JP4150444B2

JP4150444B2 - Outer shoulder structure

Info

Publication number: JP4150444B2
Application number: JP18180398A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 祥文中嶋
Original assignee: オゴー産業株式会社
Priority date: 1998-06-29
Filing date: 1998-06-29
Publication date: 2008-09-17
Anticipated expiration: 2018-06-29
Also published as: JP2000017510A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、ブレザーや背広等、上着の肩から袖にかけての上着の肩口構造に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
背広等の肩から袖にかけての形状を見栄えよくする手段として、一般には肩パッドを装着する例が多い。しかし、この肩パッドが肩崩れを起こしては意味がないので、更に肩パッドに保形性を高める手段を講じる。従来は、肩パッド内に弾性樹脂片や形状記憶合金製針金等の芯材を収納し、肩パッド自身に保形力を付加することで、全体としての肩口構造の保形性を確保していた(例えば特開平8-325815号、特開平9-273012号、特開平10-60717号等)。
【０００３】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
肩パッドは、肩口又は袖の布地に全体を縫着する場合もあるが、多くは肩口に沿った一側縁を縫着するだけで、実質的には上着と別部材である。このため、上着と肩パッドとは個別に動いてしまう。こうした肩パッドに芯材を収納して保形力を付加すると、この芯材端部による出っ張りができてしまい、かえって肩口構造を歪めることがあり、上着の見栄えを悪くしていた。
【０００４】
特に、近年の夏用上着では肩口の布地が薄くなってしまい、芯材端部により肩口構造を歪める傾向が強く、肩パッドを用いることの意義が裏目に出ていた。そこで、背広等の上着における肩口構造の保形性を高めつつ、芯材入りの肩パッドに見られた張出を解消するため、新たな肩口構造について検討した。
【０００５】
【課題を解決するための手段】
検討の結果開発したものが、背広等の肩から袖にかけての保形性を高める肩口構造であって、肩口の垂綿内に該肩口の湾曲に略相似な円弧状弾性片を収納し、円弧状弾性片の一端のみを垂綿に止着してなる上着の肩口構造である。この肩口構造を持つ上着に、別途芯材を持たない肩パッドを併用してもよい。
【０００６】
本発明の肩口構造は、補強のために肩口に縫着する垂綿内に収納した円弧状弾性片により保形力を発揮する。この円弧状弾性片は、一端のみを垂綿に止着し、もう一端は自由にしているので、肩口の動きに弾性片の変形が追随できない場合でも、垂綿に対する相対的な位置をずらすことで、出っ張ることがない。
【０００７】
弾性片の素材に限定はないが、金属繊維又はテグスからなる糸条を織成して得られた組み紐を複数条並べて一体にした略扁平な帯体であるものが好ましい。金属繊維を素材とする弾性片は、垂綿内に縫着したボタン、ホック等に固着又は係止して一端を止着する。また、テグスからなる弾性片では、直接一端を垂綿に対して縫着すればよい。テグスは、人造繊維からなるもの、とりわけカーボンテグスが好ましい。
【０００８】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明の実施形態について図を参照しながら説明する。図１は本発明の肩口構造を右肩について表した斜視図、図２は同肩口構造に用いた円弧状弾性片１の斜視図、図３は袖２を降ろした状態を表した上着３の側面図であり、図４は図３の状態から袖２を前に上げた状態を表した上着３の側面図である。各図中、便宜上肩パッド４及び垂綿５の上着３に対する縫着は略している。
【０００９】
本発明の肩口構造は、図１に見られるように、肩口に縫着する垂綿５内に円弧状弾性片１を収納したもので、本例では背側(図１中左側)の端部６を垂綿５に対して縫着により止着している。円弧状弾性片１は、両端のうち一方のみを垂綿５に止着すればよいが、通常上着等では後身が引っ張られることが多いことから、本例のように背側の端部６を垂綿５に縫着する方が好ましい。
【００１０】
円弧状弾性片１は、合成繊維からなるテグス(テトロン糸をパイピングしたもの)を織成して得られた組み紐７,７,７を３条横並びに並べ、３条一体にしたテグスを捲回して形成した略扁平な帯体である。このテグスからなる円弧状弾性片１は、柔軟かつ適度な弾性を有し、本発明のように上着３の保形性を高める部材には適している。また、弾性があまり強くないので、止着していない端部８が生地を跳ね上げる虞がない利点がある。
【００１１】
こうした円弧状弾性片１を垂綿５に収納した肩口構造では、円弧状弾性片１の弾性により、図３に見られるように肩口に保形性が付加される。例えば背広などでは、肩パッド４により見栄えのよい肩口が形成され、この形状を円弧状弾性片１が保持するのである。腕を回すなど、図４に見られるように袖２が動いて後身が下向きに引っ張られると、肩パッド４はほとんど動かないが、垂綿５は下方へと引っ張られる。円弧状弾性片１は、この垂綿５に一端６を止着し、他端８は解放しているので、前記垂綿５の引っ張りに応じて垂綿５内を動くことができる。こうして、円弧状弾性片１は肩口の動きに追随して動き、端部６,８を出っ張らせることがなく、常に適切な保形力を発揮するのである。
【００１２】
【発明の効果】
本発明により、肩口の動きに追随し、端部を出っ張らせることなく良好な保形力を発揮できるか肩口構造を提供できるようになる。円弧状弾性片は垂綿と共に肩口の動きに追随して動くので、袖を動かした際にも保形力が発揮される。金属繊維又はテグスからなる糸条を織成して得られた組み紐を複数条並べて一体にした略扁平な帯体である円弧状弾性片は、柔軟かつ適度な弾性を有するため、垂綿に収納しながら適当な保形力を発揮できるのである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明の肩口構造を右肩について表した斜視図である。
【図２】同肩口構造に用いた円弧状弾性片の斜視図である。
【図３】袖を降ろした状態を表した上着の側面図である。
【図４】図３の状態から袖を前に上げた状態を表した上着の側面図である。
【符号の説明】
１円弧状弾性片
２袖
３上着
４肩パッド
５垂綿
６背側の端部（止着した端部）
７組み紐
８止着していない端部[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a shoulder mouth structure of an outer jacket from a shoulder to a sleeve, such as a blazer and a suit.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In general, there are many cases in which a shoulder pad is attached as a means of improving the shape of the shoulder and sleeve from the shoulder. However, it is meaningless if the shoulder pad collapses, so measures are taken to further improve the shape retention of the shoulder pad. Conventionally, core materials such as elastic resin pieces and shape memory alloy wires are housed in the shoulder pad, and shape retaining force is applied to the shoulder pad itself, thereby ensuring the shape retaining property of the shoulder mouth structure as a whole. (For example, JP-A-8-325815, JP-A-9-273012, JP-A-10-60717, etc.).
