JP4319627B2 - Warp elastic fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a warp-stretch twill fabric having a face side and a back side and comprising non-elastomeric ends and bare elastomeric ends wherein the ratio of non-elastomeric ends to bare elastomeric ends is from about 2:1 to about 6:1; an elastomeric end face exposure count of 2 occurs less frequently than once per 10 picks; and the elastomeric ends float over no more than 3 picks on the face side.

Description

  The present invention relates to warp stretch woven fabrics, and in particular to twill fabrics that include bare elastomeric ends.

  The warp elastic fabric is disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication (Patent Document 1) and Japanese Patent Publication (Patent Document 2), and the elastomer fiber that gives stretch is covered with a non-elastomeric fiber such as nylon or polyester, A composite yarn is made and the composite yarn is sized, dried and warped before weaving. These production steps make elastomeric fibers more expensive.

  US Patent Publication (Patent Document 3) discloses a fabric in which the spandex is twisted before weaving into a tangled structure to prevent elastomer fibers from slipping and close the fabric pinhole. However, leno fabrics are usually too textured and expensive for use in apparel.

  UK Patent Gazette (Patent Document 4), US Patent Publication (Patent Document 5) and Non-Patent Document 1 disclose a narrow warp stretchable plain weave for a waistband or bandage where the elastane yarn is exposed on the fabric surface. ing. Such exposure is unacceptable for apparel fabrics due to the undesired “blowing” of elastane.

  The British Patent Gazette (Patent Document 5) illustrates warp stretchable plain fabrics, where the spandex is bare, but such fabrics also show eyes.

JP 47-021274 A JP-A-3-287833 US Pat. No. 3,169,558 British Patent 2,201,976 US Pat. No. 4,164,963 British Patent 1,513,273 US Pat. No. 5,981,686 US Pat. No. 5,948,875 US patent application Ser. No. 09/790422 US Pat. No. 6,216,747 Research Disclosure 25849 (October 1985)

  There is a need for improvements in warp stretch twill.

The present invention is a warp stretch twill fabric having a front side and a back side, and comprising a non-elastomeric end and a bare elastomeric end,
The ratio of non-elastomeric end to elastomeric end is at least about 2: 1;
The ratio of non-elastomeric end to elastomeric end is about 6: 1 or less;
Elastomeric end surface exposure count of 2 rarely exceeds 1 time per 10 picks,
Provided is a warp stretchable twill fabric in which an elastomer end floats on the front side by 3 picks or less.

  The present invention provides warp stretch twill fabrics comprising regular, herringbone and tapered twills made from bare elastomeric ends that exhibit little or no core.

  Examples of regular twill include 2/1, 1/2, 1/3, and 2/2 twill. A modified twill with an additional lift in the plane is also within the scope of the present invention. It was also surprising that such woven fabrics could be made with bare elastomeric ends with little slippage. This is because frequent weaving of warp and weft fibers (end and pick, respectively) unique to plain weave and similar structures was considered necessary to control shifting.

  In this specification, the “bare elastomer end” has an elongation at break exceeding 100% independently of crimping, and when the length is doubled, held for 1 minute and then loosened, the loosened 1 minute Means uncovered continuous filaments (optionally combined multifilaments) or a plurality of filaments in the warp direction, shrinking to less than 1.5 times the original length within, without diluent. Such filaments include, but are not limited to, rubber filaments, spandex, bicomponent filaments and elastomers.

  “Spandex” means a manufactured filament in which the filament forming material is a long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight segmented polyurethane.

  “Elastomer” means a manufactured filament in which the fiber-forming material is a long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 50% by weight aliphatic polyether and at least 35% by weight polyester. “Bicomponent filament” includes at least two types of polymers joined together along the length of the filament, for example, a different general class of polymers: an elastomeric polyetheramide core and a polyamide sheath with lobes or wings. It means continuous filament.

  “Bleeding” is the term used in fabrics to describe the visible exposure of bare elastomeric filaments. A blindness can cause unwanted glare. When it is necessary to make a selection, it is more preferable that the front side has a low degree of opening than the lower side.

