JP5475247B2 - Emulsified cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to emulsified cosmetics containing phospholipids, lysophospholipids, vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof, oleic acid derivatives, and water. More specifically, the present invention has a good penetration to the skin, less stickiness, The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic that is highly effective in improving the firmness of the skin and that has excellent storage stability. Among them, the present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic that is particularly effective in improving the firmness of the skin.

  Phospholipids and lysophospholipids are widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields as ecologically related components, and are particularly used as dispersants, emulsifiers, moisturizers, and antioxidants (see, for example, Non-Patent Document 1). . The emulsified cosmetic can emulsify various oily components according to the purpose and can impart various functions such as moisturizing and softening. For example, there is a technique using vitamin E as an antioxidant (for example, see Patent Document 1), and an oleic acid derivative has a technique for improving the firmness of the skin (for example, see Patent Document 2).

On the other hand, there is a technology that gives a sense of elasticity by blending water-soluble polymers, higher alcohols, liquid oils, paste oils, solid oils, powders and the like into emulsified cosmetics.
For example, as a technology that gives a firm feeling by a synergistic effect between a drug and a base material, a technology that combines polyvinyl alcohol as a water-soluble polymer with natto extract (for example, see Patent Document 3), 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine and There exists a technique (for example, refer patent document 4) combined with the extract of Mokutsu or Astragalus.
In addition, as a technique for giving a sense of elasticity only with a base material, a technique combining an alkylene oxide polymer and a water-soluble polyhydric alcohol (for example, see Patent Document 5), a highly polymerized silicone oil as a liquid oil (for example, Patent Document) 6), technology using vaseline and olive leaf extract as a paste oil, kneaded product having an emulsifier (see, for example, Patent Document 7), higher alcohol and specific ester oil, glycerin fatty acid ester, hydrophilic polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester There is a technique (for example, see Patent Document 8) that combines the above.
In addition, for the purpose of stably emulsifying vitamin Es, a method using a specific quaternary ammonium salt and an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer (see, for example, Patent Document 9), sucrose fatty acid ester and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, Polyglycerin fatty acid esters (see, for example, Patent Document 10) have been used.

"Development and application of functional lipids", CMC, published on March 2, 1992, p292 JP 2003-160463 A Japanese Patent No. 3729789 Japanese Patent No. 3641366 JP 2001-64151 A JP 2004-300909 A JP 2005-8540 A JP 2005-272341 A JP 2006-29883 A International Publication No. 97/02803 Pamphlet International Publication No. 05/034913 Pamphlet

  However, the emulsified cosmetics using the techniques in Patent Documents 4, 5, and 8 are not durable although the firmness of the skin immediately after application is obtained, and the emulsified cosmetics using the technique of Patent Document 3 are not It was sticky and was not satisfactory in terms of feel. Moreover, the emulsified cosmetics using the techniques of Patent Documents 6 and 7 are not well-adapted to the skin and have insufficient penetration. Furthermore, the emulsified cosmetic using the technique of Patent Document 8 has insufficient safety for skin, and the emulsified cosmetic using the technique of Patent Document 9 has insufficient storage stability.

  From the above, there has been a demand for the development of emulsified cosmetics that have good penetration into the skin, less sticky feeling, high effects of improving the firmness of the skin, and excellent storage stability.

  In the present invention, by containing phospholipids, lysophospholipids, vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof, oleic acid derivatives, and water, the effect of improving penetration into the skin, less stickiness, and improving the firmness of the skin It is an object to develop and provide an emulsified cosmetic material that is high in storage stability and excellent in storage stability. Among these, it is an object to develop and provide an emulsified cosmetic that is particularly effective in improving the firmness of the skin.

  Under such circumstances, the present inventor has intensively studied, and as a result, emulsified cosmetics containing phospholipids, lysophospholipids, vitamin E and / or derivatives thereof, oleic acid derivatives, and water have good permeation to the skin and are sticky. Therefore, the present inventors have found that the effect of improving the firmness of the skin is high, the storage stability is excellent, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (a) to (e);
(A) Phospholipid (b) Lysophospholipid (c) Vitamin E and / or its derivative (d) Oleic acid derivative (e) It is related with the emulsified cosmetic characterized by containing water.

