JP3742387B2 - Hair coloring composition, method for coloring hair and hair coloring kit - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a hair coloring composition , a method for coloring hair and a hair coloring kit . In particular, it relates to a novel combination of developer and coupler components.

  Such compositions comprise various aromatic compounds, commonly known as developers (also known as precursors or primary intermediates), and various other compounds, usually known as couplers. These are referred to as oxidative hair colorants because they require oxidants for color formation.

  In our previous publications, PCT International Publication Nos. WO 98/52519, WO 98/52520, WO 98/52521, WO 98/52522 and WO 98/52523, a specific use of a defined type of oxidative hair colorant A hair coloring composition is described. In particular, in these publications it is essential that the coupler is selected from three groups (A), (B) and (C), which when coupled with a developer are cyan, yellow, respectively. And magenta. “Yellow” couplers (B) are 1,3-diketones containing the group —C (O) CHZC (O) —, where Z is an active leaving group. The composition is capable of undergoing oxidation and at least one developer selected from aminoaromatic systems that are capable of subsequent single electrophilic attack (single electrophilic attack developer). ) Is also essential. According to these publications, the selected coupler and the combination of this particular type of developer have the advantage that the reaction chemistry is strictly defined. This is because each developer molecule reacts only once with a single coupler molecule. Therefore, it is possible to accurately predict the compounds present in the hair at the end of the color formation reaction.

  GB 1,025,916 also describes the combination of a developer and this general type of coupler, but as such has the disadvantages overcome by the above mentioned international publications.

  To our knowledge, this type of 1,3-diketone coupler has only been described in combination with a single electrophilic attack developer.

The inventors have found that these compositions have significant advantages, but there is room for improvement. In particular, the generated color is bright and easily predictable, but under the influence of ultraviolet light (UV fading), it can be seen that it tends to cause greater fading than desired. Thus, when a consumer's hair is colored, there is a noticeable fading in color over several weeks when exposed to a significant amount of UV.
It is desirable to improve the UV fading resistance of compositions containing 1,3-diketone couplers.

In the present invention we provide a hair coloring composition comprising a developer that is para-phenylenediamine and a coupler selected from the group consisting of dimethylacetoacetamide, diethylacetoacetamide and mixtures thereof.

  The present invention also provides a hair coloring kit comprising a separately packaged defined developer and a defined coupler.

  The present invention also provides a method for coloring hair comprising applying a defined developer and a defined coupler to the hair.

  The inventors have surprisingly selected a developer that is not a single electrophilic attack developer, which is essential in conventional international publications and GB1,025,916, of the resulting color. It has been found that the UV fading resistance is significantly improved.

  As a result, the present invention also provides the use of a defined developer to improve the UV fading resistance of a composition comprising the defined developer.

  As will be seen below, it is not clear why this advantage occurs, but it is nonetheless a demonstrable advantage.

In the present invention, the developer is para-phenylenediamine that can be oxidized by an oxidizing agent . Oxidation has been developer can receive electrophilic attack on at least two other molecules.

In the present invention, coupler, dimethyl acetoacetamide, diethyl acetoacetamide, or mixtures thereof.

The amount of coupler is often 0.05-4% by weight, for example 0.05-3% by weight, but in some cases up to 5 or 6% by weight . For example, it may be 0.2 to 3% by weight, for example 0.2 to 2% by weight, based on the composition.

The developer is often included in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to 7% by weight, for example 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the total composition applied to the hair. A preferred amount of the developer is 0.3 to 4% by weight , for example 0.3 to 2% by weight , preferably 0.4 to 3 % by weight , for example 0.4 to 1.5% by weight .
Preferably, the composition is substantially free of a developer that is capable of undergoing oxidation and subsequently subject to only a single electrophilic attack.

  For both developers and couplers, solubility can be important. The developer and coupler compound itself should have solubility such that they can be formulated at appropriate concentrations. Preferably, the PH has a solubility of at least 5 g / 100 ml of deionized water at about 10 and 25 ° C.

  The composition may contain any other suitable optional ingredient. Standard oxidative couplers and coloring components may be included as well as other couplers of the type disclosed in PCT International Publication No. WO 98/92522 and the above PCT publication.

  An optional component of the composition is an antioxidant. For example, selected from sulfites such as sodium sulfite, hydroquinone, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, thioglycolic acid, sodium dithionate, erythrobinic acid and other mercaptans, ascorbic acid and n-propyl gallic acid Also good.

  When used, the antioxidant is included in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight, usually not exceeding 3 or 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition applied to the hair.

  In order for the developer and coupler to be effective in forming the color, the presence of an oxidizing agent is required. This oxidizing agent is usually included in the composition just before it is applied to the hair. Typically, the compositions of the present invention are supplied in at least two individual packages (eg, bottles), the oxidizer is contained in one package, and the developer and coupler in another package. .