  The twill fabric of the present invention includes a non-elastomeric end and a bare elastomeric end. The pick can be elastomeric or non-elastomeric. The ends and picks can be of one or more types of elastomeric and non-elastomeric yarns and filaments. The ratio of non-elastomeric to elastomeric end is generally at least about 2: 1, usually about 6: 1 or less, preferably at least about 3: 1, about 4: 1 or less. If the ratio is too low, the elastomeric ends are overexposed on the fabric surface, making it undesirable for visual, tactile and aesthetic purposes. If the ratio is too high, the stretch / recovery properties of the fabric are lowered, which is undesirable.

  The elastomer end floats on the front side of the woven fabric for 3 picks or less, preferably 2 picks or less. The elastomeric end also preferably floats over the pick on the back side with 3 picks or less, more preferably 2 picks or less. If the elastomeric end float is too long, the fabric will have a non-uniform surface and may be unacceptable for blinding. The bare elastomeric end need not be twisted. In order to reduce snugging, each pick is preferably floated up to 5 ends on the front side.

  “Elastomeric end exposure count” is the number of non-elastomeric ends proximate to each elastomeric end on the opposite side of the pick yarn or continuous filament at a given pick as compared to the elastomeric end. The count is possible for the front or back of the fabric, depending on whether the elastomeric end is in front of or behind the pick, and is an integer of zero, one or two. By observing the surface of the fabric, the surface exposure count of the elastomer end can be performed. The same applies to the back. For example, in the lift scheme shown in FIG. 1, four non-elastomeric ends are shown in a 2/2 twill pattern woven into one bare elastomeric yarn end. “H” indicates a non-elastomeric (“hard”) end and “E” indicates a bare elastomeric end. “EC” is an abbreviation of exposure count, “F” is the front side, and “B” is the back side. Solid squares in the drawing indicate non-elastomeric ends passing over the pick, hollow squares indicate non-elastomeric ends passing under the pick, “X” indicates bare elastomeric ends passing over the pick, and “ "O" indicates a bare elastomeric end that passes under the pick. The number indicates the exposure count of the elastomeric end for each pick. In the first pick of the pattern repeat, the bare elastomeric end is on the front side of the fabric and one adjacent non-elastomeric end is on the backside of the fabric, so the surface exposure count of the elastomeric end for that pick is 1. In the second pick, the back elastomeric count is 2 because the bare elastomeric end is on the back side and both adjacent non-elastomeric ends are in front. In the third pick, the bare elastomer end is on the front and one adjacent non-elastomeric end is on the back, so the front end count of the elastomer end for that pick is 1. In the fourth and last pick of the pattern repeat, the back end exposure count of the elastomeric end is zero because the elastomeric end is back, like both adjacent non-elastomeric ends.

  The surface exposure count 2 of the elastomeric end of the woven fabric of the present invention is rarely more than once every 10 picks. The surface exposure count of the fabric is 1 or less in the pattern repetition, more preferably the surface exposure count is zero in the pattern repetition. When the elastomeric end is the front side, at least one adjacent non-elastomeric end floats over at least two picks on the front side. When the surface exposure count is 2 at a frequency exceeding 1 per 10 picks, the bare elastomer filaments on the front surface are unacceptably high. This is especially true when the elastomeric end floats over 2 or 3 picks. Furthermore, the back exposure count of the elastomeric end of the fabric is preferably 1 or less.

  In the drawing, a weaving lift plan is illustrated. Each shows a single pattern repetition. FIG. 1 has already been described. The characteristics of the fabrics produced using the plans of FIGS. 2, 3, 4 and 5 which are lift plans for 2/2 twill with variously woven elastomer ends are in the following examples. The characteristics of the woven fabric produced using the plans of FIGS. 6, 6A, 7, 8 and 9 which are lift plans for 3/1 twill (1/3 twill in the case of FIG. 9) in which the elastomer ends are woven in various ways. In the following examples. FIG. 10 is a lift plan for 1/2/2/3 twill and is described in Example 9. Figures 11, 12, 13 and 14 are comparative proposals for plain and transverse rib fabrics where the elastomeric ends are woven, and the characteristics of the fabrics made according to these lift proposals are also described in the examples.

