JP6503948B2 - Gel cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a gel-like cosmetic which is easy to fit, has a refreshing feeling of use, is excellent in moisturizing effect, and gives a feeling of gloss to the skin from the next day of use, and imparts suppleness.

The moisturizing effect is the most basic and important function in skin cosmetics. If moisture is insufficient and it dries, skin firmness, gloss and softness will be reduced. Skin firmness, luster, and suppleness are factors that greatly affect the impression of appearance, and when they decrease, they give an “old” impression. Therefore, skin cosmetics which are excellent in moisturizing effect and give firmness, luster and suppleness to the skin have been required.
As a cosmetic that emphasizes the moisturizing effect, various dosage forms such as lotion, milk, cream and gel have been proposed. Among them, gel-like cosmetic is a water-based cosmetic having a smaller amount of oil as compared with emulsified cosmetic such as emulsion and cream, and having a suitable viscosity, and has a fresh and refreshing feeling of use. It has the property of being easy to apply to the skin without dripping.
Distilled water of plant origin as a component to enhance the skin firmness and luster and softness effect of gel-like cosmetics (The remainder obtained by removing essential oil components from the distillate obtained by treating the plant by steam distillation method Several skin cosmetics have been proposed focusing on the aqueous phase component of the following, hereinafter referred to as plant water). For example, cosmetic materials have been proposed which use botanical water such as chamomile, hamamelis, rose family, cypress family, etc. to impart firmness and gloss to the skin. However, although these gel-like cosmetic preparations can impart a freshness and a refreshing feeling, since the skin is hydrophobic, they can not be applied to the skin simply by applying them, and the effect can not be sufficiently obtained, or the effect is felt In order to achieve this, long-term continuous use may have been required.

  On the other hand, there have been attempts to improve the skin familiarity and moisturizing feeling at the time of use by blending amphiphilic substances such as polyhydric alcohols and surfactants. For example, in Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2, the skin familiarity is enhanced by combining a polyhydric alcohol such as 1,3-butylene glycol, and a nonionic surfactant such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan (20EO) monolaurate, and the skin is improved. Cosmetics that impart firmness and gloss are disclosed. However, it was difficult to maintain good feeling in use, such as stickiness, by blending these components. Therefore, it has been desired to provide a cosmetic having an excellent feeling of use while effectively utilizing the effect of plant water.

JP 2004-238299 A JP 2001-220312 A

  An object of the present invention is to provide a gel-like cosmetic which is easy to fit, has a refreshing feeling of use, is excellent in moisturizing effect, and gives a feeling of gloss to the skin from the next day of use and imparts suppleness.

  As a result of intensive studies by the present inventors to solve the above problems, the above problems can be solved by combining a substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid, a specific plant water, a specific water soluble polymer, and water in a predetermined ratio. It has been found that a gel-like cosmetic can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed.

  That is, according to the present invention, (a) 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I]: 0.01 to 0.2% by mass, (b) camellia water: 40 to 99.94 The present invention relates to a gel-like cosmetic containing, by mass, (c) a polyacrylic acid-based water-soluble polymer: 0.05 to 1.2% by mass, (d) water.

  The gel-like cosmetic composition of the present invention is quick to fit, has a refreshing feeling of use, is excellent in moisturizing effect, and gives a glossy feeling to the skin from the next day of use, and is excellent in the effect of imparting suppleness.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described.
The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention contains the following components (a) to (d).

[(A) 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I]]
The component (a) used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I]. Hereinafter, "1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid" is also described as "substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid".
In formula [I], R is an acyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably an acyl group derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Examples of fatty acids include saturated fatty acids such as capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, etc. Unsaturated fatty acids, and mixtures of these fatty acids. As a mixture of fatty acids, coconut oil fatty acid, palm kernel oil fatty acid, beef tallow fatty acid, hardened beef tallow fatty acid, soybean phospholipid derived fatty acid, egg yolk phospholipid derived fatty acid can be mentioned. Among them, preferred are soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acids and egg yolk phospholipid-derived fatty acids, and more preferable are soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acids.
In addition, 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention can be used with no problem even in the form of sodium salt or potassium salt depending on the pH of the composition.

  Examples of the method for producing substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid include a method in which lysophosphatidylcholine is treated with phospholipase D by an enzyme, a method in which it is prepared by chemical synthesis (see JP-A-6-228169 etc.) and the like.

