JP4139999B2

JP4139999B2 - Highly stretchable filament knitted fabric with shape memory, manufacturing method thereof, and innerwear

Info

Publication number: JP4139999B2
Application number: JP2003001033A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 良司中村
Original assignee: Toyobo Co Ltd
Current assignee: Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date: 2003-01-07
Filing date: 2003-01-07
Publication date: 2008-08-27
Anticipated expiration: 2023-01-07
Also published as: JP2004211254A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は伸縮性性に優れ、ソフトでフィット性がある快適性に優れた高伸縮性フィラメント編地に関する。さらに詳しくは繰り返しの伸縮に対し、発生する伸び歪みが軽度の熱処理により、原形に回復し、立体成型も可能な高伸縮性フィラメント編地に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
インナーウエアーは肌に密着して、体温を保温する役目と、肌から放出される水分および皮膚の老化物等の排出物を吸収して肌表面を衛生的に保つ役目と中衣の摩擦による肌の損傷を防ぐ役目で着用される。盛夏を余いては、肌に密着し、かつ動作の妨げにまらないことが要求される。吸湿性の観点から綿製品が主に用いられてきたが、生活環境の恒温低湿化やファッションスタイルの変化から薄地で伸縮性に富むフィラメント編物、特に弾性糸を含むフィラメント編物が体型補正の目的にもマッチして婦人インナーウエアーとして多く用いられるようになてきた。
【０００３】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
婦人用はバスト、ヒップとウエストの寸法差異が大きく、ボディーラインにフィットした肌着をうるには編地の伸長率を上げるか、縫製をして成型するしかない。編地の伸長率を上げる手段として、編み密度を粗くする方法があるが、寸法安定性の面で限界がある。また、縫製による立体化はコストに負担が多いことや、特に薄地のボトムを着用する場合、下着のシームラインが地厚になって外部に陰影することが嫌われる。この事から熱セット等で立体成型が可能なことがのぞまれているが、これを満足できる弾性糸がなかった。加えて、インナーウエアーの寿命は部分的な劣化破断と変色による見栄えの劣化及び繰り返し伸長に起因する部分的変形（首廻りや袖口、ひだ部分のだれ）による劣化により決まる。破断は商品寿命としてしかたないとしても、変色や変形は再生できることが好ましい。
【０００４】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者らは、上記課題を解決すべく鋭意検討した結果、該架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性繊維の耐薬品性、耐熱性、ソフト伸長性、熱セット特性に鑑みて、従来のスパンデックス等を含んだフィラメント編地では達成できなかった、薄地でソフトなストレッチ性と立体成型性と熱処理による形態再起性を持つインナーウエアーに好適な高伸縮性フィラメント編地を創出するに至った。
すなわち本発明は、下記の構成からなる。
１．非弾性フィラメント繊維とポリオレフィン系弾性糸から構成されてなる高伸縮性編地であって、前記編地におけるポリオレフィン系弾性糸が配された方向の特性が下記（１）〜（３）を満足することを特徴とする高伸縮性フィラメント編地。
（４）定荷重伸長率が５０％以上。
（５）回復率が５０％以上。
（６）アイロン収縮率が５％以下。
２．編地の表裏表面は非弾性繊維で覆われ、該非弾性繊維がポリエステル系もしくはポリアミド系のフィラメント糸であり、弾性糸の混用率が３０％以下であることを特徴とする上記第１記載の高伸縮性フィラメント編地。
３．ポリオレフィン系弾性糸をドラフトしながら非弾性フィラメント繊維と複合した後、丸編機にて該複合糸単独で編成もしくは他の非弾性フィラメント繊維糸と交編することを特徴とする高伸縮性フィラメント編地の製造方法。
４．ポリオレフィン系弾性糸を後筬に、非弾性フィラメント繊維を最前筬に配して経編機で編成することを特徴とする高伸縮性フィラメント編地の製造方法。
５．上記第１記載の高伸縮性フィラメント編地を少なくとも一部に用いてなることを特徴とするインナーウエアー。
【０００５】
本発明でいうインナーウエアーとは肌着、ブラジャー、ガードル、ショーツ、タイツ等を意味する。
本発明でいうポリオレフィン弾性繊維は均一に分枝を有しており、実質的に線状であるオレフィンをいい、好ましくは耐熱性、等の諸物性を向上せしめる観点から、架橋処理を施されてなる繊維である。
ここで均一に分枝していて実質的に線状であるオレフィン繊維とは、オレフィン系モノマーを重合させた重合物であり、その重合物の分岐度合いが均一であるものを言う。
例えばαオレフィンを共重合させた低密度ポリエチレンや特表平8-509530号公報記載の弾性繊維がこれに当たる。
また架橋処理の方法としては、例えばラジカル開始剤やカップリング剤などを用いた化学架橋や、エネルギー線を照射することによって架橋させる方法等が挙げられる。製品となった後の安定性を考慮するとエネルギー線照射による架橋が好ましいが、本発明はこれらの方法に限定されるものではない。
【０００６】
ポリオレフィン系弾性繊維を用いる理由は次の２つの理由による。１つは、着用を重ねることによる変色を除去するための塩素晒しにも耐えうる耐薬品性を有する弾性糸であること。他の１つは、充分に伸長歪みを除去した状態で、熱セットすると以降の繰り返し伸長により、生ずる残留歪みが後の熱処理により、初期の熱セットした状態に近い状態に戻る形態記憶性（形態再起）の特性をもつためである。また必要により、緊張下で立体模型に装着、熱処理することで、立体成型も可能なこともこの弾性糸の特徴である。
