JP3860668B2 - Edge stitching tape and method for manufacturing edge stitching tape - Google Patents

Edge stitching tape and method for manufacturing edge stitching tape Download PDF

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Publication number
JP3860668B2
JP3860668B2 JP27274398A JP27274398A JP3860668B2 JP 3860668 B2 JP3860668 B2 JP 3860668B2 JP 27274398 A JP27274398 A JP 27274398A JP 27274398 A JP27274398 A JP 27274398A JP 3860668 B2 JP3860668 B2 JP 3860668B2
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tape
sewing
edge
thread
woven
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JP2000096425A (en
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世志弘 木村
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世志弘 木村
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Priority to DE69812047T priority patent/DE69812047T2/en
Priority to PT98122161T priority patent/PT919651E/en
Priority to EP98122161A priority patent/EP0919651B1/en
Priority to ES98122161T priority patent/ES2191248T3/en
Priority to TW087119635A priority patent/TW418375B/en
Priority to CNB981231098A priority patent/CN1143251C/en
Priority to US09/203,279 priority patent/US6119614A/en
Priority to HK99105408A priority patent/HK1020294A1/en
Publication of JP2000096425A publication Critical patent/JP2000096425A/en
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、両側縁の繊維溶融部を縫い糸で包み込んだ縁縫いテープまたはラベルに関し、さらにテープ素材の両側縁における繊維溶融部を正確且つ緻密に被覆する縁縫い方法に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
市販の繊維製品に縫着するポリエステル製の織ラベルは、細幅織機で帯状に織り上げ、さらに1枚ごとに寸断する。細幅織機による織成方法は、生産効率が低くてコストが高いという欠陥があるため、レピア織機などの高速織機を用いて合成繊維で広幅織物を織り上げ、この広幅織物を帯状にヒートカットする方法が現在の主流になっている。
【0003】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
広幅織物を帯状にヒートカットすると、該広幅織物の横糸を溶融切断し、得た織テープの両側縁に線状の繊維溶融部が生じる。この繊維溶融部は、ポリエステル繊維であると硬いガラス様を呈し、触感や外観において全体組織との違和感が著しい。この織テープから寸断したラベルは、衣服に縫着するために折り曲げると、両側縁の繊維溶融部が折れて溶融突片を生じる。この溶融突片が生じたラベルを衣服に縫着すると、肌着であれば溶融突片が使用者の肌に接触して痒く、着用時に不快感が生じ、皮膚を傷つけることがある。また、スキーウェアなどの外衣であれば、下に着込んだセーターや中衣シャツにほつれが生じたり毛羽立ってしまう。
【0004】
広幅織物のヒートカットで得た織ラベルについて、アパレルメーカーなどの多数のユーザーは繊維溶融部の発生防止を強く要求している。繊維溶融部の発生防止策として、既に、広幅織物を超音波で切断する方法が提案されているが、超音波切断によって繊維の溶融部分が軽減できても、切断個所がほつれやすくなってしまうという問題が残存する。一方、織ラベル両側縁をオーバーロックミシンで縫製して繊維溶融部を縫い糸で包み込むと、両側縁の繊維溶融部による突き出しが減少し、触感や外観に関する全体組織との違和感がかなり解消できる反面、オーバーロック縫製では、用いるウーリー糸と該ウーリー糸と絡み合う縫い糸との存在により、両側縁の縫い幅が太くなるうえにその部分が高く盛り上がり、織ラベルの縫着に際して不便であって美観的にも好ましくない。
【0005】
本発明の目的は、両側縁の縁縫い部が目立たずに美観的に優れ、且つ触感が良好な織テープを提供することである。
【0006】
本発明の他の目的は、両側縁の縁縫い部が目立たずに美観的に優れ、且つ触感が良好な織ラベルを提供することである。
【0007】
本発明の別の目的は、縫着時に折り曲げても突き出し片が発生せず、衣服着用者に不快感を与えない織ラベルを提供することである。
【0008】
本発明のさらに別の目的は、織テープを自動的且つ迅速に縁縫いし、両縁の繊維溶融部を縫い糸で密に包み込む縁縫い方法を提供することである。
【0009】
本発明のさらに別の目的は、織テープを縁縫いの際に引っ張ることがなく、繊維溶融部を包み込む単環縫いについて縫いむら、縫い糸の糸切れや毛羽立ちが発生しない縁縫い方法を提供することである。
【0010】
本発明に関するこれらおよびその他の目的、特徴ならびに利点は、以下の記載によって当業者においていっそう明白になるであろう。
【0011】
【課題を解決するための手段】
上記目的を達成するために、本発明に係る織テープは、広幅織物のヒートカットによって得る織テープであって、このヒートカットによって両側縁に形成された繊維溶融部と、テープ側縁の近辺に沿って糸環部の縫い糸がテープ側縁を越えながら横方向に続く単環縫いとを有する。この織テープでは、単環縫いを形成する1本の縫い糸がテープ側縁と交差しながら相互に密接することにより、該縫い糸で各側縁の繊維溶融部を被覆している。
【0012】
この織テープは、両側縁における単環縫いの縫い糸の傾きがテープ平面から見てほぼ中心線対称であると好ましい。この織テープを横方向に寸断すると、織ラベルを得ることができる。所望に応じて、この織ラベルは、収縮性糸を縫着時に折り曲げ個所となる部位に横糸として部分的に織り込み、織成後の収縮処理によって折り曲げ個所となる部位の両側縁をわずかに凹ませる。
【0013】
本発明の縁縫い方法では、両側縁に繊維溶融部を有するテープ素材を長手方向に向けて立てて送り込み、水平作動のミシン針と前後揺動のルーパとを備えるミシンにおいて、一方のテープ側縁の近辺に沿って縫い糸を前後に送りながら横方向に続く単環縫いを形成する。さらに、この縁縫い方法では、テープ素材を長手方向において反転し、水平作動のミシン針と前後揺動のルーパとを備える反対送りのミシンにおいて、他方のテープ側縁の近辺に沿って縫い糸を前後に送りながら横方向に続く単環縫いを形成する。
【0014】
この縁縫い方法において、ミシン針が押え金の先端部の下方を通過し、糸環部を引っかけたままのルーパが針尖端の前方位置まで下降する際に、該糸環部の縫い糸はテープ側縁と直接接触することなく、押え金の先端部の上面と直接接触すると好ましい。これによって、糸環部の縫い糸は強い引張り力が生じる締め付け時にテープ側縁と直接接触せず、テープの硬軟および厚みなどに関係なく、常に一定した単環縫いを形成する。
【0015】
好ましくは、送り込むテープ素材について、その上縁部を受け止める第1ガイドプレートと下縁部に接する第2ガイドプレートとで位置決めする。第1および第2ガイドプレートは、それぞれ上下方向に位置替え可能であり、第1ガイドプレートのU字部の内周面上方と第2ガイドプレートの水平部上面との垂直距離がテープ素材の横幅に相当する。
【0016】
所望に応じて、広幅織物を織成する際に、縫着時に折り曲げ個所となる部位に横糸として収縮性糸を部分的に織り込む。この広幅織物を帯状にヒートカットしてからテープ側縁の近辺に沿って単環縫いを形成し、得たテープを所定の収縮処理によって収縮性糸を縮ませて部分収縮させ、縫着時に折り曲げ個所となる部位の両側縁をわずかに凹ませる。
【0017】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明の織テープは、広幅織物のヒートカットによって形成された繊維溶融部が存在する両側縁の近辺に沿って、縫い糸をテープの前後に送りながら横方向に続く単環縫いを設け、単環縫いを形成する1本の縫い糸がテープ側縁と交差して相互に密接して各側縁の繊維溶融部を被覆する。両側縁における縫い糸は、単環縫いの傾きがテープ平面から見てほぼ中心線対称であると、テープやラベルの捻れを防ぐことができる。縁縫いしたテープは、帯状のままで織リボンとして使用しても、横方向に寸断して織ラベルとして使用してもよい。この縫い糸は、テープ素材の横糸と同じ細い糸を用いると、テープ全体の色調が統一できるので好ましい。このテープは、後処理の熱プレスによって平らにし、テープ全体をほぼ同じ厚みにすることも可能である。
【0018】
織ラベルの場合、縫着時に折り曲げ個所となる部位に横糸として部分的に織り込んだ収縮性糸を有していてもよく、この際には織成後の収縮処理によって折り曲げ個所となる部位の両側縁をわずかに凹ませる。この収縮性糸は、横糸として折り返し部分に幅広に織り込んでも、各折り曲げ個所だけに3〜5本織り込んでもよい。この収縮性糸は、加熱によって縮む熱収縮糸であっても、水または薬品を噴霧または含浸することで縮む水収縮糸や化学反応性収縮糸であってもよい。
【0019】
本発明の縁縫い方法では、繊維溶融部を有するテープ素材を長手方向に向けて立てて送り込み、一方のテープ側縁の近辺に沿って縫い糸を前後に送りながら横方向に続く単環縫いを形成する。この方法において、テープ素材の一側縁を単環縫いした後に、該テープ素材を長手方向において反転し、さらに他方のテープ側縁の近辺に沿って単環縫いを形成してもよい。
【0020】
