JP3089809B2 - Woven fabric and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a woven fabric having good texture, feel, and bulkiness, excellent in wet fastness, and suppressing the occurrence of whitening due to abrasion, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, it has been proposed that a fabric having a soft texture and a good feel can be obtained by using a peelable conjugate fiber comprising a polyester component and a polyamide component. For example, as shown in JP-B-53-35633, a soft texture can be obtained by fibrillating a fabric using a peelable conjugate fiber composed of polyester and polyamide with an aqueous benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol emulsion. , Tokiko Sho 62-
As disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 47981, there is known a method of obtaining a good feel and feel by fibrillating a fabric using a peelable conjugate fiber composed of polyester and polyamide with caustic soda.

Further, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-17953, by subjecting a peelable conjugate fiber to a fluid turbulence treatment in advance, a ring or slack of polyester fiber is formed on the surface of the woven fabric, thereby producing a spun like fiber. A method for obtaining a good appearance and texture has also been proposed.

[0004]

A fabric obtained by using a peelable conjugate fiber composed of a polyester component and a polyamide component has a soft texture and a good feel, but the polyester and polyamide have different dyeing properties. In addition, since it was necessary to dye both of them, the dyeing fastness of the dyed cloth was inferior.

[0005] For example, when a stripping treatment is carried out with an aqueous solution of caustic soda, the woven surface has a form in which polyester fibers and polyamide fibers are mixed. there were.

[0006] Further, when the release treatment is carried out with an aqueous benzyl alcohol emulsified solution, the surface of the woven fabric is almost covered with polyester fibers, so that a uniform dyed cloth can be obtained only by dyeing the polyester fibers with a disperse dye. But,
Since polyamide fibers are present in the outer layer, these polyamide fibers easily appear on the surface due to abrasion, causing a problem of whitening.

[0007] When the peeling treatment is carried out by a conventionally known method, the polyamide fiber is present on the surface of the woven fabric or the outer layer portion. Was dyed with a disperse dye, and the polyamide fiber was dyed with an acid dye.

However, by dyeing with an acid dye,
In many cases, the wet fastness is extremely deteriorated, and there has been a restriction on the development to applications requiring high wet fastness.

Also, the method of forming a ring or sag of polyester fibers on the surface of a woven fabric by subjecting a peelable conjugate fiber to a fluid turbulent flow treatment in advance has a very small percentage of the polyester fibers forming the ring or sag. Since it was limited, it had the same problem as above.

An object of the present invention is to provide a dyed woven fabric which has excellent wet fastness, suppresses the occurrence of a whitening phenomenon due to abrasion, has a good feel and feel, and a method for producing the same.

[0011]

The woven fabric of the present invention has the following structure to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, in a woven fabric in which a weft and / or a warp yarn is a mixed filament yarn composed of a polyester filament having a single fiber fineness of 0.5 denier or less and a polyamide filament having a single fiber fineness of 1.0 denier or less, the polyamide filament is made of nylon 6
Or 70-95% of nylon 66 component and melting point 18
A number M of polyester filaments and a number N of polyamide filaments present in the outer layer of the fabric, a number X of polyester filaments and a number Y of polyamide filaments present in the inner layer of the fabric, which are copolyamides at 5 ° C. or higher.
Fabrics but which satisfy the relationship of N / M ≦ (Y / X ) × 0.3
Wherein the polyamide filament is substantially an acid dye
It is a woven fabric characterized in that it is not dyed .

The manufacturing method of the present invention has one of the following structures. That is, a peelable conjugate fiber comprising a copolyamide component phase containing 70 to 95% of a polyester component phase and nylon 6 or nylon 66 component and having a melting point of 185 ° C. or more, each component phase of the peelable conjugate fiber The one that forms the outer peripheral part or the phase of one component is almost completely surrounded by the phase of the other component is woven as a weft and / or a warp, and after a dry heat treatment at 140 to 220 ° C., A method for producing a woven fabric, wherein the interface between the polyester component phase and the copolyamide component phase of the conjugate fiber is peeled off and further treated in an alkaline aqueous solution at 120 to 140 ° C. (hereinafter, a first method);
Alternatively, a mixed yarn comprising a polyester filament having a single fiber fineness of 0.5 denier or less and a copolyamide filament containing 70 to 95% of a nylon 6 or nylon 66 component having a single fiber fineness of 1.0 denier or less and having a melting point of 185 ° C. or more. Weaving the strip as weft and / or warp,
This is a method for producing a woven fabric (hereinafter referred to as a second method), which comprises performing a dry heat treatment at 40 to 220 ° C. and then treating in an alkaline aqueous solution at 120 to 140 ° C.