【０００７】
インナーウエアー素材の生命線は伸縮性である。締め付け感がなくかつ、身体の線に沿ってフィトすることが望まれる。特に胸囲や胴囲方向に相当するコース方向の伸縮性が重要であり、このために、ポリオレフィン系弾性糸が配された方向の定荷重伸長率は５０％以上が好ましく、より好ましくは７０％以上である。この伸長率は肌への着圧にも関与し、ソフトな着圧感を付与する意味からも伸長率は高いことが好ましい。方向の伸長率は編地の形態安定性や張り腰にも影響し、適度の形態安定性や張り腰を保つ意味から１００％未満とすることが望まれる。加えて重要なことは、この伸長に対する回復特性であり、伸長回復率は５０％以上、更に好ましくは５５〜７５％が好ましい。５０％を下回ると着用時の伸長歪みが回復せず、たるみとなって着用感を害し、見栄えも良くない。また、御婦人方の隆起に富むボディーラインにも追従しきれない。このような伸縮性、回復性を満足させるためには、弾性糸を複合することが必須である。また収縮率も重要であり、アイロン収縮率は５％以下が必要である。最も好ましくは０％であるが、仕上げ工程で複雑な処理が必要になり、コスト高をまねき、あまり得策ではない。この特性は繰り返し着用する時の形態安定性にも関与するが、後述する形態再起のために、加えられる熱処理時の寸法変化を制限する意味でも重要である。
【０００８】
布帛中のポリオレフィン弾性繊維の混用率は布帛の伸長応力を左右し、多すぎるとパワーが強くなりすぎ、かえって不快感を与える。加えて架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維は高価であり、混用率が高くなると、経済性でも不利となる。また綿繊維と混用することで、水分に関わる快適性能を持つことが目的であり、この事からも混用率は低いことが好ましく、３０％未満とすることが望ましい。より好ましくは２５％未満であるが、前述した伸縮性能を満足するためには、５％以上が望ましい。
【０００９】
さらに、編地の編み組織も重要であり、前述の伸縮性は複合糸の伸長性と編地の組織変形がもたらす生地伸びの複合として生じ、伸びやすく、編地の薄い天竺組織やトリコット、ハーフ組織が適している。しかし、場合により、冬季用等でリブ組織やインターロック組織とすることも可能である。ここではパール編みも広義に天竺に含める。トリコットの場合は最前筬に非弾性糸を使用すれば、弾性糸は編地の中心部に配され、非弾性糸が編地の表裏を覆うため、ベアー糸で使うこともできる。弾性糸が編地の表面に出ると摩擦力が高くなり、肌や上衣との滑りが悪く、着用感を害する。丸編み地の場合はレイイン等の手法を用いるとベアー糸でも用いることができるが、編み機が複雑になることや、裁断をすると素抜けしやすい等の問題があり好ましくなく、カバリングや交絡等で非弾性フィラメント糸と複合して用いることが好ましい。勿論、複合糸１００％でも他のフィラメント糸との交編でも良い。
【００１０】
本発明に用いる非弾性フィラメント繊維として耐久性の観点からポリエステル系フィラメント糸やポリアミド系フィラメント糸およびその加工糸が適しており、なかでも公定水分率が高く、ソフトな触感を示すポリアミドが最適である。また要求によってはそれらの異形断面糸も使用可能である。ポリエステルフィラメント糸の場合は編地の仕上げ加工時にアルカリでの減量加工も差し支えない。加えて、特に吸湿性が要求される場合はレーヨン、キュプラ、アセテート、プロミックス等も単独または混用して用いることができる。またこれらのフィラメント糸に制電剤、抗菌剤、防汚剤等を含むこともなんら支障はない。
【００１１】
本発明の編地の特徴は熱に対する挙動である。この特徴はポリオレフィン弾性糸の特性に起因する。架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性糸は伸長セット性に優れ、２００％伸長以下であれば９０℃以上の乾熱処理、６０℃以上の湿熱処理で形態がほぼ１００％固定され、伸長形態で固定され、再度加熱しない限り形態が保持される。
よって、下着等の繰り返し着用時に加熱しない用途では加熱成型が可能である。充分に加工歪みを除去した編地の幅以上の金型に装着し、蒸気等で加熱することで熱可塑性繊維と同等に形態セットが可能である。このことは編み目構造の固定でもあり、着用中の形態安定化にも効果的で外観品位の向上にも繋がる。しかし、残念なことに再度フリーな状態で熱処理すると、形態はセット前の形態に戻り、タンブラー乾燥等の加熱処理をする使用形態には適さないので取り扱いには注意を要する。
【００１２】
このことは編成前のフィラメント複合糸にも応用可能で、弾性糸をドラフトしてカバリングやエアー交絡で非弾性フィラメント糸と複合した後、伸長状態で巻き取り、この形態で６０℃から９５℃の湿熱でセットすることで、リジッドな非弾性糸状になり、非弾性糸と同等に取り扱い編成可能で、後の精練、染色等のリラックス熱処理で弾性は回復する。
【００１３】
弾性繊維は多かれ少なかれくり返し伸長によりクリープが生じ、永久歪みとして残る。編地の変形は大別して、ループの変形に起因するものと、原糸自体の変形によるものに大別でき、ループの変形による形状変化は洗濯等で編地に揉み作用を与えることで回復するが、原糸の変形に起因するものは回復不可能である。しかし、架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性糸はアイロン等の比較的低温でクリープが回復する。下着の耐容限界と判断される１つの現象として首襟口や袖口の伸び、締りが悪く外観不良となる現象がある。しかし、本発明編地はアイロン掛け等の加熱処理で回復が可能である。この時もとの編地の収縮率が充分に小さくないと、縮み過ぎてもとの寸法より小さくなり、編地のアイロン収縮率を５％以下に限定する理由がここにある。
【００１４】
以下、実施例で詳細な説明をするが、本発明の実施形態を限定するものではない。
本発明の評価は以下の方法で実施した。
［定荷重伸長率及び回復率］