好ましくは、ミシン針でテープ側縁に単環縫いする際に、該ミシン針は押え金の先端部の下方を通過し、糸環部の縫い糸はテープ側縁と直接接触することなく、押え金の先端部の上面と直接接触する。この結果、糸環部の縫い糸は、強い引張り力が生じる締め付け時にテープ側縁と直接接触せず、テープの硬軟および厚みなどに関係なく、常に一定した単環縫いを形成できる。送り込むテープ素材は、その上縁部を受け止める第1ガイドプレートと下縁部に接する第2ガイドプレートとで位置決めし、第1および第2ガイドプレートはそれぞれ上下方向に位置替え可能である。
【0021】
【実施例】
次に、本発明を実施例に基づいて説明するが、本発明は実施例に限定されるものではなく、本発明の精神と範囲を逸脱することなしに当業者が変形可能であることを理解されるべきである。
【0022】
図1または図2のテープ素材2は、公知のように広幅織物3(図15)を帯状にヒートカットして製造し、その両側縁5,5にヒートカットによる繊維溶融部(図示しない)が形成されている。この広幅織物3は、例えば、ポリエステル繊維糸、ナイロン繊維糸、綿糸などで織成され、該広幅織物には少なくともヒートカット部分に合成繊維糸を織り込む。本発明において、テープ素材2には、側縁5の近辺に沿って縫い糸7(図1)を前後に送りながら横方向に続く単環縫い8を設け、該縫い糸はテープ素材の横糸のように細いものでも、ウーリー糸のような太い糸でも使用可能である。一般に、縫い糸7は撚り糸からなるけれども、無撚糸も使用可能である。織リボンの場合には、縫い糸7の番手や色を変えてデザインに変化をつけてもよい。
【0023】
本発明で用いる片側縫い装置10は、図7に示すように1枚の矩形テーブル12上に全部材を載置し、該テーブルは下方設置のキャスタ(図示しない)によって移動自在である。テーブル12の前方中央には、公知の縁縫いミシン14を設置する。ミシン14の前方両側に第1および第2案内部材16,18を垂直にネジ止めし、両案内部材はミシン前面と平行に一直線状に配列する。第1案内部材16の後方には、芯立て棒と円座を有するテープ巻き載置台20を垂直に取り付け、且つ第2案内部材18の後方に水平案内部材22が位置する。また、上下1対のローラ24は、テーブル右側において水平案内部材22の後方に回転自在に設置する。
【0024】
縁縫いミシン14は、テーブル12の裏側に取り付けたマイコン制御のトルクモータ(図示しない)で駆動し、該ミシンの回転軸に固着したプーリ26およびベルト28を介して、プーリ30を固着したローラ24の回転軸32を同期回動する。ミシン14の前方中央には、回転可能な円形平面の突出台34を水平に取り付け、周面に刻み目を有する水平の押え円盤36を突出台34の周面と近接させて設置する(図9参照)。押え円盤36は、ミシン前面上方から前方斜め下向きに張り出したアーム38によって回転可能に支承する。図10に示すように、湾曲平面の押え金37は、突出台34の上方において近接設置し、該突出台の左側方から前方突出面まで延びてテープ素材2の側縁と接触し(図11参照)、突出台34および押え円盤36は矢印方向に間欠的に回動する。押え金37の上面は、図11のようにテープ素材2の側縁から約0.2mm上方に位置する。
【0025】
ミシン14において、ミシン針40は、図9に示すように突出台34の上面と近接させて水平に取り付け、図10の線40aで示すように押え円盤36上まで水平方向に往復作動し、この際に図11の位置40bで示すように押え金37の先端部の下方を通過している。一方、ルーパ42は、図8に示すように垂直バー44の下端に横向きに突出させた爪部材であり、該垂直バーはミシン前面上方から前方へ水平に突き出した揺動バー46に固着する。図9の一点鎖線から明らかなように、ルーパ42は、ミシン針40が前端まで前進して後退作動する直後に該針の針穴後方の位置42aまで下降し、針40の後退とともに上昇し、後端まで後退した際に針尖端の前方位置42bまで下降する。
【0026】
縫い糸7の糸巻き載置台48は、テーブル12(図7)の後方中央に配置し、ミシン14の後側に位置している。載置台48は、1組または2組以上の糸立て棒50と糸立て座52を有し、その上方に糸案内バー54を水平に取り付ける。ミシン針40に通す縫い糸7は、載置台48の糸巻きから糸案内バー54を越え、ミシン14の上方に設置した糸案内台組56を経て針40へ供給する。
【0027】
ミシン14の前面において、図8および図9に示すように、テープ素材2の上縁部を受け止めるU字部58を有する第1ガイドプレート60と、該テープ素材の下縁部に接する水平部62を有する第2ガイドプレート64とを取り付け、これらはほぼ垂直に隣接設置する。第1ガイドプレート60は、U字部58が突出台34と押え円盤36の左側直前において水平面で接線方向に位置するように取り付け(図10参照)、ナット66,66を緩めると上下方向に位置替えできる。また、第2ガイドプレート64は、押え円盤36の下方に位置し、クランプ68を調整して上下方向に位置替え可能である。第1ガイドプレート60のU字部58の内周面上方と第2ガイドプレート64の水平部62上面との垂直距離が、長手方向に立てて水平搬送するテープ素材2の横幅に相当する。
【0028】
図8に示す第1および第2案内部材16,18は、ミシン14の前方両側において、ガイドプレート60,64と一直線状になるように配列する。案内部材16,18は、それぞれ支持板70と水平板72との間に多数本の案内バー74を垂直且つ平行に設置し、各案内バー74と嵌合する貫通孔を設けた案内板76を支持板70と水平板72との間に取り付ける。案内板76は、走行するテープ素材2の横幅に応じて、両端面にねじ込んだ蝶ボルト78を締めて任意の水平位置で固定できる。テープ素材2は、案内バー74の周囲を左右交互に回り込みながら水平板72と案内板76との間を通過する。
【0029】
一方、水平案内部材22は、テーブル12上において第2案内部材18の後方に位置し、その上端面が案内部材18の水平板72と案内板76とのほぼ中間の高さになるように高さ位置を調整できる。水平案内部材22は、左右上端部の間に多数本の案内バー80を水平且つ平行に設置する。縁縫い後のテープ素材2は、第2案内部材18を出て縦向きから水平になり、案内バー80の周囲を上下交互に回り込みながら通過する。1対のローラ24,24は、図12のように上下方向に並べて配置し、水平案内部材22の後方において回転自在に設置する。1対のローラ24,24は、ミシン14と同期して間欠的に回動し、左右両側のボルト82で上方ローラを下方ローラへ押圧することで加圧力を調整できる。ローラ24の下方近傍において、テーブル12に開口84(図12)を設け、1対のローラ24,24で引き取ったテープ素材2をテーブル下方へ送り出し、複数個のローラを経てテープ素材2を巻き芯86で巻き取る。テープ素材2をローラ24,24から上下動自在なローラ88を経て巻芯86に巻き取る際に、ローラ88が下端位置に達するとリミットスイッチ(図示しない)が閉じてモータ89で巻芯86を回転し、一方、ローラ88が上端位置に達すると別のリミットスイッチが開いてモータ89の回転を停止する。所望に応じて、1対のローラ24は、縁縫い後のテープ素材2を熱プレスする加熱可能な金属ローラであってもよく、該テープ素材の表面が光らないようにローラ表面をローレット加工をしたりまたは筒状布を被せる。
【0030】
公知のように、テープ素材2は広幅織物3(図15)から多数本同時に製造され、広幅織物3の織成には紋織機構90(図16)を使用する。紋織機構90は、例えば高速運転のレピア織機,プロジェクタイル織機,エアージェット織機などの広幅織機92と、広幅織物を織る際に縦糸の開口運動を行なうジャカード機94とを組み合わせて構成し、織組織は平織、斜文織、朱子織のいずれでもよい。ジャカード機94では、紋紙のパターンに応じて広幅織機92が複雑な紋様を織り出しでき、織テープ部2aが帯状に並列した文字96(図3)や図柄などを有する広幅織物3を織成する。得た広幅織物3は、幅70〜260cmであり、広幅織機92のブレストビーム96の前方または後方に設置した切断装置によって、例えば案内糸97,97間を帯状にヒートカットする。この切断装置は、例えば、一定間隔を置いて並列に配置した多数本のナイフ98からなり、各ナイフはポリエステル繊維の融点よりも高温の約280℃に加熱する。ヒートカットした多数本のテープ素材2は、その両側縁に線状の繊維溶融部(図示しない)が発生しており、各テープ素材を広幅織機92においてそれぞれ巻芯100に巻き取る。
【0031】
得たテープ素材2の巻芯100は、図7の片側縫い装置10における載置台20の円座の上に載せ、該巻芯からテープ素材2を引き出して第1案内部材16で水平方向に搬送する。第1案内部材16は、長手方向に向けて立ったテープ素材2を縁縫いミシン14へ送り込み、第1ガイドプレート60のU字部58と第2ガイドプレート64の水平部62との間でテープ素材2を正確に位置決めし、突出台34と押え円盤36で間欠的に図7の矢印方向へ送る。テープ素材2について、図11において針位置40bから上方の部分が縁縫い幅hであり、テープ位置を適宜に上下させると縁縫い幅hを調整できる。
【0032】
図11を参照すると、ミシン針40が前進して停止中のテープ素材2に例えば点102aで突き刺さると、針穴に通した縫い糸7がミシン針40とともにテープ裏側から表側へ通過し、テープ表側で糸環部104が生じる。針40が図9の位置40cまで前進してから後退を開始した直後に、ルーパ42がテープ表側において針40の針穴後方の位置42aまで下降し、さらに若干旋回して糸環部104を引っかける。次に針40が後退してテープ素材2から抜け、テープ素材2は図11の矢印方向つまり図7の矢印方向へ距離dだけ間欠的に移動する。ルーパ42は、ミシン針40の後退とともに糸環部104を引っかけたまま上昇し、さらにテープ表側から裏側へ後退移動し、テープ裏側へ来ると下降を開始する。ミシン針40が、図9の実線位置まで後退すると、糸環部104を引っかけたままのルーパ42は針尖端の前方位置42bまで下降する。この際に、糸環部104の縫い糸7は、テープ素材2の側縁と直接接触することなく、押え金37の先端部の上面と直接接触する。ミシン針40が再び前進すると、ルーパ42は逆旋回して糸環部104から外れ、該針はテープ裏側でルーパ42で引き出された糸環部104の中を通過し、点102bでテープ素材2に突き刺さる。この結果、縫い糸7の糸環部104をテープ側縁に縫い付けることができる。ミシン針40の前進とともにルーパ42は上昇を開始し、前記と同様の作動によって位置40bで次の糸環部104を縫い付け、このためにテープ素材2が左方向へ距離dだけ移動すると、図示のように前の糸環部104が押さえ金37の先端部から外れて糸環部104の縫い糸7がテープ側縁と直接接触する。糸環部104の縫い糸7は強い引張り力が生じる締め付け時にテープ側縁と直接接触しないことにより、テープ素材2の硬軟および厚みなどに関係なく、縫い糸7の糸切れや毛羽立ちが生じず、常に一定した単環縫い8を形成することができる。以下、前記の操作を繰り返して縁縫いを行っていく。
【0033】
