JP5948375B2 - clothes - Google Patents

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JP5948375B2
JP5948375B2 JP2014153992A JP2014153992A JP5948375B2 JP 5948375 B2 JP5948375 B2 JP 5948375B2 JP 2014153992 A JP2014153992 A JP 2014153992A JP 2014153992 A JP2014153992 A JP 2014153992A JP 5948375 B2 JP5948375 B2 JP 5948375B2
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sleeve
lower sleeve
saddle point
arm
degrees
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JP2016030872A (en
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澤 愈 中
澤 愈 中
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有限会社 中澤研究室
有限会社 中澤研究室
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Priority to EP14186835.6A priority patent/EP2979564B1/en
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Priority to HK16105354.1A priority patent/HK1217274A1/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10Sleeves; Armholes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Description

本発明は、特に腕の前方挙上の運動機能に対する追従性に優れ、動体適応衣として好ましい衣服に関するものである。   The present invention relates to a garment that is particularly excellent as a moving body adaptive garment that has excellent followability to a motor function of raising an arm forward.

従来の衣服においては、付袖あるいはラグラン袖の如何に拘らず、その袖は人体の中心から肩先を通る横軸の延長線上に設けられる。このために、静止時においてはともかく、腕の挙上動作、なかでも前方挙上運動に対して追従性がなく、したがって身頃と袖との連設部分に引きつれが起り、身頃を引張り上げることになって腕の動作の障害となり、人体の機能を妨げるものであった。   In a conventional garment, regardless of whether it is a sleeve or a raglan sleeve, the sleeve is provided on an extension line of a horizontal axis passing through the shoulder from the center of the human body. For this reason, when stationary, there is no follow-up to the arm lifting movement, especially the front lifting movement, so that the body part and the sleeve are pulled together and the body part is pulled up. It became an obstacle of the movement of the arm and hindered the function of the human body.

また、後身頃の袖付け部分にゆるみをとっても、腕の前方挙上時に前身頃の袖付け部分に引きつりが起り、いずれにしても運動機能に対する理想的な追従機能を有するものではなかった。   Even if the sleeve part of the back body is loosened, the sleeve part of the front body is pulled when the arm is lifted forward, and in any case, it does not have an ideal tracking function for the motor function.

特に動体適応衣における場合、上記運動機能に対する障害は致命的であり、また作業衣の場合であっても人体の疲労を早めるなどの欠陥をもたらすものであった。   In particular, in the case of a moving body adaptation clothing, the above-mentioned obstacle to the motor function is fatal, and even in the case of a work clothing, it leads to defects such as accelerating human fatigue.

これに対して、本願発明の発明者は、かかる衣服に関連した生体機能の研究により、衣服構造線に囲まれる人体の皮ふにある特性があり、この特性が衣服の構造に利用できることを明らかにした。   On the other hand, the inventor of the present invention has revealed that there is a characteristic in the skin of the human body surrounded by the clothes structure line, and that this characteristic can be used for the structure of the clothes, by studying the biological functions related to such clothes. did.

すなわち人体の皮ふには生理的なしわと、生活の中で繰り返えし行なわれる動作により形成される後発的なしわがあり、皮ふは後発的なしわのひだに対して直角な方向に伸展し、またしわのひだの方向には伸展しない。   In other words, the skin of the human body has physiological wrinkles and later wrinkles formed by repeated actions in daily life, and the skin extends in a direction perpendicular to the later wrinkle folds. Also, it does not extend in the direction of wrinkles.

そこで衣服の後身頃に対応する人体の皮ふについてしわの形成状態を調査してみると、図8に示すように、肩線121、後ネックホール122、後中心線123、ウエストライン124、脇線125およびアームホール126に囲まれた皮ふは、A方向とB方向に伸展する。A方向の伸展は、後身頃に相当する部分からアームホール126に向いて斜上方に延びる袖部の三角筋付着部SSに至るものであり、B方向の伸展は、後身頃のウエストラインに相当する部分から脇線を通って腕の前面にまわり込むように直上し三角筋付着部SSに至るものである。しかしてA方向の伸展とB方向の伸展の方向の違いは衣服の運動機能を表現する際に重要な意義をもつ。   Therefore, when the wrinkle formation state of the skin of the human body corresponding to the back of the clothes is examined, as shown in FIG. 8, the shoulder line 121, the rear neck hole 122, the rear center line 123, the waist line 124, the side line The skin surrounded by 125 and the armhole 126 extends in the A direction and the B direction. The extension in the A direction extends from the portion corresponding to the back body to the deltoid portion SS of the sleeve portion extending obliquely upward toward the arm hole 126, and the extension in the B direction corresponds to the waist line of the back body. It goes straight up from the part through the side line to the front of the arm and reaches the deltoid adhesion part SS. Therefore, the difference between the direction of extension in the A direction and the direction of extension in the B direction is important in expressing the movement function of clothes.

一方人体の皮ふには後腋部分の運動に適応するために拡がって出るマチ状の皮ふ127や、前腋部分の運動に適応するために拡がって出るマチ状の皮ふ138があり、これらマチ状の皮ふ127,128を考慮して衣服構造に表現すると、図8に示す後腋部配列空間a、や図9に示す前腋部配列空間bが画成されることになる。上記配列空間a,bを衣服の形紙にどのように表現するかが問題となる。 On the other hand, the skin of the human body has a gusset-like skin 127 that spreads out to adapt to the movement of the dorsumal part, and a gusset-like skin 138 that spreads out to adapt to the movement of the frontal part. If the skins 127 and 128 are taken into consideration, the rear buttock arrangement space a 1 shown in FIG. 8 and the heel arrangement space b 1 shown in FIG. 9 are defined. The problem is how to express the array spaces a 1 and b 1 on the pattern of clothes.