「風合い評価の標準化と解析」（日本繊維機械学会編集）の第IV章「布の力学的特性の測定」に記載の方法にのっとり、測定した。幅２０cm、長さ5cmの試料を布帛の経方向、緯方向に採取し、長さ方向に4.00×10ー3/sec一定で、最大荷重１００gf／cmまで引張り、変形回復過程に移り、最大荷重時の伸長率を求めた。伸長率と変形回復過程の０応力到達時の歪み量の差の伸長率との比率を回復率とし、トリコットの場合は経方向と緯方向の平均値を、丸編みの場合はコース方向の伸長率及び回復率とした。
【００１５】
［布帛のアイロン収縮率］
ＪＩＳＬ１０５７「織物及び編物のアイロン収縮率試験方法」のA法に順じて測定した。なお、アイロンの温度は１２０℃とした。
【００１６】
［架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維の混用率］
使用した架橋型ポリオレフィン繊維の繊度を複合時のポリオレフィン繊維のドラフト比で除し、複合糸の伸長時の繊度との比率に複合糸の混用率をかけて（％）で表示する。トリコットの場合は弾性糸のビーミング時のドラフト比に非弾性糸とのランナー比をかけて（％）で表示する。
【００１７】
【実施例】
（実施例１）
架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性糸４４デシテックスをバック筬に、カチオン常圧可染ポリエステルフィラメント糸５６デシテックス３６フィラメントをフロント筬に用いて２８ゲージのトリコット編み機でハーフ組織の経編地を得た。ちなみに弾性繊維の含有率は２４％であった。常法で精練、プレセット、常温染色、ファイナルセットをして、コース密度；１０２C/in. ウェール密度；６２W/in. 目付；２００g/ m²の仕上げ布を得た。この編地の伸長特性およびアイロン収縮率を表１に示した。この編地を縫製して、ショーツとした。これを耐熱性のボディー体に装着し、蒸気釜で８５℃、１５分処理し、室温で放冷後、取り外すと、ボディー体と同等に立体成型されたショーツが得られた。
【００１８】
（実施例２）
架橋型ポリオレフィン系弾性糸７８デシテックスを３．３倍にドラフトしながら、ナイロン６フィラメント７７デシテックス２４フィラメントと引き揃え２，５００Ｔ／ｍで１段仮撚り加工をし、巻取り前でおおむね６０個／ｍのインターレースを入れて、巻き取った。
該仮撚り複合糸を用いて２８Ｇの丸編み機で天竺組織の編地を得た。常法で精練、染色、セットして、目付が１５０ｇ／ｍ²で弾性糸の含有率が２３％の仕上げ布を得て、タイツを縫製した。この編地の伸長特性、アイロン収縮率を表１に示した。このタイツを着用し、通常の生活して、着用毎に洗濯しながら、延べ１０回の着用を繰り返したところ、ひざ部分に突出した永久歪みは発生した。このタイツを洗濯後、ひざ部分に薄い手ぬぐいをかいして１２０℃のアイロンを掛けたところ、この歪みは解消した。
【００１９】
（実施例３）
架橋型ポリオレフィン弾性糸４４デシテックスを３倍にドラフトしながらポリエステル偏平糸（偏平率＝４．８）４８デシテックス３６フィラメント糸をS方向に１０００T/mでカバリングして複合糸として伸長状態で巻き上げ、８５℃で１５分キヤーセットした。同ポリエステル偏平糸（偏平率＝４．８）４８デシテックス３６フィラメント糸の２ヒーター仮撚加工糸と１本交互に、１６in.径で１９Gのゴム編み機でループ長を５８０mm/100ウエールで編物を得た。この編地の伸長特性とアイロン収縮率を表１に示した。この編地を常法で精練後、筒状のまま身ごろとして用い、別途裁断して作った袖と縫合して婦人用肌着とした。これを耐熱性のある上身ボディーに着挿して形を整えたのち、９５℃の湿熱で１５分処理し、放冷後、着脱したところ、バスト、ウエストがボディーの形に成型された肌着が得られた。肌着の吸水性をバイレック法で評価したが優れた性能を示した。
【００２０】
（比較例１）
架橋型ポリオレフィン系弾性糸をポリウレタン弾性糸（東洋紡エスパタイプ４６５）とすること以外は実施例３と同法で肌着を作成した。この編地の伸長特性、アイロン収縮率を表１に示した。また実施例３と同法で湿熱セットを試みたが形状は固定できなかった。また長期間着用後に発生した永久歪みも熱処理しても回復することはなかった。
【００２１】
【表１】

【００２２】
【発明の効果】
本発明の高伸縮フィラメント編地は熱処理により形状記憶性があり、長期の着用による編地の歪みも回復可能であり、必要に応じて立体成型性もある高伸縮で回復性能にも優れる婦人インナーウエアーに最適な編地である。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a highly stretchable filament knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, soft and fit and excellent in comfort. More specifically, the present invention relates to a highly stretchable filament knitted fabric that is capable of being three-dimensionally molded by recovering its original elongation strain by mild heat treatment against repeated expansion and contraction.