  FIG. 15 is a 1/2 twill lift plan of the present invention in which the three bare elastomeric ends in the repeat are not offset from each other. Each of the three bare elastomeric ends in the iterations labeled “E1”, “E2” and “E3” has a different exposure count pattern. “F1” is the front exposure count of the elastomer end, “B1” is the back exposure count of the elastomer end for the first elastomer end “E1”, and so on. The ratio of non-elastomeric to elastomeric end is 2: 1, the maximum elastomeric end surface exposure count is 1, the elastomeric end floats over a maximum of two picks on the front side and one pick on the reverse side, and the maximum pick The float is 4.

  FIG. 16 is a modified 3/1 twill lift plan of the present invention in which the lift of the bare elastomeric end is offset in the iterations. The exposure count for all bare elastomeric ends is zero for this fabric, the ratio of non-elastomeric to bare elastomeric ends is 4: 1, the elastomeric ends float above a maximum of 3 picks, and the maximum pick float is 5.

  FIG. 17 is a 2/2 herringbone twill lift plan of the present invention with a 4: 1 ratio of non-elastomeric to bare elastomeric ends. A surface exposure count of 2 for the elastomeric end occurs only once every 12 picks, and the elastomeric end floats up to 2 picks.

  FIG. 18 is a 2/1 twill lift plan of the present invention with a 5: 1 ratio of non-elastomeric to bare elastomeric ends. The maximum elastomeric end surface exposure count is zero, the elastomeric end "floats" over one pick on the front side, and the maximum pick float is 5.

  FIG. 19 is a 2/2 twill lift plan of the present invention with a 4: 1 ratio of non-elastomeric to bare elastomeric ends. The maximum elastomeric end surface exposure count is 1, the elastomeric end “floats” over one pick on the front side, the maximum pick float is 3, and when the elastomeric end is on the front side, at least one adjacent non- The elastomeric end floats over 2 picks.

  FIG. 20 is a 2/2 taper lift plan of the present invention with a non-elastomer to bare elastomer end ratio of 3: 1. The maximum elastomeric end surface exposure count is 1, the elastomeric end floats up to 2 picks, the maximum picked table float is 3, and when the elastomeric end is on the front side, at least one adjacent non-elastomeric end Floats over 2 picks.

  The fabric of the present invention preferably has a warp stretch of at least about 15% and less than about 50% when finished. Fabrics having a warp stretch of less than about 15% may be improperly stretched and recovered, and fabrics having a warp stretch of greater than about 50% may have low recovery when stretched or washed. The stretch of the fabric can be adjusted, for example, by changing structural details such as pick density and / or dyeing, and finishing conditions such as heat setting.

  The woven fabric of the present invention can be unidirectional (longitudinal) stretch or bi-directional (longitudinal and lateral) stretch. In bi-directional stretch fabrics, the transverse stretch is also preferably at least about 15%. The fabric can be about 1 to 10 wt% elastomeric ends, typically about 1.5 to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the fabric.

  It was surprising to find that the non-elastomeric end adjacent to the elastomeric end need not be woven opposite the elastomeric end to prevent the elastomeric end from slipping. However, if necessary, various arbitrary means can be employed to control this offset. Such means include increasing one such "opposite" weave of the non-elastomeric end adjacent to the elastomeric end, weaving the elastomeric end 1/1 against the pick, low elastomeric filaments before cutting into garment-sized pieces Using denier to heat set the fabric at any point in the process and reduce elastomer end draft during weaving (does not reduce the weaving process or reduce the final fabric stretch too much). It is done. The use of such means can also improve the flatness of the fabric. This is especially true when the elastomeric end floats on 2 or 3 picks.

  The nature of the non-elastomeric end or pick is not particularly limited and is poly (hexamethylene adipamide) fiber, polycaprolactam fiber, poly (ethylene terephthalate) fiber, poly (trimethylene terephthalate) fiber, cotton, wool, hemp Rayon, acetate, lyocell, etc. can be used either vertically or horizontally, or both.