A preferred oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. This is often used in amounts up to 10% by weight, based on the composition applied to the hair. Other oxidizing agents that may be used include other inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents, preformed organic peroxoacid oxidizing agents and other organic peroxides (eg urea peroxide, melamine peroxide), and any of these A mixture is mentioned.
Suitable oxidizing agents are preferably water soluble, ie have a solubility of at least about 5 g in 1,000 ml of deionized water at 25 ° C. (“Chemistry”, CE Mortimer, No. 2). 5th edition, p.277).

  Usually, the colored composition of the present invention has a pH above 7, especially a pH above 8 or 9. A pH of 9-12 is often suitable. The system of the present invention can also be incorporated into a low pH (eg, pH 1-6) hair coloring system.

In practice, the composition of the first aspect of the invention may be supplied to the consumer as a single package containing the developer and coupler in a single unit such as a bottle.
It is also possible to supply the composition so that the developer is individually packaged and the coupler is individually packaged. The coupler may be supplied as a preformed mixture selected to give a particular color. Alternatively, it can be supplied separately so that the consumer mixes to give a variety of different hair colors.

  In all cases, the essential ingredients are mixed to form the composition of the present invention prior to application to the hair.

  Generally, the oxidant is packaged individually, independent of any coloring component. To form the ingredients of the hair coloring composition, it is often mixed with these before applying to the hair. Alternatively, it can be applied separately to the hair either before or after the hair coloring composition.

  Developers, couplers and oxidants, and any other substance that is applied to the hair as a component of the composition of the present invention may be provided in any suitable physical form. A preferred physical form is a liquid. The liquid may be of low viscosity, for example diluted with water or may have a higher viscosity. The substance may be suspended in the gel network. The gel may be solid or low viscosity.

  Substances for coloring the hair have a cream-like consistency that is convenient to apply to the hair once they are mixed to form the composition of the invention for application to the hair Are often formulated to form. The final composition applied to the hair is often in the form of an emulsion.

  Each individual substance may be supplied in a form such that the composition containing it has a pH of greater than or less than 7. For example, pH 1-11 may be sufficient. In order to aid the dissolution of various components in the water-based carrier, in particular the developer and coupler, the carrier may have a pH above 6.1 or 6.5, or even a pH above 7, such as pH 8 or 9. You may have up to pH 10 or 11. The pH as supplied at 1-6 can help improve the stability of the ingredients.

  When the substance is mixed for application to the hair, the pH of the final product is less than 7, even if one of the ingredients used to form the final product has a pH greater than 7. May be provided. For example, an alcohol such as ethanol in an amount of 5-10 or 25% may be included to aid solubility in the developer, and particularly in the water-based carrier of the coupler.

Suitable optional ingredients include other oxidative and non-oxidative colorants, buffers, hair swelling agents, catalysts for oxidants, thickeners, diluents, enzymes, surfactants (especially anions) Ionic, nonionic amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants), proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-soluble or soluble preservatives; dye removers; H ₂ O ₂ stabilizers; humectants; solvents; Agents; low temperature region modifiers; viscosity modifiers; hair conditioning agents; enzyme stabilizers; TiO ₂ and TiO ₂ coated mica; fragrances and fragrance stabilizers; chelating agents. Other optional substances include anti-dandruff active substances such as ZPT. Details of suitable optional components can be found in PCT International Publication No. WO 98/52522.

  The invention is illustrated by the following examples. In these examples, various standard tests are used as follows.

(I. Evaluation of initial color and color change (measurement of ΔE))
The device used to measure the initial color and color change of a substrate (hair / skin) dyed with the coloring composition of the present invention is a Hunter Colorquest spectrophotometer. The value used to represent the degree of color change for a particular substrate is Delta E (ΔE). ΔE as defined herein is
ΔE = (ΔL ² + Δa ² + Δb ² ) ^1/2
Where L is the lightness and darkness measurement (color intensity), where L = 100 is equivalent to white and L = 0 is equivalent to black. Furthermore, “a” is a measure of the red and green index (tone) that positive numbers are equal to red and negative numbers are equal to green, and “b” is positive numbers that are equal to yellow and negative. Is the measured value (tone) of the yellow and blue indices, which is equal to blue.

The Hunter Color Quest measurement is a full-scan spectrocolorimeter with a wavelength of 400-700 nanometers that records the color of the test hairpiece (hair bundle) for "L", "a" and "b" values. It can also be done with a Hunter Love Scan colorimeter. The machine is set up as follows: Mode-0/45; Port size-1 inch (2.5 cm); Aperture size-1 inch (2.5 cm); Light-D65; / No filter. Place the hair in a sample holder designed to hold the hair in a uniform orientation during the measurement. An equivalent colorimeter can be used, but it must be ensured that the hair does not move during the measurement. The hair must be spread over a 1 inch (2.5 cm) port during color measurement. Make a spot on the piece holder and use it as a guide for positioning the holder at the port. This point is aligned with the port mark, and reading is performed at each point.
8 measurements per piece (4 times for each side) are made and 3 pieces are run per process.