Hereinafter, the contents of the present invention will be described in detail. ◎
In the woven fabric of the present invention, the “outer layer portion” refers to a portion extending from both surfaces of the woven fabric to 内部 of the thickness in the thickness direction, and the sum of the thicknesses of the outer layer portions on both surfaces is the whole. Occupies half of the thickness. The “inner layer portion” refers to a portion other than the above “outer layer portion”.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the single fiber fineness is 0.1.
A polyester filament having a denier of 5 denier or less and a copolyamide filament having a single fiber fineness of 1.0 denier or less (hereinafter, polyamide filament) are included. In particular, from the viewpoint of imparting bulkiness, the monofilament fineness of the polyester filament is 0.05 to 0.5 denier, and the viewpoint of increasing the shrinkage stress at the time of alkaline hot water bath treatment to easily and selectively dispose the polyester filament in the inner layer portion of the fabric. Therefore, it is preferable that the single filament fineness of the polyamide filament be 0.4 to 1.0 denier. When the polyester filament and the polyamide filament are ultrafine fibers as described above, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having a good feel and a soft texture. If the single fiber fineness of the polyester filament is larger than 0.5 denier, a good feel cannot be obtained,
If the single fiber fineness of the polyamide filament is greater than 1.0 denier, a soft texture cannot be obtained.

The polyamide filament contains 70 to 95% of nylon 6 or nylon 66 and has a melting point of 18%.
It is composed of a copolyamide at 5 ° C. or higher. With polyamide filaments other than the copolymerized polyamide, large shrinkage cannot be exhibited even by the method described later, and a woven fabric having the structure of the present invention cannot be obtained. Commonly used nylon 6 or nylon 66
Are unsuitable in the present invention.

As the polyamide component of the conjugate fiber used in the first method of the present invention, from the same viewpoint as described above,
Nylon 6 or Nylon 66 as the main component and 70 to
A copolymer polyamide containing 95% and having a melting point of 185 ° C. or more is used.

As the copolymerized polyamide, for example, a copolymerized polyamide which mainly comprises nylon 6 and copolymerizes 5 to 20% of one or more copolymerized components such as nylon 66, nylon 6I, nylon 610 and nylon 12: nylon 6
6, nylon 6, nylon 6I, nylon 61
0, one or more copolymer components such as nylon 12,
A copolymerized polyamide obtained by copolymerizing 0% is exemplified.
Among them, a copolymer polyamide composed of nylon 6 and nylon 66 is preferred from the viewpoint of productivity during polymerization and spinning properties during melt spinning.

Further, the copolymerized polyamide is dyed,
It has a melting point of 185 ° C. or more in order to perform high-order processing such as heat setting together with the polyester component with good workability. In particular, it is preferable to have a melting point of 190 ° C. or higher. This melting point is determined by taking a second run thermograph using a differential scanning calorimeter DSC-4 manufactured by PERKIN-ELMER under a nitrogen stream at a rate of temperature increase of 10 ° C./min. Means the temperature of the endothermic peak when the

The value of the melting point can be set in a desired range by optimizing the copolymer composition. Moreover, the degree of polymerization may be a 2.5 to 3.2 degree with sulfuric acid relative viscosity eta _r.

The above-mentioned copolymerized polyamide may be used by blending additives within a range not impairing its basic properties. The copolymerized polyamide may be a polymer having a desired composition obtained by chip blending or melt blending two or more kinds of polymers (for example, nylon 6 polymer and nylon 6/66 copolymer).

As the polyester component, a normal polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate may be used, and the degree of polymerization is about the usual level as a fiber for clothing, for example, 0.6 or less in the intrinsic viscosity of orthochlorophenol.
It may be about 0.7. Additives may be blended as long as the basic physical properties are not impaired, and a third component such as isophthalic acid may be copolymerized.

It is preferable that the difference in melt viscosity between the polyester polymer and the copolymerized polyamide polymer is small because the shape stability during spinning of the conjugate fiber is good. For example, the difference in melt viscosity at the melt spinning temperature is about 500 poise or less. It is preferable that

The conjugate fiber used in the first method of the present invention is
The above-mentioned polyamide and polyester are separately melted, composite-spun in the usual method of compounding and spinning in a composite spinneret, cooled, lubricated, then temporarily wound as an undrawn yarn, and then drawn. You can do it,
It is preferable to produce the undrawn yarn cooled and refueled by a direct spin drawing method in which the undrawn yarn is drawn, subsequently drawn, and wound.

As the direct spinning / drawing method, for example, high speed direct spinning / drawing described in JP-B-63-53292 is used. Regarding the conjugate fiber obtained by this high-speed direct spinning drawing method, despite the fact that the optimum values of the drawing conditions such as the draw ratio and the drawing temperature are different from each other, the obtained conjugate fiber has a fineness unevenness. It can be a small fiber. Furthermore, since the separation and division of the composite component in the step before the release treatment are unlikely to occur, the yarn formability and the knitting and weaving properties can be improved.

In addition, when the composite spinning of polyamide and polyester is carried out, it is preferable to control the temperature of the spinneret surface to an appropriate temperature according to the polymer composition and combination, so that the spinnability at the time of high-speed take-off is good. It is preferable to make For example,
When ordinary polyethylene terephthalate is used as the polyester, the temperature is preferably about 280 to 295 ° C.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the number M of the polyester filaments present in the outer layer and the number N of the polyamide filaments, and the number X of the polyester filaments present in the inner layer and the number Y of the polyamide filaments satisfy N / N. M
.Ltoreq. (Y / X) .times.0.3, in other words, the outer layer is mostly occupied by polyester filaments, and the inner layer has polyamide filaments sinking into the inner layer. By satisfying this condition, dyeing can be performed substantially without using an acid dye.