片側縫い装置10を通過したテープ素材2では、単環縫い8を形成する1本の縫い糸7がテープ側縁の繊維溶融部と交差し、且つその縫い目が重合せずに連続的に存在する。実際には、縫い糸7は図11のような空隙が生じることなく密接し、細い縫い糸であっても繊維溶融部を密に被覆する。片側縫い装置10について、テープ素材2の一方の側縁を縁縫いすると巻芯86(図12)に巻き取り、巻き取ったテープ素材2を再び装置10に通すことにより、図1に示すような両側縁を縁縫いした織テープ106を得る。織テープ106は、両側縁における単環縫い8の縫い糸7の傾きが平面から見てほぼ同じ方向であり、繰り返し模様であればラベル1枚ごとに寸断して織ラベルにしてもよい。この種のテープでは、細い縫い糸7を用いるうえに糸刺し点102a,102bなどが一直線状の1列だけであるから、縫い付け時のテープ位置を適宜に上下させて縁縫い幅hを容易に調整でき、縁縫い幅hを可能な限り狭くするとテープの美観を殆ど損なわない。織テープ106には、テープ素材2の横糸を縫い糸7として用いてもよく、テープ全体の色彩とデザインの統一をとることができる。
【0034】
図3に示す織ラベル110は、縁縫いしたテープ112(図2)から作製する。ラベル110において、両側縁における単環縫い114,115の縫い糸116の傾きは、ラベル平面から見てほぼ中心線対称であり、これによってラベル110の捻れを効果的に防ぐことができる。テープ112を得るには、テープ素材2を両側縫い装置118(図13)を1回走行させる。テープ112の各側縁において、単環縫い114,115を形成する1本の縫い糸116がテープ側縁の繊維溶融部と交差し、且つその縫い目が重合せずに連続的に存在し、細い縫い糸116でも繊維溶融部を密に被覆する。テープ112は、一連の模様ならばそのままテープとして使用してもよい。テープ112は、図2の一点鎖線の位置でラベル1枚ごとに横方向にヒートカットし、図3に示す織ラベル110を得る。ラベル110は、後続の折り曲げ工程において、図3の一点鎖線の位置でエンドホールドする。
【0035】
テープ112製造用の両側縫い装置118は、図7の装置10を2台組み合わせたような構造であるけれども、第1ミシン120ではテープ素材2を図13の矢印方向つまり左方向へ送るため、ミシン14(図7)とはテープ送り方向が反対である。また、第2ミシン122ではテープ素材2を図13の矢印方向へ送るため、ミシン14(図7)とテープ送り方向が同一である。第1ミシン120に関して、テープ巻芯の載置台124から出たテープ素材2は、垂直ローラ126,128および案内部材130を経てミシン120へ送られ、該案内部材130は案内部材16(図8)と同じ構造である。ミシン120を通過したテープ素材2は、垂直ローラ132,134を経て水平案内部材136と上下1対のローラ138を通り、案内部材136とローラ138は水平案内部材22とローラ24(図7)とほぼ同じ構造である。第2ミシン122に関しても前記のミシン14(図7)と同じ構造である。
【0036】
図14に示すように、ミシン120側のローラ138の下方において、テーブル140に開口142を設ける。1対のローラ138,138で引き取ったテープ素材2は、開口142を経てテーブル140の下方へ送り出し、両ローラから上下動自在なローラ144に回し掛けし、さらに上方の水平ローラ145と水平案内部材146を経て、ミシン122側の垂直ローラ148,150へ送り出す。ローラ144の昇降運動により、ミシン120と122との送り速度のずれを緩和できる。一方、ミシン122側では、引き取りローラ152の下方近傍において、テーブル154に開口156を設け、1対のローラ152で引き取ったテープ素材2をテーブル下方へ送り出し、前記の装置10と同様に、テープ素材2を上下動自在なローラ(図示しない)を経て巻芯に巻き取る。
【0037】
両側縫い装置118において、テープ素材2の巻芯158を載置台124の円座の上に載せ、該巻芯からテープ素材2を引き出して案内部材130で水平方向に搬送する。案内部材130により、長手方向に向けて立ったテープ素材2をミシン120へ送り込んで該テープ素材を正確に位置決めし、押え円盤160で間欠的に左方へ送りながら一方の単環縫い115(図2)を形成していく。片側を縁縫いしたテープ素材2は、案内部材136およびローラ138,138を経て水平方向に引き取り、さらにローラ144,145と案内部材146で水平方向に送り出す。テープ素材2は、垂直ローラ148において長手方向に向けて立ち、この際に単環縫い115は下側に位置する。さらに案内部材162により、テープ素材2をミシン122へ送り込み、押え円盤164で間欠的に右方へ送りながら他方の単環縫い114(図2)を形成していく。両側縁を縁縫いしたテープ112は、ローラ152,152で引き取り、テーブル154の下方で巻芯に巻き取る。
【0038】
図6に示すさらに別の織ラベル166では、折り返し個所167の両側縁168がわずかに凹んでいる。織ラベル166に寸断するテープ素材170には、横糸として収縮性糸172を部分的に織り込み、該収縮性糸は、図4のように折り返し個所167となる部位174に幅広に織り込んでも、各折り曲げ個所だけに3〜5本織り込んでもよい。用いる収縮性糸172は、例えば、約140℃で熱収縮する白色のポリエステル高収縮糸(東レ製)やナイロン糸、または水収縮するレーヨン糸などである。織ラベル166では、所定の収縮処理によって部分収縮させ、この凹み幅は、織ラベル166の素材や寸法によって異なるけれども、一般に0.1〜0.4mmであると好ましい。
【0039】
テープ素材170からラベル素材175(図5)を製造するには、縦糸および横糸ともに合成繊維糸である広幅織物176(図17)を織成する際に、縫着時に折り曲げ個所となる部位に横糸として収縮性糸172をラベル間隔をおいて部分的に織り込み、この後に広幅織物176をテープ部170aごとに帯状にヒートカットする。得たテープ素材170(図4)を両側縫い装置118に送り込み、該装置によって両側縁を縁縫いして単環縫い177,177を形成する。次に、両縁縫いしたテープ素材170を約140℃に加熱してプレスすると、図5に示すように折り曲げ部分167の両側縁が例えば約0.3mm凹む。所望に応じて、ラベル素材175にケミカル糊などで樹脂加工を行って形状を整える。ラベル素材175は、樹脂加工の後に別個のヒートカット装置(図示しない)でラベル1枚ごとに横方向にヒートカットし、各カット位置はマーク178の個所である。得た織ラベル166は、後続の折り曲げ工程でエンドホールドしてからプレスする。
【0040】
織ラベル166は、折り返し個所167の両側縁が凹むことによって繊維溶融部が下側に曲げられ、図6のように折り曲げ線180における両側縁の隅部182に繊維溶融部の突き出し片が生じない。また、折り返し個所167の幅が若干狭くなることにより、その部分を裏側に折り曲げた際にラベル本体の縁から露出しないので美観上好ましい。
【0041】
【発明の効果】
本発明に係る織テープは、広幅織物を帯状にヒートカットしただけの織テープに比べて、両側縁の縁縫い部が目立たずに美観的に優れ、しかも触感が良好になる。織テープから得た織ラベルは、縫着時に折り曲げても突き出し片が発生せず、衣服着用者に不快感を与えることがない。この織ラベルは、肌着に縫着すると肌着の良好な着用感が維持され、スキーウェアなどの外衣に縫着すると、下に着込んだセーターや中衣シャツに障害を与えることがない。
【0042】
本発明の縁縫い方法は、両縁の繊維溶融部を縫い糸で密に包み込むことで織テープの触感が良好であり、且つ縁縫い幅が狭くて美麗な織テープを得ることができ、しかもテープの横糸と同じ糸で縁縫いすると織テープの美観上いっそう好適である。この縁縫い方法では、織テープを縁縫いの際に引っ張ることがなく、単環縫いについて縫いむら、縫い糸の糸切れや毛羽立ちが発生しないので、織テープを自動的且つ迅速に縁縫いすることができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】 広幅織物をヒートカットし、両側縁を縁縫いした織テープの一例を示す概略平面図である。
【図2】 両側縁を縁縫いした別の織テープを示す概略平面図である。
【図3】 図2の織テープを寸断して得た縁縫いラベルを示す概略平面図である。
【図4】 熱収縮性糸を折り返し部分に織り込んださらに別の織テープを示す概略平面図である。
【図5】 図4の織テープに収縮処理を施した後の概略平面図である。
【図6】 図5の織テープから裁断した縁縫いラベルをエンドホールドした状態を示す斜視図である。
【図7】 織テープの側縁を片側ずつ縁縫いする装置を概略的に示す全体平面図である。
【図8】 図7の装置のミシン個所を拡大して示す部分正面図である。
【図9】 図8のA−A線に沿って拡大して示す部分側断面図であり、押え金などを省略している要部側断面図である。
【図10】 図9とほぼ同じ位置における部分平面図であり、押え金を加え且つ拡大率を変えて示す要部平面図である。
【図11】 縁縫いしたテープ側縁を裏側から示す拡大側面図であり、縁縫い状態を判りやすいようにデフォルメしている部分側面図である。
【図12】 図7の装置のテープ巻き取り個所を概略的に示す部分側断面図である。
【図13】 テープの両側縁を連続的に縁縫いする装置を概略的に示す全体平面図である。
【図14】 図13の装置において一方のミシン側から他方のミシン側へ送り込む個所を概略的に示す部分側断面図である。
【図15】 図1または図2の織テープを得るための広幅織物を例示する部分平面図である。
【図16】 広幅織物の織成に用いるジャカード付き織機を例示する概略正面図である。
【図17】 図4の織テープを得るための広幅織物を示す部分平面図である。
【符号の説明】
2 テープ素材
3 広幅織物
5,5 テープ側縁
7 縫い糸
8 単環縫い
10 片側縫い装置
14 縁縫いミシン
34 突出台
36 押え円盤
37 押え金
40 ミシン針
42 ルーパ
58 U字部
60 第1ガイドプレート
62 水平部
64 第2ガイドプレート
114,115 単環縫い
118 両側縫い装置
172 収縮性糸
[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to an edge stitching tape or label in which fiber melted portions on both side edges are wrapped with a sewing thread, and further to an edge stitching method for accurately and densely covering fiber melted portions on both side edges of a tape material.
[0002]
[Prior art]
