JP4003215B2 - Cotton crepe fabric and clothes and method for producing cotton crepe fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing cotton crepe raw Chi及 beauty clothes and cotton crepe fabric.

  As is well known, cotton noodles using cotton yarn as a part of weft or warp are widely used. In addition, a shirt (Patent Document 1) formed by sewing a fabric made of synthetic fibers and cotton fibers as wefts and sewing a cotton noodle fabric, and soccer or wrinkles using cotton and hemp yarns alternately for warps or wefts. A woven fabric (Patent Document 2) has been proposed.

JP-A-61-102401 JP 63-1112746 A

  The most common reason for the disappearance of Japanese-style cotton fabrics woven in various parts of Japan is that their lifestyle has changed and they no longer wear kimonos in their daily lives, but even when wearing kimonos as fashionable clothes. The poor physical properties of conventional cotton fabrics, such as poor moisture release and poor handling of hems due to fuzz, have been regarded as problems.

  In view of this, the present invention aims to solve the above-mentioned problems and to realize a cotton material with a refreshing comfort and appropriate tension suitable for the Japanese climate, and a simple and practical cotton material as a technical problem. As a result of repeated research and experimentation, the above technical problem was achieved by weaving a cotton crepe fabric using a single cotton yarn that is strongly twisted and used as weft yarn, and a single cotton yarn that is not over-twisted as warp yarn. Is.

  The technical problem can be solved by the present invention as follows.

That is, cotton crepe fabric according to the present invention, gluing dried and final twists was 100% single strength cotton left twisted twine twisted left number 1000-3000 turns / m twist 100% single yarn cotton after glue drying weft 100% single yarn cotton not twisted after having glued dried warp with use of 100% cotton single strength of right twisted yarn was twist top to twist right at 100% cotton single yarn twist number 1000-3000 times / m twisted after 100% cotton made by weaving 100% cotton single strong twisted weft of the left twisted yarn and 100% cotton single strong twisted weft of the right twisted yarn and weaving the warp and each weft. Chirimen dough.

  A garment according to the present invention is formed by sewing the cotton crepe fabric.

Furthermore, the manufacturing method of the cotton crepe fabric according to the present invention, a left twisted weft of 100% cotton and twist top to twist left number 1000-3000 turns / m twist 100% single yarn cotton after gluing drying, cotton 100 % single yarns with twist top to the right twist gluing dried to twist number 1000-3000 turns / m is 100% of the right twisted weft cotton, the two kinds of weft and glue dried over twisted non 100% cotton single yarn The warp yarn is used to weave the left twisted 100% cotton single strong twisted weft and the right twisted 100% cotton single strong twisted weft to weave a cotton crepe fabric with the warp and each weft. After this, the glue is washed away.

  According to the present invention, the left and right twisted yarns of the cotton single yarn obtained by strongly twisting the cotton single yarn are used for each weft, and the cotton crepe fabric is woven using the cotton single yarn that is not over twisted as the warp. Because of the hygroscopic properties and the point contact property of Chirimen, it is possible to provide a refreshing comfort and appropriate tension suitable for the Japanese climate, and a simple and practical cotton material.

  Embodiments of the present invention will be described below.

Embodiment 1 FIG.

  The cotton crepe fabric according to the present embodiment is obtained by twisting the cotton single yarn glued with the cotton single strong twist yarn of the left twisted yarn obtained by twisting the cotton single yarn glued to the weft yarn into the left twist at a twist frequency of 1000 to 3000 times / m. It is woven using a cotton single strong twisted yarn of a right twisted yarn twisted in a right twist at 1000 to 3000 times / m, and a cotton single yarn that is not twisted and glued to a warp yarn.

  The cotton single yarn should be 30th to 60th cotton 100%, and in the case of 30th cotton single yarn, for example, for dyed and dried 8.5Kg (12 parts) cotton single yarn Glue the paste with a weight of about 9.8kg after sun drying, and twist the cotton single yarn after gluing and drying with an eight-pitch twisting machine (wet) at a twist count of 1000 to 3000 times / m. Two types of cotton single strong twisted yarns are made into weft yarns. In the cotton single strong twisted weft, if the number of twists of the twisted yarn is less than 1000 times / m, it is not preferable because the texture is weak and a unique texture is not produced. If the number of times of twisting exceeds 3000 times / m, the cotton yarn will be excessively distorted. In addition, since the elongation is extremely lowered and a yarn break of 20% or more is generated in the twisting process, the ratio of the products that pass the weaving is extremely unfavorable.

  In the 30th to 60th cotton single yarn of 100% cotton, a single cotton warp yarn is obtained by gluing in the same manner as described above without applying an upper twist.