  Where it is desirable to heat set the fabric, and when using non-elastomeric fibers that can withstand relatively high heat setting temperatures, for example, poly (hexamethylene adipamide) fibers, such as Lycra® ) Conventional spandex such as T-162C or T-902C can be used. For example, spandex with high heat-set efficiency as disclosed in US Patent Publication (Patent Document 7) and US Patent Publication (Patent Document 8) and US Patent Application (Patent Document 9) can also be used. Especially when using non-elastomeric fibers such as polycaprolactam, cotton or wool, 1) attach spandex to a 10-cm frame, 2) stretch spandex 1.5 times, 3) spandex from 175 ° C. Place in an oven preheated to 190 ° C. for 120 seconds, 4) relax the spandex, cool the frame to room temperature, 5) immerse the frame and spandex in a boiling aqueous solution containing a non-ionic detergent for 60 minutes, 6) the frame and Spandex is placed in boiling water at pH 5 for 30 minutes, 7) The spandex is dried at room temperature, 8) The spandex length is measured, 9) The spandex is about It preferably has a heat setting efficiency of ≧ 80% at 175 ° to 190 ° C.

  The linear density is preferably about 40-260 denier (44-289 dtex), more preferably 70-180 denier (77-200 dtex), so that the elastomeric filament can withstand the high friction environment of the loom shed.

  A number of measures can be taken to reduce the frequency of breakage of the bare elastomeric end. This is especially true when weaving elastomers of high friction staple yarns such as cotton and wool. For example, it is preferred that the elastomeric ends be stretched on the first shaft so that they do not move up / down as much as possible, with as many elastomeric ends as possible next to the loom lead wires at each dent. When cotton is used to make the fabric of the present invention, it is advantageous to reduce the level of fluff that settles into the bare elastomeric filament. For example, a vacuum manifold can be used below and above the warp sheet, over the width of the end and shed.

  The path of the bare elastomer end from the loom's guide roller bar to the hammering position is substantially horizontal and does not require a change of direction, and the elastomer end uses a braking device that is generally controlled by the loom take-up. It is also preferred to feed the loom at a substantially constant draft and speed. The delivery means used to feed the elastomer warp from the beam is “negative” (uses a brake to control the speed at which the thread sheet is pulled to the loom by fabric take-up) or “positive” (US Pat. ) Using a motor driven beam rotation at a constant speed to control the sled sheet. Tension is applied to the elastomeric weft thread sheet between the beam and the loom and the elastomeric fibers are stretched 10% to 60% of the elongation at break, for example 1.5 to 6 times. For example, a 140 denier T162C Lycra® spandex is 1.5 times, 2.0 times and 2 times when subjected to tensions of 4 grams / end, 7 grams / end and 12 grams / end, respectively. Can be stretched 5 times.

  In order to measure the elongation of the fabrics of the examples, a sample 60 cm long and 6.5 cm wide was cut from the cell wedge at least 10 cm. Three samples were cut for each direction to be tested (warp and / or weft) and the samples were selected from different parts of the fabric to minimize the possibility that the two samples contained the same yarn. The long direction corresponded to the stretching direction to be tested. Each sample was unwound to a width of 5 cm and approximately the same number of yarns were removed on each side. One end of each sample was folded back to form a loop, a seam was sewn so as to exceed the width of the sample, the loop was fixed, and a 0.65 cm cutout was made in the loop. The mark “A” was written at 6.5 cm from the end of the fabric without the loop, and the mark “B” was written 50 cm from the mark “A” (toward the loop). Each sample was conditioned for at least 16 hours at 20 ° C. and 65% relative humidity and suspended vertically by a clamp at mark “A”. The location of the mark “B” was noted, a metal pin was passed through the loop, and a 30 N (6.75 pound) weight was hooked from the loop notch and placed on the metal pin. Addition and removal of weight to each sample was performed three times. The weight was suspended four times on the pin, the distance between the marks “A” and “B” was recorded and recorded in the nearest millimeter, and the percent elongation of the fabric was calculated from the following equation.

In the formula, L _w is the length between marks with weights, and L _o is the lower length between marks. Average elongation was calculated and recorded for three samples.

  The example fabrics were visually inspected with a magnifying glass with a light and a semi-quantitative eye rating was assigned as follows. “0” (spandex is not visible), “1” (spandex is occasionally visible), “2” (spandex is visible), “3” (spandex is frequently seen), “4” (spandex is frequently seen) or “5” (spandex looks almost continuous).