A polyester woven label sewn on a commercially available textile product is woven into a strip with a narrow loom and further cut into pieces. The weaving method using a narrow loom has a defect that the production efficiency is low and the cost is high, so a high-speed loom such as a rapier loom is used to weave a wide fabric with synthetic fibers and heat cut this wide fabric into a strip shape Has become the current mainstream.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
When the wide woven fabric is heat-cut into a band shape, the weft yarn of the wide woven fabric is melted and cut, and linear fiber melted portions are formed on both side edges of the obtained woven tape. When the fiber melted part is a polyester fiber, it exhibits a hard glass-like shape, and the feeling of touch and appearance are very uncomfortable with the entire structure. When the label cut from the woven tape is folded to sew on a garment, the fiber melted portions on both side edges are broken to form a melted protrusion. When the label having the molten protrusion is sewn on the clothes, the molten protrusion will come into contact with the user's skin if it is an underwear, which may cause discomfort and wear the skin. In the case of outerwear such as ski wear, the sweater or inner shirt worn underneath may become frayed or fuzzy.
[0004]
With regard to woven labels obtained by heat-cutting wide woven fabrics, many users such as apparel manufacturers are strongly demanding prevention of fiber melted portions. As a measure for preventing the occurrence of a fiber melted part, a method of cutting a wide woven fabric with ultrasonic waves has already been proposed, but even if the melted part of the fiber can be reduced by ultrasonic cutting, the cutting part is likely to fray. The problem remains. On the other hand, if both sides of the woven label are sewn with an overlock sewing machine and the fiber melted part is wrapped with sewing thread, the protrusion due to the fiber melted part on both sides of the edge is reduced, and the sense of incongruity with the overall structure regarding touch and appearance can be considerably eliminated, In overlock sewing, due to the presence of the wooly thread used and the sewing thread intertwined with the wooly thread, the width of the stitches on both side edges becomes thicker, and the portion is raised, which is inconvenient when sewing woven labels and is also aesthetically pleasing. It is not preferable.
[0005]
An object of the present invention is to provide a woven tape that is excellent in aesthetics and has good tactile sensation, with the edge stitches on both side edges being inconspicuous.
[0006]
Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven label that is aesthetically pleasing and has a good tactile sensation, with the edge stitches on both side edges being inconspicuous.
[0007]
Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven label which does not generate protruding pieces even when bent during sewing and does not cause discomfort to the wearer.
[0008]
Still another object of the present invention is to provide an edge stitching method in which a woven tape is edge-sewn automatically and quickly and the fiber melted portions of both edges are tightly wrapped with a sewing thread.
[0009]
Still another object of the present invention is to provide an edge stitching method that does not cause woven tape to be pulled at the time of edge stitching, and does not cause sewing unevenness, thread breakage or fluffing of a single ring stitch that wraps a fiber melted portion. It is.
[0010]
These and other objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description.
[0011]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to achieve the above object, the woven tape according to the present invention is a woven tape obtained by heat-cutting a wide woven fabric, and the fiber melted portion formed on both side edges by this heat-cut and the vicinity of the tape side edges. Along with the single ring stitch, the sewing thread of the thread ring portion extends laterally while passing over the side edge of the tape. In this woven tape, one sewing thread forming a single ring stitch is in close contact with the tape side edge while crossing the tape side edge, so that the fiber melted portion of each side edge is covered with the sewing thread.
[0012]
In this woven tape, it is preferable that the inclination of the single-ring stitching thread on both side edges is substantially centerline symmetric when viewed from the tape plane. When this woven tape is cut in the transverse direction, a woven label can be obtained. If desired, this woven label partially weaves the shrinkable yarn as a weft thread in the part that becomes the folding part at the time of sewing, and slightly dents both side edges of the part that becomes the folding part by the shrinking process after weaving .
