JP7346241B2 - perm method - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to perming methods, particularly to improving the wet state of hair during heating, reduction and oxidation steps.

The surface of hair is made up of cuticle cells layered like scales from the root to the tip. The degree to which the cuticle cells overlap is determined by hydrogen bonds, ionic bonds, and SS bonds (disulfide bonds) between the cuticles, and the waving characteristics of the hair are determined by the positions of these bonds between the cuticles.
Therefore, in order to shape the hair into a desired shape, it is sufficient to once break the bonds between the cuticles at the old positions, adjust the shape, and then re-bond them at the new positions.

Hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds have a relatively large effect on wave characteristics, but these bonds are easily broken by the presence of water and recombined by drying, so it is important to correct the hair into a predetermined shape after washing and dry it. This allows hair to be easily shaped.
However, since hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds are broken by the presence of water as described above, it is difficult to maintain the shape for a long time.

On the other hand, SS bonds are not easily broken by water, but are usually broken by reduction treatment and recombined by oxidation treatment. Therefore, once the position of the SS bond between the cuticles is adjusted, the hair shape can be maintained for a relatively long period of time. For this reason, a hair shaping method using reduction/oxidation treatment is called a permanent wave method (abbreviated as a perm method).
In this way, in order to adjust the shape of hair as desired, various methods have been devised for cutting and recombining the hydrogen bonds, ionic bonds, SS bonds, etc. (Patent Documents 1 and 2).

Patent No. 5894219 JP2018-187211

However, in the so-called perm method, the hair is heated and dried, and chemically treated with reducing agents, oxidizing agents, etc., which may cause damage to the hair, resulting in a dry finish.
The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned prior art, and the problems to be solved are to provide a high hair shaping effect, reduce damage to the hair, and suppress dryness of the finished product.

In order to solve the above problems, the perming method according to the present invention includes:
a moistening step of keeping the hair to be treated in a moist state;
a shaping step of bringing the wet hair into a predetermined shaping state;
a heating step of heating the hair in the molded state while it is still wet;
a reduction process in which the hair after heat treatment is reduced while still in a molded and wet state;
a reducing agent removal step of washing and removing the reducing agent from the hair that has been subjected to the reduction treatment in a molded and wet state;
an oxidation process in which the hair from which the reducing agent has been removed is oxidized while it is still shaped and wet;
an oxidizing agent removal step of washing and removing the oxidizing agent from the oxidized hair;
The present invention is characterized by comprising a drying step of drying the hair after removing the oxidizing agent.

Further, in the method, it is preferable that the forming step includes a process of winding hair around a rod , and that a rod removing step is provided between the oxidizing agent removing step and the oxidizing step.
Further, in the above method, it is preferable that the reduction treatment time of the hair is 1 to 5 minutes and the oxidation treatment time of the hair is 1 to 10 minutes.

According to the present invention, by shaping, heating, reducing, and oxidizing hair while keeping it moist, it is possible to obtain high moldability while suppressing hair damage and dryness.

FIG. 2 is a comparison diagram of the strength at break of hair treated according to the present invention and a comparative example.

[Wetting process]
In the present invention, the moistening step is a step of moistening the hair to be subjected to the permanent wave treatment with water, and specifically, the hair is in a state where water droplets are wiped off with a towel after the hair washing treatment (towel drying).
This moistening step breaks hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds between the hair cuticles.
[Molding process]
In the present invention, the shaping step is a step of fixing the hair into a desired shape, such as by winding the hair around a rod.
In this shaping process, hair with cuticle hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds broken is shaped with less stress.
[Heating process]
In the present invention, the heating step is a step of heating wet and shaped hair using a heat rod at 50 to 100°C for 5 to 20 minutes. preferable.
This heating process progresses the softening of the hair as a whole, moistens the hair deep down, and breaks the hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds between the cuticles deep down.
[Reduction process]
In the present invention, the reduction step involves cleaving SS bonds (disulfide bonds) using a reducing agent, preferably in the presence of an alkaline agent.

Examples of the reducing agent include thiolactic acid or a salt thereof, thioglycolic acid or a salt thereof, cysteine or a salt thereof, acetylcysteine or a salt thereof, cysteamine or a salt thereof, a cyclic mercapto compound, and the like.

Examples of thiolactic acid salts include ammonium salts and monoethanolamine salts of thiolactic acid. The amount of thiolactic acid or its salt blended in the present composition is preferably 1 to 12% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 11% by weight.

Examples of the alkaline agent include inorganic ammonium salts such as monoethanolamine, ammonia, and ammonium bicarbonate, organic ammonium salts, organic amines, inorganic alkaline agents, and basic amino acids.