他方人体の腕運動において、衣服に対して引きつれを生ぜしめる運動は、腕の前方挙上のポーズである。   On the other hand, in the arm movement of the human body, the movement that causes the clothes to be pulled is a pose of raising the arm forward.

そこで腕の前方挙上運動のポーズを分析してみると、腕の前方から視た動きは、図10に示すように、前腋部129を上方に上げ、このことは鎖骨130が、胸鎖関節131を支点して動き、図11に示すように、外側端の肩峰点132を上方に約50mm変移せしめる。また腕の上方から視た動きは、図12に示すように、肩関節133および肘関節134を含む屈曲運動であり、これらの一連の屈曲運動は,全体として腕の前方への動きとなる。さらに腕の後方から視た動きは、図13に示すように、後腋部を外側上方につり上げ、前方におおいかぶさる形態を呈する。このことは、図13と図14に示される。   Therefore, when analyzing the pose of the arm's forward lifting movement, the movement seen from the front of the arm, as shown in FIG. 10, raises the forehead 129 upward, which means that the clavicle 130 The joint 131 moves as a fulcrum, and as shown in FIG. 11, the shoulder peak 132 at the outer end is shifted upward by about 50 mm. Further, as shown in FIG. 12, the movement of the arm viewed from above is a bending motion including the shoulder joint 133 and the elbow joint 134, and the series of bending motions is a movement of the arm forward as a whole. Further, the movement of the arm as viewed from the rear, as shown in FIG. 13, has a form in which the rear collar is lifted outward and covered forward. This is shown in FIG. 13 and FIG.

これに対し、本願発明の発明者は、上記した点に鑑みて、衣服に関連した生体機能の研究に基づき衣服構造線に囲まれる人体の皮ふにある特性があることに着目し、腕の前方挙上時に前身頃の袖付け部分に引きつりが起りにくい衣服を提案した(特許文献1)。   On the other hand, in view of the above points, the inventor of the present invention pays attention to the fact that there is a characteristic in the skin of the human body surrounded by the clothing structure line based on the study of biological functions related to clothing, and the front of the arm A garment that does not easily attract to the sleeves of the front body when raised is proposed (Patent Document 1).

特開昭59−204905号(1984−204905A)公報JP 59-204905 (1984-204905A)

しかしながら、特許文献1に係る衣服には、それまでの衣類に比べて腕の前方挙上時に前身頃の袖付け部分に引きつりが起りにくいにしても、なおも改良の余地があることが判明した。   However, it has been found that there is still room for improvement in the garment according to Patent Document 1, even though it is less likely to pull on the sleeved portion of the front body when the arm is lifted forward than the previous garment. did.

図6に特許文献1に係る衣服100を示す。衣服100は、前袖部101と、前袖部101が斜め上方に伸びるように前袖部101と一体的に裁断された前身頃102と、後袖部103と、後袖部103が斜め上方に伸びるように後袖部103と一体的に裁断された後身頃104と、前身頃102と後身頃104の側縁に縫着される側部105と、側部105の上端に連なり、前袖部101の下縁と後袖部103の下縁に逢着される下袖部106と、上袖部107と、上袖部107と一体的に裁断された肩部108とを備えている。   FIG. 6 shows a garment 100 according to Patent Document 1. The garment 100 includes a front sleeve portion 101, a front body 102 cut integrally with the front sleeve portion 101 so that the front sleeve portion 101 extends obliquely upward, a rear sleeve portion 103, and a rear sleeve portion 103 obliquely upward. A back body 104 that is integrally cut with the back sleeve 103 so as to extend, a side portion 105 that is sewn to the side edges of the front body 102 and the back body 104, and an upper end of the side portion 105. The lower sleeve part 106, the upper sleeve part 107, and the shoulder part 108 cut | judged integrally with the upper sleeve part 107 are provided.

図6に示すように、従来の衣服100においては、下袖部106は肩部10の長手方向に対して前方側に緩やかな弧状形状に形成されており、また、下袖部106の全体が単一のコンポーネントとして形成されていた。このために、従来の衣服100は、図7に示すように次のような問題を有していた。 As shown in FIG. 6, in the conventional clothes 100 is formed in a gentle arc shape on the front side with respect to the longitudinal direction of the lower sleeve 106 shoulders 108, also the whole of the lower sleeve portion 106 Was formed as a single component. For this reason, the conventional garment 100 has the following problems as shown in FIG.

図7において、点P、Qは各々、前腋点、後腋点を示し、前腋点Pと後腋点Qを結ぶ線は腋点基準線Lであり、点Mは腋点基準線Lの中点である腋下中点Mである。線AHはアームホールを示す線である。   In FIG. 7, points P and Q respectively indicate a front saddle point and a rear saddle point, a line connecting the front saddle point P and the rear saddle point Q is a saddle point reference line L, and point M is a saddle point reference line L. Is the midpoint M of the armpit. Line AH is a line indicating an armhole.

