JP4058598B2 - Bra manufacturing method and brassiere - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a brassiere having a small number of stitched portions and good wearing feeling, and the brassiere.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, to manufacture a brassiere, for example, determine the pattern of the cup part, the front part (center part), the front side part, and the side part, based on this, consider the mold drawing with the least loss, and each part Depending on the type, fabrics with different power (stretching force) and organization are selected and determined, and the above mold drawing is combined with these fabrics and cut to obtain cup cloth, front cloth, front side cloth, side cloth, etc. Stitch and complete with straps, under tape, hooks, etc.
[0003]
In this way, since the conventional bra needs to change the power and fabric depending on the part, it is sewn using different fabrics, so the sewing process is increased and not only advanced sewing techniques are required, but also many stitches Therefore, there are drawbacks such as a feeling of wear worsening due to grooving or the like, and a mark of the stitched portion remains on the skin from which the brassiere has been removed.
[0004]
In addition, if there are many stitched parts, the stitched parts may fray due to repeated wearing or washing, and in addition, the fabrics with different tissues may be dyed according to the site to match the unified color, so it is necessary to repeat the dyeing many times to match the color. For example, manufacturing was very troublesome.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention was devised in view of the problems in the manufacturing process of these conventional brassieres and the drawbacks of the finished brassiere, greatly reducing the sewing process, and the resulting brassiere has a smooth feel and a good wearing feeling. We propose a method of manufacturing a brassiere and its new brassiere.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In the present invention, in the process of performing cylindrical knitting (circular knitting) using a molding knitting machine, the above-described parts are knitted to the desired power and organization, and a series of fabrics are produced as brassieres. This eliminates the need for cutting and sewing, and reduces the sewing process. The above-described molding knitting machine has recently begun to be used particularly for the production of stockings, and can be freely and easily added and changed in knitting density, knitting structure, yarn, and the like by computer control.
[0007]
That is, one aspect of the present invention is a method of manufacturing a brassiere that continuously produces a series of fabrics such as an under tape part, a front part, a front side part, and a side cloth part by tubular knitting using a molding knitting machine. In the course of the tubular knitting, the knitting density and / or the knitting structure is switched according to each part of the brassiere, or the yarn is added or changed to give predetermined power and / or elongation to each part. A method of manufacturing a brassiere characterized in that a tubular knitted fabric is cut open and an unnecessary portion of the fabric is cut into a bra shape.
[0008]
In this case, when the brassiere is formed, the cup equivalent part is cut off and a cup cloth made of another fabric is sewn to the part, or the cup equivalent part is not cut off, and the cup cloth is left as it is. It can also be used as a swelled mold by molding the part.
[0009]
In addition, the upper end of the knitting switching line between the front portion and the left and right front side portions in the tubular knitting process is slightly inward of the lower end of the cup cloth to be sewn, and the lower ends are closer to the center side of the brassiere and the lower sides are close to each other. If the upper end of the switching line between the left and right front side portions and the side cloth portion is in contact with the outer middle portion of the lower half circumference of the cup cloth to be stitched, and the lower ends thereof are inclined outwardly, A feeling of wear is further improved.
[0010]
Furthermore, if the upper side is cut into a predetermined shape without cutting the continuous knitted fabric on the back side, a brassiere that makes a complete round around the chest without a stitched portion is obtained.
[0011]
Further, another invention of the present invention uses a molding knitting machine to perform cylindrical knitting with different knitting density, knitting structure or yarn usage for each upper and lower predetermined course width, and the front part covers the entire course in the process of cylindrical knitting. A spliced yarn is knitted with non-stretchable yarn to give non-stretching and strong power. After the tube knitting is completed, the unnecessary fabric portion is cut out, and the left and right cup equivalent portions are cut out to separate the cups of the different fabric. A method of manufacturing a brassiere characterized by sewing a cloth.
[0012]
In this case, by using a plurality of differently dyed yarns and switching the yarns with an appropriate course width up and down, it is possible to form a border-patterned brassiere rich in color changes up and down.
[0013]
In another aspect of the present invention, a continuous fabric of a brassiere is knitted into a vertical object by performing tubular knitting with a molding knitting machine, and this is folded back in the middle of the upper and lower sides to form a double fabric brassiere. Can also be added.
[0014]
In addition, when performing the above-described tube knitting in the present invention, a logo mark and / or a pattern may be knitted at an arbitrary position of a continuous fabric of a brassiere by knitting a spun yarn with a pre-dyed yarn.
[0015]
Further, the present invention is a brassiere that does not have a stitched part in which the under tape part, the front part, the left and right front side parts and the side cloth parts constituting the brassiere are continuously knitted by tubular knitting, The present invention relates to a brassiere characterized in that it is knitted with different knitting density, knitting structure or presence / absence of a splicing yarn, and a target power or elongation is imparted to each part.
