JP4426347B2 - Method for producing spun yarn with excellent shrinkage resistance and anti-pilling property - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a manufacturing method excellent animal hair yarn to shrink resistance and pilling resistance.

  Animal wool knitted fabric has excellent functionality such as texture and moisture retention, and is widely used not only for clothing but also for underwear and socks.

  However, there are problems related to felt shrinkage and pilling problems in animal wool fabrics.

  Felt shrinkage is an intermediate layer of an exotic layer in the animal woolen knitted fabric that absorbs water when the epidermal tissue consisting of a three-layer structure (epicuticle layer, exoicle layer, and endocicle layer in order from the outer layer) on the surface of the animal hair fiber called scale is absorbed. The scale rises from the fiber main body (cortex) due to the bimetal action due to the difference in swelling between the innermost layer and the innermost endicle layer, and as a result, the adjacent scales are entangled with each other and the animal wool knitted fabric shrinks irreversibly. The difference in swelling between the two layers is caused by the difference in the absolute amount of cystine bond (-SS-) contained in both layers, and the endicle layer having a small absolute amount of cystine bond swells larger than the exoicle layer. Further, pilling refers to a ball-like or cocoon-like lump formed by tangling fluffs protruding on the surface of a woven or knitted fabric by friction or the like.

  Therefore, a processing technique (anti-shrinking process) that suppresses felt shrinkage performed on animal hair fibers and a processing technique (anti-pilling process) that suppresses the occurrence of pilling have long been studied.

  There are various types of shrink-proof processing, but a typical one is a processing technique called a chlorine hercoset method. Chlorine Hercoset method is a processing technology developed in 1962 by CSIRO (Australia Federal Scientific and Industrial Research Organization) and industrialized by IWS (International Wool Secretariat) in the early 1970s. It uses a large amount of chlorinated oxidant. Then, the scale surface portion of the animal hair fiber is dissolved and removed, and then the animal hair fiber surface is coated with a polyamide epichlorohydrin resin.

  Characteristically, it provides an excellent shrinkage-proofing effect to animal woolen knitted fabrics compared with other shrinkage-proofing processes and the cost is very low.

  There are various forms of anti-pilling processing. As an example, a thiol group (—C—SH) is introduced by allowing an oxygen-based oxidizing agent and a reducing agent to act on a small part of the cystine bond contained in the scale of animal hair fibers, and in the subsequent dyeing process, A processing technique is disclosed in which an exchange reaction between a thiol group and a cystine bond is caused in a chain manner starting from a portion into which a group is introduced, thereby eliminating distortion of the cystine bond (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

  This processing technology eliminates the internal distortion of the animal hair fibers and fixes the animal hair fibers in a stable shape, thereby suppressing the movement of the animal hair fibers constituting the animal hair spun yarn and improving the anti-pilling property of the animal wool weave. It is to improve.

  In addition, as an example of a processing technique that improves both shrinkage resistance and anti-pilling properties, the scale of animal hair fibers is modified using an oxygen-based oxidizing agent, and after acid reduction treatment and alkali reduction treatment, a polysiloxane type The processing technique which processes the said animal hair fiber with a compound is disclosed (for example, refer patent document 2).

In this processing technique, in particular, a persulfuric acid-based oxidizing agent is used as an oxygen-based oxidizing agent, and maleic acid is used in combination as a cross-linking blocking agent when the animal hair fiber surface is coated with a polysiloxane-based compound.
JP-A-8-74178 (paragraphs [0011], [0012] and [0018]) JP 2003-119664 A ([Claim 3] and paragraph [0058])

  However, an animal hair spun yarn made of animal hair fibers obtained by the above-mentioned chlorine hercoset method has the problem that it can impart excellent shrinkage resistance to animal wool knitted fabrics, but cannot impart anti-pilling properties. .

  In addition, the animal wool fabric knitted fabric obtained by the processing technique according to Patent Document 1 is excellent in anti-pilling property, but with regard to shrinkage resistance, it is cut only by eliminating the distortion of cystine bonds contained in the scale of animal fiber. Since there are very few cystine bonds, the bimetal action described above cannot be suppressed, and there remains a problem in the shrinkage resistance of animal wool knitted fabrics.

