethylhexylamine.
Examples of the nitrogen atom-containing heterocyclic compound include morpholine, niacin, and the like.
As the organic alkaline agent, alkanolamine is preferable from the viewpoint of the effect of suppressing curls, and monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, and aminomethylpropanol are more preferable.
The organic alkaline agent in the hair cosmetic may be blended so that the pH of the hair cosmetic becomes 6.5 to 9.5, preferably 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, and 0.01% by mass. The amount is more preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight. When the blending amount is 0.01% by mass or more, the effect of suppressing curls becomes good, and when the blending amount is 20% by mass or less, hair damage can be suppressed.
The pH of the hair cosmetic is 6.5 to 9.5, more preferably 7.0 to 9.5.

(D) Other components In addition to the above-mentioned components (A), (B), and (C), the hair cosmetic of the present invention contains other optional additive components normally used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc. It can be added within a range that does not impair the effects of the invention.
Such components include, for example, surfactants such as anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, anionic polymers, cationic polymers, nonionic polymers or amphoteric polymers. Water-soluble polymers such as naturally extracted oils, higher fatty acids, hydrocarbons, ester oils, glycerides, waxes, higher alcohols, oils such as fatty acid amides or various modified silicone oils, collagen hydrolysates, keratin hydrolysates, silk hydrolysates Decomposition products or protein hydrolysates such as elastin hydrolysates or their derivatives, as well as humectants, lower alcohols, thickeners, pH adjusters, ultraviolet absorbers, chelating agents, preservatives, pigments, dyes, fragrances, and animals. Conventionally used compounds such as extracts and plant extracts can be appropriately blended.

The form of the hair cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can be applied to hair, but examples include shampoo, rinse-off treatment, leave-on treatment, multi-component treatment, hair pre- and post-treatment agents, and styling. Agents, perm agents, hair dyes, etc. can be mentioned.
Hair cosmetics may or may not be washed off after being applied to the hair.
The hair cosmetic may be a single-drug type or a multi-drug type of two or more parts. In the case of a multi-drug formula, for example, a two-drug formula of cosmetic A containing ingredient (A) and cosmetic BC containing ingredients (B) and (C), or cosmetic A containing ingredient (A). A three-drug formula includes cosmetic B containing component (B), and cosmetic C containing component (C). From the viewpoint of convenience, a one-drug formula is preferred.

The amount of the hair cosmetic used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be selected depending on the amount of hair, application time, and usage form. For example, in the case of hair cosmetics such as shampoos and rinse-off treatments that are used after washing, the hair cosmetics of the present invention are applied in an amount of 0.2 to 2 times the weight of the hair, preferably 0.2 to 2 times the amount of the hair. It is preferable to apply 5 to 1.5 times the amount, leave it for 3 to 30 minutes, preferably 5 to 20 minutes, and then wash it off.
In the case of hair cosmetics that are used without rinsing off, such as leave-on treatments, it is preferable to use the hair cosmetics of the present invention in an amount of 0.01 to 0.2 times the weight of the hair; It is more preferable to use .01 times to 0.1 times the amount.
From the viewpoint of curl suppression effect, it is preferable to perform heat treatment after applying the hair cosmetic, for example, treatment while applying mechanical force and heat using a hair styling iron with a surface temperature of 140°C to 230°C, preferably 160 to 180°C. One method is to do so.

The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples in any way.
According to the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 5, rinse-off treatments of Examples 1 to 22 and Comparative Examples 1 to 13, and leave-on treatments of Examples 23 to 34 and Comparative Examples 14 to 21 were prepared.
The values in the table indicate mass %, and the remainder of water is the amount required to make the total amount 100 mass %.
Regarding the molar ratio [(B)/(A)] in the table, for example, Example 1 contains 0.01 mass% of carboxymethylcysteine (molecular weight: 179.19) as the component (A) and 0.01 mass% of lysine (molecular weight: 146.19) as the component (B). In this case, the number of moles of the component (A) in 100 g of the hair cosmetic is 0.01/179.19 = 0.0000558 moles, and the number of moles of the component (B) is 0.01/146.19 = 0.0000684 moles, so the molar ratio [(B)/(A)] is 1.226.
Similarly, Example 4 contains 5 mass% of carboxymethylcysteine lysine (molecular weight: 325.38) as the component (A) and 0.5 mass% of lysine as the component (B). In this case, the number of moles of component (A) in 100 g of the hair cosmetic is 5/325.38 = 0.01537 moles, and the number of moles of component (B) is the sum of the number of moles derived from carboxymethylcysteine lysine and the number of moles derived from lysine, that is, (5/325.38) + (0.5/146.19) = 0.01879 moles, and the molar ratio [(B)/(A)] is 1.223.

