JP5371923B2 - Sailor suit - Google Patents
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- JP5371923B2 JP5371923B2 JP2010223483A JP2010223483A JP5371923B2 JP 5371923 B2 JP5371923 B2 JP 5371923B2 JP 2010223483 A JP2010223483 A JP 2010223483A JP 2010223483 A JP2010223483 A JP 2010223483A JP 5371923 B2 JP5371923 B2 JP 5371923B2
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Abstract
Description
本願発明は、セーラー服に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a sailor suit.
女子生徒の制服の一種であるセーラー服は、セーラーカラーと呼ばれる独特な形状を有する衿が特徴である。前がＶ字型形状で後ろが四角形状をなすこの衿は、前身頃の胸部から肩を経て後身頃の背中上部にまで至るものであり、他の衣服と比較して衣服全体に対する衿の割合が高い。 Sailor clothing, a type of school uniform for girls, is characterized by a unique shape called a sailor collar. This heel with a V-shape in front and a square shape in the back extends from the chest of the front body through the shoulder to the upper back of the back body. Is expensive.
このため、衿の自重による衿ぐりのたるみや衿の型崩れ等を生じ、衿が肩先や背中上部に与える負担による着用感の低下や着用時のシルエットの低下等を引き起こしていた。 For this reason, the looseness of the neckline due to the weight of the heel, the deformation of the heel, etc. were caused, causing a decrease in wearing feeling due to the burden of the heel on the shoulder tip and upper back, and a decrease in silhouette during wearing.
また、従来のセーラー服の衿は、その衿を構成する表衿と裏衿のうち、表衿の内面にのみ全体に芯地を取り付け裏衿には芯地を取り付けていないために衿の張りやコシが弱く、上記の衿ぐりのたるみや衿の型崩れ等が着用初期から生じる恐れがあった。さらに、度重なる洗濯やハンガーによる懸架保管等によって、衿ぐりのたるみや衿の型崩れ等が着用期間を通して進行していく恐れがあった。 In addition, the heels of the conventional sailor suits have a lining that is attached to the entire inner surface only of the front lining and the inner lining of the lining. The stiffness is weak, and the above-described sagging sagging and heel-shaped deformation may occur from the beginning of wearing. Furthermore, due to repeated washing and suspended storage with hangers, there is a risk that loosening of the neckline, losing shape of the bag, etc. may progress throughout the wearing period.
上記問題を解決するために、特許文献１においては、上述のように、従来のセーラー服の衿では表衿の内面にのみ取り付けられていた芯地を、表衿と裏衿の何れか一方の内面には全体に渡って芯地を取り付けると共に、他方の内面には肩から首筋に当たる部分の領域のみに芯地を取り付けることによって、衿の型崩れ、特に肩の落ち込みによる型崩れを抑える提案がなされている。 In order to solve the above-described problem, in Patent Document 1, as described above, in the conventional sailor suit, the interlining attached only to the inner surface of the outer cover is used as the inner surface of either the outer cover or the reverse cover. In addition to attaching the interlining to the whole, and attaching the interlining only to the area of the other part that hits the neck from the shoulder, there is a proposal to suppress the shape loss of the heel, especially the deformation due to the fall of the shoulder ing.
本願発明はこのことに鑑み、衿ぐりのたるみや衿の型崩れ防止を含め衿全体の保型性を長期間維持することによって、心地よい着用感と着用時に美しいシルエットを実現することができるセーラー服を提供することを課題とする。特に、肩から背中上部に垂下された衿垂れ部の保型性を長期間維持することによって、心地よい着用感と着用時に美しいシルエットを実現することができるセーラー服の提供を図らんとするものである。 In view of this, the present invention provides a sailor suit that can realize a comfortable wearing feeling and a beautiful silhouette at the time of wearing by maintaining the shape retaining property of the entire heel for a long period of time including prevention of sagging sagging and deformation of the heel. The task is to do. In particular, it is intended to provide a sailor suit that can realize a comfortable wearing feeling and a beautiful silhouette when worn by maintaining the shape retention of the drooping part hanging from the shoulder to the upper back for a long period of time. .
上記課題を解決するために、本願の発明は、前身頃と、後身頃と、上記前身頃と上記後身頃との間の首挿入穴の周囲に沿わされて取り付けられた衿とを備え、上記衿は、上記前身頃と上記後身頃とに渡って衿ぐりを含む位置に配設される肩部と、上記肩部から上記前身頃の左右前面に配設される衿先部と、上記肩部から上記後身頃に垂下される衿垂れ部とを備えたセーラー服において、上記衿は、表衿布と裏衿布とがその周囲において縫着されたものであり、上記表衿布は、その内面に表芯地を備え、上記裏衿布は、その内面に裏芯地を備え、上記表芯地と裏芯地とのいずれか一方は、上記衿の実質的に全体に渡って配設された全面芯地であり、上記表芯地と裏芯地とのいずれか他方は、上記衿の肩部と上記衿垂れ部の双方に渡って配設されると共に上記衿先部には配設されない部分芯地であるものである。 In order to solve the above problems, the invention of the present application comprises a front body, a back body, and a heel attached along the periphery of a neck insertion hole between the front body and the back body, A heel includes a shoulder portion disposed at a position including a neckline across the front body and the back body, a heel portion disposed on the left and right front surfaces of the front body from the shoulder portion, and the shoulder In a sailor garment provided with a drooping portion that hangs down from the back to the back body, the heel is formed by sewing a front lining cloth and a back lining cloth on its periphery, An inner surface is provided with a front interlining, and the back lining is provided with a inner lining on the inner surface, and either the front lining or the back lining is disposed substantially over the entire surface. And the other of the front and back interlinings is disposed over both the shoulder portion of the heel and the drooping portion. With those in the collar tip portion is a portion interlining not disposed.
そして、上記衿垂れ部は下端の左右両側が直線同士の角になった角隅であり、上記部分芯地は左右の上記両角隅の部分には配設されていないことを特徴とするセーラー服を提供する。 Then, the collar sagging portion is a corner angle left and right sides of the lower end becomes the corners of straight lines, the partial interlining to the feature that it is not disposed at the left and right of the both corner corner portions ruse To provide collar clothes.