  Furthermore, in the processing technique according to Patent Document 2, an animal wool knitted fabric excellent in anti-pilling property can be obtained as in Patent Document 1, but a problem remains in terms of shrinkage resistance. The reason is that the fatty acid covering the epidermal layer located on the outermost layer of the animal hair fiber scale is not removed, so that the oxygen-based oxidant cannot sufficiently penetrate into the scale and oxidation of the cystine bond contained in the scale is not possible. Even if the cystine bond oxidized by two reduction treatments is cut reliably and the surface of the animal hair fiber is coated with a polysiloxane compound, the shrinkage of the animal wool knitted fabric is insufficient. It becomes a thing.

  As described above, an animal hair spun yarn that can maintain an excellent anti-pilling property as well as an excellent shrinkage resistance of an animal wool knitted fabric has not yet been developed.

  Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide an animal hair spun yarn capable of maintaining excellent anti-pilling property as well as excellent shrinkage resistance in an animal wool knitted fabric and a method for producing the same.

  As a result of repeated studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have converted a hydrophobic fatty acid covering the surface of the epidermal layer located in the outermost layer of the animal hair fiber scale into highly reactive hypochlorous acid. If it is removed with an acid-based oxidant and the oxygen-based oxidant is introduced so that it can easily penetrate into animal hair fibers, the oxygen-based oxidant can penetrate not only to the scale but also to the cortex to fully demonstrate its oxidation ability. As a result, the inventors have found that an appropriate reduction in strength and elongation occurs in the animal hair fiber, and that the anti-pilling property of the animal wool knitted fabric is greatly improved.

The present invention relates to a method for producing an animal hair spun yarn using a plit pad type continuous processing apparatus, the first step in which a hypochlorous acid oxidizing agent is allowed to act on the animal hair fiber, and the animal hair fiber. A second step in which an oxygen-based oxidizing agent having a concentration of 5 to 35 g / L is allowed to act; a third step in which a reducing agent is allowed to act on the animal hair fiber; and a fourth step in which the animal hair fiber surface is coated with a polyamide epichlorohydrin resin. is intended to subject matter a method for manufacturing animal hair yarn which comprises bets, further, the present invention, the oxygen-based oxidizing agent, peroxomonosulfuric acid, peroxomonosulfuric acid salts, peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxo A preferred embodiment includes a method for producing an animal hair spun yarn characterized by containing one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of disulfates.

  The animal wool spun yarn of the present invention provides an animal wool knitted fabric having excellent shrinkage resistance and good anti-pilling properties. Therefore, if the animal wool knitted fabric is used as a fabric, it can be used comfortably and functionally. Further, since the animal wool spun yarn of the present invention is excellent in whiteness, it is possible to produce a clear and fashionable product (a pre-dyed yarn or a post-dye) in the subsequent dyeing process.

  Moreover, according to the animal hair spun yarn manufacturing method of another invention of the present invention, a spun yarn having excellent shrinkage resistance and anti-pilling properties when made into a woven or knitted fabric as described above can be easily obtained. Moreover, existing facilities can be used, which is advantageous in terms of cost.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  First, animal hair fiber in the present invention refers to hair collected from sheep, goats, rabbits, alpaca or llama or similar animals, and animal hair spun yarn contains one or more kinds of these hairs. This refers to the yarns spun on.

The animal wool spun yarn of the present invention is an animal hair spun yarn characterized by satisfying all the following characteristic values (1) to (3).
(1) In the measurement of the felt shrinkage rate in accordance with the IWS TM31 method, the ISO 6330 5A program (5A washing) after the 5th washing of the ISO 6330 7A program (7A washing) is the standard of the felt shrinkage rate after 5 washings. The absolute value is 8% or less.
(2) JIS L1076.6.1. The anti-pilling property based on A method is 4th grade or more.
(3) The whiteness defined by the following formula expressed using the L * a * b * color system based on JIS Z8729 is 85 or more.
W = 100 − [(100−L *) ² + (a * ² + b * ² )] ^1/2
Where W: whiteness, L *: lightness index, a *: hue color coordinates, b *: saturation color coordinates.

  In the animal hair spun yarn of the present invention, the absolute value of the felt shrinkage is preferably 8% or less. This is because when the amount exceeds 8%, the object of the present invention is difficult to be achieved because it causes a loss of shape or wrinkles when used as clothing and cannot be used comfortably and functionally.