  The present invention also relates to an emulsified cosmetic, wherein the blending mass ratio (a) / (b) of the component (a) and the component (b) is 0.2 to 20.

  In addition, the present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic, wherein the blending mass ratio (c) / (d) of the component (c) and the component (d) is 0.1-50.

  The blending mass ratio (a) + (b) / (c) + (d) of the component (a) + (b) and the component (c) + (d) is 0.1 to 10. The present invention relates to a characteristic emulsified cosmetic.

  In addition, the present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic, wherein the component (e) oleic acid derivative is ethyl oleate, sorbitan monooleate, or sorbitan sesquioleate.

  The emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention has a good permeation to the skin, less stickiness, a high effect of improving the firmness of the skin, and a quality excellent in storage stability. Among these, it has a high quality that is particularly effective in improving the firmness of the skin.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The phospholipid of component (a) of the present invention is used in ordinary cosmetics, such as soybean-derived phospholipid, soybean-derived hydrogenated phospholipid, egg yolk-derived phospholipid, egg yolk-derived hydrogenated phospholipid, and the like. These phospholipids can be used singly or in combination of two or more as required. Specific products include NIKKOL Resinol S-10E provided by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., Basis LS-60HR provided by Nisshin Oilio Group Co., Ltd., and egg yolk lecithin PL-100P provided by Kewpie Corporation. It is done.

  The content of the component (a) of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 5% by mass (hereinafter abbreviated as “%” in units), and more preferably 0.05 to 3%. Within this range, it is possible to obtain an emulsified cosmetic that is not sticky and has excellent storage stability.

  The lysophospholipid of component (b) of the present invention is one of enzyme-modified phospholipids, in which the second ester bond is hydrolyzed by phospholipase A2. Unlike phospholipids having a double-chain fatty acid, lysophospholipids have a single-chain fatty acid and thus have a high HLB, and the stability of the emulsion under acidic conditions and at high temperatures is good. The lysophospholipid of component (b) of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics. For example, soybean-derived lysophospholipid, soybean-derived hydrogenated lysophospholipid, egg yolk-derived lysophospholipid, egg yolk Derived hydrogenated lysophospholipids can be used, and one or more of these can be appropriately selected and used. Specific products include NIKKOL Resinol LL-20 provided by Nikko Chemicals Corporation, LP70H provided by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd., egg yolk lysolecithin LPC-1 provided by Kewpie Corporation, and the like.

  Although content of the component (b) of this invention is not specifically limited, 0.01 to 5% is preferable and 0.05 to 3% is more preferable. Within this range, it is possible to obtain an emulsified cosmetic that is not sticky and has excellent storage stability.

  In the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, when the mass ratio (a) / (b) of the component (a) and the component (b) is in the range of 0.2 to 20, the storage stability becomes better. It becomes still more preferable in it being 0.5-5. With this content mass ratio, it is excellent in storage stability even in the case of a low-viscosity liquid emulsified cosmetic such as lotion or an emulsified cosmetic containing an electrolyte such as a vitamin C derivative. Since it can be used, it is preferable.

  Vitamin E and / or a derivative thereof of component (c) of the present invention are those used in ordinary cosmetics, and examples include vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol oleate, and tocopherol linoleate. One or two or more can be used as necessary. Among these, vitamin E is preferable in order to obtain an excellent skin elasticity improvement effect. Vitamin E of component (c) of the present invention is a kind of fat-soluble vitamin, and depending on the position of the methyl group, DL-α-tocopherol, DL-β-tocopherol, DL-γ-tocopherol, DL-δ-tocopherol, There are eight types of D-α-tocopherol, D-β-tocopherol, D-γ-tocopherol and D-δ-tocopherol. Usually, vitamin E used in cosmetics is a mixture of these.