本願の発明では、前身頃と後身頃との間の首挿入穴の周囲に沿わされて取り付けられる、肩部と、衿先部と衿垂れ部とからなる衿を備えたセーラー服において、表衿布と裏衿布とがその周囲において縫着されたこの衿を構成する表衿布と裏衿布との何れか一方の内面には、衿全体に芯地を配設する全面芯地を用い、表衿布と裏衿布との何れか他方の衿の内面には、肩部と衿垂れ部の双方に渡って芯地を配設するとともに衿先部に芯地を配設しない部分芯地を用いることによって、衿全体の保型性を長期間維持し、衿ぐりのたるみや衿の型崩れを防止するとともに心地よい着用感を与え、かつ、着用時に全体にバランスの整った美しいシルエットを実現することができるセーラー服を提供することができたものである。
そして、上記の発明の効果に加え、衿垂れ部下端の左右両側に位置し、衿垂れ部下端とその左右両側とによって直線同士の角をなす角隅部分に、全面芯地を配設するが部分芯地を配設しないことにより、全面芯地と部分芯地とを共に配設することで生じると考えうる上記角隅部分の外方向への反り返りを防止することができる。よって、衿垂れ部の角隅部分の保型性を確保し、着用時に美しいシルエットを実現することができるセーラー服を提供することができたものである。
In the invention of the present application, in a sailor suit comprising a shoulder portion, a heel portion and a drooping portion attached along the circumference of the neck insertion hole between the front body and the back body, On the inner surface of either the front cover cloth or the back cover cloth that constitutes this heel, which is sewn on the periphery of the lining cloth, a full-line interlining is used in which an interlining is disposed on the entire heel. On the inner surface of the other side of either the front or back side cloth, an interlining is provided over both the shoulder portion and the drooping portion, and no interlining is provided on the tip portion. By using, the overall shape retention of the heel is maintained for a long period of time, preventing loosening of the neckline and out of shape of the heel, giving a comfortable wearing feeling, and realizing a beautiful and well-balanced silhouette when worn A sailor outfit that can be provided.
And, in addition to the effects of the above invention, the entire interlining is disposed at the corners that are located on the left and right sides of the lower end of the drooping portion and form the corners of the straight lines by the lower end of the drooping portion and the left and right sides thereof. By not providing the partial interlining, it is possible to prevent the corner portion from warping outward, which can be considered to be caused by arranging the entire interlining and the partial interlining. Therefore, it has been possible to provide a sailor suit that can secure the shape retention of the corners of the drooping portion and can realize a beautiful silhouette when worn.
以下、図面に基づき本願発明の実施の形態の一例を取りあげてを説明する。 Hereinafter, an example of an embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
セーラー服１０は、図１に示すように、前身頃１１と、後身頃１２と、前身頃１１と後身頃１２との間の首挿入穴１３の周囲に沿うようにして取り付けられた衿２０と、前身頃１１と後身頃１２との間の袖ぐり１４に取り付けられた袖４０と、衿２０にくぐらせて前で結ぶスカーフ４１とから構成されている。衿２０は、前身頃１１と後身頃１２とに渡って衿ぐり２２を含む位置に配設される肩部２１と、肩部２１から前身頃１１の左右前面に配設される衿先部２４と、肩部２１から後身頃１２に垂下される衿垂れ部２６とから構成され、従来のセーラー服の衿と同様、前がＶ字型形状を、後ろが四角形状をなしている。 As shown in FIG. 1, the sailor suit 10 includes a front body 11, a back body 12, and a heel 20 attached along the circumference of the neck insertion hole 13 between the front body 11 and the back body 12, It comprises a sleeve 40 attached to the armhole 14 between the front body 11 and the back body 12, and a scarf 41 that passes through the heel 20 and ties in front. The heel 20 includes a shoulder portion 21 disposed at a position including the neckline 22 across the front body 11 and the back body 12, and a heel portion 24 disposed on the left and right front surfaces of the front body 11 from the shoulder portion 21. And a drooping portion 26 that hangs down from the shoulder portion 21 to the back body 12, and like the conventional sailor suit, the front is V-shaped and the back is square.