The gluing is for improving the sliding of the ridges so that yarn breakage and fluffing do not occur during weaving.

  A cotton cotton noodle fabric is woven by alternately driving the right and left twisted yarns of the cotton single strong twisted weft into the cotton single yarn warp, and after weaving, the glue of the cotton dust noodle fabric is removed. By preparing two types of right-twisted yarn and left-twisted yarn as weft strong twist yarns and weaving them alternately in weaving, a unique texture of cotton crepe can be obtained.

Yukata is sewn with the cotton crepe fabric.

In this embodiment, the right and left twisted wefts are alternately driven, but it is not always necessary to alternate, and it may be driven in two or three depending on the weaving method. Furthermore, in addition to the two types of wefts, other conventional wefts may be driven.

  In the present embodiment, since the cotton single yarn is glued and dried, and then twisted with an eight-cage twisting machine (wet), a right twisted weft and a left twisted weft having a twist count of 1000 to 3000 times / m can be obtained. A cotton single yarn that has been glued and dried and is not subjected to twisting is used for warp yarn, so that the wrinkles are slippery and no yarn breakage or fluffing occurs during weaving.

  In addition, in this embodiment, because it is a cotton crepe fabric woven with left and right twisted wefts of strong twisted cotton single yarn and warp of cotton single yarn not over twisted, it has a refreshing comfort that suits the Japanese climate. It is possible to provide a cotton material that is moderately tensioned and easy to use, and because it is a yukata that has been sewn from the cotton crepe fabric, it is comfortable to wear without being sticky even in a hot and humid environment due to warming. Yukata can be provided.

Embodiment 2. FIG.

  The manufacturing method of the cotton crepe fabric according to the present embodiment uses 30th to 60th cotton single yarn of 100% cotton. For example, 8.5 kg (12 parts) dyed and dried on the 30th cotton single yarn Gluing process to attach a weight of about 9.8 kg after sun-drying to a single cotton yarn, drying the glue, and spindle tube while applying tension to the dried single cotton yarn Twist the glued cotton single yarn while applying a constant tension (22.5g (6 匁) to 67.5g (18 匁) weight)) with the process of winding it around and the Hatcho twisting machine (wet) 1000-3000 times / m In the single-strand cotton process for obtaining right-twisted yarn and left-twisted yarn by twisting at the same time, and using the single-twisted cotton yarn of right-twisted yarn and left-twisted yarn obtained in the single cotton strong twist yarn step as weft, A weaving process using the obtained single cotton yarn as warp to alternately weave right and left twisted wefts to obtain a plain cotton weave fabric; And a processing step of washing off the glue cotton crepe fabric in obtained.

  In the step of drying the paste, in the cotton single yarn used as the warp, the cotton single yarn may be passed through a gluing machine to be uniformly glued and then automatically dried. Depending on the climatic conditions, after soaking in glue paste overnight, it can be naturally dried to strongly adhere the glue. As a result, the goodness of the yarn twisted by the Hatcho twisting machine makes the cotton crepe texture unique.

  If the yukata is sewed using the cotton crepe fabric that has undergone the above-mentioned processing steps, the yukata of the cotton crepe dough can be provided.

  Adhesive weight of 9.8kg after sun-drying is applied to 8.5kg (12 parts) cotton single yarn dyed and dried on 30th cotton single yarn of 100% cotton, and the glued cotton single yarn After drying, take up the cotton single yarn with glue on the spindle tube while applying tension, and apply the weight of 22.5g (6mm) to 67.5g (18mm) weight with the Hatcho twisting machine (wet). The attached cotton single yarn was twisted into an upper twist of a right twist and a left twist at a twist count of 2000 times / m to obtain each single cotton strong twist yarn of a right twist yarn and a left twist yarn. Next, using a 30th cotton single yarn of 100% cotton, it was glued and dried in the same manner as described above, and then wound around a spindle tube to obtain a warp of a glued cotton single yarn. Next, the wefts of the left and right strong twist yarns were alternately woven into the warp yarns to obtain plain cotton woven fabrics. Next, the glue of the cotton crepe cloth was washed off and the yukata was sewn.

Comparative example

  A conventional yukata made of 100% cotton was prepared. The commercial yukata was woven using a dobby weaving with a fabric width of 44 inches, using a 40th cotton single yarn + 21st cotton single yarn for warp and a 20th cotton single yarn for weft. Neither warp nor weft is twisted as a twisted yarn.