  Unless otherwise noted, a Ruti L-5000 air jet loom was used in the examples. One beam was made with 150 denier / 50 textured filament poly (ethylene terephthalate) fibers (from Unifi) with 88 ends / inch for a total of 5544 ends. Three beams of 21 inch (53 cm) length of 140 denier (162 dtex) type 162C Lycra® spandex were superimposed at 22 ends / inch and 462 ends per beam (total 1386 ends). The ratio of non-elastomeric end to elastomer end was 4: 1. Unless otherwise noted, 7 g / end tension was applied to the spandex end. A full-width comb is used for spandex delivery to prevent entanglement between the ends and immediately before entering the shed, a cylindrical steel bar (optionally sprayed with silicone lubricant) is placed on the loom between the non-elastomeric yarn and the spandex thread sheet. did. The spandex was stretched into the first harness. Each repeating pattern corresponded to one dent. The weft was woven at 478 picks / minute.

  Each green fabric of the examples was finished by first passing it through hot water at 160 ° F., 180 ° F. and 202 ° F. (71 ° C., 82 ° C. and 94 ° C., respectively) at low tension. Fabrics containing only synthetic fibers are blanched and 6 wt% Synthazime® (Dowley Chemicals LLC starch hydrolase), 1 wt% Lubit® 64 And 0.5 wt% Merpol® LFH (surfactant, registered trademark of EI du Pont de Nemours and Company) at 160 ° F. 71 ° C) for 30 minutes, followed by addition of 0.5 wt% trisodium phosphate and 1 wt% Lubit® 64 and 1 wt% Merpol® LFH. Wash at 110 ° F (43 ° C) for 5 minutes until green, tan Alternatively, it was jet-dried at 230 ° F. (110 ° C.) for 30 minutes at pH 5.2 with a gray disperse dye, and heat-set at 380 ° F. (193 ° C.) for 40 seconds with a tenter frame while underfeeding in the warp direction. (Weight percent is based on fabric weight.)

  Fabrics containing cotton were pre-washed with 3 wt% Lubit® 64 at 120 ° F. (49 ° C.) for 10 minutes, 6 wt% Synthazime® and 2 wt% Merpol ( Boil with Merpol® LFH for 30 minutes at 160 ° F. (71 ° C.), 3 wt% Lubit® 64, 0.5 wt% Merpol® LFH and 0 Wash with 5 wt% trisodium phosphate for 30 minutes at 180 ° F. (82 ° C.), with 3 wt% Lubit® 64, 15 wt% 35% hydrogen peroxide and 3 wt% sodium silicate. Bleach at 180 ° F. (82 ° C.) for 60 minutes at pH 9.5 and 200 ° F. (93 ° C.) with a tan, black or green disperse dye. ) For 30 minutes, applied with sufficient tension to keep it straight without underfeeding, and heat-set with a tenter frame at 380 ° F. (193 ° C.) for 35 seconds.

  In order to more easily determine the eye opening, the spandex of the selected sample was further dyed red with an acid dye to enhance the spandex.

  No slippage was observed for any of the samples prepared in the examples. In the table, “ratio” is a comparative example.

Example 1
Registration of the 140 denier (156 dtex) type 162C Lycra® spandex (EI du Pont de Nemours and Company) according to the lift plan of FIG. 2/2 twill warp stretch fabrics were made from a beam of 150 denier (167 dtex) textured poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn manufactured by Unifi Inc. The weft was a 140 denier (156 dtex), 136 filament air jet textured poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn from Unifi. In the finished fabric (dyed gray), the warp density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 99 ends / in (39 ends / cm) and the warp density of spandex is 25 ends / in (10 ends / cm). ) (Total warp density is 124 ends / in (49 ends / cm), poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn weft density is 105 picks / in (41 picks / cm), weighing is 6.9 oz / yd ² (235 g / m) ² ) and warp elongation was 78% Table I summarizes the results.

(Example 2)
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, the lift plan in FIG. 2 was followed. In the finished fabric (dyed gray), the warp density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 99 ends / in (39 ends / cm) and the warp density of spandex is 25 ends / in (10 ends / cm). (The total warp density is 124 ends / in (49 ends / cm), the weft density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 97 picks / in (38 picks / cm), and the weighing is 6.3 oz / yd ² (214 g / m ² ) and warp elongation was 66% Table I summarizes the results.