衣服の袖においては、一般的に、袖の上げ下ろしをすると腋窩の相当位置の近辺に折れ癖としての腋窩折線が形成される。従来の衣服100においては、腋点基準線Lの上方に腋点基準線Lとほぼ平行に腋窩折線Sが形成されていた。衣服100の腋窩折線Sは腋点基準線Lの上方位置にこれにほぼ平行に形成されるために、衣服100の着用者が袖を上方に挙げた後に下ろした場合に腋窩折線Sが腋窩に食い込み着用者に不快感を与えるという問題があった。   In the sleeve of clothes, generally, when the sleeve is raised and lowered, an axillary fold line as a fold is formed in the vicinity of the corresponding position of the axilla. In the conventional garment 100, an axillary fold line S is formed above the saddle point reference line L and substantially parallel to the saddle point reference line L. Since the axillary fold line S of the garment 100 is formed substantially parallel to the upper position of the saddle point reference line L, when the wearer of the garment 100 lifts the sleeve and then lowers the axillary fold line S in the axilla There was a problem of giving discomfort to the bite wearer.

また、従来の衣服100においては、下袖部106は、全体が単一のコンポーネントとして形成されており、また単純に肩部10の長手方向に対して前方側に緩やかな弧状形状に形成されているために、図7において曲線Wで示されるように引っ張り合って引き連れ、着用者に不快感を与えるという問題があった。 Further, in the conventional clothes 100, lower sleeve 106 is entirely formed in a gentle arc shape on the front side with respect to the longitudinal direction of which is formed as a single component, also simply shoulder 10 8 Therefore, there is a problem that the wearer feels uncomfortable by pulling and pulling each other as indicated by a curve W in FIG.

そこで、本件発明の目的は、上記従来技術の問題を解消し、衣服の着用者が袖を上方に挙げた後に下ろした場合に腋窩折線が腋窩に食い込むという不快感を与えられることなく、また袖に引き連れを生じさせない衣服を提供することである。   Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, without giving the discomfort that the armpit fold line bites into the armpit when the wearer lifts the sleeve after raising the sleeve upward, and the sleeve It is to provide clothes that do not cause any entrainment.

上記目的を達成するために、本件発明に係る衣類は、前袖部と、前記前袖部が斜め上方に伸びるように前記前袖部と連なる前身頃と、後袖部と、前記後袖部が斜め上方に伸びるように前記後袖部と連なる後身頃と、前記前身頃と前記後身頃の側縁に縫着される側部と、前記側部の上端に連なり、前記前袖部の下縁と前記後袖部の下縁に逢着される下袖部と、上袖部と、前記上袖部に連なる肩部と、を備え、前記下袖部は、前記側部の上端に連なり前記前袖部の下縁に逢着される下袖前部と、前記下袖前部とは別体として裁断され、前記側部の上端に連なり前記後袖部の下縁に逢着される下袖後部とを有し、前記下袖前部は、前記側部の長手方向に対し0度より大きく20度以下の角度範囲の角度で前方側へ弧状に形成されており、
前記下袖後部は、前記側部の長手方向に対し20度以上で40度以下の角度範囲の角度で、前腋点と後腋点とを結ぶ線である腋点基準線の近傍で前方側へ屈曲して形成されており、前記下袖前部と前記下袖後部とが互いに縫着される前において、前記下袖前部と前記下袖後部とは互いに交差していることを特徴とする。
In order to achieve the above object, a garment according to the present invention includes a front sleeve, a front body connected to the front sleeve so that the front sleeve extends obliquely upward, a rear sleeve, and the rear sleeve. A back body that is continuous with the back sleeve so as to extend obliquely upward, a side that is sewn to the side edges of the front and back bodies, a top that is connected to the upper end of the side, and under the front sleeve A lower sleeve part that is attached to an edge and a lower edge of the rear sleeve part, an upper sleeve part, and a shoulder part that continues to the upper sleeve part, wherein the lower sleeve part is connected to an upper end of the side part, and A lower sleeve front portion that is attached to the lower edge of the front sleeve portion, and a lower sleeve rear portion that is cut off as a separate body from the lower sleeve front portion and that is connected to the lower edge of the rear sleeve portion and connected to the upper end of the side portion. And the lower sleeve front part is formed in an arc shape toward the front side at an angle range of greater than 0 degrees and less than or equal to 20 degrees with respect to the longitudinal direction of the side part,
The lower sleeve rear portion is at an angle in the range of 20 degrees or more and 40 degrees or less with respect to the longitudinal direction of the side portion, and in the vicinity of the saddle point reference line that is a line connecting the front saddle point and the rear saddle point. The lower sleeve front part and the lower sleeve rear part intersect each other before the lower sleeve front part and the lower sleeve rear part are sewn together. To do.

また、前記下袖前部と前記下袖後部とが互いに縫着される前において、前記下袖後部の上側半分の部位は、前記下袖前部よりも前方側に位置することを特徴とする。   In addition, before the lower sleeve front portion and the lower sleeve rear portion are sewn together, the upper half portion of the lower sleeve rear portion is located on the front side of the lower sleeve front portion. .

また、前記前袖部、前記前身頃、前記後袖部、前記後身頃、前記前記下袖部、前記上袖部、及び前記肩部を互いに縫着して形成した衣服の袖を下方に垂らした場合に、形成される腋窩折線は、前記腋点基準線の中点である腋下中点を底点としV字状に拡開して形成されることを特徴とする。   In addition, a sleeve of a garment formed by sewing the front sleeve, the front body, the back sleeve, the back body, the lower sleeve, the upper sleeve, and the shoulder together is hung downward. In this case, the formed axillary fold line is formed by expanding in a V shape with the midpoint of the armpit, which is the midpoint of the saddle point reference line, as the bottom point.

