JP6336815B2 - Creation method for creating sewing control data - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a creation method for creating sewing control data for executing a sewing program. Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a sewing machine operating method for generating a seam based on the created sewing control data and a sewing machine for carrying out this type of method.

  A corresponding sewing machine is known from US Pat. An operating method for a sewing machine for joining two sewn parts is known from US Pat.

European Patent Application No. 1897984A2 German Patent No. 19920350C1

  The object of the present invention is to improve the operation method for this kind of sewing machine and, in particular, the preparation method for the sewing control data for executing the sewing program as follows: It is an improvement so that the seams can be sewn freely and as simply as possible so that different sewing parameters can be used.

  According to the present invention, this problem is solved by a production method having the configuration described in claim 1.

According to the present invention, by assigning parameter values depending on giving the designated stitch positions in advance, the parameter values are set as follows independently of actually dividing the stitches into a plurality of stitch portions. In other words, by assigning a parameter value, it is possible to execute a seam that matches the process with the parameter value optimally assigned within a predetermined tolerance range. The assigned sewing parameter value is obtained from the designated sewing parameter value of at least one designated stitch position on the stitch portion currently considered. If a plurality of designated stitch positions are on the same stitch portion, the assigned sewing parameter value for the stitch portion is obtained from a combination of the plurality of designated stitch parameter values for these designated stitch positions . A combination is a mathematical operation, such as addition or formation of an average value. According to the present invention, providing the designated seam position independently of the division of the seam into the seam part has an advantage that the seam can be divided into various seam parts individually. Therefore, the seam can be divided according to the operator's preference, nevertheless the desired sewing result is achieved within a predetermined tolerance limit range or a presettable tolerance limit range. The sewing parameter is a gradient value (Gradierwert), but other parameters such as thread tension value, waveform applied value (Kraueselwert), or presettable feed arc, i.e., presettable arc radius of the seam, It may be an arc radius value. The designated sewing parameter value can be designated as an experience value. That is, the designated sewing parameter value to be designated can involve a sewing process and / or a calibration sewing sequence in a preliminary stage. When the designated sewing parameter value is designated , the results of creating the sewing control data with various reference clothing sizes can be cited. In that case, the non-linearity regarding the dependence of a series of garment sizes on the sewing parameters can also be considered. In this way, the designated sewing parameter value to be designated can be optimized.

The provision of the plurality of designated sewing positions according to claim 2 can be performed depending on the complexity of a desired stitch result. Advantageously, in stitch areas where the sewing parameters are expected to change relatively strongly, a greater density of designated stitch positions is provided than in areas where greater changes are not expected.

By specifying a plurality of the designated sewing parameter value to one and the same specified stitch position of according claim 3, it is possible to perform complex seam. By specifying the various specified sewing parameter values can, depending on the purpose, to control the change of various sewing parameters along the seam. In this case, changes in various parameters can be set independently of each other. For example, the waveform imparting value can be changed while one seam is changing, whereas the arc radius value can be kept constant, for example, or vice versa.

  When dividing the seam according to claim 4, no special knowledge is required for the operator. The operator simply sews the seam by teach-in sewing and confirms each seam portion. As a result, the stitch division can be visually recognized and processed to control the sewing machine. When the division is performed, the next operation sewing is performed by automatic switching of the sewing parameters when the stitch portions are changed according to the division performed.

  The sewing distance detection according to claim 5 can be performed by measuring the respective sewing distances, and this is performed by counting stitches having a predetermined stitch length or, for example, by an optical method. be able to. The sewing reference point may coincide with the sewing start point at which the seam starts to be sewn.

  In the case of the application described in claim 6, it is considered that the sewing start point does not necessarily coincide with the sewing reference point. The sewing distance between the sewing reference point and the sewing start point can be determined by, for example, landing the sewing start point in the sewing machine control unit. This input can be performed, for example, by lightly touching one point on the illustrated seam on the display of the sewing machine.

  The seam split according to claim 7 can advantageously be automated. The basic assignment of one sewing parameter to each stitch portion may be performed only for the basic size. In this case, for a clothing size other than the basic size, 1 in other clothing sizes other than the basic size is used. Assignment of sewing parameters to the respective seam portions of the two seams and, in some cases, size change are automated.

The actuating method according to claim 8, wherein the sewing process is simplified by automatically switching at least one sewing parameter when changing between two consecutive parameter seam portions defined by a preparatory division step. Become. The operator does not need to manually switch the sewing parameters when changing between the two seam portions, and this is done automatically. For the seam portion, it is possible to specify a property that is appropriately defined in advance. The sewing parameter assigned in each case may be a gradation value and / or an arc radius value and / or a waveform imparting value, or may be another parameter such as a thread tension.

  Another object of the present invention is to provide a sewing machine for carrying out the method according to the invention. According to the present invention, this other problem is solved by a sewing machine having the configuration described in claim 9.

  This new advantage corresponds to the advantages mentioned in the context of the control data generation method according to the invention and the operation method according to the invention. The current sewing position in each case can be performed by, for example, counting stitches having a predetermined stitch length using the detection module, or alternatively, the actual stitch position can be optically determined. This can be done by detecting automatically.

  With the memory module according to the tenth aspect, the sewing data to which the sewing data can be neatly allocated can be changed by, for example, only one switching memory module.

Next, some embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 4 is a perspective view of a sewing machine for sewing together a portion of a sewing product having an edge contour portion curved along a seam, and an arm element is removed to make it easy to see details inside. It is a figure which shows two sewn product parts sewn together for the example of the jacket part and the sleeve part sewn on this. It is a figure which shows a part of sleeve hole of the jacket sewing part for demonstrating the operation seam part and radial direction seam part along the joint seam of a jacket part and the sleeve part attached to this. It is the figure of the cuff edge part corresponding to FIG. 3 of the outer garment sewn product part which changed the partial gradient value between different parameter seam parts, respectively. To illustrate the parameter seam part for the partial gradient value along the joint seam between the jacket part and the attached sleeve part, the sleeve hole part of the jacket sewn part is shown in the joint seam for the right sleeve. 3, the sewing start point coincides with the parameter stitch portion sewing reference point. FIG. 5 is a view showing the situation with respect to the joint seam of the left sleeve in correspondence with FIG. FIG. 7 is a diagram showing the jacket portion of FIG. 6, in which the joint seam is sewn to the left sleeve at the sewing start point displaced by 50% of the total length of the joint seam around the sleeve hole in the circumferential direction with respect to the sewing reference point. Show. FIG. 7 is a diagram showing the jacket portion of FIG. 6, in which another situation is shown in which the joint seam is sewn to the left sleeve at the sewing start point displaced by 50% of the total length of the joint seam around the sleeve hole in the circumferential direction with respect to the sewing reference point. Is illustrated. In the figure corresponding to FIG. 3, the right sleeve is taken as an example, and is schematically illustrated in order to explain the sewing parameter values when the sleeve seam is optimized. It is a figure which shows one example which divides | segments the sleeve seam of FIG. 9, It is a figure explaining also the sewing parameter allocated to this. It is a figure which shows the other example which divides | segments the sleeve seam of FIG. 9, It is a figure explaining also the sewing parameter allocated to this. It is a figure which shows the other example which divides | segments the sleeve seam of FIG. 9, It is a figure explaining also the sewing parameter allocated to this. In the figure corresponding to FIG. 3, the other embodiment which divides | segments a sleeve seam into several parameter seam parts with respect to the right sleeve is shown. In the figure corresponding to FIG. 13, the situation at the time of dividing | segmenting a sleeve seam into several parameter seam parts with respect to the left sleeve is shown.