(II. Standard hairpiece)
The composition according to the invention can be used for coloring hair of all colors, types and conditions. For purposes of illustration, various test hair pieces can be tested herein. Two of these standard hairpieces can be measured for approximate values of L, a, b.

ヤク毛髪（未処理又はパーマされ、及び／又はブリーチされた）もまた使用することができる。以下の値を有する：Ｌ＝約８２〜８３、ａ＝約−０．５〜０．７、ｂ＝約１１〜１２。

Yak hair (untreated or permed and / or bleached) can also be used. It has the following values: L = about 82-83, a = about -0.5-0.7, b = about 11-12.

(III. Hairpiece coloring method)
To color the hair, a 4 gram piece of hair about 8 inches (20 cm) long (or a 2 gram piece of 4 inches (10 cm) long hair) is hung on a suitable container. A test color product is then prepared (ie, if appropriate, mixing the separate bottle ingredients together) and about 2 grams of product per gram of hair is applied directly to the test hairpiece. Massage the colorant into the hair piece for up to about 1 minute and then leave it on the hair piece for up to about 30 minutes. After rinsing with running water for about 1-2 minutes, the colored hairpiece is washed (according to shampoo protocol IV below) and dried. Drying can be carried out either naturally (without the aid of heat) or using a dryer. The color (initial color) of the colored, washed and dried test hairpiece can then be evaluated using a Hunter ColorQuest spectrophotometer.

(IV. Hairpiece washing method)
A colored hair test piece 4 grams, 8 inches (20 cm) (test piece 2 grams, 4 inches (10 cm)) is fixed on a suitable container and warm water (approximately 1.5 gallons / minute [5.7 L). Rinse thoroughly for about 10 seconds using a pressure of about 100 ° F [38 ° C]. Shampoo (about 0.1 ml of non-conditioning shampoo per gram of hair) can then be applied directly to the wet test piece using a syringe. After lathering the hair for about 30 seconds, rinse the hair with running water for about 30 seconds. The shampoo and whipping process is then repeated with a final rinse of 60 seconds. Excess water can be removed (squeezed) from the test piece using the fingers. The test pieces are then dried either naturally or using a dryer box preheated at about 140 ° F. (60 ° C.) (about 30 minutes).

(V. Perm procedure)
The following method is usually used to perm the hair to be subsequently decolorized.

  A hair piece 4g with a hair length of about 8 inches (20 cm) is suspended on a suitable container. Apply to the hair so that the perm solution supplied under the trade name "Zotos" saturates it completely. The hair piece is then saturated again. The hairpiece is then placed in a plastic tray for 20 minutes and subsequently rinsed with 37 ° C. tap water for 11/2 to 2 minutes. Dry hairpiece with squeezer and towel. The hair pieces are then again suspended in the container and applied so that the commercially available “Zotos” neutralizer saturates them. The hairpiece is then placed on a plastic tray for 5 minutes, followed by a 11/2 to 2 minute rinse with tap water at 37 ° C. The hair piece is then shampooed twice and dried.

Example 1
The hairpiece was colored using the coupler and developer system specified below, washed and dried. The sample was then exposed in a Xenotester for 21 hours. E = 44 W / m ² (equivalent to 7 days of European sunlight) @ 300-400 nm, relative humidity 65%, 40-50 ° C., rotation mode. Lab measurements were recorded before and after exposure for calculated ΔE fading.

  The formulation used included a specific developer combining yellow coupler N, N-dimethylacetoacetamide, ascorbic acid, EDTA, sodium sulfate, ammonium acetate, ammonium hydroxide, hydrogen peroxide, water and an emulsion base. The formulation was applied to the hairpiece unwrapped at 30 ° C. for 30 minutes.

  The results are shown in Table 2 below.

このデータは、ＰＰＤが黄色カップラーとの組み合わせにおいて、顕色剤としてのジクロロパラアミノフェノールに対して、消費者に顕著なＵＶ退色利益を与えることを示している。

This data indicates that PPD provides consumers with a significant UV fading benefit over dichloroparaaminophenol as a developer in combination with a yellow coupler.

Claims (3)

A hair coloring composition comprising a developer that is para-phenylenediamine and a coupler selected from the group consisting of dimethylacetoacetamide, diethylacetoacetamide, and mixtures thereof. A method for coloring hair comprising applying to the hair a developer that is para-phenylenediamine and a coupler selected from the group consisting of dimethylacetoacetamide, diethylacetoacetamide, and mixtures thereof . A hair coloring kit,
(A) below (i) para - and the developer phenylenediamine,
(Ii) dimethyl acetoacetamide, and couplers which are selected from the group consisting of diethyl acetoacetamide, and mixtures thereof,
Individually packaged coloring component, <br/> as well (b) hair coloring kit comprising an individually packaged oxidizing component comprising.