(Example 3)
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, the lift plan in FIG. 3 was followed. In the finished fabric (dyed in gray), the warp density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 97 ends / in (38 ends / cm) and the warp density of spandex is 24 ends / in (9 ends / cm). ) (Total warp density is 121 ends / in (47 ends / cm), poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn weft density is 96 picks / in (38 picks / cm), and weighing is 6.4 oz / yd ² (216 g / m ² ) and warp elongation was 65%, the results are summarized in Table I.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, the lift plan in FIG. 4 was followed. In the finished fabric (dyed in gray), the warp density of the poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 101 ends / in (40 ends / cm) and the warp density of the spandex is 24 ends / in (9 ends / cm). ) (Total warp density is 125 ends / in (49 ends / cm), poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn weft density is 102 picks / in (40 picks / cm), weighing is 6.38 oz / yd ² (216 g / m ² ) and warp elongation was 65%, the results are summarized in Table I.

(Comparative Example 2)
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, the lift plan in FIG. 5 was followed. In the finished fabric (dyed in gray), the warp density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 97 ends / in (38 ends / cm) and the warp density of spandex is 24 ends / in (9 ends / cm). ) (Total warp density is 121 ends / in (47 ends / cm), poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarns weft density is 104 picks / in (41 picks / cm), and weighing is 6.9 oz / yd ² (234 g / m) ² ) and warp elongation was 75% Table I summarizes the results.

  According to the ratings in Table 1, it can be seen that the fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are not allowed and are inferior in eyes compared to the fabrics of the present invention of Examples 1, 2 and 3. In the fabric of the present invention, the maximum elastomer surface exposure count was 1, and the non-elastomer adjacent to the end face float was 2, whereas in the comparative example, the surface exposure count was 2 every 4 picks, The elastomer end face float was zero.

(Example 4)
A 3/1 twill warp stretch fabric was made from the same warp used in Example 1 except that the weft was the same as the poly (ethylene terephthalate) warp according to the lift plan of FIG. Tension (12 g / end) was applied to spandex and drafted about 2.5 times. In the finished fabric, the warp density of the poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 122 ends / in (48 ends / cm) and the warp density of the spandex yarn is 30 ends / in (12 ends / cm) (total warp density is 152 End / in (60 ends / cm), poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarns had a weft density of 100 picks / in (39 picks / cm), a tan finished 6.0 oz / yd ² (202 g / m ^2). ) The warp elongation of the fabric was 28%, and the other results are summarized in Table II.

(Example 5)
The lift plan in FIG. 6 was followed again. 180 denier (200 dtex) type 902 Lycra® spandex elastomer warp, 16 cc cotton non-elastomeric warp, and 70 denier type 162C lycra core twisted with 20 cc cotton with twist multiplier 4 (Lycra) (R) spandex weft was used. Black finish 13.7 oz / yd ² (464 g / m ² ) The cotton yarn warp density of the fabric is 127 ends / in (50 ends / cm), for a total of 159 warp ends / in (63 ends / cm), the spandex warp density is 32 End / in (13 ends / cm), weft density was 62 picks / in (24 picks / cm), warp elongation was 21%, and weft elongation was 19%. Table II summarizes other results.

(Example 6)
140 denier (156 dtex) type 162C Lycra (R) spandex and 150 denier (167 dtex) textured poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn and 20 cc cotton weft as elastomer and non-elastomeric warp yarns respectively from Unifi The lift plan of FIG. 6 was followed. Green finish 8.6 oz / yd ² (292 g / m ² ) fabric poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn warp density is 122 end / in (48 end / cm), spandex warp density is 30 end / in (12 end / cm) (Total 152 warp ends / in (60 ends / cm)), the weft density was 93 picks / in (37 picks / cm), and the warp elongation was 38%. Table II summarizes other results.