That is, the fabric according to the present invention, which is substantially dyed only with a disperse dye, has a uniformly dyed surface, and hardly causes whitening due to abrasion. Since substantially only a disperse dye is used as the dye, the wet fastness is remarkably improved as compared with a conventional case where a polyester filament is dyed with a disperse dye and a polyamide filament is dyed with an acid dye. From this viewpoint, it is preferable that N / M is smaller, since the whitening phenomenon due to abrasion is less likely to occur, and preferably N / M ≦ (Y / X) × 0.1,
More preferred is a structure in which no polyamide filament is present in the outer layer, that is, the case where N / M = 0. N
In the case of /M>(Y/X)×0.3, in the fabric dyed with the disperse dye, polyamide filaments easily appear on the surface due to abrasion, which is a problem as a whitening phenomenon.

Here, the phrase "substantially not dyed with an acid dye" means that the polyamide filament is not dyed with an acid dye at all, or is dyed with an acid dye of 1.0% owf or less. Is also included. The smaller the dyeing amount of the acid dye on the polyamide filament, the better the wet fastness is, and it is particularly preferable that the polyamide filament is not dyed at all with the acid dye. % Owf or less, further 0.5% o
It is preferably set to be not more than wf.

The polyamide filament according to the present invention comprises:
Since the fibers are ultrafine fibers having a density of 1.0 denier or less, contamination by a disperse dye is likely to occur. Particularly, when a disperse dye and an acid dye are used in combination, it is difficult to completely prevent the contamination by the disperse dye, Toughness tends to be poor.

In the present invention, the number M of polyester filaments present in the outer layer, the number N of polyamide filaments present in the outer layer, the number X of polyester filaments present in the inner layer, and the number Y of polyamide filaments present in the inner layer Means the number obtained as follows.

First, when the cross-sectional shapes of the polyester filament and the polyamide filament are different and can be identified by observing them under a microscope, the values are determined as follows. ◎ Cut the woven fabric using a razor blade or the like so that the cross section of the composite fiber is cut vertically. Next, a photograph of the cross section of the fabric is taken using a scanning electron microscope (for example, S-2100A scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.). Based on the obtained photograph of the cross section of the fabric (for example, FIG. 8), contour lines a and b of the surface of the fabric are drawn as shown in FIG. For the contour line a, a straight line 1 is drawn substantially at the center. This l represents the surface of the fabric. Next, straight lines c and d are arbitrarily drawn perpendicular to l.
Let e be the distance between c and d. Assuming that the area of the portion surrounded by a, b, c, and d is A, the thickness f of the woven fabric is obtained by f = A / e. A straight line separated by a distance f from 1 is a line 1 'representing the back surface of the fabric. A straight line m, m 'is drawn in parallel with l, l' where f / 4 is entered from l, l '.
m and m 'correspond to the interface between the outer layer and the inner layer in the present invention.

The part surrounded by a, m, c, d and b,
The portion surrounded by m ', c, and d is the outer layer portion, and the number M of polyester filaments and the number N of polyamide filaments present in this portion are counted. The inner layer is m,
This is a portion surrounded by m ', c, and d, and the number X of polyester filaments and the number Y of polyamide filaments present in this portion are counted. However, when the sum of M, N, X, and Y is less than 300, the same operation is repeated for another cross section until the sum is 300 or more.
Find X and Y.

When it is difficult to identify the polyester filaments and the polyamide filaments because they have the same or similar cross-sectional shapes, they are determined as follows.

If the sample is unstained, the sample is first treated with the disperse dye Dianix Navy Blue ER-FS 3
% Owf and dyeing under pressure at 120 ° C. in an acidic region of pH 6 and then reducing and washing in water at 80 ° C. using caustic soda, hydrosulfite, and a nonionic surfactant,
Dry at 120 ° C.

First, in the same manner as in the above-described method, a photograph of the cross section of the woven fabric is taken, a subtotal P of the number of polyester filaments and polyamide filaments present in the outer layer, and the number of polyester filaments and polyamide filaments present in the inner layer. Subtotal Q of

If the sum of P and Q is less than 300, the same operation is repeated for another section until the sum becomes 300 or more.

Next, the sample is immersed in a formic acid aqueous solution at a concentration of 88 wt% at 20 ° C. to completely elute and remove the polyamide component, washed with water and dried. A sample of the sample after the polyamide component was eluted was photographed at the same magnification as in the above-mentioned method at the same magnification, and the distance e between c and d in FIG. The number X of the polyester filaments existing in is determined. Here, the number of repetitions of the work is the same as when P and Q were obtained.

The number N of polyamide filaments in the outer layer is determined by N = PM, and the number Y of polyamide filaments in the inner layer is determined by Y = QX.

The fineness of a single fiber contained in the woven fabric of the present invention is 0.5
As a method of obtaining a polyester filament of denier or less and a polyamide filament of single fiber fineness of 1.0 denier or less, a method of peeling a composite fiber composed of a polyester component and a polyamide component, a method of blending each multifilament, and simultaneously spinning A method of obtaining a multifilament composed of a polyester filament and a polyamide filament can be mentioned, but a method of peeling a conjugate fiber is preferable because the woven fabric of the present invention can be industrially easily and stably obtained.

