JP2603810C - - Google Patents

Description

Description: FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to an anionic surfactant, a special amphoteric surfactant, and a conditioning agent for cleaning or care of hair and / or scalp. And a novel cosmetic composition with improved properties, based on an α-hydroxylated carboxylic acid or a derivative thereof. The invention also relates to the use of this cosmetic composition. 2. Description of the Related Art For hair washing and / or care, hair washing containing both (mixture) of an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. It is common for a composition (or shampoo) to be used. In fact, although these compositions have excellent detergency, the essential cosmetic properties are:
It is relatively low. Accordingly, it is used for particularly sensitive hair (ie, hair that has become damaged or brittle, especially under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and / or treatments such as permanent, dyeing or bleaching). For the purpose, it is known to add to these compositions complementary cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents, in particular polymers, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the cleaning compositions. ing. Conditioning agents are, for example, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, or silicones and / or silicone derivatives, which give the treated hair a significantly improved ease of unraveling and styling and a better Flexibility is obtained. However, imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactants are used, in particular, for the preparation of cleaning compositions based on anionic and amphoteric surfactants and conditioning agents, so that in dry hair, the above-mentioned amphoteric surfactants are used. Unfortunately, such cosmetic advantages cannot be obtained. That is, certain cosmetic effects are obtained which are considered undesirable, ie the hairstyle looks poor (lack of lightness of the hair), is not smooth (uneven from the root to the tip of the hair), and the gloss is low. Are inadequate. Furthermore, these disadvantages are associated with the application of the cleaning composition to sensitized hair; in addition, if the cleaning composition is used repeatedly, especially if the hair has been dyed with oxidative dyes, This results in a decrease in the mechanical strength of the hair. As a result, anionic surfactants, imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactants,
And recent cleaning compositions containing conditioning agents are not entirely satisfactory. Means for Solving the Problems and Action As a result of intensive studies on this point, the applicant has found that a sufficient amount of α-hydroxylated carboxylic acids or their derivatives can be converted to an anionic surfactant, imidazoline type It has been found that these disadvantages can be reduced or eliminated by adding them to conventional hair washing compositions based on amphoteric surfactants and conditioning agents. The problems generally associated with the use of such compositions are, in particular, that the hair becomes thin, lacks smoothness and luster and reduces the mechanical strength of the hair. Detergency and other superior cosmetic properties (flexibility, ease of tangling, slicing), but also have the above-mentioned problems. This finding is the basis of the present invention. Thus, according to the present invention, at least one cosmetically acceptable medium
Gloss, brightness, softness and smoothness are obtained in a hair cleaning composition of the type comprising one anionic surfactant, at least one imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactant and at least one conditioning agent. At least one carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl group in the α-position of at least 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, so that the mechanical strength is not compromised:
A composition is provided, further comprising an α-hydroxy acid, or a derivative thereof. [0008] Another subject of the present invention is a method for cleaning or caring for hair and / or scalp,
This is a cosmetic use of the composition. [0009] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the following description, but the invention is not limited to these examples. According to the present invention and in the field of the art (especially the 'Handbook of Surfactants', MR Porter, Blackies and Sun (Glasgow
And London), 1991, according to the 199-202 see page), the imidazoline type amphoteric surfactants of the general _{formula: RCONHCH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH} 2 OH, wherein, R is generally Represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group derived from a fatty acid, and is represented by the following formula (actually, a compound obtained by the reaction of a fatty acid with aminoethylaminoethanol): mono-alkyl- or alkenylamidoethylaminoethanol Or a variety of amphoteric surfactants that can be prepared by dicarboxylation, especially by chloroacetylation and / or chloropropionylation. The imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactant which is particularly targeted in the present invention is represented by the formula (I): Here, -R ¹ represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group such as a fatty acid group, -R ² represents a hydrogen atom or a group-(CH ₂ ) _m -COOY, -X and Y Represents a hydrogen atom or a monovalent cation, particularly a metal cation, particularly an alkali metal cation such as sodium, which may be the same or different; -n and m may be the same or different, and Compounds represented by the following formula: [0014] Amphoteric surfactants ranging in particular belong the formula (I) of the present invention, at least one, preferably, greater than 1 the following features: n and m are identical; R ² is a group - (CH ₂₎ shows the _m -COOY; X and Y are identical, preferably, a monovalent metal cation, in particular shows a sodium cation; R ¹ is generally C ₅ -C ₂₀ alkyl group, in particular Denotes a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ , C ₁₃ or C ₁₇ alkyl group, or a C ₁₇ unsaturated group, or an alkyl group of the acid R ¹ —COOH is a natural oil such as