  The sewing machine 1 has an upper arm 2, a vertical stand 3, and a lower arm. The lower arm is usually called the substrate 4. The substrate 4 has a post (column) 5 protruding upward, and therefore the sewing machine 1 is also called a post bed sewing machine. As an alternative, the sewing machine 1 may be implemented as a flat bed sewing machine. An upper shaft (not shown in detail) is rotatably supported in the arm 2. The upper shaft is driven, and thus the main sewing elements of the sewing machine 1 are driven via a drive motor 6 mounted in the substrate 4 and a belt drive not shown in detail in the drawing. A needle bar which is supported in the vertical direction in the upper shaft 2 and carries a needle at the lower end via the upper shaft and the crank drive and which is not shown in detail in the drawing can be driven up and down in the vertical direction. It is. The approximate position of the needle bar is suggested in FIG. Below the needle bar, a looper is rotatably supported in the post 5. A part of the sewn product to be sewn (see the sewn part of FIGS. 2 and 3) forms a top surface of the post 5 and passes through a plate 9 with a puncture hole that protrudes laterally from the post 5 along the sewing direction. And the needle penetrates the plate with the puncture hole in the region of the looper.

  A lower cloth feed assembly 10 and an upper cloth feed assembly 11 are used to advance a part of the sewn product to be sewn together in the sewing direction of the sewing machine 1. These cloth feeding assemblies are described in detail in the above-mentioned Patent Document 1. Using these two fabric feed assemblies 10 and 11, the sewing machine can sew a portion of the sewing product with a curved edge contour along the joint seam, wherein the arc radius of the feed arc relative to the sewing product, That is, the sewing parameters can be set in advance. This point is also described in Patent Document 1.

  FIG. 2 shows the situation before the sewing parts are sewn, taking the outer garment part 12 and the sleeve part 13 as an example. This illustration is very schematic and corresponds to the illustration of FIG.

  The edge contour portions 14 and 15 of the both sewn product portions 12 and 13 have edge contour portions curved along the stitches to be sewn. Unlike what would be expected from the illustration in FIG. 2, the edge contour portions 14, 15 of the edge contour portions 14, 15 that are related to each other along the seam for sewing are a1 / a2, b1 / b2, c1 / c2. , D1 / d2. . . Do not necessarily have the same arc radius, but generally have different arc radii. These edge contour portions set a part of the joint seam. These parts of the joint seam are hereinafter also referred to as parameter seam parts.

  When the sewing parts 12 and 13 are sewn, the edge contour parts a1 / a2,. . . A series of parameter stitches corresponding to is created. These parameter stitches have lengths la1 / la2, lb1 / lb2, lc1 / lc2, ld1 / ld2,. . . have. The parameter seam portions la1 and la2, lb1 and lb2,. . Are generally not the same length. Usually, for example, the parameter seam portions a2, b2,. . Are the corresponding parameter seam portions a1, b1,. . . Longer than.

  The lengths la1, lb1, lc1, ld1. . . Are usually different from each other. This is the lengths la2, lb2,. . . The same applies to.

  FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the state of the seam portion in the outer garment portion 12 in considerable detail. Shown is the outer garment portion 12 in the region of the right sleeve hole 16. A joint seam for a sleeve portion (not shown) is sewn along the working seam portion. FIG. 3 shows the working seam portions b1, c1, e1, f1, h1, and i1 among the working seam portions. The lengths of these working seams vary depending on the operator's personal sewing technique. The working seam portion may coincide with the parameter seam portion described above in connection with FIG. But this is not necessarily compulsory. The working seam portion is basically independent of the parameter seam portion.

  The joint seam between the outer garment portion 12 and the sleeve portion 13 (not shown) starts at a stitch start point 17. Thereafter, the joint seam is sewn clockwise along the sewing direction 18 in FIG. The connecting seams have different working seam portions a1, b1,. . . Is divided into a series of parameter seam portions in the form of radial seam portions. Each radial stitch portion is assigned an arc radius value with respect to the arc radius of the feed arc that can be set by the sewing machine 1. Shown in FIG. 3 is only the radial seam portion to which a feed arc having an infinite curvature is assigned. A radial seam portion in which a feed arc is not set, that is, a seam portion extending straight using the sewing machine 1 without being influenced by the operator is not shown.

  A series of radial seam portions 19, 20, 21, and 22 having an arc radius value for setting a feed arc exist in the extension portion of the joint seam. The arc radius values of the radial seam portions 19 and 22 then produce a feed arc with a larger radius, i.e. a feed arc with a small curvature. The radial seam portions 20, 21 between the radial seam portions 19 and 22 have an arc radius value that produces a feed arc with a smaller arc radius, ie a more strongly curved feed arc.

  Thus, the series of arc radius values along the joint seam means that the arc radius value in the first region of the joint seam extension, that is, the arc radius value up to the radial seam portion 20 is “ It is like changing to the value of a “small (strongly curved) feed arc”. A series of radial seam portions exists from the radial seam portion 21, and in these radial seam portions, the arc radius value in the last region of the extension portion of the joint seam is “larger (less strongly curved). Not) “Feed arc”.

There is a seam portion 23 with an arc radius value of “no feed arc” between the two radial seam portions 20, 21 of the arc radius value “smaller feed arc”, that is, strongly curved.
The seam portion of the joint seam between the seam point 17 and the radial seam portion 19 overlaps the working seam portions aa1 and b1. The radial seam portion 19 overlaps the working seam portions b1 and c1. The radial seam portion 20 overlaps the working seam portions c1 and d1. The radial seam portion between the two radial seam portions 20 and 21, ie, the seam portion 23, overlaps the working seam portions e1, f1. The radial seam portion 21 overlaps the working seam portions f1, g1, and h1. The radial seam portion 22 overlaps the working seam portions h1 and i1. The radial seam part between the radial seam part 2 and the remaining part of the joint seam up to the stitching point 17 is the working seam part i1, and the seam starting point which is the terminal of the seam part i1 and the closed joint seam. 17 overlaps with the working seam portion between the two.