衿２０は、表衿布３０と、裏衿布３１とがその周囲において縫着されて形成されており、表衿布３０の裏面には表芯地３２が、裏衿布３１の裏面には裏芯地３３がそれぞれ配設されている。図２（Ａ）及び図２（Ｂ）に示すように、表衿布３０の裏面には、表芯地３２として衿２０の実質的に全体に渡って配設される全面芯地３４が、裏衿布３１の裏面には、裏芯地３３として衿先部２４以外の肩部２１と衿垂れ部２６の双方に渡って部分的に配設される部分芯地３５がそれぞれ接着して取り付けられている。衿２０の構成と取り付けられた芯地３２，３３との関係をわかりやすくするために、図２（Ａ）は表芯地３２が取り付けられた表衿布３０を表面側からみた説明図を示し、図２（Ｂ）は裏芯地３３が取り付けられた裏衿布３１を裏面側からみた説明図を示す。本実施形態においては、表衿布３０の裏面に表芯地３２として全面芯地３４を、裏衿布３１の裏面に裏芯地３３として部分芯地３５をそれぞれ接着して取り付けているが、表衿布３０の裏面に表芯地３２として部分芯地３５を、裏衿布３１の裏面に裏芯地３３として全面芯地３４をそれぞれ接着して取り付けてもよい。また、本実施形態においては、図２（Ｂ）に示すように、裏衿布３１の裏面に接着して取り付けた部分芯地３５のうち、衿垂れ部２６下端である衿垂れ部２６の底部２８の左右両側に位置し、その左右両側にある衿垂れ部２６の側部２７と底部２８とによって直線同士の角をなす角隅部２９には芯地が取り付けられていない。部分芯地３５が取り付けられていない衿垂れ部２６の角隅部２９の大きさや形状には特に制限はないが、一辺が４ｃｍ〜１５ｃｍの範囲の四角形や二等辺三角形等とすることが好ましく、二等辺三角形の斜辺を曲線とした形状としてもよい。
なお、図３に示すように、衿２０における衿先部２４の範囲としては、前身頃１１と後身頃１２との境界に取り付けられる衿ぐり２２の位置を衿みつ２２ｂとし、衿みつ２２ｂから前身頃側（図３においては上側）の衿ぐり２２までの距離Ｃを２０ｃｍ未満、好ましくは１０ｃｍ未満、より好ましくは３ｃｍ以上７ｃｍ未満となる左右の点を衿先点２４ａとし、次に、衿先点２４ａを通る水平な仮想線を引き、その水平な仮想線よりも前身頃側を少なくとも衿先部２４とする。また、衿みつ２２ｂを通る水平な仮想線を引き、その水平な仮想線から後身頃側（図３においては下側）に従来のセーラー服と同様の数ｃｍの距離Ｓをおいた位置に衿ぐり中心２２ａを設ける。図３において、点線は衿の出来上がり線を、二点鎖線は仮想線をそれぞれ示し、出来上がり線における衿ぐり中心２２ａ、衿みつ２２ｂ、衿先点２４ａを用いて、衿先部２４の範囲を特定した。また、図３において、わかりやすくするために衿先部２４を斜線で示した。
The heel 20 is formed by sewing a front lining cloth 30 and a back lining cloth 31 on the periphery thereof. A lining material 33 is provided. As shown in FIG. 2 (A) and FIG. 2 (B), on the back surface of the front cover cloth 30, there is a full face interlining 34 disposed as a front interlining area 32 over substantially the entire surface. A partial interlining 35, which is partially disposed over both the shoulder portion 21 and the drooping portion 26 other than the heel portion 24, is attached and attached to the back surface of the lining cloth 31. It has been. In order to make it easy to understand the relationship between the configuration of the ridge 20 and the attached interlinings 32 and 33, FIG. 2A shows an explanatory view of the front lining cloth 30 to which the front interlining 32 is attached as viewed from the front side. FIG. 2 (B) is an explanatory view of the back cover 31 to which the backing interlining 33 is attached as viewed from the back side. In the present embodiment, the entire interlining 34 is attached to the back surface of the front cloth 30 as the front interlining 32 and the partial interlining 35 is attached to the back surface of the back cloth 31 as the back interlining 33. You may attach the partial interlining 35 as the surface interlining 32 to the back surface of the front covering cloth 30, and adhere the entire interlining 34 as the back interlining 33 to the back surface of the back covering cloth 31, respectively. Moreover, in this embodiment, as shown in FIG. 2 (B), the bottom part of the drooping part 26 which is a lower end of the drooping part 26 among the partial interlining 35 attached to the back surface of the back cloth cloth 31. No interlining is attached to the corners 29 that are located on both the left and right sides of the hanger 28 and that form the corners of the straight lines by the side portions 27 and the bottom portions 28 of the drooping portions 26 on the left and right sides. There is no particular limitation on the size and shape of the corner portion 29 of the drooping portion 26 to which the partial interlining 35 is not attached, but it is preferable to use a quadrangular or isosceles triangle with a side of 4 cm to 15 cm, It is good also as a shape which made the hypotenuse of the isosceles triangle a curve.
As shown in FIG. 3, the range of the heel portion 24 of the heel 20 is that the position of the neckline 22 attached to the boundary between the front body 11 and the back body 12 is the heel 22b, and from the heel 22b to the front The left and right points at which the distance C to the peripheral side 22 (upper side in FIG. 3) is less than 20 cm, preferably less than 10 cm, more preferably 3 cm or more and less than 7 cm are set as the tip points 24a. A horizontal imaginary line passing through the point 24a is drawn, and the front body side of the horizontal imaginary line is at least the tip portion 24. Further, a horizontal imaginary line passing through the cocoon honey 22b is drawn, and the distance from the horizontal imaginary line to the back body side (the lower side in FIG. 3) is a distance S of several centimeters as in the conventional sailor suit. A center 22a is provided. In FIG. 3, the dotted line indicates the finished line of the heel and the two-dot chain line indicates the virtual line, and the range of the heel part 24 is specified using the center 22a, the heel 22b, and the heel point 24a on the finished line. did. Further, in FIG. 3, the heel portion 24 is indicated by hatching for easy understanding.
表衿布３０と裏衿布３１の素材には特に制限はなく、制服として在学中着用するための一定強度や耐久性、対候性、通気性、撥水性、耐洗濯性等に優れた素材であれば、ポリアミド系、ポリエステル系、ポリオレフィン系、ポリ塩化ビニル系等の各種合成繊維や、綿、毛、ヤシ繊維、ジュート等の天然繊維からなる織編布、不織布等の種々の素材の布を使用することができる。また、表衿布３０と裏衿布３１とは、同素材の布を用いることが好ましい。芯地としては、しなやかで、かつ適度な張りとコシを有し、布と接着可能な芯地であれば特に制限はなく、基布としては、加工糸織物や複合糸織物などの織物や、編物、不織布等を使用することができる。また、芯地の接着剤の素材にも制限はなく、ポリアミドやポリエステル、ポリエチレン等の種々の素材の接着剤を使用することができる。 There are no particular restrictions on the material of the front cloth 30 and the back cloth 31, and the material is excellent in certain strength, durability, weather resistance, breathability, water repellency, washing resistance, etc. If so, fabrics made of various materials such as various synthetic fibers such as polyamide, polyester, polyolefin and polyvinyl chloride, and woven and knitted fabrics and nonwoven fabrics made of natural fibers such as cotton, wool, palm fiber and jute Can be used. Moreover, it is preferable to use the cloth of the same material for the front cover cloth 30 and the back cover cloth 31. As the interlining, there is no particular limitation as long as the interlining is pliable and has an appropriate tension and stiffness, and can be bonded to the cloth, and as the base cloth, a woven fabric such as a processed yarn fabric or a composite yarn fabric, Knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics and the like can be used. Moreover, there is no restriction | limiting also in the raw material of the adhesive agent of an interlining, The adhesive agent of various raw materials, such as polyamide, polyester, polyethylene, can be used.