coconut oil, copra oil, linseed oil, Present in wheat germ oil or tallow. Examples of imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactants include, among others, those sold by Rhone Poulenc under the trade name MIRANOL, the following CFTA (CFTA, 4th edition, 1991) Years): disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, isostear Disodium loamphodiacetate, disodium isostearoamphomodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphomodipropionate, disodium oleoamphomodipropionate, disodium stearoamphodiacetate Thorium, sodium tallow Anho diacetate second and wheat germ Anho diacetate disodium, and the like. Here, with the use of a cleaning composition, which combines an anionic surfactant and a conditioner with an amphoteric surfactant of the imidazoline type, the general cosmetic (hair activity) mentioned at the beginning of the present application. The problem is exacerbated, especially when the imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactant is disodium cocoamphodiacetate or disodium cocoamphodipropionate according to the CTFA nomenclature. That has been found. The cleaning composition according to the invention can of course contain one or more amphoteric surfactants as described above. [0018] The nature of the anionic surfactant included in the cleaning composition according to the present invention is not critical. Accordingly, examples of the anionic surfactant that can be used alone or in combination in the present invention include, in particular, salts of the following compounds (especially alkali metal salts, particularly sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or Magnesium salts): alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amide ether sulphates; alkyl aryl polyether sulphates and monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkyl sulphates Alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, and paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates,
Alkyl = ether sulfosuccinates and alkyl = amide = sulfosuccinates; alkyl = sulfosuccinates; alkyl = sulfoacetates; alkyl = ether = phosphates; acyl = sarcosinates and N- Examples include salts of acyl taurates. The alkyl or acyl groups of these various compounds have 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Furthermore, usable anionic surfactants include fatty acid salts, for example, salts of acids of oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, copra oil or hydrogenated copra oil; Acyl = lactates having the following carbon number: Weaker anionic surfactants such as alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids and salts thereof, and also polyoxyalkylenated carboxyl ethers, especially having from 2 to 24 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof can be used. It is. The conditioning agents that can be used in the present invention can be selected from those known per se, as long as they enhance the cosmetic properties of the hair treated with the cleaning composition, and in particular, cationic polymers such as, for example, Patent applications EP-A-0,337,354 and French patent applications FR-A-2,270,846,2,383,660,2
598,611, 2,470,596, and 2,519,863; amphoteric polymers, for example, patent application EP-A-0,269,243.
U.S. Pat. No. 3,836,537, patent application EP-A-0,269,243, and the last two of the above-mentioned French patent applications; silicones and their derivatives, for example the patent application EP-A- 0,398,177 and patent application EP-A-
0,492,657; and, to a lesser extent, certain anionic polymers. Of course, it is also possible to mix and use conditioners. According to an essential feature of the hair cleaning compositions according to the invention, these compositions comprise at least one carboxylic acid which is hydroxylated at the α-position (this compound being what is called an α-hydroxy acid). And its derivatives. Acid derivatives include associated salts (eg, organic bases or alkali metal salts)
Or lactide (autoesterification of α-hydroxy acid molecule)
cation). The α-hydroxy acids obviously consist of mono- or polycarboxylic acids containing one or more hydroxyl functions, at least one of these hydroxyl functions being in the α-position of the acid (carboxyl group). (Carbon adjacent to a functional group). The acid may be present in the final cleaning composition in the form of the free acid and / or in the form of a complex salt (especially a salt with an organic base or an alkali metal, depending on the final pH of the composition). Or the corresponding lactide (obtained by auto-esterification of the molecule). The cleaning composition according to the invention can of course contain one or more α-hydroxy acids or their derivatives. Examples of such compounds include citric acid, lactic acid, methyl lactic acid, phenyl lactic acid, maleic acid, mandelic acid, glycolic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, gluconic acid, benzylic acid, and 2- Hydroxycaprylic acid. Other compounds of the α-hydroxy acid type suitable for the present invention are described in patent application EP-A
No. 0,413,528, the teachings of which are incorporated herein. [0024] Cosmetically compatible and acceptable acids for the hair, skin and / or scalp are preferably those to be selected. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the α-hydroxy acid used is selected from citric acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid. According to another important feature of the cleaning composition according to the invention, the α-hydroxy acids are
It is present at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight. An α-hydroxy acid content of between 2 and 10% by weight, preferably between 4 and 5% by weight, is generally very suitable. These concentrations are much higher than those found in conventional shampoos when certain acids are used alone to adjust pH. The cleaning formulation according to the invention generally comprises the following composition: (i) anionic surfactant: 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cleaning formulation,
Preferably 5 to 20% by weight; (ii) amphoteric surfactant: 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of anionic surfactant or surfactant present in the cleaning formulation.