また、前記側部は側部前部と側部後部とからなり、前記下袖前部と前記側部前部とは単一ピースの下袖側部前部として一体的に裁断され、前記下袖後部と前記側部後部とは単一ピースの下袖側部後部として一体的に裁断され、前記下袖側部前部と前記下袖側部後部とが互いに縫着されて前記下袖部と前記側部とが形成されることを特徴とする。   The side portion includes a front side portion and a rear side portion, and the lower sleeve front portion and the side front portion are integrally cut as a single piece lower sleeve side front portion, The sleeve rear portion and the side rear portion are integrally cut as a single sleeve lower sleeve side rear portion, and the lower sleeve side front portion and the lower sleeve side rear portion are sewn together to form the lower sleeve portion. And the side portion are formed.

また、前記側部は単一ピースとして一体的に裁断され、前記下袖前部と前記下袖後部とが前記側部に縫着されて前記下袖部と前記側部とが形成されることを特徴とする。   Further, the side part is integrally cut as a single piece, and the lower sleeve front part and the lower sleeve rear part are sewn to the side part to form the lower sleeve part and the side part. It is characterized by.

本願発明の構成によれば、下袖部は、側部の上端に連なり前袖部の下縁に逢着される下袖前部と、下袖前部とは別体として裁断され、側部の上端に連なり後袖部の下縁に逢着される下袖後部とを有し、下袖前部は、側部の長手方向に対し0度より大きく20度以下の角度範囲の角度で前方側へ弧状に形成されており、下袖後部は、側部の長手方向に対し20度以上で40度以下の角度範囲の角度で、前腋点と後腋点とを結ぶ線である腋点基準線の近傍で前方側へ屈曲して形成されており、下袖前部と下袖後部とが互いに縫着される前において、下袖前部と下袖後部とは互いに交差しているので、衣服の着用者が袖を上方に挙げた後に下ろした場合に腋窩折線が腋窩に食い込むという不快感を与えられることなく、また袖に引き連れを生じさせないようにすることができる。   According to the configuration of the present invention, the lower sleeve portion is cut off as a separate body from the lower sleeve front portion that is connected to the upper edge of the side portion and is attached to the lower edge of the front sleeve portion, and the lower sleeve front portion. A lower sleeve rear portion that is continuous with the upper end and is attached to the lower edge of the rear sleeve portion, and the lower sleeve front portion is directed forward in an angle range of greater than 0 degrees and less than or equal to 20 degrees with respect to the longitudinal direction of the side section. The saddle point reference line, which is formed in an arc shape, is a line connecting the front saddle point and the rear saddle point at an angle in the range of 20 degrees to 40 degrees with respect to the longitudinal direction of the side portion. Since the lower sleeve front part and the lower sleeve rear part cross each other before the lower sleeve front part and the lower sleeve rear part are sewn together, the clothes When the wearer lifts the sleeve after raising it, the axillary fold line does not give the uncomfortable feeling of biting into the axilla and causes the sleeve to be pulled It can be strange.

本願発明に係る衣類において(a)は前袖部及び前身頃を示し、(b)は下袖側部前部を示す図。In the garment according to the present invention, (a) shows the front sleeve and the front body, and (b) shows the lower sleeve side front. 本願発明に係る衣類において(a)は後袖部及び後身頃を示し、(b)は上袖部及び肩部を示す図。In the garment according to the present invention, (a) shows a back sleeve and a back body, and (b) shows an upper sleeve and a shoulder. 本願発明に係る衣類において(a)は下袖部及び側部を示し、(b)は下袖後部及び下袖側部後部を示す図。The clothing which concerns on this invention WHEREIN: (a) shows a lower sleeve part and a side part, (b) is a figure which shows a lower sleeve rear part and a lower sleeve side part rear part. 下袖前部と下袖後部とからなる下袖部を従来の下袖部と比較して示す図。本願の下袖前部と下袖後部をF’、B’と表示している。The figure which shows the lower sleeve part which consists of a lower sleeve front part and a lower sleeve rear part compared with the conventional lower sleeve part. The lower sleeve front portion and the lower sleeve rear portion of the present application are indicated as F 'and B'. 腕を前方上方に挙げることに伴う皮ふの偏位について説明する図であり、(a)は腕を下方に向けた前側姿勢を示し、(b)は腕を下方に向けた後姿勢を示し、(c)は腕を上方に向けた前側姿勢を示し、(d)は腕を上方に挙げた側面姿勢を示す。It is a figure explaining the deviation of the skin accompanying raising the arm forward and upward, (a) shows the front posture with the arm facing downward, (b) shows the rear posture with the arm facing downward, (C) shows the front posture with the arm facing upward, and (d) shows the side posture with the arm raised upward. 従来の衣服を示す図。The figure which shows the conventional clothes. 従来の下袖部が有する課題を説明する図。The figure explaining the subject which the conventional lower sleeve part has. 衣服の後身頃に対応する人体の皮ふのしわの形成状態を示す図。The figure which shows the formation state of the skin wrinkle of the human body corresponding to the back body of clothes. 衣服の前身頃に対応する同様な図。The same figure corresponding to the front body of clothes. 腕の前方挙上運動を前面より視た状態を示す図。The figure which shows the state which looked at the front raising motion of the arm from the front. 腕の前方挙上運動を前面より視た状態を示す図。The figure which shows the state which looked at the front raising motion of the arm from the front. 腕の前方挙上運動を上面より視た状態を示す図。The figure which shows the state which looked at the front raising movement of the arm from the upper surface. 腕の前方挙上運動を後面より視た状態を示す図。The figure which shows the state which looked at the front raising movement of the arm from the rear surface. 腕の前方挙上運動を側面より視た状態を示す図。The figure which shows the state which looked at the front raising exercise | movement of the arm from the side. 腕の前方挙上運動に伴い、肩の後部側の皮ふが斜め上方に伸展(矢印C)することと、肩の前部側の皮ふが上方へ直線状に偏位(矢印D)することを説明する腕の付け根を示す断面図。As the arm moves forward, the rear skin of the shoulder extends diagonally upward (arrow C), and the front skin of the shoulder deviates linearly (arrow D). Sectional drawing which shows the base of the arm demonstrated.

