JP3427309B2 - Automatic sewing method and automatic sewing machine used for the implementation - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an automatic sewing method applied to placket stitching performed to sew a placket cloth to a body in the construction of a placket portion such as a polo shirt and a knit shirt, and this method. The present invention relates to an automatic sewing machine used for carrying out.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art The fly part which occupies the center of the front part of various shirts is an important part in terms of function and design together with the collar part. Particularly, polo shirts and knit shirts that are formed through complicated processes are used. The placket is the part where the quality of sewn products is checked most strictly.

The method of constructing a placket such as a polo shirt and a knit shirt is roughly classified into two methods, ie, a carry-out method and a frame placket method. At present, the sewing process is relatively simple and the body part The take-out method has become the mainstream because part of it is a placket and there is no need for pattern matching.

FIG. 10 is an explanatory view of the procedure of constructing the fly part by the carry-out method. In this method, first,
As shown in (a), the placket cloth 1 and the body 2 which have been cut into a predetermined shape in advance have the former one edge 1a and the latter neckline edge 2a.
Stack so that they are aligned with. Next, as shown in FIG. 10 (b), these two are sewn together by stitches A and A which are substantially orthogonal to the overlapping edge and are substantially parallel to each other within a range that does not reach the other edge of the placket cloth 1, and both stitches A and A A notch B is formed by opening the overlapping edge side therebetween. Then, as shown in FIG. 10 (c), the halves 1b and 1c of the placket cloth 1 separated on both sides of the notch B are double-folded in the width direction.
As shown in FIG. 10 (d), these are folded back to the back side of the body 2, and one half portion 1c is further folded on the other half portion 1b side.

After that, the halves 1b and 1c overlapping each other are sewn to the body 2 at an extension from the tip of the notch B, and the edges of the halves 1b and 1c are properly trimmed. It is possible to configure the fly part by performing the predetermined finish sewing of.

[0006]

Now, in the construction of the placket portion as described above, the placket cloth 1 and the body 2 which are stacked on top of each other.
Conventionally, the following two methods have been adopted as a method of stitching and with a pair of stitches A and A and forming a notch B between them.

The first method uses a one-needle lockstitch sewing machine that forms a seam according to ISO standard 301, and the base end is emitted from the neckline edge 2a to advance a predetermined length in the longitudinal direction of the placket cloth 1,
After that, the sewing is performed by reversing and advancing in the opposite direction, and returning to the neckline edge 2a to obtain a pair of stitches A, A, and then cut between them to form the notch B from the side of the neckline edge 2a. Is the way. The second method is to use a sewing machine having two needles and a center knife between them, such as a bead sewing machine,
When a pair of stitches A and A are collectively formed by two needles, the notch B is also formed at the same time by the operation of the center knife in response to the needle movement.

However, in the first method, the formation of the stitches A and A and the formation of the notch B are performed in different steps, so that the productivity is lower than that in the second method, and further, When the sewing width between the seams A, A is narrow (about 5 mm), it is difficult to form the notch B by using scissors or a knife, and a defective product in which a part of the seams A, A is cut is generated. There was a risk of

On the other hand, in the second method, both seams A,
Since A is collectively formed by sewing from the same direction and the notch B is formed at the same time as this sewing, high productivity can be obtained, but it has the following drawbacks. Figure 11
[Fig. 6] is a plan view showing a manner of forming the stitches A, A and the notch B by the second method and a state in which the above-described folding is performed after that.

As described above, in the second method, since the seams A and A are formed by sewn in one direction with two needles, their ends have a predetermined width as shown in FIG. 11 (a). It is separated from each other and becomes independent from each other. Therefore, when the above-mentioned folding is performed after this, as shown in FIG. 11 (b), an opening corresponding to the separation width between the stitches A and A occurs at the end of the notch B, and the finish sewing is performed in this state. In this case, a bad-looking fly part having an opening at the bottom corresponding to the end of the cut B is obtained.

Such opening of the peg bottom is shown in FIG.
This is improved by performing bartacking stitching that connects the seams A and A obtained as shown in (a) in the vicinity of the end of the notch B. However, this bartacking stitch must be performed so as to properly fill the space between the stitches A and A. If proper bartacking stitching is not performed, dimple-shaped wrinkles are generated near the end of the notch B. In addition, the seams of the bartacking stitches appear on the bottom of the placket, resulting in deterioration of the finished quality.

