JP5819299B2 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition with low adhesiveness containing lipophilic active ingredient - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention is especially a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase, comprising one or more lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, the active ingredient The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition that can reduce the sticky feeling that can be produced by the use of the composition and can obtain a good feel after use of the composition.

  The present invention also relates to a method for reducing the sticky feeling on keratin materials that may be caused by lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients applied to keratin materials such as skin and / or hair.

  It is well known to incorporate cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as UV filters or vitamins into cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Many types of these active ingredients used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions are fat-soluble. When a fat-soluble active ingredient is added to a cosmetic or dermatological composition, after application of the composition to the skin or hair, a sticky feeling due to the active ingredient often occurs, resulting in poor use feeling of the composition.

  JP 2008-247897 discloses (a) 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate and / or isononyl 2-ethylhexanoate, (b) a UV absorber, and (c) a UV scattering agent, and (d) UV protective cosmetic compositions comprising silicone oils in the form of O / W emulsions or W / O emulsions are disclosed, which can lead to a good feeling of use with reduced stickiness.

  JP 2007-131612 discloses UV protective cosmetic compositions containing lipophilic UV filters and the use of alkylaryl-1,3-propanedione-silicone derivatives to improve the stickiness caused by UV filters. ing.

JP 2008-247897 JP 2007-131612 A WO99 / 10318 WO99 / 32077 FR-A-2581542 EP-A-378936 WO2007 / 068371 US7,357,920

Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, 105, 53-64

  However, there is a further desire for an alternative method that reduces the stickiness of a cosmetic or dermatological composition with a lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient in the composition and provides a composition with good usability.

  Surprisingly, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase, a lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient, a non-alcoholic volatile solvent different from cyclomethicone, Use of one or more combinations of volatile alcohols, wax particles, and non-volatile compounds having at least one hydrophilic functional group can reduce the stickiness that can be caused by lipophilic active ingredients, and the feel of use of the composition I discovered that I can improve. That is, the use of the above combination of ingredients in a cosmetic or dermatological composition can result in a non-greasy and non-sticky feel in the resulting cosmetic or dermatological composition, often in the case of an active ingredient. Along with good spread, non-glossy effect and smooth feel. As used herein, the term “tackiness” is used to indicate the properties of a cosmetic or dermatological composition that gives the skin and / or hair a sticky or gooey feel upon application of the composition.

The present invention therefore features a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase, the composition comprising:
a) at least 5% by weight of one or more lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients relative to the total amount of the composition;
b) a non-alcoholic volatile solvent different from cyclomethicone;
c) volatile alcohols;
d) wax particles; and
e) including non-volatile compounds having at least one hydrophilic functional group.

  Preferably, the composition of the present invention contains only volatile cyclomethicone in an amount of less than 1% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition, more preferably it does not contain volatile cyclomethicone.

[Definition]
a) Lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient The composition of the present invention comprises one or more lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients. “Cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient” provides a cosmetically or dermatologically beneficial effect upon application of a composition comprising it, specifically upon application to keratinous substances such as skin or hair A compound or composition that can be. As used herein, the term “lipophilic” of a lipophilic active ingredient means that the active ingredient can be completely dissolved in the oil phase of the composition or dispersed in a colloidal form such as a micelle form in the oil phase of the composition. To do.

  Examples of lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients include, but are not limited to: aminophenols and aminophenol derivatives, also referred to herein as “aminophenols”; Salicylic acid derivatives; 2-amino-4-alkylaminopyrimidine-3-oxide derivatives, especially 2-amino-4-dodecylaminopyrimidine-3-oxide; DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone), their derivatives and their chemistry Precursors such as 7-hydroxy-DHEA and 7-keto-DHEA; cholesterol and their derivatives such as their esters; plant sterols such as phytosterol and sitosterol and their esters; pentacyclic triterpenic acids; 4- Hydroxystilbenes such as hydroxystilbene; flavonoids; UV filters; carotenoids, For example, retinol, lycopene and carotenes such as vitamin A and their derivatives; flavors and essential oils; hormones; vitamins such as vitamin E; ceramides; and combinations of two or more of the aforementioned compounds.

  The above aminophenol derivatives are more specifically derivatives of the following formula (1), but are not limited to these specific examples:

[Wherein R ′ represents the following groups (a), (b) and (c):
(a) -CO-NR ¹ R ²
(b) -CO-OR ³
(c) -SO ₂ R ³
(Wherein R ¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₆ alkyl group, R ² represents a hydrogen atom, or not or hydroxylated is hydroxylated, linear saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, in particular represents a group selected from C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, R ³ is are not or hydroxylated is hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched (including fused polycyclic) C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ alkyl group Represents a group selected from
A group selected from the group consisting of].