Ammonia or monoethanolamine is most preferred in this composition, as it swells the hair and allows easy penetration of the reducing agent.

The amount of ammonia added to the present composition is preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight. If this amount is less than 0.01% by mass of the composition, the effects of ammonia will not be apparent, and if it exceeds 8% by mass, hair damage will tend to increase.

These reducing agents and alkaline agents can be appropriately selected depending on the specific purpose of application of this method, the types of reducing agents and alkaline agents to be mixed together, and the like.

[Reducing agent removal process]
In the present invention, in the reducing agent removal step, the reducing agent is usually removed by rinsing with warm water.

[Oxidation process]
In the present invention, in the oxidation step, hair is treated with an oxidation treatment agent to recombine the SS bonds broken in the reduction step. At this time, the hair is in a state with almost no stress, with all hydrogen bonds, ionic bonds, and SS bonds being severed down to the deep layer between the cuticles. Therefore, hair in a shaped state reestablishes SS bonds at a cuticle relative position corresponding to its shape.
In this oxidation step, an oxidizing agent is used, and examples of the oxidizing agent contained in the oxidizing agent include compounds containing peroxides such as hydrogen peroxide, sodium carbonate peroxide, and urea peroxide; Alkali metal persalts such as sodium perborate, sodium persulfate, and potassium monopersulfate; those containing oxidizing agents such as alkali metal bromates such as sodium bromate and potassium bromate, etc. . The amount of the oxidizing agent in the oxidizing treatment agent is not particularly limited, and can be appropriately selected depending on the specific purpose of hair shape adjustment using the present composition, the type of oxidizing agent used, etc.

[Oxidant removal process]
In the present invention, in the oxidizing agent removal step, the oxidizing agent is usually removed by rinsing with hot water.

[Rod removal process]
In the present invention, when a rod is used for molding, the rod is removed after the oxidation step.
Since the hair is still in a wet state, the hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds between the cuticles have been broken, but the SS bonds have already been rebuilt during the oxidation process. Therefore, in the next finishing step, hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds are also reconstructed at the relative positions of the cuticle in the molded state as it dries.

[Finishing process]
In the finishing step, the hair is mainly dried using a hair dryer or the like. Note that, prior to drying, it is also suitable to perform a treatment to repair damage to the hair.

Note that the following components can be optionally added to the reduction treatment agent used in the reduction step and the oxidation treatment agent used in the oxidation step.
Quaternary ammonium salt By incorporating a quaternary ammonium salt into each treatment agent, it is possible to reduce friction on the hair and improve the feel of the finished product. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts include alkyltrimethylammonium salts, alkyldimethylaminoacetic acid betaines, and the like. As the alkyl group of these quaternary ammonium salts, the alkyl groups in quaternary ammonium salts that are usually blended into hair cosmetics can be selected and used. Specific examples include lauryl group, myristyl group, palmityl group, stearyl group, and behenyl group. Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearyltrimethylammonium chloride may be suitably blended into each treatment agent.

The amount of the quaternary ammonium salt added in each treatment agent is not particularly limited, but is generally preferably 0.01 to 5% by mass of the composition.

In addition to the above-mentioned components, each treatment agent may contain appropriate amounts of other arbitrary components that can be normally used in permanent waving compositions, if necessary.

Examples of other optional ingredients include: water, humectants (e.g., propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, etc.); water-soluble polymer compounds (e.g., methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, etc.); cationic polymer compounds (e.g., copolymer of methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium salt and polyvinylpyrrolidone, etc.); water-soluble silicone; nonionic surfactant (e.g., polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, etc.); amphoteric surfactant agents (e.g., 2-alkyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine, trialkylaminoacetic acid betaine, etc.); penetrants (e.g., urea, alkylurea, benzyl alcohol, monoethylene oxide benzyl ether, etc.) ); Natural extracts of animals and plants; Amino acids; Organic acids (e.g., citric acid, lactic acid, etc.); Inorganic salts (e.g., sodium chloride, potassium chloride, etc.); Fragrances; Preservatives (e.g., parabens, etc.); Sequestering agents (e.g., EDTA-3Na); ultraviolet absorbers (eg, oxybenzone, etc.); dyes, etc.

In addition, the dosage form of each treatment agent is not particularly limited, and may be a non-emulsified preparation or an emulsified preparation (both oil-in-water type and water-in-oil type are possible), liquid preparation, emulsion preparation, cream preparation, etc. can be manufactured according to conventional methods.
In the present invention, hair shaping means permanent waving.
<Test method>
In this example, in order to obtain the effects of the present invention, a hair bundle was subjected to a permanent wave treatment and evaluated.