  Although content of the component (c) of this invention is not specifically limited, 0.01 to 3% is preferable and 0.1 to 2% is more preferable. Within this range, it is possible to obtain an emulsified cosmetic that has a good permeation to the skin and an excellent effect of improving the firmness.

  The oleic acid derivative of the component (d) of the present invention is one used for ordinary cosmetics, for example, ester oils such as methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, sorbitan monooleate, sesquiolein Sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan acid, sorbitan trioleate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan trioleate, glycerin fatty acid esters such as glyceryl monooleate, diglycerin mono Examples include polyglycerin fatty acid esters such as oleate, diglycerin dioleate, decaglycerin pentaoleate, and polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters such as polyethylene glycol monooleate. Can be used as needed, one or two or more kinds. Among these, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, and sorbitan trioleate are preferable for obtaining an excellent skin elasticity improvement effect. Further, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, and sorbitan sesquioleate can be exemplified as particularly preferable ones.

  Although content of the component (d) of this invention is not specifically limited, 0.01 to 3% is preferable and 0.1 to 2% is more preferable. Within this range, it is possible to obtain an emulsified cosmetic that has a good penetration into the skin and an excellent effect of improving the firmness of the skin.

  In the present invention, by using the component (c) and the component (d) in combination, the penetration feeling into the skin is improved, and the effect of improving the firmness of the skin is enhanced. When the content ratio (c) / (d) of the component (c) and the component (d) is in the range of 0.1 to 50, the skin penetration is good and the effect of improving the firmness of the skin is obtained. It will become more favorable and it will become still more preferable in it being the range of 0.5-10.

  Furthermore, in the present invention, by making the sum of the contents of component (a) and component (b) and the sum of the contents of component (c) and component (d) into a specific ratio, the sense of penetration into the skin is further increased. , The effect of improving the firmness of the skin is increased, and the storage stability is further improved. When the content mass ratio [(a) + (b)] / [(c) + (d)] is in the range of 0.1 to 10, the permeation to skin is good and the effect of improving the firmness is obtained. In addition, the storage stability becomes better, and more preferably in the range of 2 to 5.

  The water of component (e) of the present invention is used as a dispersion medium for components (a) to (d), and is not particularly limited as long as it is used in cosmetics. For example, purified water, hot spring water, Examples include deep water or steam distilled water such as plants. Purified water such as ion-exchanged water or distilled water is particularly preferable because there are few impurities such as metal ions.

  Although content of the component (e) of this invention is suitably determined by content of component (a)-(d), it is 50 to 99% in general.

  As a method for producing the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, various methods can be used. For example, component (a), component (b), component (c), component (d) previously dissolved at 80 ° C. in component (e) heated to 80 ° C. while stirring with a disperser mixer Is gradually emulsified and gradually cooled to room temperature to obtain an emulsified cosmetic.

  Moreover, as a manufacturing method of the emulsified cosmetics of this invention, it is also possible to carry out a high pressure process, for example with a microfluidizer. By carrying out the high-pressure treatment, it is possible to obtain a low-viscosity emulsified cosmetic, and it is also possible to obtain a fresh feeling of use. In addition, although the low viscosity here refers to the viscosity in 25 degreeC 10-1000 mPa * s, in this invention, it is not limited to this viscosity range in particular. For the measurement of the viscosity value, a Brookfield viscometer can be used. As an example, a “single cylindrical rotational viscometer—Bismetron” (manufactured by Shibaura System Co., Ltd.) can be used.

  In the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, an optional component blended in a normal skin external preparation within the range of not impeding the effects of the present invention, that is, oils other than the component (c) and component (d) of the present invention, alcohols , Powder, water-soluble polymer, film-forming agent, surfactant, oil-soluble gelling agent, organically modified clay mineral, resin, UV absorber, preservative, antibacterial agent, perfume, antioxidant, pH adjuster, A chelating agent or the like can be blended.