The ingredients in the table are as follows:
(1) Behentrimonium chloride: docosyltrimethylammonium chloride (2) Stearoxypropyltrimonium chloride: octadecyloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (3) Dimethicone: highly polymerized dimethylpolysiloxane (viscosity at 25°C: 20,000 to 60,000 mPa·s)
(4) Amodimethicone: amino-modified silicone oil (viscosity at 25°C: 50,000 to 100,000 mPa·m, amino group content: 0.25 to 0.35% by mass)

<Evaluation method of habit suppression effect>
(1) Creation of hair bundles for evaluation A human hair bundle (approximately 20 cm, approximately 0.5 g), which forms three crests of waves when hanging naturally, was washed with a 10% by mass sodium laureth sulfate aqueous solution and dried. , hair bundles for evaluation were created. (2) Performance evaluation test of rinse-off treatment 0.7 g of the rinse-off treatment of Examples 1 to 22 and Comparative Examples 1 to 13 was applied to the hair bundles for evaluation and left at 32° C. for 15 minutes. Thereafter, the hair was rinsed with lukewarm water to wash away the hair cosmetic from the hair. After washing with water, the water was wiped off with a towel and then dried with a hair dryer. Further, the hair was stretched into a straight shape while applying mechanical force and heat to the hair using a hair styling iron heated to about 180°C. Thereafter, the hair was washed and dried using a 10% by mass sodium laureth sulfate aqueous solution, and the curl-inhibiting effect was evaluated.
(3) Performance evaluation test of leave-on treatment 0.03g of the leave-on treatment of Examples 23-34 and Comparative Examples 14-21 was applied to hair bundles for evaluation, and the hair was mechanically applied with a hair styling iron heated to about 180°C. The hair was stretched into a straight shape while applying force and heat. Thereafter, the hair was washed and dried using a 10% by mass sodium laureth sulfate aqueous solution, and the curl-inhibiting effect was evaluated.
(4) Evaluation Criteria Evaluation was performed by sensory evaluation by a panel of 10 experts. Specifically, the condition of the evaluation hair strands before and after using the hair cosmetics was compared, and each expert panel scored them according to the evaluation criteria shown below.
The habit-suppressing effect was evaluated based on the total score obtained according to the following comprehensive evaluation criteria.

[Evaluation point criteria]
5 points: The habit suppressing effect is very strong and the habit is gone, 4 points: The habit suppressing effect is strong and the habit is almost gone , 3 points: The habit suppressing effect is weak but the habit remains, 2 Point: The effect of suppressing the habit is weak and a moderate degree of habit remains, 1 point: There is no effect of suppressing the habit and a strong habit remains.
[Comprehensive evaluation criteria for test items]
Evaluation 5: Total score is 40 points or more Evaluation 4: Total score is 32 points or more and less than 40 points Evaluation 3: Total score is 24 points or more and less than 32 points Evaluation 2: Total score is 16 points or more and less than 24 points 1: Total score is less than 16 points

<Evaluation method for hair softness and finger combing>
(1) Creation of wig for evaluation Prepare the required number of wigs (triple cut; manufactured by Regina Co., Ltd.), and use NICCA Chemical Co., Ltd.'s "Trenillo Powder Bleach (product name)" and "Trenillo OX-6. 0 (trade name)" at a mass ratio of 1:3 was applied, and the hair was bleached by heating at 32° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, the hair of the wig was washed with a 10% by mass aqueous sodium laureth sulfate solution and dried to produce a wig for evaluation.
(2) Performance evaluation test of rinse-off treatment 60 g of the rinse-off treatments of Examples 1 to 22 and Comparative Examples 1 to 13 were applied to wigs for evaluation and left at 32° C. for 15 minutes. Thereafter, the hair was rinsed with lukewarm water to wash away the hair cosmetic from the hair. After washing with water, the water was wiped off with a towel and then dried with a hair dryer. Furthermore, the hair was stretched into a straight shape while applying mechanical force and heat to the hair using a hair styling iron heated to about 180° C., and the softness of the hair after the first treatment and the fingerability of the hair were evaluated. Furthermore, this treatment was repeated four times, and the softness of the hair and the hair's fingerability after the five treatments were evaluated.
(3) Performance evaluation test of leave-on treatment 2g of the leave-on treatments of Examples 23 to 34 and Comparative Examples 14 to 21 were applied to the evaluation wig, and the hair was applied with mechanical force using a hair styling iron heated to about 180°C. The hair was stretched into a straight shape while applying heat, and the softness of the hair after the first treatment and the way the hair was run through the fingers were evaluated. Furthermore, this treatment was repeated four times, and the softness of the hair and the hair's fingerability after the five treatments were evaluated.
(4) Evaluation Criteria Evaluation was performed by sensory evaluation by a panel of 10 experts. Specifically, each expert panel scored according to the evaluation criteria shown below, and the softness of the hair and the fingerability of the hair were evaluated based on the total value of the obtained evaluation points according to the overall evaluation criteria shown below.