(Example 6A)
Example 6 was repeated except that the lift scheme was slightly modified as shown in FIG. 6A and the bare elastomer back exposure count was reduced by dropping one lift in the third repeat pick. In the finished fabric (dyed gray), the warp density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 99 ends / in (39 ends / cm) and the warp density of spandex is 25 ends / in (10 ends / cm). (The total warp density is 142 ends / in (49 ends / cm), the weft density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 99 picks / in (39 picks / cm), and the weighing is 6.4 oz / yd ² (218 g / m). ² ) and warp elongation was 69% and the results are shown in Table II.

(Example 7)
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, a 3/1 twill was created according to the lift plan of FIG. In the finished fabric (dyed in gray), the warp density of the poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 100 ends / in (39 ends / cm) and the warp density of the spandex is 25 ends / in (10 ends / cm). ) (Total warp density is 125 ends / in (41 ends / cm), poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn weft density is 104 picks / in (49 picks / cm), weighing is 6.9 oz / yd ² (216 g / m ² ) and warp elongation was 69%, the results are summarized in Table II.

(Example 8)
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, a 3/1 twill was prepared according to the lift plan of FIG. In the finished fabric (dyed in gray), the warp density of the poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 100 ends / in (39 ends / cm) and the warp density of the spandex is 25 ends / in (10 ends / cm). ) (Total warp density is 125 ends / in (49 ends / cm), poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn weft density is 108 picks / in (43 picks / cm), weighing is 6.9 oz / yd ² (235 g / m ² ) and warp elongation was 73%, Table II summarizes other results.

(Comparative Example 3)
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, a 1/3 twill was created according to the lift plan of FIG. In the finished fabric (dyed in gray), the warp density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 94 ends / in (37 ends / cm) and the warp density of spandex is 24 ends / in (9 ends / cm). (The total warp density is 118 ends / in (46 ends / cm), the weft density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 103 picks / in (41 picks / cm), and the weighing is 6.6 oz / yd ² (225 g / m). ² ) and the warp elongation was 75% The fabric had a lot of ribs on the front side and excessive puncture on the back side, Table II summarizes the other results.

  According to the data in Table II, all of the fabrics of the present invention had little or no eye opening. In Example 6A, the number of non-elastomeric end floats close to one of the spandex lifts is reduced to one and the eye rating is acceptable, but is also reduced, so that at least one non-elastomeric end close to the front side spandex is present. It has been shown that priority is given to floating over at least two picks. According to the fabric of Example 7, it can be seen that the spandex float 3 has low eye opening and no end of the elastomer end.

Example 9
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, a 1/2/2/3 twill was created according to the lift plan of FIG. In the finished fabric (dyed in gray), the warp density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 98 ends / in (39 ends / cm) and the warp density of spandex is 24 ends / in (9 ends / cm). ) (Total warp density is 122 ends / in (48 ends / cm), poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn weft density is 100 picks / in (39 picks / cm), and weighing is 6.3 oz / yd ² (214 g / m ² ) and warp elongation was 64%, the lowest non-elastomeric adjacent to the end float was 2, the maximum exposure count on the front and back sides and the maximum spandex end float were all 1, and the maximum weft float on the front side was 4 The back side was 2, the front side peel rating was 0, and the back side peel rating was 3. According to the front side of the fabric, it can be seen that the twill structure can be modified without detracting from the advantages of the present invention.

(Comparative Example 4)
A 1/1 plain woven fabric was prepared according to the lift plan of FIG. Elastomeric warp and non-elastomeric warp were woven into “pairs”. The warp was the same as in Example 1. The weft was 140 denier (156 dtex), 100 filament type 935T poly (ethylene terephthalate) manufactured by Unifi. The finished green 6.3 oz / yd ² (214 g / m ² ) fabric has a total warp density of 125 ends / in (49 ends / cm) and a weft density of 99 picks / in (39 picks / cm). Yes, the warp elongation was 48%. Other details and results are shown in Table III.

(Comparative Example 5)
Comparative Example 3 was repeated except that a 2/2 weft rib fabric was prepared according to the lift plan of FIG. The finished green 6.1 oz / yd ² (207 g / m ² ) fabric has a total warp density of 135 ends / in (53 ends / cm) and a weft density of 97 picks / in (38 picks / cm). Yes, the warp elongation was 52%. See Table III for further details and results.