  In addition, the felt shrinkage | contraction rate in this invention is the value measured according to the west skater method described in IWSTM31 method. Specifically, after producing a flat knitted fabric made of animal wool spun yarn with a cover factor of 0.41 on a cylinder knitting machine with 500 needles and 20 gauges, and removing the effects of spinning oil and relaxation shrinkage Measure the felt shrinkage. If the spinning oil adheres to the animal wool spun yarn, the coating made of the oil prevents the flat knitted fabric from shrinking and accurate measurement values cannot be obtained.After knitting, the ethoxylated fatty alcohol penetrant is first added. 2% o. m. f Refine at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes with the processing solution. Next, in order to remove the influence of relaxation shrinkage, the flat knitted fabric is relaxed and contracted by washing once with 7A washing defined by the ISO 6330 7A program. “Shrinkage” of animal wool knitted fabric is the sum of this relaxation shrinkage and felt shrinkage. Relaxation shrinkage means that when animal wool knitted fabric swells with water, the strain applied during spinning, weaving knitting and dyeing is shrinkage. The relaxation shrinkage is always manifested even if the shrink-proof process is applied. In this way, after knitting, scouring and one washing of 7A are performed to remove the effects of the spinning oil and relaxation shrinkage, and the reference sample is used. Next, using this reference sample, JIS L1018.58.58.4. A test piece compliant with method a was prepared, and the apparent dimensional change rate according to JIS L1018.58.58.4 was calculated after 5 washes by 5A washing specified in the ISO 6330 5A program for this test piece. The absolute value of this value is defined as the felt shrinkage rate in the present invention.

  Moreover, in the animal wool spun yarn of this invention, it is preferable that anti-pilling property is a 4th grade or more. This is because when it is less than the fourth grade, when it is used as clothing, pilling appears and the appearance deteriorates, so that it cannot be used comfortably and functionally, so that the object of the present invention is hardly achieved.

  The anti-pilling property in the present invention is JIS L1076.6.1. It is a value measured by a method using an ICI type tester described in Method A. Specifically, a flat knitted fabric made of animal hair spun yarn having a cover factor of 0.41 was prepared on a cylinder knitting machine with 500 needles and 20 gauge, and an ethoxylated fatty alcohol penetrant was added at 2% o. m. Samples prepared by scouring at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes with the treatment solution containing f. Then, this sample is put into an ICI type testing machine for 5 hours, and graded according to JIS L1076.7.2, and this value is regarded as anti-pilling property in the present invention.

  Furthermore, in the animal wool spun yarn of the present invention, the whiteness is preferably 85 or more. This is because, if it is less than 85, it is difficult to achieve the object of the present invention because a clear color, particularly pure white, cannot be expressed in the subsequent dyeing process.

In addition, the whiteness in this invention is the value of the object color defined by the following formula represented using the L * a * b * colorimetric system based on JISZ8729.
W = 100 − [(100−L *) ² + (a * ² + b * ² )] ^1/2
Where W: whiteness, L *: lightness index, a *: hue color coordinates, b *: saturation color coordinates.
Specifically, a flat knitted fabric made of animal hair spun yarn having a cover factor of 0.41 was prepared on a cylinder knitting machine with 500 needles and 20 gauge, and an ethoxylated fatty alcohol penetrant was added at 2% o. m. Samples prepared by scouring at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes with the treatment solution containing f. Then, the brightness index L *, hue color coordinate a *, and saturation color coordinate b * of this sample are measured five times with a color difference meter, and W is calculated by substituting it into the above equation. The whiteness in the invention.

  Next, the manufacturing method of the animal wool spun yarn of this invention is described.

  The present invention is characterized in that a hypochlorous acid-based oxidizing agent and an oxygen-based oxidizing agent are sequentially acted on individual animal hair fibers constituting the animal hair spun yarn. In general, oxygen-based oxidizers are said to be inferior in capacity compared to the oxidative action of chlorine-based oxidants, but the present inventors have obtained the knowledge that this is an error. That is, the present inventors have found that oxygen-based oxidizing agents are not inferior in the ability of oxidizing action on animal hair fibers, and that their ability can be fully demonstrated if the means for application to animal hair fibers is improved.

  In short, since the fatty acid covering the epidermal layer located on the outermost layer of the animal hair fiber scale is water-repellent, this fatty acid prevents the oxygen-based oxidant from penetrating into the animal hair fiber. Therefore, in the present invention, first, a first step is performed in which a hypochlorous acid oxidizing agent is allowed to act on animal hair fibers. By this step, the fatty acid is removed, and the epiicle layer surface is hydrophilized.