以下に図面を参照し、本件発明の実施形態に係る衣類について説明する。
衣類1は、前袖部2と、前袖部2が斜め上方に伸びるように前袖部に連なる前身頃3と、後袖部4と、後袖部4が斜め上方に伸びるように後袖部4と連なる後身頃5と、前身頃3の側縁3aと後身頃5の側縁5aに縫着される側部6と、側部6の上端6aに連なり、前袖部2の下縁2aと後袖部4の下縁4aに逢着される下袖部7と、上袖部8と、上袖部8に連なる肩部9とを備えている。前袖部2は前身頃3の側縁3aに対して例えば115度の角度をなす。後袖部4は後身頃5の側縁5aに対して例えば110度の角度をなす。
The clothing according to the embodiment of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.
The garment 1 includes a front sleeve 2, a front body 3 connected to the front sleeve so that the front sleeve 2 extends obliquely upward, a rear sleeve 4, and a rear sleeve such that the rear sleeve 4 extends obliquely upward. The back body 5 connected to the portion 4, the side edge 3 a of the front body 3, the side portion 6 sewn to the side edge 5 a of the back body 5, and the upper edge 6 a of the side portion 6, and the lower edge of the front sleeve portion 2 2 a and a lower sleeve portion 7 attached to the lower edge 4 a of the rear sleeve portion 4, an upper sleeve portion 8, and a shoulder portion 9 connected to the upper sleeve portion 8. The front sleeve 2 forms an angle of 115 degrees with respect to the side edge 3a of the front body 3, for example. The rear sleeve 4 forms an angle of 110 degrees with respect to the side edge 5a of the back body 5, for example.

下袖部7は、側部6の上端6aに連なり前袖部2の下縁2aに逢着される下袖前部10と、下袖前部10とは別体として裁断され、側部6の上端6aに連なり後袖部4の下縁に逢着される下袖後部11とを有する。下袖前部10と袖後部11とは図3(a)に示されるように、重なり部を有するので一体的に裁断することはできない。   The lower sleeve portion 7 is cut off as a separate body from the lower sleeve front portion 10 that is connected to the upper edge 6a of the side portion 6 and is attached to the lower edge 2a of the front sleeve portion 2, and the lower sleeve front portion 10. It has a lower sleeve rear portion 11 that is continuous with the upper end 6 a and is attached to the lower edge of the rear sleeve portion 4. As shown in FIG. 3A, the lower sleeve front portion 10 and the sleeve rear portion 11 have overlapping portions and cannot be cut integrally.

下袖前部10は、側部6の長手方向6bに対し0度より大きく20度以下の角度範囲の角度θ1で前方側へ弧状に形成されており、下袖後部11は、側部6の長手方向6bに対し20度以上で40度以下の角度範囲の角度θ2で、前腋点Pと後腋点Qとを結ぶ線である腋点基準線Lの近傍で前方側へ屈曲して形成されている。ここで、下袖前部10は、側部6の長手方向6bに対し0度より大きくあるというのは、側部6の長手方向6bに対し0度にかなり近い値であってもよいが0度ではなく、小さな角度をなしているという意味である。   The lower sleeve front portion 10 is formed in an arc shape to the front side at an angle θ1 of an angle range of greater than 0 degrees and 20 degrees or less with respect to the longitudinal direction 6b of the side portion 6. Formed by bending forward in the vicinity of saddle point reference line L, which is a line connecting front saddle point P and rear saddle point Q, at an angle θ2 of an angle range of 20 degrees or more and 40 degrees or less with respect to longitudinal direction 6b. Has been. Here, the lower sleeve front part 10 is larger than 0 degree with respect to the longitudinal direction 6b of the side part 6, but may be a value substantially close to 0 degree with respect to the longitudinal direction 6b of the side part 6. It means not a degree but a small angle.

下袖前部10と下袖後部11とが互いに縫着される前において、下袖前部10と下袖後部9とは互いに交差している。   Before the lower sleeve front portion 10 and the lower sleeve rear portion 11 are sewn together, the lower sleeve front portion 10 and the lower sleeve rear portion 9 intersect each other.