When the composite fiber is peeled, the structure of the composite fiber is such that the polyamide component phase and the polyester component phase each form the outer layer portion of the composite fiber in the cross section of the yarn, or the phase of one component is the other component. The structure is almost completely surrounded by the phases. Specifically, a side-by-side type as shown in FIG. 1, a side-by-side repetition type as shown in FIG. 2, a side-by-side repetition type having a hollow portion as shown in FIG. 3, and one component which exists continuously as shown in FIGS. A type in which the other component is divided into a plurality by
As shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, there is a type in which a phase at least partially forming the outer peripheral portion of the composite yarn and a phase almost completely surrounded by the other component are mixed.

Here, "almost completely surrounded" means that
This means that the two component phases are arranged so that the phase of the polyester component and the phase of the polyamide component are completely separated by a release treatment performed later.

As the cross-sectional shape of the conjugate fiber, a cross-sectional shape in which the polyester component phase is divided into a plurality by the continuous polyamide component phase is particularly preferable for obtaining the woven fabric of the present invention.

The composite ratio of the polyamide component and the polyester component ensures that the shrinkage stress during treatment in a hot alkaline aqueous solution is kept at a certain level or more, and that the polyamide filament is easily sunk into the woven fabric, while the texture is rough and hard. From the viewpoint of preventing the occurrence of
It is preferably set to 0 to 70%. If the composite ratio is determined in this range in consideration of the properties such as tightness and texture required for the obtained textile product and the structure of the composite spinneret, the woven fabric of the present invention having desired properties can be obtained.

In the first method for obtaining the woven fabric of the present invention, the above-mentioned conjugate fiber is used for warp and / or weft and woven. Other fibers may be mixed with the conjugate fiber, and in that case, the mixed fiber is preferably a polyester fiber. In particular, polyester fibers having a single fiber fineness of 1.5 denier or less, preferably 1.0 denier or less are suitable.

The obtained woven fabric was first heated to 140 to 220 ° C.
And heat-setting the polyester component. The heat setting is usually performed under tension in the length and width directions of the fabric by a pin or clip method. The width of the fabric after the dry heat treatment is
From the viewpoint of making the heat setting effective and preventing the woven fabric from becoming paper-like, 95 to 11 before the treatment.
It is preferably set to 5%. Without this heat treatment,
Since the composite fiber or the polyester filament is greatly shrunk by a peeling treatment or a hot alkaline aqueous solution treatment to be performed later, a structure in which the polyester filament floats on the woven fabric surface cannot be obtained. Before desiccation heat treatment or after desiccation heat treatment, and before peeling treatment, ordinary desizing scouring treatment may be performed at 110 ° C. or lower.

The composite fibers contained in the fabric subjected to the dry heat treatment are separated into polyester filaments and polyamide filaments at 110 ° C. or lower. The peeling treatment may be carried out by physical kneading, by a dissolving agent (an alkali aqueous solution treatment for polyester, an acid aqueous treatment for polyamide), or by a swelling agent such as benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol emulsified aqueous solution alone or in combination. It is possible to apply.

Among them, the peeling treatment with an aqueous alkali solution is basically the same as the treatment generally used as a treatment for reducing the weight of a polyester fabric, and is excellent in certainty and stability of the peeling. preferable. As the alkali, for example, a hydroxide of an alkali metal such as caustic soda or a weak acid salt of an alkali metal such as sodium carbonate can be used. In addition, an alkali decomposition accelerator, for example, a quaternary ammonium salt such as lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, or a carrier (fiber swelling agent) such as chlorobenzene or alkylnaphthalene may be used in combination with the alkali. The temperature condition of the peeling treatment is set to 20 to 110 ° C. from the viewpoint that the treatment is performed in a short time, while the shrinkage difference between the two types of fibers is sufficiently secured by the alkaline aqueous solution treatment of 120 to 140 ° C. which is performed later. Is preferred. The weight loss rate of the polyester component may be such that the interface between the polyester component and the polyamide component is peeled off, and is sufficiently peeled off.
From the viewpoint of preventing a decrease in fiber tear strength, 0.05 to 30 w
t%, more preferably 0.1 to 5 wt%.

The method using physical kneading requires considerable physical external force, and the method using a swelling agent such as benzyl alcohol requires careful attention to the wastewater treatment of the chemicals used. It is not an industrial advantage.

When the release treatment is carried out with a swelling agent such as an aqueous benzyl alcohol emulsion, the polyamide component shrinks, so that a structure is formed in which the fabric surface is almost covered with polyester filaments.

However, the relative position between the polyamide filament and the polyester filament before the peeling is relatively maintained, and the polyamide filament is present in the outer layer of the woven fabric. Although the reason is not clear, it is presumed that the adhesion between the polyamide component and the polyester component of the conjugate fiber is surprisingly large, so that in the initial stage of the process of shrinking the polyamide component, the peeling has not sufficiently proceeded yet.

In any case, the woven fabric subjected to the peeling treatment still has many polyamide filaments in the outer layer portion of the woven fabric.

When the cross section of the woven fabric after the peeling treatment is magnified at an appropriate magnification with a microscope and observed, the discontinuous edge-shaped portion characteristic of the filament obtained by the peeling is observed. It can be confirmed from the fact that a filament having a cross section having the same is found, or even if the filament is not completely peeled off, it is easily and appropriately separated at a needle tip into a single fiber.