  The use of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be exemplified by skin care cosmetics such as lotion, milky lotion, cream, eye cream, beauty essence, massage fee, pack fee, hand cream, body cream and the like. Moreover, the usage method includes a method of using by hand and fingers, a method of using it by impregnating a nonwoven fabric and the like.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Invention products 1 to 17 and comparative products 1 to 7: Cosmetic liquids Cosmetic liquids were prepared by the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 and the following production method. For evaluation of the feeling of use of the essence, sensory evaluations were conducted on (1) skin permeation, (2) no stickiness, and (3) skin firmness using a specialized panel. As the storage stability of the cosmetic liquid, it was left in a thermostatic bath at 50 ° C. for one month, and changes in appearance (separation, creaming) were visually evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 1 and Table 2.

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (3) and (10) are heated to 80 ° C.
B: Components (4) to (9) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
C: Components (11) and (12) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
D: Add B to A and mix and stir with a disper mixer.
E: C is added to D and mixed and stirred with a disper mixer.
F: After cooling E to room temperature, component (13) was added to obtain a cosmetic solution.

(Evaluation method: feeling of use)
Twenty women in their 20s and 40s use each skin external preparation of the product of the present invention, (1) permeation to skin, (2) no stickiness, (3) skin firmness, The sensory evaluation was performed according to the following (b) 5-step evaluation criteria, and the average value of the scores of all the panels was further determined using (c) 4-step determination criteria.

(B) Five-level evaluation criteria (Evaluation): (Grade)
I feel very much: 5 points I feel a little: 4 points Normal: 3 points I don't feel so much: 2 points I don't feel: 1 point (C) 4-step criteria (average of all panel scores): (Judgment)
Average score of 4.5 or more: ◎
Average score of 3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
Average score of 2.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Average score of less than 2.5: ×

(Evaluation method: Storage stability)
Each sample was allowed to stand for 1 month in a thermostatic bath at 50 ° C., and changes in appearance (separation, creaming) were visually observed, and judged according to the following (c) 4-step absolute criteria.
(C) 4-step absolute criteria (degree of change): (judgement)
No change: ◎
Slightly changed: ○
Somewhat changed: △
There is a big change: ×

  As is clear from the results of Tables 1 and 2, the cosmetic liquids of the products 1 to 17 of the present invention have a good penetration feeling into the skin, a little sticky feeling, a high effect of improving the firmness of the skin, and preservation. It was excellent in stability. On the other hand, Comparative Product 1 containing propylene glycol stearate instead of component (a) and component (b) had poor storage stability, poor penetration into the skin, and a sticky feel. In the comparative product 2 not containing the component (b) and the comparative product 3 not containing the component (a), the stickiness, the firmness of the skin, and the storage stability were not sufficient. In the comparative product 4 which does not contain the component (d), the penetration feeling into the skin, the lack of stickiness, and the firmness of the skin were not sufficient. In the comparative product 5 containing no component (c), the sense of penetration into the skin was poor, there was no stickiness, and the skin was not sufficiently firm. In comparative product 6 containing squalane instead of vitamin E as component (c), the penetration into the skin was poor, the stickiness was not sufficient, and there was no effect of improving the firmness of the skin. . Comparative product 7 containing beeswax instead of component (c) Vitamin E had poor penetration into the skin, lack of stickiness, firmness of the skin, and storage stability.

Lotion (Ingredient) (%)
1. Hydrogenated egg yolk phospholipids 1.0
2. Hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid 0.2
3. Vitamin E 0.3
4). Ethyl oleate 0.1
5. Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 0.3
6). Perfume 0.02
7). Dipropylene glycol 10.0
8). Glycerin 5.0
9. Preservative appropriate amount10. Purified water remaining amount 11. Ethanol 5.0

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (8) are dissolved and mixed at 80 ° C.
B: Components (9) and (10) are heated to 80 ° C., added to A and emulsified.
C: Component (11) is added to B and mixed.
D: C was subjected to high-pressure emulsification treatment to obtain a lotion.