[0016]
Further, the present invention is a brassiere knitted with different knitting density, knitting structure, or presence / absence of a yarn with a predetermined course width in the upper and lower sides, and the front portion is spliced with non-stretchable yarn over the whole course It also relates to a bra characterized by being knitted.
[0017]
In this case, this brassiere consists of three layers with different upper and lower knitting, the lower tape layer under tape part has a strong stretching force, the middle layer has a relatively weak stretching force, and the upper layer is a moderately stretchable medium It can be made to have a stretching force.
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
[0018]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Reference example 1
FIG. 1 is an explanatory view showing an example of a brassiere fabric in a state of being knitted (circular knitted) by the above-described molding knitting machine as a reference example, and FIG. FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a finished product brassie with a strap attached thereto.
[0019]
Reference numeral 1 in FIG. 1 is a front part between the left and right cups of the finished brassiere, 2 is a left and right front part from below the cups to the side, and 3 is a side connected to the front side part 2 to reach the back side. The cloth part 4 corresponds to an under tape part that makes a round with a slight width along the lower peripheral edge of the tubular knitted fabric, and 5 and 5 are cup equivalent parts for sewing the left and right cup fabrics 6 and 6, respectively. , 7 indicate portions to be cut and removed as unnecessary fabric portions.
[0020]
In the case of knitting this fabric, one continuous bra fabric is obtained while being rotationally knitted in the circumferential direction, but first the line portion 4 a corresponding to the upper side of the under tape portion 4 is started. Since the under tape 4 requires the strongest power and elasticity, for example, a single covering yarn obtained by covering a polyurethane thread with a wooly nylon thread and a polyurethane thread added to a wooly nylon thread. After knitting toward the lower side 4b of the tape part 4, bag knitting is performed so as to be reversed upward, and the under tape part 4 having a predetermined width and strong expansion / contraction force is formed.
[0021]
Then, next, the front part 1, the front side part 2, and the side cloth part 3 are knitted continuously, but at this time, from the front part 1 to the front side part 2, and from the front side part 2 to the side cloth part 3. By switching to different knitting methods in the vertical switching lines 8 and 9, the necessary power or stretchability is imparted to each part.
[0022]
That is, since it is necessary to prevent the front portion 1 from expanding and contracting, for example, the single covering yarn and wooly nylon yarn are plated, and then the wooly nylon yarn is added over the entire course and knitted with a plain structure. Or three coats or floats as tightly stitched and knitted including the inner half of the cup-corresponding portions 5 and 5, and the front side 2 is preferably moderately stretched. For example, the above covering yarn and wooly nylon Using yarn, add wooly nylon yarn every other course and knit plain, or knit relatively densely with 2 coat stack or float. Further, since the side cloth portion 3 requires the most elongation and may have a small power, for example, the above covering yarn and woolly nylon yarn are used, and the knitting density is coarsely knitted with a plain structure or one coat stack.
[0023]
In this way, the knitting density and the knitting structure are changed by the vertical switching line, or the spliced yarn is knitted at a necessary portion to change the power and the stretchability.
[0024]
Then, when a completely cylindrical knitted fabric is obtained in this way, it is opened to the left and right at the back center, and substantially semicircular cut lines 5a and 5a of the left and right cup equivalent portions 5 and 5 and the cut line of the unnecessary fabric portion 7 are obtained. Cut along 7a to remove the portions 5, 5 and 7. And the cup cloths 6 and 6 comprised by the lace, the nonwoven fabric, etc. are stitched | sutured in the cup equivalent parts 5 and 5 along the said cutting lines 5a and 5a, and the upper end part from the front side part 2 to the side cloth part 3 is Folded or sewn with elastic tape to give the necessary power, and hooked parts 10 and 10 were sewn to the open ends of the left and right side cloth parts 3 and 3, respectively. The straps 11 and 11 are attached to predetermined locations on the upper side.
[0025]
In the above description, an example is shown in which the cup cloth 6 is manufactured in advance and stitched to the cut portion of the cup-corresponding portion 5 of the tubular knitted fabric, but this portion 5 is left as the cup cloth 6 without cutting. This part is knitted so that it sags as necessary, the upper side is cut into a normal cup line, a mold swelled by molding (heat set) is given, and a reinforcing cloth is sewn Then, the cup cloth 6 may be configured.
[0026]
Reference example 2
FIG. 4 shows an example in which the vertical switching lines 8 and 9 in FIG. 1 are changed in an oblique direction, and the yarns of the under tape part 4, the front part 1, the front side part 2, and the side cloth part 3 themselves at the time of tubular knitting. The use and knitting structure may be the same as in the first embodiment, but the upper ends of the switching lines 8 and 8 between the front portion 1 and the front side portion 2 are slightly inward from the lower end of the cup 6 when stitched. The lower end reaching the upper side of the under tape 4 approaches the center side of the brassiere so that the lower sides are inclined in the approaching direction.