In the first method of the present invention, the woven fabric subjected to the peeling treatment is further treated in an alkaline aqueous solution at 120 to 140 ° C. so that most of the outer layer of the woven fabric is constituted by polyester filaments. Is what you do. Since the polyamide filaments used in the present invention show much greater shrinkage than the polyester filaments, the polyester filaments selectively emerge in the outer layer of the woven fabric by such treatment, and the woven fabric of the present invention can be obtained. When the temperature of the alkaline aqueous solution is 1
If the temperature is lower than 20 ° C., there is no significant difference in shrinkage between the polyester filament and the polyamide filament, so that the desired structure cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the temperature of the alkaline aqueous solution is higher than 140 ° C., the polyamide filament may be embrittled.

As the alkali in the alkaline aqueous solution, sodium carbonate, ammonia, caustic soda and the like can be used. However, in order to maintain the feeling of ground thickness and strength of the woven fabric, it is preferable that the polyester filament is not easily hydrolyzed. The preferred pH of the hot alkaline aqueous solution is 8-12. When the pH of the aqueous solution is 7 or less, the polyamide filament is not suitable because the polyamide filament does not shrink sufficiently and may be embrittled.

Further, in the second method of the present invention, in order to make most of the outer layer of the woven fabric composed of polyester filaments, immediately after the dry heat treatment at 140 to 220 ° C., without subjecting to a peeling treatment, a 120 ° C. The treatment is performed in an alkaline aqueous solution at a temperature of up to 140 ° C.

Although the specific polyamide filaments used in the present invention exhibit extremely large shrinkage in an alkaline aqueous solution at 120 to 140 ° C., they take advantage of the property that they are hardly embrittled. It is common to the first method and the second method that a large difference in shrinkage between the polyamide filament and the polyester filament is developed by performing an alkaline aqueous solution treatment at a temperature of 120 ° C. or higher, which is higher by 10 ° C. or higher than the peeling temperature, after the passing. It is an important point to do.

The fabric treated in the hot alkaline aqueous solution is
It can be dyed by a usual method using a disperse dye.

As the disperse dye, for example, Disper
sol (ICI Japan Co., Ltd.), Dia
ix (Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd.), Foron (Sand Co., Ltd.), Kayalon Polyester (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.), Miketon Polyester
(Mitsui Toatsu Dye Co., Ltd.), Samaron (Hoechst Japan Co., Ltd.), Palanil (BASF Japan Co., Ltd.), Sumikaron (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.), Terasil (Nippon Ciba Geigy Co., Ltd.)
And the like.

The dyeing temperature is preferably 115 to 130 ° C. from the viewpoints of dyeability and prevention of embrittlement of the polyamide filament. After dyeing, it is preferable to sufficiently perform reduction washing to remove unfixed dyes and dyes contaminating polyamide filaments.

The obtained dyed cloth is substantially made of only a disperse dye and has been subjected to reduction cleaning, so that it is compared with a conventional case where polyester filaments and polyamide filaments are dyed with a disperse dye and an acid dye. The wet fastness is much better. Further, since almost no polyamide filament is present in the outer layer, a whitening phenomenon due to abrasion hardly occurs.

The polyamide filament is most preferably not dyed with an acid dye, but may be dyed with an acid dye of 1% owf or less, preferably 0.5% owf or less based on the weight of the polyamide filament. If the dyeing rate of the acid dye is greater than 1% owf, the wet fastness deteriorates.

As the acid dye, for example, Aminyl,
Lanyl (Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.), Diacid (Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd.), Kayanol (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.),
Mitsui, Lanafast (Mitsui Toatsu Dye Co., Ltd.), Elionyl, Irgalan, Pola
r (Nihon Ciba Geigy Co., Ltd.), Nylosan (Sand Co., Ltd.), Telon (Bayer Japan Co., Ltd.) and the like. In terms of robustness, Irg
Alan, Lanafast, Lanyl and the like are preferable.

As a dyeing method for dyeing with two kinds of dyes, a disperse dye and an acid dye, a method in which a disperse dye and an acid dye are used in combination and dyeing and soaping in the same bath at about 115 to 130 ° C. After dyeing and reducing and washing at about 115 to 130 ° C, a method of dyeing and soaping with an acidic dye at 100 ° C or less is possible. In any case, after dyeing, it is preferable from the viewpoint of the fastness to perform a fix treatment using tannic acid, tartar or a synthetic fixative. In particular, when the disperse dye is used in an amount of 2% owf or more, the disperse dye is used in an amount of about
A method of dyeing at ~ 130 ° C, washing after reduction and dyeing with an acidic dye at 80 ° C or less and soaping is preferred from the viewpoint of wet fastness.

