JP5711457B2 - Oil-in-oil cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to an oil-in-oil cosmetic, and more particularly to an oil-in-oil cosmetic that has excellent transfer resistance and good stability.

  The conventional lipstick composition has a problem of secondary adhesion in which after the lipstick is applied to the lips, the lipstick is transferred to a portion such as a cup that contacts the lips. On the other hand, cosmetics for lips have been developed that have a so-called secondary adhesion-less effect that hardly causes secondary adhesion. For such lip cosmetics, transfer-resistant cosmetics (lipsticks) that have a secondary adhesion-less effect on the lipstick itself and lipsticks applied on top of the lipstick are applied to give lip gloss. Transfer-resistant cosmetics (such as lipstick overcoats or lip coats) that give the next adhesion-less effect are included.

  Many conventional transfer-resistant cosmetics impart a secondary adhesion-less effect by blending a fluorine-based material, but when blended with a fluorine-based oil, the feeling of use may be inferior and cost But there was a problem. Recently, products have been proposed in which volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils are combined in various combinations to exhibit a secondary adhesion-less effect.

  For example, in Patent Document 1, a volatile hydrocarbon solvent, a non-volatile silicone compound that can be dissolved or dispersed in a volatile hydrocarbon solvent, and a non-volatile silicone compound that is incompatible with a non-volatile silicone compound dissolved in a volatile solvent. Transfer-resistant cosmetic compositions are disclosed that contain a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having certain solubility parameters. However, this transfer-resistant cosmetic composition has room for improvement in terms of stability, and since the amount of wax is large, a liquid-like feeling of use cannot be obtained and the gloss is insufficient.

  Patent Document 2 discloses a one-phase lipstick composition containing a volatile oil and a silicone resin. However, although this lipstick composition has improved transfer resistance, a dry feeling tends to occur over time after the volatile oil evaporates, and a resin film remains on the lips, resulting in a feeling of film and tension. And the resulting deposit may have the disadvantage of being a mat.

  Patent Document 3 includes a continuous phase oil containing a silicone film agent, a volatile silicone oil, a non-volatile silicone liquid oil, and an emulsifier, and a dispersed phase oil containing an ester oil and a coloring material. An oil-in-oil emulsion composition in which the blending ratio of phase oil / (dispersed phase oil + continuous phase oil) is 0.05 to 0.5 is described. However, this oil-in-oil emulsion composition has weak adhesion to the lipstick after phase separation, and furthermore, it may be difficult to maintain stability over time in this system.

JP 2001-199846 A JP-A-9-48709 JP 2000-53530 A

  In the conventional transfer-resistant cosmetics as described above, the transfer resistance obtained is not sufficient, and the emulsion stability of the composition also has a problem. Then, the subject in this invention is providing the oil-in-oil type cosmetics which were excellent also in stability while having the outstanding transfer resistance (secondary adhesion-less effect).

  As a result of diligent research, the inventors of the present invention contain a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and a non-volatile silicone oil that are not compatible with each other in a predetermined ratio, and further include (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl. It was found that an oil-in-oil type cosmetic composition having an extremely stable oil-in-oil composition, excellent in transfer resistance after coating, and having good spread and gloss upon coating was obtained.

That is, the present invention
(A) Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil: 1 to 70% by mass,
(B) Non-volatile silicone oil: 5 to 90% by mass, and (c) (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl: 0.1 to 10% by mass,
The blending ratio (mass ratio) of (a) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and (b) non-volatile silicone oil is 0.3 or less (a) / [(a) + (b)]. An oil-in-oil type cosmetic characterized by the above is provided.

  The oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention is extremely excellent in transfer resistance after application (secondary adhesion-less effect), glossy after application, good spreading during application, and excellent stability. is there.

  Examples of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (component a) used in the cosmetic of the present invention include hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, polyisobutylene, polyisoprene, liquid paraffin, squalane, hydrogenated polydecene, and petrolatum. Of these, polybutene is particularly preferable, and polybutene having a molecular weight of 1000 to 2650 is more preferable.

  The compounding amount of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is 1 to 70% by mass, preferably 5 to 60% by mass, more preferably 10 to 50% by mass. If the blended amount of the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is less than 1% by mass, it may lack moistness. If it exceeds 70% by mass, the spread becomes heavy, the stickiness increases, and the transfer resistance tends to deteriorate. is there.

  The non-volatile silicone oil (component b) used in the cosmetic of the present invention may be any one that is not compatible with the hydrocarbon oil, and the oil depending on the type of the hydrocarbon oil blended at the same time. It is appropriately selected from those capable of forming a middle oil type emulsion. Examples of such non-volatile silicone oils include methylphenyl polysiloxane, dimethicone, and fluorine-modified alkyl silicone. Among these, methylphenyl polysiloxane is particularly preferable, and methylphenyl polysiloxane having a viscosity of 300 to 500 cs is more preferable.