[0013]
In the edge stitching method of the present invention, in a sewing machine comprising a horizontally-operated sewing needle and a forward / backward swing looper, a tape material having fiber melted portions on both side edges is sent upright in the longitudinal direction. A single ring stitch is formed which continues in the lateral direction while feeding the sewing thread back and forth along the vicinity of the thread. Further, in this edge stitching method, the tape material is reversed in the longitudinal direction, and the sewing thread is moved back and forth along the vicinity of the other side edge of the tape in the reverse feed sewing machine having a horizontal operation sewing needle and a forward and backward swing looper. A single ring stitch that continues in the lateral direction is formed while being fed to the sewing machine.
[0014]
In this edge stitching method, when the sewing needle passes under the tip of the presser foot and the looper with the thread ring hooked is lowered to the front position of the needle tip, the thread on the thread ring part is It is preferable to directly contact the top surface of the presser foot without directly contacting the edge. As a result, the sewing thread in the thread ring portion does not come into direct contact with the side edge of the tape during tightening when a strong tensile force is generated, and always forms a single ring stitch that is constant regardless of the hardness and thickness of the tape.
[0015]
Preferably, the tape material to be fed is positioned by a first guide plate that receives the upper edge portion and a second guide plate that contacts the lower edge portion. The first and second guide plates can be repositioned in the vertical direction, and the vertical distance between the inner peripheral surface of the U-shaped portion of the first guide plate and the upper surface of the horizontal portion of the second guide plate is the width of the tape material. It corresponds to.
[0016]
If desired, when weaving a wide woven fabric, a shrinkable yarn is partially woven as a weft in a portion that becomes a bent portion at the time of sewing. This wide woven fabric is heat-cut into a band shape, and then a single-ring stitch is formed along the vicinity of the side edge of the tape, and the resulting tape is partially contracted by shrinking the shrinkable yarn by a predetermined shrinkage treatment and bent at the time of sewing. Slightly indent both side edges of the part to be the place.
[0017]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The woven tape of the present invention is provided with a single ring stitch that continues in the lateral direction while feeding a sewing thread to the front and back of the tape along the vicinity of both side edges where a fiber melted portion formed by heat cutting of a wide woven fabric exists. One sewing thread forming the stitches crosses the tape side edges and is in close contact with each other to cover the fiber melted portion of each side edge. The sewing thread at the both side edges can prevent twisting of the tape and the label if the inclination of the single ring stitch is substantially centerline symmetric when viewed from the tape plane. The edge-sewn tape may be used as a woven ribbon in the form of a band, or may be cut in the lateral direction and used as a woven label. As the sewing thread, it is preferable to use the same thin thread as the weft thread of the tape material because the color tone of the entire tape can be unified. The tape can be flattened by post-processing hot pressing, and the entire tape can be made approximately the same thickness.
[0018]
In the case of a woven label, it may have a shrinkable yarn that is partially woven as a weft thread at the part that becomes the folding part at the time of sewing, and in this case, both sides of the part that becomes the folding part by the shrinking treatment after weaving Make the edge slightly concave. This shrinkable yarn may be woven in the folded portion as a weft, or may be woven in 3 to 5 pieces only at each folding portion. The shrinkable yarn may be a heat shrinkable yarn that shrinks by heating, or may be a water shrinkable yarn or a chemically reactive shrinkable yarn that shrinks when sprayed or impregnated with water or chemicals.
[0019]
In the edge stitching method of the present invention, a tape material having a fiber melted portion is sent upright in the longitudinal direction, and a single ring stitch is formed which continues in the lateral direction while feeding a sewing thread back and forth along the vicinity of one tape side edge. To do. In this method, after one side edge of the tape material is single-ring stitched, the tape material may be reversed in the longitudinal direction, and a single ring stitch may be formed along the vicinity of the other tape side edge.
[0020]
Preferably, when single ring sewing is performed on the side edge of the tape with the sewing needle, the sewing needle passes under the tip of the presser foot, and the sewing thread of the thread ring portion does not come into direct contact with the side edge of the tape. It is in direct contact with the top surface of the tip. As a result, the sewing thread in the thread ring portion does not come into direct contact with the side edge of the tape at the time of tightening when a strong tensile force is generated, and can always form a single ring stitch that is constant regardless of the hardness and softness of the tape. The tape material to be fed is positioned by a first guide plate that receives the upper edge portion thereof and a second guide plate that is in contact with the lower edge portion, and the first and second guide plates can be changed in the vertical direction.
[0021]
【Example】
EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described based on examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the examples, and it is understood that those skilled in the art can make modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. It should be.
[0022]
The tape material 2 of FIG. 1 or FIG. 2 is manufactured by heat-cutting a wide woven fabric 3 (FIG. 15) in a strip shape as is well known, and fiber melting portions (not shown) by heat cut are formed on both side edges 5 and 5 thereof. Is formed. The wide woven fabric 3 is woven with, for example, polyester fiber yarn, nylon fiber yarn, cotton yarn or the like, and synthetic fiber yarn is woven into at least a heat cut portion of the wide woven fabric. In the present invention, the tape material 2 is provided with a single ring stitch 8 that continues in the lateral direction while feeding the sewing thread 7 (FIG. 1) back and forth along the vicinity of the side edge 5, and the sewing thread is like a weft thread of the tape material. Either thin or thick thread such as woolly thread can be used. In general, the sewing thread 7 is a twisted thread, but a non-twisted thread can also be used. In the case of a woven ribbon, the design may be changed by changing the count or color of the sewing thread 7.
[0023]
As shown in FIG. 7, the one-side sewing apparatus 10 used in the present invention places all members on a single rectangular table 12, and the table is movable by a caster (not shown) installed below. A known edge stitch machine 14 is installed at the front center of the table 12. The first and second guide members 16 and 18 are screwed vertically to both front sides of the sewing machine 14, and both guide members are arranged in a straight line parallel to the front surface of the sewing machine. A tape mount 20 having a centering rod and a circular seat is vertically attached behind the first guide member 16, and a horizontal guide member 22 is located behind the second guide member 18. Further, the pair of upper and lower rollers 24 are rotatably installed behind the horizontal guide member 22 on the right side of the table.
[0024]
The edge sewing machine 14 is driven by a microcomputer-controlled torque motor (not shown) attached to the back side of the table 12, and a roller 24 having a pulley 30 fixed thereto via a pulley 26 and a belt 28 fixed to the rotating shaft of the sewing machine. The rotation shaft 32 is rotated synchronously. At the front center of the sewing machine 14, a rotatable circular flat protruding table 34 is horizontally mounted, and a horizontal presser disk 36 having a notch on the peripheral surface is set close to the peripheral surface of the protruding table 34 (see FIG. 9). ). The presser disc 36 is rotatably supported by an arm 38 projecting diagonally forward and downward from the upper front of the sewing machine. As shown in FIG. 10, the presser foot 37 having a curved plane is installed close to the upper side of the protruding base 34, extends from the left side of the protruding base to the front protruding surface, and contacts the side edge of the tape material 2 (FIG. 11). See), the protruding base 34 and the presser disc 36 rotate intermittently in the direction of the arrow. The upper surface of the presser foot 37 is positioned about 0.2 mm above the side edge of the tape material 2 as shown in FIG.
[0025]
In the sewing machine 14, the sewing needle 40 is mounted horizontally close to the upper surface of the protruding base 34 as shown in FIG. 9, and reciprocates horizontally up to the presser disk 36 as shown by a line 40 a in FIG. 10. At this time, as shown by a position 40b in FIG. On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 8, the looper 42 is a claw member that projects laterally from the lower end of the vertical bar 44, and the vertical bar is fixed to a swinging bar 46 that projects horizontally from the upper front of the sewing machine to the front. As is apparent from the one-dot chain line in FIG. 9, the looper 42 descends to a position 42a behind the needle hole of the needle immediately after the sewing needle 40 advances to the front end and moves backward, and rises with the backward movement of the needle 40. When retracted to the rear end, the needle tip descends to the front position 42b.
[0026]
The thread winding platform 48 of the sewing thread 7 is disposed at the rear center of the table 12 (FIG. 7) and is located on the rear side of the sewing machine 14. The mounting table 48 has one or two or more sets of a thread stand 50 and a thread stand 52, and a thread guide bar 54 is horizontally attached thereon. The sewing thread 7 to be passed through the sewing needle 40 is supplied to the needle 40 from the thread winding of the mounting table 48, over the thread guide bar 54, and through the thread guide table assembly 56 installed above the sewing machine 14.
[0027]
8 and 9, on the front surface of the sewing machine 14, a first guide plate 60 having a U-shaped portion 58 for receiving the upper edge portion of the tape material 2 and a horizontal portion 62 in contact with the lower edge portion of the tape material. And a second guide plate 64 having a vertical position, which are adjacent to each other substantially vertically. The first guide plate 60 is mounted so that the U-shaped portion 58 is positioned tangentially on the horizontal plane immediately before the left side of the protruding base 34 and the presser disc 36 (see FIG. 10), and when the nuts 66 and 66 are loosened, the first guide plate 60 is positioned vertically. It can be changed. The second guide plate 64 is positioned below the presser disk 36 and can be repositioned in the vertical direction by adjusting the clamp 68. The vertical distance between the upper part of the inner peripheral surface of the U-shaped portion 58 of the first guide plate 60 and the upper surface of the horizontal portion 62 of the second guide plate 64 corresponds to the lateral width of the tape material 2 that is horizontally conveyed in the longitudinal direction.