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Inner wear is in close contact with the skin and keeps the body temperature, absorbs moisture released from the skin and skin aging, and keeps the skin surface hygienic. It is worn to prevent damage. For the rest of the summer, it is required to be in close contact with the skin and not interfere with the operation. Cotton products have been mainly used from the viewpoint of hygroscopicity, but filament knitted fabrics that are thin and highly stretchable, especially filament knitted fabrics that contain elastic yarn, for the purpose of body shape correction due to constant temperature and humidity in the living environment and changes in fashion style. Has also become a popular match for women's innerwear.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
For women, the bust, hip and waist have large dimensional differences, and the only way to get an undergarment that fits the body line is to increase the stretch rate of the knitted fabric or sew and mold it. As a means for increasing the stretch rate of the knitted fabric, there is a method of increasing the knitting density, but there is a limit in terms of dimensional stability. In addition, three-dimensionalization by sewing is costly, and particularly when wearing a thin bottom, it is disliked that the seam line of the underwear becomes ground and shades outside. From this, it is expected that three-dimensional molding is possible by heat setting or the like, but there was no elastic yarn that could satisfy this. In addition, the life of the inner wear is determined by deterioration due to partial deterioration and deterioration due to discoloration and discoloration, and deterioration due to partial deformation (sagging around the neck, cuffs, and folds) due to repeated elongation. It is preferable that discoloration and deformation can be reproduced even if the breakage is only a product life.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have taken into consideration the chemical resistance, heat resistance, soft extensibility, and heat setting characteristics of the cross-linked polyolefin elastic fiber. It has led to the creation of a highly stretchable filament knitted fabric suitable for innerwear that is thin and soft and has stretchability, three-dimensional formability, and shape re-emergence by heat treatment, which could not be achieved with knitted fabric.
That is, this invention consists of the following structures.
1. A highly stretchable knitted fabric composed of non-elastic filament fibers and polyolefin-based elastic yarn, and the properties in the direction in which the polyolefin-based elastic yarn is arranged in the knitted fabric satisfy the following (1) to (3) A highly stretchable filament knitted fabric.
(4) Constant load elongation rate is 50% or more.
(5) The recovery rate is 50% or more.
(6) Iron shrinkage is 5% or less.