  The compounding quantity of a non-volatile silicone type oil component is 5-90 mass%, Preferably it is 10-80 mass%, More preferably, it is 30-80 mass%. When the blending amount of the non-volatile silicone oil is less than 5% by mass, the transfer resistance tends to be fixed, and when it is more than 90% by mass, the gloss increases, but it may easily peel off over time.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the blending ratio (mass ratio) of (a) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and (b) non-volatile silicone oil is (a) / [(a) + (b) ] Is 0.3 or less.
The cosmetic of the present invention comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and a non-volatile silicone-based oil blended at the above ratio and emulsified, thereby allowing the silicone-based oil to be contained in the outer phase (continuous layer) and the hydrocarbon-based oil. It takes the form of an oil-in-oil emulsified composition as an internal phase (dispersed phase).

  For example, when using an oil-in-oil emulsion composition as a lipstick overcoat, the composition needs to have a certain degree of viscosity in order to exhibit adhesion and transfer resistance, and a thickener is incorporated. It is common that According to a study by the present inventors, when an oil-in-oil emulsion composition having a hydrocarbon oil component as an outer phase and a silicone oil component as an inner phase is applied to a lip coated with a lipstick, It has been found that the oil tends to dissolve the lipstick, reduce the viscosity of the outer phase, and weaken the adhesion. On the other hand, when the silicone oil component is used as the outer phase and the hydrocarbon oil component is used as the inner phase as in the present invention, the lipstick component does not dissolve into the overcoat during coating. After application, phase separation occurs by rubbing the lips or volatilizing volatile components, the hydrocarbon oil adheres to the lipstick surface, and the silicone oil covers it, which reduces the viscosity. It is thought that a film having excellent adhesion without forming occurs.

  The cosmetic of the present invention contains (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl (component c) as an essential component in addition to the components (a) and (b). It is considered that (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl in the cosmetic of the present invention contributes to an improvement in the stability of the emulsion constituting the cosmetic.

  Glyceryl (behenic acid / eicosandioic acid) used in the present invention is obtained by esterifying glycerin, behenic acid and eicosanedioic acid, and is not particularly limited. For example, glycerin, behenic acid and A mixture obtained by esterifying eicosanedioic acid at a charging ratio of 10: 15: 7 is preferably used. Moreover, it is also possible to use a commercial item and can mention Nomu coat HK-G by Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.

  The blending amount of (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl in the cosmetic of the present invention is 0.1 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 8% by mass, more preferably 1 to 6% by mass. When the amount of (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl is less than 0.1% by mass, sufficient stability cannot be obtained, and when it is more than 10% by mass, elongation may be deteriorated.

  The cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains a sugar fatty acid ester. By blending a sugar fatty acid ester, transfer resistance, spreading of cosmetics, and gloss after application can be further improved.

  The sugar fatty acid ester is not particularly limited, but is preferably a dextrin fatty acid ester such as an ester of dextrin and a higher fatty acid, wherein the higher fatty acid is selected from those having C12 to C22 carbon atoms. As a higher fatty acid, as long as it contains a C12-C22 fatty acid, it may partially contain a C6-10 fatty acid. Examples of dextrin fatty acid esters include dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, and (palmitic acid / ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin, and commercially available products include Rheopearl KL, Leopard KL2, Leopard TT, Leopard TT2, Leopearl MKL2, Leopearl ISK2, etc. (both are manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.) and the like. Examples of sugars other than dextrin include inulin, starch, cellulose, hyaluronic acid, and the like, and fatty acid esters thereof can be prepared according to a method described in, for example, JP-A-2006-265544.

  When the sugar fatty acid ester is blended, the blending amount is 0.1 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 8% by mass, more preferably 1 to 5% by mass. If the amount of the sugar fatty acid ester is less than 0.1% by mass, the desired effect cannot be obtained, and if it is more than 10% by mass, stickiness occurs.

The cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains silicic anhydride. By blending silicic anhydride, the elongation and gloss at the time of application are further improved. As the silicic anhydride, ultrafine silicic anhydride having an average primary particle diameter of 1 to 50 nm is preferable, and examples thereof include Aerosil 200, 300, R972, R974, RY200 (made by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.). The silicic anhydride used in the present invention may be hydrophilic or hydrophobized such as silylation.
A preferable blending amount when silicic anhydride is blended is 10% by mass or less, preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass.