Further, the purity and the form of the substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid used for the skin cosmetic of the present invention are not particularly limited. For example, pure ones, ones containing an excipient, ones in liquid form, and ones in powder form can be used. Specifically, a powder containing 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid obtained by lyophilization using cyclodextrin as an excipient can be mentioned. According to this lyophilization method, it is possible to make the lipid easy-to-handle with an excipient.
In addition, 1 type or 2 types or more can be used for substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid.

  The 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid can be obtained as "CyPA-ET" or "CyPA-PW" manufactured by NOF Corporation. "CyPA-ET" and "CyPA-PW" each contain 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid which is an acyl group of soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acid. The fatty acid composition of soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acid is 20.4% by mass of palmitic acid, 3.2% by mass of stearic acid, 11.3% by mass of oleic acid, 57.6% by mass of linoleic acid, 6.1% by mass of linolenic acid, The other content is 1.4% by mass.

  The content of the component (a) in the gel cosmetic of the present invention is 0.01 to 0.2 mass%, preferably 0.05 to 0.15 mass%, more preferably the total amount of the gel cosmetic. Is 0.07 to 0.12% by mass. If the amount is less than 0.01% by mass, the effect of imparting the conformability to the skin may be reduced. If the amount is more than 0.2% by mass, a refreshing feeling may not be obtained.

[(B) camellia water]
The component (b) used in the present invention can be obtained, for example, by the following production method. The seeds or leaves of camellia (Camellia japonica) belonging to the camellia genus Camellia are put into 200 to 600 times weight of ion exchange water and treated at 60 to 90 ° C. for 2 to 4 hours. The plant body is removed using a filter cloth or the like, and the volatile component generated when heating the residual liquid at 60 to 90 ° C. is cooled and recovered by a cooling kiln or the like to obtain an aqueous phase portion obtained as camellia water.
The component (b) used by this invention can also be obtained by the steam distillation method which makes a plant body contact water vapor | steam and condenses a volatile component besides the said method.

Various sites (seeds and leaves) may be used fresh without particular pretreatment, but they are produced after drying at 40 to 70 ° C. for 12 to 48 hours from the viewpoint of stabilization of color tone and the content of the components. It is preferable to use the The shapes of various sites (seeds and leaves) are not particularly limited, but it is preferable from the viewpoint of extraction efficiency to use crushed ones. Also, a mixture of seeds and leaves may be used after being crushed.
The obtained camellia water can be used as it is, but if necessary, treatments such as filtration, deodorization and decolorization may be added. An activated carbon column or the like may be used as a deodorizing / decoloring treatment means, and a generally applied ordinary means may be selected arbitrarily.
In addition, parabens such as methyl paraben and propyl paraben can be added to the camellia water used in the present invention as an antiseptic / antifungal agent as needed.

  The content of the component (b) in the gel cosmetic of the present invention is 40 to 99.94 mass%, preferably 45 to 80 mass%, and more preferably 50 to 75 mass% of the total amount of the gel cosmetic. It is. If it is less than 40% by mass, the moisturizing effect and the skin of the next day have a glossy feeling, and the effect of imparting suppleness is not sufficiently obtained.

[(C) polyacrylic acid water-soluble polymer]
The component (c) used in the present invention is (c-1) poly (meth) acrylic acid, (c-2) (meth) acrylic acid- (meth) acrylic acid alkyl copolymer, (c-3) acrylic acid It is a polyacrylic acid-based water-soluble polymer such as acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer.
These water-soluble polymer compounds can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  (C-1): A poly (meth) acrylic acid is preferably a carboxyvinyl polymer which is a crosslinked polyacrylic acid obtained by crosslinking a polymer containing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid as a constituent monomer with an allyl group. Specifically, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 981 (all, manufactured by Lubrizol Advanced Materials), Sinteren (Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.), AQUPEC HV-501E (Sumitomo Seika Co., Ltd.) Commercial products such as) can be used.

(C-2): (meth) acrylic acid- (meth) acrylic acid alkyl copolymer is a copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid and alkyl (meth) acrylate. Although carbon number of an alkyl group is 1-30 here, 8-30 are preferable. Among these, acrylic acid / methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer is preferable, and acrylic acid / methacrylic acid C10-30 alkyl copolymer is more preferable.
Specifically, commercially available products such as Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol 1382, Pemulen TR-1 (manufactured by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) can be used.

  (C-3): Examples of acrylic acid / acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer and the like include hydroxyethyl acrylic acid / acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer, polyacrylamide, sodium acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer, acrylamide / acryloyl dimethyl acid Examples include sodium taurine copolymer and the like. Specifically, SIMULGEL NS as a product containing hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurine copolymer as a commercial product, SIMULGEL EG or SIMULGEL EPG as a product containing sodium acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer Commercially available products (such as those manufactured by SEPPIC) can be used.