また、衿２０の形状、つまり、衿２０をなす表衿布３０及び裏衿布３１の形状については特に制限はなく、本実施形態のように衿垂れ部２６の下端である底部２８の左右両側に角隅部２９を備えた形状にするほか、角隅部２９に丸みをもたせた曲線形状としてもよい。また、衿先部２４の長さや形状、肩部２１の肩幅の長さや形状等についても、本願発明の目的を逸脱しない範囲において適宜調整すればよい。図４に、衿２０の形状の一例として、裏芯地３３として部分芯地３５を取り付けた裏衿布３１を裏面側からみた説明図を示す。 Moreover, there is no restriction | limiting in particular about the shape of the collar 20, ie, the shape of the front cover cloth 30 and the back cover cloth 31 which comprise the collar 20, Both right and left sides of the bottom part 28 which is the lower end of the drooping part 26 like this embodiment. In addition to the shape provided with the corner portion 29, the corner portion 29 may have a curved shape. Further, the length and shape of the heel portion 24 and the length and shape of the shoulder width of the shoulder portion 21 may be appropriately adjusted without departing from the object of the present invention. As an example of the shape of the ridge 20, FIG. 4 shows an explanatory view of the back lining cloth 31 with the partial interlining 35 attached as the lining interlining 33 as seen from the back side.
表芯地３２又は裏芯地３３を接着して取り付けられた表衿布３０と裏衿布３１は、それぞれ接着して取り付けられた表芯地３２と裏芯地３３とが内側になるよう重ね合わせて、その周囲を縫着することによって衿２０を形成し、この衿２０を前身頃１１と後身頃１２との間の首挿入穴１３の周囲に沿うようにして取り付ける。より詳しくは、衿先部２４の内側の側部２５と肩部２１の衿ぐり２２を、前身頃１１と後身頃１２との間の首挿入穴１３の周囲に沿うようにして取り付ける。衿２０の両身頃１１，１２への取り付け方法には特に制限はなく、縫製によって取り付けてもよいし、衿２０または首挿入穴１３の周囲の何れか一方にボタンを備え、衿２０または首挿入穴１３の周囲の何れか他方にボタンホールを備えて、ボタンをボタンホールに係合することによって取り付けてもよい。 The front cover cloth 30 and the back cover cloth 31 that are attached by bonding the front cover cloth 32 or the back cover cloth 33 are overlapped so that the front cover cloth 32 and the back cover cloth 33 that are attached by bonding are inside. At the same time, a heel 20 is formed by sewing around the periphery, and the heel 20 is attached along the periphery of the neck insertion hole 13 between the front body 11 and the back body 12. More specifically, the side portion 25 on the inner side of the heel portion 24 and the neckline 22 of the shoulder portion 21 are attached along the circumference of the neck insertion hole 13 between the front body 11 and the back body 12. There are no particular restrictions on the method of attaching the heel 20 to both body parts 11 and 12, and it may be attached by sewing, or a button is provided around either the heel 20 or the neck insertion hole 13 to insert the heel 20 or the neck. A button hole may be provided on the other side of the hole 13 and the button may be attached by engaging the button hole.
上述のように、表衿布３０の内面に表芯地３２として衿２０の実質的に全体に渡って全面芯地３４が接着して取り付けられ、かつ裏衿布３１の内面に裏芯地３３として衿先部２４以外の肩部２１と衿垂れ部２６の双方に渡って部分芯地３５が接着して取り付けられたことにより、衿２０の肩部２１及び衿垂れ部２６は表芯地３２と裏芯地３３とが二重に取り付けられ、衿２０に適度な張りとコシを与える。肩部２１については、衿ぐり２２の自重によるたるみを防止し、衿２０を後身頃１２に向かって折り返す際の衿折れ線２３を設計上の衿折れ線と同位置に保持することができる。また、衿ぐり２２周囲のしわを防止することができる。よって、衿折れ線２３が安定するとともに、衿２０の自重による肩先１５や背中上部への負担が軽減されることにより、肩部２１の保型性を維持し、より軽い着用感を与えるとともに着用時に美しいシルエットを実現することができる。 As described above, the entire interlining 34 is attached and attached to the inner surface of the outer covering cloth 30 as the outer interlining cloth 32 over substantially the entire surface of the outer covering 20. As the partial interlining 35 is bonded and attached to both the shoulder portion 21 and the drooping portion 26 other than the toe portion 24, the shoulder portion 21 and the drooping portion 26 of the reed 20 have the front interlining 32. And the backing interlining 33 are attached in a double manner to give the brim 20 moderate tension and stiffness. As for the shoulder portion 21, it is possible to prevent sagging due to the weight of the neckline 22, and it is possible to hold the fold line 23 when the heel 20 is folded back toward the back body 12 at the same position as the designed fold line. Further, wrinkles around the neckline 22 can be prevented. Therefore, the fold line 23 is stabilized, and the burden on the shoulder tip 15 and the upper back due to the weight of the heel 20 is reduced, so that the shape retaining property of the shoulder portion 21 is maintained, and a lighter wearing feeling is given while wearing. A beautiful silhouette can be realized.
