JP4044941B2 - Cosmetics for aging skin - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic useful for optically correcting smoothing of the skin surface accompanying aging and the like.

  It is already known that the skin changes variously with aging. For example, it is known that irregularities such as the dermis and skin groove are reduced, and the collagen fiber bundle structure of the dermis is disturbed. ing. Among these, it is known that triterpenic acids such as ursolic acids effectively act on the reconstruction of the collagen fiber bundle structure of the dermis. However, regarding the reduction of unevenness such as skin hills and skin grooves, there is no known means for recovering the unevenness, nor means for restoring it, and there is no choice but to accept morphological changes accompanying aging as they are. Therefore, it has been desired to construct a countermeasure as a cosmetic for the morphological change accompanying such aging.

  In the field of cosmetics, to respond to morphological changes accompanying aging, 1) transdermally administer highly moisturizing ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate and heparin-like substances to improve the moisture content in the skin, 2) Treatment with cosmetics containing a film-forming substance, forming a film and extending the slack of wrinkles, etc. 3) Filling semi-transparent powder into wrinkles and pores to make it look smooth, etc. However, any of these treatments for loss of irregularities such as skin grooves and skin hills is impossible.

  On the other hand, as a raw material for cosmetics, powders having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm are not known at all, and such powders are useful for optical correction of loss of unevenness in skin grooves and skin hills. It is not known at all. Therefore, such powders and spherical powders (excluding powders having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm, hereinafter, spherical powders excluding such powders having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm) There is no known technique for combining powders simply with spherical powders). Furthermore, by combining such a powder and a spherical powder, the loss of optical effect due to twisting during the application of a powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm can be suppressed, and the correction effect can be improved. Was not known at all.

  The present invention has been made under such circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide means for optically correcting the loss of irregularities such as skin grooves and hides.

In view of such a situation, the present inventors have sought for means for optically correcting the loss of irregularities such as skin grooves and hides, and as a result of earnest research efforts, the maximum length is 200 on average. Such correction is possible by using cosmetics characterized by containing fibrous powder of ~ 500 μm and spherical powder (excluding powders with an average maximum length of 200-500 μm). I found out that the invention was completed. That is, the present invention relates to the following technique.
(1) An under-makeup comprising fibrous powder having a maximum length of 200 to 500 μm on average and spherical powder (excluding powder having a maximum length of 200 to 500 μm on average) Cosmetics.
(2) The under-makeup cosmetic composition according to (1) , wherein the fibrous powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm is a synthetic fiber.
(3) The under-makeup cosmetic according to (1) or (2) , which is for optical correction of smoothing of the skin surface accompanying aging.
(4) A fibrous powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm and a spherical powder (excluding a powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm) are blended in a cosmetic, (1) The manufacturing method of the undermakeup cosmetics in any one of (3).
(5) A cosmetic method comprising using the under-makeup cosmetic composition according to any one of (1) to (3), and imparting unevenness-like optical correction to the skin.
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with a focus on embodiments.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide means for optically correcting the loss of irregularities such as skin grooves and hides.

(1) Powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm, which is an essential component of the cosmetic of the present invention. The cosmetic of the present invention is a powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm, more preferably 250 to 400 μm. Body powder is contained as an essential component. The shape of such a powder is not particularly limited as long as it is known for cosmetics, and examples thereof include a spherical shape, a plate shape, and a fibrous shape. Among these, a particularly preferable shape is a fibrous shape. The components constituting these powders are not particularly limited as long as they are used in cosmetics. For example, cocoon talc, cocoon mica, nylon fiber, silk fiber. Polyester fiber, silica, sericite and the like can be exemplified, and among these, particularly preferred are translucent ones such as nylon fiber, silk fiber or polyester fiber. Of these three, nylon fibers are particularly preferred because of their availability and optical effects. These can be obtained by grading the existing powder raw material when it is crushed or cut and spheroidizing. Some of such materials are commercially available as raw materials in fields other than cosmetics, and these can also be used. In addition, when crushing, a method of impregnating ore with water or the like, such as cracked talc or cracked mica, and then stripping in the direction of crystal attachment, that is, cracking (cracking). ) Can be adjusted advantageously. In the present invention, such a powder having a maximum length of 200 to 500 μm on average, more preferably 250 to 400 μm, has a three-dimensional unevenness formed by the skin groove and the skin, The optical characteristics close to the optical effect when the unevenness is large at a young age are imparted. Even if the maximum length is less than 200 μm or more than 500 μm, such an effect is extremely small. In the cosmetic of the present invention, such a powder can contain only one species or a combination of two or more species. In the cosmetic of the present invention, the preferable content of the powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm, more preferably 250 to 400 μm is 0.1 to 30% by weight in total. More preferably, it is 1 to 10% by weight. This is because if the amount is too small, the effect may not be exhibited, and if the amount is too large, the function as a cosmetic may be impaired.