The dyeing rate of the polyamide filament is determined by the following method. ◎ A fixed amount (1.0 g) of the dyed fabric is weighed, and 30 ml of a 88% formic acid solution at 20 ° C.
The polyamide and the dye dyed therein were dissolved therein for 5 minutes, and the colorimeter (U-340, manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.) was used.
The absorbance at the maximum absorption wavelength is measured with a Spectro Photometer (0). Also, a predetermined amount (1.0 g) of the woven fabric before dyeing is weighed and placed in a 30 ml of a 20% formic acid 88% solution at a predetermined amount (0.5 mg, 1.0 mg, 2.0 m).
Dissolve the dye together with the dye of g), determine the absorbance with a colorimeter, and plot the relationship between the absorbance and the dyeing rate for this dye as a calibration curve. From this calibration curve, the value of the dyeing amount is determined from the absorbance value of the polyamide in the actual dyeing described above.

The structure of the woven fabric treated in the alkaline hot water bath hardly changes even after dyeing, so that a good texture and touch can be maintained. The drying after the hot water bath treatment or the dyeing is preferably performed under as low a tension as possible in order to maintain a good texture and feel.

After dyeing, the fabric of the present invention may be treated with a finishing agent such as a water repellent, a softener, a flame retardant, an antibacterial deodorant or the like. In particular, since the woven fabric of the present invention contains ultrafine fibers, good water repellency is likely to be obtained when a water repellent treatment is performed. Examples of the water-repellent agent include a fluorine-based water-repellent such as perfluoroalkyl acrylate and the like, and a silicon-based water-repellent is particularly preferable. The amount to be applied is suitably about 0.1 to 5 wt% in solid content based on the weight of the fabric.

[0067]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. ◎ (Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-4) ε-caprolactam,
Hexamethylene diammonium adipate (66 salt),
Hexamethylene diammonium isophthalate (6I
), And polymerized in a usual manner using one or more of the above-mentioned salts) to produce seven types of copolymerized polyamides or homopolyamides. The copolymerization ratio, sulfuric acid relative viscosity and melting point of the obtained polyamide were as shown in Table 1.

The obtained polyamide chips were dried by a conventional method and subjected to melt spinning with a chip water content of 0.05% by weight.

As the polyester, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) having an IV (intrinsic viscosity in orthochlorophenol solution) of 0.63 was used, and the chips were dried under reduced pressure at 160 ° C. for 6 hours by a conventional method, followed by melt spinning. Was served.

After the above polymers were separately melted at 290 ° C., the mixture was subjected to an ordinary split-type composite spinning apparatus via a gear pump, and the polyester component was radially split into eight by the polyamide component. A composite fiber having a polyester / polyamide composite ratio of / 30 was spun from a circular discharge hole. After spinning, after cooling, lubrication and entanglement treatment in the usual manner, 300
The film was drawn at 0 m / min, stretched 1.67 times with a 140 ° C. heat stretching roller, and wound up at a winding tension of 0.14 g / d.

The obtained composite fiber yarn (50 denier, 18
Filament) had the properties shown in Table 1.

[0072]

[Table 1] Using the obtained composite yarn as a warp yarn and a 75D-96fil polyester yarn as a weft yarn, a 2/1 design twill fabric having a warp density of 212 yarns / inch and a weft density of 110 yarns / inch was woven.

The obtained woven fabric is subjected to ordinary scouring with a nonionic surfactant and sodium carbonate in water at 90 ° C.
After drying at 120 ° C., a dry heat treatment was performed at 180 ° C., and then the composite yarn was peeled by treating in a 1 wt% aqueous solution of caustic soda at 80 ° C. for 40 minutes (the weight loss of the polyester component due to the peeling was 2.1 wt%). . Further, in a hot water bath of pH 11 containing 2 g / l of sodium carbonate at 125 ° C., 3
Treated for 0 minutes. Disperse dye D
ianix Navy Blue ER-FS3% ow
After dyeing under pressure at 120 ° C. in an acidic region of pH 6 using f, reduction washing was carried out in water at 80 ° C. containing caustic soda, hydrosulfite and a nonionic surfactant, and drying was performed at 120 ° C. The cross section of the obtained dyed cloth was photographed with an SEM, and the distribution of single fibers in the warp yarn was analyzed.

Further, in order to evaluate abrasion discoloration of the dyed cloth,
The dyed cloth was treated according to JIS L1096D method (the treatment time was 30 seconds), and the degree of whitening phenomenon was visually observed. The washing fastness of the dyed cloth was evaluated according to JIS L0844A method (A-2).

Table 2 (Examples 1 to 3) and Table 3
The results are shown in (Comparative Examples 1 to 4). ◎ Composite yarn No. Those using Nos. 1 to 3 have a cross-sectional structure in which polyester filaments are unevenly distributed in the outer layer portion of the fabric, and are discolored by abrasion (whitening phenomenon).
Was rarely seen. The texture of the fabric surface was also very good. Composite yarn No. Those using 4 to 7 are
The discoloration due to abrasion is large, and the texture of the woven fabric surface is also high. 1 to
No. 3 was inferior to that using No. 3.

