JP5036350B2 - Patterned knitted fabric and clothing comprising the knitted fabric - Google Patents

Patterned knitted fabric and clothing comprising the knitted fabric Download PDF

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JP5036350B2
JP5036350B2 JP2007050421A JP2007050421A JP5036350B2 JP 5036350 B2 JP5036350 B2 JP 5036350B2 JP 2007050421 A JP2007050421 A JP 2007050421A JP 2007050421 A JP2007050421 A JP 2007050421A JP 5036350 B2 JP5036350 B2 JP 5036350B2
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yarn
knitted fabric
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宏樹 野村
昭二 下村
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Gunze Ltd
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Description

本発明は、添え糸編を利用した模様付き編地と該編地からなる衣類に関するものである。   The present invention relates to a knitted fabric with a pattern using a spliced yarn and a garment comprising the knitted fabric.

一般に、添え糸編は、例えば、特許文献1に示すように、2本の糸を編み針に給糸して一方の糸を編地の表側に表出させ、他方の糸を編地の裏側に表出させて編成される編み方であって、この組織は、平編み組織に属し、この組織の編地に、部分的に模様形成部を形成し、該模様形成部に透け感や通気性の差を持たせたり、パワー切替を行う場合、異なる物性の生地を縫い合わせなければならず、工数がかかる欠点があった。
これを改善するため、図5に示すような浮き編(float stitch:フロート編)が公知である。
In general, in the splicing knitting, for example, as shown in Patent Document 1, two yarns are fed to a knitting needle so that one yarn is exposed on the front side of the knitted fabric and the other yarn is placed on the back side of the knitted fabric. It is a knitting method that is knitted to be exposed, and this structure belongs to a flat knitting structure, a pattern forming part is partially formed on the knitted fabric of this structure, and the pattern forming part is transparent and breathable. When there is a difference between the two, or when the power is switched, fabrics having different physical properties must be sewn together, which has the disadvantage of man-hours.
In order to improve this, a floating stitch (float stitch) as shown in FIG. 5 is known.

この浮き編は、表裏2本の糸a、bを編み針nに給糸して編地を編成し、透け部pを形成する部分においては、編み針nに一方の糸aのみを給糸させ、他方の糸bは給糸せずに浮かした状態(フロート状態)で編んで透け感を出すようにしたものである。
ところが、この編み組織では、浮かす長さを長くすると、浮かした方の糸bが編成時に引っかかり(編み不良)を誘発しやすいという問題があり、その上、透け部pには、浮かした方の糸bと浮かしていない方の糸aとの2本の糸a、bが存在しているため、透け感や通気性が十分に出せず、他の身生地部分とのパワー差も余り顕著に出せないという問題点があった。
In this floating knitting, two yarns a and b on the front and back sides are fed to the knitting needle n to knit the knitted fabric, and in the part where the transparent portion p is formed, only one yarn a is fed to the knitting needle n. The other yarn b is knitted in a floated state (float state) without being fed to give a sense of sheerness.
However, in this knitting structure, there is a problem that when the floating length is increased, the floated yarn b is likely to be caught during knitting (knitting failure), and the transparent portion p Since there are two yarns a and b, which are the yarn b and the yarn a that is not floating, the sense of sheerness and air permeability cannot be sufficiently exerted, and the power difference from other body parts is notably significant. There was a problem that it could not be put out.

なお、上記編み不良の点を改善するために、図6に示すように、浮かす方の糸bを透け部pの全長に亘って浮かせるのではなく、途中で他方の糸aと共に編み針nに給糸して、ニットさせる部分qを設け、長距離をフロートさせないように工夫された技術も公知であるが、この技術においても、依然として、透け部pには2本の糸a、bが存在していることとと、フロート長さが短い(通常、2mm程度まで)ため、十分な透け感や通気性が得られないという問題点があった。
「横編技術入門」株式会社センイ・ジヤァナル編集・発行、著者 江尻久治郎、1970年3月1日初版発行 275頁〜280頁参照。
In order to improve the above-mentioned problem of knitting failure, as shown in FIG. 6, the yarn b to be floated is not lifted over the entire length of the transparent portion p, but is fed to the knitting needle n together with the other yarn a. There is also known a technique in which a portion q to be knitted and knit is provided so as not to float a long distance, but in this technique, there are still two yarns a and b in the see-through portion p. And the float length is short (usually up to about 2 mm), there is a problem that sufficient translucency and air permeability cannot be obtained.
"Introduction to horizontal knitting technology" edited and published by Senjian Co., Ltd., author Kojiro Ejiri, published first on March 1, 1970, pages 275-280.