(2) Spherical powder which is an essential component of the cosmetic of the present invention The cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by containing a spherical powder. The spherical powder as referred to in the present invention means a powder having a shape with an average distortion of 20% or less from a true sphere, specifically spherical silica beads, spherical acrylic resin powder, nylon powder. Examples thereof include silk powder, spherical calcium silicate, spherical magnesium silicate, methylsiloxane network polymer, cross-linked methylpolysiloxane, and surface treated products thereof. Examples of the surface treatment include a process of baking silicone such as hydrogenmethylpolysiloxane and dimethylpolysiloxane, a process with a silane coupling agent having an alkyl group or a fluoroalkyl group, a process with a fluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine, an aluminum stearate or stearin. A coating treatment with a metal soap such as magnesium acid can be preferably exemplified. Among such spherical powders, the spherical powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm that overlaps with the powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm, which is another essential component, is the present invention. It shall not be included in the spherical powder. Since these are all commercially available as raw materials for cosmetics, they are very easy to obtain. In the cosmetic of the present invention, these spherical powders can be contained alone or in combination of two or more. In the cosmetic of the present invention, these spherical powders have an action of spreading on the skin without swaying the powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm. The total content of these spherical powders in the cosmetic of the present invention is 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 2 to 20% by weight. This is because, with this content, this warpage can be prevented without impairing the optical effect of the powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm. That is, if the spherical powder is less than 1% by weight, it may not be possible to prevent sag. If it is more than 40% by weight, the optical effect of the powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm may be impaired. Because.

(3) Cosmetics of the present invention The cosmetics of the present invention are characterized by containing the above-mentioned essential components, and the types of cosmetics are not particularly limited as long as they are generally known. For example, basic cosmetics such as creams, emulsions and lotions, makeup cosmetics such as foundations and under-makeup, white powder, teak color, and eye color can be preferably exemplified. Among these, particularly preferred are makeup cosmetics that can be contained in a natural form without a sense of incongruity. Among them, base makeup cosmetics such as under-makeup, foundation, and white powder are particularly preferred. Among these, under makeup cosmetics that can correct the optical effect derived from the surface shape of the skin at a position closest to the skin are particularly preferable. As described above, the cosmetic of the present invention gives uneven surface-like optical correction by an optical effect on the surface of the skin where the unevenness of the skin groove / cutaneous surface has become scarce due to aging change. It is preferably applied as an optical correction for the smoothing of the accompanying skin surface. In the cosmetics of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, the average maximum length is 200 to 500 μm, more preferably 250 to 400 μm, and any powder usually used in cosmetics. The component of this can be contained. Examples of such optional components include hydrocarbons such as petrolatum and microcrystalline wax, esters such as jojoba oil and geiwa, triglycerides such as beef tallow and olive oil, silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane. , Higher alcohols such as cetanol and oleyl alcohol, fatty acids such as stearic acid and oleic acid, polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, poly Nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl mono fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, alkyl sulfate, polyoxyethylene alkyl sulfate, alkyl Anionic surfactants such as phosphates, cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium salts, thickeners such as ethanol and carbopol, preservatives such as parabens, benzalkonium chloride and hibitengluconate, ultraviolet absorbers, Examples include antioxidants, pigments, powders other than the above essential components, and the like. The cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by treating these optional components and the essential components according to a conventional method.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but it is needless to say that the present invention is not limited to such examples.

<Example 1> An under-make-up cosmetic which is a cosmetic of the present invention was prepared according to the formulation shown below. That is, a and b are heated to 80 ° C. respectively, and c is added and dispersed well, and b is gradually added to the mixture while stirring and cooled with stirring to obtain an under-makeup cosmetic (under make-up 1). It was. At the same time, Comparative Example 1 in which the powder composition of this product was replaced with only nylon fibers, Comparative Example 2 in which only spherical acrylic resin was replaced, Comparative Example 3 in which only talc was replaced, and Control Example 1 in which only water was replaced were also prepared. . The skin surface shape was measured in advance using a replica, and 40 panelists with less irregularities were selected and divided into four groups so as not to be biased. The right half face of these panelists was treated with Under Makeup 1, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 2, and Comparative Example 3 of the above under makeup cosmetics, and the left half face was treated with the Under Make Up of Control Example 1. After that, it was made up with a foundation showing the prescription below, and compared with Control Example 1, each undermake-up showed how vigorously it looked younger ++ (score 2): very rejuvenated, + ( Rating 1): Clearly rejuvenated, ± (grading 0.5): Slightly rejuvenated,-(grading 0): Judgment based on the standard of not being seen. The determination results are shown in Table 1. From this, it can be seen that the effect of making the under-makeup of the present invention look the youngest is high, and then this effect is seen in Comparative Example 1. It can also be seen that the other two products do not have this effect. It can also be seen that there is a large difference in effect between the undermake 1 and the comparative example 1. From this, it can be seen that such an optical effect is derived from nylon fibers, and that the action of the cosmetic of the present invention is effectively expressed by the spherical powder.
(Undermake 1 prescription)
I)
Squalane 2 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 1 part by weight glyceryl triisooctanoate 4 parts by weight cetyl isooctanoate 12 parts by weight sorbitan monooleate 0.4 parts by weight stearic acid 1.5 parts by weight stearic acid monoglyceride 3 parts by weight POE (6) Sorbitan monostearate 0.5 parts by weight POE (45) stearic acid ester 1 part by weight butyl paraben 0.1 part by weight b)
1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight methylparaben 0.3 part by weight arginine 0.6 part by weight water 64.6 parts by weight c)
Nylon fiber (300 μm) 2 parts by weight Spherical acrylic resin 2 parts by weight Talc 2 parts by weight