2. The high surface according to claim 1, wherein the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric are covered with non-elastic fibers, the non-elastic fibers are polyester-based or polyamide-based filament yarns, and the mixture ratio of the elastic yarns is 30% or less. Elastic filament knitted fabric.
3. A highly elastic filament knitting characterized in that a polyolefin-based elastic yarn is combined with an inelastic filament fiber while being drafted, and then knitted alone or knitted with another inelastic filament fiber yarn in a circular knitting machine. Ground manufacturing method.
4). A method for producing a highly stretchable filament knitted fabric, comprising knitting with a warp knitting machine with a polyolefin-based elastic yarn on the back and an inelastic filament fiber on the front.
5. An innerwear comprising the high stretch filament knitted fabric according to the first aspect described above at least partially.
[0005]
The inner wear in the present invention means underwear, bra, girdle, shorts, tights and the like.
The polyolefin elastic fiber referred to in the present invention refers to an olefin that is uniformly branched and is substantially linear, and preferably subjected to a crosslinking treatment from the viewpoint of improving various physical properties such as heat resistance. It becomes the fiber which becomes.
Here, the olefin fiber which is uniformly branched and is substantially linear refers to a polymer obtained by polymerizing an olefin monomer, and the degree of branching of the polymer is uniform.
For example, low-density polyethylene copolymerized with α-olefin and elastic fiber described in JP-A-8-509530 are examples.
Examples of the crosslinking method include chemical crosslinking using a radical initiator, a coupling agent, and the like, and a method of crosslinking by irradiating energy rays. In consideration of stability after becoming a product, crosslinking by irradiation with energy rays is preferable, but the present invention is not limited to these methods.
[0006]
The reason for using the polyolefin-based elastic fibers is as follows. One is an elastic yarn with chemical resistance that can withstand chlorine exposure to remove discoloration due to repeated wear. The other is a form memory property (form) when the heat set is sufficiently removed in a state in which the extension strain is sufficiently removed, and the residual strain generated is returned to a state close to the initial heat set state by the subsequent heat treatment by the subsequent repeated extension. This is because it has the characteristics of (reoccurrence). In addition, it is also a feature of this elastic yarn that three-dimensional molding is possible by attaching it to a three-dimensional model under tension and heat-treating it if necessary.