[0027]
Also, one end of the switching lines 9, 9 between the front side part 2 and the side cloth part 3 is made to come to the outer middle part of the lower half periphery of the cup 6 when stitched, and the other end reaching the upper side of the under tape 4 is Further, it is inclined in the outward direction.
[0028]
By inclining the switching lines 8 and 9 in this way, the side cloth portion 3 having a relatively small power and extending is connected to the upper portion of the lower half of the cups 6 and 6, so Since the tightening force is smaller than the other parts and has elasticity, the feeling of wearing is improved.
[0029]
Reference example 3
In each of the above examples, a continuous fabric knitted with a molding knitting machine is cut along the longitudinal center line on the back side, and then a predetermined portion on the upper side is cut. However, FIG. The example which cuts the predetermined part of an upper side and makes it a cylindrical bra is shown.
[0030]
In this case, since the length of the brassiere cannot be adjusted, the side cloth part 3 extending to the entire back side needs to be applied with power substantially equal to or close to the expansion / contraction force of the under tape part 4. Further, the cup-corresponding portion 5 may be cut out and a separate cloth cup cloth may be sewn thereto. However, as described above, the portion 5 is knitted with a slack without cutting the portion 5, and the upper side is knitted. It can be made strapless by forming into a cup shape 6 by performing mold processing after cutting into an appropriate line. Then, if necessary, a reinforcing cloth is sewn inside the cup or a strap is attached. According to the third embodiment, the brassiere is made of a continuous fabric that does not have a stitched portion and makes a full circle.
[0031]
Example FIG. 6 is an explanatory view showing a bra fabric in a tubular knitting state according to the method of the present invention, and FIG. 7 is an explanatory front view of a brassiere using this fabric, and in this case, with a predetermined width in the vertical direction of the fabric. The knitting density or knitting structure is different, or the yarn is changed, and a plurality of switching lines are provided in the circumferential direction (three in the figure), and the layers are knitted so as to have different power and stretchability.
[0032]
In this case, only the lower under tape portion 4 is the same as described above. For example, a polyurethane yarn covered with a wooly nylon yarn and a wooly nylon yarn added with a polyurethane yarn are knitted to give a strong stretching force, When the switching line 14 is reached, the yarn is changed to only the covering yarn and the woolly nylon yarn, and the knitting density is coarsely knitted, or tuck knitting is performed to knit the middle layer 12 with relatively weak power, When the switching line 15 is reached, polyurethane yarn is added to the covering yarn and the woolly nylon yarn, and the knit is densely knitted plain or tucked to knit the upper layer 13 having higher power than the middle layer. .
[0033]
However, when the front part 1 is knitted at this time, it is necessary to impart a non-stretchable and strong power to the part 1, so during the knitting of the middle layer 12 or the upper layer 13, for example, the front part Nylon yarn is added to all 1 courses and knitted plain, or knitted with a very dense knitting density.
[0034]
Then, after completion of the tubular knitting, the unnecessary fabric 7 is cut out, and the left and right cup equivalent portions 5 are cut out and the cup fabric 6 of another fabric is sewn as in the first embodiment. The left and right cup equivalent portions 5 are not cut out, but are used as cup cloths 6 as they are, and the portions 5 are knitted with sag, and the upper side is cut into an appropriate line, and then the mold is processed to swell the cup. The shape may be the same as described above.
[0035]
In this way, the bra formed in layers by using different knitting density, knitting structure or yarn use with a predetermined width above and below, because moderate power is also given to the side part, so that the side meat is not missed sideways, A force that brings the chest to the center is generated, and a bra with a beautiful design with a horizontal stripe pattern which is unprecedented and has an extremely design effect.
[0036]
Also, if the forming knitting machine has 8 yarn feeders and 6-7 yarn feeders, prepare different dyed yarns for each finger and use the appropriate course width. By switching the yarn at, it becomes possible to make a horizontal border pattern with different colors every 8 courses, and it is possible to manufacture a brassiere that is rich in color changes up and down.
[0037]
Reference example 4
FIG. 8 shows an example in which a continuous fabric of brassiere is knitted symmetrically and folded back and forth between the upper and lower sides to make the brassiere double and give the necessary power, and is shown by a solid line. A horizontally long rectangle shows a state in which a fabric knitted in a cylinder is cut open left and right at the center on the back side.
[0038]
In this case, the upper side 16 of the fabric is the starting position for knitting, and the fabric is knitted downward. At this time, the knitting density, the knitting structure, etc. are changed according to the respective parts such as the front portion and the side cloth portion as in the first and second embodiments, or the knitting density and knitting with a predetermined width in the vertical direction as in the fourth embodiment. It is optional to change the structure, etc. When the under tape part 4 comes to the position, it is attached with a yarn and further knitted by bag knitting to give a strong stretch force. The line on the upper side of the under tape part 4 (XX line) The lower side is knitted into the upper side and the target.