[0076]

[Table 2]

[0077]

[Table 3] (Example 4) Example 2 except that the dry heat treatment was performed at 150 ° C.
The same treatment as described above was performed to produce a dyed cloth. The resulting woven fabric showed almost no discoloration due to abrasion and a good feel. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Example 5) The same treatment as in Example 2 was performed except that the conditions for the release treatment were a 2 wt% aqueous solution of caustic soda and 100 ° C for 40 minutes (the reduction rate of the polyester component due to the release treatment was 10.8 wt%). Was prepared. The resulting woven fabric showed almost no discoloration due to abrasion and a good feel. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Example 6) The woven fabric scoured in Example 2 was subjected to a peeling treatment with a benzyl alcohol emulsion instead of the peeling treatment with caustic soda. That is, the woven fabric subjected to the dry heat treatment was immersed in an emulsion of 15 wt% of benzyl alcohol and 1.5 wt% of Sun Mall (manufactured by Nika Chemicals Co., Ltd.), and peeled off at 60 ° C. for 20 minutes. After thoroughly washing the peeled fabric, 2 g of sodium carbonate /
The mixture was treated at 125 ° C. for 30 minutes in a hot water bath having a pH of 11 and then dispersed in Dianix Navy Blue.
Using ER-FS 3% owf, it was dyed under pressure at 120 ° C. in an acidic region of pH 6, reduced, washed and dried.

The resulting woven fabric showed almost no discoloration due to abrasion and a good feel. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Example 7) A dyed cloth was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the additive in the alkaline hot water bath was changed to 0.5 g / l of sodium carbonate (pH 9). The resulting woven fabric showed almost no discoloration due to abrasion and a good feel. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Example 8) A dyed cloth was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the additive in the alkaline hot water bath was changed to 0.12 g / l of ammonia water (pH 8). The resulting woven fabric showed almost no discoloration due to abrasion and a good feel. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Example 9) A dyed cloth was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the additive in the alkaline hot water bath was 0.15 g / l of caustic soda (pH 10). The resulting woven fabric showed almost no discoloration due to abrasion and a good feel. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Example 10) A dyed fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the temperature of the alkaline hot water bath was changed to 130 ° C. The resulting fabric shows almost no wear discoloration,
The touch was also good. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Example 11) To the dyed cloth obtained in Example 2, an acid dye Nylosan Blue N-GFL (manufactured by Sando Co., Ltd.) was used in an amount of 0.5% of the weight of polyamide fiber under an acidic region of pH 6. After dyeing at 80 ° C., fixation was performed at 80 ° C. in an acidic region of pH 6 using 3% owf of Sun Life TA-50K (manufactured by Nika Chemicals, Inc.). The woven fabric obtained by soaping, washing with hot water and drying showed almost no discoloration due to abrasion and relatively good discoloration in a washing fastness test. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Example 12) The polyamide chip used in Example 2 was dried by a conventional method, and the water content of the chip was adjusted to 0.05% by weight and spun from a circular discharge hole at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. 800m
/ Min, and then cold-stretched at a stretch ratio of 3.5.
A denier, 98 filament polyamide yarn was obtained.

On the other hand, the polyethylene terephthalate chips used in Example 2 were dried under reduced pressure at 160 ° C. for 6 hours by a conventional method, and spun out from a circular discharge hole at a spinning temperature of 285 ° C. Take off at 1500 m / min, then 85 ° C, magnification 2.
7 and heat treated at 120 ° C., 60 denier, 14
A 4-filament polyester yarn was obtained.

One polyamide yarn and two polyester yarns obtained as described above were made into a single yarn by using a blended yarn as a warp, and a 75 denier and 96 filament polyester yarn as a weft. Density 60 lines / inch, weft density 1
10 / inch twill fabric of 2/1 texture was woven.

A dyed cloth was prepared from the woven fabric obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the peeling treatment was omitted.

The dyed fabric finally obtained showed almost no discoloration due to abrasion and a good feel. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2. (Comparative Example 5) Except that the dry heat treatment was omitted, the same treatment as in Example 2 was performed to prepare a dyed cloth. The abrasion discoloration was large and the touch was inferior to that of the woven fabric obtained in Example 2. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 6) Example 2 except that the conditions for the release treatment were a 0.8 wt% aqueous solution of caustic soda and 120 ° C for 40 minutes (the rate of loss of the polyester component by the release treatment was 12.3 wt%).
The same treatment as described above was performed to produce a dyed cloth. The abrasion discoloration was large and the touch was inferior to that of the woven fabric obtained in Example 2. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 7) A dyed cloth was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the alkaline hot water bath treatment was omitted. The abrasion discoloration was large and the touch was inferior to that of the woven fabric obtained in Example 2. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 8) Except that the temperature of the alkaline hot water bath was changed to 115 ° C, the same treatment as in Example 2 was performed to prepare a dyed cloth. The abrasion discoloration was large and the touch was inferior to that of the woven fabric obtained in Example 2. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 9) A dyed cloth was produced in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the treatment was performed in a hot water bath (pH 7) at 125 ° C for 30 minutes instead of the alkaline hot water bath treatment. The abrasion discoloration was large and the touch was inferior to that of the woven fabric obtained in Example 2. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 10) 125 ° C instead of alkaline hot water bath treatment
The same treatment as in Example 2 was performed except that the solution was treated with a 1 g / l aqueous solution of acetic acid (pH 6) for 30 minutes to prepare a dyed cloth.
The abrasion discoloration was large and the touch was inferior to that of the woven fabric obtained in Example 2. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 11) After sufficiently removing the fabric subjected to the release treatment in Example 6, the disperse dye Dianix Navy Blue was used.
Using ER-FS 3% owf, a dyed cloth was prepared by dyeing under reduced pressure, washing under reduced pressure and drying at 120 ° C. in an acidic region of pH6. The abrasion discoloration was large, and the feel was inferior to that of the woven fabric obtained in Example 6. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 12) When treated in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the temperature of the alkaline hot water bath was changed to 145 ° C, the polyamide filaments were embrittled and dropped, and the feel was very poor. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 13) The dyed cloth obtained in Example 2 was further treated with an acid dye Nylosan Blue N-GFL (manufactured by Sando Co., Ltd.) at a ratio of 1.5 to the weight of the polyamide filament.
%, And after dyeing at 80 ° C. in an acidic region of pH 6, 3% ow of Sunlife TA-50K (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)
Using f, fixation was performed at 80 ° C. in an acidic region of pH 6. The fabric obtained by soaping, washing with hot water and drying had poor washing fastness. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3. (Comparative Example 14) 125 ° C instead of hot alkaline aqueous solution treatment
A dyed cloth was obtained in exactly the same manner as in Example 12, except that the solution was treated with a 1 g / l aqueous solution of acetic acid (pH 6) for 30 minutes.