  The sewing machine 1 has a control device 24 schematically shown in FIG. The control device 24 has a memory module 25 for storing the lengths of the radial seam portions 19, 20, 21, 22 and their assigned arc radius values. The control device 24 further includes a detection module 26 for detecting an actual sewing position within the joint seam. Such detection can be performed by counting stitches along the joint seam at a known stitch length. As an alternative, the actual sewing position can also be detected optically, for example via the optical sensor 27 suggested in FIG.

Other memory units 28 (which may alternatively be incorporated into the memory module 25) are provided with operating seam portions a1, b1,. . . And a2, b2. . . Is used to store the length (1 × 1, 1 × 2). In a suitable memory unit, the working seam parts a1 / a2, b1 / b2,. . . The gathering value obtained from the ratio of the lengths is stored. The sewing machine 1, in addition to setting the feed arcs, wherein it is possible to set the gathering ring values such as described in Patent Document 1.

When the sewing machine 1 is operated, the following method is performed.
First, the joint seam is divided into a plurality of radial seam parts, for example, radial seam parts 19, 20, 23, 21, 22. Next, an arc radius value is assigned to each radial seam portion. In the embodiment of FIG. 3, an arc radius value “large arc radius, ie, a small curvature” is assigned to the radial seam portions 19 and 22 and an arc radius value “arc radius with a smaller radius value, ie, a greater curvature” is assigned. Assign to radial seam portions 20 and 21. The arc radius value “no feed arc” is assigned to the other radial stitches of the feed stitch. Corresponding data is stored in the memories 25 and 28 of the control device 24.

  Next, the working seam portions a1 / a2, b1 / b2,. . . The sewing parts 12 and 13 are sewn along At the time of replacement of continuous operating seam portions, for example, a1 / a2 and b1 / b2, sewing operation parameters, for example, the waveform application values already described are switched. This switching is performed using the switching module 29 of the control device 24.

  At the start of sewing, that is, with the stitch start point 17 as a starting point, the sewing parts 12 and 13 are sewn with a predetermined starting arc radius value, in this example, with an arc radius value of “no feed arc”. When changing two continuous working seam portions, for example, when changing the working seam portions a1 / a2 and b1 / b2, one arc radius value that is deviated from the actually set arc radius value is assigned to one arc radius value. As long as this is done at the radial seam portion, the arc radius value is automatically switched to the new arc radius value at this radial seam portion. Since the alternation of the seam portions a1 / a2 and b1 / b2 has already taken place before the start of the first radial seam portion 19 along the joint seam, no alternation of the arc radius values has yet been made here.

  When the working seam portions b1 / b2 and c1 / c2 are switched, the arc radius value “no feed arc” is automatically switched to the arc radius value “large feed arc”. This automatic switching is performed because a transition is made between the working seam parts b1 / b2 and c1 / c2 in the radial seam part 19. Correspondingly, the arc portion value also changes to the value “small feed arc” when shifting between the working seam portions c1 / c2 and d1 / d2. This is because this transition takes place at the radial seam portion 20. The arc radius value is not changed during the transition between the working seam portions d1 / d2 and e1 / e2. This is because this transition also takes place at the radial seam portion 20.

  The arc radius value is changed to the value “without feed arc” also when the operating stitch portions e1 / e2 and f1 / f2 are changed. This is because this replacement is performed at the seam portion 23. In the alternative seam program, i.e. the length of the working seam part e1 / e2 completely covers the seam part 23, so that the end of this alternative working seam part e1 / e2 is also in the radial seam part 21 In such a case, the arc radius value is not changed in this case.

  In the case of the illustrated embodiment, the shift from the value “no feed arc” to the value “small arc feed” takes place during the transition of the working seam portions f1 / f2 and g1 / g2.

  In the embodiment shown in FIG. 3, the next automatic switching of the arc radius value is performed when the working stitch portions h1 / h2 and i1 / i2 are changed, that is, when the arc radius value is changed to the “large feed arc”. Done.

  The arc radius value is also changed from the value “larger feed arc” to the value “no feed arc” at the time of alternation between the actuated stitch portion i1 and the last actuated stitch portion on the stitch start point 17 side.

  The arc radius value is aligned with the edge contour of the sewn product portion (usually the sleeve portion 13) on the upper side at the time of sewing as follows, that is, using the feed arc that is set each time, The alignment is such that the difference in edge contour between the two sewn parts 12, 13 at the working seam part x1 / x2 is taken into account.

  The division of the joint seam into radial seam parts is performed depending on the predetermined garment size to be sewn and / or depending on the position of the seam starting point 17.

  The sewing machine 1 further includes a calculation module 30 for calculating sewing control data. The calculation control data is assigned to a stitch portion generated by dividing one stitch in advance, and this point will be described in detail below.

  The sewing machine 1 depends on the sewing control data generated and calculated for creating a legal program that depends on the respective clothing size, and one seam, for example as described above, has passed while the sewing prowl has passed. The joint seam has a plurality of continuous seam portions a1, b1,. . It is in a position to be sewn. Sewing parameters change between a plurality of seam portions, for example, a partial gradient value changes. The replacement of the sewing parameters is performed by the continuous seam portions a1, b1,. . . It can be done automatically at the time of replacement.

  Table 1 below shows a set of examples of this type of stitch control parameter. In the following, it is assumed that the joint stitch is divided into five parameter stitch portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2. It is also possible to divide the parameter seam portion into other quantities, for example, it is possible to divide into 5 to 11 seam portions. Table 1a shows various parameter seam portions a1 / a2, b1 / b2,. . . The partial gradient value or extension component for e1 / e2 and the total gradient value are shown. The first row of Table 1a shows the partial gradient value of each parameter stitch portion in relation to the length of this working stitch portion. The second row of Table 1a shows partial gradient values in relation to the total length of the joint seam, i.e. all parameter seam parts a1 / a2, b1 / b2,. . . This is shown in relation to the sum of the lengths of e1 / e2. In the partial gradation values shown in the last row of Table 1a, these partial gradation values have exactly each other a ratio to the attached length of the parameter seam portion. That is, 0.38% / 3.4% = 50 mm / 450 mm is applied to the parameter stitch portion a1 / a2. Here, the stitch length for the clothing size G4 is illustrated. The sum of all partial gradient values gives the total gradient value.

  In general, the partial gradient value is different from the total gradient value related to the total length of the joint seam with respect to the length of each parameter seam portion.

Table 1b shows the garment size G _X in the first column indicates the length of from e1 / e2 each parameter seam portion a1 / a2 is not in the following sequence. Table 1b shows the total length of the joint seams in the penultimate column as well, depending on the garment size, respectively. The right of the last column of Table 1b, the total stitch length size increase rate between the garment size G _X consecutive, that is, the total graduation Activation value.

  The sewing control data described in Table 1a and Table 1b is generated as follows. First select the base size. In this example, the clothing size G4 is selected. Basically, any other clothing size may be selected as the base size. Next, the lengths of the respective parameter stitch portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are generated for the base size G4, that is, in this example, 50 mm, 120 mm, 20 mm, 100 mm, 160 mm, and 450 mm are generated.