  Next, the 2nd process which makes an oxygen type oxidant act on animal hair fiber is performed. By adopting such means, the oxygen-based oxidant penetrates to the cortex surface and fully exhibits its oxidizing ability, and can efficiently oxidize cystine bonds contained in the scale and cortex surface. Oxidized cystine bonds are efficiently cleaved by the subsequent reduction treatment (third step). Among them, the cleavage of cystine bonds contained in the scale contributes to the improvement of shrinkage resistance of the woven or knitted fabric, and is contained in cortex. The cleavage of the cystine bond contributes to the improvement of the anti-pilling property of the woven or knitted fabric by causing a moderate decrease in strength and elongation of the animal hair fiber. In the second step, since the oxygen-based oxidant penetrates to the cortex surface, the bleaching effect reaches the whole animal hair fiber surface. Thereafter, the animal hair fibers are resin-coated in the fourth step, which contributes to further improvement of the shrinkage resistance of the animal wool knitted fabric.

  As a processing apparatus for performing the above processing, for example, a scrap type continuous processing apparatus used in the chlorine hercoset method industrialized by IWS described above, a split pad type continuous processing apparatus manufactured by Millsner, etc. are used. However, in consideration of productivity, it is preferable to use a split pad type continuous processing apparatus capable of running at high speed.

  Then, it is preferable that these processing apparatuses are fed in the state of fiber aggregates, and the shape at that time may be either top or spun yarn. However, in order to obtain a higher effect, the fibers are appropriately opened. A fine top is preferable because the above-described various treatment agents can easily penetrate into the fiber.

  As mentioned above, in the method for producing animal wool spun yarn of the present invention, it is only necessary to include the above four steps as essential steps, and the steps applied before and after the above four steps are not particularly limited. . Therefore, the above four steps may be incorporated based on a conventional method for producing animal wool spun yarn.

  Hereinafter, the method for producing the animal hair spun yarn of the present invention will be described in more detail by taking as an example the case where the animal hair top is put into a split pad type continuous processing apparatus.

  First, the animal hair top produced through the steps of preparation of the animal hair top, that is, hair washing, curd, re-washing, combing, and finishing gill is put into the processing apparatus. And as a 1st process of this invention, a hypochlorous acid type oxidizing agent process is performed. As a result, the hydrophobic fatty acid covering the epidermal layer of animal hair fibers is removed. This is for guiding the oxygen-based oxidant used in the second step to easily penetrate not only to the scale but also to the cortex.

  It is considered that the fatty acid is bonded to the epidermal layer through a thioester bond, and the hypochlorous acid-based oxidant acts on the thioester bond to break the bond. As a result, the fatty acid is removed and the surface of the epidermal layer that is hydrophilic appears. At this time, it is considered that a part of the hypochlorous acid-based oxidant acts on the surface portion of the epitaxy layer to oxidize the cystine bond contained in the surface portion of the epilayer and chlorinate the polypeptide bond.

  Since hypochlorous acid-based oxidants have the effect of yellowing animal hair fibers, the oxidation and chlorination of epicuticle layers by hypochlorous acid-based oxidants should be limited to the extent that they do not progress into the epicuticle layer. preferable.

  Examples of the hypochlorous acid-based oxidizing agent used in the first step include hypochlorous acid and metal salts of hypochlorous acid such as sodium hypochlorite. Since the hypochlorous acid-based oxidant has a very high reactivity, the fatty acid covering the surface of the epitaxy layer is efficiently removed, and the penetration of the oxygen-based oxidant to the scale and cortex surface is sufficiently promoted.

  The effective chlorine amount of the hypochlorous acid oxidizing agent used in the first step is 0.5 to 2.5 o.m. m. f is preferred, and 1.0-2.2o. m. f is more preferable. 0.5o. m. If it is less than f, the fatty acid is not sufficiently removed, so that a sufficient permeation route of the oxygen-based oxidant to the fiber cannot be secured, and the oxidation reaction and chlorination reaction on the surface of the epitaxy layer tend to be insufficient. It is not preferable. On the other hand, 2.5o. m. If it exceeds f, the hypochlorous acid-based oxidant penetrates into the epicuticle layer, and the yellowing action of the hypochlorous acid-based oxidant tends to result in animal hair fibers having inferior whiteness. In the first step, a water-soluble treatment solution having a pH of 1.0 to 3.0 containing the hypochlorous acid-based oxidizing agent as described above is attached to animal hair fibers by a shower or impregnation method in a split pad bath. At this time, it is preferable to use a penetrant such as ethoxylated fatty alcohol in combination so that the above-described removal of the fatty acid is uniformly performed.