[0028]
The first and second guide members 16 and 18 shown in FIG. 8 are arranged so as to be aligned with the guide plates 60 and 64 on both front sides of the sewing machine 14. Each of the guide members 16 and 18 includes a guide plate 76 in which a large number of guide bars 74 are installed vertically and in parallel between the support plate 70 and the horizontal plate 72, and through holes that are fitted to the guide bars 74 are provided. It is attached between the support plate 70 and the horizontal plate 72. The guide plate 76 can be fixed at an arbitrary horizontal position by tightening butterfly bolts 78 screwed into both end faces according to the width of the tape material 2 that travels. The tape material 2 passes between the horizontal plate 72 and the guide plate 76 while turning around the guide bar 74 alternately left and right.
[0029]
On the other hand, the horizontal guide member 22 is positioned behind the second guide member 18 on the table 12, and the upper end surface of the horizontal guide member 22 is high so as to be approximately halfway between the horizontal plate 72 and the guide plate 76 of the guide member 18. The position can be adjusted. The horizontal guide member 22 installs a large number of guide bars 80 horizontally and parallel between the upper left and right ends. After the edge sewing, the tape material 2 exits the second guide member 18 and becomes horizontal from the vertical direction, and passes around the guide bar 80 while turning around the top and bottom alternately. The pair of rollers 24, 24 are arranged side by side in the vertical direction as shown in FIG. 12 and are installed rotatably behind the horizontal guide member 22. The pair of rollers 24, 24 rotate intermittently in synchronization with the sewing machine 14, and the pressing force can be adjusted by pressing the upper roller to the lower roller with the bolts 82 on the left and right sides. In the vicinity of the lower part of the roller 24, an opening 84 (FIG. 12) is provided in the table 12, and the tape material 2 picked up by the pair of rollers 24, 24 is sent out to the lower part of the table. Take up at 86. When winding the tape material 2 from the rollers 24 and 24 onto the core 86 via the roller 88 that can move up and down, when the roller 88 reaches the lower end position, a limit switch (not shown) is closed and the motor 89 causes the core 86 to move. On the other hand, when the roller 88 reaches the upper end position, another limit switch is opened and the rotation of the motor 89 is stopped. If desired, the pair of rollers 24 may be heatable metal rollers that heat-press the tape material 2 after edge stitching, and knurling the roller surface so that the surface of the tape material does not shine. Or cover with a cylindrical cloth.
[0030]
As is well known, a large number of tape materials 2 are manufactured simultaneously from the wide woven fabric 3 (FIG. 15), and the weaving mechanism 90 (FIG. 16) is used for weaving the wide woven fabric 3. The weaving mechanism 90 is configured by combining, for example, a wide loom 92 such as a high-speed rapier loom, a projectile loom, an air jet loom, and a jacquard machine 94 that performs warp opening movement when weaving a wide fabric. The organization may be any of plain weave, oblique weave, and satin weave. In the jacquard machine 94, the wide loom 92 can weave a complicated pattern according to the pattern of the paper pattern, and the wide woven fabric 3 having the letters 96 (FIG. 3) or the design with the woven tape portion 2a arranged in a strip shape is woven. To do. The obtained wide woven fabric 3 has a width of 70 to 260 cm, and is heat-cut between the guide yarns 97 and 97, for example, in a band shape by a cutting device installed in front of or behind the breast beam 96 of the wide loom 92. This cutting apparatus is composed of, for example, a plurality of knives 98 arranged in parallel at regular intervals, and each knife is heated to about 280 ° C., which is higher than the melting point of the polyester fiber. A large number of heat-cut tape materials 2 have linear fiber melted portions (not shown) on both side edges, and each tape material is wound around a core 100 by a wide loom 92.
[0031]
The obtained core 100 of the tape material 2 is placed on a circular seat of the mounting table 20 in the one-side sewing device 10 of FIG. 7, and the tape material 2 is pulled out from the core and conveyed in the horizontal direction by the first guide member 16. To do. The first guide member 16 feeds the tape material 2 standing in the longitudinal direction to the edge sewing machine 14, and the tape between the U-shaped portion 58 of the first guide plate 60 and the horizontal portion 62 of the second guide plate 64. The material 2 is accurately positioned and is intermittently sent in the direction of the arrow in FIG. 7 by the protruding base 34 and the presser disc 36. For the tape material 2, the upper portion from the needle position 40b in FIG. 11 is the edge stitching width h, and the edge stitching width h can be adjusted by appropriately moving the tape position up and down.
[0032]
Referring to FIG. 11, when the sewing needle 40 moves forward and pierces the stopped tape material 2 at, for example, a point 102a, the sewing thread 7 passed through the needle hole passes from the back side of the tape together with the sewing needle 40 to the front side, and on the front side of the tape. A thread ring portion 104 is generated. Immediately after the needle 40 advances to the position 40c in FIG. 9 and starts to retract, the looper 42 descends to a position 42a behind the needle hole of the needle 40 on the tape front side, and further turns to catch the thread ring portion 104. . Next, the needle 40 moves backward and comes out of the tape material 2, and the tape material 2 moves intermittently by a distance d in the direction of the arrow in FIG. 11, that is, in the direction of the arrow in FIG. The looper 42 ascends while the thread needle portion 40 is hooked with the retraction of the sewing needle 40, further moves backward from the tape front side to the back side, and starts to descend when it comes to the tape back side. When the sewing needle 40 is retracted to the position indicated by the solid line in FIG. 9, the looper 42 with the thread ring portion 104 hooked is lowered to the front position 42b of the needle tip. At this time, the sewing thread 7 of the thread ring portion 104 is in direct contact with the upper surface of the front end portion of the presser foot 37 without being in direct contact with the side edge of the tape material 2. When the sewing machine needle 40 moves forward again, the looper 42 rotates backward to disengage from the thread ring part 104, and the needle passes through the thread ring part 104 pulled out by the looper 42 on the back side of the tape. Pierce. As a result, the thread ring portion 104 of the sewing thread 7 can be sewn to the side edge of the tape. As the sewing machine needle 40 advances, the looper 42 starts to rise, and the next thread ring portion 104 is sewn at the position 40b by the same operation as described above. Thus, the previous thread ring portion 104 is disengaged from the tip of the presser foot 37 and the sewing thread 7 of the thread ring portion 104 is in direct contact with the side edge of the tape. The sewing thread 7 of the thread ring portion 104 does not come into direct contact with the side edge of the tape during tightening when a strong tensile force is generated, so that the sewing thread 7 does not break or fluff regardless of the hardness or softness of the tape material 2 and is always constant. A single ring stitch 8 can be formed. Hereinafter, the above operation is repeated to perform edge stitching.
[0033]
In the tape material 2 that has passed through the one-side stitching device 10, one sewing thread 7 that forms the single-ring stitch 8 intersects the fiber melted portion on the side edge of the tape, and the seam continuously exists without overlapping. Actually, the sewing thread 7 is in close contact with the gap as shown in FIG. 11, and even the thin sewing thread covers the fiber melted portion densely. With respect to the one-side sewing device 10, when one side edge of the tape material 2 is sewed, the tape material 2 is wound around the core 86 (FIG. 12), and the wound tape material 2 is passed through the device 10 again, as shown in FIG. A woven tape 106 having both side edges sewn is obtained. In the woven tape 106, the inclination of the sewing thread 7 of the single ring stitch 8 on both side edges is substantially the same as seen from the plane, and if it is a repetitive pattern, it may be cut for each label to form a woven label. In this type of tape, since the thin sewing thread 7 is used and the thread piercing points 102a and 102b are only one line in a straight line, the edge sewing width h can be easily increased by appropriately raising and lowering the tape position at the time of sewing. It can be adjusted, and if the edge sewing width h is made as narrow as possible, the aesthetic appearance of the tape is hardly impaired. For the woven tape 106, the weft thread of the tape material 2 may be used as the sewing thread 7, and the color and design of the entire tape can be unified.