従来技術には、上記した問題点があった。
本発明は、従来技術の上記問題点に鑑みて開発されたもので、その目的とするところは、編み不良が発生し難く、厚みが大きくならず、十分な透け感や通気性を備え、パワー差も実現することができ、また、必要に応じて、他の身生地部分との色違いを明確に表現することができる編地と該編地からなる衣類を提供することである。
The prior art has the above-mentioned problems.
The present invention has been developed in view of the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and the object of the present invention is that knitting defects are not likely to occur, the thickness does not increase, a sufficient sense of sheerness and breathability, It is also possible to provide a knitted fabric and a garment made of the knitted fabric that can also realize a difference, and can clearly express the color difference from other body parts as necessary.

前記目的を達成するために本発明の模様付き編地は、2本の糸を編み針に給糸して一方の糸を編地の表側に表出させ、他方の糸を編地の裏側に表出させて編成される添え糸編の編地で全体が構成されており、該編地の一部又は適所に模様形成部が形成されており、該模様形成部が、前記2本の糸のうちの一方の糸を編まずに切除して他方の糸のみで編成された透け模様部として形成されていることを特徴としている。
上記構成によれば、模様形成部が、前記2本の糸のうちの一方の糸を編まずに切除して他方の糸のみで編成された透け模様部として形成されているため、浮き編における浮き糸がなく、従って、編み不良が発生し難く、厚みが大きくならず、十分な透け感や通気性を備え、パワー差を実現することができる。
In order to achieve the above object, the patterned knitted fabric of the present invention feeds two yarns to a knitting needle so that one yarn is exposed on the front side of the knitted fabric and the other yarn is exposed on the back side of the knitted fabric. The whole is composed of a knitted fabric of spliced yarn knitted and knitted, and a pattern forming portion is formed at a part of the knitted fabric or at an appropriate position, and the pattern forming portion is formed of the two yarns. One of the yarns is cut out without being knitted, and is formed as a transparent pattern portion knitted with only the other yarn.
According to the above configuration, since the pattern forming portion is formed as a transparent pattern portion knitted with only the other yarn by cutting one of the two yarns without knitting, There is no floating yarn, therefore, knitting failure hardly occurs, the thickness does not increase, a sufficient sense of sheerness and air permeability is provided, and a power difference can be realized.

また、本発明の模様付き編地は、前記透け模様部が、編地のコース方向に少なくとも2mm以上の幅で構成されていることを特徴としている。
上記構成によれば、十分な透け感と通気性を持ち、身生地とのパワー差も大きい透け模様部を形成させることができる。
また、本発明の模様付き編地は、前記透け模様部が、編地の表側に表出する糸を切除して編地の裏側に表出する糸のみで構成されており、この透け模様部に前記切除された糸と色の違う別の糸を前記裏側表出糸と添え糸編して模様形成部が構成されていることを特徴としている。
Moreover, the knitted fabric with a pattern of the present invention is characterized in that the see-through pattern portion is formed with a width of at least 2 mm in the course direction of the knitted fabric.
According to the above configuration, it is possible to form a see-through pattern portion having a sufficient sense of sheerness and air permeability and having a large power difference from the body cloth.
Further, in the knitted fabric with a pattern of the present invention, the see-through pattern portion is composed only of a yarn that is cut out from the yarn exposed on the front side of the knitted fabric and exposed on the back side of the knitted fabric. In addition, the pattern forming portion is configured by knitting another yarn having a different color from the cut yarn and a spliced yarn on the back side.

上記構成によれば、模様形成部において、他の身生地部分との色違いを明確に表現することができる模様付き編地を容易に形成することができ、しかも、この色違いの糸は、透け模様部として切除された糸に置換した状態で編み込まれるため、他の身生地部分との厚みを同一とすることができ、滑らかな触感を付与でき、ごろつきなどの違和感をなくすことができる。
また、本発明の衣類は、前記の何れかに記載の模様付き編地を用いて構成されていることを特徴としている。
According to the above configuration, in the pattern forming unit, it is possible to easily form a knitted fabric with a pattern that can clearly express the color difference with other body cloth parts, and the yarns of different colors are Since it is knitted in a state where it is replaced with the thread that has been cut off as the transparent pattern portion, the thickness can be made the same as that of the other body cloth portion, a smooth tactile sensation can be imparted, and a sense of incongruity such as loosing can be eliminated.
Moreover, the garment of this invention is comprised using the knitted fabric with a pattern in any one of the above, It is characterized by the above-mentioned.