(Foundation prescription)
Silicone treatment * Titanium dioxide 30 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Iron oxide 10 parts by weight Silicone treatment * 20 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Talc 30 parts by weight Dimethicone 5 parts by weight octyldodecyl oleate 5 parts by weight Silicone treatment *: Hydrogen methylsiloxane Baked with 5% of powder (baking temperature 200 ° C)

<Example 2> For the undermake 1 and the comparative example 1 of Example 1 described above, this was applied onto the skin, stripped with cello tape (registered trademark), and the distribution of nylon fibers on the cello tape (registered trademark). The variation was determined as the average and standard deviation of the number of 1 mm × 1 mm nylon fibers at 10 locations. The results are shown in Table 2. From this, it is understood that the distribution of the nylon fiber is significantly improved in the undermake 1 as compared with the comparative example 1. That is, it can be seen that the non-uniformity distribution of nylon fibers is improved by the spherical acrylic resin which is a spherical powder, and this is the difference in the effect of Example 1.

<Example 3 >
Under makeup cosmetics were prepared by reducing the amount of spherical powder according to the formulation shown below. That is, a and b are heated to 80 ° C. respectively, and c is added and dispersed well, and b is gradually added to the mixture while stirring and cooled with stirring to obtain an under-makeup cosmetic (under make-up 2 ). It was. As a result of performing the same evaluation as in Example 2, the average was 23.9 and the standard deviation was 12.3. From this, in the cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the spherical powder was 1 It can be seen that it is preferably at least wt%, more preferably at least 2 wt%.
I)
Squalane 2 parts by weight microcrystalline wax 1 part by weight glyceryl triisooctanoate 4 parts by weight cetyl isooctanoate 12 parts by weight sorbitan monooleate 0.4 parts by weight stearic acid 1.5 parts by weight stearic acid monoglyceride 3 parts by weight POE (6) Sorbitan monostearate 0.5 parts by weight POE (45) stearic acid ester 1 part by weight butyl paraben 0.1 part by weight b)
1,3-butanediol 5 parts by weight methylparaben 0.3 part by weight arginine 0.6 part by weight water 65.6 parts by weight c)
Nylon fiber (300 μm) 2 parts by weight Spherical acrylic resin 1 part by weight Talc 2 parts by weight

< Reference Example 1 >
A finished white powder (Foundation 1) was prepared according to the formulation shown below. That is, the component a was mixed with a Henschel mixer, then pulverized with a pulverizer equipped with a 0.9 mm round hole screen, and the component B was sprayed and coated while mixing with a Henschel mixer. This was finished and pulverized by a pulverizer equipped with a 1 mm herringbone screen, packed in a metal pan and pressure-molded to obtain a finished white powder. Separately, a control example 2 in which the nylon fiber (300 μm) of this product was replaced with talc was prepared, and 10 panelists were evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The average score was 1.4. From this, it was confirmed that even if the cosmetic of the present invention was applied to the foundation, the same effect was obtained.
I)
Silicone treatment * Titanium dioxide 3 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Iron oxide 1 part by weight Silicone treatment * Sericite 20 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Mica 34 parts by weight Methylsiloxane network polymer 10 parts by weight Nylon fiber (300 μm) 20 parts by weight b)
Dimethicone 5 parts by weight octyldodecyl oleate 5 parts by weight Silicone treatment *: Hydrogenmethylsiloxane was baked 5% of the powder amount (baking temperature 200 ° C.)

< Reference Example 2 >
As in Reference Example 1 , foundations 2 to 4 were prepared by changing the amount of nylon fiber. When this was similarly evaluated, the results shown in Table 4 were obtained. Thus, in the cosmetic of the present invention, the preferable content of the powder having a maximum length of 200 to 500 μm is 0.1 to 30% by weight in total, and more preferably 1 to 10% by weight. %.
I)
Silicone treatment * Titanium dioxide 30 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Iron oxide 10 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Sericite 20 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Mica 34 parts by weight Methylsiloxane network polymer 10 parts by weight Nylon fiber (300 μm) **
talc**
B)
Dimethicone 5 parts by weight octyldodecyl oleate 5 parts by weight Silicone treatment *: Hydrogenmethylsiloxane was baked 5% of the powder amount (baking temperature 200 ° C.)
** Details are given in Table 4.