In the formula (1), the linear or branched R ² or R ³ group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms is preferably methyl group, ethyl group, propyl group, isopropyl group, butyl group, tert-butyl group, hexyl group. Groups, octyl groups, nonyl groups, 2-ethylhexyl groups, dodecyl groups, hexadecyl groups, behenyl groups, octadecyl groups and 2-butyloctyl groups. These groups preferably have 1 to 12 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the alkyl group generally has 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Examples of lower alkyl groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl and hexyl groups.

  When unsaturated, a group having one or more ethylenic unsaturations, more specifically an allyl group, is preferred.

  When the alkyl group is cyclic, a cyclohexyl group, cholesteryl group or tert-butylcyclohexyl group can be mentioned in particular. When hydroxylated, this group preferably comprises 1 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups. The monohydroxyalkyl group is preferably a group having 1 or 3 carbon atoms, specifically, a hydroxymethyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-hydroxypropyl group, or a 3-hydroxypropyl group.

  Polyhydroxyalkyl groups include groups containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups, such as 2,3-dihydroxypropyl, 2,3,4-trihydroxybutyl, 2,3, A 4,5-tetrahydroxypentyl or 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexyl group is preferred.

  An alkoxylated group is an alkyl group preceded by an oxygen atom, particularly as described above.

Preferably, the aminophenol derivative used in the present invention satisfies at least one, preferably all of the following conditions:
The —OH function on the phenyl group is in the ortho position or preferably in the para position;
-R 'is selected from the group of formula (a) or (b).
Examples of the linear or branched alkyl group R ¹ include a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an isopropyl group, a tert-butyl group, and a hexyl group.

  The aminophenol derivative used in the composition of the present invention is preferably a p-aminophenol derivative; even more preferably the formula (1a):

N-ethoxycarbonyl-4-p-aminophenol of formula (1b):

N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-4-p-aminophenol.

  These aminophenol derivatives and methods for their preparation are described in patent applications published as WO99 / 10318 and WO99 / 32077.

  These derivatives can have a somewhat long hydrocarbon chain bonded to the nitrogen atom, preferably an alkoxycarbonyl chain.

  Salicylic acid derivatives that can be used as lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients are derivatives of formula (2):

{Where
R " ₁ is
Formula -O-CO-R " ₄
[Wherein R " ₄ is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having 1 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms. Substituted or unsubstituted amine or thiol functionality]
Represents a hydroxy group or an ester of
R ″ ₂ and R ″ ₃ are each independently at the 3-position, 4-position, 5-position or 6-position on the benzene ring, and are independently of each other a hydrogen atom or group;
-(O) _n- (CO) _m -R " ₅
[Where
n and m are each independently an integer equal to 0 or 1, respectively, provided that R " ₂ and R" ₃ are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms,
R ″ ₅ represents hydrogen, a straight chain, branched or cyclized saturated aliphatic group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or a non-substituted group having 3 to 18 carbon atoms having 1 to 9 conjugated double bonds or non-conjugated double bonds. Represents a saturated group, these groups are halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine) and the following groups: a trifluoromethyl group, a free or esterified hydroxyl group with 1 to 6 carbon acids, Or a substituted or unsubstituted carboxyl group esterified with a free or lower alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group having 6 to 10 carbon atoms is there]
Represents}.

Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is one in which R ″ ₅ represents a saturated aliphatic group having 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is such that R ″ ₁ represents a hydroxyl group.

Preferably, the salicylic acid derivative is one in which R ″ ₅ is at the 5-position of the benzene ring and R ″ ₂ represents a hydrogen atom.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salicylic acid derivative comprises 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyl. Oxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxy Salicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, derivatives of 5-benzoylsalicylic acid, monovalent and divalent salts thereof, and It is a mixture of

  Particularly preferred is the use of 2-hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic acid sold under the trade name Mexoryl SAB by Chimex, which corresponds to the following formula:

  It is well known practice to use salicylic acid derivatives in topical compositions, for example as keratolytic agents for treating acne or as anti-aging agents; FR-A-2581542 and EP-A-378936 The patent application published as: describes such derivatives.

  Salicylic acid derivatives are the main signs of skin aging, i.e., prevention or repair of fine lines and wrinkles, skin "grain" disturbance, improvement of skin color and skin firmness and tonicity. It is very advantageous to improve disappearance. However, when salicylic acid derivatives are incorporated into topical compositions as they are, the salicylic acid derivatives remain in a crystalline state without being solubilized, and as long as the use of the composition containing them is ineffective for skin treatment, these The use of derivatives causes problems.

  It is possible to use one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient or a combination of two or more cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the composition of the invention.