  Next, all gradient values are set. In this example, a value of 3.4% is set. Based on this, sewing control data and particularly the lengths of the parameter stitches are generated for the other garment sizes G1 to G3 and G5 to G10. In the example of Table 1, the length of each parameter stitch portion a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 is calculated depending on the gradient value of 3.4%. The length is displayed in mm with the decimal part omitted. In the example of Table 1, the extension components related to the lengths of the respective parameter seam portions are equal to the total gradient value, that is, 3.4%. That is, all parameter seam portions are extended by the same percentage.

  After setting the base size data of the base size G4 and all the gradient values, all other sewing control data are automatically calculated. The setting of the base size data can be performed by teach-in sewing, or can be performed by manual data input or data input for reading the corresponding base size data, for example. In the case of setting all gradient values, it is possible to refer to past results of generating sewing control data in various reference clothing sizes. In the case of the sewing control data shown in Table 1, the partial gradient value of the parameter stitch portion is equal to the total gradient value component corresponding to the length component of the parameter stitch portion in the entire length of the joint stitch.

  Each parameter stitch portion a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 can further be associated with other sewing parameters. For example, the waveform application value or the additional width value (Mehrweiten-Werte) or other sewing operation parameters as described above. Can also be related. In the modification of the sewing control data, the arc radius value can also be related to the parameter stitches of various clothing sizes. The radial seam portion described above is another example of the parameter seam portion. The parameter seam portion for the arc radius value need not coincide with the parameter seam portion for the partial gradient value with respect to its position and length.

  Another example for generating the sewing control data will be described with reference to Table 2.

Even when the sewing control data shown in Table 2 is generated, by setting the partial gradient value depending on the total gradient value, the stitch portion a1 in the continuous clothing sizes G _X and G _{X + 1} is set. Extend at least some of / a2 to e1 / e2. This is the seam portions b1 / b2, d1 / d2, and e1 / e2 in the example of FIG. The other parameter seam portions a1 / a2, c1 / c2 do not extend in successive garment sizes, i.e. have a constant length of 50 mm or 20 mm. Correspondingly, the parameter seam portions b1 / b2, d1 / d2, e1 / e2 are extended with an extension component that does not correspond to a component in the total length of the joint seam, if necessary.

The total gradient value 3.4% is the parameter seam portion b1 / b2 (extension component 1.05%), d1 / d2 (extension component 0.85%), e1 / e2 (extension component 1.5%). In other words, based on these partial gradient values, an entire seam of one garment size in successive garment sizes G _X , G _{X + 1} is, for example, a garment size G 4 corresponding to the total gradation value. Allocated to change between G5.

  A method of distributing partial gradient values different from those described in Tables 1 and 2 is also possible if this boundary condition is maintained. In extreme cases, the full gradient value can be achieved by simply extending one parameter seam portion. In other extreme cases, a particular partial gradient value may have a negative percentage value, and this negative percentage value is over-compensated by the partial gradient value of the other parameter seam portion.

  In the case of a symmetric piece of clothing, that is, in the case of the left sleeve and the right sleeve corresponding to FIG. 3, sewing control data can be generated independently of each other.

  In FIG. 3, a sleeve hole 16 for the right sleeve portion is shown. An independent parameter stitch portion, a gradient value, a waveform applying value, and an arc radius value can be set for the joint stitch of the left sleeve portion to be attached.

  Another embodiment for generating sewing control data will be described using Table 3 below.

  For garment sizes G1 to G4, the extension components and lengths of the parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are equal to those in Table 2b. For the size G4 and after, other gradient values are adopted, and in this example, all other gradient values are adopted, and in the case of Table 3, it is 3.8%. Depending on the selected clothing size G4, the entire seam changes in subsequent successive clothing sizes that are larger than the selected clothing size G4 by the other total gradient values. At that time, the operation is performed with the partial gradient value of the working stitch portion already described in connection with Table 2a.

  In order to specify the other gradient value, teach-in sewing is performed at the garment size G9. In this example, the clothing size G9 for which teach-in sewing is performed is larger than the selected clothing size G4. Basically, a size different from the size G9 may be adopted as another teach-in garment size different from the base size. In teach-in sewing, the length of the parameter stitches a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 described for the size G9 in the row of Table 3 occurs, that is, the values 50 mm, 150 mm, 20 mm, 122 mm, and 200 mm occur. Correspondingly, a total stitch length L of 542 mm occurs. The total seam length is different for the selected garment size G4 of 450 mm, and the other teach-in garment size G9 is within the range of automatic calculation, with the total seam length change in the middle garment sizes G5 to G8, etc. It is assumed that the total seam length is approximately extended by the same other total gradient values, respectively. This yields another 3.8% total gradient value. Correspondingly, this results in the individual lengths of the parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 for the intermediate sizes G5 to G8 and size G10.

  The setting method for the sewing control data corresponding to Table 3 takes into consideration that after a certain garment size, the working seam portion of the continuous garment size changes more strongly than in the case of a smaller garment size.

  According to the other teach-in sewing at the garment size G9 and the total gradient value resulting from this, and the selected garment size G4 (after this size, other gradient values resulting from other teach-in sewing will be applied) The stitch length shown in Table 3 is automatically generated according to the setting.

  Another embodiment for generating sewing control data will be described with reference to Table 4. In this case as well, description will be given by taking as an example the generation of the partial length of the parameter stitch portion. For garment sizes G1 to G4, the seam length matches the values in Table 2b. The partial gradient values of the individual parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are also consistent with the values described above in connection with Table 2b.

  After the first selected garment size G4, other gradient values are specified instead of the total gradient value 3.4% used so far. In the example of Table 4, all other gradient values are 3.1%. The attached partial gradient value is obtained on the basis of the values for the lengths of the individual parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 obtained during teach-in sewing. The specification of all other gradient values is performed by teach-in sewing with a clothing size G4. From the increase in the total seam length of 493 mm that occurs at that time, that is, from the increase compared to 450 mm in the first selected garment size G4, 3.1% of all the other waveform giving values (this much intermediate) The combined stitches of the clothing sizes G5 and G6 become longer) by automatic calculation. Thereafter, the length of the parameter seam portion in consideration of the partial gradient value is changed by the amount corresponding to the total gradient value. The teach-in garment size G7 is also another selected garment size. For other selected clothing sizes G7 and later, other gradient values are obtained. In the example of Table 4, it is 4.8%. This is done by teach-in sewing with a garment size G10 which produces a total seam length of 568 mm. Again, corresponding to the length of the individual parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 that occur during other teach-in sewing, the corresponding selection grading for each parameter seam inseparable is performed automatically. An association value is set. In consideration of the obtained partial gradient value, the seam length portion is extended with the total gradient value.