[0007]
The lifeline of innerwear material is elastic. It is desirable to fit along a line of the body without feeling of tightening. In particular, the stretchability in the course direction corresponding to the chest circumference and waist circumference direction is important. For this reason, the constant load elongation in the direction in which the polyolefin-based elastic yarn is arranged is preferably 50% or more, more preferably 70% or more. It is. This elongation rate is also related to the pressure applied to the skin, and the elongation rate is preferably high from the viewpoint of imparting a soft feeling of pressure. The elongation rate in the direction also affects the morphological stability and tension of the knitted fabric, and it is desired to be less than 100% in order to maintain appropriate morphological stability and tension. In addition, what is important is a recovery characteristic for the elongation, and the elongation recovery rate is preferably 50% or more, more preferably 55 to 75%. If it is less than 50%, the strain at the time of wearing does not recover, it becomes sagging and the wearing feeling is impaired, and the appearance is not good. In addition, the body line that is rich in the lady's style cannot be followed. In order to satisfy such stretchability and recoverability, it is essential to combine elastic yarns. The shrinkage rate is also important, and the iron shrinkage rate should be 5% or less. Most preferably, it is 0%, but complicated processing is required in the finishing process, resulting in high cost and not very advantageous. This characteristic is also related to the form stability when repeatedly worn, but is also important in terms of limiting the dimensional change at the time of heat treatment to be applied for the form re-emergence described later.
[0008]
The mixing ratio of the polyolefin elastic fiber in the fabric affects the elongation stress of the fabric, and if it is too much, the power becomes too strong, which gives an unpleasant feeling. In addition, the cross-linked polyolefin fiber is expensive, and if the mixing ratio is high, the economy is disadvantageous. In addition, it is intended to have a comfortable performance related to moisture by being mixed with cotton fiber. From this point of view, the mixing ratio is preferably low, and preferably less than 30%. More preferably, it is less than 25%, but 5% or more is desirable in order to satisfy the above-described stretchability.
[0009]
In addition, the knitting structure of the knitted fabric is also important, and the above-mentioned stretchability is produced as a composite of the stretchability of the composite yarn and the fabric elongation caused by the deformation of the knitted fabric. The organization is suitable. However, in some cases, it is possible to use a rib structure or an interlock structure for the winter season or the like. Here, pearl knitting is also included in the tengu in a broad sense. In the case of tricot, if an inelastic yarn is used at the forefront, the elastic yarn is arranged at the center of the knitted fabric, and the inelastic yarn covers the front and back of the knitted fabric. When the elastic yarn comes out on the surface of the knitted fabric, the frictional force becomes high, and the sliding with the skin and the upper garment is bad, which impairs the wearing feeling. In the case of circular knitted fabrics, bear yarn can be used if a technique such as lay-in is used, but there are problems such as complexity of the knitting machine and easy removal when cut, such as covering and entanglement. It is preferably used in combination with an inelastic filament yarn. Of course, the composite yarn may be 100% or knitted with other filament yarns.
[0010]
From the viewpoint of durability, polyester filament yarns, polyamide filament yarns and processed yarns thereof are suitable as inelastic filament fibers used in the present invention. Among them, polyamides having a high official moisture content and soft feel are most suitable. . Depending on the requirements, these irregular cross-section yarns can also be used. In the case of polyester filament yarn, it is possible to reduce the weight with an alkali when finishing the knitted fabric. In addition, when hygroscopicity is particularly required, rayon, cupra, acetate, promix, etc. can be used alone or in combination. Moreover, it does not cause any trouble to contain antistatic agents, antibacterial agents, antifouling agents and the like in these filament yarns.
[0011]
A characteristic of the knitted fabric of the present invention is a behavior against heat. This feature is attributed to the properties of the polyolefin elastic yarn. The cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn has excellent stretch setability, and if it is 200% or less, the form is fixed almost 100% by dry heat treatment at 90 ° C or higher and wet heat treatment at 60 ° C or higher, fixed in the extended form, and not heated again. As long as the form is retained.