(Iii) conditioning agent: 0.01 to 1 with respect to the total weight of the cleaning formulation;
(Iv) α-hydroxy acid: amount as described above. The vehicle or support for the cleaning composition according to the invention is preferably water or a water-alcoholic solution of a lower alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol. The cleaning composition according to the invention is generally between pH 2 and 8, preferably between pH 3 and 7. Adjusting the pH to the desired value is usually carried out by using a base (organic or inorganic) such as aqueous ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly) amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanol. This is performed by adding an amine or 1,3-propanediamine to the composition. Preferably, ammonia is used. The neutralization of α-hydroxy acids with bases is achieved by avoiding pH fluctuations.
It is advantageous to make it in the form of a buffer that can provide shampoo stability.
In addition, this neutralization generally causes the spontaneous thickening of the shampoo, which is often required for this type of application. The cleaning compositions according to the invention can of course also contain all customary adjuvants used in the field of shampoos, for example perfumes, preservatives, metal ion sealants, thickeners (especially PEG, PEG derivative), softener, foam regulator, dye,
It can contain brighteners, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, antisebum agents, sunscreens, vitamins and the like. The various forms used in the field of compositions can be provided in the form of liquids, creams or gels which are thicker or thinner and which become viscous or gelled.
These compositions are suitable for hair washing, hair care and / or hair beautification. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described by way of examples. EXAMPLES Three shampoos (A, B and C) according to the invention having the following composition were prepared and tested: Shampoo A:-sodium containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide = Lauryl = ether sulfate (anionic surfactant) 7.28 g-REWORDEM S133 from REO
0.8 g of disodium-ricinoleyl-monoethanolamide = sulfosuccinate (anionic surfactant) sold under the tradename Milanol (MIRA) sold by Rhone Poulenc.
NOL) sodium cocoamidoethyl- (N-), sold as C2M
Hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl) glycinate (imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactant) 3.8 g-Crosslinked and quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (conditioning agent) sold by Union Carbide under the trade name JR400 0 0.1 g-Copric acid = monoisopropanolamide (thickener) 1.5 g-EDTA 0.39 g-Preservative 0.31 g-Citric acid 5 g-Water Suitable amount to make 100 g as a whole The pH of this shampoo is ammonia water The pH was adjusted to 4.5 by adding. Shampoo B:-10 g of triethanolamine = lauryl = sulfate (anionic surfactant)-Disodium, sold under the trade name SETACIN F special paste from ZSCHIMMER SCHWARTZ Lauryl monosulfosuccinate (anionic surfactant) 0.8 g-Sodium cocoamidoethyl- (N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl) glycinate (imidazoline type amphoteric surfactant) 1.14 g-union carbide 0.2 g of cross-linked, quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (conditioning agent) sold under the trade name JR400 by the company, sold under the trade name GAFQUAT 755 by the ISP company. Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer quaternized with diethyl sulfate (conditioning agent) 0.2 g-EDTA 0.26 g-preservative 0.11 g-citric acid 5 g-water Appropriate amount The pH of this shampoo was adjusted to pH 5 by adding aqueous ammonia. Shampoo C: Monoethanolamine = lauryl ether = sulfate (anionic surfactant), containing 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, sold under the trade name SIPON LEM 235 by Henkel. 4g-Sodium = cocoamidoethyl- (N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl) glycinate (Imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactant) 1.14g-Crosslinked, sold under the trade name JR400 from Union Carbide, Quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (conditioning agent) 0.15 g-EDTA 0.5 g-Preservative 0.31 g-Citric acid 5 g-Water Suitable amount to make the total 100 g The pH of this shampoo is determined by adding aqueous ammonia By Te was adjusted to pH 5. The cosmetic performance of the shampoo was evaluated by a panel of experts using sensory analysis tests performed on sensitive human hair (in this case, permed hair) in vivo. The method is carried out as follows: a shampoo is applied to the wet hair, then emulsified and finally rinsed with water after a few minutes; after drying, the hair is tested by an expert. In a comparative composition for comparison, three comparative compositions, each identical to the above compositions, A, B and C, except for the lack of an α-hydroxy acid,