  When the sewing program of the sewing machine 1 is operated, sewing control data is first generated corresponding to one of the above-described embodiments. Next, the clothing size to be sewn at the present time is identified, and then both sewn product parts 12 and 13 are sewn using the sewing control data of the identified clothing size. For this reason, the control device 24 receives the sewing control data of the identified clothing size from the memory 25 or 28 and controls the sewing machine in accordance with the sewing position on the joint seam detected via the detection module 26. The switching module 29 switches according to the sewing position at which the sewing operation parameter is detected, and correspondingly, the sewing control data assigned to this sewing position is converted into two consecutive parameter stitch portions a1 / a2 to e1 as described above. Switch when / e2 is changed.

One of the two sewn parts sewn by the above-described generation of the sewing control data may be an edge band. This will be described below using the example of FIG. Here, an outer garment sewn product portion is shown as the sewn product portion 12, and an edge band is shown as the sewn product portion 13. The joint seam 32 between the two sewn parts 12 and 13 is arranged between the two seam boundary points 17a and 17b, and these seam boundary points are the seam starting end or seam end depending on the sewing direction. Depending on whether the joint seam 32 is sewn to the right side of the outer garment or the left side of the outer garment, the joint seam 32 is sewn starting from the seam starting end 17a or starting from the seam end 17b. Two designated stitch positions P1 and P2 are given along the stitches 32 between the stitches 17a and 17b. The stitch length between the stitch boundary point 17a and the adjacent designated stitch position P1 adjacent thereto is 35% of the total length L of the joint stitch 32. Spacing between the two designated stitch positions P1, P2 is 40% of the total length L, the distance between the other stitch boundary point 17b close to the designated seam position P2 Toko specified stitch position P2 is 25% of the total length L It is.

In order to actually sew the edge band 13 corresponding to each garment size Gx of the sewn product portion 12, sewing control data generated by the generation method is used. For this reason, first, teach-in sewing is performed in which the seam 32 is divided into a plurality of seam portions not shown in FIG. The designated stitch positions P1 and P2 are given on the stitches 32 before or after the start of the teach-in sewing. This provision is based on the analysis result of analyzing the seam extension mode optimized according to the experience value in advance, or the size of the seam 32 extension mode optimized by the experience value in various garment sizes. Based on staging. The designated stitch positions P1 and P are given regardless of the division of the stitches 32 into a plurality of stitch portions, for example, performed through teach-in sewing.

In the next step, designated sewing parameter values are assigned to the designated stitch positions P1, P2. In the example of FIG. 4, the designated sewing parameter value is an arc value and / or a gathering value and / or a gradation value. Next, another generation method will be described with an example of specifying a gradient value. The assignment of the gradient value to the designated stitch positions P1 and P2 is based on experience values, that is, how much the length of the stitches 32 changes between the stitch ends 17a and 17b in successive garment sizes. Either based on knowledge or based on a teach-in sewing process in which the joint seam 32 is sewn for various garment sizes. For example, a gradation value of 3% is assigned to the designated stitch position P1, and for example, a gradation value of 4% is assigned to the designated stitch position P2.

In the case of this generation method, it is checked which stitch portion generated when the stitch is divided has at least one designated stitch position. Next, the assigned sewing parameter value, that is, the gradient value in the example described above, is assigned to the stitch portion where the designated stitch positions P1 and P2 are generated at the time of division. This depends on which designated stitch positions P1, P2 are in the stitch portion currently considered. In the example of FIG. 4, the seam portion having the designated seam position P1 obtains a gradient value of 3%, and the seam portion having the designated seam position P2 obtains a gradient value of 4%.

  After the teach-in sewing for dividing the seam into a plurality of seam parts as described at the beginning, the length of the individual seam parts with respect to the teach-in garment size is known. Starting from this point, using the gradient values assigned to the individual seam parts, how long the seam part that occurs during the split has a different garment size than the teach-in garment size Can be determined.

  By using the sewing control data generated in this way, the stitches 32 can be automatically sewn as a series of stitch portions generated at the time of division. As the sewing start point 17, the start point 17a at one end of the seam 32 or the start point 17b at the other end of the seam 32 can be used. As a result, the corresponding order a1, b1c1 or the order c1, b1, a1 The seam can be sewn with.

  As described above, different values of the sewing parameters may be assigned to the seam portion. For example, different partial cumulative values or different additional widths may be assigned.

  Depending on the generation method for the sewing control data, the length percentage of the lengths la1, lb1, lc1 may be different from the percentage values described for the garment size example.

  In the generation method for the sewing control data, each time, starting from the setting of all gradient values (in the example of Table 1 described above, the total gradient value is 3.4%).

  Next, an alternative generation method for sewing control data that can be set without setting all the gradient values will be described. In this case, a first reference clothing size is first selected. For example, the clothing size G4 is selected. Next, sewing control data for this reference garment size G4 is generated. In any case, the sewing control data includes the stitch portions a1,. . . Lengths la1,. . . Is included. The sewing control data can be generated by the first teach-in sewing with the reference garment size G4. In this case, the stitch portion lengths la1,. . . Are stored in the memory module 25.

  Next, another reference clothing size, for example, clothing size G9 is selected. Next, sewing control data for other reference clothing sizes is created. Similarly, the other sewing control data includes at least the lengths la1,. . . It is included. This creation of other sewing control data for the other reference garment size G9 can be done by teach-in sewing, corresponding to what has already been described in connection with the first reference garment size G4. Seam lengths la1,. . In addition to these seam lengths la1,. . . Unlike the creation of sewing control data for the first reference garment size G4 in which the sewing parameters assigned to the first reference garment size G4 can be changed by setting or calculation, the stitch portion is used when creating the sewing control data for other reference garment sizes G9. Length la1,. . . Only need to be created and stored. Seam lengths la1,. . . The other sewing parameters assigned to are not changed when other sewing control data is generated with this other reference garment size G9.

  Next, starting from the sewing control data created for both reference clothing sizes, sewing control data for other clothing sizes is calculated and set for processing by the control device 24. The other clothing sizes are clothing sizes different from the reference clothing sizes G4 and G9. Seam lengths la1,... For these other clothing sizes. . . In addition to (can be calculated and set without setting the percentage value by percentage), basically other sewing parameter values such as the parameter value for the arc radius value, the parameter for the waveform applied value, etc. A value or a parameter value for the yarn tension can be set. However, the seam lengths la1,. . . Setting of other sewing parameter values other than those is not always necessary, and the sewing parameter values may be maintained. Seam portion lengths lb1,. . . If the value 120 mm is obtained in the above example and the value 150 mm is obtained for the other reference clothing size G9, the seam length lb1 for the clothing sizes G5 to G8 in the middle is calculated by equal division. For sizes G5 to G8, the seam portion length lb1 is 126 mm, 132 mm, 138 mm, and 144 mm.