Accordingly, heat molding is possible in applications where heating is not performed during repeated wearing such as underwear. It can be set in the same form as a thermoplastic fiber by attaching it to a mold having a width larger than that of the knitted fabric from which processing distortion has been sufficiently removed and heating it with steam or the like. This is also the fixation of the stitch structure, which is effective for stabilizing the form during wearing, and leads to an improvement in appearance quality. However, unfortunately, when the heat treatment is performed again in a free state, the form returns to the form prior to setting and is not suitable for a use form in which a heat treatment such as tumbler drying is performed.
[0012]
This can also be applied to a filament composite yarn before knitting. After the elastic yarn is drafted and combined with an inelastic filament yarn by covering or air entanglement, it is wound up in a stretched state, and in this form, a temperature of 60 ° C. to 95 ° C. By setting with moist heat, it becomes a rigid inelastic yarn shape, can be handled and knitted in the same way as an inelastic yarn, and elasticity is restored by a relaxing heat treatment such as scouring and dyeing later.
[0013]
The elastic fiber creeps due to more or less repeated elongation and remains as a permanent set. The deformation of the knitted fabric can be broadly divided into those that are caused by the deformation of the loop and those that are caused by the deformation of the yarn itself. However, those caused by deformation of the raw yarn cannot be recovered. However, creep of the cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn recovers at a relatively low temperature such as an iron. One phenomenon that is judged as the tolerable limit of underwear is a phenomenon in which the neck collar and cuffs are not stretched and tightened, resulting in poor appearance. However, the knitted fabric of the present invention can be recovered by a heat treatment such as ironing. If the shrinkage rate of the original knitted fabric is not sufficiently small at this time, it becomes smaller than the original size even if it shrinks too much, and this is the reason for limiting the iron shrinkage rate of the knitted fabric to 5% or less.
[0014]
Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates in detail, it does not limit embodiment of this invention.
Evaluation of this invention was implemented with the following method.
[Constant load elongation rate and recovery rate]
Measurement was performed according to the method described in Chapter IV “Measurement of mechanical properties of fabric” in “Standardization and analysis of texture evaluation” (edited by the Japan Textile Machinery Society). A sample with a width of 20 cm and a length of 5 cm was taken in the warp and warp directions of the fabric, and 4.00 x 10-3 in the length direction. At a constant / sec, the sample was pulled up to a maximum load of 100 gf / cm, and the deformation recovery process was performed to determine the elongation at the maximum load. The ratio between the elongation rate and the elongation rate of the strain difference when reaching zero stress in the deformation recovery process is taken as the recovery rate. In the case of tricot, the average value in the warp direction and the weft direction is used. Rate and recovery rate.
[0015]
[Iron shrinkage of fabric]
It was measured in accordance with method A of JIS L 1057 “Testing method for iron shrinkage of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics”. The iron temperature was 120 ° C.
[0016]
[Mixed ratio of cross-linked polyolefin fiber]
The fineness of the used cross-linked polyolefin fiber is divided by the draft ratio of the polyolefin fiber at the time of compounding, and the ratio of the fineness at the time of elongation of the composite yarn is multiplied by the mixture ratio of the composite yarn and expressed in (%). In the case of tricot, the draft ratio at the time of beaming of the elastic yarn is multiplied by the runner ratio with the non-elastic yarn and expressed in (%).
[0017]
【Example】
(Example 1)
A warp knitted fabric having a half structure was obtained with a 28-gauge tricot knitting machine using a cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn 44 dtex as a back wrinkle and a cationic normal pressure dyeable polyester filament yarn 56 dtex 36 filament as a front wrinkle. Incidentally, the content of elastic fibers was 24%. A conventional method in the scouring, pre-set, room temperature dyeing, and the final set, course density; to give a finishing cloth of 200g / m ^2; 102C / in wale density;. 62W / in basis weight.. Table 1 shows the stretch characteristics and iron shrinkage of the knitted fabric. This knitted fabric was sewn into shorts. When this was attached to a heat-resistant body, treated in a steam kettle at 85 ° C. for 15 minutes, allowed to cool at room temperature, and then removed, a three-dimensional molded shorts equivalent to the body was obtained.
[0018]
(Example 2)
While drafting the cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic yarn 78 decitex 3.3 times, it is aligned with nylon 6 filament 77 decitex 24 filament, one-stage false twisting at 2,500 T / m, and approximately 60 pieces / m interlaces and rolled up.