  In particular, the lipophilic UV filter can be preferably used as a lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient in the composition of the present invention. The following are examples of lipophilic UV filters that can be preferably used in the present invention, but are not limited to these: dibenzoylmethane derivatives called “dibenzoylmethane”, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives Cinnamic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, aminobenzophenone derivatives, anthranilic acid derivatives, β, β-diphenylacrylic acid derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, triazines, bis-resorcinyl triazines, imidazoline derivatives, Benzalmalonate, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative, benzoxazole derivative, merocyanine, diphenylbutadiene malonate or malononitriles, chalcone and a combination of two or more of the aforementioned compounds. These UV filters are known in the art. A more detailed explanation of the UV filter is given below.

  The UV filter used in the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of lipophilic UVA filters, lipophilic UVB filters, lipophilic UV filters that can act as any of UVA filters and UVB filters, and combinations thereof.

[Lipophilic UVA filter]
Examples of lipophilic UVA filters that absorb ultraviolet light in the wavelength range of 320 to 400 nm include, but are not limited to, the following compounds:
-2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4 , 4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2 -Methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane Dibenzoylmethane derivatives also called “dibenzoylmethane”.

Following formula:

Particularly preferred is 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane or butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, sold under the name “PARSOL 1789” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, having the following formula:

An aminobenzophenone derivative, such as n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, marketed under the name "UVINUL A +" by the company BASF;
-Anthranilic acid derivatives such as menthyl anthranilate marketed under the name "NEO HELIPAN MA" by Symrise; and
-4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives such as 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and diphenylbutadiene malonate and malononitriles;
-Chalcones and their derivatives, also called "chalcones".

  In particular, PARSOL 1789, UVINUL A +, or combinations thereof are particularly preferred for use as lipophilic UVA filters in the compositions of the present invention.

[Lipophilic UVB filter]
Examples of lipophilic UVB filters that absorb ultraviolet radiation in the wavelength range of 280 to 320 nm include, but are not limited to:
A paraaminobenzoic acid derivative, e.g. paraaminobenzoate (PABA), e.g. ethyl PABA (paraaminobenzoate), ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA sold under the name `` ESCALOL 597 '' by ISP;
-Salicylic acid derivatives, for example homosalate marketed under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM industries, ethylhexyl salicylate marketed under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by Symrise, under the name "DIPSAL" by SCHER Commercially available dipropylene glycol salicylate, and TEA salicylate marketed under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by Symrise;
-Cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and isopropyl methoxycinnamate marketed under the name “PARSOL CX” by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and isoamyl marketed under the name “NEO HELIOPAN E 1000” by Symrise. Methoxycinnamate, diisopropylmethylcinnamate, sinoxate and glycerylethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate;
-β, β (beta, beta) -diphenyl acrylate derivatives, for example, octocrylene marketed under the name `` UVINUL N539 '' by the company BASF and ethocrylene marketed under the name `` UNIVUL N35 '' by the company BASF;
-Benzylidene camphor derivatives, for example, 3-benzylidene camphor marketed under the name "MEXORYL SD" from CHIMEX, methylbenzylidene camphor marketed under the name "EUSOLEX 6300" by MERCK, and "MEXORYL" by CHIMEX Polyacrylamide methylbenzylidene camphor marketed under the name `` SW '' and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid marketed under the name `` Mexoryl SX '' by Chimex;
A phenylbenzimidazole derivative, for example phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, which is marketed in particular under the name “Eusolex 232” by Merck, and phenyldibenzimidazole tetramer which is marketed under the name “Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer. Disodium sulfonate;
-Triazines such as ethylhexyltriazone marketed under the name "UVINUL T150" by BASF, diethylhexylbutamide triazone marketed under the name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 2V, 2,4,6 -Tris (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4 ' -Aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane)- s-triazine;
-Imidazoline derivatives, such as ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoline propionate;
-Benzalmalonate, for example a polyorganosiloxane containing a benzalmalonate moiety, for example Polysilicone-15, di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzal sold under the name "Parsol SLX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Malonate; and
-Merocyanine, for example octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate.

  One or more selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyltriazone, diethylhexylbutamide triazone, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexylsalicylate, and ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate as a lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological component in the composition It is preferable to use a lipophilic UVB filter.