上記構成によれば、前述した特性を備えた衣類を提供することができる。   According to the said structure, the clothing provided with the characteristic mentioned above can be provided.

本発明によれば、編み不良が発生し難く、厚みが大きくならず、十分な透け感や通気性を備え、パワー差を実現することができ、他の身生地部分との色違いを明確に表現することができる編地と該編地からなる衣類を提供することができる。   According to the present invention, defective knitting hardly occurs, the thickness does not increase, sufficient translucency and air permeability can be realized, a power difference can be realized, and the color difference with other body cloth parts is clarified. A knitted fabric that can be expressed and a garment made of the knitted fabric can be provided.

以下、本発明の実施形態を図面に基づいて説明する。
本発明の編地1は、図1(A)(B)に示すように、2本の糸a、bを編み針nに給糸して一方の糸aを編地1の表側に表出させ、他方の糸bを編地1の裏側に表出させて編成される添え糸編の編地1で全体が構成されており、該編地1の一部又は適所に模様形成部2が形成され、該模様形成部2が、前記2本の糸a、bのうちの一方の糸aを編まずに切除して他方の糸bのみで編成された透け模様部3として形成されている。
このような編地1を編成するには、図2に示すように、模様形成部2の一端側、即ち、編み方向の始端側で切除しようとする方の糸aを、先ずカットし、その給糸側の糸端を給糸部近傍の当該糸aの糸道に配置したサクションノズルなどの吸気手段で吸引させて編み針nに給糸されないように保持させておき、他方の糸bだけを編み針nに給糸して編成させ、模様形成部2の他端側、即ち、編み方向終端側で前記吸気手段により吸引保持させていた糸aをカットし、吸引保持を解除させて、カット後の前記糸aを他方の糸bと一緒に編み針nに給糸させて添え糸編みを再開させるものである。
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
As shown in FIGS. 1A and 1B, the knitted fabric 1 of the present invention feeds two yarns a and b to a knitting needle n so that one yarn a is exposed to the front side of the knitted fabric 1. The entire yarn knitted fabric 1 is knitted with the other yarn b exposed on the back side of the knitted fabric 1, and a pattern forming portion 2 is formed at a part of the knitted fabric 1 or at an appropriate position. Then, the pattern forming portion 2 is formed as a transparent pattern portion 3 which is cut out without knitting one of the two yarns a and b without knitting, and is knitted only with the other yarn b.
In order to knit such a knitted fabric 1, as shown in FIG. 2, the yarn a to be cut off at one end side of the pattern forming portion 2, that is, the start end side in the knitting direction is first cut, The yarn end on the yarn supply side is sucked by suction means such as a suction nozzle disposed on the yarn path of the yarn a in the vicinity of the yarn supply portion and held so as not to be fed to the knitting needle n, and only the other yarn b is held. After the yarn is fed to the knitting needle n and knitted, the yarn a that has been sucked and held by the suction means on the other end side of the pattern forming portion 2, that is, the knitting direction end side is cut, the suction holding is released, and after cutting The yarn a is fed to the knitting needle n together with the other yarn b to resume the knitting yarn.

使用する糸a、bとしては、天然繊維糸、化学繊維糸、合繊糸等、特に制約はないが、少なくとも一方の糸を熱融着性を有する糸、例えば、ポリウレタン弾性糸で構成するのが好ましい。このような熱融着性を有する糸を用いて編成した添え糸編みの編地は、編成後に該熱融着性を有する糸の熱融着温度以上の温度でヒートセット又は熱圧着処理することにより、他方の糸に融着させておくことができるため、模様形成部において、切除された方の糸がその切断端から解れ出すことを確実に防止することができる。
なお、透け模様部3において、切除された方の糸aの切断端は、切断されていない方の糸b(編地1全体に連続して編成されている糸b)に介添え保持されているため、解れや抜けが防止され、編み目が解除するようなことは少ない。
The yarns a and b to be used are not particularly limited, such as natural fiber yarns, chemical fiber yarns, synthetic fiber yarns, etc., but at least one of the yarns is composed of a heat-fusible yarn such as a polyurethane elastic yarn. preferable. The knitted fabric of spliced yarn knitted with such heat-fusible yarn is subjected to heat setting or thermocompression treatment at a temperature equal to or higher than the heat-fusion temperature of the yarn having heat-fusibility after knitting. Therefore, the cut yarn can be reliably prevented from being unwound from the cut end in the pattern forming portion.
In the see-through pattern portion 3, the cut end of the cut yarn a is interleaved with the uncut yarn b (yarn b continuously knitted on the entire knitted fabric 1). Therefore, unraveling and omission are prevented, and the stitches are rarely released.