Using the false twist composite yarn, a knitted fabric with a tengu structure was obtained with a 28 G circular knitting machine. After scouring, dyeing, and setting in a conventional manner, a finished fabric having a basis weight of 150 g / m ² and an elastic yarn content of 23% was obtained, and tights were sewn. Table 1 shows the stretch characteristics and iron shrinkage of the knitted fabric. When this tights was worn, and a normal life was carried out, and repeated wearing 10 times while washing each time, a permanent distortion protruding to the knee portion was generated. After washing the tights, a thin towel was applied to the knee and ironed at 120 ° C. This distortion was resolved.
[0019]
(Example 3)
While drafting the cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn 44 dtex 3 times, polyester flat yarn (flat rate = 4.8) 48 dtex 36 filament yarn is covered in the S direction at 1000 T / m and wound up as a composite yarn, 85 It was set at 15 ° C. for 15 minutes. Alternating polyester flat yarn (flatness = 4.8) 48 dtex 36 filament yarn, 2 heater false twisted yarn, one by one, with a 16in diameter 19G rubber knitting machine, loop length of 580mm / 100 wreath It was. Table 1 shows the stretch properties and iron shrinkage of the knitted fabric. After scouring this knitted fabric in a conventional manner, it was used as a garment in the form of a cylinder, and sewn with a sleeve that was cut separately to make an underwear for women. After putting it on a heat-resistant body body, shaping it, treating it with wet heat at 95 ° C for 15 minutes, allowing it to cool, and removing it, the underwear with the bust and waist molded into the shape of the body is obtained. It was. The water absorption of the underwear was evaluated by the Bayrec method, but showed excellent performance.
[0020]
(Comparative Example 1)
An undergarment was prepared in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic yarn was a polyurethane elastic yarn (Toyobo Espa Type 465). Table 1 shows the stretch characteristics and iron shrinkage of the knitted fabric. In addition, a wet heat setting was attempted in the same manner as in Example 3, but the shape could not be fixed. In addition, permanent distortion generated after wearing for a long time did not recover even after heat treatment.
[0021]
[Table 1]

[0022]
【The invention's effect】
The highly stretchable filament knitted fabric of the present invention has a shape memory property by heat treatment, can recover distortion of the knitted fabric due to long-term wearing, and has a three-dimensional formability as required. It is the best knitted fabric for wear.

Claims

A highly stretchable tricot knitted fabric in which non-elastic filament fibers and bear cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarns are knitted , wherein the cross-linked polyolefin elastic fibers have a mixed use rate of 23% to 30%, An innerwear comprising at least a portion of a highly stretchable filament knitted fabric that satisfies the following conditions (1) to (3) in the direction in which the cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic yarn is arranged in the ground.
(1) The constant load elongation rate is 50% or more.
(2) Recovery rate is 50% or more.
(3) Iron shrinkage is 5% or less.

A highly stretchable circular knitted fabric or rubber knitted fabric composed of a composite yarn of non-elastic filament fibers and a cross-linked polyolefin elastic yarn, wherein the mixed use rate of the cross-linked polyolefin elastic fiber is 23% to 30 %, And a high stretch filament knitted fabric satisfying the following (1) to (3) in the direction in which the cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic yarn is arranged in the knitted fabric is at least partially used. Inner wear .
(1) The constant load elongation rate is 50% or more.
(2) Recovery rate is 50% or more.
(3) Iron shrinkage is 5% or less.

The innerwear according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric are covered with inelastic fibers, and the inelastic fibers are polyester or polyamide filament yarns .

After the crosslinked polyolefin-based elastic yarn and a composite inelastic filament fibers while draft, characterized by mixed knitting a non-elastic filament yarns knitted or other in the composite yarn, alone circular knitting machine, the cross-linking For producing a highly stretchable filament knitted fabric for innerwear, wherein the mixed use ratio of the type polyolefin elastic fiber is 23% to 30% .

The cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic fiber is knitted with a warp knitting machine with a cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic yarn at the back and a non-elastic filament fiber at the front, and the mixture ratio of the cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic fiber is 23% to 30%. A method for producing a highly stretchable filament knitted fabric for an inner wear .