[Lipophilic UVA and UVB filters]
Lipophilic compounds that act as UVA and UVB filters can also be used in the composition with or without another UV filter. The following are non-limiting examples of UVA and UVB filters.
-Benzophenone-1 marketed under the name "UVINUL 400" by BASF, benzophenone-2 marketed under the name "UNIVUL 500" by BASF, and "UVINUL M40" by BASF. Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-6 marketed by Norquay under the name "Helisorb 11", benzophenone-8 marketed by American Cyanamid under the name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24", benzophenone- 10, benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-11, and benzophenone-12;
-Benzotriazole derivatives such as drometrizole trisiloxane marketed under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie and bumetrizole marketed under the name "TINOGUARTD AS" by CIBA-GEIGY;
-Bis-resorcinyl triazines such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenylmethoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the name "TINOSORB S" by CIBA-GEIGY; and
-2,4-bis [5- (1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) marketed under the name "Uvasorb K2A" by the company Sigma 3V ) Benzoxazole derivatives such as imino-1,3,5-triazine.

  Drometrizol trisiloxane and / or bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine can be preferably used as UVA and UVB filters in the composition of the present invention.

  The UV filters listed above can be used alone or as a combination of two or more UV filters. A combination of a UVA filter and a UVB filter can be preferably used.

  The total amount of the lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient contained in the composition of the present invention is not limited to a specific amount, but is preferably at least 5% by weight based on the total amount of the composition of the present invention. In particular, it is in the range of 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably in the range of 10% to 20% by weight.

  In the composition of the present invention, the desired active ingredient can be obtained by using one or more lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients of interest in the above amounts together with ingredients b) to e). A cosmetic and / or dermatological effect can be obtained, and the sticky feeling during use of the composition can be reduced.

b) Non-alcoholic volatile solvent The term `` non-alcoholic volatile solvent '' means that more than 95% by weight of the solvent is exposed to atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg = 1013 × 10 ⁵ Pa after contact with keratin materials such as skin or hair). ) Means a non-alcoholic solvent that can evaporate in less than 1 hour at room temperature (25 ° C.). Usually, the non-alcoholic volatile solvent is in the form of a liquid at room temperature and has a vapor pressure exceeding 0 (zero) at room temperature, specifically, a vapor pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{−3 to} 300 mmHg), More specifically, it has a vapor pressure of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), more preferably a vapor pressure of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The term “room temperature” means 25 ° C. herein.

In the present invention, a “non-alcoholic volatile solvent” different from cyclomethicone is used. This does not mean to exclude the use of cyclomethicone with a “non-alcoholic volatile solvent”. Cyclomethicone is the INCI name for a cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compound of the formula (CH ₃₎ (where, n = an 3~7) _2n O _n Si _n.

Examples of non-alcoholic volatile solvents different from cyclomethicone include, but are not limited to:
(i) hydrocarbons having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, more specifically isoalkanes having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, that is, isododecane (or 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, etc. C _{8 to} C ₁₆ (isoparaffins), for example, hydrocarbons sold under the names “Isopers” or “Permethyls”; branched esters having 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof; Shell Chemicals Petroleum distillates such as “Shell Sol T” marketed by; linear alkanes such as those described in WO2007 / 068371.
(ii) Volatile silicone oils different from cyclomethicone such as linear silicone oils, for example, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) , KF96A manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., polydimethylsiloxane, for example, sold under the names "DC 200 (1.5cSt)", "DC 200 (5cSt)", and "DC 200 (3cSt)" by Dow Corning Corporation And formula (I):
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) (R) -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (I)
[Wherein R represents a C _{2 to} C ₄ alkyl group, and one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with one or more halogen atoms selected from a fluorine atom and a chlorine atom. Good]
Linear alkyltrisiloxane. Examples of compounds of formula I are 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, each having a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group as R in formula I, 3- Propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.
(iii) fluorinated volatile oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin and perfluoroadamantane; perfluoroalkyl phosphates (monoesters, diesters and triesters); and fluorinated ester oils.

  The amount of non-alcoholic volatile solvent present in the composition of the present invention, unlike cyclomethicone, typically ranges from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 7%, based on the total amount of the composition. Although it is in the range of ˜15% by weight, it is not limited thereto.

c) Volatile alcohol The term `` volatile alcohol '' means 95 weights in less than 1 hour at room temperature (25 ° C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg = 1013 × 10 ⁵ Pa) after contact with keratinous substances such as skin or hair. It means a compound having at least one hydroxyl group, which can evaporate more than%.

Volatile alcohols are preferably used in the composition of the present invention, monoalcohol, in particular alkyl monoalcohols, especially C ₁ -C ₅ lower alkyl monoalcohol, i.e., alkyl monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as methanol, Selected from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred. Ethanol is particularly preferred. The viscosity of the volatile alcohol, when measured at a shear rate of 200 s ^-1 at 20 ° C. using a HAAKE Rheostress 600 machine having a spindle and sandblasting coatings having a diameter 60 mm, angle 2 °, 0.3~3mPa · preferably 20 ° C. The range of s.