また、前記透け模様部3は、編地1のコース方向に少なくとも2mm以上の幅で構成されるのが好ましく、これによって、十分な透け感と通気性が得られるとともに、他の編地部分とのパワー差も付与することができる。
また、前記透け模様部3は、図3に示すように、編地1の表側に表出する糸aを切除して編地1の裏側に表出する糸bのみで構成されており、この透け模様部2に前記切除された糸aと色の違う別の糸cを前記裏側表出糸bと添え糸編して模様形成部2を構成してもよい。このようにすれば、模様形成部2において、他の身生地部分との色違いを明確に表現することができる模様付き編地を容易に形成することができ、しかも、この色違いの糸cは、透け模様部3として切除された糸aに置換した状態で編み込まれるため、他の編地部分との厚みを同一とすることができ、滑らかな触感を付与でき、ごろつき感などの違和感をなくすことができる。
Further, the see-through pattern portion 3 is preferably configured with a width of at least 2 mm in the course direction of the knitted fabric 1, thereby providing a sufficient sense of sheerness and air permeability, and other knitted fabric portions. The power difference can also be given.
Further, as shown in FIG. 3, the see-through pattern portion 3 is composed only of a yarn b which is cut out from the yarn a exposed on the front side of the knitted fabric 1 and is exposed on the back side of the knitted fabric 1. The pattern forming unit 2 may be configured by knitting another yarn c having a different color from the cut yarn a to the transparent pattern unit 2 and the backside exposed yarn b. In this way, the pattern forming unit 2 can easily form a knitted fabric with a pattern that can clearly express the color difference from other body parts, and this different color yarn c Is knitted in a state where it is replaced with the thread a cut out as the transparent pattern portion 3, so that the thickness of the other knitted fabric portion can be made the same, and a smooth tactile sensation can be imparted. Can be eliminated.

本発明において、上記透け模様部3の形成形状や、編地に対する形成位置、形成態様は、用途、目的等に応じて添え糸編の編地編成段階で適宜設定して構成することができるものである。
また、本発明は、前記の模様付き編地を用いてシャツ、パンツ、ストッキング、その他、各種の衣類を構成するものである。この場合、模様形成部2の形成位置や範囲並びに透け模様部3の形成形状や形成態様等は、対象となる衣類により、美感向上、通気性向上、パワー差付与の程度など、デザイン上、及び機能上など要求される条件に応じて総合的な観点から適宜設定されるものである。
In the present invention, the formation shape of the transparent pattern portion 3, the formation position with respect to the knitted fabric, and the formation mode can be appropriately set and configured in the knitting fabric knitting stage of the spliced knitting according to the application, purpose, etc. It is.
Moreover, this invention comprises a shirt, pants, stockings, and other various clothing using the patterned knitted fabric. In this case, the formation position and range of the pattern forming portion 2 and the shape and form of formation of the transparent pattern portion 3 depend on the design of the garment, the air permeability, the degree of power difference, etc. It is appropriately set from a comprehensive viewpoint according to required conditions such as functions.