A ', B', and C 'were tested by the same method, and the pH of each composition was made the same as that of the corresponding inventive composition by hydrochloric acid. A panel of experts judged and concluded that the compositions according to the invention, A, B and C, had the following representative effects compared to the corresponding comparative composition. That is, gloss, lightness, softness, and smoothness of the dried hair can be obtained. Further, on the one hand, a hair that was repeatedly treated with a comparative shampoo several tens of times was subjected to a mechanical strength test, and on the other hand, the same test was performed on the shampoo according to the present invention. It was found that the target strength was not lost.

Claims (1)

Claims: 1. A cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactant and at least one conditioning agent. At least 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, in order to obtain gloss, lightness, softness and smoothness and to avoid loss of mechanical strength. ,
A composition further comprising at least one carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl group at the α-position: α-hydroxy acid, or a derivative thereof. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the α-hydroxy acid or a derivative thereof is at least 3% by weight. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the α-hydroxy acid or a derivative thereof is less than 10% by weight. 4. An anionic surfactant comprising from 5 to 50, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is present in an amount of from 5 to 20% by weight. 5. A method according to claim 1, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of 10 to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the anionic or surfactant. 5. The composition according to any one of the above items 4. 6. The conditioning agent, based on the total weight of the composition, is 0.01%.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is present in an amount of from about 10% to about 10% by weight. 7. An aqueous or water-alcoholic composition,
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pH is between 2 and 8. 9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the pH is between 3 and 7. 10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the α-hydroxy acid is present in the form of the free acid and / or in the form of one of its complex salts and / or in the form of the corresponding lactide. A composition according to claim 1. 11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the α-hydroxy acid is selected from citric acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid. 12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the conditioning agent is selected from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, silicones and silicone derivatives. 13. An amphoteric surfactant of the imidazoline type having the formula (I): Here, -R ¹ is such as a fatty acid group, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, -R ² is a hydrogen atom or a group - (CH ₂₎ shows the _m -COOY, -X and Y are the same Represents a hydrogen atom or a monovalent cation, particularly a metal cation, particularly an alkali metal cation such as sodium, wherein -n and m are the same or different and are integers of 1 or 2 13. A compound selected from the group consisting of:
A composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 14. n and m are the same; R ² is a group — (CH ₂ ) _m —COOY
X and Y are the same and represent a monovalent metal cation, especially sodium; R ¹ is a C ₅ -C ₂₀ alkyl group, especially a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ , C ₁₃ or C ₁₇ alkyl group, or shows a C ₁₇ unsaturated group or an acid R ¹ -COOH alkyl groups, is characterized coconut oil, copra oil, linseed oil, that are present in the natural oils of wheat germ oil, or the like tallow, A composition according to claim 13. 15. The composition according to claim 14, wherein the amphoteric surfactant of the imidazoline type is cocoamphodiacetate disodium or cocoamphodipropionate disodium according to CTFA nomenclature. 16. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for cleaning and / or caring for hair and / or scalp. 17. The hair according to claim 1, wherein the hair is sensitive.
Use according to 6.