  In this alternative creation method for sewing control data, the sewing control data can also be created for, for example, teach-in sewing for two or more reference garment sizes. When more than one reference garment size is used, the sewing parameter for other garment sizes can be increased by correspondingly increasing the number of control points when calculating and setting the sewing control data for other garment sizes. The accuracy is further improved.

  Next, an example of a creation method for creating sewing control data and creating a sewing program and an example of an operation method for generating one seam will be described with reference to FIGS. The same reference numerals and symbols are used for the components and functions described above in connection with FIGS. 1-4 and Tables 1-4, and will not be described in detail below.

FIG. 5 is a view corresponding to FIG. 3 and shows a right sleeve (not shown in FIG. 5) and an outer garment portion 12 to be sewn. Three designated stitch positions P1, P2, and P3 are designated in total on the stitches for stitching the outer garment portion and the sleeve portion together. In the case of the garment size shown in FIG. 5, starting from the sewing reference point 33 (also the sewing start point 17), the length of the seam between the sewing reference point 33 and the designated seam position P1 is the total length L of the seam. 30%. The stitch length between the designated stitch positions P1 and P2 is 15% of the total length L. The stitch length between the designated stitch positions P2 and P3 is 30% of the total length L. Stitch length between the designated seam position P3 and the stitch reference point 33, as described above in connection with FIG. 4 is 25% of the corresponding the entire length L, one for each of the specified seam positions P1 to P3 of Sewing parameters are assigned. The sewing parameter is a partial gradient value, but may be another sewing parameter, for example, an additional width value, a waveform applying value, or an arc radius value.

  In the embodiment of FIG. 5, the reference point 33 is also the sewing start point 17 at the same time.

In order to create the sewing control data, starting from the sewing start point 17, the seam is divided into a plurality of seam portions in teach-in sewing. As already described in connection with FIG. 4, the sewing parameters corresponding to the designated designated stitch positions P1 to P3 are designated . Next, as described in connection with FIG. 3, the designated sewing parameters are associated with the seam portions that occur when the seams are split, and there is at least one assigned sewing point on these seam portions. This also depends on which designated stitch positions P1 to P3 are present on the seam portion actually taken into consideration generated at the time of division.

In the case of the next automatic operation sewing, a new parameter value in which a sewing parameter is assigned to the next seam portion when changing between two consecutive seam portions, for example, a1 / b1, b1 / c1, c1 / d1 Is automatically switched to. When the designated stitch position P1 is changed to a certain stitch portion, for example , an arc value or a waveform giving value designated for the designated stitch position P1 is adjusted. In this way, it is ensured that sewing is performed in the region of the designated stitch position using the optimum sewing parameters there.

As already explained in connection with FIG. 4, a gradation value can also be designated for the designated stitch position. Next, starting from dividing the seam first into a plurality of seam parts by, for example, teach-in sewing with a basic garment size, using the gradient values assigned to the seam parts for the designated seam positions P1 to P3 The length of the seam portion for other garment sizes can be calculated and stored, and can be called and used when sewing each garment size. In this case, a production process slit as already described in connection with FIG. 2 and Tables 1 to 4 can be used.

  The alternation between the parameter seam portions a1 to d1 is based on detecting the sewing distance that is sewn starting from the sewing reference point 33 at the time of operation sewing, that is, at the time of sewing after the teach-in sewing. Detected. This detection can be performed, for example, by measuring the sewing distance.

  The positions and lengths la1 to l1d of the parameter stitch portions a1 to d1 and the sewing parameters assigned thereto are filed in the memo module 25 of the sewing machine 1.

  The sewing distance is measured using the detection module 26.

  Switching is performed using the switching module 29.

  FIG. 6 shows a situation where the outer garment portion 12 and the left sleeve are stitched together. Here, the sewing is performed in the direction of rotation opposite to the case of sewing the right sleeve portion.

On the seam between the outer garment part 12 and the left sleeve part, three designated seam positions P1, P2, and P3 are also provided in the embodiment of FIG. As is clear from comparison with FIG. 5, these designated stitch positions P1 to P3 on the stitches of FIG. 6 are arranged at the same relative positions as in the example of FIG. This is not mandatory. Any other positioning of the designated stitch positions P1 to P3 is possible. The length of the stitches starting from the sewing reference point 33 to the designated stitch position P3 is 25% of the total length L. The length of the seam between the designated seam positions P3 and P2 is 30% of the total length L. The length of the stitches between the designated stitch positions P2 and P1 is 15% of the total length L, and the length between the designated stitch positions P1 and the sewing reference point 33 is 30% of the total length L.

FIG. 6 also shows a situation where the sewing reference point 33 coincides with the sewing start point 17 at the time of preparation teach-in sewing. After assigning the sewing parameters to the seam portion generated in the teach-in division, the sewing is performed with the automatic program switching as described above with reference to FIG. 5 corresponding to the designated stitch positions P1 to P3.

  A modification example in which the left sleeve is sewn with the outer garment portion 12 in FIG. 6 will be described with reference to FIGS. 7 and 8. The starting point 17 ′ is displaced from the reference point 33 by 50% of the total length L of the seam.

The designated stitch positions P1 to P3 and parameter assignment thereof are unchanged from the reference point 33 in the sewing process of FIGS. The change of the sewing parameters between the seam portions is performed based on detection of the sewing distance between the sewing reference point 22 and the sewing start point 17 ′ when sewing starts from the displaced start point 17 ′. This detection is performed, for example, by touching one point of the seam shown on the display 34 (see FIG. 1) of the sewing machine 1 in signal connection with the control device 24.

In the case of the starting point 17 ′ selected according to FIGS. 7 and 8, it becomes clear that the starting point 17 ′ is displaced by 50% of the total length L of the seam with respect to the reference point 33 during the detection. When the left sleeve is sewed, the rotational direction of the stitching direction of the joint seam is maintained as compared with the sewing situation of FIG. Therefore, the designated seam position P2 is located 5% after the total length L of the seam, the designated seam position P1 is located 15% after the full length L of the seam, and the designated seam position P3 is located 55% after the full length L. become. Between the designated stitch position P3 and the displaced sewing start point 17 ′, 25% of the total length L of the stitch remains. In response to the displacement of the starting point, when creating a sewing control data, the association of the sewing parameter values specified in the specified stitch position P1 to P3, what specified stitch position P1 to P3 is displaced starting point 17 ' It is done depending on whether it is on the seam part which is considered from now on.