  Next, as a second step, oxygen-based oxidant treatment is performed. Thereby, a part of cystine bond contained in a scale and cortex is oxidized. Since the epitaxy layer surface is hydrophilized in the first step, the oxygen-based oxidant continuously penetrates from this portion into the scale and finally penetrates to the cortex surface. The oxygen-based oxidant efficiently oxidizes cystine bonds, but unlike chlorine-based oxidants, it is considered that the oxygen-based oxidant hardly acts on polypeptide bonds.

  The purpose of the second step is mainly two, and the first purpose is to prepare the former as a preparatory step for cleaving the cystine bond for the purpose of making the hydrophilicity of the exoicle layer comparable to the hydrophilicity of the endocicle layer. It is oxidation of the same bond. As described above, in the normal animal hair fiber, the endocicle layer swells relatively larger than the exoicle layer, and the animal wool knitted fabric is felt contracted. Therefore, in order to improve the shrinkage resistance of the animal wool knitted fabric, it is preferable that the hydrophilicity of both layers is the same.

  The second object is to oxidize cystine bonds as a preparatory stage for cutting the cystine bonds on the cortex surface to reduce the strength and elongation of animal hair fibers. The moderate decrease in strength and elongation of the animal hair fibers contributes to the improvement of the anti-pilling property of the animal wool knitted fabric.

  Moreover, although it is a secondary effect, the whiteness of animal hair fiber can be improved according to this process. Since the oxygen-based oxidizing agent has a function of bleaching the animal hair fiber, the entire surface of the animal hair fiber is bleached by being oxidized to the surface of the cortex. Thereby, a clear color can be expressed by subsequent dyeing process.

  Examples of the oxygen-based oxidizing agent used in the second step include potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, peracetic acid, performic acid, peroxomonosulfuric acid, peroxomonosulfate, peroxodisulfuric acid, and peroxodisulfate. Among these, peroxomonosulfuric acid, peroxomonosulfate, peroxodisulfuric acid or peroxodisulfate is particularly preferable because of its strong oxidizing power for cystine bonds.

  The concentration of the oxygen-based oxidant used in the second step is preferably 5 to 35 g / L, more preferably 10 to 25 g / L. If the amount is less than 5 g / L, the absolute amount of the oxygen-based oxidant is small, so that the absolute amount of the cystine bond that is oxidized decreases, and the shrinkage resistance and / or anti-pilling property of the woven or knitted fabric tends to decrease. On the other hand, when it exceeds 35 g / L, oxidation proceeds more than necessary on the surface of the cortex, which tends to cause problems in practical use, which is not preferable.

  In the second step, a water-soluble treatment solution having a pH of 1 to 2 containing the oxygen-based oxidizing agent as described above is attached to animal hair fibers by a shower or impregnation method. At this time, it is preferable to use a penetrant for the purpose of increasing the permeability of the oxygen-based oxidant to animal hair fibers, and it is preferable to use a catalyst for the purpose of increasing the oxidizing power of the oxygen-based oxidant. Examples of penetrants in this case include ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and examples of the catalyst include oxides, chlorides or sulfuric acids of metals selected from the group consisting of magnesium, copper, iron, zinc, nickel, cobalt and manganese. An example is a compound. The amount of catalyst used is preferably 1 to 20 g / L, more preferably 1 to 10 g / L.

  Next, as a third step, a reducing agent treatment is performed. In this step, it is considered that the cystine bond oxidized by the oxygen-based oxidizing agent in the second step is cleaved. In addition, the cystine bond oxidized by a part of the hypochlorous acid-based oxidizing agent used in the first step on the surface portion of the epidermal layer located in the outermost layer of the animal hair fiber scale, and the oxidizing agent It is thought that the polypeptide bond chlorinated by a part of is also cleaved by the reducing agent. The cystine bond is considered to be cleaved only by this reduction treatment, and the first and second objects described in the second step are achieved.