また、衿垂れ部２６については、上述した肩部２１の保型性の効果に加え、衿垂れ部２６の側部２７や底部２８の波打ちとしてみられるしわやたるみの発生を抑制することができる。さらに、裏芯地３３として裏衿布３１の内面に取り付けた部分芯地３５のうち、衿垂れ部２６下端である底部２８の左右両側に位置する角隅部２９には、部分芯地３５を取り付けず表芯地３２として表衿布３０に全面芯地３４のみを取り付けることによって、全面芯地３４と部分芯地３５とを共に取り付けることで生じると考えうる衿垂れ部２６の角隅部２９の外方向への反り返りを防止することができる。よって、衿垂れ部２６の保型性を維持し、着用時に美しいシルエットを実現することができる。 Moreover, about the drooping part 26, in addition to the effect of the shape retention property of the shoulder part 21 mentioned above, generation | occurrence | production of the wrinkle and sagging seen as the wavy of the side part 27 of the drooping part 26 and the bottom part 28 can be suppressed. . Further, among the partial interlining 35 attached to the inner surface of the back cover cloth 31 as the back interlining 33, the partial interlining 35 is provided at the corners 29 located on both the left and right sides of the bottom 28 that is the lower end of the drooping portion 26. By attaching only the entire surface interlining 34 to the surface covering cloth 30 as the surface interlining 32 without attaching, the corner portion 29 of the drooping portion 26 that can be considered to be generated by attaching the entire interlining 34 and the partial interlining 35 together. It is possible to prevent the warping of the outside in the outward direction. Therefore, the shape retaining property of the drooping portion 26 can be maintained, and a beautiful silhouette can be realized when worn.
衿先部２４については、裏芯地３３としての部分芯地３５を配設せず表芯地３２としての全面芯地３４のみを配設することによって、衿先部２４の自然な衿２０の返りを妨げないよう適度なしなやかさを保持している。 With respect to the heel portion 24, only the entire interlining 34 as the front interlining 32 is disposed without disposing the partial interlining 35 as the back interlining 33. It retains a moderate level of flexibility so as not to hinder the return.
さらに衿２０全体としては、衿２０の肩部２１及び衿垂れ部２６に表芯地３２と裏芯地３３とを配設することにより、縫製加工性の安定を図るともに、パッカリング（生地のゆがみ）の発生を抑制することができる。 Furthermore, as a whole of the heel 20, by arranging a front lining 32 and a back lining 33 on the shoulder portion 21 and the drooping portion 26 of the heel 20, the sewing processability is stabilized and puckering (clothing) The occurrence of distortion can be suppressed.
上述の衿２０を備えたセーラー服１０は、長期間の着用やハンガーによる懸架等による保管、繰り返しの洗濯によっても衿ぐり２２のたるみや衿２０の型崩れを防止することができる。よって、長期にわたり衿２０全体の保型性を維持し、心地よい着用感と着用時に美しいシルエットを実現することができるセーラー服１０を提供することができたものである。 The sailor garment 10 provided with the heel 20 described above can prevent sagging of the neckline 22 and deformation of the heel 20 even by long-term wearing, storage by hangers, etc., and repeated washing. Therefore, it has been possible to provide the sailor garment 10 that can maintain the shape retaining property of the entire bag 20 over a long period of time and can realize a comfortable wearing feeling and a beautiful silhouette when worn.
以下、実施例に基づき本願発明を詳細に説明する。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on examples.
（実施例１〜実施例２）
実施例１及び実施例２として、図２（Ａ）及び図２（Ｂ）に示す表衿布３０及び裏衿布３１を用いて形成した衿２０（実施例２）、及びその衿２０を備えたセーラー服１０（実施例１）を作製した。セーラー服１０の素材は、前身頃１１、後身頃１２、衿２０、袖４０ともに、ウール５０％／ポリエステル５０％の混紡糸によるカシミヤ織素材を使用した。衿２０に使用した芯地は、基布がポリエステル１００％で、坪量が５９ｇ／ｍ2の加工糸織物芯地を使用した。前身頃１１、後身頃１２、袖４０については、通常の縫製を施した。衿２０は、表芯地３２として全面芯地３４を接着して取り付けた表衿布３０と、裏芯地３３として肩部２１と衿垂れ部２６の双方に渡る部分芯地３５を接着して取り付けた裏衿布３１とを、それぞれ取り付けられた表芯地３２と裏芯地３３とが内側になるよう重ね合わせて、首挿入穴１３の周囲に取り付けられる衿先部２４の内側の側部２５と肩部２１の衿ぐり２２を除いた表衿布３０と裏衿布３１との周囲を縫着することによって形成し、本願発明に係るセーラー服１０の衿２０を得た。さらに、この衿２０を前身頃１１と後身頃１２との間の首挿入穴１３の周囲に沿うようにして取り付け、本願発明に係るセーラー服１０を得た。なお、裏衿布３１に接着して取り付けた部分芯地３５のうち、衿垂れ部２６下端である底部２８の左右両側に位置し、その左右両側にある衿垂れ部２６の側部２７と底部２８とによって直線同士の角をなす角隅部２９には部分芯地３５を取り付けなかった。部分芯地３５が取り付けられなかった衿垂れ部２６の角隅部２９の大きさは、一辺が１０ｃｍの二等辺三角形の大きさとなるようにした。また、衿２０における衿先部２４の範囲としては、衿みつ２２ｂから衿先点２４ａまでの距離Ｃを５ｃｍとし、衿みつ２２ｂから衿ぐり中心２２ａまでの距離Ｓを２ｃｍとした。実施例１及び実施例２のセーラー服１０の衿２０の質量は、７０．４gであった。
(Example 1 to Example 2)
As Example 1 and Example 2, the scissors 20 (Example 2) formed using the front cover cloth 30 and the back cover cloth 31 shown in FIG. 2 (A) and FIG. A sailor garment 10 (Example 1) was prepared. For the material of the sailor suit 10, cashmere woven material made of 50% wool / 50% polyester blended yarn was used for the front body 11, the back body 12, the heel 20, and the sleeve 40. As the interlining used for the heel 20, a processed yarn woven interlining having a base fabric of 100% polyester and a basis weight of 59 g / m 2 was used. The front body 11, the back body 12, and the sleeve 40 were subjected to normal sewing. The heel 20 has a front lining cloth 30 that is attached by attaching a whole face lining 34 as a front lining 32, and a partial lining 35 that covers both the shoulder portion 21 and the drooping portion 26 as a lining 33. The side portions on the inner side of the heel portion 24 that are attached to the periphery of the neck insertion hole 13 by superimposing the attached back lining cloth 31 so that the attached front lining 32 and the lining lining 33 are inside. 25 and the back cover cloth 31 except for the neckline 22 of the shoulder portion 21, and the back cover cloth 31 is formed by sewing around the periphery, thereby obtaining the heel 20 of the sailor garment 10 according to the present invention. Furthermore, this heel 20 was attached along the circumference of the neck insertion hole 13 between the front body 11 and the back body 12 to obtain the sailor suit 10 according to the present invention. Of the partial interlining 35 attached and attached to the backing cloth 31, it is located on the left and right sides of the bottom part 28, which is the lower end of the drooping part 26, and the side part 27 and the bottom part of the drooping part 26 on the left and right sides thereof. The partial interlining 35 is not attached to the corner portion 29 that forms the angle between the straight lines. The size of the corner portion 29 of the drooping portion 26 to which the partial interlining 35 was not attached was set to the size of an isosceles triangle having a side of 10 cm. Further, as the range of the heel part 24 in the heel 20, the distance C from the heel 22b to the heel point 24a was 5 cm, and the distance S from the heel 22b to the center 22a was 2 cm. The mass of the heel 20 of the sailor suit 10 of Example 1 and Example 2 was 70.4 g.