  These polyacrylic acid water-soluble polymers may be salts. Examples of salts of polyacrylic acid-based water-soluble polymers include alkali metals such as sodium and potassium; ammonium; ammonium derived from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine; basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine And salt. These salts are obtained by neutralization of the above-mentioned polymer and the above-mentioned base.

  In the composition of the present invention, the poly (meth) acrylic acid and / or the (meth) acrylic acid- (meth) acrylic acid alkyl copolymer and the acrylic acid / acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer are used in combination at a specific ratio. However, it can be expected that the dispersibility and stability of the low water-soluble component (a) to the aqueous base material (b) can be expected, and it is preferable from the viewpoint of the effect of giving gloss to the skin from the day after use. Regarding the mixing ratio, the ratio of the amount of (c-1) or (c-2) to the amount of (c-3), that is, (c-1) / (c-3) or (c-2) / ( c-3) is preferably 1 to 3, more preferably 1.5 to 2.5.

  The content of the component (c) in the gel cosmetic of the present invention is 0.05 to 1.2% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by mass, and more preferably in the total amount of the gel cosmetic. Is 0.5 to 0.7% by mass. If the amount is less than 0.05% by mass, a stable gel cosmetic may not be prepared. If the amount is more than 1.2% by mass, a refreshing feeling of use can not be obtained, and the usability also decreases.

The gel cosmetic composition of the present invention contains the balance of (d) water in addition to the above components (a) to (c) such that the total amount of (a) to (d) components is 100% by mass. To be included as The content of the component (d) is 0 to 59.94% by mass, preferably 20 to 55% by mass, and more preferably 25 to 50% by mass. The gel cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by a conventional method, but it is preferable to mix the components (a) and (b) and the component (c) with water and then mix them. .
In addition, other components commonly used in cosmetics can be blended with the gel cosmetic of the present invention as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be more specifically described by way of examples and comparative examples. In addition, the following "%" means "mass%."

[Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3]
As a gel cosmetic, the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared according to a usual method, and evaluated by the following method. The results are shown in Table 1. Each composition was adjusted to around pH 5.5 with potassium hydroxide.

In addition, the symbol in a table shows the following goods. All figures in the table are described as the corresponding component concentration in each product.
※ 1: NOF Corporation “CyPA-PW”: powder containing 50% by mass of 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid which is an acyl group of soybean phospholipid derived fatty acid and 50% by mass of cyclodextrin.
※ 2: Tsubaki water Tsubaki water was manufactured by the following method. The camellia seeds and leaves were dried at 60 ° C. for 24 hours, crushed, and then poured into 400 times weight of deionized water. After treating at 80 ° C. for 2 hours, the plant body was removed using a filter cloth, and the volatile matter generated when the residual liquid was heated at 70 ° C. was cooled by a cooling kiln or the like to obtain camelinia water.
* 3: “AQUPEC HV-501ER” (manufactured by Sumitomo Seika Co., Ltd.) (alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer) (0.5% aqueous solution (pH = 5.5) viscosity 140 Pa · s)
* 4: “AQUPEC H V-505E” (Sumitomo Seika Co., Ltd.) (Carboxy Vinyl Polymer) (0.5% aqueous solution (pH = 5.5) Viscosity 190 Pa · s)
* 5: The numbers in “SIMULGEL NS” (manufactured by SEPPIC) in Table 1 represent the content as a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurine contained in “SIMULGEL NS”.
※ 6: "Nonion OT-80" (made by NOF Corporation)
* 7: "HEC Daicel SE 900" (manufactured by Daicel Chemical Industries, Ltd.)

(1) Suitability to the skin Twenty men and women (30 to 48 years old) were used as panelists, and after washing their face, the feel of the skin when the above cosmetic (about 2 g) was applied was evaluated according to the following criteria.
Two points: I felt that the familiarity with the skin was good.
1 point: I felt that the familiarity with the skin was somewhat good.
0 point: I felt that I was not familiar with the skin.
The total value of 20 persons was determined and judged based on the following criteria, and the results are shown in Table 1.
◎: A total score of 35 or more: A cosmetic with very good skin compatibility.
○: The total score is 25 or more and less than 35: The cosmetic has good skin compatibility.
:: 15 points or more and less than 25 points in total: A cosmetic composition with slightly better conformability to the skin.
X: Less than 15 points: A cosmetic which is not well adapted to the skin.