  In this step, a thiol group and a Bunte salt residue are generated from a cystine bond oxidized by an oxygen-based oxidant. A sulfonic acid group and a sulfinic acid group are generated from a cystine bond oxidized by a hypochlorous acid oxidizing agent, and a carboxyl group and an amino group are generated from a chlorinated polypeptide bond.

  Examples of the reducing agent used in the third step include sodium bisulfite, sodium sulfite, and sodium carbonate. In the third step, a water-soluble treatment liquid having a pH of 7.5 to 9.0 containing the reducing agent as described above is attached to animal hair fibers by a shower or an impregnation method. In this case, the alkaline aqueous solution generally embrittles the animal hair fibers, and the degree thereof tends to progress as the liquid temperature of the alkaline aqueous solution increases. Therefore, the liquid temperature of the water-soluble treatment liquid should be 20 to 30 ° C. preferable.

  Next, as a fourth step, the animal hair fiber surface is coated with a polyamide epichlorohydrin resin.

  The purpose of the fourth step is to further improve the shrinkage resistance of the animal wool knitted fabric by coating the animal hair fiber surface with the resin. The resin is hydrophilic and swells when it absorbs water, and the swollen coating is thought to hold down the scales that are about to stand up due to the bimetallic action, and the use of the resin further improves the shrinkage resistance of animal wool and knitted fabrics. is there.

  At this time, the cationic group azetidinium ion contained in the polyamide epichlorohydrin resin and the anionic group formed on the surface of the epidermal layer located in the outermost layer of the animal hair fiber scale in the third step, that is, Bunte salt It is considered that the surface of animal hair fibers is uniformly coated with the same resin by ionic bonding of the residue, sulfonic acid group and carboxyl group.

  Moreover, although it is a secondary effect, the texture of animal wool fabric can be improved by this process. If the surface of the animal hair fiber is coated with a polyamide epichlorohydrin resin, the flexibility of the animal hair fiber is increased, which can contribute to the texture of the animal wool knitted fabric, particularly the soft feeling.

  In the fourth step, a water-soluble treatment liquid containing the resin as described above is attached to animal hair fibers by a shower or impregnation method. At this time, it is preferable to use an alkaline compound such as sodium carbonate to adjust the pH of the treatment liquid to 7.0 to 8.0 because the above-described ion binding reaction is further promoted.

  The animal hair fiber manufacturing method of the present invention includes the above-described four steps as essential steps, but other steps such as softening, water-repellent processing, or application of spinning oil may be appropriately performed according to the purpose. . After the above steps are completed, the animal hair fibers are preferably dried, and the drying temperature at that time is preferably 100 ° C. or lower in order to avoid thermal yellowing of the animal hair fibers.

  Here, the consideration about the effect which the animal hair fiber made by this invention contributes to the anti-pilling property of an animal woolen knitted fabric will be put together.

  The animal hair fiber made by the present invention is affected by the oxygen-based oxidizing agent and the reducing agent up to the cortex surface, and causes a moderate decrease in strength and elongation due to a decrease in molecular weight.

  Here, since the fiber strength is low, the pilling is easily dropped from the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and an increase in pilling can be suppressed.

  Further, since the fiber elongation is low, it is possible to suppress the growth of pilling generated on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. The reason is as follows.

  When the fiber is cut by external friction, the fiber shrinks by forming a coiled loop from the cut end. At this time, if the elongation of the fiber is high, the number of loops is increased, and at the same time, the size of the loop is also reduced, the degree of entanglement of the fibers is increased, and strong pilling is formed. When this phenomenon is caused between adjacent fibers, the adjacent pillings are intertwined with each other, and the pillings grow gradually. In this respect, since the elongation is lower than the above, the growth of pilling is suppressed.