< Reference Example 3 >
The same finished white powder (foundations 5 to 7) was prepared by changing the length of the nylon made in Reference Example 1 and evaluated in the same manner. The results are shown in Table 5. From this, it can be seen that in the cosmetic of the present invention, the preferable average maximum length is 200 to 500 μm on average, more preferably 250 to 400 μm.
I)
Silicone treatment * Titanium dioxide 3 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Iron oxide 1 part by weight Silicone treatment * Sericite 20 parts by weight Silicone treatment * Mica 34 parts by weight Methylsiloxane network polymer 10 parts by weight Nylon fiber (*** μm) 20 parts by weight B)
Dimethicone 5 parts by weight octyldodecyl oleate 5 parts by weight Silicone treatment *: Hydrogenmethylsiloxane was baked 5% of the powder amount (baking temperature 200 ° C.)
***: Details are given in Table 5.

< Reference Example 4 >
A cream which is a cosmetic of the present invention was prepared according to the following formulation. That is, a, b, and c are heated to 70 ° C., kneaded well, added with b, diluted, and added with c, dispersed in ni, gradually emulsified, stirred and cooled to cream ( Basic cosmetics). This not only optically corrected the flatness of the skin, but also had the effect of correcting the disturbance of the dermal collagen fiber bundle.
I)
Maltitol (70% aqueous solution) 3 parts by weight glycerin 3 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 4.6 parts by weight ethyl ursolate 0.1 part by weight butyl paraben 0.1 part by weight methyl paraben 0.2 part by weight triglycerin diiso Stearate 5 parts by weight b)
Liquid paraffin 10 parts by weight Microcrystalline wax 5 parts by weight Light isoparaffin 15 parts by weight c)
48 parts by weight of water)
Polyester fiber (250 μm) 2 parts by weight Methylsiloxane network polymer 4 parts by weight

< Reference Example 5 >
A cream which is a cosmetic of the present invention was prepared according to the following formulation. That is, a, b, and c are heated to 70 ° C., kneaded well, added with b, diluted, and added with c, dispersed in ni, gradually emulsified, stirred and cooled to cream ( Basic cosmetics). This not only optically corrected the flatness of the skin, but also had the effect of correcting the disturbance of the dermal collagen fiber bundle.
I)
Maltitol (70% aqueous solution) 3 parts by weight glycerin 3 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 4.6 parts by weight ethyl ursolate 0.1 part by weight butyl paraben 0.1 part by weight methyl paraben 0.2 part by weight triglycerin diiso Stearate 5 parts by weight b)
Liquid paraffin 10 parts by weight Microcrystalline wax 5 parts by weight Light isoparaffin 15 parts by weight c)
48 parts by weight of water)
Silk fiber (350 μm) 2 parts by weight Methylsiloxane network polymer 4 parts by weight

< Reference Example 6 >
A cream which is a cosmetic of the present invention was prepared according to the following formulation. That is, a, b, and c are heated to 70 ° C., kneaded well, added with b, diluted, and added with c, dispersed in ni, gradually emulsified, stirred and cooled to cream ( Basic cosmetics). This not only optically corrected the flatness of the skin, but also had the effect of correcting the disturbance of the dermal collagen fiber bundle.
I)
Maltitol (70% aqueous solution) 3 parts by weight glycerin 3 parts by weight 1,3-butanediol 4.6 parts by weight ethyl ursolate 0.1 part by weight butyl paraben 0.1 part by weight methyl paraben 0.2 part by weight triglycerin diiso Stearate 5 parts by weight b)
Liquid paraffin 10 parts by weight Microcrystalline wax 5 parts by weight Light isoparaffin 15 parts by weight c)
48 parts by weight of water)
Heavy talc (200 μm) 2 parts by weight Methylsiloxane network polymer 4 parts by weight

Claims (5)

An under-makeup cosmetic comprising a fibrous powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm and a spherical powder (excluding a spherical powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm). . Maximum fibrous powder length 200~500μm on average, characterized in that it is a synthetic fiber, under makeup cosmetic according to claim 1. The under-makeup cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2 , which is used for optical correction of smoothing of the skin surface accompanying aging. 2. A fibrous powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm and a spherical powder (excluding powder having an average maximum length of 200 to 500 μm) are blended in cosmetics. The manufacturing method of the undermakeup cosmetics any one of -3. A cosmetic method comprising using the under-makeup cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and imparting unevenness-like optical correction to the skin.