That is, in the second method, there is an inconvenience that an unattractive product having an opening at the bottom of the placket is obtained, and when bartacking is performed to avoid this inconvenience, an extra step is required. In addition to the above, it requires a high degree of skill to carry out bartacking stitches that do not cause dimples, which leads to a significant decrease in productivity.

The above problems are not limited to the sewing of the placket, and it is required to form a notch between a pair of seams that are substantially parallel to each other, for example, when a slit is formed in the skirt of the skirt. The same occurs in other types of sewing, and there is a strong demand for the development of an automatic sewing method that can stably realize such sewing without deteriorating the finished quality.

The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and provides an automatic sewing method that stably realizes high-quality stitches that form seams that are substantially parallel to each other and a notch therebetween, and an automatic sewing method. An object of the present invention is to provide an automatic sewing machine used for carrying out the method.

[0015]

According to the automatic sewing method of the present invention, a cloth to be sewn is provided with a pair of stitches which are substantially parallel to each other with a predetermined starting point of sewing as a starting point, together with a cut passing between them. In the automatic sewing method to form,
The first sewing step that proceeds from the starting point of the sewing as a starting point to form one of the stitches and the step that continues in the width direction is performed continuously with this sewing step, and the direction is reversed in the middle. The second stitching step that returns by approximately the same length and the second stitching step that follows the first stitching step in succession to this stitching step and forms the other of the stitches before returning to the vicinity of the sewing start end And a third stitching step of forming a notch by cutting between the stitches in the first stitching step in synchronism with the movement of the needle during this time.

Further, the automatic sewing machine according to the present invention used for carrying out the above method holds a sewing machine having one needle as the stitch forming means and a cloth to be sewn, and the needle drop position of the sewing machine. Feeding means for performing reciprocating movement for feeding and discharging to and from the sewing machine and the feeding means, which operates before and after the conversion of the feeding means from forward movement to backward movement, And a cutting means that is provided in parallel with one side of a needle drop position of the sewing machine and that moves in a direction substantially perpendicular to the sewing machine and that responds to the movement of the sewing machine during the return movement of the feeding means to form the cut. And means.

[0017]

In the present invention, the seams formed in the first and third sewing steps and substantially parallel to each other are connected by the V-shaped seams formed in the second sewing step. Further, during the formation of the seam in the third sewing process, a cut is formed by cutting between the seam formed in the first sewing process and the seam formed in the first sewing process. As a result, substantially parallel seams obtained by the first and third sewing steps,
The cuts passing between them are stably obtained by a series of steps, and these stitches are connected by the V-shaped stitches obtained by the second stitching step, so that good finish quality is maintained. Be done.

Further, a single-needle sewing machine, a sewing means for holding the cloth to be sewn, and a reciprocating operation for feeding and discharging to and from the needle drop position, and a direction substantially orthogonal to the feeding direction. While performing the sewing operation of the sewing machine by an automatic sewing machine provided with a moving means for relatively moving the sewing machine and a cutting means arranged in parallel on one side of the needle drop position of the sewing machine,
First, the feeding means is caused to perform a forward movement of a predetermined length to execute the first sewing process, and then, during the operation of the moving means, the forward movement of the feeding means and the subsequent backward movement of substantially the same length are performed. Then, the second sewing process is executed, and finally, the returning movement of the feeding means and the cutting operation of the cutting means are performed at the same time to form a seam substantially parallel to the seam obtained in the first sewing step. The third sewing process for forming a notch between the two seams is performed.

[0019]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to the drawings showing the embodiments. FIG. 1 is a schematic plan view showing the overall configuration of an automatic sewing machine used for carrying out the automatic sewing method according to the present invention. As shown in the figure, this automatic sewing machine is provided with a sewing machine 3 as a sewing forming means and a feeding means 4 for feeding a cloth C to be sewn to a needle drop position of the sewing machine 3 on a common sewing table T. .

The sewing machine 3 has a bed portion extending below the arm portion 30 by a vertical movement of a needle 31 (see FIG. 5) suspended from the lower end of the arm portion 30. 32 is sewn on, for example, ISO standard 301
A single-needle lockstitch sewing machine that forms the seam can be used. The up-and-down movement of the needle 31 occurs in response to the rotation of a main shaft (not shown) built in the arm portion 30, and the rotation of the main shaft passes through a transmission belt 34 to a sewing machine pulley 33 projecting on the base end side of the arm portion 30. Is generated in response to the rotation of a sewing machine motor (not shown) that is transmitted.