[Permanent wave processing]
A plurality of hair bundles (one hair bundle weighs 0.7 g and is 20 cm long) were created using chemically undamaged human hair collected from the same person. 2.0 mL each of the reduction treatment agent and the oxidation treatment agent was used.
[Evaluation method]
(a) Molding Effect A practical use test was conducted by 12 expert panelists regarding the shaping effect, mainly using the hair clumps as an index, in the hair bundle after the above-mentioned finishing process. If 6 people felt a clear difference, it was set as ±1. If 9 people felt a clear difference, it was set as ±2. If the difference was in the direction of improvement, it was marked as +, and if it was in the direction of worsening, it was marked as -. .

(b) Hair Damage Using hair bundles obtained by repeating the above steps twice, the stress at break per unit area was measured using a single fiber tensile tester (manufactured by ORIENTEC), and the degree of hair damage was compared. From the obtained values, calculate the stress reduction rate when the value of unpermed hair is taken as 100, and if it is within 0-3%, it is +2, if it is within 3-5%, it is +1, and if it is within 5-8%, it is -1, 8. % or more was set as -2

(c) Dryness The above 12 expert panelists conducted a practical use test for dryness on hair tresses that had undergone finishing treatment. If 6 people felt a clear difference, it was set as ±1. If 9 people felt a clear difference, it was set as ±2. If the difference was in the direction of improvement, it was marked as +, and if it was in the direction of worsening, it was marked as -. .

The present inventors evaluated shaped hair using various treatment methods.
Note that the reduction treatment agent and oxidation treatment agent used in each method are as follows.
Reduction agent mass%
Purified water 87.25
Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride liquid 0.30
Sorbitol liquid 0.50
Edetate disodium 0.05
Hydrolyzed soy protein 0.10
DL-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid sodium solution 0.10
Aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymer emulsion
1.00
Ammonium thioglycolate solution 6.00
DL-cysteine 1.50
Fragrance 0.40
Polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene decyl tetradecyl ether
0.80
Strong ammonia water 2.00

Oxidizing agent Mass%
Purified water 91.1
Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride liquid 0.2
Sodium bromate 6
Monobasic potassium phosphate 0.2
Disodium hydrogen phosphate (crystal) 0.4
Edetosan disodium 0.1
Sodium benzoate 0.1
Polychlorinated dimethylmethylene piperidinium liquid 0.5
Fragrance 0.1
Polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene decyl tetradecyl ether
0.3
Aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymer emulsion
1.00

The results are shown in Table 1.
Table 1

In Table 1 above, all of the comparative examples are general perm methods.
Comparative Example 1 is an example in which no heating step is performed in the pretreatment, and is a very basic permanent wave method (so-called cold perm method). In the wetting process, hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds are broken and rod winding is performed. In this state, a reduction treatment is performed to also cleave the SS bond, and then the reducing agent is removed and an oxidation treatment is performed. The above evaluation was performed based on Comparative Example 1, which is relatively simple.

Further, in Comparative Example 2, after the reduction treatment, heat rod winding (forming/heating process) is performed in an open state, and then an oxidation process is performed. The SS bond is cut by reduction treatment, and molding and heating are performed in this state to perform molding. This is a common digital perm method.
Furthermore, in Comparative Example 3, a heating/drying process is performed after wetting and shaping (heat rod winding). Through this drying process, the hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds that were broken during the wetting process are recombined at the relative position of the cuticle in the molded state, thereby temporarily fixing the molded state. Thereafter, SS bonds are cut and recombined through reduction treatment and oxidation treatment.

Figure 1 shows the measurement results of breaking stress.
From the results shown in Table 1 and FIG. 1, the perming method according to the present invention is comparable to the general digital perming method in terms of shaping effect, and significant improvements in hair damage and dryness are observed.

Claims (3)

a moistening step of keeping the hair to be treated in a moist state;
a shaping step of bringing the wet hair into a predetermined shaping state;
a heating step of heating the hair in the molded state while it is still wet;
a reduction process in which the hair after heat treatment is reduced while still in a molded and wet state;
a reducing agent removal step of washing and removing the reducing agent from the hair that has been subjected to the reduction treatment in a molded and wet state;
an oxidation process in which the hair from which the reducing agent has been removed is oxidized while it is still shaped and wet;
an oxidizing agent removal step of washing and removing the oxidizing agent from the oxidized hair;
a drying step of drying the hair after removing the oxidizing agent;
A perm method characterized by comprising: 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the shaping step includes wrapping hair around a rod;
The perming method further comprises a rod removal step after the oxidation step. 3. The perming method according to claim 1, wherein the hair reduction treatment time is 1 to 5 minutes, and the oxidation treatment time is 1 to 10 minutes.

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