  The lotion of Example 2 had good penetration into the skin, less stickiness, a high effect of improving the firmness of the skin, and excellent storage stability without separation or creaming.

Emulsion (oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 2.0
2. Soy lysophospholipid 0.4
3. Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate 2.0
4). Tocopherol linoleate 1.0
5. Liquid paraffin 3.0
6). Macadamia nut oil 2.0
7.1,3-Butylene glycol 7.0
8.1,2-Pentanediol 1.0
9. Glycerin 5.0
10. Acrylic acid-alkyl methacrylate copolymer (Note 1) 0.2
11. Preservative appropriate amount 12. Triethanolamine 0.2
13. Edetate disodium 0.02
14 Purified water remaining amount 15. Perfume appropriate amount (Note 1) Pemulen TR-2 (manufactured by NOVEON)

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (6) are dissolved by heating at 70 ° C.
B: Components (7) to (14) are heated at 70 ° C., then added to A and emulsified.
C: B is cooled to room temperature.
D: Component (15) was added to C to obtain an emulsion (oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic).

  The emulsion of Example 3 (oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic) has good penetration into the skin, less stickiness, high skin elasticity, and excellent storage stability without separation or creaming. It was.

Eye cream (ingredient) (%)
1. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 4.0
2. Hydrogenated egg yolk lysophospholipid 0.5
3. Tocopherol acetate 2.0
4). Ethyl oleate 2.0
5. Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 10.0
6). Cholesterol hydroxystearate 1.5
7). Dimethylpolysiloxane 0.5
8). Cetanol 5.0
9. Propylene glycol 10.0
10. Glycerin 15.0
11. Sodium hyaluronate 0.1
12 Preservative appropriate amount13. N-stearoyl-sodium L-glutamate 0.5
14 Purified water remaining amount 15. Fragrance 0.1

(Production method)
A: Components (1), (2), (9) and (10) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
B: Components (3) to (7) are heated to 80 ° C., added to A and emulsified.
C: Components (11) to (14) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
D: B is added to A, and C is further added to emulsify.
E: D was cooled and component (15) was added to obtain an eye cream.

  The eye cream of Example 4 had good penetration into the skin, less stickiness, high effect of improving skin firmness, and excellent storage stability without separation or creaming.

Sheet mask (component) (%)
1. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 1.0
2. Hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid 1.5
3. Cholesterol 0.5
4). Isostearic acid 0.2
5. Vitamin E 1.0
6). Sorbitan sesquioleate 2.0
7). α-olefin oligomer 2.0
8). Fragrance 0.05
9. Diglycerin 5.0
10. Dipropylene glycol 10.0
11. Purified water remaining amount 12. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
13. Ethanol 5.0
14 Ascorbic acid glucoside 3.0
15. Sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate 2.0
16. Sodium hyaluronate 0.2
17. Sodium hydroxide 0.13

(Manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (10) are dissolved by heating at 80 ° C.
B: Component (11) is heated to 80 ° C., A is added and emulsified.
C: After cooling B, components (12) to (17) are added, and this is impregnated into the nonwoven fabric.
D: C was sealed and filled in an aluminum laminate bag-like container to obtain a sheet-like cosmetic.

The sheet-like cosmetic of Example 5 had good penetration into the skin, less stickiness, high effect of improving skin firmness, and excellent storage stability without separation or creaming. .

Claims (4)

The following components (a) to (e);
(A) Phospholipid (b) Lysophospholipid (c) Vitamin E and / or vitamin E derivative selected from the group consisting of tocopherol acetate, tocopherol oleate and tocopherol linoleate (d) sorbitan monooleate and sesquioleate An oleic acid derivative selected from the group consisting of sorbitan (e) An emulsified cosmetic comprising water.   The emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio (a) / (b) of the component (a) and the component (b) is 0.5 to 5.   The emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mass ratio (c) / (d) of the component (c) and the component (d) is 0.1-50.   The mass ratio [(a) + (b)] / [(c) + (d)] of the component (a) + (b) and the component (c) + (d) is 0.1-10. The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein