JP4955206B2 - Hair deformation reducing agent, hair deformation agent comprising hair deformation reduction agent, and hair deformation method using the hair deformation agent - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a hair deformation reducing agent, a hair deformation agent comprising the hair deformation reduction agent, and a hair deformation method using these hair deformation agents.

  As a method for semipermanently deforming hair, for example, there is a permanent wave or curling. The effects of permanent wave or curling are mainly the reduction effect of thiol on cystine constituting the hair and the oxidation effect of oxidizing agents such as bromate and hydrogen peroxide.

For example, the blending components of a normal hair deforming agent and the flow of deformation work are as follows.
(1) Form the desired design with the rod.
(2) Permanent wave or curling agent (reducing agent, alkali agent, purified water) is applied.
(3) Apply permanent wave or curling agent (oxidizer, purified water). (4) Plain rinse.

  As described above, in the permanent wave or curling forming means using the reducing agent and the oxidizing agent, it is necessary to wind the hair around the rod before applying the oxidizing agent to the hair. However, the operation of winding the rod has many drawbacks such as being complicated, time consuming, requiring skill, and difficult to get a finished image. Therefore, it has long been desired that a wave or curling is easily made by the heat of a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron, and that the wave or curling lasts semipermanently. As an attempt to make a wave or curling by using a high-temperature hair-styling iron or the heat of a trowel, for example, there is a method described in Patent Document 1 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-306212). However, the hair deformation according to Patent Document 1 is not satisfactory because the hair deformation is instantly removed when the hair gets wet with water during washing. In addition, including the method of deforming hair according to Patent Document 1, the wave is formed with a strong force using a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron, and at the same time, the wave shape after plain rinsing and before plain rinsing is substantially left. Was difficult with some prior art.

JP-A-5-306212

  The object of the present invention is to provide a hair deformation reducing agent that can be easily and semipermanently deformed by the heat of a high-temperature hairstyling iron or iron without using a rod, and the hair deformation reducing agent. By providing a hair deforming agent as a constituent and a hair deforming method using the hair deforming agent, there are problems in the permanent wave or curling method using the rod described in the background art, and the wave by the iron or iron The problem is to eliminate the problem of formation.

The first feature of the present invention is a hair deformation reducing agent 1 containing at least a reducing agent, an alkali agent, and water, wherein one or more organic solvents are highly blended. It is to provide an agent.
In the present invention, hair deformation refers to the case where the hair is deformed by applying the reducing agent for hair deformation to the hair and subjecting the hair to permanent wave or curling. This refers to the case where the reducing agent is applied and the wave is deformed straight.

  The hair deformation reducing agent 1 of the present invention needs to minimize the swelling of the hair due to water in order to prevent the hair deformation formed by a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron from the viewpoint. A larger amount is preferable. On the contrary, if the amount of the organic solvent is too large, penetration of the reducing agent into the hair is hindered. Therefore, the amount of water and the organic solvent is preferably 40 to 70% by weight of the organic solvent, 30 to 60% by weight of water, More preferably, the organic solvent is 50 to 60% by weight and water is 40 to 50% by weight. If the amount of the organic solvent is less than 40% by weight, the object of the present invention cannot be sufficiently achieved, and if it exceeds 70% by weight, it is difficult to dissolve the reducing agent and the stabilizer. However, the preferable range of the weight% of the organic solvent and water is affected by various factors described in the following paragraph (0015), for example, and the weight% of the above “more preferable” range as the content of the organic solvent. The effect shown as the evaluation of ◎ in the following (0028) paragraph cannot be achieved even in the case of adopting, and what is shown as the evaluation of ○ in the following (0028) paragraph, that is, the formation of the wave by the iron for hot hair or the iron Although the effect is not as strong as in the case of ◎ even after plain rinse, the effect may be limited to the extent that the wave within the target range remains, but such a thing is also within the scope of the present invention. include. The weight% is based on the total weight of the reducing agent for hair deformation.