As described above, in the present invention, from the viewpoint of the anti-pilling property of the animal wool knitted fabric, the strength of the animal hair fiber is lower than that of the unprocessed animal hair fiber. Not preferable. Lowering the strength lowers the tensile strength and tear strength of the woven or knitted fabric, and lowering the elongation lowers the bending strength of the woven or knitted fabric and thereby hardens the texture. Therefore, in consideration of the harmony between practical use and anti-pilling properties, the animal wool spun yarn of the present invention retains 60 to 90% in both strength and elongation as compared with an unprocessed animal hair spun yarn. Is preferable, and it is more preferable to hold | maintain 70 to 85%.
(Example)
Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, the characteristics of the wool spun yarn described in the examples are evaluated as follows.
(1) Tensile strength measuring instrument: Tensilon tensile tester manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd. Measuring condition: Constant speed tension method based on JIS L1095.9.5.1, with a grip interval of 50 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm / min. Measurement was made 50 times, and the average value was defined as the strong elongation of the woolen spun yarn.
(2) Anti-pilling measuring instrument: ICI type testing machine manufactured by Daiei Kagaku Seisakusho Co., Ltd. Measuring conditions: A flat knitted fabric with a cover factor of 0.41 was prepared with a cylinder knitting machine with 500 needles and 20 gauges. JIS L1076.6.1 described above. The anti-pilling property of woolen spun yarn was measured by a method according to Method A.
(3) Whiteness measuring device: Konica Minolta Sensing Co., Ltd. color difference meter “CR-200 (trade name)”
Measurement conditions: A flat knitted fabric with a cover factor of 0.41 was prepared with a cylinder knitting machine with 500 needles and 20 gauge, and after scouring, it was displayed in the L * a * b * color system according to JIS Z8729 described above. The object color was the whiteness of the wool spun yarn.
(4) Felt shrinkage washing machine: Microlux-type dewatering washing machine “FOM71MRLAB (trade name)” manufactured by Electrolux Japan Co., Ltd.
Measurement conditions: A flat knitted fabric with a cover factor of 0.41 was prepared on a cylinder knitting machine with 500 needles and 20 gauges, and after scouring, 5A based on 1A after washing 7A according to the IWS TM31 method described above The apparent dimensional change rate after 5 washes was calculated, and the absolute value of this value was defined as the felt shrinkage rate of the woolen spun yarn.

  A wool top with a mass of 25 g / m, produced by the known woolen spinning method, ie, washing, curd, re-washing, combing and finishing gilling, of Australian wool fibers with an average diameter of 21 μm and an average fiber length of 44 mm. 32 were prepared.

  Next, the 32 wool tops were simultaneously charged into a Sprit pad type continuous processing apparatus manufactured by Millsner, which comprises a split pad tank, five back washer tanks and a dryer. The processing speed was 2.5 m / min.

  First, as a first step, in a split pad tank, 5 g / L of 98% sulfuric acid, 5 g / L of ethoxylated fatty alcohol (penetrant “Alcopol 650 (trade name)” manufactured by Ciba Specialty Chemicals) and effective chlorine Amount 1.0% o.d. m. A water-soluble treatment solution having a pH of 1.5 containing sodium hypochlorite f was sprayed onto the wool top by a shower method, washed with water for 60 seconds, and then squeezed with a mangle so that the wet pickup would be 40%.

  Next, the wool top which passed through the 1st process was conveyed to the backwasher 1st tank in which the 2nd process is performed. In this step, potassium peroxomonosulfate (oxygen oxidizer “Oxone (trade name)” manufactured by DuPont) 20 g / L, sulfuric acid 5 g / L and magnesium sulfate 5 g / L as a catalyst, pH 1.2, liquid temperature 40 The wool top was impregnated in a water-soluble treatment solution at 0 ° C. for 25 seconds.

  The wool top that has undergone the second step is transported to the second tank of the backwasher where the third step is performed, and is water-soluble at a pH of 9.5 and containing 20 g / L of sodium sulfite and 5 g / L of sodium carbonate. Reduction treatment was performed by impregnating the treatment liquid for 25 seconds.

  Furthermore, the wool top that has undergone the third step is transported to the third tank of the backwasher, washed with water at 30 ° C. for 25 seconds, and then transported to the fourth tank of the backwasher. As the fourth step, polyamide epichlorohydrin resin (Dick The surface of wool fiber is impregnated for 25 seconds with a water-soluble treatment solution at a pH of 8.0 and a solution temperature of 40 ° C. containing 20 g / L and sodium bicarbonate 5 g / L. Was resin coated.

  Next, the wool top that has undergone the first to fourth steps is then conveyed to the fifth tank of the backwasher, and the alkylamide amine derivative (softener “Zontes B-9 (trade name)” manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) It was softened by impregnation with a water-soluble treatment liquid containing 20 g / L at a liquid temperature of 60 ° C. for 25 seconds, and subsequently dried at 90 ° C. for 10 minutes in a dryer.