図4は、上記衣類の一例として、トランクス形パンツ6に本発明を適用したもので、模様形成部2は、前面両側の大腿部7から両サイド部8を経てウエスト部9の後面に向けて斜め上に緩く湾曲させた帯状範囲10に形成されている。但し、この帯状範囲10は、下から上に向けて横方向幅が狭くなるように形成した場合を例示している。そして、この帯状範囲10に透け模様部3を横長で上下方向に等間隔で多段状に形成している。
他の衣類に適用する場合では、当該衣類の形状、部位の特性を考慮して、例えば、美感向上、通気性向上、パワー差付与の程度など、デザイン上、及び機能上などを考慮して模様形成部2及び透け模様部3を形成すればよい。
FIG. 4 shows an example of the garment in which the present invention is applied to trunks-type pants 6, and the pattern forming portion 2 is directed from the thigh portion 7 on both sides of the front surface to the rear surface of the waist portion 9 through both side portions 8. Thus, it is formed in a belt-like region 10 that is gently curved obliquely upward. However, this belt-shaped range 10 illustrates a case where the width in the lateral direction is narrowed from the bottom to the top. And the transparent pattern part 3 is formed in this strip | belt-shaped area | region 10 in multiple steps at equal intervals in the up-down direction horizontally long.
In the case of application to other clothing, the shape and part characteristics of the clothing are taken into consideration, for example, the design and function are considered in terms of design, functional improvement, etc. The formation part 2 and the transparent pattern part 3 may be formed.

(A)は本発明に係る添え糸編地の模様形成部の組織図、(B)はその編成部の概略説明図である。(A) is the organization chart of the pattern formation part of the spliced yarn knitted fabric which concerns on this invention, (B) is a schematic explanatory drawing of the knitting part. 図1の編地組織の模様形成部の編成方法の概略説明図である。It is a schematic explanatory drawing of the knitting method of the pattern formation part of the knitted fabric structure | tissue of FIG. 本発明に係る編地組織の模様形成部の別の編成態様の概略説明図である。It is a schematic explanatory drawing of another knitting aspect of the pattern formation part of the knitted fabric structure | tissue which concerns on this invention. 本発明に係る編地を用いた衣類の一例を示す正面図である。It is a front view which shows an example of the clothing using the knitted fabric which concerns on this invention. 従来の浮き編み組織の編成部の概略説明図である。It is a schematic explanatory drawing of the knitting part of the conventional float knitting structure | tissue. 従来の浮き編み組織の編成部の別の態様を示す概略説明図である。It is a schematic explanatory drawing which shows another aspect of the knitting part of the conventional floating knitting structure | tissue.

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

a 一方の糸
b 他方の糸
n 編み針
1 編地
2 模様形成部
3 透け模様部
a one thread b other thread n knitting needle 1 knitted fabric 2 pattern forming part 3 transparent pattern part

Claims (3)

2本の糸を編み針に給糸して一方の糸を編地の表側に表出させ、他方の糸を編地の裏側に表出させて編成される添え糸編の編地で全体が構成されており、該編地の一部又は適所に模様形成部が形成されており、該模様形成部が、前記2本の糸のうちの一方の糸を編まずに切除して他方の糸のみで編成された透け模様部として形成されており、
前記透け模様部が、編地の表側に表出する糸を切除して編地の裏側に表出する糸のみで構成されており、この透け模様部に前記切除された糸と色の違う別の糸を前記裏側表出糸と添え糸編して模様形成部が構成されていることを特徴とする模様付き編地。
The entire yarn is composed of a knitted fabric with spliced yarn that is knitted by feeding two yarns to the knitting needles and exposing one yarn to the front side of the knitted fabric and the other yarn exposed to the back side of the knitted fabric A pattern forming portion is formed in a part of the knitted fabric or in an appropriate position, and the pattern forming portion cuts one of the two yarns without knitting, and only the other yarn is cut. in is formed as a transparent pattern portions organized,
The see-through pattern portion is composed of only the yarn that is cut out on the front side of the knitted fabric and is exposed on the back side of the knitted fabric. pattern like with knitted the yarn you, characterized in that the pattern forming portion and yarn knitting accompanied with the backside exposed yarn is constituted.
前記透け模様部が、編地のコース方向に少なくとも2mm以上の幅で構成されていることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の模様付き編地。   The knitted fabric with a pattern according to claim 1, wherein the see-through pattern portion has a width of at least 2 mm in the course direction of the knitted fabric. 前記請求項1又は2に記載の模様付き編地を用いて構成されていることを特徴とする衣類。 A garment comprising the patterned knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2 .
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US8839532B2 (en) * 2011-03-15 2014-09-23 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear incorporating a knitted component
JP6134158B2 (en) * 2013-03-01 2017-05-24 グンゼ株式会社 Horizontal knitted fabric, horizontal knitted fabric knitting method and clothing
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