The second feature of the present invention is that the one-component type comprising the reducing agent component for hair deformation as a component, or the oxidizing two agent in which the reducing agent component for hair deformation and an oxidizing agent are blended is a component. The object is to provide a hair deformation agent such as a two-component type. Further, as long as the effect of the reducing agent for hair deformation is not impaired, it may be a multi-agent type of three or more agents used in combination with other agents. If the effect of the reducing agent for hair deformation 1 is not impaired, the reducing agent 1 for hair deformation and the oxidizing agent 2 of the hair deforming agent such as the one-agent type or the two-component type are mixed with other agents immediately before use. It may be adjustable at the time of use. Moreover, various additive components can be added to these hair deforming agents. For example, a disulfide such as dithiodiglycolic acid may be used as a reaction modifier, and PPT may be used in combination as a hair protecting agent.

The third feature of the present invention is to provide a hair deformation method using a one-part, two-part, etc. hair deforming agent comprising the reducing agent for hair deformation as an essential component.
By using the hair deformation method of the present invention, it is possible to carry out hair deformation that can be easily and semi-permanently maintained by the heat of a hot hair styling iron or iron without using a rod. The problems in the permanent wave or curling method in the above-mentioned prior art using the above can be solved.

  The novel reducing agent for hair deformation, which is the first feature of the present invention, is obtained by adding an organic solvent to the reducing agent (reducing agent, alkali agent, water) conventionally used in, for example, permanent wave or curling formation methods. It is prepared by blending, and has the property of semipermanently maintaining the hair deformation state, that is, the wave or curling state, or the straight state made with a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron.

  The hair deformation method as the third feature of the present invention is the reduction of the hair deformation to the hair deformed into a wave or curling state or the hair or curling state into a straight state by a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron. Applying a hair deforming agent containing 1 agent as a constituent, and maintaining the deformed state of the hair semipermanently and practically acceptable based on the above-described excellent properties of the reducing agent for deforming hair It can be made to. It should be noted that the fact that the deformation state of the hair is maintained semipermanently differs depending on the hair washing method or the washing condition and the hair quality, but it is 20 in the hair washing method or the hair washing condition that is generally employed at home. More than once, preferably up to about 30 hair washing operations means that the applied hair deformation state is maintained to a practically acceptable level.

  The hair deformation reducing agent according to the present invention and the hair deformation agent containing the hair deformation reducing agent use a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron for any of the main body, packaging, instructions and promotional materials. The effect of forming a wave can be displayed. For example, a container (main body) containing each hair deforming agent, a package (outer box) of the container (main body), instructions contained in the package (outer box), pamphlets, flyers, etc. By displaying the wave forming effect on the advertisement, it can be clearly distinguished from the hair deformation reducing agent without such display or the hair deformation agent containing the hair deformation reducing agent. Hereinafter, the components of the hair deformation reducing agent 1 of the present invention will be described in detail.

Organic Solvent The organic solvent that can be used in the present invention is not limited to a specific one as long as it can achieve the object of the present invention, but is an index used for selecting a preferred organic solvent of the present invention. For example, the distribution coefficient (log P) of the reducing agent and the organic solvent is high or low. That is, when the partition coefficient (log P) of the organic solvent is higher than the partition coefficient (log P) of the reducing agent, the reducing agent does not move to the CMC (cell membrane complex) between the hair cuticles, and the organic solvent layer By selecting the reducing agent and the organic solvent so as to satisfy the relationship that the distribution coefficient (log P) of the reducing agent is higher than that of the organic solvent, the reducing agent can be sufficiently transferred to the hair. It is estimated that. Therefore, the distribution coefficient (logP) of the reducing agent is higher than the distribution coefficient (logP) of the organic solvent, which is an excellent effect that the organic solvent used in the present invention shows as evaluation of ◎ or ○ in the following paragraph (0028). It is considered that this is a preferable requirement for achieving the above.

  In addition, when a reducing agent for hair deformation in which the reducing agent is glyceryl monothioglycolate having a pH of 7.0 and the organic solvent is glycerin is used (this combination is referred to as glyceryl monothioglycolate-glycerin-based reducing agent 1) Even if washed with water after the application of the second oxidizing agent, a wave made of a high-temperature hair-styling iron or trowel can be provided semipermanently, and the effect can be achieved as an evaluation of ◎ in the following paragraph (0028). This is probably because the log P value of glyceryl monothioglycolate, which is a reducing agent, is about 0.1 at pH 7.0, and is more hydrophobic than the log P value of the solvent glycerin -1.33. However, even if the organic solvent and the reducing agent are selected on the basis of the log P value as described above and the above-mentioned effect ◎ can be achieved, other requirements such as the reducing power of the reducing agent to be used and The requirements based on the above log P values are reduced with organic solvents under the influence of various factors such as penetrating ability, molecular weight of organic solvent, liquid property (pH) of reduction agent 1 for hair deformation, and swelling degree of hair. Even in a combination that satisfies the agent, there may be a case where an excellent effect as shown by the evaluation of ◎ cannot be achieved. For example, in the glyceryl monothioglycolate-glycerin-based reducing agent 1, when the liquid property (pH) of the reducing agent 1 for hair deformation itself is 7.0, as shown above, excellent as indicated by ◎ The effect can be achieved, but when the liquidity (pH) is 9.0, the effect is ○. However, even the effect of ○ cannot be achieved with a conventionally known hair deforming agent by forming a wave with a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron.

Hydrophobicity based on the log P value is widely recognized as an important structure-activity relationship parameter such as drug transdermal absorbability, cell membrane permeability, drug efficacy, and toxicity. In particular, the logarithmic log P of the octanol / water partition coefficient P is It is widely used as a hydrophobic parameter. The larger the log P value, the higher the hydrophobicity. The distribution coefficient (log P) value in the present invention also refers to the logarithm log P of the octanol / water distribution coefficient P.
Specific organic solvents that can be used in the present invention include polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin (log P: -1.33), propylene glycol (log P: -0.47), ethylene glycol (log P: -0.79). , Polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol (log P: -0.37), etc., other ethanol (log P: -0.31), benzyl alcohol (log P: 1.46), n-butanol (log P: 0. 97) and the like.
The polyethylene glycol is represented by the formula H (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) nOH, and the n is preferably about 2 to 40.

  Also, from the results shown in Tables 1 and 2 below, when benzyl alcohol is used as the organic solvent, it is possible to leave a wave made with a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron regardless of the type of reducing agent. I was able to confirm that it was possible. This is because the percutaneous absorption enhancer reduces the barrier function of the stratum corneum of the skin, and benzyl alcohol relaxes the CMC structure between the hair cuticles, so that the reducing agent penetrates sufficiently into the hair. Presumed to have been made. Therefore, it is considered that the organic solvent having the above penetration promoting characteristics is a preferable requirement in order to achieve an excellent effect such as evaluation of “◎” in the following paragraph (0028) in the present invention. Also, when benzyl alcohol is selected as the organic solvent, the effect of ◎ described in the following paragraph (0028) cannot be achieved due to the influence of other requirements shown in the above paragraph (0015) as in the case of other organic solvents. In some cases, it is possible to achieve at least the effect of ○ described in paragraph (0028) below.

Examples of the organic solvent having a function of promoting the penetration of the reducing agent into the hair as described above include 2-benzyloxyethanol, p-methylbenzyl alcohol, as well as the above-mentioned benzyl alcohol, which have penetration promoting properties. Examples thereof include phenoxyethanol, 1-phenylethyl alcohol, 2-phenylethyl alcohol, O-methoxyphenol, and γ-butyrolactone. Even in these organic solvents, there are cases where the effect of ◎ described in the following paragraph (0028) cannot be achieved due to the influence of other requirements shown in the above (0015), but at least the following described in the following paragraph (0028): The effect of ○ can be achieved.
In addition, as shown in Table 1 and Table 2 below, the state of the formed wave is changed depending on the combination of the type of organic solvent used and the reducing agent. It can be expected that the object of the present invention can be achieved more by combining various solvents.

Water The water component constituting the hair deformation reducing agent 1 of the present invention includes a component that impairs the hair deformation function of the hair deforming iron 1 or iron that is a function of the hair deformation reducing agent 1 or the hair as described above Even if the deformation function is not impaired, water that does not contain a component that impairs the commercial value of the product of the hair deformation reducing agent, for example, a component that causes coloring such as reddening of the hair deformation reducing agent. Examples of the water component include deionized water, distilled water, pure water, and purified water.

Reducing agent and alkaline agent As the reducing agent and alkaline agent, the reducing agent and alkaline agent conventionally employed in one permanent wave agent can be used in the same manner. For example, as a reducing agent, thioglycolic acid (pH 7.0: -2.60, pH 9.0: -2.62) or a salt thereof, L-cysteine ethyl ester (pH 7.0: -0.03, pH 9.0) : -0.03), N-acetyl-L-cysteine (pH 7.0: -3.07, pH 9.0: -3.02), thioglycerin (pH 7.0: -0.63, pH 9.0: -0.71), thiolactic acid (pH 7.0: -2.39, pH 9.0: -2.44), glyceryl monothioglycolate (pH 7.0: 0.10, pH 9.0: -2.00) ), Cysteine such as L-cysteine (pH 7.0: -3.24, pH 9.0: -3.46) or salts thereof, cysteamine (pH 7.0: -2.47, pH 9.0: -1.36) Or the salt etc. are mentioned.
Examples of other reducing agents used in the present invention include sulfites and hydrogen sulfites. In addition, the parenthesis of each reducing agent indicates the log P value at pH 7.0 and pH 9.0.

The salts of the reducing agent are acceptable salts for hair cosmetics, and examples include ammonium thioglycolate, monoethanolamine thioglycolate, cysteine hydrochloride, cysteamine hydrochloride and the like. However, the reducing agent is shown by way of example, and the reducing agent that can be used in the present invention is not particularly limited to the above as long as the object of the present invention can be achieved. . Further, the amount of the reducing agent is appropriately determined in consideration of damage to the hair to which the reducing agent is applied, but is usually preferably 1 to 11% by weight, more preferably based on the total weight of the reducing agent for hair deformation. 3-7% by weight. However, the preferred amount of the reducing agent is not necessarily the same depending on the type.

  Examples of the alkali agent include ammonia, amino alcohols, basic amino acids, carbonates, phosphates, and caustic alkalis. The amount of these alkali agents used is preferably 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.20 to 6% by weight based on the total weight of the reducing agent 1 for deforming hair (however, aqueous ammonia is pure). Calculated as minutes).

Oxidizing agent 2 As the oxidizing agent used in the oxidizing agent 2, bromate, hydrogen peroxide, ozone, etc. are generally known, but the oxidizing agent used in the present invention is limited to these. It is not something.

The reducing agent for hair deformation of the present invention includes, in addition to the above-mentioned components, components usually used in known reducing agents for hair deformation, for example, surfactants as penetration and emulsifiers, and conditioning as a feel-improving agent. Components, fragrances, and the like can be appropriately selected and used within the scope of achieving the object of the present invention. Further, as a dosage form of the reducing agent for hair deformation of the present invention, any dosage form such as cream, lotion, gel, foam, spray, etc. may be adjusted as long as the object of the present invention can be achieved. I can do it.
Hereinafter, the effect of hair deformation caused by some combinations of the organic solvent and the reducing agent was tested, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. However, the combination of the reducing agent and the organic solvent of the present invention is not limited to those shown in Tables 1 and 2 below.