(2) Refreshing feeling of use The panelists were 20 men and women (30 to 48 years old), and after washing their face, the cosmetic (approx. 2 g) was applied, and after 10 minutes, the skin feel was evaluated according to the following criteria. did.
2 points: I felt that my skin was refreshing.
1 point: I felt that my skin was somewhat sticky but refreshing.
0 point: I felt that my skin was not dry and sticky.
The total value of 20 persons was determined and judged based on the following criteria, and the results are shown in Table 1.
◎: A total score of 35 points or more: A cosmetic with a very refreshing feeling of use.
○: A total score of 25 or more and less than 35: A cosmetic with a refreshing feeling of use.
Δ: 15 points or more and less than 25 points in total: A cosmetic with a slightly refreshing feeling of use.
X: Less than 15 points: It is a cosmetic that feels sticky without feeling refreshed.

(3) Moisturizing effect Twenty males and females (30 to 48 years old) were used as panelists, and after washing their face, the cosmetic (about 2 g) was applied, and the feel of the skin after 10 minutes was evaluated according to the following criteria.
2 points: I felt that the moisturizing effect is high.
1 point: I felt that the moisturizing effect was somewhat high.
0 point: I felt that the moisturizing effect was low.
The total value of 20 persons was determined and judged based on the following criteria, and the results are shown in Table 1.
◎: 35 or more points in total: It is a cosmetic with a very high moisturizing effect.
○: A total score of 25 or more and less than 35: A cosmetic with a high moisturizing effect.
Δ: The total score is 15 or more and less than 25: A cosmetic with a slightly high moisturizing effect.
X: Less than 15 points: A cosmetic with a low moisturizing effect.

(4) A sense of gloss on the next morning Twenty women (30 to 48 years old) were used as panelists, and the above cosmetic was applied to all faces after face washing in the evening, and the condition of the skin before face washing the next morning was evaluated according to the following criteria did.
2 points: I felt that the skin had a shiny feeling.
1 point: I felt that the skin had a slight gloss.
0 point: I felt that there was no gloss on the skin.
The total value of 20 persons was determined and judged based on the following criteria, and the results are shown in Table 1.
◎: A total score of 35 points or more: A cosmetic that gives a very glossy feeling.
○: A total score of 25 or more and less than 35: A cosmetic that gives a feeling of gloss.
Δ: The total score is 15 or more and less than 25: A cosmetic that gives a slight gloss.
X: Less than 15 points: A cosmetic that does not give a feeling of gloss.

(5) Softness of the skin Twenty women (30 to 48 years old) were the panelists, and the above cosmetic was applied twice a day after washing in the morning and evening for 2 weeks on all faces, and in the morning two weeks later Before applying the cosmetic, the panelists evaluated the softness of the skin as follows.
2 points: When you feel that the softness of the skin has obviously improved.
1 point: If you feel that the skin has been slightly improved.
0 point: When it feels that there is no change in the suppleness of the skin or it has worsened.
The total score of 20 persons was determined, and judged according to the following criteria.
◎: A total score of 35 points or more: A cosmetic which strongly imparts suppleness to the skin.
○: A total score of 25 or more and less than 35: A cosmetic which gives the skin a softness.
Δ: The total score is 15 or more and less than 25: A cosmetic which gives the skin a little softness.
X: The total score is less than 15 points: It is a cosmetic which does not give the skin a softness.

  According to the results of Examples 1 to 5 shown in Table 1, the gel cosmetic of the present invention is all familiar and quick to use, while a sufficient moisturizing effect can be obtained with a refreshing feeling of use, and the next morning's skin feels shiny. It turned out that it gives the skin a suppleness.

On the other hand, sufficient performance is not obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Specifically, in Comparative Example 1, the component (a) is not contained, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) is contained. As a result, stickiness occurred and the refreshing feeling of use became insufficient.
In Comparative Example 2, the component (b) is not contained, and the moisturizing effect and the effect of imparting pliability to the skin are insufficient, and the glossy feeling of the next morning is not obtained.
In Comparative Example 3, the component (c) is not blended, but hydroxyethyl cellulose is blended, and the refreshing feeling of use becomes insufficient, the disintegration of the gel is significantly deteriorated, and the conformability to the skin is not good. It was enough.

Claims (1)

The gel-like cosmetics containing the following (a)-(d) component.
(A) 1-Acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I]: 0.01 to 0.2% by mass
(B) Camellia water: 40 to 99.94% by mass
(C) Polyacrylic acid water-soluble polymer: 0.05 to 1.2% by mass
(D) Water