Further, the feeding means 4 includes a drive section 40 formed on the sewing table T behind the sewing machine 3 and left and right sides arranged on the bed section 32 of the sewing machine 3 so as to sandwich both sides of the needle drop position. It is provided with a pair of moving plates 41, 42 and pressure plates 43, 44 separately arranged on these moving plates 41, 42. Moving plate 41,
42 and the pressure plates 43 and 44 are connected to the drive unit 40 via respective connecting rods, and by the transmission from the drive unit 40, the arm unit 30 and the bed unit 32 of the sewing machine 3 are orthogonal to each other. The reciprocating operation is performed along the upper surface of the sewing table T. The pressure plates 43 and 44 are moved up and down by the transmission from the drive unit 40, and are brought into contact with and separated from the moving plates 41 and 42 respectively.

The feeding means 4 constructed as described above holds the cloth C laid on the moving plates 41 and 42 between the pressing plates 43 and 44 which descend to the upper parts thereof, and synchronizes with each other. By the forward movement of the moving plates 41, 42 and the pressure plates 43, 44 that occur, the sewing machine 3 is moved to the needle drop position, and the backward movement is also sent out from the needle drop position. By this operation, sewing is performed in both directions in the gap between the moving plates 41 and 42.

In the sewing machine 3 having the above-mentioned structure, the upper surface of the bed portion 32 is aligned with the upper surface of the sewing table T, and the arm portion 30 and the bed portion 32 are supported on the sewing table T so as to be movable in the longitudinal direction. By the operation of the moving means 5 which is arranged below the sewing table T on the base end side of the bed 32, the longitudinal direction of the arm 30 and the bed 32, that is,
The feeding means 4 can be moved by a predetermined stroke in a direction substantially orthogonal to the reciprocating direction of the feeding means 4. Figure 2
It is a front view which shows one Example of the moving means 5.

As shown, the moving means 5 is a sewing table T.
A pair of upper and lower parts which are hung and supported on the lower side of the sewing machine 3 and which extend on the base plate 50 extending in the longitudinal direction of the arm part 30 and the bed part 32 of the sewing machine 3 and which rotate about pivot axes which are substantially orthogonal to the surface of the base plate 50 and are parallel to each other. The pulley (driving pulley 51 and driven pulley 52) and a swing arm 53 which is swingably supported on the surface of the substrate 50 and whose lower end is pivotally supported by the lower portion of one side of the substrate 50.

The lower drive pulley 51 is connected to an output end of a motor (not shown) fixedly provided on the back surface of the substrate 50, and rotates clockwise in the figure in accordance with the rotation of the motor. . Light-shielding plates 51a, 51b, 51c are attached on the surface of the drive pulley 51 in such a manner as to radially project to the outside. A photoelectric switch 54 is fixedly provided on one side of the substrate 50 so as to face the rotation circumference of the light shielding plates 51a, 51b, 51c, and the output of the photoelectric switch 54 is an optical path by the light shielding plates 51a, 51b, 51c. The rotational position of the drive pulley 51 can be detected by changing the value according to the interruption of the.

The driving pulley 51 as described above and the driven pulley 52 pivotally supported above the driving pulley 51 are connected via a timing belt 55 stretched between the driving pulley 51 and the driven pulley 52.
Is rotated around the axis according to the rotation of the drive pulley 51. A cam plate 57 is attached to the surface of the driven pulley 52 via a pair of setscrews 56, 56.

FIG. 3 is an exploded perspective view schematically showing the mounting state of the cam plate 57. As shown in this figure, the cam plate 57
A circular plate 57a having a diameter larger than that of the drive pulley 51 and coaxially penetrating the shaft center portion, and a long hole of an appropriate length extending on both sides along the diameter line of the circular hole 57a. 57b and 57c are provided. A pair of screw holes 52b and 52c are formed on the surface of the driven pulley 52, which is the mounting surface of the cam plate 57, at positions facing each other on an appropriate circumference centered on the shaft center. To install the set screw 56, which is inserted through the slot 57b, 57c,
56 are screwed and fixed into the screw holes 52b and 52c on the surface of the driven pulley 52, respectively. With the cam plate 57 thus mounted, the set screws 56, 56 can be loosened, and the guides can be used to properly shift the elongated holes 57b, 57c in the direction in which they are extended. It acts as a rotating eccentric cam.

The upper part of the swing arm 53 is provided on the upper side of the sewing table T so as to project, and a concave cutout portion 53a formed at the projecting end is part of the sewing machine 3, specifically, Bed section
It is engaged with an engagement protrusion 35 provided on the side surface of the base end portion of 32. FIG. 4 is an enlarged perspective view schematically showing an engaging portion between the swing arm 53 and the bed portion 32. As shown in the figure, the engaging projection 35 is a support plate that is erected on the base end side of the bed 32.
36 is provided so as to project substantially perpendicularly to the side surface, and a midway portion of the engaging projection 35 is inserted into a guide portion 37 that is provided upright on the upper surface of the sewing table T, and is restricted from moving in the vertical direction. . Also,
The notch 53a formed in the upper part of the swing arm 53 is engaged with the tip of the engagement projection 35 protruding from the guide 37, and the swing of the swing arm 53 is guided by the guide 37. By the action, the acting force within the plane of the sewing table T is transmitted to the bed portion 32 of the sewing machine 3.

On the other hand, the middle part of the swing arm 53 is pressed toward the driven pulley 52 side by the pressing cylinder 6 whose base end is fixed to the lower part of the sewing table T. Further, an auxiliary arm 60 is attached to the swing arm 53 so as to incline toward the driven pulley 52 side, and a pressing roller 61 pivotally supported on the upper end of the auxiliary arm 60 rolls on the outer periphery of the cam plate 57. I have contacted you.

The auxiliary arm 60 is attached to the swing arm 53.
The lower end is swingably connected to the vicinity of the pivotal support position, and the slightly upper part of the connected position is fastened and fixed to the swing arm 53 by a set screw 62. Set screw 62
The adjusting bolt 63 is attached to the upper part of the fixing position by the screwing part of the auxiliary arm 60 and the tip of the swinging arm 53 is brought into contact with the adjusting bolt 63. By screwing 63 in a loosened state, the tilt angle of the auxiliary arm 60 with respect to the swing arm 53 can be adjusted appropriately.

The moving means 5 configured as described above applies a force to the bed portion 32 of the sewing machine 3 by the swinging of the swinging arm 53 generated with respect to the substrate 50 fixed to the sewing table T, and the sewing machine 3 Is moved in a direction substantially orthogonal to the reciprocating direction of the feeding means 4. As described above, the swing arm 53 is pressed toward the driven pulley 52 by the pressing cylinder 6, and the pressing roller 61 pivotally supported on the upper end of the auxiliary arm 60 is pressed against the outer periphery of the cam plate 57. The cam plate 57 restrains the swing generated in the pressing direction. The cam plate 57 is an eccentric cam that eccentrically rotates according to the rotation of the driven pulley 52, and the swing arm 53 swings according to the rotation of the cam plate 57 accompanying the rotation of the driven pulley 52. The rocking causes the sewing machine 3 to reciprocate with a predetermined stroke for each rotation of the cam plate 57.

The moving stroke of the sewing machine 3 is the driven pulley.
It can be freely changed within the range of the eccentricity of the cam plate 57 set at the time of attachment to the 52, and the reference position during the moving stroke, for example, the position of the stroke end, can be adjusted by the adjustment bolt.
Fine adjustment can be freely performed within the range of the tilt angle of the auxiliary arm 60 set by the adjustment of 63. As shown in FIG. 4, the tip of the engaging projection 35 that engages with the tip of the swing arm 53 is fixed with a pointer 39 with its tip facing a scale plate 38 attached to the upper surface of the sewing table T. The movement stroke and the reference position may be adjusted according to the instruction of the pointer 39.

The cam plate 57 for moving the sewing machine 3 as described above
The rotation of the driven pulley 52 due to the transmission from the drive pulley 51.
According to the rotation of. The light-shielding plates 51a, 51b, 51c attached to the drive pulley 51 are for detecting the moving position of the sewing machine 3 via the rotational position of the drive pulley 51, and one of these (light-shielding plate 51a 2) is attached to a position where the optical path of the photoelectric switch 54 is cut off at the rotational position where the pressing roller 61 at the tip of the auxiliary arm 60 is in rolling contact with the maximum diameter portion of the cam plate 57, as shown in FIG. The shading plate 51b) is mounted at a position that opposes the shading plate 51a in the radial direction, that is, at a position that blocks the optical path of the photoelectric switch 54 at the rotation position where the pressing roller 61 makes rolling contact with the smallest diameter portion of the cam plate 57. Yes, the remaining one (light shield 51c)
In the rotation direction of the drive pulley 51 from the shading plate 51a to the shading plate 5a.
It is installed between 1b.