（注１）前表において溶媒が精製水の場合、該溶媒は全て精製水で構成される。ベンジルアルコール以外の有機溶媒量は全て５０重量％（残部は精製水）とした。また、ベンジルアルコールは溶解性の点から、ベンジルアルコール３０重量％、エタノール２０重量％（残部は精製水）とした。
（注２）還元剤は全て０．５５Ｍとし、ｐＨは９．０に調整。ただし、モノチオグリコール酸グリセリルのみはｐＨ７．０とした。

(Note 1) In the above table, when the solvent is purified water, all of the solvent is composed of purified water. The amount of organic solvent other than benzyl alcohol was 50% by weight (the balance being purified water). Benzyl alcohol was 30% by weight of benzyl alcohol and 20% by weight of ethanol (the balance was purified water) from the viewpoint of solubility.
(Note 2) All reducing agents are 0.55M and pH is adjusted to 9.0. However, only glyceryl monothioglycolate was adjusted to pH 7.0.

In Tables 1 and 2, the following test methods 1 to 4 were employed.
(1) Make a wave on the hair with a hot hairstyling iron.
(2) Application of reducing agent 1 of Table 1 and Table 2 (15 minutes after application)
(3) Oxidizing two-agent application used in the examples (15 minutes after application)
(4) Plain rinse (plane rinse is performed once)

The wave forming effects shown in Tables 1 and 2 were performed by comparing the shape of the wave state before and after the plain rinse according to the following evaluation criteria.
A: A wave is formed with a high-temperature hair-styling iron or trowel, and after applying the reducing agent 1 and the oxidizing agent 2 to the wave, a wave having the desired strength remains. Further, the shape of the wave is approximately before and after the plain rinse. A wave shape with almost no change in shape.
○: After forming a wave with a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron and applying a reducing agent 1 and an oxidizing agent 2 to the wave, the wave in the target range remains, although not as strong as in the case of The shape of the wave is almost the same as the wave shape before and after the plain rinse.
Δ: After forming a wave with a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron and applying a reducing agent 1 and an oxidizing agent 2 to the wave, only a weak wave remains, and the wave shape of the weak wave greatly changes due to plain rinse. It is only possible to confirm that the wave shape before plain rinse remains slightly.
X: After forming a wave with a hot hair-styling iron or iron and applying a reducing agent 1 and an oxidizing agent 2 to the wave, only a weak wave remains, and the wave shape of the weak wave greatly changes due to plain rinse. It is difficult to confirm the wave shape before plain rinse.

  In the permanent wave or curling formation mechanism using a reducing agent and an oxidizing agent, it is necessary to wind the hair around the rod before applying the oxidizing agent to the hair, and the operation of winding this rod is complicated and time consuming. However, there are many drawbacks such as requiring skill and difficulty in obtaining an image of the finish, etc. However, the hair deformation reducing agent 1 which eliminates these disadvantages, and the one agent formula comprising the hair deformation reducing agent 1 as a constituent component It was possible to provide a hair deforming method using a two-part type hair deforming agent, and further using the hair deforming agent.

Examples of the hair deformation reducing agent of the present invention, the hair deformation agent comprising the hair deformation reducing agent as a constituent, and a hair deformation method using the hair deformation agent are shown.

Healthy hair (using 30 cm, 50 bundles) using sample solutions (A) and (B) and an oxidizing two-agent solution for hair deformation containing an oxidizing agent as a reducing one-agent solution for deforming hair Was used as a test sample to conduct a wave formation test.
Reduction agent solution for hair formation (sample solution A):
Glycerin: 60% by weight, glyceryl monothioglycolate (80% concentration): 10.8% by weight, stabilizer: 0.20% by weight, aqueous ammonia (28% concentration): adjust sample solution A to pH 7.0 Amount, purified water: remainder

Reduction agent solution for hair deformation (sample solution B):
Benzyl alcohol: 30.0% by weight, ethanol (95% concentration): 24.0% by weight, ammonium thioglycolate (50% concentration): 12.0% by weight, stabilizer: 0.20% by weight, aqueous ammonia ( 28% concentration): amount to adjust the sample solution B to pH 9.0, purified water: remainder

Wave Forming Method After forming a wave on each of the above hair bundle samples with a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron, the sample solution (A) or (B) was applied and left at 40 ° C. for 15 minutes. Thereafter, two cold perm agents that are generally commercially available (bromate: 7.5% by weight, stabilizer: 0.20% by weight and purified water: remainder, phosphoric acid (89% concentration) and caustic soda The pH was adjusted to 7.0] and left for 15 minutes and washed with water. The hair sample shape thus obtained is shown in FIG. (2) in FIG. 1 is the wave shape of the hair to which the sample solution (A) and (3) are applied, and corresponds to the evaluation of ◎ in the paragraph (0028).