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The shoulder pad may be sewn entirely on the shoulder or sleeve fabric, but in many cases, only one side edge along the shoulder is sewn, and the shoulder pad is substantially a separate member from the upper. For this reason, a jacket and a shoulder pad will move separately. When a core material is stored in such a shoulder pad and shape retaining force is applied, a protruding portion is formed by the end portion of the core material, and the shoulder mouth structure may be distorted.
[0004]
In particular, in recent summer jackets, the fabric of the shoulder mouth has become thin, and there is a strong tendency to distort the shoulder mouth structure by the end of the core material, and the significance of using the shoulder pad has been revealed. In order to eliminate the overhang seen in the shoulder pad with core material while improving the shape retention of the shoulder and mouth structure in outerwear and other jackets, a new shoulder and mouth structure was studied.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
What has been developed as a result of the study is a shoulder and mouth structure that enhances shape retention from the shoulder to the sleeve, such as a suit, and stores an arc-shaped elastic piece approximately similar to the curvature of the shoulder mouth within the shoulder cotton, It is a shoulder-and-mouth structure of a jacket formed by fastening only one end of the elastic piece to the cotton wool. You may use together the shoulder pad which does not have a core material in the outerwear with this shoulder-mouth structure.
[0006]
The shoulder / mouth structure of the present invention exerts a shape retaining force by the arc-shaped elastic piece housed in the cotton wool sewn to the shoulder / mouth for reinforcement. Since this arc-shaped elastic piece is fastened only to one end, and the other end is free, even if the elastic piece cannot follow the movement of the shoulder, the relative position with respect to the end cotton is shifted. And there is no protrusion.
[0007]
There is no limitation on the material of the elastic piece, but a material that is a substantially flat band body in which a plurality of braids obtained by weaving yarns made of metal fibers or tesgs are arranged and integrated is preferable. An elastic piece made of a metal fiber is fixed or locked to a button, a hook, or the like sewn in the cotton wool and fastened at one end. Moreover, what is necessary is just to sew one end directly with the cotton wool in the elastic piece which consists of Tegs. Tegs are preferably made of man-made fibers, particularly carbon tegs.
[0008]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing the shoulder structure of the present invention with respect to the right shoulder, FIG. 2 is a perspective view of an arc-shaped elastic piece 1 used for the shoulder structure, and FIG. 3 is a jacket 3 showing a state where the sleeve 2 is lowered. FIG. 4 is a side view of the outer garment 3 showing a state in which the sleeve 2 is raised forward from the state of FIG. In each figure, the sewing with respect to the upper pad 3 of the shoulder pad 4 and the sagging cotton 5 is abbreviate | omitted for convenience.
[0009]
As shown in FIG. 1, the shoulder / mouth structure of the present invention is one in which an arc-shaped elastic piece 1 is accommodated in a cotton wool 5 sewn on the shoulder / mouth, and in this example, the end on the back side (left side in FIG. 1). 6 is fastened to the cotton wool 5 by sewing. The arc-shaped elastic piece 1 only needs to be fastened to the cotton wool 5 at both ends, but usually the back is often pulled by a jacket or the like. It is preferable to sew 6 to the cotton wool 5.