The drive pulley 51 is rotated halfway from the initial position where the optical path of the photoelectric switch 54 is blocked by the light blocking plate 51a to the rotational position where it is also blocked by the light blocking plate 51b by the rotation control of the drive motor. The sewing machine 3 is performed at a predetermined timing during the sewing operation, and after the sewing operation is completed, the remaining half rotation is performed to return to the initial position. In addition, the detection of light shielding by the light shielding plate 51c that occurs during the previous half rotation is used to convert the operation of the feeding means 4 interlocked with the sewing operation of the sewing machine 3 from the forward movement to the backward movement.

By the rotation of the drive pulley 51 as described above, the sewing machine 3 makes a stroke movement corresponding to the eccentricity of the cam plate 57 once during the sewing operation, and during this movement, the feeding means 4 Will change from forward to return,
As a result, the cloth C held by the feeding means 4 is first sewn in one direction from the predetermined sewing start end as a starting point by feeding the cloth C to the needle drop position, and then, the movement of the sewing machine 3 and the direction of the feeding means 4 are performed. By changing the stitching, the sewing direction is changed while changing the sewing position in the width direction, and by sending it from the needle drop position after that, it is almost parallel to the stitch at the time of feeding, and the stitch progressing in the opposite direction is finished. The sewing is performed to form the edges.

Further, in the automatic sewing machine according to the present invention, the feeding means 4 and the moving means 5 performing the above-mentioned operation are provided together with the feeding means 4
The cutting means 7 responds to the backward movement of the cloth C, that is, the sewing when the cloth C is fed, and cuts between the stitches obtained by the sewing accompanying the feeding. As shown in FIG. 1, the cutting means 7 is configured at the tip of the arm portion 30 of the sewing machine 3, and the interlocking rod 8 extending along the outer back portion of the arm portion 30.
Thus, it is connected to the sewing machine pulley 33 on the base end side of the arm portion 30.

5 and 6 are schematic front views showing the constituent parts of the cutting means 7 in an enlarged manner, FIG. 7 is a schematic side view of the same, and FIGS. Indicate the operating states, respectively. The cutting means 7 is formed on the substrate 70 facing the tip surface of the arm portion 30. The substrate 70 is shown in FIG.
As shown in FIG. 3, the sewing table T is erected on the upper side of the support leg 9 which is erected on the sewing table T at an appropriate distance from the rear side of the sewing machine 3.
Is supported via a support arm 90 that is substantially parallel to the upper surface of the and protrudes forward.

The base end of the support arm 90 is attached to the support leg 9 so as to be swingable about a substantially vertical axis, and this swing is made by operating a fixed lever 91 provided in the middle of the support arm 90. It can be fixed and released. As a result, the substrate 70 is constrained to the position described above by fixing the support arm 90, and can be moved together with the support arm 90 to an open position apart from the tip of the arm portion 30 by releasing the fixation of the support arm 90. The adjustment of the movable part described later can be easily performed.

As shown in FIG. 7, an operating rod 71 is attached to the front edge of the base plate 70 whose lower portion is inclined rearward so as to be vertically movable along this inclination, and the lower end of the operating rod 71 is attached to the operating rod 71. Is
A knife plate 72, which serves as the working end of the cutting means 7, is attached so that the position can be changed vertically and horizontally. A rectangular box-shaped actuation block 73 is integrally formed in the middle of the actuation rod 71, and the upper part of the actuation block 73 is located below an elevating cylinder 74 fixed to the upper part of the front edge of the substrate 70. It faces the output end that projects into the. Further, the operation block 73 is biased upward by a pulling spring 75 stretched between the lifting block 74 and a fixed position of the lifting cylinder 74.

The elevating cylinder 74 is an air cylinder that moves in response to air supplied from an air supply source (not shown) and presses the operating block 73 downward, and is a female plate attached to the lower end of the operating rod 71. 72 is a working block
It is pulled upward by the spring force of the pull-up spring 75 acting via 73, and is located at an appropriate distance above the bed 32 of the sewing machine 3 as shown in FIG. Along with the pushing down of the bed portion 32, the bed portion 32 is lowered to a position close to the upper surface of the bed portion 32 as shown in FIG.