  About the yukata of the above embodiment and the conventional yukata of the comparative example, with regard to 5 men and 10 women as monitors, “sharpness”, “hem judgment”, “easy to wear” and “comfort” at the time of wearing An evaluation test was conducted. The results are shown in Table 1. Note that “−” indicates bad, “+” indicates slightly good, “++” indicates good, and “+++” indicates very good.

In addition, comfort was evaluated by a fabric breathability test. The measurement conditions were measured with a KES-F8-AP1 air permeability tester manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd. The measurement conditions were: measurement environment: 20 ° C., 65% RH, sample area: 6.28 cm ² , flow rate: 25.1 cm ³ / s. The larger the airflow resistance R (Kpa · s / m), the more fabric with poor air permeability.

  As a result of the air permeability test, the average value of the airflow resistance R is 0.025 and the standard deviation is 0.0009 in the method of the above-described embodiment, whereas the average value of the airflow resistance R is 0.029 and the standard deviation in the method of the conventional product. 0.0028.

  Furthermore, the texture of the yukata was measured using a KES measuring device manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd. The results are shown in Table 2. In the table, “2HB / B” is the ratio between the elastic component and the hysteresis component in bending deformation, and “2HG / G” is the ratio between the elastic component and the hysteresis component in shear deformation, and these values are large. It shows that it is easy to lose shape and wrinkle due to wearing. “MMD / SMD” is the ratio of the friction coefficient variation MMD to the surface roughness SMD, and the smaller the value, the smoother the surface touch. “WC / W” is the ratio of the compression work to the weight per unit area, and the larger the value, the softer the fiber fullness. “WC / T” is the ratio of compression energy to thickness, and the larger the value, the softer it is. “W / T” is the weight ratio per unit area with respect to the thickness, and the smaller the value, the greater the air content and the greater the plumpness.

  According to Table 1, “sharp feeling”, “hem judgment”, “easy to wear” and “comfort” are excellent in the embodiment, and from the breathability test, the embodiment is superior in comfort. I was able to confirm.

  Furthermore, according to Table 2, in the case of “2HB / B”, “2HG / G”, “MMD / SMD”, “WC / W” and “WC / T”, the method of the embodiment is larger than that of the conventional product. Value. Therefore, with "2HB / B" and "2HG / G", it can be confirmed that the form of the embodiment is excellent in form retention and tailored, and the index "MMD / SMD" indicating the roughness of the fabric surface, It can be confirmed that the surface of the fabric of the example is rougher and the frictional resistance is larger, and “WC / W” and “WC / T” indicating the bending resistance against fabric compression indicate how the example is. It was confirmed that it has a soft property against compression for the degree of fullness of the fiber. In addition, in “W / T”, the value of the method of the example was smaller than that of the conventional product. Therefore, it was confirmed that the yukata of the example had a plump feeling.

  That is, the yukata of the cotton crepe dough according to the present invention has excellent shape retention at the time of wearing, has a touch feeling that is peculiar to crepe, and is soft against the compression (for example, bending) of the dough. It was confirmed that it was not as hard as the touch when worn.

  The present invention is positioned as an introduction to kimono and can be used for various clothes that require refreshing comfort, including Yukata, which is considered promising to contribute to the expansion of the youth market.

  In addition, the present invention can be used as a cloth for Ise cotton or Kaigai cotton kimono that has recently been seen again.

Furthermore, since the wefts according to the present invention can be used in Kurume and cotton candy, etc., it can contribute to the recovery of traditional industrial cotton fabrics.

  Therefore, it can be said that the industrial applicability of the present invention is very high.

Claims (3)

Number twisted 100% single yarn cotton after gluing and drying of final twists was 100% cotton single strength left twisted twine twisted left number 1000-3000 turns / m twist 100% single yarn cotton after glue drying weft 1000 of the left-twist yarn with respect to the warp threads with 100% single yarn cotton not twisted after having glued dried warp with use of 100% single strength cotton final twists the right twisted twisted to the right twist at 3000 turns / m 100% cotton cotton noodle fabric made by weaving 100% cotton single strong twisted weft and 100% cotton single strong twisted weft of the right twisted yarn and weaving the warp and each weft . A garment formed by sewing the cotton crepe fabric according to claim 1. 100% cotton single yarn is glued and dried , then twisted 1000 to 3000 times / m and twisted to the left twist to make 100% cotton left twisted weft, 100% cotton single yarn is glued and dried 1000 to 3000 times / 100m cotton right-twisted weft by twisting right-twisted with m, and using the two types of wefts and the warp of 100% cotton single-twisted cotton not twisted and dried , 100% cotton single strong twist weft and 100% cotton single strong twist weft of the right twist yarn, weaving cotton crepe fabric with the warp and each weft, and then washing away the glue, Manufacturing method.