  FIG. 9 is a diagram corresponding to FIG. 3, in which the sewing parameter characteristics are optimized along the seam for the right sleeve. Shown are sewing parameters that are adjusted along the seam extending around the edge contour 14 corresponding to experience values. The sewing direction is indicated in FIG. 9 by a directional arrow 18, i.e. extending clockwise around the edge contour 14. Starting from the sewing start point 17, the waveform application value has a small first value K1 up to almost half the seam length in the first seam area and to the Hakata seam 36 in the outer garment front portion 35. This small first waveform imparting value is suggested by a weakly wavy waveform line. Corresponding to the small corrugated value K1, the cuff has a small additional width along the seam compared to the material of the front portion 35. The second half of the joint seam between the sewing start point 17 and the shoulder seam 36 has a higher corrugation value K2, which is indicated in FIG. 9 by a more strongly wavy waveform line. In the region of the shoulder seam 36, the waveform giving value has a value of 0 through a short seam portion. In the subsequent extension of the subsequent seam, the corrugation value again has a higher value K2, which corresponds to a larger additional width of the sleeve material compared to the material of the outer garment back portion 37. . The waveform imparting value has shifted from a higher value K2 to a lower value K1, almost for the parameter transition in the front portion 35. In the area of the outer garment side portion 38 facing the shoulder seam, the waveform imparting value is zero. This also applies to the area of the seam around the sewing start point 17.

Where there is a smaller waveform application value K1, the radial seam portions 19 and 22 already described in connection with FIG. 3 have an arc radius value “large feed arc”. In the seam area having a large waveform giving value K2, there are radial seam portions 20, 21 having an arc radius value "small feed arc", that is, having a feed arc having a small radius.

  In the case of FIG. 9, a parameter example is shown in which a small feed arc, that is, a corresponding arc radius value exists even in the region of the shoulder seam 36. Alternatively, as described in connection with FIG. 3, the shoulder seam 36 has an arc radius value “small feed arc”, that is, a straight seam extension. A parameter seam portion may be present.

  In addition to the distribution of the waveform giving value K and the arc radius value corresponding to the distribution of FIG. 9 in the optimal seam extension mode, for example, the complete set of sewing control data includes a description of the seam portion length. ing. The description for the seam length starts with the first set of seam part lengths at the base size and gives a gradation value for all other garment sizes.

  The creation and operation methods already described in connection with FIGS. 1 to 8 allow automatic sewing as close as possible to the optimum parameter distribution. In this case, two fundamentally different process examples are distinguished.

In particular, in the first example already described in connection with the gradient values and the figures from FIG. 4 onwards, the seam is divided into a plurality of seam parts in order to prepare the original working sewing. This point is described by taking teach-in sewing at the preparation stage as an example. In this case, the sewing control data is created for the model stitch, particularly for the model stitch of the garment size. One example is the designation of a gradient value for calculating all other stitch lengths from the teach-in garment size sewn in the preparation stage. In the subsequent operation sewing, a series of stitch portions having the sewing parameters assigned to them are filed in the sewing control unit from the beginning.

Thus, the seam is first divided into a plurality of seam portions, and then the sewing parameters are designated for the seam portions.

As an alternative, the sewing parameters can already be specified during active sewing, as already explained in connection with FIG. The preparation sewing process, in particular, teach-in sewing for creating sewing control data can be omitted. In this case, even if there is no accurate knowledge of the total length of stitches in teach-in sewing, parameters are specified for dividing the stitches into stitch portions performed during teach-in sewing.

In this way, while the seam is divided into a plurality of seam parts, the sewing parameters are designated for these seam parts. This alternative designation / assignment method can also be used, for example, in the case of an arc radius value or a waveform imparting value, or in the case of a thread tension value and / or other sewing parameters.

  A different example for dividing the seam into a plurality of working seam portions will be described with reference to FIGS. These examples can be performed at the time of teach-in sewing, and each operation sewing is performed after that as a starting point.

  FIG. 10 shows an example in which the seam is divided into a total of three working seam portions a1, b1, and c1. Since only three working seam parts a1 to c1 are used, it is only possible to assign the seam parameters limited to these working seam parts a1 to c1. This is shown in FIG. 10 corresponding to the illustration of FIG. The working seam portion a1 has approximately 20% of the total length L starting from the sewing start point 17. The working seam portion b1 has approximately 35% of the total length L of the seam and extends symmetrically with respect to the shoulder seam 36 at the center of the working seam portion b1. The working seam portion c1 is the remaining 45% of the total length L of the seam.

  In the operation stitch portions a1 and c1, the waveform giving value K = 0, and the arc radius value is “large feed arc”. In the operating seam portion b1, the waveform application value is between the waveform application values K1 and K2 described in relation to FIG. 9, and the arc radius value is “small feed arc”.

  FIG. 11 shows an example in which the seam starting from the sewing start point 17 is divided into five working seam portions a1, b1, c1, d1, and e1. The working seam portion a1 is 5% of the length L of all the seams. The subsequent working seam portion b1 is 15% of the total length L of the seam. The subsequent working seam portion c1 is 25% of the total length L of the seam. The subsequent working seam portion d1 is 15% of the total length L of the seam, and the last working seam portion e1 is 40% of the total length L of the seam. At the seam portion a1, the waveform giving value K = 0, and the sewing is performed without a feed arc. In the operating seam portion b1, the waveform imparting value is K1, and sewing is performed with an arc radius value “large feed arc”. In the operating seam portion c1, the waveform giving value is K2, and the sewing is performed with the arc radius value “small feed arc”. In the operating stitch portion d1, the waveform giving value is K1, and the sewing is performed with the arc radius value “large feed arc”. In the operating stitch portion e1, the waveform giving value is K = 0, and the sewing is performed without a feed arc. In the operating seam portion c1, the shoulder seam 36 is substantially at the center. The working seam portions b1 and d1 face each other almost symmetrically.

  FIG. 12 shows an example in which the seam is divided into a total of seven working seam portions a1, b1, c1, d1, e1, f1, and g1. Correspondingly, as shown in FIG. 12, the sewing parameters are also divided into these working stitch portions a1 to g1. The stitch lengths of the working stitch portions a1 to g1 are 5%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 10%, 10%, and 40% of the total length L of the stitches. The working seam portion d 1 is in the region of the shoulder seam 36.

  Along the working stitch portions a1, d1, and g1, the waveform giving value is K = 0. The waveform applying value is K1 along the working seam portions b1 and f1. The waveform applying value is K2 along the working seam portions c1 and e1. Sewing is performed without feed arcs along the operation stitches a1 and g1. Along the working seam portions b1 and f1, sewing is performed with an arc radius value “large feed arc”. Along the operating seam portions e1, d1, and e1, sewing is performed with an arc radius value “small feed arc”.

  The operator can freely set the division of the entire seam into a plurality of working seam portions. The sewing control data must be set so as to be as close as possible to the optimum parameter distribution corresponding to FIG. 9 every time the stitch is divided into a plurality of working stitch portions.

  One possible embodiment for creating sewing control data to ensure this has already been described in particular in connection with FIGS. Table 5 below shows the gradient values assigned to the working seam portions corresponding to this method.

In other words, these assignments of the gradient value GW are made so that which designated stitch positions P1 to P3 are considered at present in the division of FIGS. . . Is in consideration.