In this invention, you may mix | blend the various components used for normal oily cosmetics other than the above.
For example, by further blending volatile hydrocarbons, the spread at the time of application is further improved. The volatile hydrocarbon is preferably soluble in both (a) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and (b) a non-volatile silicone oil. For example, a volatile oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and Mention may be made of mixtures thereof. In particular, these volatile hydrocarbons are selected from branched C8-C16 alkanes, branched C8-C16 esters and mixtures thereof. Such volatile hydrocarbons are preferably C8-C16 isoparaffins obtained from petroleum in particular, and commercially available products include “Isopar” (isoparaffinic solvent, manufactured by Exxon), “Permethyl 99A, Permethyl 101A "(sold by Nippon Koken Kogyo Co., Ltd., EC Eldorchemie). In particular, isododecane or isohexadecane, isohexyl neopentanoate and a mixture thereof are preferable, and isododecane is more preferable. The preferable compounding quantity in the case of mix | blending a volatile hydrocarbon is 0.1-50 mass%, Preferably it is 1-30 mass%.

  In addition, when semi-solid oil or microcrystalline wax is blended, the stickiness after application is further reduced, and the cosmetic durability is further improved. The semi-solid oil specifically refers to a semi-solid oil having a hardness at 25 ° C. of 0.1 to 10N. For the measurement of the hardness, values measured with a rheometer manufactured by Rheotech Co., Ltd. with a pressure sensitive axis of 5φ, a penetration speed of 2 cm / min, and a penetration depth of 3 mm were used. Therefore, high viscosity liquid oil such as polybutene, hardened castor oil, hard oil at room temperature such as hard lanolin is not included.

  The melting point of the semi-solid oil is preferably 30 to 52 ° C. The melting point is measured by the third method described in the cosmetic raw material standards. That is, first, the sample is gradually heated to 90 to 92 ° C. with thorough stirring and melted, the heating is stopped, and the sample is allowed to cool to a temperature 8 to 10 ° C. higher than the melting point. Next, after cooling the thermometer (the thermometer for melting point of petrolatum stipulated in Japanese Industrial Standard B7410) to 5 ° C, wipe the water with filter paper, insert half of the mercury bulb into the sample, immediately take it out and keep it vertical. Allow to cool, and when the adhering sample becomes turbid, soak in water at a temperature of 16 ° C. or lower for 5 minutes. Next, a thermometer is inserted into the test tube (25 × 100 mm), and the thermometer is fixed using a cork so that the space is 15 mm between the lower end of the thermometer and the bottom of the test tube. The test tube was fixed in a 500 mL beaker containing water at about 16 ° C. so that the distance between the bottom of the test tube and the bottom of the beaker was 15 mm, and 1 minute until the bath temperature reached 30 ° C. Heat to 2 ° C. Next, heating is continued to increase by 1 ° C. per minute, and the temperature when one drop of the sample is separated from the thermometer is measured. This test is performed three times. When the difference between the measured values is less than 1 ° C., the average value is taken. When the difference is 1 ° C. or higher, the average value is taken five times to obtain the melting point.

  Semi-solid oils include vaseline, lanolin, shea fat, partially hydrogenated coconut oil, and other oils that are usually used in cosmetics, as well as dimer linoleic acid esters, alcohol residues, Examples include dimer linoleic acid, phytosterol, and higher alcohol esters containing a phytosteryl group and a linear higher alcohol residue having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Dimerlinoleic acid esters include dimerlinoleic acid (phytosteryl / behenyl) (trade name: Plandool-PB), dimerlinoleic acid (phytosteryl / behenyl / stearyl / cetyl / isostearyl) (trade name: Plandool-H, Plandool-S), dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl (phytosteryl / behenyl / isostearyl) (trade name: Plandool-G) and the like. Further, tetra (behenic acid / ethyl benzoate) hexaerythritol, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl 6-esters behenate, and the like can also be used. Furthermore, the following commercially available products may be used. “Cosmall 168EV / M / AR” (manufactured by Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.), “YOFCO-MAS”, “SOFTISAN649” (manufactured by Sasol), and “El Deu PS-304” (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.).

Of these, petroleum jelly and tetra (behenic acid / ethyl hexanoic acid benzoate) pentaerythritol are particularly preferable in terms of non-stickiness and long-lasting makeup. The compounding amount of the semi-solid oil is preferably 3 to 30% by mass, more preferably 6 to 20% by mass.
The blending amount of the microcrystalline wax is preferably 0.5 to 6% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 4% by mass.

  When the cosmetic of the present invention is used as a lipstick, a color material is blended in addition to the above components. The color material may be any color material commonly used for lipsticks, and may be in the form of powder or rake (a state in which oil is kneaded). Whether it is an inorganic pigment, an organic pigment, or a pearling agent, it is easier to get wet with hydrocarbon oils than with silicone oils. It shifts to the hydrocarbon-based oil that is. As a compounding quantity of a coloring material, it is 0.01-30 mass%, Preferably, it is 0.1-20 mass%.