The lowering of the knife plate 72 is performed while the sewing machine 3 is moved by the operation of the moving means 5, as will be described later. The descent position of the knife plate 72 is normally between the descent position of the needle 31 before and after the movement as shown in FIGS. 5 and 6 by adjusting the mounting position of the knife plate 72 on the operating rod 71. Are set to be substantially equal to each other, that is, to be substantially at the center of the needle drop positions before and after the movement.

On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 7, a transmission arm 76 is attached to the outer side surface of the substrate 70 so as to support the middle portion thereof to be swingable about a substantially horizontal axis. The transmission arm 76
One end portion of the crank pin 80 is fixed to the shaft end of the interlocking rod 8 on the rear side of the base plate 70, and the transmission arm 76 is connected to the crankpin 80 according to the rotation of the interlocking rod 8. According to the eccentric rotation of the, the rocking is performed at a high speed. Since the rotation of the interlocking rod 8 is interlocked with the operation of the sewing machine 3 due to the connection with the sewing machine pulley 33, the swing of the transmission arm 76 is always generated during the operation of the sewing machine 3.

The transmission arm 76 is urged toward the base plate 70 by a push spring 77 interposed in the supporting position, and an engaging cylinder 78 is attached to the supporting position. The engagement cylinder 78 is an air cylinder that moves in and out in response to air supply from an air supply source (not shown), and moves the transmission arm 76 in a direction opposite to the biasing direction of the pressing spring 77, that is, from the substrate 70. It pulls in the direction to separate it. That is, the transmission arm 76 swings in accordance with the rotation of the interlocking rod 8, moves away from the substrate 70 due to the withdrawal of the engagement cylinder 78 according to the air supply from the air supply source, and shuts off the air supply. Depending on the push spring
The operation of approaching the substrate 70 is performed by the bias of 77.

The other end of the transmission arm 76 faces the ascending / descending path of the operation block 73 on the front side of the substrate 70.
At this end, as shown in FIGS. 5 and 6, an operating block 73
An engaging pin 79 is provided so as to project toward the front end of the operating block 73, and the tip of the engaging pin 79 reaches the up-and-down path of the operation block 73 when the transmission arm 76 approaches. On the other hand, the operation block 73 is formed with a recess 73a capable of engaging with the engaging pin 79. The engagement of the two is such that the transmission arm 76 comes close to the substrate 70 as shown in FIG. Further, it occurs only when the knife plate 72 that moves up and down together with the operation block 73 is in the lowered position.

Air is supplied to the engagement cylinder 78 by an operation block.
In conjunction with air supply to the lifting cylinder 74, which is the lifting means for 73,
When the air supply to the former is cut off, the air is supplied to the latter. Therefore, the transmission arm 76 and the working block
The engagement with 73 surely occurs as the operating block 73 descends, and when this engagement occurs, the swing of the transmission arm 76 is transmitted to the operating block 73, and the female plate attached to the lower end of the operating rod 71. 72 moves up and down by a stroke corresponding to the swing stroke of the transmission arm 76, and the cloth C on the bed portion 32 is cut at one side of the sewing position by the needle 31 due to this stroke.

The operation of the cutting means 7 as described above occurs after the movement of the sewing machine 3 by the operation of the moving means 5, that is, during the sewing by the returning movement of the feeding means 4. This is realized by switching the air supply of the lifting cylinder 74 and the engagement cylinder 78 in accordance with the output change of the photoelectric switch 54 due to the light blocking of the light blocking plate 51b. Female plate 72
As described above, since the lowering position of is set to be substantially at the center of the needle drop position before and after the movement of the sewing machine 3 by the operation of the moving means 5, the cutting of the cloth C by the cutting means 7 is performed as follows.
It is performed between the seams formed before and after the movement.

As shown in FIG. 8, the placket sewing using the automatic sewing machine configured as described above uses the placket cloth 1 and the body 2 which are cut into a predetermined shape in advance, and the front edge 1a is The latter is piled up so as to be aligned with the neckline edge 2a, and these are mounted on the moving plates 41 and 42 opened by the lifting of the pressing plates 43 and 44, and the overlapping edges of both are placed on the needle drop position side of the sewing machine 3. , And after positioning the desired sewing position between the opposite edges of both plates 41, 42, the pressing plates 43, 44 are lowered by operating an operating means such as a foot pedal, and the placket cloth 1 and the body cloth are It is automatically carried out by causing the sewing machine 3, the feeding means 4, the moving means 5 and the cutting means 7 to perform a series of operations after being held together with the sewing machine.