[Evaluation criteria]
5 points: very good, 4 points: good, 3 points: average, 2 points: poor, 1 point: very poor.
[Overall evaluation criteria for test items]
Rating 5: The total score is 40 points or more. Rating 4: The total score is 32 points or more but less than 40 points. Rating 3: The total score is 24 points or more but less than 32 points. Rating 2: The total score is 16 points or more but less than 24 points. Rating 1: The total score is less than 16 points.

<Method for evaluating hair color fading suppression effect>
(1) Preparation of hair bundles for evaluation Prepare the required number of yak hair bundles (approximately 1.0 g, manufactured by Matai Japan Co., Ltd.), and prepare the necessary number of yak hair bundles (approximately 1.0 g, manufactured by Matai Japan Co., Ltd.), and 1.5 g of "Assort Aria C OX-6.0 (trade name)" prepared at a mass ratio of 1:1 was applied and heated at 32° C. for 30 minutes to dye the hair. Thereafter, the hair was washed with a 10% by mass aqueous sodium laureth sulfate solution and dried to prepare a hair bundle for evaluation.
(2) Performance evaluation test of rinse-off treatment 1.5 g of the rinse-off treatment of Examples 1 to 22 and Comparative Examples 1 to 13 was applied to hair tresses for evaluation and left at 32° C. for 15 minutes. Thereafter, the hair was rinsed with lukewarm water to wash away the hair cosmetic from the hair. After washing with water, the water was wiped off with a towel and then dried with a hair dryer. Furthermore, the hair was stretched into a straight shape while applying mechanical force and heat to the hair using a hair styling iron heated to about 180° C., and the effect of suppressing fading of the hair color after the first treatment was evaluated.
(3) Performance evaluation test of leave-on treatment 0.05g of the leave-on treatment of Examples 23 to 34 and Comparative Examples 14 to 21 was applied to hair bundles for evaluation, and the hair was applied with a hair styling iron heated to about 180°C. Hair was stretched into a straight shape while applying mechanical force and heat, and the effect of inhibiting hair color fading after the first treatment was evaluated.
(4) Evaluation Criteria Evaluation was performed by measuring the color brightness (L value) of the evaluation hair strands before and after using the hair cosmetic. Specifically, the L value of the evaluation hair bundles treated with the hair cosmetics of Examples or Comparative Examples was measured using a spectrocolorimeter (SD 7000, manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Kogyo Co., Ltd.), and the hair cosmetics were used. The difference from the L value of the hair bundle for evaluation before coloring was scored according to the evaluation criteria shown below, and the fading suppressing effect of the hair color was evaluated.

[Evaluation criteria for test items]
Evaluation 5: Difference in L value is less than 3 Evaluation 4: Difference in L value is 3 or more and less than 6 Evaluation 3: Difference in L value is 6 or more and less than 9 Evaluation 2: Difference in L value is 9 or more and less than 12 Evaluation 1: L Difference in value is 12 or more

The above examples confirmed that the hair cosmetic of the present invention has an excellent effect of suppressing hair curls, leaves hair soft and easy to run through even after repeated treatments, and shows little fading of hair color. did it.

Claims (3)

Contains (A) carboxymethylcysteine or its salt, (B) a basic amino acid or its salt, and (C) an organic alkaline agent, and the molar ratio of component (B) to component (A) [(B)/(A )] is 1.02 to 10.0, and has a pH of 6.5 to 9.5. The hair cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the basic amino acid (B) or a salt thereof is lysine or a salt thereof. The hair cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the organic alkaline agent (C) is an alkanolamine.