The dyed cloth finally obtained had large abrasion discoloration and was inferior in touch to the woven cloth obtained in Example 12. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 3.

[0084]

Fabric of the present invention exhibits, in the polyester filament stand out in the outer layer, since it has a structure in which sank polyamide filaments in the inner layer portion, practically, substantially
A uniform dyed cloth can be obtained only by dyeing with a disperse dye without using an acid dye , and furthermore , it has excellent wet fastness and hardly causes whitening due to abrasion.

[0086] Since it has a bulky structure with a large gap between single fibers containing polyester ultrafine filaments and polyamide filaments, the feel is soft and the ground feel is large. In addition, it has a slimy feeling unique to polyamide filaments, and the surface of the fiber has a structure in which polyester ultrafine fibers are raised, so it is as if it has been raised, even though it has not been raised. Has a natural feel. Therefore, it is suitable for use in clothing such as coats, blousons, ski wear, windbreakers, winter clothing, down jackets, etc., and in built-in bedding applications such as bags, rugs, and cover areas.

Further, it is suitable for wiping off dirt and the like adhering to the surface of the spectacle lens, and shows good wiping performance. Since it has good water retention, it is also suitable as a wiping cloth for wiping water.

In the production method of the present invention, since the composite yarn is peeled off after weaving and a new structure is developed, the passability of the spinning, drawing and weaving steps is good. Also in the dry heat treatment step, the stripping treatment step, and the hot water bath treatment step according to the present invention, stable and efficient production can be achieved, and the utility is high.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a splittable composite yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a splittable composite yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a splittable composite yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a splittable composite yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a splittable composite yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a splittable composite yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 7 is a schematic view showing an example of a cross section of a splittable composite yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 8 is an electron micrograph of a cross section of the woven fabric according to the present invention, in which a 0.2 denier polyester filament obtained by peeling emerges in an outer layer, and a 0.8 denier polyamide filament sinks in an inner layer. You can see how the structure is flat.

9 is a diagram in which a contour of a cross section is copied from the cross-sectional photograph of FIG.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: One component 2: The other component

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on front page (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D03D 15/00

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A mixed yarn comprising a polyester filament having a single fiber fineness of 0.5 denier or less and a polyamide filament having a single fiber fineness of 1.0 denier or less is formed by weft yarn and / or
Or, in a woven fabric used as a warp, the polyamide filament contains 70 to 95% of nylon 6 or nylon 66 component.
A copolymerized polyamide having a melting point of 185 ° C. or more,
Number M of polyester filaments present in the outer layer of the fabric
The number of polyamide filaments N, the number Y of number X and a polyamide filament polyester filaments present in the fabric inner layer portion, a fabric which satisfies the relationship of N / M ≦ (Y / X ) × 0.3, polyamide Filament is real
A woven fabric characterized by being not dyed with an acidic dye . 2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester filament and the polyamide filament are obtained by peeling the composite yarn. 3. A release type composite fiber comprising a copolyamide component phase containing 70 to 95% of a polyester component phase and nylon 6 or nylon 66 component and having a melting point of 185 ° C. or more, wherein each component phase is formed of the release type composite fiber. What forms the outer periphery of the conjugate fiber or is one in which the phase of one component is almost completely surrounded by the phase of the other component is woven as weft and / or warp, and is subjected to dry heat treatment at 140 to 220 ° C.
The interface between the polyester component phase and the copolymerized polyamide component phase of the composite fiber is peeled at 10 ° C. or less, and
Treated in an aqueous alkaline solution at 0 ° C. and then substantially acidified
A method for producing a woven fabric, which comprises dyeing without using a dye . 4. A polyester filament having a denier of 0.5 denier or less and a copolyamide filament containing 70 to 95% of a nylon 6 or 66 component having a denier of 1.0 denier or less and having a melting point of 185 ° C. or more. Weaving the mixed yarn as weft and / or warp,
A method for producing a woven fabric, comprising performing a dry heat treatment at 140 to 220 ° C and then treating in an alkaline aqueous solution at 120 to 140 ° C.