（比較例１〜比較例２）
実施例１及び実施例２の比較のために、図２（Ｂ）に示す裏衿布３１に裏芯地３３として部分芯地３５を取り付けず、図２（Ａ）に示す表衿布３０にのみ表芯地３２として全面芯地３４を接着して取り付けて形成した衿２０（比較例２）、及びその衿２０を備えたセーラー服１０（比較例１）を作製した。セーラー服１０の素材は、ウール５０％／ポリエステル５０％の混紡糸によるカシミヤ織素材を使用し、衿２０に使用した芯地は、基布がポリエステル１００％で、坪量が４７ｇ／ｍ2の加工糸織物芯地を使用した。前身頃１１、後身頃１２、袖４０の縫製や衿２０の縫製、衿２０の取り付けは実施例１と同様の方法によりセーラー服１０の衿２０とセーラー服１０を作製した。得られた実施例１〜実施例２及び比較例１〜比較例２を、下記に示す方法により、保管性及び耐洗濯性について評価した。比較例１及び比較例２のセーラー服１０の衿２０の質量は、６４．９gであった。
(Comparative Examples 1 to 2)
For comparison between Example 1 and Example 2, the partial interlining 35 is not attached as the back interlining 33 to the back side covering 31 shown in FIG. 2 (B), and the front covering cloth 30 shown in FIG. 2 (A) is attached. Only the heel 20 (Comparative Example 2) formed by adhering and attaching the entire surface interlining 34 as the front lining 32, and the sailor suit 10 (Comparative Example 1) provided with the heel 20 were produced. The material of the sailor suit 10 is a cashmere woven material made of 50% wool / 50% polyester blended yarn, and the interlining used for the heel 20 is a 100% polyester base fabric with a basis weight of 47g / m 2 A yarn woven interlining was used. The front body 11, the back body 12, the sewing of the sleeve 40, the sewing of the heel 20, and the attachment of the heel 20 were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to prepare the heel 20 and the sailor garment 10 of the sailor clothes 10. The obtained Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 were evaluated for storage properties and washing resistance by the methods shown below. The mass of the bag 20 of the sailor suit 10 of the comparative example 1 and the comparative example 2 was 64.9g.
（評価方法）
（１）保管性
実施例１、比較例１のセーラー服１０を、それぞれ１０日間ハンガーに懸架する保管テストを行い、セーラー服１０の衿ぐり２２のたるみやしわ、衿垂れ部２６の波打ち、パッカリングの有無、及びそれらの程度について、目視にて評価した。実施例１及び比較例１の保管テスト後の写真又は図を、図５〜図８に示す。
（２）耐洗濯性
ＪＩＳ Ｌ０２１７ １０５法を参考にして、実施例２、比較例２のセーラー服１０の衿２０を、それぞれ家庭用自動洗濯機による水洗い洗濯、吊り干しによる乾燥を連続して１０回行う洗濯テストを行い、衿垂れ部２６の波打ちの程度について、目視にて評価した。実施例２及び比較例２の洗濯テスト後の写真を図９〜図１０に示す。
(Evaluation method)
(1) Storage characteristics Storage tests are carried out by suspending the sailor suit 10 of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 on hangers for 10 days, and the sag and wrinkles of the neckline 22 of the sailor suit 10, the undulation of the drooping portion 26, The presence or absence and their degree were visually evaluated. The photograph or figure after the storage test of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 is shown in FIGS.
(2) Washing resistance Referring to JIS L0217 105 method, the cocoon 20 of the sailor suit 10 of Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 was successively washed 10 times with a home automatic washing machine and 10 times with drying by hanging. The washing test to be performed was performed, and the degree of undulation of the drooping portion 26 was visually evaluated. The photograph after the washing test of Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 is shown in FIGS.