In addition, oils, waxes, powders, pigments, dyes, polymer compounds, humectants, fragrances, surfactants, antioxidants, preservatives, cosmetic ingredients, and the like are appropriately blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. be able to.
Examples of the humectant include polyhydric alcohol humectants such as glycerin, propylene glycol, and 1,3 butylene glycol.
The wax can be blended, but since blending in a large amount impairs gloss, the blending amount is desirably 5% by mass or less even if blended.
Moreover, about a film | membrane agent, since a large amount mix | blend produces a feeling of stickiness, it is desirable not to mix | blend or to mix | blend 5 mass% or less even if mix | blended.

  The oil-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention can be provided in the form of lipstick, lip gloss, lip base for base, lipstick overcoat (lip coat), lip balm, eye gloss, teak, etc. When used as a coat, the advantageous effects of the present invention are easily exhibited.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, unless otherwise specified, the blending amount is indicated by mass%.
Examples 1-9, Comparative Examples 1-2
Lipstick overcoats were prepared according to the formulations shown in Tables 1 and 2 below, and the usability (spreading during application, gloss and transfer resistance) and separation stability were evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are also shown in Tables 1 and 2.

(1) Usability evaluation test An actual usability test was conducted by 10 specialist panels. Usability items were spread, gloss and transfer resistance at the time of application, and each evaluation item was subjected to a five-step sensory evaluation (score) based on the following evaluation point criteria. Based on the average score, the following evaluation criteria were used.

  The coating method was carried out by applying the cosmetics of the examples and comparative examples to the lips, then rubbing the upper and lower lips and applying pressure for about 5 seconds. The evaluation of the transfer resistance was based on the evaluation of the absence of transfer to the cup, and the spread and gloss at the time of application were determined by a sensory test by each specialized panel and by visual observation.

(Score)
5 points: Excellent.
4 points: Excellent.
3 points: Normal.
2 points: Inferior.
1 point: Very inferior.

(Evaluation criteria)
◎: Evaluation value (average value) 4.0 or more and 5.0 points or less ○: Evaluation value (average value) 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 points △: Evaluation value (average value) 2.0 or more and 3.0 points Less than x: Evaluation value (average value) 1.0 or more and less than 2.0 points

(2) Separation stability evaluation test Separation stability in the container used was evaluated by the following method.
(Evaluation method)
Formulations having the compositions described in the table were prepared by a conventional method, placed in a bottle container with an applicator, used twice a day, and evaluated after continuous use for 1 week.

(Evaluation criteria)
A: No separation at all and uniform.
○: Some separation was observed, but it was at a level where there was no problem in use.
Δ: Separation was observed and color unevenness occurred.
X: It was completely separated.

Cosmetics of Examples 1 to 9 containing (a) a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, (b) a non-volatile silicone oil, and (c) (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl in a predetermined blending ratio of the present application. Had good separation and gloss, excellent transfer resistance, and excellent separation stability with no problems in use. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 and 2 not containing (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl were completely separated and particularly lacked in separation stability.
Moreover, compared with Example 8 and 9 which does not contain dextrin fatty acid ester and silicic acid anhydride, in Examples 1-6 which mix | blended them, the spreading | diffusion, gloss, and transfer resistance further improved.

  Below, the formulation example of the oil-in-oil type cosmetics of this invention is given. Needless to say, the present invention is not limited by these formulation examples and is specified by the scope of claims.

Example 10: Transparent gloss blending component
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 22
Methylphenylpolysiloxane 52
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 4
(Behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) Glyceryl 3
Paraffin wax 2
Silica 1.5
Silylated silica 0.5
(Manufacturing method): The above components were dissolved by heating and dispersed by stirring.

Example 11: Lip base compounding ingredients
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 22
Methylphenylpolysiloxane 52
Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 13
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 4
(Behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) Glyceryl 3
Paraffin wax 2
Mica 2
Silica 1.5
Silylated silica 0.5
(Manufacturing method): The above components were dissolved by heating and dispersed by stirring.

Claims (5)

(A) Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil: 1 to 70% by mass,
(B) Non-volatile silicone oil: 5 to 90% by mass, and (c) (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl: 0.1 to 10% by mass,
The blending ratio (mass ratio) of (a) non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and (b) non-volatile silicone oil is such that (a) / [(a) + (b)] is 0.3 or less. Oil-in-oil type cosmetics characterized by being in range. The cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising a sugar fatty acid ester. The cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising silicic anhydride. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising a coloring material. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is a lipstick overcoat.