In the division of FIG. 10, the two designated stitch positions P1, P2 are on the working stitch portion b1. The designated stitch position g3 is on the working stitch position c1. Correspondingly, the allocation of the gradient value GW to these seam portions is performed as shown in the column “FIG. 10” in Table 5. The waveform assignment values K1 and K2 and the arc radius value described above can also be assigned in correspondence with the positions of the designated stitch positions P1 to P3 on the stitch portions a1 to c1 currently considered. Since both the designated stitch positions P1 and P2 are on the working stitch portion b1, neither the waveform giving value K1 at the designated stitch position P1 nor the waveform giving value K2 at the designated stitch position P2 is assigned to this working stitch portion b1. An average waveform giving value, for example, (K1 + K2) / 2 is assigned.

In the case of the division of the seam portion in FIG. 11, the designated stitch positions P1, P2 are both on the stitch portion c1. The designated stitch position P3 is on the stitch portion d1. The allocation of the gradient value GW to the seam portions a1 to e1 is performed as described in the column “FIG. 11” in Table 5.

In the division of the seam portion in FIG. 12, the designated seam position P1 is on the seam portion c1. The designated stitch position P2 is on the stitch portion e1, and the designated stitch position P3 is on the stitch portion g1. Correspondingly, the assignment of the gradient values GW1, GW2 and GW3 is performed as described in the column “FIG. 12” in Table 5. Of course, instead of the gradient value GW, other sewing parameters such as an arc radius value or a waveform giving value may be assigned.

As long as the approximate length of the entire seam and the garment size are known (this can be queried through the machine control default), the sewing parameters can be assigned online during teach-in sewing. This point will be described again with reference to FIGS. 13 and 14 by taking the “right sleeve” and the “left sleeve” as an example. In this case, a modified embodiment of the operating method described in connection with FIG. 3 will be described. First, the seam is divided into parameter seam portions 19, 20, 21, and 22 and another last seam portion between the parameter seam portions 22 and 19 with the sewing start point 17 as a starting point. The difference from the division of the sewing parameter stitch portion in the embodiment of FIG. 3 is that the parameter stitch portions 20 and 21 are combined to form a combined stitch portion. An arc radius value “small feed arc” is assigned to the entire combined stitch portion. After the sewing start point 17, sewing is performed with an arc radius value to which the first parameter stitch portion, that is, the first radial stitch portion 19 is assigned, that is, sewing is performed with an arc radius value “large feed arc”. 13 and FIG. 14, when the replacement between two working stitch portions not shown in FIG. 13 is performed at the next parameter stitch portion instead of the parameter stitch portion 19, the arc radius value is changed to this new parameter stitch portion. It is switched to the assigned arc radius value. Since it can be assumed that the working seam portion has a certain length, the boundary between the parameter seam portions 19 to 22 in the sewing direction 18 is the optimum arc described respectively in comparison with that in FIGS. 13 and 14. It is in a position preceding the radius value stitch area. This means that if one working seam part has an end after this boundary area between two parameter seam parts, for example after the boundary area between parameter seam parts 19 and 20, 21 This change is also made when the arc radius value is switched (in the example described, the arc radius value “large feed arc” is switched to the arc radius value “small feed arc”) and the optimum sewing parameter is assigned. Guarantees that it should occur in the seam area that should have been

  In the control data generation example for the left sleeve in FIG. 14, the corresponding division of the seams of the radial seam portions 19, 20, 21, 22 is rotated with respect to the optimum arc radius value seam region preceded by the transition portion. This is done counterclockwise in the sewing direction 18 which means the direction.

  The above-described method can be used particularly when a sleeve is sewn on a body outer garment sewn part without gathers, particularly when a jacket is manufactured.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Sewing machine 17 Sewing start point 24 Control device 25 Memory module 26 Detection module 28 Memory unit 29 Switching module 32 Stitch 33 Sewing reference point a1, b1,. . . Seam part G1,. . . G10 Clothing size GW1, GW2, GW3 Assigned sewing parameter value P1, P2, P3 designated stitch position

Claims (10)

In a method for creating sewing control data for executing a sewing program representing a transition for sewing a seam (32),
Dividing the seam (32) into a plurality of seam portions (a1, b1,...);
Providing at least one designated stitch position (P1, P2; P1, P2, P3) to the stitch (32);
A step of designating at least one specified sewing parameter values (GW1, GW2, GW3) relative; (P1, P2, P3 P1 , P2), the designated seam position
Checking which stitch portion (a1.b1,...) The at least one designated stitch position (P1, P2; P1, P2, P3) is on;
Depending on which designated stitch position (P1, P2; P1, P2, P3) is on the stitch portion (a1, b1,...) Currently considered, at least one designated stitch position (P1 , P2; P1, P2, P3) assigning one assigned sewing parameter value (GW1, GW2, GW3) to the seam portion (a1.b1,.
Including
For a case where a plurality of designated stitch positions (P1, P2; P1, P2, P3) are on the same stitch portion (a1, b1,...), The stitch portions (a1, b1,. .) Is formed from a combination of the designated sewing parameter values ( GW1, GW2, GW3 ) for the designated stitch positions (P1, P2; P1, P2, P3). Like,
Said method. 2. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that a plurality of designated stitch positions (P1, P2; P1, P2, P3) are applied. At least two different specified sewing parameter values (GW1, GW2, GW3) of the at least one specified stitch position; characterized in that it specified for (P1, P2 P1, P2, P3), in claim 1 or 2 The method described.   The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the division of the seams into the seam parts (a1 to d1) is carried out by teach-in sewing. The at least one designated stitch position (P1, P2; P1, P2, P3) is given based on detection of a sewing distance from a sewing reference point (33) as a starting point. 5. The method according to any one of 4 to 4. The provision of the at least one designated stitch position (P1, P2; P1, P2, P3) is performed based on detection of a sewing distance between the sewing reference point (33) and a sewing start point (17). The method according to claim 5 , characterized in that:   7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the division of the seam (32) into the seam parts (a1 to d1) is performed depending on a predetermined garment size (G1 to G10) to be sewn. The method as described in one. In the operating method of the sewing machine (1) for generating seams,
Creating sewing control data using the method according to any one of claims 1 to 7;
Sewing the seam (32) starting from a sewing start point (17) in the area of one of the seam parts (a1 to d1);
Automatically switching the assigned sewing parameters when changing between two consecutive seam portions (a1 / b1, b1 / c1, c1, d1);
Operation method including. Sewing machine (1) for carrying out the method according to any one of claims 1 to 8,
A control device (24);
A memory module (25) for storing the position and length of the seam portion (a1 to d1) and the sewing parameters to be assigned;
A detection module (26) for detecting the current sewing position of the seam each time;
A switching module (29) for automatically switching at least one sewing parameter when changing between two consecutive seam portions (a1 to d1);
Sewing machine equipped with. The memory module (25) has a memory unit (28) for storing the length of the seam portion (a1 to d1) and the sewing operating parameters assigned for different garment sizes (G1 to G10). The sewing machine according to claim 9, wherein:

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