まず、保管テストにおける衿ぐり２２のたるみやしわについて評価した。図５（Ａ）に示すように、実施例１は、テスト終了後であっても衿ぐり２２が自重によって垂れ下がることなく、実施例１の衿折れ線２３は設計上の衿折れ線と同じ位置を保っている。また、衿ぐり２２の収まりが良く、衿ぐり２２周囲にしわの発生が確認できなかった。一方、図５（Ｂ）に示すように、比較例１は、実施例１と比較して、衿２０が軽いにも関わらず衿ぐり２２が自重により垂れ下がり、かつ衿ぐり２２周囲にしわの発生が確認された。よって、実施例１において、衿ぐり２２を含む肩部２１の保型性を確認することができた。さらに、図６（Ａ）及び図６（Ｂ）に、比較例１において作製されたセーラー服１０の自重による衿ぐり５４のたるみを示す説明図を示す。図６（Ａ）及び図６（Ｂ）における二点鎖線は、設計上の衿ぐり５０及び衿折れ線５１の位置を含む設計上の衿の位置を示している。図６（Ａ）に示すように、比較例１においては、衿ぐり５４が自重によって垂れ下がることによって、比較例１の衿折れ線５５も下がり、設計上の衿折れ線５１の位置を保つことができない。また、図６（Ａ）及び図６（Ｂ）に示すように、比較例１の衿の位置（例えば、衿垂れ部２６の側部５６や底部５７）は設計上の衿の位置（同じく衿垂れ部２６の側部５２や底部５３）に収まらず外回りが不足するため、設計上の衿垂れ部２６の側部５２や底部５３と比較して、比較例１の衿垂れ部２６の側部５６や底部５７はより外側に位置している。よって、実施例１と比較して肩先１５から背中上部、特に肩先１５にかかる衿２０の比重が大きく、着用感を低下させることが分かった。 First, sagging and wrinkles of the neckline 22 in the storage test were evaluated. As shown in FIG. 5A, in Example 1, the neckline 22 does not hang down due to its own weight even after the test is completed, and the folded line 23 of Example 1 maintains the same position as the designed folded line. ing. Moreover, the fit of the neckline 22 was good, and generation | occurrence | production of wrinkles around the neckline 22 was not able to be confirmed. On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 5B, in Comparative Example 1, compared with Example 1, the neckline 22 hangs down due to its own weight even though the collar 20 is light, and wrinkles occur around the neckline 22. Was confirmed. Therefore, in Example 1, the shape retention property of the shoulder part 21 including the neckline 22 was able to be confirmed. Further, FIGS. 6A and 6B are explanatory views showing sagging of the neckline 54 due to the weight of the sailor garment 10 produced in Comparative Example 1. FIG. The two-dot chain line in FIGS. 6A and 6B indicates the position of the design heel including the positions of the design neckline 50 and the fold line 51. As shown in FIG. 6A, in Comparative Example 1, when the neckline 54 hangs down by its own weight, the folded line 55 of Comparative Example 1 also falls, and the position of the designed folded line 51 cannot be maintained. Further, as shown in FIGS. 6A and 6B, the position of the heel (for example, the side portion 56 and the bottom portion 57 of the drooping portion 26) of Comparative Example 1 is the position of the design heel (similarly, The side part 52 and the bottom part 53) of the drooping part 26 are not fit in the outer part and the outer circumference is insufficient. 56 and the bottom 57 are located on the outer side. Therefore, it was found that the specific gravity of the heel 20 applied from the shoulder tip 15 to the upper back portion, in particular, the shoulder tip 15 is larger than that in Example 1, and the wearing feeling is lowered.
次に、保管テストにおける衿垂れ部２６の波打ちや反り、パッカリングについて評価した。図７（Ａ）に示すように、実施例１は、テスト終了後であっても衿垂れ部２６の表衿布３０側の側部２７及び底部２８ともに波打ちが確認されず、直線的で安定していた。また、衿垂れ部２６の下端である底部２８の左右両側に位置する角隅部２９おいては、反り返りが確認されなかった。一方、図７（Ｂ）に示すように、比較例１は、実施例１と比較して、衿垂れ部２６の側部２７及び底部２８ともに若干の波打ちが確認された。また、衿垂れ部２６の角隅部２９においては、内方向への若干の反り返りが確認された。さらに、図８（Ａ）及び図８（Ｂ）は、裏衿布３１側の底部２８からの実施例１と比較例１の写真であり、図８（Ｂ）において楕円で示した箇所に、縫製によるパッカリング（生地のゆがみ）に関する有意差が目視によって確認された。詳しくは、比較例１の衿垂れ部２６の裏衿布３１側の底部２８には、実施例１の衿垂れ部２６の底部２８には確認されなかった縫製によるパッカリング（生地のゆがみ）が確認されたものである。なお、図８の写真では一見すると顕著な差異が表現されていないが、実際には、表裏の衿布３０、３１の間の縫い目付近（上の方の楕円）や、表衿布３０にライン用のテープを縫い付けるための縫い目付近（下の方の楕円）にパッカリングに関して、実施例１と比較例１には明確な差異が目視によって確認された。 Next, the waving and warping of the drooping portion 26 and the puckering in the storage test were evaluated. As shown in FIG. 7A, in Example 1, even after the completion of the test, the side portion 27 and the bottom portion 28 on the front cloth 30 side of the drooping portion 26 are not confirmed to be wavy, and are linear and stable. Was. Further, no warping was confirmed at the corner portions 29 located on the left and right sides of the bottom portion 28 which is the lower end of the drooping portion 26. On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 7B, in Comparative Example 1, a slight undulation was confirmed in both the side portion 27 and the bottom portion 28 of the drooping portion 26 as compared with Example 1. Further, in the corner portion 29 of the drooping portion 26, a slight warping inward was confirmed. Furthermore, FIG. 8 (A) and FIG. 8 (B) are photographs of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 from the bottom part 28 on the back cover cloth 31 side, and in the part shown by an ellipse in FIG. 8 (B), Significant differences in puckering by sewing (fabric distortion) were confirmed by visual inspection. In detail, the puckering by the sewing which was not confirmed by the bottom part 28 of the drooping part 26 of Example 1 in the bottom part 28 by the side cloth cloth 31 side of the drooping part 26 of the comparative example 1 was demonstrated. It has been confirmed. 8, the difference is not expressed at first glance. Actually, however, the area near the seam (upper ellipse) between the front and back cloths 30 and 31 or the line on the front cloth 30 is shown. A clear difference was visually confirmed between Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 regarding puckering in the vicinity of the seam (lower ellipse) for sewing the tape for use.