下袖前部10と下袖後部9とは、より詳細には、下袖前部10と下袖後部11とが互いに縫着される前において、下袖後部11の上側半分の部位は、下袖前部10よりも前方側に位置する。下袖前部10は、側部6の長手方向6bに対し緩く前方側へ弧状に形成されている。これに対して、下袖後部11は、図3(a)に示されるように、側部6の長手方向6bに対し腋点基準線Lの近傍で前方側へ屈曲しさらに直線的に伸びている。なお、衣類1が長袖でなく半袖を有する場合には、下袖前部10よりも前方側に位置する下袖後部11の部位が無い場合もある。   More specifically, the lower sleeve front portion 10 and the lower sleeve rear portion 9 are configured so that, before the lower sleeve front portion 10 and the lower sleeve rear portion 11 are sewn together, the upper half portion of the lower sleeve rear portion 11 is It is located in front of the sleeve front part 10. The lower sleeve front portion 10 is formed in an arc shape loosely forward with respect to the longitudinal direction 6 b of the side portion 6. On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 3A, the lower sleeve rear part 11 bends forward in the vicinity of the saddle point reference line L with respect to the longitudinal direction 6b of the side part 6 and further linearly extends. Yes. If the garment 1 has short sleeves instead of long sleeves, there may be no lower sleeve rear portion 11 located in front of the lower sleeve front portion 10.

なお、前身頃3と前袖部2とは、必ずしも一体的に裁断される必要はないが、前身頃3は通常、前袖部2が斜め上方に伸びるように前袖部2に連なるように一体的に裁断される。後身頃5と後袖部4とは、必ずしも一体的に裁断される必要はないが、後身頃5は通常、後袖部4が斜め上方に伸びるように後袖部4と一体的に裁断される。   The front body 3 and the front sleeve 2 do not necessarily have to be cut integrally, but the front body 3 is usually connected to the front sleeve 2 so that the front sleeve 2 extends obliquely upward. Cut together. The back body 5 and the back sleeve 4 do not necessarily have to be integrally cut, but the back body 5 is usually cut integrally with the back sleeve 4 so that the back sleeve 4 extends obliquely upward. The

側部6は側部前部12と側部後部13とから構成されている。下袖前部10と側部前部12とは単一ピースの下袖側部前部14として一体的に裁断され、下袖後部11と側部後部13とは単一ピースの下袖側部後部15として一体的に裁断され、下袖側部前部14と下袖側部後部15とが互いに縫着されて下袖部7と側部6とが形成される。   The side part 6 includes a side front part 12 and a side rear part 13. The lower sleeve front part 10 and the side front part 12 are integrally cut as a single piece lower sleeve side part front part 14, and the lower sleeve rear part 11 and the side rear part 13 are a single piece lower sleeve side part. The lower sleeve side front portion 14 and the lower sleeve side rear portion 15 are sewn together to form the lower sleeve portion 7 and the side portion 6.

なお、側部6を単一ピースとして一体的に裁断することも可能である。図3(a)において、側部6の上端6aより下方部が単一ピースとして一体的に裁断された側部6を示す。この場合、下袖前部10と下袖後部1とが一体的に裁断された側部6に縫着されて下袖部7と側部6とを形成するようにすればよい。 In addition, it is also possible to cut the side part 6 integrally as a single piece. FIG. 3A shows the side portion 6 in which the lower portion of the side portion 6 is integrally cut from the upper end 6a as a single piece. In this case, a lower front sleeve part 10 and the lower back sleeve part 1 1 it is sufficient to form the lower sleeve portion 7 and the side 6 is stitched to the side 6 which is cut integrally.

図4に、下袖前部10と下袖後部11とからなる本実施の形態に係る下袖部7を従来の下袖部106と比較して示す。   FIG. 4 shows a lower sleeve portion 7 according to the present embodiment composed of a lower sleeve front portion 10 and a lower sleeve rear portion 11 in comparison with a conventional lower sleeve portion 106.

次に、図5を参照して、腕を前方上方に挙げることに伴うの偏位について説明する。図5の(a)は腕を下方に向けた前側姿勢を示し、(b)は腕を下方に向けた後姿勢を示し、(c)は腕を上方に向けた前側姿勢を示し、(d)は腕を上方に向けた後姿勢を示す。AHはアームホールを示し、符合Dは三角筋祖面部を示し、符合Bは腹側進展方向を示し、符合Rは肩峰点を示す。図5(c)、(d)に示されるように、腕を前方上方に挙げることに伴い腋窩面が前向きになりながら捻り上がり、前腋点Pは大きく偏位したAH上に位置する。   Next, with reference to FIG. 5, a description will be given of the displacement associated with raising the arm forward and upward. 5A shows a front posture with the arm facing downward, FIG. 5B shows a rear posture with the arm facing downward, FIG. 5C shows a front posture with the arm facing upward, (d ) Shows the rear posture with the arm facing upward. AH indicates an arm hole, a symbol D indicates a prosthetic portion of the deltoid muscle, a symbol B indicates a ventral direction, and a symbol R indicates a shoulder point. As shown in FIGS. 5 (c) and 5 (d), as the arm is raised forward and upward, the axillary surface is twisted up while facing forward, and the anterior saddle point P is located on the greatly displaced AH.

図15は、腕を肩峰点Rと前腋点Pと後腋点Qを通る面で切断した腕の付け根の断面を示す。腕を前方上方に挙げるときの皮ふの動きとしては、腕の運動の初動時には、まず肩の後部側の皮ふが矢印Cで示すように斜め上方に伸展(矢印C)する。次に、前腋点PがAH上に沿って上昇するに従って、肩の前部側の皮ふが矢印Dで示すように上方へ直線状に直上方向に偏位する。   FIG. 15 shows a cross-section of the base of the arm obtained by cutting the arm along a plane passing the shoulder peak point R, the front saddle point P, and the rear saddle point Q. As the movement of the skin when raising the arm forward and upward, the skin on the rear side of the shoulder first extends obliquely upward (arrow C) as indicated by arrow C at the time of the initial movement of the arm. Next, as the front saddle point P rises along AH, the skin on the front side of the shoulder is displaced upward and linearly upward as indicated by arrow D.