[0034]
The woven label 110 shown in FIG. 3 is produced from the edge-stitched tape 112 (FIG. 2). In the label 110, the inclination of the sewing thread 116 of the single-ring stitches 114 and 115 at both side edges is substantially centerline symmetric when viewed from the label plane, thereby effectively preventing the label 110 from being twisted. In order to obtain the tape 112, the tape material 2 is run once by the double-side stitching device 118 (FIG. 13). At each side edge of the tape 112, one sewing thread 116 forming the single ring stitches 114 and 115 intersects the fiber melted portion of the tape side edge, and the seam continuously exists without overlapping, and the thin sewing thread 116 also densely coats the fiber melt. The tape 112 may be used as it is as long as it is a series of patterns. The tape 112 is heat-cut in the horizontal direction for each label at the position of the alternate long and short dash line in FIG. 2 to obtain the woven label 110 shown in FIG. The label 110 is end-held at the position of the one-dot chain line in FIG. 3 in the subsequent folding process.
[0035]
The double-side stitching device 118 for manufacturing the tape 112 has a structure in which two devices 10 in FIG. 7 are combined. However, the first sewing machine 120 feeds the tape material 2 in the direction of the arrow in FIG. 14 (FIG. 7) is opposite to the tape feeding direction. Further, since the second sewing machine 122 feeds the tape material 2 in the direction of the arrow in FIG. 13, the tape feeding direction is the same as that of the sewing machine 14 (FIG. 7). With respect to the first sewing machine 120, the tape material 2 that has come out of the tape core mounting table 124 is sent to the sewing machine 120 through the vertical rollers 126 and 128 and the guide member 130, and the guide member 130 is guided to the guide member 16 (FIG. 8). Is the same structure. The tape material 2 that has passed through the sewing machine 120 passes through the horizontal guide member 136 and a pair of upper and lower rollers 138 through vertical rollers 132 and 134, and the guide member 136 and the roller 138 include the horizontal guide member 22 and the roller 24 (FIG. 7). The structure is almost the same. The second sewing machine 122 has the same structure as that of the sewing machine 14 (FIG. 7).
[0036]
As shown in FIG. 14, an opening 142 is provided in the table 140 below the roller 138 on the sewing machine 120 side. The tape material 2 picked up by the pair of rollers 138 and 138 is sent to the lower side of the table 140 through the opening 142, is swung around the roller 144 that can move up and down from both rollers, and further, the upper horizontal roller 145 and the horizontal guide member 146, and sent to the vertical rollers 148 and 150 on the sewing machine 122 side. Due to the up-and-down movement of the roller 144, the deviation of the feed speed between the sewing machines 120 and 122 can be reduced. On the other hand, on the sewing machine 122 side, an opening 156 is provided in the table 154 near the lower side of the take-up roller 152, and the tape material 2 taken up by the pair of rollers 152 is sent to the lower side of the table. 2 is wound around a core through a roller (not shown) that can move up and down.
[0037]
In the double-side stitching device 118, the core 158 of the tape material 2 is placed on the circular seat of the mounting table 124, and the tape material 2 is pulled out from the core and conveyed in the horizontal direction by the guide member 130. The guide member 130 feeds the tape material 2 standing in the longitudinal direction to the sewing machine 120 to accurately position the tape material, and intermittently feeds the tape material to the left by the presser disk 160 while one of the single ring stitches 115 (FIG. 2) will be formed. The tape material 2 with one side stitched is taken out in the horizontal direction through the guide member 136 and the rollers 138 and 138, and further fed out in the horizontal direction by the rollers 144 and 145 and the guide member 146. The tape material 2 stands in the longitudinal direction in the vertical roller 148, and at this time, the single ring stitch 115 is positioned on the lower side. Further, the tape material 2 is fed to the sewing machine 122 by the guide member 162, and the other single-ring stitch 114 (FIG. 2) is formed while intermittently feeding it to the right by the presser disk 164. The tape 112 having the edges sewn on both sides is taken up by the rollers 152 and 152 and wound around the core below the table 154.
[0038]
In yet another woven label 166 shown in FIG. 6, the side edges 168 of the turn-up point 167 are slightly recessed. The tape material 170 that is cut into the woven label 166 is partially woven with a shrinkable yarn 172 as a weft, and the shrinkable yarn can be folded into each folded portion 174 as shown in FIG. 3-5 pieces may be woven into only the place. The shrinkable yarn 172 to be used is, for example, a white polyester highly shrinkable yarn (manufactured by Toray), a nylon yarn, or a rayon yarn that is water-shrinkable. The woven label 166 is partially shrunk by a predetermined shrinking process, and the width of the dent varies depending on the material and dimensions of the woven label 166, but is generally preferably 0.1 to 0.4 mm.
[0039]
In order to manufacture the label material 175 (FIG. 5) from the tape material 170, when weaving the wide woven fabric 176 (FIG. 17), which is a synthetic fiber yarn for both warp and weft, weft yarn is used at a portion that becomes a bent portion at the time of sewing. As described above, the shrinkable yarn 172 is partially woven at a label interval, and then the wide fabric 176 is heat-cut into a strip shape for each tape portion 170a. The obtained tape material 170 (FIG. 4) is fed to the both-side stitching device 118, and the both-side edges are stitched by the device to form single-ring stitches 177 and 177. Next, when the tape material 170 sewed on both edges is heated to about 140 ° C. and pressed, both side edges of the bent portion 167 are recessed, for example, by about 0.3 mm as shown in FIG. If desired, the label material 175 is processed with resin using chemical glue or the like to adjust the shape. The label material 175 is heat-cut in the horizontal direction for each label by a separate heat-cut device (not shown) after resin processing, and each cut position is a mark 178 location. The obtained woven label 166 is end-held in a subsequent bending process and then pressed.
[0040]
In the woven label 166, the fiber melted portion is bent downward by denting both side edges of the folded portion 167, and no protruding piece of the fiber melted portion is generated at the corner 182 of the both side edges in the folding line 180 as shown in FIG. . Further, since the width of the folded portion 167 is slightly narrowed, it is not exposed from the edge of the label body when the portion is folded back, which is preferable from the aesthetic point of view.
[0041]
【The invention's effect】
The woven tape according to the present invention is more aesthetically pleasing and has a better tactile sensation than the woven tape obtained by heat-cutting a wide woven fabric in a band shape, with the edge stitches on both side edges being inconspicuous. Even if the woven label obtained from the woven tape is bent at the time of sewing, no protruding piece is generated, and the wearer does not feel uncomfortable. When the woven label is sewn on the underwear, a good feeling of the underwear is maintained. When the woven label is sewn on an outer garment such as ski wear, the sweater or inner shirt worn underneath is not damaged.
[0042]
The edge stitching method of the present invention can provide a beautiful woven tape having a good edge feel and a narrow edge stitching width by tightly wrapping the fiber melted portions of both edges with sewing threads. It is more preferable in terms of the aesthetics of the woven tape to sew with the same thread as the weft. In this edge stitching method, the woven tape is not pulled at the time of edge stitching, and there is no sewing irregularity, thread breakage or fluffing of the sewing thread, so that the woven tape can be automatically and quickly edge-sewn. it can.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic plan view showing an example of a woven tape obtained by heat-cutting a wide woven fabric and sewing both edges.
FIG. 2 is a schematic plan view showing another woven tape having both side edges sewn.
FIG. 3 is a schematic plan view showing an edge stitching label obtained by cutting the woven tape of FIG. 2;
FIG. 4 is a schematic plan view showing still another woven tape in which a heat-shrinkable yarn is woven into a folded portion.
FIG. 5 is a schematic plan view after the shrinkage process is performed on the woven tape of FIG. 4;
6 is a perspective view showing a state in which an edge-sewn label cut from the woven tape of FIG. 5 is end-held. FIG.
FIG. 7 is an overall plan view schematically showing an apparatus for sewing a side edge of a woven tape one side at a time.
8 is an enlarged partial front view showing a sewing machine part of the apparatus shown in FIG. 7;
9 is a partial side cross-sectional view showing an enlarged view along the line AA in FIG. 8, and is a main-part side cross-sectional view omitting a presser foot and the like.
FIG. 10 is a partial plan view at substantially the same position as FIG. 9, and is a plan view of the main part with a presser foot added and the enlargement ratio changed.
FIG. 11 is an enlarged side view showing a side edge of the tape that has been edge-sewn from the back side, and is a partial side view that is deformed so that the state of edge sewing can be easily understood.
12 is a partial side sectional view schematically showing a tape winding portion of the apparatus of FIG.
FIG. 13 is an overall plan view schematically showing a device for continuously sewing both side edges of a tape.
14 is a partial side cross-sectional view schematically showing a portion to be fed from one sewing machine side to the other sewing machine side in the apparatus of FIG. 13; FIG.
FIG. 15 is a partial plan view illustrating a wide woven fabric for obtaining the woven tape of FIG. 1 or FIG. 2;
FIG. 16 is a schematic front view illustrating a loom with a jacquard used for weaving a wide fabric.