FIG. 9 is an explanatory diagram showing the order of advance stitches by the automatic sewing method according to the present invention. When the sewing machine 3 starts the sewing operation, the ply cloth 1 and the body 2 held by the feeding means 4 are fed to the needle drop position by the forward movement of the feeding means 4 and are sewn. This sewing progresses starting from the overlapping edge of the placket cloth 1 and the garment body 2 which is the starting point of sewing, and the placket cloth 1 and the garment body 2 are substantially aligned with the overlapping edge as shown in FIG. 9 (a). It is sewn by one orthogonal seam A ₁ . This process is the first sewing process.

After the sewing has proceeded for a predetermined length, the moving means 5
Starts to work. In this operation, the drive pulley 51 is rotationally driven by a trigger that the number of hand movements of the sewing machine 3 reaches a predetermined number, and the drive pulley 51 is rotated a half turn (from the mounting position of the light shielding plate 51a to the mounting position of the light shielding plate 51b). By the rotation of the driven pulley 52 accompanying this rotation, the sewing machine 3 is orthogonal to the extending direction of the arm portion 30 and the bed portion 32, that is, the traveling direction of the sewing in the first sewing step. The cam plate 57 is moved in a direction corresponding to a width corresponding to the eccentric amount of the cam plate 57.

During this movement, the absolute position of the feeding means 4 does not change, but the operating direction of the feeding means 4 is such that
At the mounting position of the shading plate 51c between 1a and 51b, it is switched to the return side. As a result, sewing is carried out continuously with the movement in the width direction following the first sewing process, the direction is reversed in the middle of the sewing process, and the cloth is returned by substantially the same length, and the ply cloth held by the feeding means 4 is carried out. As shown in FIG. 9B, 1 and the body 2 are the first
The seam A ₁ obtained in the sewing process is sewn by the V-shaped seam A ₂ which is continuous with the end of the seam A ₁ . This process is the second sewing process.

After the operation of the moving means 5, that is, after the half rotation of the driving pulley 51 is completed, the sewing machine 3 maintains the position after the movement, and the sewing progresses as the feeding means 4 moves backward. the placket fabric 1 and the body fabric 2, seams a ₃ forming continuous to the end of the seam a ₂ obtained in the second sewing step, substantially parallel to the seam a ₁ obtained in the first sewing step
By this, sewing is performed up to the overlapping edge of both ends, which is the end of sewing.

[0052] Also since performs an operation of cutting means 7 described above in accordance with the end of the operation of the moving means 5, the stitch A ₃ sewing the same time by, the seams A ₃ and seams A obtained in the first sewing step The approximately central part between ₁ and is cut,
As shown in FIG. 9C, a notch B is formed between the seams A ₁ and A ₃ which are substantially parallel to each other and which reach the overlapping edge of the placket cloth 1 and the body 2. This process is the third sewing process.

Thereafter, as shown in FIGS. 10 (c) and 10 (d),
The placket part is constructed by folding back both sides of the notch B and then finishing sewing the predetermined position.
According to the method of the present invention, since the seams A ₁ and A _{3 which} are the folding lines at the time of folding back are connected by the V-shaped seam A _2, there is no possibility that the end of the notch B is opened after folding back. A stable fly part can be constructed. Further, in the method of the present invention, the stitches A ₁ , A ₂ and A ₃ can be continuously formed by a series of sewing steps, and the notch B is simultaneously formed during this step, so that the notch B is formed. There is no need for labor.

Although the sewing machine 3 is moved by the operation of the moving means 5 in this embodiment, the feeding means 4 may be moved relative to the sewing machine 3. That is, the moving means 5 includes the sewing machine 3 and the feeding means 4
Any one may be used as long as it has a function of moving one or both of them relative to the other, and is not limited to the configuration shown in this embodiment.

Further, in this embodiment, the movement of the sewing machine 3 due to the operation of the moving means 5 occurs in a direction away from the feeding means 4, and as a result, the seam A ₁ formed by the first sewing process is performed. Has a seam A ₃ formed by the third sewing process on the left side as viewed from the feeding side, and a seam A ₁ on the right side and a seam A ₃ on the left side may be formed respectively. This can be easily realized by causing the relative movement between the sewing machine 3 and the feeding means 4 by the operation of the moving means 5 to occur in the direction opposite to the direction shown in the embodiment.

Further, in the present embodiment, the moving means 5 is constituted by a mechanical cam mechanism, but a moving means for directly moving the sewing machine 3 or the feeding means 4 by a motor electrically controlled in rotation is used. Alternatively, a series of sewing operations may be performed by performing program control together with the feeding means 4 and the cutting means 7 according to a preset procedure.