  The amount of volatile alcohol present in the composition is not limited to a specific amount, but is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably relative to the total amount of the composition of the present invention. It is in the range of 1 to 10% by weight.

d) Wax particles The wax particles, also referred to herein as "microwax", used for the composition of the present invention are in the form of small particles, usually a wax present in the oil phase of the composition. The volume average diameter of the wax particles is preferably in the range of 0.5-30 micrometers, in particular in the range of 1-20 micrometers, more specifically in the range of 5-10 micrometers, ASTM D 4464 Measured according to By using the microwax having such an average particle size in combination with the other components b) to e) in the composition of the present invention, the sticky feeling that can be produced by the lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient is obtained. It can be efficiently reduced, and in many cases a good feeling of use of the composition can be obtained with improved spreading of the composition and a smooth feel on the skin or hair.

  The term “wax” means a compound that is solid or substantially solid at 25 ° C., and its melting point generally exceeds 35 ° C. The wax constituting the wax particles is not limited to a specific wax, and may be any type of wax such as synthetic wax and wax of natural origin. Accordingly, one or more selected from the group consisting of natural wax particles, synthetic wax particles and combinations thereof can be used in the composition of the present invention. Specifically, it is preferable to use one or more wax particles selected from the group consisting of carnauba wax particles, synthetic wax particles, polyethylene wax particles, and combinations thereof.

  Microwaxes that can be used in the composition of the present invention include those of carnauba wax having an average particle size of 6.0 to 8.0 micrometers, such as those marketed by Micro Powders under the name “MicroCare 350®”. Microwaxes; synthetic wax microwaxes having an average particle size of 6.0-8.0 micrometers, such as those sold under the name "MicroEase 114S®" by Micro Powders; average particle size 4.5 by Micro Powders, respectively Carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the name “MicroCare 300®” having an average particle size of 4.0 to 6.0 micrometers, or “MicroCare 310®” having an average particle size of 4.0 to 6.0 micrometers Microwax composed of a mixture of: Micro Pow with an average particle size of 4.5-5.5 micrometers a microwax composed of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed by ders under the name “MicroCare 325®”; and average particle size 6.0-8.0, 7.0-9.0, 8.0 respectively "Micropoly 200 (registered trademark)", "Micropoly 220 (registered trademark)", "Micropoly 220L (registered trademark)", and "Micropoly 250S (registered trademark)" And polyethylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the name ")".

  The amount of wax particles present in the composition of the present invention is not limited to a specific amount, but is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably relative to the total weight of the composition. It is in the range of 1 to 10% by weight.

e) Nonvolatile compounds having at least one hydrophilic functional group The term `` nonvolatile compounds '' means that more than 50% of the weight of the compound is at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg = 1013 × 10 5) over 3 hours after application to the keratin material. Means a compound maintained on keratin materials such as skin and hair under ⁵ Pa) at 25 ° C. The nonvolatile compound used in the present invention usually has a vapor pressure of less than 10 ⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa). The non-volatile compound preferably has an evaporation rate such that the evaporation after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm ² .

  The term “hydrophilic functional group” means a functional group that can form hydrogen bonds with water molecules. Typical examples of hydrophilic functional groups include, but are not limited to, amino groups and carboxyl groups, including hydroxyl groups or alcohol groups, primary, secondary and tertiary amino groups. Can do. For use as component e), non-volatile compounds having two or more hydroxyl groups are preferred, and those having 2 to 12 carbon atoms are particularly preferred. Examples of preferred non-volatile compounds having at least one hydrophilic functional group include glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, isoprene glycol, diglycerin, pentylene glycol. Hexylene glycol, sorbitol, mannitol, D-glucose, sucrose, D-fructose, xylitol, lactose, maltose, maltitol, trehalose, hydroxyethylurea, and combinations of two or more of the aforementioned compounds.

  The amount of the non-volatile compound having at least one hydrophilic functional group present in the composition of the present invention is not limited to a specific amount, but is preferably 0.5 to 20 with respect to the total amount of the composition. It is in the range of wt%, more preferably in the range of 1-10 wt%.

f) Other components The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase is generally added to the cosmetic or dermatological composition in addition to the components a) to e). One or more additional ingredients used may optionally be included.

  Examples of such additional ingredients include, but are not limited to, fatty substances; organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; softeners; wetting agents; Agents; Stabilizers; Preservatives; Emollients; Silicones; Defoamers; Fragrances; Preservatives; Anionic, Cationic, Nonionic, Zwitterionic or Amphoteric Surfactants Active in hydrophilic cosmetics or dermatology; fillers; polymers; propellants; acidifying or basifying agents; pigments; pigments; inorganic photoprotective agents; and generally in cosmetic or dermatological compositions Mention may be made of conventional cosmetic additives selected from any other ingredients used.