このように、腕を前方上方に挙げる運動の初動時に相当する第1段階には、肩の後部側の皮ふが矢印Cで示すように斜め上方へ伸展する動きが生じるのであり、また、この皮ふが矢印Cで示すように斜め上方へ伸展する動きは第1段階においてのみ支配的であるのである。腕を前方上方に挙げる運動における、第1段階の次ぐ第2段階においては、矢印Dで示すように肩の前部側の皮ふが直線状に直上方向に偏位し、腋底が前向きに捻りあがる。この第2段階は、腕を前方上方に挙げる運動のかなりの期間において支配的である。そして、最終的に第3段階として、腕の付け根の全体が前上方向へ移動する。   Thus, in the first stage corresponding to the initial movement of raising the arm forward and upward, the skin on the back side of the shoulder extends obliquely upward as indicated by the arrow C. As shown by the arrow C, the movement extending obliquely upward is dominant only in the first stage. In the second stage after the first stage in the exercise of raising the arm forward and upward, as shown by the arrow D, the skin on the front side of the shoulder is linearly displaced in the straight upward direction, and the sole is twisted forward. Get nervous. This second stage is dominant for a significant period of the exercise of raising the arms forward and upward. Finally, as a third stage, the entire base of the arm moves in the front-up direction.

そして、本願発明においては、袖に生じ得る引き連れを防止するために、矢印Cで示す伸展という動きに対応して下袖後部11の形状が設計されており、矢印Dで示す偏位という動きに対応して下袖前部10の形状が設計されているのである。また、下袖前部10が下袖後部11に比べてより直線状の形状をしているのは、下袖前部10が上記の第2段階の動きに主に関係しているのであり、下袖後部11が下袖前部10に比べてより屈曲した形状をしているのは、上記の第1段階の動きに主に対応していることに関係しているのである。   And in this invention, in order to prevent the accompanying which may arise in a sleeve, the shape of the lower sleeve rear part 11 was designed corresponding to the movement of the extension shown by the arrow C, and the movement of the deviation shown by the arrow D Correspondingly, the shape of the lower sleeve front part 10 is designed. The lower sleeve front part 10 has a more linear shape than the lower sleeve rear part 11 because the lower sleeve front part 10 is mainly related to the movement of the second stage, The reason why the lower sleeve rear portion 11 is bent more than the lower sleeve front portion 10 is related to the fact that it mainly corresponds to the movement of the first stage.

本願発明は、図5に示すように、腕を前方上方に挙げることに伴い腋窩面が前向きになりながら捻り上がるということに着目し、下袖部7を下袖前部10と下袖後部11とで構成することによって、腋窩折線が腋窩に食い込むことや袖に引き連れを生じるという前述した従来の問題を解決するものである。   As shown in FIG. 5, the present invention pays attention to the fact that the axillary surface is twisted upward while raising the arm forward and upward, and the lower sleeve portion 7 is connected to the lower sleeve front portion 10 and the lower sleeve rear portion 11. This solves the above-mentioned conventional problem that the axillary fold line bites into the axilla and causes the sleeve to be pulled.

本実施の形態においては、下袖前部10が側部6の長手方向6bに対し0度より大きく20度以下の角度範囲の角度θ1で前方側へ弧状に形成されており、下袖後部11が側部6の長手方向6bに対し20度以上で40度以下の角度範囲の角度θ2で、腋点基準線Lの近傍で前方側へ屈曲して形成されていることによって、図3(a)に示されるように、腋窩折線Tは、腋点基準線Lの中点である腋下中点Mを底点としV字状に拡開して形成される。この結果、腋窩折線Tは腋下中点Mを底点としV字状に拡開しているために、前方上方に挙げた腕を下方に下ろした場合に、図7に示す腋窩折線Sの場合と異なり、腋窩に食い込み着用者に不快感を与えるという問題を解消することができる。   In the present embodiment, the lower sleeve front portion 10 is formed in an arc shape in the forward direction at an angle θ1 of an angle range of greater than 0 degrees and 20 degrees or less with respect to the longitudinal direction 6b of the side portion 6, and the lower sleeve rear portion 11 Is bent forward in the vicinity of the saddle point reference line L at an angle θ2 in an angle range of 20 degrees or more and 40 degrees or less with respect to the longitudinal direction 6b of the side portion 6, thereby FIG. ), The axillary fold line T is formed to expand in a V-shape with the armpit midpoint M, which is the midpoint of the saddle point reference line L, as the base point. As a result, since the axillary fold line T is expanded in a V shape with the armpit midpoint M as the base point, the arm of the axillary fold line S shown in FIG. Unlike the case, the problem of biting into the axilla and causing discomfort to the wearer can be solved.

また、下袖前部10と下袖後部11とが上述の形状を有することによって、図7において曲線Wで示されるように引っ張り合って引き連れ、着用者に不快感を与えるという問題を解消することができる。   Further, the lower sleeve front portion 10 and the lower sleeve rear portion 11 have the above-described shape, thereby eliminating the problem of pulling and pulling as shown by the curve W in FIG. Can do.