(Comparative Example 6)
Except for creating a 2/3 weft rib fabric (sometimes called "Oxford", here a 1/1 plain fabric of 2 and 3 end weaving), according to the lift plan of FIG. Comparative Example 3 was repeated. The finished green 7.1 oz / yd ² (241 g / m ² ) fabric has a total warp density of 144 ends / in (57 ends / cm) and a weft density of 99 picks / in (39 picks / cm). Yes, the warp elongation was 53%. The results are summarized in Table III.

(Comparative Example 7)
Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, a combination of 1/1 flat woven fabric and 2/1 weft rib woven fabric was made according to the lift plan of FIG. In the finished fabric (dyed in gray), the warp density of the poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 102 ends / in (42 ends / cm), and the warp density of the spandex is 25 ends / in (10 ends / cm). (The total warp density is 127 ends / in (52 ends / cm), the weft density of poly (ethylene terephthalate) yarn is 85 picks / in (34 picks / cm), and the weighing is 5.8 oz / yd ² (196 g / m). ² ) and warp elongation was 43%, the surface of the fabric was ribbed and a plush appearance, other details and results are shown in Table III.

According to the results in Table III, it can be seen that the flat and weft rib structures are not suitable for controlling the opening of the woven fabric made of the bare elastomer end.
The present invention includes the following inventions including those described in the claims.
(1) A warp stretchable twill fabric having a front side and a back side and including a non-elastomeric end and a bare elastomeric end,
The ratio of non-elastomeric end to elastomeric end is at least about 2: 1;
The ratio of non-elastomeric end to elastomeric end is about 6: 1 or less;
The surface exposure count 2 of the elastomer end is less than once per 10 picks,
A warp stretchable twill fabric, wherein the elastomer end floats on the front side for 3 picks or less.
(2) When the elastomer end is on the front side and at least one non-elastomeric end close to the bare elastomer end floats on at least 2 picks on the front side, the pick is 5 ends or less on the front side, up The woven fabric according to (1), wherein
(3) The woven fabric according to (1), wherein the elastomer end floats on the back side by 3 picks or less.
(4) at least about 15% lateral expansion and contraction;
The fabric according to (2), having a lateral shrinkage of about 50% or less.
(5) The surface exposure count of the elastomer end is 1 or less in pattern repetition,
The fabric has about 15% warp stretchability;
The woven fabric according to (2), wherein the woven fabric has warp stretchability of less than about 50%.
(6) the elastomeric end is present to a range of at least about 1 percent of the total fabric weight;
The elastomeric end is present in a range up to about 10 percent of the total fabric weight;
The woven fabric according to (2), wherein the elastomeric end is spandex.
(7) a) a non-elastomeric end and b) at least one of the picks is selected from the group consisting of cotton and wool,
The fabric is selected from the group consisting of 2/1, 3/1 and 2/2 twill;
The woven fabric according to (2), wherein the elastomeric end is spandex.
(8) The fabric according to (6), wherein the spandex has a heat setting efficiency of ≧ 80% at about 175 ° to 190 ° C.
(9) the ratio of non-elastomeric end to bare elastomeric end is at least about 3: 1;
The woven fabric according to (1), wherein the ratio of non-elastomeric end to elastomeric end is about 4: 1 or less.
(10) the elastomeric end is present to a range of at least about 1.5 percent of the total fabric weight;
The fabric according to (1), wherein the elastomeric end is present up to a range of about 5 percent or less of the total fabric weight.

The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of a comparative example is shown. The weaving lift plan of a comparative example is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of a comparative example is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of a comparative example is shown. The weaving lift plan of a comparative example is shown. The weaving lift plan of a comparative example is shown. The weaving lift plan of a comparative example is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown. The weaving lift plan of the fabric of the present invention is shown.

Claims (1)

A warp stretchable twill fabric having a front side and a back side and comprising a non-elastomeric end and a bare elastomeric end,
The ratio of non-elastomeric end to elastomeric end is at least 2: 1;
The ratio of non-elastomeric end to elastomeric end is 6: 1 or less;
The surface exposure count 2 of the elastomer end is less than once per 10 picks, the elastomer end floats 3 picks or less on the front side ,
The elastomeric end warp stretch twill that back exposure count is characterized der Rukoto 1 below.

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