The fatty substance can be an oil. The term “oil” means a compound that is a lipophilic liquid at room temperature. Oils include mineral oils (paraffins); vegetable oils (sweet almond oils, macadamia oils, grape seed oils or jojoba oils); synthetic oils such as perhydrosqualene, fatty alcohols, fatty acids or fatty acid esters (eg “Witconol by Witco” C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate sold under the name "Finsolv TN" of TN ", octyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, triglycerides, including isopropyl lanolate and capric / caprylic acid triglycerides), such as dicaprylyl carbonate Mention may be made of dialkyl carbonates, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty acid esters and ethers; silicone oils (polydimethylsiloxanes such as cyclomethicone and dimethicone) or fluorine oils and polyalkylenes. Oils containing at least one amide structure such as those disclosed in US 7,357,920 (the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference) can also be used.

  Optionally, the composition of the present invention includes one or more thickeners selected from the group consisting of hydrophilic thickeners and lipophilic thickeners to improve their rheological properties. Can be added.

Hydrophilic thickeners include carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbopol products (carbomers) and Pemulen products (acrylate / C _10-13 -alkyl acrylate copolymers); polyacrylamides such as “Sepigel 305” (CTFA name by SEPPIC) Cross-linked copolymer marketed under the name polyacrylamide / C _13-14 isoparaffin / laureth 7) or “Simulgel 600” (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80); Or 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, which may be neutralized, for example marketed by the company Hoechst under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) Poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropyl) Derivatives based on cellulose such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; pan acid) polysaccharides, in particular, gums such as xanthan gum; may be mentioned, and mixtures thereof.

  As lipophilic thickeners, mention may be made of modified clays such as hectorite and their derivatives, for example the products marketed under the name “Bentone”.

  In the composition of the present invention, in addition to the components a) to e), hydrophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients can be optionally used. As used herein, the term “hydrophilic” active ingredient means that the active ingredient can be dissolved in the aqueous phase of the composition or can be dispersed in the aqueous phase of the composition in colloidal form, such as in micellar form. . Hydrophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients known in the art, such as ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, can be used.

  Fillers or polymers that can be added to the composition of the present invention include, but are not limited to, natural fibers such as silk, cellulose, and wool; polyamides also referred to as “Nylon®”, And synthetic fibers such as rayon; and particles or beads of polymers such as polyamide, polyacrylate, and polymethylsilsesquioxane.

  As described above, the inorganic photoprotective agent can be used together with a lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient. The inorganic photoprotective agent used in the present invention is more preferably selected from among pigments, for example, nano-pigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in the form of rutile and / or anatase), iron oxide Treated or untreated metal oxide nanopigments, such as nanopigments, zinc oxide nanopigments, zirconium oxide nanopigments or cerium oxide nanopigments (average primary particle size: generally 5nm to 100nm, preferably , 10 nm to 50 nm).

  The treated nanopigments are, for example, compounds described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, 105, 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins , Fatty acid sodium salt, potassium salt, zinc salt, iron salt or aluminum salt, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxide, polyethylene, silicone, protein (collagen or elastin), alkanolamine, silicon oxide, metal oxide, sodium hexametaphosphate Pigments that have been subjected to one or more surface treatments of chemical, electrical, mechanochemical and / or mechanical properties with alumina or glycerol.

  Many specific pigments and nanopigments that can be used are disclosed in US 7,357,920, which is incorporated by reference in its entirety.

  At least one agent that results in artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin can also be used in the composition.

[Composition of the composition of the present invention]
The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase. Each phase contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Specifically, the aqueous phase contains water. The physiologically acceptable medium of the oil phase is generally selected from fatty substances such as oil as described above.

  The compositions of the invention can be prepared according to general methods known in the art, in particular according to methods intended for the preparation of emulsions. The composition is in particular in the form of a simple or complex emulsion, e.g. oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O), oil-in-water-in- oil) (O / W / O) or water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsions, preferably water-in-oil or It can be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. If one or more components contained in the composition tend to separate over time, it may be advantageous to mix the composition uniformly before use.

  The compositions of the present invention can be in any desired form including, but not limited to, creams, lotions, emulsions, water-in-oil fluids, gels, and cream-gels. Absent. The composition can also be packaged as an aerosol with a propellant and in the form of a mousse or spray.

  The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) or a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion). The composition of the present invention in the form of a water-in-oil fluid can have excellent sensory characteristics such as extremely light applicability at the time of use without giving the skin and / or hair a sticky feeling. Emulsions are most preferred.

  Emulsion preparation methods are known in the art. Those skilled in the art can use any desired method. Furthermore, emulsifiers selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic emulsifiers or a mixture of two or more emulsifiers can be used in the preparation of the emulsion.