1 衣服
2 前袖部
3 前身頃
4 後袖部
5 後身頃
6 側部
7 下袖部
8 上袖部
9 肩部
10 下袖前部
11 下袖後部
12 側部前部
13 側部後部
14 下袖側部前部
15 下袖側部後部
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Clothes 2 Front sleeve part 3 Front body 4 Rear sleeve part 5 Rear body part 6 Side part 7 Lower sleeve part 8 Upper sleeve part 9 Shoulder part 10 Lower sleeve front part 11 Lower sleeve rear part 12 Side front part 13 Side rear part 14 Lower Sleeve side front part 15 Lower sleeve side rear part

Claims (5)

前袖部と、
前記前袖部が斜め上方に伸びるように前記前袖部と連なる前身頃と、
後袖部と、
前記後袖部が斜め上方に伸びるように前記後袖部と連なる後身頃と、
前記前身頃と前記後身頃の側縁に縫着される側部と、
前記側部の上端に連なり、前記前袖部の下縁と前記後袖部の下縁に逢着される下袖部と、
上袖部と、
前記上袖部に連なる肩部と、
を備え、
前記下袖部は、
前記側部の上端に連なり前記前袖部の下縁に逢着される下袖前部と、
前記下袖前部とは別体として裁断され、前記側部の上端に連なり前記後袖部の下縁に逢着される下袖後部と
を有し、
前記下袖前部は、前記側部の長手方向に対し0度より大きく20度以下の角度範囲の角度で前方側へ弧状に形成されており、
前記下袖後部は、前記側部の長手方向に対し20度以上で40度以下の角度範囲の角度で、前腋点と後腋点とを結ぶ線である腋点基準線の近傍で前方側へ屈曲して形成されており、
前記下袖前部と前記下袖後部とが互いに縫着される前において、前記下袖前部と前記下袖後部とは互いに交差している
ことを特徴とする衣服。
The front sleeve,
A front body connected to the front sleeve so that the front sleeve extends obliquely upward;
The back sleeve,
A back body connected to the back sleeve so that the back sleeve extends diagonally upward;
Side parts sewn to the side edges of the front body and the back body;
A lower sleeve portion connected to an upper end of the side portion, and attached to a lower edge of the front sleeve portion and a lower edge of the rear sleeve portion;
Upper sleeve,
A shoulder connected to the upper sleeve,
With
The lower sleeve is
A lower sleeve front portion connected to an upper edge of the side portion and attached to a lower edge of the front sleeve portion;
The lower sleeve front part is cut as a separate body, and has a lower sleeve rear part that is continuous with the upper end of the side part and is attached to the lower edge of the rear sleeve part,
The lower sleeve front part is formed in an arc shape to the front side at an angle in the angle range of greater than 0 degree and less than or equal to 20 degrees with respect to the longitudinal direction of the side part,
The lower sleeve rear portion is at an angle in the range of 20 degrees or more and 40 degrees or less with respect to the longitudinal direction of the side portion, and in the vicinity of the saddle point reference line that is a line connecting the front saddle point and the rear saddle point. Is bent to
Before the lower sleeve front part and the lower sleeve rear part are sewn together, the lower sleeve front part and the lower sleeve rear part intersect with each other.
前記下袖前部と前記下袖後部とが互いに縫着される前において、前記下袖後部の上側半分の部位は、前記下袖前部よりも前方側に位置する
ことを特徴とする請求項1に記載の衣服。
The lower half front portion of the lower sleeve is located on the front side of the lower sleeve front portion before the lower sleeve front portion and the lower sleeve rear portion are sewn together. The clothing according to 1.
前記前袖部、前記前身頃、前記後袖部、前記後身頃、前記前記下袖部、前記上袖部、及び前記肩部を互いに縫着して形成した衣服の袖を下方に垂らした場合に、形成される腋窩折線は、前記腋点基準線の中点である腋下中点を底点としV字状に拡開して形成される
ことを特徴とする請求項1に記載の衣服。
When the sleeve of the garment formed by sewing the front sleeve, the front body, the rear sleeve, the back body, the lower sleeve, the upper sleeve, and the shoulder together is hung downward. 2. The garment according to claim 1, wherein the formed axillary fold line is formed to expand in a V shape with the midpoint of the armpit as the bottom point, which is the midpoint of the saddle point reference line. .
前記側部は側部前部と側部後部とからなり、
前記下袖前部と前記側部前部とは一体的な単一ピースの下袖側部前部を構成し、前記下袖後部と前記側部後部は単一ピースの下袖側部後部を一体的に構成し、前記下袖側部前部と前記下袖側部後部とによって前記下袖部と前記側部とが形成されることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の衣服。
The side portion comprises a front side portion and a rear side portion,
The lower sleeve front part and the side front part constitute an integral single piece lower sleeve side front part, and the lower sleeve rear part and the side rear part comprise a single piece lower sleeve side rear part . a garment according to claim 1, characterized in that integrally formed, and the side with the lower sleeve portion by the said lower sleeve side rear and the lower sleeve side front portion is formed.
前記側部は一体的な単一ピースを構成し、前記下袖前部と前記下袖後部とが前記側部に連続することを特徴とする請求項1に記載の衣服。 The garment according to claim 1, wherein the side portion constitutes an integral single piece , and the lower sleeve front portion and the lower sleeve rear portion are continuous with the side portion.
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB190924507A (en) * 1909-10-25 1910-06-23 Maurice Levy Improvements in Coats, Jackets, and the like.
US3654632A (en) * 1970-06-18 1972-04-11 Flora L Lacroix Clothing sleeve
JPS5231065Y2 (en) * 1972-12-04 1977-07-15
JPS59204905A (en) 1983-05-09 1984-11-20 中澤 愈 Clothing
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