[0010]
The arc-shaped elastic piece 1 is formed by winding three pairs of braids 7, 7, and 7 obtained by weaving synthetic fiber tegus (piping tetron yarn) side by side. It is a substantially flat strip. The arc-shaped elastic piece 1 made of Teggs is flexible and has moderate elasticity, and is suitable for a member that improves the shape retention of the outerwear 3 as in the present invention. Further, since the elasticity is not so strong, there is an advantage that there is no possibility that the end portion 8 which is not fastened jumps up the fabric.
[0011]
In the shoulder-and-mouth structure in which the arc-shaped elastic piece 1 is accommodated in the cotton wool 5, the shape-retaining property is added to the shoulder-mouth as shown in FIG. 3 due to the elasticity of the arc-shaped elastic piece 1. For example, in the case of a suitcase or the like, a shoulder opening having a good appearance is formed by the shoulder pad 4, and the arc-shaped elastic piece 1 holds this shape. When the sleeve 2 moves and the rear body is pulled downward as seen in FIG. 4 such as turning an arm, the shoulder pad 4 hardly moves, but the cotton wool 5 is pulled downward. Since the arc-shaped elastic piece 1 has one end 6 fixed to the bottom cotton 5 and the other end 8 is released, the inside of the bottom cotton 5 can be moved according to the pulling of the bottom cotton 5. Thus, the arcuate elastic piece 1 moves following the movement of the shoulder, and does not project the end portions 6 and 8, and always exhibits an appropriate shape retaining force.
[0012]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, it is possible to follow the movement of the shoulder and to provide a good shape retaining force without projecting the end portion or to provide a shoulder and mouth structure. Since the arc-shaped elastic piece moves along with the swab, following the movement of the shoulder, the shape retaining force is exhibited even when the sleeve is moved. The arc-shaped elastic piece, which is a substantially flat strip that is formed by arranging a plurality of braids obtained by weaving yarns made of metal fibers or tegs, is flexible and moderately elastic. Appropriate shape retention can be achieved.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing a shoulder structure of the present invention with respect to a right shoulder.
FIG. 2 is a perspective view of an arc-shaped elastic piece used in the shoulder opening structure.
FIG. 3 is a side view of a jacket showing a state where a sleeve is lowered.
4 is a side view of an outer garment showing a state in which sleeves are raised forward from the state of FIG. 3; FIG.
[Explanation of symbols]
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Arc-shaped elastic piece 2 Sleeve 3 Outer jacket 4 Shoulder pad 5 Tarpaulin 6 Back side edge part (fixed edge part)
7 Braid 8 End not fastened

Claims

A shoulder / shoulder structure that enhances the shape retention from the shoulder to the sleeve of the jacket, and an arc-shaped elastic piece that is substantially similar to the curvature of the shoulder / mouth is accommodated in the shoulder cotton, and only one end of the arc-shaped elastic piece is suspended. Shoulder and mouth structure of a jacket that is fastened to cotton.

2. The shoulder / shoulder structure of an outer garment according to claim 1, wherein the arc-shaped elastic piece is a substantially flat band body in which a plurality of braids obtained by weaving yarns made of metal fibers or tegs are aligned and integrated.