  Next, the dried wool top is put into the pre-spinning process and then finely spun, and then the animal wool spun yarn of the present invention of 48-twisted yarn (metric type) having an upper twist S300 T / m and a lower twist Z500 T / m. Got.

  The animal hair spun yarn of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the catalyst magnesium sulfate was not used in the second step.

The animal wool spun yarn of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 20 g / L of potassium peroxomonosulfate contained in the water-soluble treatment liquid used in the second step was changed to 20 g / L of potassium permanganate. Obtained.
(Comparative Example 1)
A comparative animal hair spun yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the first step was omitted.
(Comparative Example 2)
A comparative animal hair spun yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the second step was omitted.
(Comparative Example 3)
A comparative animal hair spun yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the third step was omitted.
(Comparative Example 4)
A comparative animal hair spun yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the fourth step was omitted.
(Comparative Example 5)
Effective chlorine amount contained in water-soluble treatment liquid used in the first step is 1.0% o. m. f of sodium hypochlorite with an effective chlorine content of 1.0% o. m. A comparative animal hair spun yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that f wasocyanuric dichloride was used.
(Comparative Example 6)
Example 1 except that 20 g / L of the polyamide epichlorohydrin resin contained in the water-soluble treatment liquid used in the fourth step is changed to 20 g / L of amino-modified silicone resin (“BASOLAN MW (trade name)” manufactured by BASF). Similarly, animal hair spun yarn for comparison was obtained.

  The properties of the wool spun yarn obtained in the examples and comparative examples as described above are shown in Table 1 below together with the properties of the raw wool spun yarn.

上記表1に示された内容から明らかなように、本発明の実施例１，２の羊毛紡績糸は、羊毛織編物に優れた防縮性と良好な抗ピリング性とを付与できるものである。よって、該羊毛紡績糸を用いて快適で機能的な服地用織編物が提供できる。さらに、白度にも優れるため後の染色加工において鮮明でファッショナブルな製品（先染糸又は後染反）を作製することができる。実施例３の羊毛紡績糸は、第２工程においてペルオキソ一硫酸水素カリウムよりも酸化及び漂白作用に劣る過マンガン酸カリウムが使用された結果、防縮性，抗ピリング性及び白度のいずれにおいても実施例１，２ほどの性能を持ち合わせていなかった。

As is apparent from the contents shown in Table 1, the wool spun yarns of Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention can impart excellent shrinkage resistance and good anti-pilling properties to the wool knitted fabric. Therefore, a comfortable and functional woven or knitted fabric for clothing can be provided using the wool spun yarn. Furthermore, since the whiteness is also excellent, a clear and fashionable product (a pre-dyed yarn or a post-dye) can be produced in the subsequent dyeing process. The wool spun yarn of Example 3 was subjected to any of shrinkage resistance, anti-pilling property, and whiteness as a result of using potassium permanganate which was inferior in oxidation and bleaching action than potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate in the second step. It did not have the performance of Examples 1 and 2.

  In addition, the wool spun yarns of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were produced without any of the steps essential in the present invention, and were sufficient to provide a comfortable, functional and fashionable woven or knitted fabric for clothing. I did not have.

In Comparative Example 5, since isocyanuric dichloride was used as the chlorinated oxidant, removal of the fatty acid covering the epidermal layer of the wool fiber was insufficient, and the oxygen-based oxidant could not sufficiently penetrate the wool fiber. It was inferior to Examples 1 and 2 in all of property, anti-pilling property and whiteness. In Comparative Example 6, an amino-modified silicone resin was used as a resin for coating the wool fiber, so that it could not be ionically bonded to the epitaxy layer surface, and a uniform film was not formed, so that the shrinkage resistance was poor. became.

Claims (2)

  A method for producing an animal hair spun yarn using a split-pad type continuous processing apparatus, comprising a first step in which a hypochlorous acid oxidizing agent is allowed to act on animal hair fibers, and a concentration of 5 to 35 g on the animal hair fibers. A second step in which a / L oxygen-based oxidizing agent is allowed to act; a third step in which a reducing agent is allowed to act on the animal hair fiber; and a fourth step in which the surface of the animal hair fiber is coated with a polyamide epichlorohydrin resin. A method for producing animal hair spun yarn characterized by The oxygen-based oxidizing agent, peroxomonosulfuric acid, peroxomonosulfuric acid salt, according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a peroxodisulfate and one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of peroxodisulfate animal hair A method for producing spun yarn.