FIG. 17 is a partial plan view showing a wide woven fabric for obtaining the woven tape of FIG. 4;
[Explanation of symbols]
2 Tape material
3 Wide fabric
5,5 Tape side edge
7 Sewing thread
8 Single ring sewing
10 One-side sewing device
14 Edge sewing machine
34 Projection stand
36 Presser disc
37 Presser foot
40 sewing needles
42 Looper
58 U-shaped part
60 First guide plate
62 Horizontal
64 Second guide plate
114,115 Single ring sewing
118 Double-side stitching device
172 Shrinkable yarn

Claims (8)

広幅織物のヒートカットによって得る織テープであって、このヒートカットによって両側縁に形成された繊維溶融部と、テープ側縁の近辺に沿って糸環部の縫い糸がテープ側縁を越えてテープ側縁に縫い付けられていくことで横方向に続く単環縫いとを有し、単環縫いを形成する1本の縫い糸がテープ側縁と交差しながら相互に密接することにより、該縫い糸で各側縁の繊維溶融部を被覆し、後処理の熱プレスによって平らにしてテープ全体をほぼ同じ厚みにする縁縫いテープ。A woven tape obtained by heat-cutting a wide woven fabric, the fiber melted part formed on both side edges by this heat-cut, and the sewing thread of the thread ring part along the vicinity of the tape side edge crosses the tape side edge to the tape side By having a single ring stitch that continues in the lateral direction by being sewn to the edge, each sewing thread that forms the single ring stitch is in close contact with each other while crossing the side edge of the tape. Edge stitched tape that covers the fiber melted part of the side edges and flattens it by post-processing hot press to make the entire tape approximately the same thickness . 広幅織物のヒートカットによって得る織テープであって、このヒートカットによって両側縁に形成された繊維溶融部と、テープ側縁の近辺に沿って糸環部の縫い糸がテープ側縁を越えてテープ側縁に縫い付けられていくことで横方向に続く単環縫いとを有し、単環縫いを形成する1本の縫い糸がテープ側縁と交差しながら相互に密接するとともに、両側縁における単環縫いの縫い糸の傾きがテープ平面から見てほぼ中心線対称である縁縫いテープ。 A woven tape obtained by heat-cutting a wide woven fabric, the fiber melted part formed on both side edges by this heat-cut, and the sewing thread of the thread ring part along the vicinity of the tape side edge crosses the tape side edge to the tape side It has a single ring stitch that continues in the lateral direction by being sewn to the edge, and one sewing thread forming the single ring stitch is in close contact with each other while crossing the side edge of the tape. substantially center line symmetrical der Ru hemmed tape slope of sewing suture to see from the tape plane. 請求項1または2記載のテープを横方向に寸断して得る縁縫いラベル。  An edge-sewn label obtained by cutting the tape according to claim 1 or 2 in a transverse direction. 収縮性糸を縫着時に折り曲げ個所となる部位に横糸として部分的に織り込み、織成後の収縮処理によって折り曲げ個所となる部位の両側縁をわずかに凹ませる請求項3記載のラベル。  4. The label according to claim 3, wherein the shrinkable yarn is partially woven as a weft thread into a portion to be bent at the time of sewing, and both side edges of the portion to be bent are slightly recessed by a shrinking process after weaving. 両側縁に繊維溶融部を有するテープ素材から縁縫いテープを製造する方法において、該テープ素材を長手方向に向けて立てて送り込み、水平作動のミシン針と前後揺動のルーパとを備えるミシンにおいて、一方のテープ側縁の近辺に沿って縫い糸を前後に送りながら横方向に続く単環縫いを形成する縁縫いテープ製造方法。  In a method of manufacturing a hem stitching tape from a tape material having fiber melted portions on both side edges, the tape material is fed upright in the longitudinal direction, and the sewing machine includes a horizontal operation sewing needle and a front and rear swing looper. An edge stitching tape manufacturing method for forming a single ring stitch that continues in a lateral direction while feeding a sewing thread back and forth along the vicinity of one tape side edge. 両側縁に繊維溶融部を有するテープ素材から縁縫いテープを製造する方法において、該テープ素材を長手方向に向けて立てて送り込み、水平作動のミシン針と前後揺動のルーパとを備えるミシンにおいて、一方のテープ側縁の近辺に沿って縫い糸を前後に送りながら横方向に続く単環縫いを形成し、次にテープ素材を長手方向において反転し、水平作動のミシン針と前後揺動のルーパとを備える反対送りのミシンにおいて、他方のテープ側縁の近辺に沿って縫い糸を前後に送りながら横方向に続く単環縫いを形成する縁縫いテープ製造方法。  In a method of manufacturing a hem stitching tape from a tape material having fiber melted portions on both side edges, the tape material is fed upright in the longitudinal direction, and the sewing machine includes a horizontal operation sewing needle and a front and rear swing looper. Form a single-ring stitch that continues in the lateral direction while feeding the sewing thread back and forth along the vicinity of one side edge of the tape, then reverse the tape material in the longitudinal direction, and a horizontal operation sewing needle and a forward and backward swing looper An edge-sewing tape manufacturing method for forming a single-ring stitch that continues in the transverse direction while feeding a sewing thread back and forth along the vicinity of the other tape side edge. ミシン針が押え金の先端部の下方を通過し、糸環部を引っかけたままのルーパが針尖端の前方位置まで下降する際に、該糸環部の縫い糸はテープ側縁と直接接触することなく、押え金の先端部の上面と直接接触することにより、糸環部の縫い糸は強い引張り力が生じる締め付け時にテープ側縁と直接接触せず、テープの硬軟および厚みなどに関係なく、常に一定した単環縫いを形成する請求項5または6記載の方法。  When the sewing needle passes below the tip of the presser foot and the looper with the thread ring hooked is lowered to the front position of the needle tip, the sewing thread of the thread ring must be in direct contact with the side edge of the tape. The sewing thread in the thread ring part does not come into direct contact with the side edge of the tape when tightening, which causes a strong tensile force, and is always constant regardless of the hardness and softness of the tape. The method according to claim 5 or 6, wherein a single ring stitch is formed. 送り込むテープ素材について、その上縁部を受け止める第1ガイドプレートと下縁部に接する第2ガイドプレートとで位置決めし、第1および第2ガイドプレートはそれぞれ上下方向に位置替え可能であり、第1ガイドプレートのU字部の内周面上方と第2ガイドプレートの水平部上面との垂直距離がテープ素材の横幅に相当する請求項5または6記載の方法。  The tape material to be fed is positioned by a first guide plate that receives the upper edge of the tape material and a second guide plate that contacts the lower edge, and the first and second guide plates can be displaced in the vertical direction, respectively. The method according to claim 5 or 6, wherein a vertical distance between the upper part of the inner peripheral surface of the U-shaped portion of the guide plate and the upper surface of the horizontal portion of the second guide plate corresponds to the lateral width of the tape material.
JP27274398A 1997-12-01 1998-09-28 Edge stitching tape and method for manufacturing edge stitching tape Expired - Lifetime JP3860668B2 (en)

Priority Applications (9)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP27274398A JP3860668B2 (en) 1998-09-28 1998-09-28 Edge stitching tape and method for manufacturing edge stitching tape
PT98122161T PT919651E (en) 1997-12-01 1998-11-25 TAPE TAPE AND METHOD FOR MAKING LATERAL STITCHES IN THE SAME
EP98122161A EP0919651B1 (en) 1997-12-01 1998-11-25 Woven tape and method for side-stitching the same
ES98122161T ES2191248T3 (en) 1997-12-01 1998-11-25 FABRIC TAPE AND METHOD FOR SEWING SIDE.
DE69812047T DE69812047T2 (en) 1997-12-01 1998-11-25 Woven tape and process for sewing the edge
TW087119635A TW418375B (en) 1997-12-01 1998-11-26 Edge sewing tape, edge sewing label, method of edge sewing and method of double-edge sewing
CNB981231098A CN1143251C (en) 1997-12-01 1998-12-01 Catch label tape, catch label and catching method
US09/203,279 US6119614A (en) 1997-12-01 1998-12-01 Woven tape and method for side-stitching the same
HK99105408A HK1020294A1 (en) 1997-12-01 1999-11-23 Woven tape and method for side-stitching the same

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP27274398A JP3860668B2 (en) 1998-09-28 1998-09-28 Edge stitching tape and method for manufacturing edge stitching tape

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JP2000096425A JP2000096425A (en) 2000-04-04
JP3860668B2 true JP3860668B2 (en) 2006-12-20

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101581716B1 (en) * 2015-06-10 2015-12-31 현장기 Feeding device for finishing edge of label

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP4597309B2 (en) * 2000-04-24 2010-12-15 日本ダム株式会社 Woven label and label processing method

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101581716B1 (en) * 2015-06-10 2015-12-31 현장기 Feeding device for finishing edge of label

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