  Emulsifying surfactants that can be used to prepare the compositions of the invention in the form of W / O emulsions include sorbitan, glycerol or sugar alkyl esters or ethers; silicone surfactants such as “DC 5225 C” by Dow Corning Dimethicone copolyols such as a mixture of cyclomethicone and methicone copolyol marketed under the name and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as lauryl methicone copolyol marketed under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning. Cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone and products marketed under the name “Abil EM 90®” by the company Goldschmidt and under the name “Abil WE 09” by the company Goldschmidt. Commercially available cetyl dimethicone copolyol, isosite And a mixture of polyglyceryl (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate. One or more coemulsifiers can also be added to this, which can advantageously be selected from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. Polyol alkyl esters include in particular glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, such as polyglyceryl isothiateate, for example the product marketed under the name `` Isolan GI 34 '' by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, for example `` Arlacel by the company ICI Mention may be made of the product sold under the name “987”, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, for example the product sold under the name “Arlacel 986” by ICI, and mixtures thereof.

  In the case of O / W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers include oxyalkylenated (more specifically, polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; polyoxyethyl dipolyhydroxystearate such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate Glycol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acid ester; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alkyl ether; sugar Esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alkyl ethers of sugars, in particular decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed under the names `` Plantaren 2000 '' and `` Plantaren 1200 '' respectively by the company Henkel, in some cases, for example, By SEPPIC Cetostearyl glucoside as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol marketed under the name “Montanov 68”, under the name “Tegocare CG90” by Goldschmidt and under the name “Emulgade KE3302” by Henkel, for example SEPPIC Polyalkyl glucosides (APG) such as arachidyl glucoside in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name “Montanov 202” by; and polypropylene glycol blocks such as “poloxamer 407” and polyethylene Nonionic emulsifiers such as block copolymers having glycol blocks can be mentioned.

  The composition of the invention in the form of an emulsion is typically an aqueous phase comprising water and a hydrophilic component in a suitable physiologically acceptable medium such as an oil, preferably in the presence of a surfactant. And an oily phase containing a lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient. When mixing the aqueous and oil phases to prepare the emulsion, conventional methods and equipment known in the art for preparing emulsions can be used.

  The composition of the present invention is a personal care product such as a cosmetic comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients for making up, care and / or protecting the skin, lips and / or hair, and quasi-drugs. Can be used in a wide range of applications such as dermatological compositions such as products and pharmaceutical compositions containing one or more lipophilic dermatological active ingredients.

In the most preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention in the form of an emulsion comprises
A) One or more lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients as described above as component a) in a total amount of 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 30% by weight, more preferably UV filters ;
B) Dimethicone as component b) in an amount of 5-20% by weight;
C) ethanol as component c) in an amount of 1-15% by weight, preferably 3-10% by weight;
D) from component waxes, natural wax particles and combinations thereof having a volume average diameter in the range of 0.5 to 30 micrometers, preferably 1 to 20 micrometers, more preferably 5 to 10 micrometers as component d) Wax particles selected;
E) Glycerol as component e) in an amount of 1-15% by weight, preferably 3-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The composition of the present invention provides a feeling of use without stickiness without using volatile cyclomethicone, which is well known as a component that improves the feeling of use. It can be provided with a smooth feel. Thus, in another embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises only volatile cyclomethicone in an amount of less than 1% by weight of the total composition, preferably no volatile cyclomethicone.

  In addition, in a further embodiment, the present invention provides cosmetic or dermatological use in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase by using a combination of the aforementioned components b), c), d) and e). Provided is a method for reducing the stickiness that can be caused by lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients contained in a composition. In this method, cosmetics or dermatology with less stickiness by using a small amount of volatile cyclomethicone, such as less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or without using any volatile cyclomethicone A composition can be obtained.

  In order to further illustrate the invention and the advantages of the invention, the following specific examples are given. It should be understood that these examples are provided by way of illustration only and are not limiting. In these examples, all parts and percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated.

(Example)
(Example 1)
Sunscreen Lotion Agent A sunscreen composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion was prepared by using the ingredients shown in Table 1 below. The compositions (Examples) of the present invention include, among other ingredients, particles, modified alcohol, and synthetic waxes in the form of glycerin. However, none of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 includes any of them.

  “Concentration%” in Table 1 indicates “wt%”.

  A “synthetic wax” is a synthetic hydrocarbon wax in the form of spherical particles having an average diameter of 6-8 μm, that is, a volume average diameter, as measured according to ASTM D4464.