次に、洗濯テストにおける衿垂れ部２６の波打ちについて評価した。今日の繊維製品の技術水準にあっては、洗濯によって何からの波打ちは発生するため、波打ちの多少や波の大きさ等の程度を評価した。図９（Ｂ）に示すように、比較例２は、衿垂れ部２６全体、つまり衿垂れ部２６の側部２７及び底部２８ともに波打ちが確認された。一方、図９（Ａ）に示すように、実施例２は、衿垂れ部２６の奥側の側部２７（図９（Ａ）においては上側）に波打ちが、衿垂れ部２６の底部２８に若干の波打ちが確認された。しかしながら、比較例２と比較して、全体的に浪の数が少ない上に波の大きさは小さく、衿垂れ部２６の手前側の側部２７（図９（Ａ）においては下側）と底部２８は直線的で安定していた。
また、図１０（Ａ）及び図１０（Ｂ）に示すように、実施例２、比較例２ともに衿垂れ部２６の底部２８に波打ちが確認されたが、比較例２は、衿垂れ部２６の底部２８全体に実施例２と比較して大きな波打ちが確認されたが、実施例２は衿垂れ部２６の底部２８の一部に若干小さな波打ちが確認されたのみで、比較的直線的で安定していた。よって、実施例２において、衿垂れ部２６の保型性が改善されていることが確認することができた。
Next, the waviness of the drooping portion 26 in the washing test was evaluated. In the technical level of today's textile products, undulations are caused by washing, so the degree of undulation and the magnitude of the waves were evaluated. As shown in FIG. 9B, in Comparative Example 2, undulation was confirmed on the entire drooping portion 26, that is, on the side portion 27 and the bottom portion 28 of the drooping portion 26. On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 9A, in Example 2, the wavy portion is on the side portion 27 on the back side of the drooping portion 26 (the upper side in FIG. 9A), and the bottom portion 28 of the drooping portion 26 is. Some undulations were confirmed. However, compared with the comparative example 2, the number of waves is generally small and the wave size is small, and the side portion 27 on the near side of the drooping portion 26 (the lower side in FIG. 9A). The bottom 28 was straight and stable.
Further, as shown in FIGS. 10A and 10B, in Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, undulation was confirmed at the bottom portion 28 of the drooping portion 26, but in Comparative Example 2 the dripping portion 26 In comparison with the second embodiment, a large undulation was confirmed in the entire bottom portion 28 of the second embodiment. It was stable. Therefore, in Example 2, it has confirmed that the shape retention property of the drooping part 26 was improved.
上記の保管性及び耐洗濯性の評価結果により、本願発明の実施例１〜実施例２においては、保管時や洗濯時における衿２０全体の保型性に優れ、波打ちとしてみられるしわやたるみ、パッカリング（生地のゆがみ）の発生を抑制することができた。なお、上記の実施例ではカシミヤ織の布地を用いたが、サージ織に代表される他のセーラー服用生地を用いることも可能である。本願発明は、実施例によって限定して理解されるべきではなく、特許請求の範囲に記載された範囲内で種々変更して実施可能である。 According to the evaluation results of the storage property and washing resistance described above, in Examples 1 to 2 of the present invention, the overall shape retention of the bag 20 at the time of storage and washing is excellent, and wrinkles and sagging seen as undulations, Occurrence of puckering (dough warping) could be suppressed. In the above embodiment, a cashmere fabric is used, but other sailor-clothes represented by surge weave can also be used. The present invention should not be construed as being limited by the embodiments, but can be implemented with various modifications within the scope of the claims.
１０ セーラー服
１１ 前身頃
１２ 後身頃
１３ 首挿入穴
２０ 衿
２１ 肩部
２２ 衿ぐり
２４ 衿先部
２６ 衿垂れ部
２７ 側部
２８ 底部
２９ 角隅部
３０ 表衿布
３１ 裏衿布
３２ 表芯地
３３ 裏芯地
３４ 全面芯地
３５ 部分芯地
５０ （設計上の）衿ぐり
５４ （比較例１の）衿ぐり
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 10 Sailor suit 11 Front body 12 Rear body 13 Neck insertion hole 20 衿 21 Shoulder portion 22 Round neck 24 Tip portion 26 Sag portion 27 Side portion 28 Bottom portion 29 Corner corner portion 30 Top cover cloth 31 Back cover cloth 32 Front core 33 Lined interlining 34 Full interlining 35 Partial interlining 50 (Design) Boring 54 (Comparative Example 1) Boring
Claims (1)
上記衿は、上記前身頃と上記後身頃とに渡って衿ぐりを含む位置に配設される肩部と、上記肩部から上記前身頃の左右前面に配設される衿先部と、上記肩部から上記後身頃に垂下される衿垂れ部とを備えたセーラー服において、
上記衿は、表衿布と裏衿布とがその周囲において縫着されたものであり、
上記表衿布は、その内面に表芯地を備え、
上記裏衿布は、その内面に裏芯地を備え、
上記表芯地と裏芯地とのいずれか一方は、上記衿の実質的に全体に渡って配設された全面芯地であり、
上記表芯地と裏芯地とのいずれか他方は、上記衿の肩部と上記衿垂れ部の双方に渡って配設されると共に上記衿先部には配設されない部分芯地であり、
上記衿垂れ部は下端の左右両側が直線同士の角になった角隅であり、上記部分芯地は左右の上記両角隅の部分には配設されていないことを特徴とするセーラー服。 A front body, a back body, and a collar attached around the neck insertion hole between the front body and the back body,
The heel includes a shoulder portion disposed at a position including a neckline across the front body and the back body, a heel portion disposed on the left and right front surfaces of the front body from the shoulder portion, In a sailor suit with a drooping part that hangs down from the shoulder to the back body,
The above heel is made by sewing the front and back cloths around the periphery.
The above surface cloth has a surface interlining on its inner surface,
The lining cloth has a lining on the inner surface,
Either one of the front interlining and the back interlining is an entire interlining disposed substantially over the entire ridge,
And the other of the above table interlining and back interlining, Ri moiety interlining der to limited the collar tip portion not disposed with disposed over both the shoulder and the collar drooping portion of the collar ,
A sailor suit according to claim 1, wherein the drooping portion is a corner where the left and right sides of the lower end are corners of straight lines, and the partial interlining is not disposed at the left and right corner portions .
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