[0039]
Then, when the tubular knitting is completed in this way, it is folded by the XX line to make a double fabric, the cup equivalent portion 5 and the unnecessary portion 7 are cut out, and the cup cloth 6, the hook portion 10 and the strap 11 are attached. These are the same as in Example 1.
[0040]
Moreover, although not shown in the drawing, it is a matter of course that the entire fabric may be double knitted from the beginning, instead of folding the fabric to make it double.
[0041]
Reference Example 5
As described above, recent molding and knitting machines can not only change the knitting density and knitting structure during knitting, but also can easily add and change yarns by computer control.
[0042]
Accordingly, pattern formation and logo mark knitting can be easily performed during the knitting process of the brassiere by the above-mentioned continuous fabric. For example, as shown in FIG. It is also possible to knit the logo mark 17 such as a letter so as to stand out, or to create a pattern 18 such as a letter, a spiral pattern, or a tuck pattern on any other part.
[0043]
【The invention's effect】
The brassiere according to the method of the present invention is as described above and has the following advantages.
(1) Since a brassiere is manufactured by knitting a continuous fabric with different power (stretching force) and elongation for each part of the brassiere with a molding knitting machine and cutting off unnecessary parts, the number of sewing points is reduced. As a result, the skill of sewing techniques becomes faster, the time required for sewing is shortened, and high quality brassieres can be produced in large quantities.
[0044]
(2) Since there are few sewn parts, the feeling of softness and crispness of the stitched part when wearing a brassiere is reduced, the touch is smooth, and the feeling of wear is improved. Further, fraying from the stitched portion is also reduced accordingly.
[0045]
(3) Since the number of fabric members to be stitched is reduced, not only can the examination time for drawing drawings be omitted, but also color matching by dyeing is facilitated.
[0046]
(4) All parts except the hook and strap can be knitted with a continuous fabric, and a horizontal bordered brassiere with different colors on the top and bottom can be produced without a stitched part.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is an explanatory perspective view of a brassiere fabric showing a reference example of a manufacturing process in a state where a tube is knitted by a molding knitting machine.
FIG. 2 is a front explanatory view of a state in which the tubular fabric of FIG. 1 is cut open, unnecessary portions are cut off, and a cup cloth and a hook portion are sewn together.
3 is a perspective view of the finished product brassiere with a strap attached to the brassiere shown in FIG. 2. FIG.
FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram showing a reference example of another brassiere that is knitted by changing a switching line;
FIG. 5 is an explanatory view showing a reference example of another brassiere produced without cutting a tubular knitted fabric.
FIG. 6 is an explanatory perspective view of a brassiere fabric in a tubular knitting state according to the method of the present invention in which the knitting methods are different in the vertical direction.
7 is an explanatory front view of a brassiere using the fabric of FIG. 6. FIG.
FIG. 8 is an explanatory diagram showing another reference example, and shows a case where the continuous fabric of the brassiere is doubled.
FIG. 9 is an explanatory view showing another reference example, showing an example in which a logo mark or a design is created on a continuous fabric of a brassiere.
[Explanation of symbols]
1-front part 2-front side part 3-side cloth part 4-under tape part 5-cup equivalent part 6-cup cloth 7-unnecessary cloth part 8-knitting switching line 9-knitting switching line 10-hook part 11 -Strap 12-Middle layer 13-Upper layer 14-Knitting switching line 15-Knitting switching line 16-Tube knitted fabric upper side 17-Logo mark 18-Design

Claims (4)

  Using a forming knitting machine, cylinder knitting is performed with different knitting density, knitting structure or yarn usage for each upper and lower predetermined course width, and the front part is knitted with non-stretchable yarn over the whole course in the course of cylinder knitting The non-stretchable and strong power is applied, and after the knitting is completed, the unnecessary fabric portion is cut out, and the left and right cup equivalent portions are cut out and a cup fabric of another fabric is sewn on the portion. Bra manufacturing method.   The method for manufacturing a brassiere according to claim 1, wherein a plurality of differently dyed dyed yarns are used and the yarns are switched at an appropriate course width up and down to form a border-patterned brassiere that is rich in color changes up and down.   It is a bra knitted with different knitting density, knitting structure or presence / absence of a yarn with a predetermined course width above and below, and the front part is knitted with a non-stretch yarn over the entire course. Characteristic bra.   The brassiere consists of three layers with different upper and lower knitting, the under tape part of the lower layer has a strong stretching force, the middle layer has a relatively weak stretching force, and the upper layer has a moderate stretching force with good elongation. The brassiere according to claim 3.

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