[0057]

As described above in detail, in the automatic sewing method according to the present invention, the cloth to be sewn has the predetermined sewing start end by the continuous execution of the first, second and third sewing steps. The two seams are sewn together by two seams which are substantially parallel to each other and which originate from the base end, and a V-shaped seam which connects these ends, and by the cutting performed in the third sewing step, the two seams are sewn. Since the notches are formed at the same time, for example, ply shirts such as polo shirts and knit shirts can be stably sewn without deterioration in quality.

Further, the automatic sewing machine according to the present invention holds the sewing machine as the sewing forming means and the cloth to be sewn from above and below under the pressure, and reciprocates the sewing machine to and from the needle drop position. Feeding means, a moving means for relatively moving both of them in a direction substantially orthogonal to the feeding direction, and a cutting means arranged in parallel on one side of the needle drop position of the sewing machine and operating according to the backward movement of the feeding means. With the configuration including the above, while the sewing machine is being operated, first, the feeding means is caused to perform the forward movement to execute the first sewing process, and then the movement direction of the feeding means is changed while operating the moving means. Then, the second sewing process is executed, and finally, the returning movement of the feeding means and the cutting operation of the cutting means are performed at the same time to execute the third sewing step, and the automatic sewing method according to the present invention. Can be realized with high efficiency The present invention exhibits the excellent effect.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic plan view showing an overall configuration of an automatic sewing machine used for carrying out an automatic sewing method according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic front view showing a configuration example of moving means.

FIG. 3 is an exploded perspective view showing a mounting state of a cam plate.

FIG. 4 is an enlarged perspective view of an engaging portion between a moving unit and a sewing machine.

FIG. 5 is a schematic front view of the cutting means in a non-acting state.

FIG. 6 is a schematic front view of the cutting means in an operating state.

FIG. 7 is a schematic side view showing a configuration of cutting means.

FIG. 8 is an explanatory view of a state in which the ply cloth and the body are set on the feeding means.

FIG. 9 is an explanatory view showing the order of progress of plait stitching according to the method of the present invention.

FIG. 10 is an explanatory diagram of a configuration procedure of the fly portion.

FIG. 11 is an explanatory diagram of a problem of pliers sewing by a conventional method.

[Explanation of symbols]

1 Flying cloth 2 body 3 sewing machine 4 sending means 5 means of transportation 6 Press cylinder 7 Cutting means 8 interlocking rod 30 Arm 31 needles 32 beds 51 drive pulley 52 Driven pulley 53 Swing arm 57 Cam plate 60 auxiliary arm 61 pressure roller 71 operating rod 72 female plate 73 Working block 74 Lifting cylinder 76 transmission arm 78 Engagement cylinder 79 Engagement pin A seam B cut T sewing table

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (56) Reference JP 62-79092 (JP, A) JP 6-246078 (JP, A) JP 2-82998 (JP, A) Actual development Sho 61- 137383 (JP, U) Patent 3276891 (JP, B2) US Patent 1497220 (US, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D05B 1/00-97/12

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. An automatic sewing method in which a pair of stitches that are substantially parallel to each other are formed on a cloth to be sewn with a predetermined sewing start point as a starting point together with a notch that passes between these stitches. The first stitching step for forming one of the stitches and the stitching step including the movement in the width direction continuously, and the direction is reversed in the middle to return by substantially the same length. The second stitching step and, in succession to this stitching step, proceed in the opposite direction to the first stitching step to form the other of the stitches before returning to the vicinity of the stitching start end, and the needle movement therebetween. 1st in sync with
And a third sewing step of cutting the seam in the sewing step to form the cut. 2. An automatic sewing machine used for carrying out the automatic sewing method according to claim 1, wherein the sewing machine has a single-needle sewing machine as a stitch forming means and a cloth to be sewn, and holds the sewing machine. A feed means that makes a reciprocating motion for feeding and delivering to a needle drop position, and operates before and after the conversion of the feed means from a forward movement to a backward movement, and one or both of the sewing machine and the feeding means is reciprocated. A moving means for relatively moving in a direction substantially orthogonal to the operation direction and a side of the needle drop position of the sewing machine are arranged in parallel, and respond to the needle movement of the sewing machine during the return movement of the feeding means to make the cut. An automatic sewing machine comprising a cutting means for forming.