Comparative Example 1
For comparison, normal cold wave solution 1 agent (C) [ammonium thioglycolate (50% concentration): 12.0% by weight, stabilizer: 0.20% by weight, sample solution C to pH 9.0 Ammonia water (28% concentration) to be adjusted and purified water: the remainder] and hair in the same manner as in the Examples using two agents [the same as those used for the sample solutions (A) and (B)] The shape of the hair sample obtained by treating the bundle sample is shown in FIG. 1 (1). The retention of the wave shape after washing with water corresponds to the evaluation of x in the paragraph (0028).

  A sample solution (D) was prepared in the same manner as the sample solution A of Example 1 except that the amount of the organic solvent was 40% by weight. The wave shape of the sample solution (D) after washing with water is shown in FIG. 2 (6), and the retention of the wave shape after washing with water corresponds to the evaluation of ◯ in the paragraph (0028).

Comparative Example 2
Sample solutions (E) and (F) were prepared in the same manner as the sample solution A of Example 1 except that the blending amount of the organic solvent was 10% by weight and 30%. The wave shapes of the sample solutions (E) and (F) after washing with water are shown in FIGS. 2 (4) and (5). The retention of the wave shape after washing with water is as described above in the case of (4). [0028] It corresponds to the evaluation of x in the paragraph, and the case (5) corresponds to the evaluation of Δ in the paragraph (0028).

It is the figure explaining the retainability of the wave shape after water washing in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1. It is the figure explaining the retainability of the wave shape after water washing in Example 2 and Comparative Example 2.

Explanation of symbols

(1) Wave shape after washing with water of normal cold wave liquid (C) (organic solvent blending amount: 0% by weight) (2) Sample solution (A) (organic solvent blending amount: 60% by weight) Wave shape after washing of applied hair (3) Wave shape after washing of hair applied with sample solution (B) (organic solvent content: 52.8% by weight) Sample solution (E) (organic solvent Wave shape after washing of hair subjected to blending amount: 10% by weight (5) Wave shape after washing of hair subjected to sample solution (F) (organic solvent blending amount: 30% by weight) (6) Sample solution (D) Wave shape after washing with water (organic solvent content: 40% by weight)

Claims (5)

A hair deformation reducing agent used for hair deformation by a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron containing at least a reducing agent, an alkali agent, an organic solvent and water, wherein the organic solvent contains benzyl alcohol and ethanol , The blending amount is 40 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the agent, and the reducing agent is thioglycolic acid or a salt thereof, L-cysteine ethyl ester, thioglycerin, glyceryl monothioglycolate, cysteine or a salt thereof, cysteamine or A reducing agent for hair deformation, which is at least one selected from the group consisting of salts and thiolactic acid. A reducing agent for hair deformation used for hair deformation by a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron containing at least a reducing agent, an alkali agent, an organic solvent and water, wherein the reducing agent is glyceryl monothioglycolate and the organic solvent Is at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, n-butanol, ethanol and benzyl alcohol, and its blending amount is based on the total weight of the agent A reducing agent for hair deformation characterized by being 40 to 70% by weight. The hair is formed by a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron, and is applied to a hair deformation method in which a reducing agent and an oxidizing agent are applied to the wave and then plain-rinsed after the application to deform the hair. 1. A reducing agent for hair deformation according to 1 or 2. 4. The reducing agent for hair deformation according to claim 3, wherein there is almost no change in the shape of the wave state before and after plain rinse after application of the reducing agent and oxidizing agent. A hair deformation method comprising forming a wave with a high-temperature hair-styling iron or iron, applying the reducing agent 1 and the oxidizing agent 2 according to claim 1 or 2 to the wave, and performing plain rinse after the application.

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