The preparation methods of the compositions according to the examples and the comparative examples are as follows.
The aqueous phase (Phase C) was prepared by mixing all ingredients for Phase C listed in Table 1 at room temperature. The oil phase (Phase A) was prepared by mixing all ingredients for Phase A listed in Table 1 at 65 ° C. in a turbine mixer with a turbine type impeller. After cooling phase A to room temperature, phase C was added to phase A and the resulting mixture was emulsified by using a turbine mixer to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion composition. The resulting emulsion composition was then cooled to room temperature. By introducing and mixing the powder phase (phase B) into the emulsion using a turbine mixer, the powder, ie, the wax particles, was dispersed in the emulsion to obtain an emulsion composition containing the wax particles.

[Evaluation of Examples and Comparative Examples]
Five expert panelists evaluated the “matte effect”, “non-slippery effect” and “feel after use” of the examples and comparative examples. Each panelist picks up each sample and then applies different products to the right and left sides of the face to evaluate each sample's matte, non-slick, and good feel after use, Each effect is scored from 1 (bad) to 5 (excellent), and then this is based on the average value of the grade: 4 (excellent) (5.0-4.0), (good) ( 3.9 to 3.0), “possible” (2.9 to 2.0), or “bad” (1.9 to 1.0). In these evaluations of the examples and comparative examples, “excellent” for “matte effect” means that the applied lotion exhibits no or only a slight glossy appearance. “Excellent” for “non-slicking effect” means that the composition has a smooth feel but can be spread smoothly on the skin without being too slimy. “Excellent” in “good feel after use” means that the lotion does not give an unpleasant stickiness and gives a good feel on the skin.

  These results are shown in Table 2.

  As shown in Table 2, the use of the composition of the present invention is uncomfortable as compared with Comparative Examples 1 to 3, even though it contains a lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient that can cause stickiness when used. It is possible to obtain an excellent matting effect and non-smoothing effect without giving a sticky feeling and a good feel after use. These results show that by using the combination of components a) to e) in the composition in the form of an emulsion, the stickiness that can be caused by the lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient a) contained in the composition. It is clearly shown that can be reduced.

  Furthermore, it has been found that the composition of the present invention can easily spread evenly on the skin or hair.

  The above results obtained by using components b) to e) together with component a) in a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion show that when a lipophilic UV filter is used as the active component a) It is not limited. The effects of the present invention can be obtained with any lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.

Claims (5)

a) one or more lipophilic UV filters of at least 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition;
b) a non-alcoholic volatile solvent different from cyclomethicone, selected from the group consisting of linear or branched hydrocarbons having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, volatile linear silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, and 25 A non-alcoholic volatile solvent having a vapor pressure of 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) at ° C ;
c) a volatile alcohol selected from the group consisting of alkyl monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms in an amount of 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition ;
d) wax particles having a volume average diameter in the range of 5 to 10 micrometers, in an amount in the range of 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition ; and
e) Nonvolatile compounds having at least one hydrophilic functional group in an amount of 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition
Including
The wax particles are prepared in advance in the form of particles before mixing with the other components of the composition, and the non-volatile compound e) having at least one hydrophilic functional group is glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, isoprene glycol, diglycerin, pentylene glycol, and a compound selected from hexylene glycol or Ranaru group, or the compound A combination of two or more,
And contains no volatile cyclomethicone in an amount of less than 1% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition, or no volatile cyclomethicone,
A cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase. Further comprising one or more additional ingredients, said additional ingredients being fatty substances; organic solvents; ionic or non-ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; softeners; wetting agents; opacifiers; Stabilizers; preservatives; emollients; silicones; antifoams; fragrances; anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants; active ingredients for hydrophilic cosmetics or dermatology The composition of claim 1, selected from the group consisting of: filler; polymer; propellant; acidifying or basifying agent; pigment; dye; inorganic photoprotective agent. The composition according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the wax particles d) are selected from the group consisting of natural wax particles, synthetic wax particles and combinations thereof. The composition according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the wax particles d) are selected from the group consisting of carnauba wax particles, synthetic wax particles, polyethylene wax particles and combinations thereof. A) one or more UV filters as component a) in a total amount of 5% to 30% by weight;
B) Dimethicone as component b) in an amount of 5% to 20% by weight;
C) ethanol as component c) in an amount of 1% to 15% by weight;
D) Wax particles selected from synthetic wax particles, natural wax particles and combinations thereof having a volume average diameter in the range of 5 to 10 micrometers as component d);
E) comprising glycerol as component e) in an amount of 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total amount of the composition,
The UV filter is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyltriazone, diethylhexylbutamide triazone, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexylsalicylate, and ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate;
And, with respect to the total weight of the or composition contains no cyclomethicone containing an amount of cyclomethicone less than 1 wt%, the composition according to claim 1 or 2.